Reddit mentions: The best bike stems

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I bought the frame about 2 weeks ago. Finally got in for my fit yesterday, and thought I would snap off some photos and share with you all.

Build Details

A little over 2 years ago I built up this Dengfu FM098 with the intention of building the component spec how I wanted, and then eventually migrating the parts to my dream frame.

I considered the emonda slr, the BMC Teammachine SLR01, the R5, and the tarmac. I also looked at the Canyon CF SLX, but decided against it since getting it to the US would have been a hassle.

I eventually narrowed the list down to the R5 or the Teammachine. I went with the R5 primarily because the Teammachine's non-sloping top tube combined with my short legs resulted in a frame that looked a bit oversized for me, and because realistically the R5 has been my dream frame for the past several years anyway. Combine that with the results of the Tour Magazine test, and it was a pretty easy decision to go with the cervelo.

As pictured, the build weighs in at 6.85kg, but I've got a couple things on the way that should quickly get it at least into the 6.7s


Parts List:

• Cervelo R5 Frame, 48cm, uncut fork, headset, derailleur hanger: 1144g

• 3T Stylus 0 LTD stealth Seaspost, stealth, 27.2x350, cut down (154g)

• Fizik Kurve Snake saddle

• 3T ARX Team Stem, stealth, 120mm, -6°

• 3T Team Stealth Ergonova Bars, stealth, size 40

• Fizik superlight bar tape

• Ultegra Di2 6770 group set with 3 port junction box, internal battery in the seat post

• SRAM S975 Quarq Powermeter, 50/34, 170mm (quart bb30 power meters have long enough spindles to be used with BBRight)

• Dura Ace 9000 C24 Clinchers

• Continental GP 4000s II tires

• Speedplay Zero SS pedals

• Arundel Sideloader/Othersideloader cages

• Garmin 810

The Fit

My body shape is somewhat anomalous. I'm 5'5.75" with short legs and a long torso. I have short femurs within my already short legs, hence the 0 offset post. My long torso and good flexibility combined with my forward position on the saddle mean I can take a long/low front-end pretty comfortably, so I'm running a -6° 120mm stem. My fitter suggested that I could eliminate the one remaining spacer and slam it all the way if I want to, but I'm going to ride like this for a while and see how it goes. As is, it's a very comfortable position for me.

The Ride & First Impressions

The paint looks really great in person and I really like how subtle the branding is on the frame. There's a metallic quality to the gunmetal grey, which is contrasted nicely with the relatively solid color of the black in the logos, and the red along the top tube. It's also a nice contrast to my previous bike, which was all matte black and a pain to keep clean. At some point I'm thinking I'll have the seat post painted to match the top tube.

I went for a 30 mile ride immediately after the fit, and am thoroughly impressed with the bike. The weight difference from my old frame is immediately noticeable, especially when the road tips uphill. It just wants to climb. The power transfer and acceleration are very good, and the frame feels very lively while still being comfortable.

Probably the biggest thing that surprised me though is how well the bike holds its speed. Granted, my previous "aero" frame was open mold chinese carbon, but the R5 doesn't feel like it's lacking at all in that department. In my mostly flat 30 miles (west side bike path, NYC), I didn't notice any real difference in terms of my speed/power output vs what I'm used to from my FM098, and my time to the halfway point of my ride was on par with what I was doing last year on the old frame. Hardly scientific, but it bodes well.

Ok, now go ahead and make your dentist jokes (I'm not a dentist, for the record).

Giant TCR is a pretty nice bike, and although the geometry is not endurance fit, it's not a TT or Tri bike. I'd keep it. If you want to bring up the handlebar or closer, you can change the stem. I don't think it's outright wrong. But, if you want more relaxed geometry, there are other options for sure.

I have the Origin8's ergo stems on two of bikes. Because the angle 35d rather than standard 7d, I can ride more upright.

Unless you strongy dislike the TCR's handling, that's what I'd do.

Between the Impulso and Synapse, I'd prob. take Synapse. (I had 2010 Synapse). To be honest, I don't know Impulso, but I do know Synapse is said to be the best alu. frame bike.

