Reddit mentions: The best bike tires & tubes

We found 858 Reddit comments discussing the best bike tires & tubes. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 507 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

1Kenda K838 Slick Wire Bead Bicycle Tire, Blackwall, 26-Inch x 1.95-InchKenda K838 Slick Wire Bead Bi...7
2Continental Gatorskin Bike Tire - DuraSkin Puncture & Sidewall Protection, Road Bike Replacement Tire (23c, 25c, 28c, 32c)Continental Gatorskin Bike Ti...5
3Bikehand 37pcs Bike Bicycle Repair Tool Kit with Torque Wrench - Quality Tools Kit Set for Mountain Bike Road Bike Maintenance in a Neat Storage CaseBikehand 37pcs Bike Bicycle R...5
4Continental Gatorskin DuraSkin Bicycle Tire (700x25, Wire Beaded, Black)Continental Gatorskin DuraSki...4
5Continental Gatorskin DuraSkin Folding Bicycle Tire (700x23, Folding, Black)Continental Gatorskin DuraSki...4
6Park Tool VP-1 Vulcanizing Patch Kit for for Bicycle Tube Repair - Set of 6 Patches & AdhesivePark Tool VP-1 Vulcanizing Pa...4
7Park Tool GP-2 Super Patch KitPark Tool GP-2 Super Patch Ki...3
8panaracer Pasela 27 x 1-1/4 Wire Bead Tirepanaracer Pasela 27 x 1-1/4 W...3
9SKS Chromoplastic Bicycle Fender SetSKS Chromoplastic Bicycle Fen...3
10SCHWALBE Marathon Plus HS 348 Road Bike Tire (700x32, Allround Wire Beaded, Reflex)SCHWALBE Marathon Plus HS 348...3
11Continental Grand Prix 4000 S II Road Clincher, Black, 700 x 23-InchContinental Grand Prix 4000 S...3
12Kenda K908 Pathfinder Wire Bead Bicycle Tire, Blackwall, 26-Inch x 1.95-InchKenda K908 Pathfinder Wire Be...3
13Slime 30059 Self-Sealing Smart Tube, Schrader Valve (26 x 1.75-2.125")Slime 30059 Self-Sealing Smar...3
14Continental Gatorskin Wire Bead Road Bike TireContinental Gatorskin Wire Be...3
15Continental Ultra Gatorskin Bicycle Tire (700x25, Folding, Black)Continental Ultra Gatorskin B...3
16Serfas Drifter Tire with FPS, 29 X 2.0-InchSerfas Drifter Tire with FPS,...2
17Continental 60mm Presta Valve Tube, Black, 700 x 25-32ccContinental 60mm Presta Valve...2
18Schwinn Replacement Bike Tire, Cruiser Bike, 26 x 1.95-InchSchwinn Replacement Bike Tire...2
19SCHWALBE Marathon GG RLX Wire Bead Tire (700X25)SCHWALBE Marathon GG RLX Wire...2
20Park Tool GP-2 Pre-Glued Super Patch Puncture Repair Kits (Pack of 3 Kits)Park Tool GP-2 Pre-Glued Supe...2

8. panaracer Pasela 27 x 1-1/4 Wire Bead Tire

  • Urban/Commuter tire
  • Steel (Wire) bead
  • 27 x 1-1/4 and Black with Amber sidewall
  • Weighing 390 grams
  • Max 95 PSI
panaracer Pasela 27 x 1-1/4 Wire Bead Tire
ColorBlack with Amber sidewall
Height0.5 Inches
Length27 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateDecember 2012
Weight0.82 Pounds
Width27 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

19. SCHWALBE Marathon GG RLX Wire Bead Tire (700X25)

Increased durabilityIncludes GreenGuard3mm of thick layerFeatures Anti-aging
SCHWALBE Marathon GG RLX Wire Bead Tire (700X25)
Height11.81102361 Inches
Length11.81102361 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateApril 2011
Size700 x 25mm
Weight1.1464037624 pounds
Width11.81102361 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on bike tires & tubes

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where bike tires & tubes are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 42
Number of comments: 9
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Total score: 8
Number of comments: 5
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Bike Tires & Tubes:

u/Gnascher · 2 pointsr/cycling

> So, as far as the wheel go, you're nsay that we should be fine with whatever aluminum wheel I can find online, since most wheels can handle the weight?

Pretty much. Wheels can sustain hundreds of pounds each, so you're splitting that weight across three, you'll be fine.

Something like this would be fine, but you don't really need to buy new. Any box-section alloy wheel will serve your purposes quite nicely ... survey your local used bike dealers, craigslist, etc...

Be more concerned about the health of the hubs than the weight of the wheels. I'd look for a cup/cone bearing hub. Folks looking to trade a little bit of durability for reduced rolling resistance will often remove one ball bearing and use very light grease, and make sure that the preload on the bearing cone is the minimum that will prevent any lash.

> if the Pro 4 Service Course is only mid-level when it comes to rolling resistance, what's a tire off the top if your head that you think would be a better choice?

