Reddit mentions: The best bike drivetrain components

OK, so you've got a Shimano TX71 crank up front. That's pretty low-end, and I don't think the rings are replaceable, so if they're worn out you'll need a new crankset.

The rear set of gears is called a "cassette" (in your case, older bikes had freewheels). It's a 7 speed Sun Race 11-32.

The chain is chain...no big deal on that as long as it matches your cassette. 7 speed chain should be used with 7 speed cassettes. 8 speed chain is the exact same as 7. 7/8 are the same width, etc. 9 speed chain is narrower, weaker, and wears out faster, and it costs more than 7/8. 10 speed chain is again narrower, weaker, etc. And again for 11. Anything above 8 speeds is silly, especially on anything other than actual racing bikes. It's just more money and trouble, so please don't buy in to the marketing gimmick of 10/11 speed "upgrades", I promise you they won't actually make your ride better.

My opinion said, let's move on to replacing these worn out parts.

Let's start with the crank. You'll need some specialized tools to work on this, but they're not too expensive and a worthwhile investment. You'll need a square-taper crank puller, such as the Park CCP-22. That's needed to remove the cranks.

Next you'll need a tool to remove the bottom bracket (the bearings/spindle bit the cranks attach to. Yours is probably pretty worn out. The thing with BBs is they come in many lengths, such as 122mm, 118mm, etc. The length is determined by the crankset you use, not by your frame, so if you replace your crankset, chances are you'll need a different BB length. Also, many newer cranksets have built-in BBs, since, like I said, BB and cranks are pretty tied together. You'll need to get your old BB out, and you'll need a BB tool for that. Chances are your BB would be one compatible with the Shimano 20 tooth 'Isis' style: BBT-22. You can tell if this is the case by looking at your bike. Behind the crank you'll see a the outside edge of the bottom bracket, if it's got a bunch of small indentations like this, then it's an Isis style one.

Now you'll have the old crank and BB removed. Next you'll need to get a replacement. I'm not sure your budget, so I'll just go with some 'middle of the road' recommendations. This is what I have one some of my bikes: Race Face 22-32-44 Crankset and BB. This is a pretty good deal, since it's a fairly nice crankset AND it comes with its own BB, so you don't have to get that separate. The BB included is an outboard bearing style, which will be a bit different looking than your old one, and require another tool, as it's not compatible with the BBT-22. It requires an outboard bearing wrench like the BBT-29. Even after purchasing this extra tool, the Race Face crankset is an exceptional deal.

Alternatively, you can source out a square-taper style crankset replacement (like your old one), and if you luck out, your old BB will be in ok enough shape and be the right length. Chances are that's not the case, and you'll need to replace the BB too, and end up spending just as much as that RaceFace. The one minor issue with the Race Face one is it's slightly smaller than your stock one, and I don't know if your T30 is one of the ones with a cover over the chain, and if so, there may be a slight gap if you used a slightly smaller crank. If you don't have a chain cover, this wouldn't be an issue, and going from 48 to 44 would probably be an improvement, unless you often ride really really fast.

Next you'll need a rear cassette. Your stock cassette was an '11-32'. This means your smallest sprocket was 11 teeth and largest was 32. When combined with a 22/32/44 crankset, a cassette with 32t as the largest gear is a real 'stump puller'. The 22:32 ratio is probably MUCH lower than you'll ever use, unless you routinely climb mountains on your bike. I'd recommend something a bit 'tighter' such as 11-23 or 11-25. Unless you're REALLY fast and routinely in your largest gear in the front and smallest in the rear, going over 25MPH, I'd also suggest not getting a cassette with an 11t small gear. I'm pretty fit and very very rarely 'spin out' my fastest gear, which is 44:12 for me. 44:11 is a good bit faster a gear, but I'd guess you don't actually need that sort of gear. The choice is up to you, but I recommend these cassettes: 11-24 or 12-24 and 11-28 or 12-28. Dropping the range down from 11-32 to 12-24 means you'll shift your front gears a bit more often, and in return, you'll have a better spread of gearing options, with more usable gears and less duplicate gears. I highly doubt you use more than 44:12 and less than 22:24 ratios as it is, as those are pretty damn fast and pretty damn low gears.

You'll need a cassette tool to remove your old cassette and install the new one. FR-5 Cassette Tool, and you'll also need a chain whip: SR-1 Chain Whip.

As for the chain, any 7 or 8 speed chain will work. I recommend this one: KMC 72. Shimano chains are GARBAGE and wear out way faster than other brands. SRAM chains are ok. Wipperman are good and KMC is good.

All of these tools have videos on their use on Park's website, and are available on Amazon for reasonable prices. If you want to save a few bucks, there's some non-Park versions of said tools for cheaper. I have a Topeak brand chain whip, for instance, and it's every bit as good as Park's.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Hopefully this long post helps.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

Ok interesting. Considering your current high gear of 14 tooth and 7 speed configuration, you probably have a freewheel system on your rear wheel, as opposed to a cassette, two different ways of mounting the rear cogs. You probably won't be able to get an 11 tooth cog that some have suggested on your wheels as it is. There are 7-speed freewheels with a 13 tooth high cog, which could give you almost 8% more top end if you need it, though, and they aren't too expensive. Those freewheels need to be replaced every so often, maybe swap it in next time you replace the chain. Swapping out the front chainring is possibly an option, but it is more complicated because of a lot of factors, and possibly not really a practical option for you without replacing a lot of stuff. (RD Chain Wrap Capacticy, Chain Length, Crank BCD, FD Max capacity and position, ask your bike shop)

I think that if you are really enjoying the fun and utility of riding, you could be well served by eventually buying a nicer bike. You will gain a significant amount of speed from a bike that is a little lighter and more efficient with some better quality parts, and ultimately for less money than trying to upgrade a lot of things on yours. The current sweet spot imo for price to performance ratio for a general purpose bike is around the $650-$800 hybrid range, with 9x2 or 9x3 gearing and probably disc brakes. You can probably eventually pick one up used for 60% new price if you keep an eye on local classifieds.