I don't know your budget, but I'd take a look at Trek Domane, Spec' Roubaix, Fuji Gran Fondo, Raleigh Clubman Disc or Record Ace, Giant Defy, Scott Contessa Speedster. One odd ball like Lapierre Sensium is also an endurance bike. (I happen to have Sensium 400, and love it.) If you can find Jamis Endura, Bosanova, try them too. Pretty every bike company has an endrance oriented bike and it's up to your budget and LBS's availability. For the money, Giant, Fuji, Scott are better values, IMHO.

I'd prob. pick a steel frame bike with Tiagra, like Raleigh Clubman Disc. A little more comfy than alu. frame, and Clubman is really made for group ride. 105 is nice but Tiagra, esp. current crop is very nice and fits your needs better.

I'm 6'1" and like a somewhat upright position on my commuter bike. I also have several MTB's.

It's my impression that you may need to do a little customizing with aftermarket parts to get exactly what you want.

When you say mostly pavement, and maybe gravel roads, that would normally put you in the category of cyclocross bikes, "gravel" bikes, commuter bikes, etc.

However, you also mentioned getting tires as "thick" as you can get them short of being actual "fat bike tires."

So let's start with a discussion of wheels and tires.

What is Mid-Fat or Plus?
There's a genre of mountain bike called mid-fat or "plus" tire size. They are typically either 27.5" X 3.0~ish, or 29" X 3.0~-ish. Watch this video to figure out what I mean:
https://www.bikemag.com/gear/mean-27-plus-29-plus-bikes/

These tires would do great on Chicago snow. However, these type of rims and tires would absolutely only fit on a mountain bike specifically designed for wide-tire spacing.

So, what is "cyclocross" or "gravel bikes."?
https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/205556-cyclocross-bikes-v-graveladventure-bikes-whats-difference
They are road bikes (with the roadie look of curved drop handlebars) with wider-than-normal and grippier than normal tires. However, these tires are still narrower than any typical MTB. Although these tires would be great for wet conditions, bad roads, gravel roads.... I imagine they would not do much for snow.

https://www.jensonusa.com/Mountain-Bikes?WheelSize=27.5%22+%2b

One issue with new mountain bike design is everyone is moving towards a slanting top tube and lower standover, then using tall seatposts to get the bike fit correct for tall riders. A "dropper post" (adjustable on the fly) is great for trail riding when you want leg extension for flats and climbs, but a lower post for rocky/rooty descents (or jumping).

So......... if you were to get something like the Kona Unit X,
https://www.jensonusa.com/Kona-Unit-X-Bike-2018 , I would suggest first getting the longest seat post you can buy. Or maybe even a dropper post. I bought a 170mm one recently.

Next you said you want an upright position. For that, you'll want taller handlebars. You could just get an angle-up stem like this https://www.amazon.com/FOMTOR-Bicycle-Handlebar-Suitable-Mountain/dp/B075FL98Y8/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=riser+stem+31.8&qid=1554328430&s=gateway&sr=8-4 but that only raises the handlebars like 3-4 inches. Frankly, at 6'5", to get a very substantial upright position, I would recommend BMX handlebars. I have a 29"er myself, which I put 8.25" BMX handlebars on, and it feels great.

Right now there is a trend of big-retro-BMX-style setups like the SE Big Ripper. A lower-end company called Framed jumped in and made a 29" wheel BMX: https://www.framedbikes.com/products/framed-x-spacecraft-29er-bmx-bike-mens
If you put these SE 7" rise bars on that Kona, it could be cool.
https://www.jrbicycles.com/se-super-big-honkin-handlebar-chrome

Then you'll need a BMX stem because the clamp area on BMX bars is 22.2 instead of 25.4 or 31.8 on MTB.
This stem would be a budget option, but there are others that are in the $45-$80 range:
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Ops-DefendR-BMX-Stem/dp/B004TN08YC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=bmx+stem&qid=1554328284&s=gateway&sr=8-5

If you don't want a BMX look, that's fine, I get it. Frankenbikes are not for everyone.