The Continental Grand Prix TT is rated #1 in terms of rolling resistance at only 9.9 Watts/tire at 120psi. This blows away the field and everything in its price class. Pretty reasonably priced too. To get the most out of a good low rolling resistance tire, you should couple it with a latex tube. These are slightly more porous than "normal" butyl tubes so you'll need to re-pressure them daily, but they roll significantly better, especially when paired with a very supple tire.

Now, keep in mind that a tire like this is also delicate, so it'd be a good idea to have at least one replacement on hand in case of a sidewall tear or something due to road hazards.

If you'd like to choose a slightly more durable tire (like for testing, etc...) you should get a set of Continental Grand Prix 4000s ii. This is still a great rolling tire, but trades a few watts for durability.

u/day1patch · 0 pointsr/bicycling

I like it!

As a fellow singlespeed rider I recommend you do yourself the favor and grab a Brooks B17 saddle, it's the best upgrade I ever bought for mine, after a week or so it became just as comfortable as everyone says. If you need new tires I like the Continental GP4000SII, they are fairly expensive but I found they are simply perfect for street and city riding with surprisingly good flat protection.

Much fun in any case, the bike looks like tons of fun :)

u/Sybertron · 1 pointr/Frugal

For me I just grabbed a pair of these off amazon for my bike.

Does a hell of a lot better on the road, while still leaving me the freedom of jumping on a trail if I like. If you never changed tires before it's super easy to do yourself but you'll need a pair of plastic tire irons (~3$) and a pump. You can forgo the pump by popping into any local shop and asking for air with a smile.

You can always get a cruiser style for around $250 though, which really isn't too bad for a decently comfortable bike.

No matter what I'd hunt on craigslist and compare to shop prices. Sometimes you can find total steals on CL (sometimes literally...) make sure the owner is legit and didnt steal the bike btw. Check the wheels are decently straight, misaligined (non-true) wheels can cost like $50 each. Jump on it and ride it around the block, make sure the brakes feel solid but not overtight, the drivetrain between the pedals feels solid and smooth, and that'is overall the right fit for you (legs should be just short of full extension when pedal is down, and make sure the front handlebars are a good height for your hands). Check out it's stopping distance from a decent speed, but don't go too crazy and damage a bike you don't own. For checking out shifters a lot of cyclists don't know how to keep and maintain theirs, so it can be tricky. The best thing to do is just tack on 20 bucks to the price and get it adjusted at a shop (most will be fine, just need adjusted/cleaned to get to a few gears), but you can see if the shifter is still functional or totally rusted out and check that the cables are still going into the housing smoothly or not and check the same with brake handles and cabling as well. If it's not it may be like 30-40 to repair. Finally check the sprockets for the chain. The chain should ride smoothly in any position, and you wanna check to see that the sprocket (called a cassette) is not too terribly chipped or worn down. Some wear will ride just fine though.

u/AimForTheAce · 2 pointsr/whichbike

I prob. don't recommend either. Your friend's bike is probably very modern, and the tools like crank puller isn't needed. Your friend's bike isn't using square taper or Octalink. Also, the chain tool, pedal wrench and cone wrenches that comes with the kit are crappy and you'll have to replace them anyway, or close to useless.

So, the common maintenance - replacing chain, cassette, pedals, chainrings, brake pads and tires. If the bottom bracket (BB) is external bearings, you can easily change that too. The kit includes the square taper BB tool, and Shimano's external BB tool. I'd recommend the better adapters than ones in the tool. For example, if the BB is Hollowtech II, this tool works well. You need a tool for cranks' preloading nut and it's not standard.

If the BB is press fit, bring it to LBS. You'd need a removing and installing tool, and although you can do it, it's pretty specific to each style of BB. Again, it's better to buy the tool specific to it and the kit is no use for this.

Headset bearing - modern headset would be pretty simple to service. Wheel hub bearings - you'd want to use better quality cone wrenches than ones in the kit.

If you want a tool kit that can do most things for variety of bikes not just your friend's, I recommend this one. (see edit) Note that, this is probably overkill for your friend's bike but if you want to take care of older bikes, this one should cover 90% of things. (You'd need combination and adjustable wrenches, etc.)

Oh, one more thing. Buy a good torque wrench. There are a lot of alloy things on modern bikes, and to prevent stripping the screw, using torque wrench and tightening to spec is very important.

EDIT: Why I recommended the toolkit. The chain tool in the kit is excellent. The chain plate holding side is adjustable so the chain stays in place while pushing pin. Cone wrenches come in each size. The cassette removal tool (lock ring tool) has the pin in the middle to align. The headset wrenches (your friend prob. don't need) come in all the sizes needed. (I had to buy 36/40). It covers most external BBs.

u/dsf900 · 5 pointsr/personalfinance

Put aside $500-$1000 for a nice commuter bike and you can extend your reach to 5-10 miles around any public transit stop.