Yes. Higher top gears for faster speeds. I definitely shift using the front too, but only once. It was set on the hardest gear, the front that is, and never changed again. For the riding I've been doing, on and off road, I've never needed to adjust the front. Anything less than the hardest gear, is not nearly hard enough to pedal.

 

Cassette vs freewheel. That was valuable information dude! That's the kind of shit I miss easily. Thank you! I'm going to attach an image of my existing cassette/freewheel and perhaps you can tell exactly what it is. I watched a few videos, and all of them require disassembly to tell what kind it is. Both types look very similar.. at least to me they do. Images: https://imgur.com/a/gy81ho7

 

I'm seeing a bunch of tires for sale, but some of them are "foldable" and others aren't. Does that simple mean it isn't a slick? Or I can fold it for packing?

 

I purchased my bike from a couple of scumbags who own a store in Montreal. They definitely took advantage of the fact that I didn't know much about bikes. Ugh.

 

What do you think of this: https://www.probikekit.ca/bicycle-tyres/vittoria-peyote-folding-mtb-tyre/11436100.html It is the best deal I can find right now, half price. Or this: https://www.sportchek.ca/categories/shop-by-sport/cycling/bike-parts/bike-tires-tubes/product/schwalbe-nobby-nic-275-foldable-tire-332007671.html#332007671=332007683 If I look hard enough, seems like I can find a tire under $40CAD, which isn't bad. Just not sure about the quality. I'm not a hardcore biking, but during season, I do bike almost every single day. So..

 

Based on this: https://www.cycosports.be/en/product/thv047036/ I currently have a 7 gear freewheel, which is pretty much what I'm stuck with because of the existing gear shifting system, right? Which I guess kind of makes life easier having less options.

 

When looking at freewheels, is the "teeth" the "gear ratio"? Or are they different? Is this something I need to pay attention to, or will any 7 speed work? Like this, it has a 14-28 teeth: https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-MF-TZ21-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541251634&sr=8-1&keywords=7+speed+freewheel But my existing one has a 13-34 ratio.. what does that mean?

 

As for the inner tube.. do I just get something that matches the tire? Will the specs be as easy as 27.5x2.10? Like this: https://www.canadabicycleparts.com/evo-enduro-1-35-1-45mm-tube-10704

Interesting challenge. If I had to narrow it down to one ride at that price, it’s going to come down to both how it’s set up at purchase, and how potentially upgradeable it is.

That being said, after a bit of shopping, this is my pick, at the moment:
Schwinn Volare 1400 Road Bike, 700c/28 inch wheel size, red, Fitness Bicycle, 53cm/Medium Frame Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5XTB94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CMtXCbVDDFV54

It’s “near” the setup you’d likely eventually want. 2x up front, pretty standard 100/130 spacing for the wheels, brifter-style levers, 1 1/8 threadless forks, comes with “decent for the price” Tourney stuff for both derailleurs and the brake/shifter levers, quick releases. It’s also pretty light, at I think 25 pounds or something. The cheap Schwinns usually use pretty standard sized, and therefore easily upgradable, bottom brackets, things like that.

I’d use the rest of the $300 to replace the freewheel to something like this:
DNP Epoch Freewheel 7spd 11-28 Nickel Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A8RPUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4ZtXCbXVFYWQK

That might get you a bit closer to a more fancy road bike’s gearing, with the 11t high gear. Past that, when you had the cash, I’m sure a change of tires, brake pads, a different seat, maybe a cheap replacement free hub wheelset would make quite a difference. Maybe a bigger chain ring. I think those Tourney front derailleurs can handle 50t.

I’m sure most people would say not to upgrade a $266 bike. But all of that doesn’t add up to much more, especially since so many are basically maintenance/wear parts anyway.

I can’t say I wouldn’t pick something else tomorrow. But if I had to put one in the cart right now for that price, that’s the best I can do.

How is the chain slipping? Is is dropping down or hopping up a rear gear, or is it slipping forward across teeth of the same gear?

Just based on your language, and how I perceive your knowledge of how everything is working, you might be best served by visiting a bike shop. Please don't take that as a knock against you, but if you want to take it in, you will be well served.

That being said, where's the fun in that? Let's do this ourselves!

If the chain is slipping forward, it may be stretched. Check out Sheldon Brown's article on chains. You can measure the chain stretch using a ruler, since every full link (that's two half-links, the individual swiveling parts) is 1" pin-to-pin. Measure twelve inches and the whole 12" should be pin-to-pin on a brand new chain. If your chain is 1/16" past 12" measuring twelve full lengths, replace it. If it gets more gone, it will start wearing down the teeth of your rear gears, and you'll need a new cassette or freewheel, depending on your rear wheel. That will cause slipping and skipping for sure, even with a brand new chain!

If you replace the chain, you will need to get a cheap chain breaker. There are many kinds at different price points, but I can vouch for that one as I carry it with me.

For a new chain, you have to get one that is the right width. This generally depends on the number of rear "speeds" you have. Up to 8 speeds in the rear is a standard chain. 9, 10, and 11 speeds in the rear require a chain that is thinner to fit in between the close spacing between gears.

You can also get a master link and replace a link in your chain with it - you can then remove the chain and reinstall it (for cleaning and work) without using a breaker. That's just a random one I found on amazon, which happens to be for 10-speed chains.

Measure your chain, check your gears for wear. If you have to replace your chain you just need a chain breaker and new parts. If you have to replace the rear gears as well you need a new set of gears and the appropriate freewheel/cassette removal tool. There a few common types of freewheel tools and just one cassette removal tool. They lock in to splines and allow you to use a standard wrench or socket to remove the tool.

EDIT:
Here's a video about removing a cassette

Here's a video about removing a freewheel

Here's a video about measuring a chain

Good news! I only need one wheel, the rear:
http://i.imgur.com/Wi2krBs.jpg

So I need a cassette and a wheel. Haven't taken the bike out of my car yet or done any clean up, but I'm probably going to pick up a new saddle as well. That or reupholster the one thats there (wouldn't be my first time reupholstering, though in the past the seats were from cars!)

The front wheel is good, the tire is flat. I'll check tomorrow to see if the tube is any good, or if I need to replace it.

As far as the rear wheel, any reason I shouldn't order something like this wheel paired with this freewheel cassette?