Typically frame builders made long head tubes for tall riders' bikes, rather than raising the handlebar height. Check out this old school tall dude's bike. He still has drop handlebars (I guess for aesthetics... but the head tube and seat tube are very tall. https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/1bzc88/and_i_thought_my_64_cm_bike_was_large/

Honestly unless you're super committed to that frame I'd find another bike. However there are some considerations if you're pressed on budget.

The bars, here's a flat bar on Amazon:
Bars
New Stem:
Stem

Some tektro levers, and brakes are your best bet. Good value and performance.

Levers:
Tektro levers
Calipers:Calipers

Shift levers for the new bars:
Levers
These may not fit the bars, the clamp diameter wasn't listed.

Of course then all new cables, grips for the bars, and a new chain might also help. I just gathered those components on price alone. So if you have money to spare then I encourage it. As is, that bike wouldn't have my time or money, however if I were to upgrade it that's the way I'd do it. Cheers.

Sweet it looks like a nice bike.

It looks like there's a fair opportunity to make the bike more upright and improve the ergonomics without needing to switch to flat bars.

Most obvious thing would be get a high rise stem like this which will raise the bars and bring them closer.

Then you could look at compact bend handlebars like this bike has, your bike has a traditional bar with more forward extension and a deeper drop. Many people find these bars make a big difference to their comfort riding drop bars.

If you did both that and the stem change I expect you'd notice a big difference.

Finally, you could also add a stem extender that lets you raise your handlebars a couple of inches even higher.

If you did decide to go flat bars it looks like an OK candidate, the bars would still be low vs the saddle though without a stem swap or going for riser bars like this conversion has.

The quill stem inserts, doesn't fit on. The threadless headsets and the quill stem headsets are not interchangeable, so you would have to make some special efforts.
Here's a pic and some additional info:

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/how-measure-quill-stem-125691.html

You insert the stem into the steerer, and then tighten it down.
Alternatively, you could buy a stem extender, such as this,

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo-Quill-Stem-Extender/dp/B000AO7GXK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1412571159&sr=8-13&keywords=Stem+extender

install it, and then install a threadless stem over it, such as this:

http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Pro-Pulsion-Riser-Stem/dp/B005DNTNPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1412571477&sr=1-1&keywords=bicycle+stem

That way, you can have your cake and eat it, too. However, the original design is still quite good, and your vintage bike will look better original, unless you want it different. The quill stem is still used on some road bikes (and a few hybrids and mtb's), and works very well.
Good luck. Ask more if you need to do so.

Something like this might bring it up a little further. It's a 90mm long 45 degree angle stem.
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Mountain-Handlebar-Extender-Components/dp/B075XJJ4CJ/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1506605322&sr=8-12&keywords=31.8%2Briser&th=1&psc=1

Combine it with something like this and it would get even higher.
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=51573

5.5" rise 31.8mm clamp bars
https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Group-BX-HB1331855-BK-Maximus-Handle/dp/B00B90HCKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506606474&sr=8-1&keywords=BX-HB1331855-BK&th=1&psc=1

Another issue you're going to run into is cable length. The cable on your left hand brake looks like it's just long enough to fit the current height. If you push it up with new bars you're going to need a new cable. With a 5" rise I'd be willing to bet you're going to need all new cables. Unless you can do it yourself you may want to sell your bike and buy a Roll like your friends. That's going to get expensive if a shop is doing it.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Alloy-Bicycle-Raiser/dp/B000FGYKWS/ A stem riser might help get your existing bars up higher.

If after you slide the saddle(seat) forward on the rails, and loosen and twist the “rise” handlebars in towards you about 45 degrees and you still don’t get the position you want, I’d start with different bars. Reason being is that you want both closer AND higher.

If it does work for you then just adjust the combo brake lever shifters for the new position by loosening and rotating them so the levers are comfortable.