Get a nice mid-level bike and prioritize functionality over gimmicks (those being anything that doesn't contribute from pedaling from point A to point B, like built-in computers and whatnot). You can find plenty of great options in the sub-$500 range, but decide for yourself what you want to spend your money on. I bought a $450 upright/comfort mountain bike hybrid and have put $200-$300 into upgrades, and the result is a very rugged, low maintenance, and capable vehicle.

Worthy upgrades:

  • A luggage rack with one, two, or three panniers/bags can hold a huge volume of stuff. I live a five-minute walk from my grocery store but I like to take my bike anyway because it's annoying to walk home with heavy groceries and jugs of milk. The luggage rack doubles as a splash guard in the rain.

  • Thicker tires meant for commuting/roads will drastically cut down on the number of flats you get. My first year commuting I was probably changing a flat tire once a month (and changing one when you're in a hurry is very frustrating). I switched to a thick inverted tread pattern meant for road use and haven't had a single flat since. I use the tires below, which is designed for mountain bikes and the big inverted treads mean that I still have great control on loose gravel surfaces but all the advantages of a street tire you'd get on a road bike (but still more puncture resistance).

  • A nice big cushy seat. Anyone who says otherwise is a masochist, and numbing your balls is not going to get you to work any faster.

  • Disc brakes, especially hydraulic, are very helpful in wet and snowy conditions and provide all-around more reliable stopping power. They've saved at least one jogger who ran right in front of me without looking- my front wheel actually touched him, but only very lightly.

  • A good helmet, high visibility jacket, and lights for night riding are all good to have (and may be required in some places).
u/scarlet88 · 2 pointsr/MTB

I understand the "don't buy a kit" mentality that others in this thread are suggesting but sometimes it's nice just to buy everything in one go, rather than piecing things together one by one. I did some research a few years ago and ended up grabbing this Bike Hand kit ($129) We've had it since ~Dec 2015 and it has held up well so far. The tools seem to be pretty high quality and it's nice to have a box to keep everything in. The box itself is also great – heavy duty plastic exterior with a metal tray inside for organization. Hope that helps!

u/MOIST_MAN · 13 pointsr/bicycling

I've created a short list of everything I have, linked items are the ones that I recommend.

Things for the road

Frame/ Mini pump

Saddle Bag

Patch Kit

Tire Boot (You can make your own for cheap, but these are still good)

Tire levers (See Multi-Tool, Levers Included)

Multi Tool (Super-Recommend)

Bike Lights

Spare Tubes (Optional for the road)

Bottles of choice

Sunglasses of choice

Gloves of choice (Important! For preventing impossible-to-heal palm scrapes)

Cycling compter

U Lock (no cable locks! they're garbage) <<I Have 3 of these, but then again, I live in Oakland.

Things for home

Floor pump

Tools (Pretty much covered by Multi-Tool, but there's things you may need like cassette tool, chain whip, etc)

Wet and Dry chain lube

Clothing (Optional, I only have the shoes and windbreaker)

Hi-Vis Jacket

Clipless shoes, I recommend SPD for easier walking


Padded Shorts, or Bib shorts


Leg Warmers

Most importantly, you need knowledge of cycling. Look up videos on youtube about safe riding on the road, traffic laws, hand signals, how to repair your bike on the road and at home, how to take a fall, and as much theory that you can)

EDIT: Do not let me trick you into thinking that a multi-tool is a replacement for the big-boy tools that are available on the market. Some of those tools are actually worth the investment. However, be that as it may, do your research first, because there's some overpriced crap out there ^^^Park ^^^Tools.

u/iheartfirefly · 8 pointsr/cycling

I'm new as well, but I have these tires and love them so far. I shop at for tires, but I would recommend you spend another $20 to get tires at your local bike shop if you don't buy other stuff there. It's really good to have a relationship with an LBS...I'd be really lost without it.

There are also some other threads that talk about tires, so you can check that out but I think Gator Skins was high on the list of recommended tires. Solid, don't get flats, not noisy, don't cause too much friction.

Happy Riding!

u/AnontheMaus · 5 pointsr/bicycling

I think you'll find that specs are hard to come by as this isn't a top-end bike of the era, being just another steel-framed semi-racer style of bike that was common at that time, with stem shifters, suicide levers and centre-pull brake calipers, axle mount derailleur and entry-level crankset.

That being said, the bones are there for a nice riding weekend bike or short-hop commuter. Doesn't really justify any sort of significant investment, and I'd recommend just refurbishing it as is without upgrading (although a part of me wants to replace that crankset). Disassemble, clean and then regrease the BB, hubs and headset and fit new ball bearings into the BB, hubs and headset (easy to find, take your old units into a good LBS and they'll provide replacements).

Then throw a new 5/6sp chain on there and all new cables (Jagwire are fine). The only thing I would recommend though, if there's going to be any significant riding, would be to replace the brake pads with KoolStop Continental brake pads which will make a significant difference to your braking.