Cheap, but seems to have worked out for like trail riding for others (which is about as hardcore as I'll get).

Thanks again for your help so far!

I'm no expert, but a lot of that price will depend on what kind of cog set and chain you're getting!

You need to make sure it's the right kind/size of chain for the job (OCB can help with that too as they offer them for sale), but chains for not-super-fancy-racing-bikes range from $12-$50 retail (usually around the lower end of that range, say $15-25 being fairly typical).
What set of cogs you get will depend as well on what quality and range of gears you want and what's compatible. For my old bike's freewheel (freewheels are cogs that come as one complete piece vs modern cogs stacked on a cassette - freewheels are generally only seen on old 70's and 80's era bikes), I paid a little under $20 but if you're getting a high end cassette, you can easily spend $100. More basic ones run say $25-$60 on average (ala https://www.mec.ca/en/products/cycling/bike-components/drive-train/cassettes-and-freewheels/c/828).
Shop time at OCB is $20/hr. If it's your first time doing it and you need a lot of help, you're probably looking at an hour (if experienced should be more like 15-20 mins, though maybe longer if you're changing things vs straight replacing things and need to tweak your shifting to match). So $20 plus let's say you snag a $15 chain plus $30 cassette (cogs) after tax then you're looking around $65-ish at OCB? So say $45-70 depending on what you want/need/how long it takes you but something in that ballpark for non-fancy things. So $80 to get a shop to do it sounds fair if they're including parts.

First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.

Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!

Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?

You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.

If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.

great looking bike! shimano 600 components of that era (so-called "tri-color") has quite a good reputation and cult following.

as far as a frame ID: i would suggest heading over to bikeforum's classic and vintage, there are a few peugeot threads there and an impressive amount of knowledge on the forum.

chain-- width only changed with the advent of 9-speed, so you can use any "8-speed" chain just fine. personally i love the sram chains with power-link because they are good-quality, inexpensive, and the link makes installing and removing very easy (e.g. for cleaning the chain off the bike).

I don't have answers to all of your questions, but I recently put on the BBS02, and it is great. I think you will be happy with a Nuvinci, from what I've read. I put on a different cassette on the back wheel and I easily go 25mph. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A8RPUS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can go up hills without pedaling, probably 12 to 14 mph.

I can get 20 miles on 6.5 Ah. (was 10 Ah 3 years ago) I have a Ping battery and plan on upgrading to 15 Ah. This should easily give me a 40 mile range. I use my battery on the rear tire.

http://www.pingbattery.com/

Thank you for your reply.

I don't need "brifters" in fact, she would like to keep this bike near to like it is, if possible.

The downtube shifters are what we would like if we can keep them.

I can fine wheelsets on Amazon for $100 or so that accommodate Shimano 8,9, 10 or 11 (I think).

Can I get those and still get a cassette with 5 speeds?

I was told this is a 10 speed bike. There are 5 gears on the back and 2 gear/cogs on the front.

How do I purchase the cassette? Will this one do?

http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-5-Speed-Freewheel-14-28T-Silver/dp/B004XVOHY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420328330&sr=8-1&keywords=sunrace+5+speed+cassette

How should I search for the correct deraileur on Amazon?

Same with searching for brake replacements, what should I search for?

What is the "bottom Bracket"

The crankset seems fine.

The frame is straight with no rust other than slight surface rust.

Thank you for all your help.

It depends on how much you want to spend. (This, again, is why I suggested stopping now, and starting with a better / lighter / more compatible bike.)

Basically, you're at 24lbs for those parts, without tires, tubes, grips, brakes, brake levers, seat, pedals, chain, stem, headset, etc.,which means the bike is likely going to be over 30lbs once completed.

Assuming you're not going to listen to me (bikes do that to people), and you want to go ahead and build it up as a modern geared bike, here's what I'd do if I were in your shoes.

Get the Dimension Value Series 27" freewheel rear wheel for <$40, and the front wheel for about $30. Together, they'll weigh 2270g, which is 5lbs even. Add another pound or so for the freewheel and you should come to around 6lbs. (I'm not sure the math here is working well, as it should end up being substantially lighter than your existing wheelset.)

Also note that in addition to a modern 3 piece double crank, you're going to need a 1 piece to 3 piece crank adapter, which will allow you to use a modern sealed bottom bracket and a standard crank. (You're probably going to want to use a square taper crank / bottom bracket to make things easy.)

You may also consider building it up as a single speed, as that way you could thread a single BMX freewheel on the back instead of a multi-speed freewheel, could use a cheap track crank, and wouldn't have to worry about sorting out the shifters / derailleurs.

Good luck!

Hey everyone, due to the end of the world sale by on-one, my plans on getting a new frame might have accelerated a bit.

I bought a 2015 Cannondale F29 last December in Ohio and then moved to Seattle a few month later (wasn't expecting to). The F29 would have been all I ever needed for the Ohio trails, but the trails in Washington are a bit more exciting (I mostly ride Tiger Mountain), and I end up going over the bars fairly frequently with the 71° HTA. I have been thinking about getting a 29er all mountain hardtail, looking at the TransAm, Honzo, Big Wig, and Yelli/EPO. I haven't heard much about the Titus Fireline Evo, and wondered if it would also be a good fit.

It looks like I can transfer over most of my parts from the F29 as well, but I would appreciate if someone took a second look.

Fork: replace 100mm damper with 120mm. I have an email from Cannondale saying this is possible, even for 29er, but I can find no info on this anywhere. Definitely going to follow up before making any purchases.

F29 headtube: 134mm (for fork crown spacing)
Titus headtube: 119mm
Lefty-for-all type 1-1/8" adapter steerer tube with internal headsets required to meet stack height. 1-1/8" stem required to replace 1.5" stem.

F29 seat tube: 27.2
Titus seat tube: 31.6
Shims would be required for my gravity dropper.

Bottom bracket:
F29: BB30
Fireline: BSA 68mm
Would this bottom bracket work to use my existing cranks? Am I correct in thinking all Hollowtech II cranks and BB are cross compatible?