The way stems work is with an angle and length, if you go shorter, then even the steepest angle won’t give you much rise. They do have adjustable ones that can give you a ton of rise, then in combo with turning you bars towards you, it may do the trick (plus you can inch it back down as you become more flexible and fit). https://www.amazon.com/Wake-Adjustable-Mountain-Handlebar-Lightweight/dp/B07BQ17PMX/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_468_t_1/144-2945294-1081954?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=A2YG64KKK78YN2KPYHN4

The option I would go with is some cheap downhill mtb bars with the appropriate amount of rise, and turn them in. If I found that it wasn’t enough then I would get a shorter stem and in conjunction with these bars I would be guaranteed to be pretty dialed in. It’s a matter of preference which one you would try first, but I know which way I would. These ones are out of stock but I’ll share them as an example. https://www.jensonusa.com/Spank-Spoon-60-Handlebar

Think these ones are a little less rise but in stock https://www.jensonusa.com/Answer-Alumilite-Riser-Bar

You also could go full cruiser bars, they will have a more swept back feel and aesthetic, but regardless of bar or stem choice double check before you order that it will fit what you have. If you put together an order, people here will do a final look over it to make sure it will fit if you need the help.

>EDIT: I think I'm definitely going quill stem at this point. I think I'm also going to see if I can find a NOS Dura Ace fluted seatpost.

Nice.

I like this Origin 8 one, which I saw on a Centurion Le Mans RS around the internets. It was super shiny: http://www.amazon.com/ORIGIN8-STEM-OR8-ALY-22-2x150x100x25-4SL/dp/B00B138POS/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1376492482&sr=8-12&keywords=origin+8+quill+stem

Re: that crank, it still looks like a spaceship part to me.

Can't wait for your build thread! (Oh, in the pic the paint looks pretty good, I'd probably leave it alone.)

> everyday for years (including extensively using drops as a messenger), just not a fan of them - I don't enjoy the hand positions nor braking positions. The only time i've ever enjoyed drops is when I ditched the road lever and set up some cross tops.

Sounds to me like your extension may be too great if you find riding and braking from the hoods uncomfortable. Or perhaps you've only been using non-aero levers which don't have as comfy as position to ride on as modern aero levers?

Solutions:

• A shorter extension stem, and maybe a more upright one. Something like the Kalloy AL-222 may get your bars in a more comfortable position for cheap.
  
• Modern aero levers like these.
  
• Non-drop bar: I think the Casey's Crazy Bars are a decent option with 23.8mm compatibility.

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

Depends on where you live. I bought a chromo trek 820 frame in good condition for $30 off craigslist the other day.

I love quill stems with removable face plates. I also love long quill stem adapters with threadless stems clamped on with removalable face plates. I hate not having the ability to adjust handlebar height easily and elegantly without crazy long steer tube sticking up out of the fork.

Look at this beautiful piece of art. If I were a steer tube, I'd want this inside of me.

Yes, you can use either one of these, but it looks like you'll also need to lengthen the brake cable. If you get the adjustable one I'm posting, it'll pull the bars back to the rider, giving the same effect, and you might not have to lengthen the cable. all these types of products come in different lengths too. Make sure to measure the stem width, usually 1 1/8th across.

https://www.amazon.com/Suncentech-Adjustable-Mountain-Handlebar-Components/dp/B077JXCKB3/ref=sr_1_7?crid=12BFTSCP9YPP1&keywords=bicycle+handlebar+adjustable+stem+riser&qid=1562554708&s=gateway&sprefix=bicycle+handlebar+adjustable+stem+riser%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-7


https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=bicycle+stem+riser&qid=1562555126&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Old steel singletracks are awesome commuter bikes. <3 Ever thought of getting a kalloy stem? Not sure if you feel stretched on that awesome 90s geo.

Yeah, I don't see why not. A shim doesn't noticeably effect performance at all, especially on a commuter bike. Something like this will do the job perfectly as an adapter. Or, you can get a new quill. Either way, you'll spend less money by purchasing all that, than buying a new 1" threadless fork.

EDIT: 1" threadless carbon fiber fork.

It's this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FL98Y8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I looked everywhere for an inexpensive riser stem that wasn't adjustable, but they were usually really expensive. This one fits the bill perfectly.

If you want to make some mods that will be reversible, you can get a quill stem converter (https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Threadless-Size-Converter/dp/B0028N14GQ), a short mountain bike stem (50-60mm), wide mountain bars, take off the kickstand, and then add some better pedals. I did this to my '91 RockHopper and it made it fun to ride and I was able to convert it back to original. Also, ditch the rack and crate unless you really need it but it looks like it's pushing your seat way too far forward.