Finish off with some nice bar tape, job done. You'll also need a 4th hand cable puller to do the brakes properly.

good luck..

edit : forgot to mention tyres, those look pretty crusty. Would suggest throwing a set of Panaracer Pasela on there, good tyre at a reasonable price and comes in gumwall for that retro 70s aesthetic

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/cycling

The 700x25 folding are the best IMO. $35 on amazon.

Continental Ultra Gatorskin Bicycle Tire (700x25, Folding, Black)

I recommend gator skins if you’re getting a lot of flats If you’re not getting flats, they’re not really going to help you. May want to consider something with a better ride, better grip, more efficient.

I only ride gatorskins though.

u/suquamish · 1 pointr/bicycling

Assuming it's a 26" junker MTB, and Washington is the state (versus Washington DC)....

I use these tires while there's no snow: Kenda K838s

I'm on my second year of these tires. They do everything I expect them to do, at a cheap enough price. They do great in wet and dry conditions, and work okay with fresh snow.

For fenders, I use these: Planet Bike ATB Fenders

These perform okay, but honestly, I often wish I had purchased the version with the extra mud flaps. They keep most of the crap off me, but during heavy rain those flaps would be great at keeping my shoes clear of the spray from the K838s.

u/AnguishInAnglia · 4 pointsr/bikecommuting

I never carried spare tubes for the longest time. I didn't think that the time it takes to find and patch the hole was worth the bulk of an extra tube, especially using the self adhesive patches. You'll want some tire levers too.

After finally giving CO2 a try I carried a spare tube around for a while. Pretty quick to throw a new tube on and worry about patching it later at home. Now I vary between carrying an extra tube or not, but I still carry a hand pump in addition to the CO2.

I carry a small multitool for adjustments as well. It's a small ratcheting set that has proved useful more often for things other than the bike!

Got your lights all set up? You may want to consider an extra battery as well, or a charger to keep at work if it's a charging light.

u/twoleftpaws · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'm currently using my MTB for the same reasons. This week I finally put a couple of new Kenda 838 tires on it, and immediately noticed a huge difference from my worn out knobby tires. The engineering of them is very cool (they are a lot like motorcycle tires, and have an almost bell-shape for gripping better on turns), they're much smoother and quieter, and the improved grip on turns is really noticeable. $17.34 each on Amazon.

Definitely also get some good padded gloves and a decent helmet! And since you're commuting, I'd also suggest a mini tool, tire levers (for removing tire from rim), pump, patch kit, chain lube, and front/rear lights for low-light riding.

u/geocyclist · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I commuted on a 1994 Stumpjumper for the past few years at school. I used cheaper Kenda 1.95 road tires that are still good after I bought them summer 2011. I also put a rear rack that carried either m-wave panniers for grocery shopping, or a trunk for small stuff.

Lights are a big thing. You can get them cheaply, I've been using a planet bike set for a while. The tail light is either solid or flashing and is very bright, but the headlight leaves something to be desired.

Good luck!

u/ford_chicago · 1 pointr/cycling

Definitely do a careful inspection of the entire tire looking for a foreign object. Different tires can make a huge difference in flat resilience.

Durability and flat resilience is super important to me on my commuter bike. I had a similar rash of flats a couple of years ago and then swapped to Continental Gatorskins and have not had a puncture flat on that bike in three years. They are quick, but can feel a little sketchy in wet conditions.

I run Schwalbe Marathon Plus Tour on my touring bike and have put more than 10,000 km on them through Patagonia and South East Asia on a heavily loaded touring bike with only one flat. They are great all weather and terrain tires, but not particularly fast.

I have used these patches and they are easy to use and very reliable.




u/_me · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Yes, replace. You can probably get away with the tires but it's best to replace them if you have the cash. are some great ones if your tires are 27"

u/archbox · 1 pointr/bicycling

Yeah, it's torn right at the base of the valve and a little inward. I actually have a few patches from my wife's bike but they wouldn't be able to get around the valve.

This self-sealing tube looks like it has a lot of good reviews. It sounds like the goo does make a huge mess and you need to keep the tire placed with the valve at the top of the tire after a puncture or else you won't be able to reinflate the tire due to blockage from the goo. But for $7 shipped I think it'd be worth a shot:

u/e_2 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Similar setup.. I don't have extra spokes, but I do bring a tube on 40+ mile rides.

Multitool is the Park I-Beam 2

CO2 is the Red Zepplin

Patch is Park Super Patch

Don't forget the Tire Lever (one if you're good, two if you ride stiff Conti's)

All easily fits in a Topeak bag

u/EZ-PEAS · 3 pointsr/askscience

FYI, you should be able to easily find commuter-grade bike tires that are significantly thicker and significantly less prone to puncture.

Most bike tires are sold as performance tires and are designed to be thin. Your bike tires require a significant amount of energy to spin up to speed, and once they're moving fast they store a significant amount of energy. Heavy tires cause effects like increasing stopping distance and difficulty in cornering due to gyroscopic effects. Thus, performance bike tires are designed to be thin, and even things like mountain bike tires are usually a thin layer of rubber with studs for traction. Thin tires are cheaper as well.