F29 rear axle: 10mm QR
Fireline rear axel: 135mmx10mm QR

F29 brake mount, rotor size: IS, 180mm rotor
Fireline brake mount, rotor size: Post, 160mm min
Will need adapter from IS to post mount.

If I use it, the front derailer may need a clamp on cable stop.

Did I miss anything? Kickstand compatibility? :P

>When I took it in for servicing they slapped a new chain on it, that was just last week so I'd assume that's good.

Absolutely. In fact, that fits with my freewheel theory: chains and the gears wear out together, especially as the chain gets more worn. A new chain and worn cassette can result in the skipping you described. Some bike shops insist on changing both at the same time, just in case.

> I've done chain replacements before so I know how to do that too. What information do I need to make sure I get a cassette/freewheel part that fits my bike?

If the freewheel is original, I bet it's this one. Any 7 speed freewheel will work, but it's easiest if you match the model with what you have so the great ratios are the same, you only need one tool, and the chain can stay the same length. The model should be printed on it somewhere.

Before you spend money on a cassette, it's worth making sure it's not a gear indexing issue either. That's free, just a quick twist of the inline adjuster.

Needs to be stripped down and de-scaled/de-rusted as much as possible. Chain removed and probably dropped in bin.
Fine grade steel wool or scotch-brite pads and kerosene can do a lot, and soaking components in Apple Cider vinegar works nicely as well, unless you have access to an Ultrasonic cleaner which is a better option. If you're going to stick with the original wheels, which look like 27s (630mm) then you're stuck with threaded freewheels. The Shimano 7sp HG freewheel is as far as you'll be able to go without either lacing a new hub into the rear wheel or buying a new wheelset in 700c. I'd refurbish the BB and Headset with new bearings, fit cables all over, throw a new freewheel on there and some Tektro r559 nutted mount brake calipers on there, some new Panaracer Pasela 27" tyres on there, job done. Oh, and lose the quill stem extender.

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

You don't need a 21 speed chain, you need a 6/7 speed chain. Here's an example of this. Most stores which sell bikes, including department stores, stock these chains. You can pretty much use any chain tool . Some choose to use a dedicated chain tool, while others choose to use the chain tool in their multi tool. If you don't already have a bike multitool, I would highly recommend picking one up. This one is very highly regarded and the additional $11 over a generic chain tool might well be worth it, if only because of the huge amount of added functionality.

For tips on changing a chain, you can watch this video.

BB standards and headest standards are retarded as fuck.

Brief lesson on BBs:

• Basically, most common standard that was on most bikes is the threaded bottom bracket, with a shell width (ie the left right edge to edge distance of the hole that holds the bottom bracket) of either 68 or 73mm. 68 was common for road bikes, while 73 was common for mtb. You would get something like this, which you would thread into the hole from one side and the cup from the other, and then mount the cranks.
  
  
• Shimano then figured out that you can make the cranks stronger by having bearings wider from each other. So what they did is made a threaded bottom bracket, except the bearings would sit in the external cups. The inner diameter of the BB is 24mm, designed for the 24mm crank spindles, (known as Shimano Hollowtech2). Note that the distance from the inner edges of the cups is 73mm as the wider standard is use on most mountain bikes, and the BB comes with the spacers to make it fit a 68mm width shell for the road or smaller width bikes (some modern dirt jumpers use a 68mm shell). However, the cups themselves are about ~10mm wide.
  
  
• Then bike makers found out that you can make the system even stiffer if you make the cups go in the frame, and thus was born the concept of press fit bottom bracket. Because the cup width was integrated into the shell, the shell width grew by about 20mm (the width of the 2 cups as before). So a bike with the 68 mm shell grew to the 86-90 mm range, and the bike with the 93mm shell grew to the 92-95mm range.
  
  
• The first way of doing the press fit bottom brackets was simply pressing the bearings into the shell. This is the BB90/95 standard and is the widest because of the support structure needed for the bearing. The bearings would be pressed in and fit flush into the frame.
  
  
• The next iteration of that was to include a sealed bearing type that was placed in cups from the factory, and these cups would be press fit into the frame. The cups themselves have a small ~2mm lip on them that acts a stopper against the shell edge when you push them in, so the shell width got smaller for these bottom brackets. So the BB95 became the PF92 (which is what yours is, sometimes called BB92), and the BB90 became the PF86. The advantage of this is that the unit was a sealed type, which meant less contamination, and the cups took up the compression stresses, which means less of a chance of overpressing the bearing during installation, which would lead to a reduce bearing life.
  
  http://problemsolversbike.com/files/tech/Bottom_Bracket_Standards_Reference.pdf
  
  So to answer your question, most shimano hollowtech2 crank will fit, as it is 24 mm and is the correct width for all of the above. The replacement bottom bracket from shimano for yours is called the shimano xt m800 press fit bottom bracket. A lot of them will say shell width of 68/73mm, which is fine because the "true" shell width from bearing to bearing is still 68/73mm.
  

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU7c0_G29MA

basically the hub is like one of these.

then i screw a free wheel on to that, that has an open end like this as opposed to this. I then get an old school metal bottom bracket cup which has the same threads as the free wheel. I screw that into the freewheel and then the next free wheel on to that extension piece (the bb cup).

An alternative to these would be the S300 SRAM crankset that would fall closer that price range new but still has great build quality and the external BB. Super stiff. I've ridden both.

Haha, yeah I took the advice on replacing the freewheel seriously just in case.

Thanks for the knowledge. I haven't considered this replacement up to now. I might give it a shot to keep the bike crisp and functional as well as getting my mechanic skills up with the experience.

Here is a follow up question, would a 7 speed like this fit or would the extra gear take up too much space?

If the pins and internals of the chain are rusted, when the rust is removed there will be some slop. I do agree that if the whole drivetrain is worn, your better off just freeing the chain so you don't have to replace the cassette too. But if the cassette isn't worn, I'd just replace the chain.