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

Kudos for getting back to it!

Perhaps try one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FHBED0

I put one on my wife’s bike and it helped her get a better position.

Unfortunately you can't easily make the handlebar higher easily You could use something like this

https://www.amazon.ca/Delta-Cycle-TD3318B-Bicycle-Raiser/dp/B000FGYKWS

As for the fork the adjustment just locks out the suspension is all.

Still it's a great find for $60.

You might want to think about one of these.

I've gone both ways on this, working from pretty much the same motivation as you with my intent, frankly, being in large part wanting the more modern look.

I put a new fork and a threadless headset into an old Ibis and it worked fine but cost me some money and didn't have any functional advantage over the adapter approach I took on a Giant Rincon of the same vintage. If I were doing it again I'd probably shell out the $20 for an adapter and the $15 for a 1 inch headset and I'd see if that got me where I wanted, because if it didn't I could always go back and do a 1 1/8 fork...

If you don't want to replace the fork, you can also use a stem extender. However, some people doubt their safety and you definitely shouldn't use them to raise more than a couple inches.

Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bicycle-Stem-Raiser/dp/B000FHBED0

https://www.modernbike.com/stem-measurements

shows you how their measured

buy a couple of cheap ones on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/FOMTOR-Bicycle-Handlebar-Suitable-Mountain/dp/B075FL98Y8

find the one that suits you best than return the others & use the one you got or upgrade to something more expensive but not necessarily any better performing.

Make sure you get the proper size (clamp).

Yeah, at that point I'd recommend a quill stem that goes up rather than down.

Thanks! This stem adapter and this cable hanger.

I dont think I will be able to correctly communicate that to anyone here.. It was suggested I get a stem riser. These three ship to where I am, could you recommend one?

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bicycle-Raiser-8-Inch/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413552672&sr=8-2&keywords=stem+riser


http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Pro-Stem-Raiser-Black/dp/B007WEQIT4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413552672&sr=8-4&keywords=stem+riser


http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Bicycle-Handlebar-Extender-Adaptor/dp/B00LM34GQI/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1413552672&sr=8-16&keywords=stem+riser

You don’t have many options. Either buy the adaptors, some version of this thing or something really nice like this or a cheap one like this.

Looks like you stripped the hole. The easiest way to fix it would be to get a new stem with a quill as you have a threaded headset like the one in the link, but you will need to choose the right diameter handle bars you have. The link is for a 25.4mm handlebar but yours may be different.

Origin8 Classique Sport Quill Stem, 150 x 100 x 25.4mm, 1" Fork Diameter, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B138POS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VH2PAbZVWFAJ9

Here is the link for the product I purchased:
Origin8 Quill Adapter, 22.2/25.4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057C3EGI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The one titled “22.2/25.4 to 28.6” is the one that includes the shim. Should work with all standard threaded forks.

The dimensions can be quite confusing so here’s how it goes. 1” (referred to as 22.2mm) refers to the OUTER diameter of a threaded fork. The actual INNER diameter of the fork (or outer dimension of quill) is ⅞” because the thickness of the metal is 1/16”. For a larger fork with a 1-⅛” (referred to as 25.4mm) outer diameter, the inner diameter is actually 1”. And for threadless forks, the outer dimension is 1-⅛” (28.6mm).

So, to go from a 1-⅛” threaded headset to a 1-⅛” threadless system, the adapter’s physical dimensions are actually 1” to 1-⅛”.

I’ve seen some errors on some online listings regarding this and I actually ordered a product that didn’t fit before I did the math. Hopefully this long explanation helps.

Hey all,

Does anyone know what stem size is compatible with a 53cm 2017 Kilo TT Pro? I can't find this information anywhere.

I want to get this kind of stem (I've already tried 100mm and 90mm because I read those sizes were compatible online):

Thanks!

**EDIT: I can see I was horribly misguided when trying to fit this stem onto the tt pro. It looks look I need some kind of stem adapter - would this work?

If there's nothing wrong with your fork, and you'd like to keep using it, you can get a threadless/quill adapter (like this) and use it with a modern stem.

While that would work it's not very elegant.

I suggest you start by flipping the stem to angle upwards would increase the handlebar height by about 2.5cm. If that's still not enough, you could try a stem like this.