Anecdotally, when I bought these tires I went from having about one flat a month (commuting 10 miles a day) to never having another flat again. The inverted tread pattern makes the tire much thicker in most areas while still allowing for a tread that grips on wet and snowy roads. These are regular pneumatic tires in other regards, so they're still relatively light and have good shock absorption.

u/Financial_crisis · 1 pointr/Detroit thats the product i'm talking about. If youre new to cycling I would recommend taking the wheel on and off and replacing the tube a few times before you ever attempt to take this route. Changing a tube is super easy, but If I didn't know how to do it the last place I would want to learn is the side of the road. The goo wheel might help, but having general bike knowledge is going to help even more.

u/HARSHING_MY_MELLOW · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I've been using these Schwalbe 25s and I love them! Nice smooth ride, extremely durable, not noticeably slower than a 23, great for commuting!

u/corprwhs · 1 pointr/bicycling

Everyone seems to love the Continental Gatorskins. The reviews on Amazon seem to support this.

Edit: Never mind, I think these tires are too narrow to fit your rim safely.

u/nnnnnnnnnnm · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

I don’t think you need anything special.

I usually ride Kenda K838s until it gets really bad and icy. They are a heavy tire, but super cheap and they feel great. I did a 16 mile ride through snow/ice/slush yesterday and never felt out of control.

u/vskid · 1 pointr/ebikes

Tubes that come with Slime sealant inside them, like these. Never used their tubes, but I've had good results with putting Slime in other tubes. It's great against small thorns.

u/parsimo2010 · 1 pointr/bicycling

700c (aka ERTO 622) is the most common road bike tire size by quite a bit. Just look for tires marked 700x25, 700c x 25, 700x25c, 700x25 mm- basically you want to see the numbers 700 and 25. The measurements are in mm (unless you see something like 29x1.25, that would be a mountain bike tire measured in inches), and the c just indicates a 622mm bead seat diameter (the same for all 700 size tires). It's unlikely that you will see it, but 622 is the same size. However, 650 or 650b tires won't fit, so keep your numbers straight.

Every bike shop will have appropriate tires, even Wal-Mart has them (but don't get Wal-Mart tires). You can spend anywhere between $20 and $200 for a tire. I'm guessing you want a tire that will last a long time but don't want to pay a ton. Conti Gatorskins are pretty hard to beat for those criteria:

The Conti 4 Seasons are another good option, but usually cost a few bucks more.

u/drewr · 1 pointr/cycling

I put Kenda K838s and Odyssey pedals on a 2002 Specialized Rockhopper. It's not as fast as my road bike, but I can ride all over the city (over curbs, grass, etc), it's really comfortable, and a lot of fun!

u/NoodleSnekPlissken · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

Your LBS is full of crap. That bike is a good candidate to learn bike mechanics on, being relatively simple. If there's a bike co-op near you, that would be ideal. Start by accumulating parts that will work with your bike, which has 2x5sp friction shifting, DiaCompe centrepull brakes (Schwinn branded) and 27" (630mm) wheels.

Examples of parts that will be appropriate
This SunTour rear derailleur
These SunTour stem shifters
This Izumi 5sp chain
And if you need tyres, these Panaracer Paselas in 27x1 1/4".

Everything else should be easily obtainable, and the brakes should work fine after disassembly , clean and re-lube.

edit : linkages

u/sickrefman · 1 pointr/bicycling

So I got my first flat on my way to work this morning, woefully unprepared, I was lucky to be about a half mile from home. After about a month of commuting to work I finally had a breakdown. it has been holding up well for about 100 miles on NYC streets on my new diamondback century sport (2017)

My tire says (26-622, 700x26C)

can anyone explain why it's impossible to find a bike tube that fits? I have googled for an hour and found some informstion yet they still sell bike tubes as "26x1-1.5in" "26x 2-2.5 in" and I'm getting frustrated they do this nonsense. I believe the 26C translates to 26mm and about 1.02 inches, so a 26x 1-1.5in bike tube would fit?

I bought this tube because I think it will fit but it's probably a bit big
Continental 60mm Presta Valve Tube, Black, 700 x 25-32cc

I think will fit and I got a mini pump so next time I can fix it and get back on my commute.


u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/NYCbike

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u/Nom-de-Clavier · 1 pointr/bicycling

If you're going to be commuting you should look at getting fenders (SKS are good) and a rear rack and pannier bag (you're better off letting the bike carry your stuff; you won't get a sweaty back from a backpack). I'd also probably recommend a chainguard (which lets you ride in jeans/regular trousers without worrying about ripping the shit out of the cuffs).

u/toddthetoad · 1 pointr/bicycling

You can't put road bike wheels on your mountain bike, but you can switch the tires out to something more like a road bike tire. These will be slicker, so you'll get a little more efficiency on the road, you can usually find them by searching for "hybrid tires".