Without getting into the LBS debate, I buy chains online. My old LBS charged $40 for an 8 speed chain. They're less than $10 online. I'm not gonna make my college student friends pay $30 extra to support the LBS. $10 speed chains have a similar markup as well. I find many shops don't carry the basic KMC chains which I prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-7-8sp-chain-Silver-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374754&sr=1-1&keywords=8+speed+chain

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M/ref=sr_1_11?s=cycling&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374848&sr=1-11&keywords=10+speed+chain

Last time I was shopping for a crank for my 2008 Trek 4300 disc I got lucky and the crank that came with a BB fit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LWXUV7I/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lucky, because I had no idea about bottom brackets (and I still don't really). But that one fit and works great and was affordable.

The key compatibility items:

• Rim diameter: 700c (ERTRO 622mm)
  
• Rim width: At least 23mm or so. You can just match the front rim.
  
• Hub spacing: Probably 135mm but you can measure. See this picture.
  
• Hub compatibility: Thread-on freewheel is easiest. See this picture for the difference between a cassette and a freewheel.
  
• Freewheel: I think you can go up to about 28t or so. This freewheel would work but you might find a wheel with the freewheel installed.
  
  Edit: Check the specifics (especially the rear spacing) but this wheel might be what you need.
  
  If you get that wheel you will still need the freewheel, which should spin right on, as well as a tire (you have the specs), a tube, and don't forget the rim strip.

I have a cheap single speed commuter bike, not too different from that one. The generic freewheel it came with was all sorts of awful. Lots of ticking/clicking and really nasty feeling bearings. Not sure if yours is the same. I swapped it for a Shimano one which made a huge difference. You need a special tool to get the old one off or you can take it to a shop for a really quick swap.

Chain tensioners are also really nice to have to dial in your chain tension. Not necessary at all but nice for the peace of mind. Something like these.

One small thing to note with respect to other replies is that your bike appears to have a freewheel and not a cassette. KMC Z51 is probably fine and is about as cheap as a chain can get.

With that sort of setup, many people just run them until it stops performing well and then replace the freewheel and chain together. You can replace both for the cost of a decent 8 or 9 speed chain. In any event, as someone has already said, it's probably best to ride it until the winter is over and changing it in the spring.

Hey just getting back into biking after maybe 4 years of not touching it. I would like to get a flipflop hub so i can coast and also a rear and front brake. I have none of that equipment to do so. I also want to re-tape the bars too. What should I get? How do I order the brake set? What do you recommend? Someone said tektro but I was having a hard time finding out which ones i should get and what other things I needed to get for them. Here is my bike:

https://www.cyclesmithy.com/products/2018-fuji-track

https://imgur.com/a/zsah4JE

Edit: Like would I buy this to make it free wheel? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tooth-Single-Freewheel-32-Inch/dp/B0011YEAZ0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=flip%2Bflop%2Bhub&qid=1562768778&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

If you want to go to a 1x9 setup, use a bashguard in place of the big ring, and get an N-Gear Jump Stop

This is what I have. Shorten your chain to proper length and get a proper single chain ring, they have longer teeth. I haven't dropped a chain once with this setup, and I like to ride rocky trails where things bounce around.

Sounds like you have a square taper cartridge bottom bracket? That's what I currently have as well, but sitting on the table is my new Race Face crankset with external BB. While you certainly don't need to change cranks, I'm doing so because I ride rocky terrain and the new cranks will do a lot better, and take more hits. They're also a lot lighter than my current crankset/bb.

Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:

• Tires: Get the biggest tire that'll fit.
  
• Brake Pads: This bike looks like it's been sitting. The rubber in the pads is toast. Get some Kool Stops
  
• Chain: Never trust an old one. KMC makes solid stuff.
  

If you have horizontal dropouts, it's actually pretty easy. Basically the issue is taking up slack in the chain. There exists some products you can use if you have standard dropouts. An eccentric bottom bracket would be your best bet. Problem Solvers makes a chain tensioner you can put on your dérailleur hanger if you can't do the eccentric be.

Eccentric bottom bracket - this one is for bb30, I think you can get one for square taper style, too.. Phil wood makes one. Ask your lbs.

Chain Tensioner

You need to replace the cassette with a single sprocket.

You'd need to remove your derailleurs.

You would need to either replace your crank to a suitable one, or you can just take off all but one of the chain rings without too much issue.

Remember to support your local bike shop. They can get set up single speed much easier than on your own.

edit: yeah, i read it wrong. yeah it's not easy.

Yeah it will change gears fine, just mount your front ring with good chainline.

A chain catcher like this: http://www.amazon.com/N-Gear-Jump-Chain-Guide-Watcher/dp/B001CJXEKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414128685&sr=8-1&keywords=chain+watcher will add extra security cheaply.

Definitely a good decision by attempting to do the repair yourself instead of taking it to the LBS, you'll be saving a lot of money.

You can get the tools and parts for cheap on Amazon. you'll be paying triple+ if you buy them from the LBS, though the trade off is you won't be helping support "the little guys".

i'd hold off on replacing the front chaining since they wear at a verrrry slow rate compared to rear cogs, and only do so if you have similar problems after riding on a new cassette & chain.

You'll need a chain breaker tool to get the old chain off, this is one I purchased about 2 years ago, used it on 6 or 7 chains and it's still is going strong, under $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179JC31I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a new chain- https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-7-Speed-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B074YZGKKQ

also when was the last time you had your rear hub repacked? i'm not sure if just slapping a new cassette on that wheel given its state is a good idea, you might want to consider repacking with new grease and bearings and lubricating the free-hub first, which is more involved.

personally i'd say either get a new rear wheel, chain & cassette, then tinker around with the old wheel on the side, experiment with it, and ultimately keep it as a back up, or take the wheel to the LBS and let them overhaul the hub / lubricate the freehub before putting a new cassette on yourself, unless you want to spend the time learning how to do all that yourself, on-top of having to buy additional tools, bearings, grease, etc.

Thanks to your comment, at first I disregarded it as a no-way. But I looked at a variety of videos about cold setting the rear portion of steel bicycle frames. Including SB's article on frame spacing. I also looked at forum posts and it sounds like this is not an unusual operation to perform on steel frames you want to update to use newer wheels.

It does look like people are successful cold setting in the range I'm needing.

And frankly, it would be much easier to have the ability to adjust the chainline using spacers and a cog. So I am tempted to try this using a set like this.