Just a heads up, the one /u/Nicruiz41 posted is for 1 1/8" forks. Gotta make sure you get the right size for your fork. Here is the same stem for 1" forks:

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-2-Bolt-Stem-Silver/dp/B007BWR602/ref=rtpb_1/145-4345073-5582254

I believe they also come in black if you look on eBay or maybe further on Amazon.

You need a 1" quill stem or a threadless adapter like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037N6PEC?pc_redir=1412262710&robot_redir=1

The adapter lets you use modern bars if you do desire, as there are no quill stems for 31.8 bars.

It’s a pretty relaxed set up. I may swap it out for something that gives me a little more reach but we’ll see. I’ve only ridden the bike once since I finished it.

Wake MTB Stem 45 Degree 31.8 90mm Bike Stem Mountain Bike Stem Short Handlebar Stem Riser for Most Bicycle, Road Bike, MTB, BMX, Fixie Gear, Cycling ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0772TDTCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_XFrGhHRY3pAOO

Pretty sure this is the same stem but for way cheaper

or keep using your old fork with an adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Threadless-Size-Converter/dp/B0028N14GQ

Velo orange has one thats really expensive but there are $25-30 options on ebay and Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Threadless-Size-Converter/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=asc_df_B0028N14GQ/

​

Or get an adapter to run a modern stem for much cheaper

You probably need a stem adapter, not a shim. This will allow you to use any modern stem.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kdpDDb90D68MG

It can be useful if people don't alter it, but that portion of the URL is ignored by Amazon and people can put whatever they want. This link works despite being totally bogus:

https://www.amazon.com/free-carbon-frame-for-pinkp0weranger/dp/B0028N14GQ

Edit: typo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LNBC494/ref=sspa_mb_hqp_detail_mobile_aax_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used a stem adapter made my Origin 8! http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Threaded-Threadless-Quill-Adapter/dp/B0037N6PEC

Just get a quill to 28.6 adapter and you can use a standard stem to run 31.8 bars https://www.amazon.com/Profile-Design-Threadless-Size-Converter/dp/B0028N14GQ/

Hm, so since you have had one I'll just show you what I was looking at for a headset (if you don't mind).

Headset

Stem adapter

Stem

I used a 1” threaded to 1 1/8” threadless adapter. This allowed me to use any modern handlebars. Below is a link to the one I used.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1 - 1/8-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I saw a video where the guys suggested this!

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Z0ODDbC2E345N

Depends on the frame. My Trek took a 1 1/8 threaded fork which meant I could swap the fork/headset/stem for a threadless one. You're fork is probably 1" threaded so no go. There are a few work arounds like a threadless stem converter, but generally you're stuck based on your frame/fork.

Profile Design Threadless Size Converter (1" - 1 1/8") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028N14GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KkkWDbCG21VE2

You could with something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FGYKWS?pc_redir=1404191801&robot_redir=1


That said, this is the least graceful way to solve your problem

Won't need a new fork or headset, just a new adapter, and a new stem.

Out of curiosity, what Centurion did you pick up? I have an old '86 Time Machine I've been thinking about converting.

you've got the wrong fork extender

https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=stem+riser&qid=1557329666&s=gateway&sr=8-9

I've extended steerer tubes on several bikes. The I've owned this bike for many years (it has an old style headset).

http://i.imgur.com/Zef8Dlp.jpg

The parts are readily avalable at Amazon or eBay...

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bicycle-Raiser-8-Inch/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415419343&sr=8-1&keywords=steering+tube+extender

The above comes in a short or long version. I've had these on my bikes for quite some time, and no problems.

The adapter is a Profile Design and the stem manufacturer escapes me right now, and I'm too lazy to check, but a moderately priced stem will do the trick.
The Drops are Soma Portolo and are extremely rad, I can't say enough good things about them.
Levers and brakes are tektro and the shifters are micro indexed on the rear and friction on the front (I forget the manufacturer there as well).
Overall the changes have made a world of a difference on that bike.
I normally ride with Resist Nomad slicks, but then some snow and ice came so I switched over to some Suomi Studs and then the snow melted.