I used these before, and they worked well for me.

u/D0esANyoneREadTHese · 1 pointr/bikewrench

The tread on those is pretty damn slick, and the grass is on enough of a slope that if it's been raining for more than 3 days my current wheels will spin a few places, plus they look like they'd be deadly in the snow. I'd like something a little more well-rounded, these were recommended from my original link and they seem to be a little more like what I need.

u/ANAL_CLOWN_SHOES · 2 pointsr/MTB

Because of our conversation and looking things up in my Zinn book, I almost just bought this:

But, I'm talking myself down from that for now. Gotta save something for Christmas! lol

I'm just going to buy the spoke tool for now. If I can use the extra chain laying around and automotive tools, then I'll try disassembling the hub and inspecting the grease. Thank you for helping me.

u/Tim_Buk2 · 2 pointsr/ukbike

They look pretty good! Quite a bit lighter than the Marathon Plus (which is their biggest criticism) which is a good thing, but of course a thinner puncture protection.

A Marathon Plus in 700x32c is only £24.48 with free delivery here on Amazon

That is what I would get for only £1.59 more.

u/sns1294 · 1 pointr/MTB

I bought these for $10 each last fall, but it looks like they're a little more now... They work well on pavement, gravel, and very easy trail use.

u/Mr_Ected · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Nice. I haven't used that particular version of Schwalbe Marathon tires, but I'm sure they're great.

These are the ones I use. I like the tread pattern and these are the ones that people say are "bomb-proof". I commute 20 miles a day and I've ridden over all sorts of crap (LOTS of glass on my commute!) and the tires simply don't care. In fact, whenever I run over large glass fields I swear I hear the tires say "lol".

u/peppersnail · 2 pointsr/cycling

I think that's a fine idea. Most of the race team guys run those all the time.

You asked for some extra puncture resistance, which is why I mentioned the 4 seasons.

Note that there are different 4000 tires i think. The ones I have experience with are specifically 4000sii, like these:

Continental Grand Prix 4000 S II Road Clincher, Black, 700 x 23-Inch

I think they're different from 4000s:

CONTINENTAL Grand Prix 4000s Road Bike Tire Black One Size

u/evilweed · 2 pointsr/bicycling

For summer/mixed road use I have some Michellin XCR Dry 26x2.0's on at the moment - they work well on dry trails and don't have ridiculous rolling resistance on the roads. I had a set of kenda small block 8's last year and they worked pretty well to, similar tyre really.

I used to have a old MTB which was my commuting bike and also my pub bike, the one I didn't mind leaving locked up in town of an evening, but then the inevitable happened and someone nicked it. Anyways, I had some kenda slicks on that - if all you're doing is road and maybe the occasional dry, flat trail then slicks are your best bet.

u/Deutsch28 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Thanks everyone for your help. So far I am debating on these tires and this one any opions would be appreciated.

u/HaylonMc · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

The light is an Axiom Lazer 200. The bike I ride to work every day on is a Felt Z85 '13 stock except the saddle and the Conti Gatorskins.

The camera is a Garmin Virb Elite. My cycle computer is a Garmin Edge 510. The ANT+ sensors sync to both the Garmin 510 and the Garmin Virb so it records your routes and all vitals of the ride at the same time.

You CAN however, download the VIRB Edit software from Garmin, use your own video and if you can export your ride data from your head unit, you can sync that to the video and use the same overlays as I did. Mine are just really easy and auto synced since the camera records all that data for me :)

u/wolbscam · 1 pointr/MTB

i use these tires for road/dirt and love em

edit: doesn't do well on gravel (sinks), but handles slightly rocky paths like a champ

u/Lolor-arros · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

No problem! You can use camelcamelcamel to check Amazon price history, or wach other sites for sales. They get to $30-35ea a few times a year on Amazon. I got one for $30 through REI's Memorial Day sale, and a great deal on panniers and a rack. I'm not that familiar with other retailers, but I'm sure there are at least a few good ones out there.

u/totallyshould · 9 pointsr/bikecommuting

I know that they're a tad heavier and slower, but gatorskins and marathons were the biggest improvement to my commute, probably better than getting a pannier. I was getting weekly flats for a while, and after the upgrade I went months and months between flats.

u/GeminiTitmouse · 2 pointsr/bicycling

The 25 will probably fit, but the rim may be slightly too wide for the bead (though at that bike's level, I doubt it). My suggestion would be to get some good 28s, they're negligibly wider than 25 (and in real terms, may even be the same width, depending on brands), will roll just as fast, with a tad more cushion, and shouldn't roll off of the rim.

To your last question: probably not. Entirely changing out the wheels and modifying the drivetrain in order to fit slightly narrower tires on your hybrid is not worth the effort and expense. Any tire that is narrower and slicker than what you have now will roll faster. I've had good luck on crappy city roads with these

u/louielouayyyyy · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

I have used Kenda Kwik Trax and Continental Touring Plus. The Kendas were better off road, but the Continentals are more durable. I've heard great things about the Continental Gatorskin

u/UrbanITx · 1 pointr/bicycling

This...if you want super minimalist check out the SKS Longboard or my personal favorite, SKS Chromoplastic, if you want somethign that adds another element to your bike check out the ones zed mentioned.

u/nothing_clever · 1 pointr/survivorzero

My bike repair tools are 2 wrenches, a screwdriver, bike pump, and some tire patching kits. Also potentially important would be letting you put a basket of some sort on the bike, so you could carry more supplies, like this. It's how I go grocery shopping sometimes, and I think it would fit well in this game.