I also called a LBS and asked if they do frame shaping like this, and the gentlemen said they could do it but suggested I consider trying it myself.

If I do not pick out a new wheel, as others have suggested and I do try reshaping the frame, one concern I have is that the frame has what appears to be a mount point that might not agree with stretching very well: https://imgur.com/a/T4iAg

I don't know enough about frames to understand if this is important structurally or provided as a simple mount. If it isn't important to securing the frame, I wonder if this is something that would need to be cut before attempting the cold-set.

Another issue is the dropout alignment after coldsetting the width larger. This frame has sort of long, flat dropouts and I think I'd need to get the dropout into a vice to bend the dropouts back after increasing the width. The videos I've seen have shown dropout alignment correction on small, easily moldable dropouts which are not like the ones I'm working with on this frame: https://i.imgur.com/m76m6Q5.jpg

One piece cranks are pretty easy to work on so they are a good intro to working on bikes. The only tool you need is a big adjustable wrench and some grease to get them up and running.

Six speed is the correct terminology. Bike speeds are typically expressed in one of two ways, the amount of rear cogs multipled by the number of front chain rings (7 in the rear 3) or by the amount of rear cogs.

If you decide to replace the chain, freewheel (rear cog set) and chain ring you will need the following, chain, freewheel, and example chain ring The chain ring you get needs to say that it works with chains that are 1/2 x 3/32. If you want to be anal about this, you can count how many teeth are on the small cog and big cog of your old freewheel and get a new one that matchs that range along with getting a chain wheel that has the same amount of teeth as your old one. This is likely to preserve your old gearing. This is not a huge deal for casual use, though it's something to keep in mind.

You will need a freewheel remover tool to get your old freewheel off. There are about ten different ones, so I would suggest going to bike shop and having them remove it, or have them tell you which tool you need. You don't need a tool to install a new freewheel.

Also, to install the new chain you will need a chain breaker.

However, I still doubt you need to replace all that crap. I'd start by fixing the bottom bracket, then seeing if that solves the crunching and chain jumping problem.

New Rear Wheel - had a 6 speed before so had to get a new wheel to fit the 11 speed and just shoved it in there to spread the dropouts.

New rear mech, cassette, shifter, chainring, and chain SLX m7000 - may or may not be real Shimano.....

New Crankset and Bottom Bracket - came wrapped in chinese newspaper. But.... it all works wonderfully!!!

i think this would not need a new derailleur, although you may need a new chain (and it's a good idea to change chain and freewheel together anyway).

changing a freewheel is a little tricky - look for videos on youtube (search for something like "change freewheel without chainwhip"). fit the new chain to the right length (don't just copy the old length - see here).

there's not much difference in feel between a larger rear sprocket and a smaller front one if the ratio is the same. it does feel slightly different (i am not sure why, but one or the other feels slightly smoother, i think just from the different vibrations you get as the chain moves over the different size gears). but in general you can trust the maths.

[edit: deleted a second option, as it was a cassette, not a freewheel]

I believe it! My bike is from the mid-1990s. I'm not even sure the one I found will work: http://www.amazon.com/DNP-Epoch-Freewheel-Nickel-Plated/dp/B007A8RPUS It says "HG Shimano, index compatible" which sounds right. (HG being 'Hyperglide' which was new at the time.)

Fortunately a friend at work is really into cycling and is helping me. I didn't buy this bike used, I've just had it that long. :)

I'm actually doing the same thing. I just built a new road bike and have some parts left so I will be building a budget single speed. I have a carbon frame, mavic wheels with 8,9,10 gear hub (will add this http://amzn.to/1M078HZ). I will also be getting this crankset http://amzn.to/1UCmyp1, this cheap brake setup http://amzn.to/1MSSi0I, some chain and a shorter stem since the frame is pretty large. Most likely will paint everything black with a gold chain. Will be super light since the frameset is carbon.

Marlin 5 looks like a 7 speed. So pretty much any old chain will work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-X8-93-Bicycle-Chain-7-3mm/dp/B001MXQHPG/

*edit, this one is $2 cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z-72-7-8sp-chain-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2

Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.

Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.

With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.

As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.

All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.

Rear derailleur - $20

Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring

Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear

Downtube shifters - $14

Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.

https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-8-Speed/dp/B000VDFQAA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sram+8+speed+chain&qid=1558695763&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3

​

I haven't personally used that model, but i've been using sram chains for years. They have a superior linking system to other manufacturers. If you buy or borrow a chain breaker, installing it yourself is simple enough. The big detail that you want to shop for is an 8 speed chain.

Absolutely! It's an IXF external bottom bracket / crank set combo, paired with a Snail 30t tooth narrow wide chainring, all available on Amazon. Super affordable. The conversion required a few specialty tools for removing the old hardware (square taper crank puller and internal bottom bracket removal tool) with one hollowtech wrench for installing the new bottom bracket.


There's a few good tutorials out there, just be mindful since you are working on the aluminum frame itself and stripped bottom bracket threads mean you'll need a new frame. I also took a few links out of the chain to help with chain slap and this thing is damn near silent now.

Tires are Bontrager XR4s, but they seem to have been discontinued in 29x2.3. They grip really nice off road but suck on the road due to high rolling resistance. Going to have to try something new once these wear out since anything wider might start scraping the frame.

I found infos about an older version of that Bike:

• Freewheel: Shimano MF-TZ21, compliments the all Shimano drivetrain (replacement part)
  
• Tires: KENDA, multi-surfaced 700X40 tires for riding on path or paved surfaces
  
  Question: Do I need to go with a original Shimano Freewheel?
  Apart from getting a quote from a shop my plan of action is:
  
  

1. measuring the hub spacing
   
2. checking the Rim width of the front rim
   
3. looking for a wheel with matching rim width, hub spacing and rim diameter (700c)
   
4. looking for tube and tire for that wheel

Thanks for the help!

I bought:

chain

cassette

Well, with those parameters, I'd consider building a single speed for your first build. Buy a freewheel, but use a salvaged crank, bb, chainring, handlebars, frame and whatever brake style the frame you're using is set up for: cantilever, caliper, v.