Edit: also, with those tools I could tear my bike down to it's most basic pieces and put it back together.

u/yabrennan · 1 pointr/bikecommuting
  1. Depends on the distance and the weather. You'll be sweating like a hog in the summer with a backpack. Opt for a pannier or a saddle bag if that's an option.
  2. Depends on your current level of fitness and the amount of hills/wind on the ride. You should be able to finish if you're relatively fit. Worst case scenario is you're tired at the end of the ride.
  3. Yes. I use this one and it works well.
  4. I use Garmin connect to track my miles, speed, and heart rate.
  5. Do a test ride on a weekend with all the gear you would need for the actual ride.
u/mayowarlord · 0 pointsr/bikecommuting

You can be sure that the faster folks are probably riding a tire closer to 700x25, where the bontigers on that bike are 700x35. Those are quite wide which does mean a fair amount of rolling resistance. The tread adds to that but is minimal on the tires you have. I personally ride 700x25 gatorskins which are road slicks. They aren't grippy and I feel every bump. So it's very much a trade off. I think for you it's worth trying a road slick that a little thinner. The gatorskins come in a ton of sizes 700x28 is still fairly wide but you would see huge returns in speed from them, while getting a bit more resiliency than a 700x25 offers.

Flat bar bikes are not really designed for a leaning forward riding position, as you have noticed. This is probably only really important when there is a headwind. Slipstreaming and general aerodynamics really only matter above 20 mph (that could mean 5 mph headwind while you are going over 15mph).

Also consider clipless pedals and shoes. It's not for everyone, but I can no longer tolerate riding without them. There are a ton of benefits.

u/onandagusthewhite · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Those all look like good bikes. For commuting you'll want to lock out the suspension and depending on the course you take, I suggest getting some slick tires like these. and keep them at the maximum recommended pressure if your course is all paved.

I ride this Giant Revel and I've put over 11,000 kilometers on it.

u/US_Hiker · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

u/tcal13 · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

I have put close to 2000 miles on these tires and only had to replace the rear this season. Sure they are heavy and don't have the best rolling resistance but I have been flat free for an entire season. Worth every penny in my eyes buubthe folding they are hair lighter. Continental Ultra Gatorskin Bicycle Tire (700x25, Folding, Black)

u/1138311 · 2 pointsr/cyclocross

I'm about 190 lbs and keep my clinchers at 40 in the rear and 35 in the front for whatever I'm doing unless I'm hauling something heavy on my back. When I first started out, though, I would keep them around 55/45 and would still manage to pinch flat because bike handling. Carry a couple extra tubes and a pump with you until you get used to doing off road things on a road like bike - you'll only learn by doing.

These things are a lifesaver, by the way.

u/jgregory17 · 1 pointr/cycling

I converted an older Giant OCR3 into a single speed (not a fixie). It has been extremely durable and surviving NYC just fine. Get sturdy wheels, I have mavic Aksium, and good tires. I use these -

u/Stickytapemeasure · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I was about to tell you that you don't need expensive brand-stuff for your patches. But then I saw that they' re cheap.

You can also use the glue with just some cut up old tubes, but you'd have to clean it really well.

I bought a set of 100 patches, since I allways have glue leftover from those patchkits. You only need a thin layer on both sides. You don't use the glue to stick the patch to the tube, you use the "glue" to make the patch and tube to "melt together" or vulcanize. Less is more.

Let the glue dry on both the tube and the patch before pushing them toghether.

u/brians_ · 2 pointsr/cycling

I just put these on my Trek 2.3 and I really like them. They're also pretty reasonably priced.

u/csisac · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'll keep it short.

For your tubes:

For tires: Amazon US Link Or similar, as mentioned.

Hope these help you!

u/dcobs · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

I had a very similar hole in my side wall and I figured hey it can't get any worse so I applied a "Park Tool Vulcanizing Patch" on it and it's been working great since.

u/professor-i-borg · 1 pointr/bicycling

They're a puncture resistant road tire. I used to bike a lot at night, and the bike lanes in my area have horrible potholes and seemingly randomly spaced manhole covers. Because of this I would be fixing inner tubes like twice a week. Then I got those gatorskins, and I've yet to fix a puncture. I don't know if they're the best, and they do add a bit of weight to the bike, but they are definitely durable.

u/rickymare · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I have SKS full coverage fenders on my Bare Knuckle and they fit. They even have neat mud flaps. You can use P clamps if your bike does not have the mounts.