Here's an inexpensive 1/8" freewheel; that thicker size will mean that you'll use bmx-sized chains and chainring, rather than a thinner 9 or 10 speed chain. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SF-1200-Single-Speed-Freewheel/dp/B001GSSIIG/

That's way easier than messing with deraillers and cogsets on your first build. And when you're done, you don't have a fixie, but a bike with brakes.

Your freewheel is broken, you need a new one like: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-7Spd-14-28T-Freewheel/dp/B003B8JYPU/

If you want to do the repair yourself you're going to also need a freewheel tool like: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Freewheels/dp/B001B6RGXG

And some grease when you thread the new one onto the wheel.

Here's a good guide on how to do that: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-removal-and-installation

I don't know why you'd worry about replacing it as the exact part unless its a collector. From what I'm seeing it seems like its unlikely. Freewheels are a consumable part that are going to need replacing over time, only the most anal collectors care about them matching exactly.

For an easy swap, just replace it with a 6spd freewheel. Any shop that thinks that part is hard to find wouldn't have my business for long. It's a direct swap with maybe a little adjustment of the limit screws. The old 600 Arabesque derailleur should handle 28t fine.

Is there any way it wouldn't work with my bike? I got a Big Block, will it be just fine?

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-165mm-Black-Courier-Crankset/dp/B00554174Y

This looks pretty tempting.. I just want to make sure they would be fine with each other

So, bit of an update, this is what I ordered earlier and wanting to make sure they're compatible/good choices:

Cassette:
SRAM PG850 8 Speed

Rear Derailleur
Shimano Alvio 8 Speed

Chain
SRAM 850

and I was unable to find any 'cheap' single bar end shifters, most were the 'extreme' kind that have bars extended out in front of the rider(unsure what that is called); however, was able to find a 'good' deal for a right Shimano Sora ST3000 8 Speed shifters.

From my understanding, I could mix/match many of the parts except the RD and the sifter should be the same brand. They all should be 8 speed?
The one part that I have reservations about is the rear deraileur as I would prefer something more 'roady' than the Alivio but unable to find any that are '8 speed'; would it be possible to get a 9 speed Shimano RD and have it still function well?

>Change out the old cassette with a new Shimano HG-50-7-- will this even work on a road bike? 12-28

That depends on your rear derailler, but it will probably work.

>I need a chain to go with that.. thinking Shimano CN-HG-70-CS

half the price and the reuseable master link is nice.

Take a look here for your cheap CXP 22 needs. The cxp22/2200 (in silver) is $109 with ~$17 shipping vs Bicyclewheels' $145 + $50 shipping.

So now I feel like a jerk because I know they USED to, but I can't find it. Maybe they stopped making it. Whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_guEJBb3S7NVTP

This should work for you; or something similar. I like it because you can align your sprocket and chainring so there's no rub or noise from lateral play. Will take some finesse to get completely silent.

I'm not a mechanic, but you probably just need a new freewheel
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Single-Bicycle-Freewheel-Sprocket/dp/B001GSSIIG

And a tool to take the old one off and put the new one on
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Bikes/dp/B000AO9S68

it sounds like the pawls aren't engaging properly, probably rusty and/or gunky inside the freewheel.

Here's a wheel. It has a quick release axle, but will work well.

You could either buy this tool to remove the freewheel (gears) and switch them to the new wheel or you could buy a new freewheel set.

I'm assuming you removed a threaded on 5-cog freewheel from the rear wheel and then threaded on a single cog freewheel. I am assuming you did not remove a cassette and place a single cog and a stack of spacers on a freehub for this conversion. Is that correct?

- Yes and I replaced it with a Shimano single speed thread on freewheel: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tooth-Single-Freewheel-32-Inch/dp/B0011YEAZ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542405280&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+single+speed+freewheel

I haven't put on axle nuts yet, I am thinking about going that route with a new solid spindle

Thanks for the info, so should I stay with the freewheel or switch to cassette since I am replacing both parts, cassette seems cheaper but I am not sure if it will work?

Am I on the right track with these setups below?


Freewheel:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-HG37-Tourney-Freewheel-13-28T/dp/B001IORDH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427163&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Freewheel-Release-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2O48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427274&sr=8-1&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear

Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Nutted-Cruiser-Freewheel-1-75-Inch/dp/B003RLL5VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427463&sr=8-2&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28T/dp/B003ZM9QQY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427489&sr=8-4&keywords=shimano+7+speed+cassette

Check out my post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/chpp6t/first_build_first_ride_tsdz2/

Smooth shifting with new:

SHIMANO MF-TZ21 14-28 Teeth 7 Speed Freewheel

KMC X8.99 Bicycle Chain (1/2 x 3/32-Inch, 116L, Silver)

Getting over 60+ miles using gears first, 75% tour mode, 25% Speed/Turbo mode.

​

Kickstand: FORTOP Bike Support Bicycle Kickstand Adjustable Aluminum Alloy for 22" 24" 26" 28" Mountain Bike/Road Bicycle/BMX/MTB/City Commuter Bike/Kids Bike/Sports Bike/Adult Bike/700 Road Bike

Hi ,

Im looking for a new 7 speed chain for my bike something cheap

Currently looking at this one

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000AOA3PS/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

Had it previously on my bike it was alright but was wondering if there are more options in this price range? (Live in canada if on amazon the better!)

That appears to be a freewheel-only threaded side of your hub.

To install all you need is a freewheel.

Now would be a good time to think long and hard about your (drivetrain) ratio, as freewheels are more expensive than cogs and come in a narrower range of teeth.

You will need this: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-Mountain-Bicycle-Derailleur/dp/B00OJZQPDI

And this:
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS

And some tools or a local bike shop to put it all together.

Also, clean your bike!

SRAM S300 singlespeed, or Omnium, and you'll be good to go.

Hmm you are right, that picture does show a 1 piece crankset, though this one on the Fuji site shows a 3 piece: http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/cruiser-comfort/beach-cruiser/cape-may

If you have a one piece, you can use this adapter to convert to three piece https://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-00-6415-027-000-American-To-Euro-Bmx-Adapter/dp/B000VT550K

Most chain tensioners are not designed for wide ranging chain slack, but a rear derailleur is designed for that. I would recommend using one even if you don't run gears on the back

if the chain is getting slack every two weeks then maybe the wheel is moving in the dropout? it shouldn't stretch that much that fast

This might work for you. Its smallest gear is 13t but does have a 28 T gear. They make a 14-34T as well.
Shimano Tourney 7-Speed Freewheel

As far as I know you can do this 2 ways: get a new rear hub which is a single speed or a flip flop hub which has one side for single gear use and one side for fixed gear use, or you can one of those single gear cogs that you mount on to an existing cassette hub it's a converter sort of thing.

Now, there's no need to get a completely new rear wheel, but if you're re-using the rim, you'll have to take it apart to mount a new hub. It's simpler to just get a rim with a single gear hub already installed. Or get the previously mentioned adapter for your cassette.

Overall, I would say it's easier (not cheaper) to get a wheel that's made for single speed use. Also, keep in mind the spacing of your rear-drop outs as different speeds often have different sizes of dropout.

To be honest, I'm not really sure what a chain tensioner is. I just know the guy in the video was referring to one.

The conversion kit I saw was this: http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Fixie-Single-Shimano-Adaptor/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405727927&sr=8-1&keywords=flip+flop+hub

...which I'm only now realizing does not convert in the direction that I'm talking about or want.

The frame set is an older Fuji. I tried to track down the year, but couldn't get the model/serial to line up, so I think it's anywhere between mid to late 90s to mid 2000s (it has the older logo).

It has the fork, and I THINK a headset... though I'm not sure. Is that what goes on top of the handlebars, or under them?

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-7-Speed-Tourney-Freewheel-Replacement/dp/B003B8JYPU?psc=1

it uses this in the rear so i guess its a freewheel?

largest I could find on ebay NOS. By no means affordable.

If the shifting is friction (i. e. doesn't click for each cog), you can replace the rear wheel with anything 6 or 7 speeds, check out craigslist and you can probably get a decent old wheel with freewheel for about 20~30 usd.

Upon further reading it seems that freewheels have a standard ISO threading, therefore, again, if you're ok with friction shifting, you can use any old freewheel, even a new one. Not completely sure about the spacing and/or overall width though, so, give it a try.

A little late to this thread, but on my 29er I had the same sort of issue with the chain coming off. Total pain in the ass. I installed a chain guide courtesy of Amazon and it hasn't fallen off since when having to shift to those lower gears. Good luck!

If it is a 26" moutntian bike, get some Schwable marathon tires. They are excellent tires for most beginners riding around in most road/rough road conditions. Don't get some 15$ tire. Some basic BBB brake pads will be fine - nothing fancy. Get a chain while you're at it. For people unsure of what seat to get, I'd recommend on the the Tioga accentia line of seats, but they don't seem to be common in the US. You don't want one that is soft and spongey - even "gel" saddles should be very firm (similar to the feeling of the bicycle tire), and you want one to match your tailbone size. They make saddles in varying sizes (ladies have a wide pelvis, so their saddles are wider than all others, for example).

Remember, old bikes usually need 3 things: grease, cleaning, and a new chain (8sp linked, get the proper one for you). Dry bearings in the hubs/pedals are usually the worst.

Take you bike to a local bike shop and have them at least look at it. They can help you get the tires and seat. Give the 700c tires to the mechanic there (if they are not cracked up along the sides, otherwise toss em).

You could get a freewheel like this [Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel (14-34T Mega 7 Speed)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLNOKC). There's usually a big step between gears 1 and 2, but singular to what you have now. Why bigger is usually on 10+ speed bikes which isn't worth the upgrade in your case.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IORDH0?pc_redir=1411016731&robot_redir=1

If the chain was slipping, the derailleur probably needed an adjustment. The freewheel does not look worn to me

I have this on my commuter and it's solid. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ20-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71QI

Or a cheaper chain guide like this one..

N-Gear Jump Stop Chain Guide/Watcher 32mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CJXEKG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_nVP9wbZ6DZNPM

Damn I honestly don't know. Still kinda noobish when it gets down to all the measurements on my bike.

Here's all the info about the stock components on my bike: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/thehour.htm

And here's the crankset and bb: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00554174Y

Take the back wheel off and spin the freewheel (the group of cogs) if they feel gritty are hard to spin, you can replace them...they should still click when they spin and lock with the wheel when spun in on direction, but if they dont feel particularly smooth, abouth $25 will get you the freewheel and the tool to replace it.

so this would work i plan on ordering tonight.
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-165mm-Black-Courier-Crankset/dp/B00554174Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371339953&sr=8-1&keywords=sram+fixed

If it's the 28 TPI American size one piece, this is the adapter you're talking about. Going to need to remove the pressed in cups and then press in the adapter. After that OP can put any standard 68mm BSA BB in as far as I know.

6 speed cassette

I'm thinking this is the part I need to replace. This is what's kind of wobbly: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SF-1200-Single-Speed-Freewheel/dp/B001GSSIIG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=8GBDM6T90RO6&coliid=I3LLVFXCWL2V5T

Truvativ makes a one piece (ashtabula) to English cartridge bottom bracket adapter. You'll need that, a bottom bracket of the appropriate length (usually defined by crank manufacturer) and your new single speed crank set.

It is a 3/32 7 speed KMC Chain.

I have a hybrid bike with the exact same 7 speed freewheel and chainring, last week the freewheel went bad so I got this one the bike had the same tires as your's and I went with 700 x 30 tires and the bike is a bit faster but not as good as a road bike. Why not buy a used road bike as it's going to be far lighter than the wife's bike.

As everyone already said, you need a new freewheel.

I cant tell if thats a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but here is the 6 speed and
here is the 7 speed part you want.

and you need this to get it off.

There are a million freewheel replacement videos on youtube that you can watch to see how its done. Once you get the old one off ( and it will be a bitch to get off... most freewheels are) popping on the new one is stupid easy.

I guess that would work, but the only problem is eventually you'll be running a nasty chainline. I only paid $15 for the cog and spacers plus I have some replacement cogs (from old cassettes) for when stuff wears out. Otherwise I'll happily pay the $15 again.

Here's: the cog/spacer kit I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_gEjTj3QBqwcC3