u/borkthenork · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I have Gatorskin tires and I love them! I pump them all the way to to 100-120 PSI and I noticed the difference right away. A coworker had the same set for two and a half years; he rides about 200 miles a week.

u/riorio88 · 21 pointsr/bikewrench

Depending on the make/model, factory tires can be absolute garbage. For your own safety, replace the tire. When I worked as a bike salesman/mechanic, I quickly learned that one of the best things to invest in is your tires. Do yourself a favor and, if you can afford it, by yourself something with a kevlar lining. When I lived in the States, I commuted every day and went on longer rides 2-3 days a week, but could manage close to a year on Continental Gatorskins.

u/DavidPx · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I had those tires on my old bike, a $300 hybrid. They worked great.

u/robsodomy · 1 pointr/bikewrench

These are what I've had on my bike for the last year. No complaints. Excellent lightweight fenders and no more soaked shoes or back slop.

No matter what fender you get:

  • they will need to be almost exactly the same curve as that of your tyres

  • they will have to fit between the narrow spot at the top of your forks & between your seat/chain-stays

  • they are likely going to be a bit of a pain in the ass to install (sometimes to get a snug enough but not too snug fit, you may have to cut the spokes that hold it onto the braze-on mounts to size measure thrice & cut once

    Good luck. Fenders make an amazing difference if you aren't a fair weather rider.
u/atlasMuutaras · 1 pointr/bicycling


While I've got you, what's the difference between these two tires.

wire bead


What does "wire bead" mean and why do/don't I want it?

u/pkulak · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

Sounds kinda cool, but I installed a pair of these almost two years ago and haven't gotten a single flat since:

I used to get a flat a month. And they ride just like any other tire.

u/DorkusMalorkuss · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Thank you, so much for the response!

So, all we need are these four things, correct?



Cassette - What size should I go with? Does this also mean that I need to put the chain back on, every time we swap out her wheel/tire?


u/ramennoodle · 18 pointsr/bikewrench

Looks like it covers the basics, except for a torque wrench (which not needed for groupset change). Pricey, though. This bikehand one has everything except the missing link pliers for less than half of the cost. This one includes a torque wrench and bearing press for 2/3 of the cost.

Also, KMC recommends against using submersing chain cleaners like the one included.

u/adriftinanmtc · 1 pointr/bicycling

I (and many others I know) ride Gatorskins. They're pretty darn rugged. They can be had for $40 from Amazon.

u/ThreeOneFive · 1 pointr/EveryDayRide

I honestly couldn't tell what was wrong. Just get some new tires, they're pretty cheap.

u/LukeWarmCage · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Procrastination is a disease, and I am sick.

  • 55cm Matte Black Throne Track Lord Frame $285
  • Gold Origin 8 single speed crankset $75 (I know it's cheaper elsewhere)
  • Diatech compe gold finger brake lever $33
  • KMC Gold BMX bicycle chain $23 (It is the 710 I think)
  • Promax P-1 gold stem $70
  • Mavic 700cc Ellipse track fixed gear wheel set/rims (slightly used) $550
  • Cinneli mash bullhorn handlebars $150 (Are they really that expensive? I paid $20 for mine from a bro.)
  • Rock Bro’s Alluminum Alloy Gold Pedals $25
  • Pure fix pro Carbon Fork $200
  • Cateye bike computer $45
  • Cinelli Avaldo Crest bike saddle/seat $43
  • Cinelli handlebar end plugs $6
  • Gator Skin tires $75

    $1580 total, not even trying to bargin shop. Cog, lockring, seatpost (nope, frame comes with), brake and housing and cable, we'll be generous and call it $1700

u/CaptainScrummy · 1 pointr/bicycling

Gatorskins in 25-28's are in the $40-50 range, well worth the money.

u/ironcrotch · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I did the same thing with my mountain bike. Look for Kenda Slicks in the size that was on there. They're good for all weather.

u/killcrash · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

I've got this saddlebag $30, this patch kit (this was really cheap I don't remember how much), a spare tube, this lezyne pump, some park tool tire levers, a 15mm wrench, and a multi tool. I've had cheap versions of everything listed here, the stuff on this list has been pricey but it's what I've upgraded to, and it's all shown it's worth multiple times.

u/FlagBattery · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

vroom vroom maybe these will help?

u/orlyyoudontsay · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I use these, and have not had a single issue, in terms of nuts coming loose or rattling around. The suspension system works pretty well to allow just enough travel to let them move about without rubbing the tires.

u/dachopshoprepairshop · 1 pointr/bikewrench


yea I was looking at park tool kinda pricy at $250 and judging from reviews the tools materials don't seem to be worth the cost. Was looking that this set


u/electricity_here · 1 pointr/bicycling

Get a pair of Continental gatorskins link, 700x25c, and install a thorn resistant tube in each tire.

I've done this for years and have had maybe one flat per 5000 miles (typically valve stem issues, can't say I've ever had a puncture flat). I've actually had to replace the tires due to wear before the tubes in most cases (sidewall wears out over time like any tire, in fact most should be replaced every year).

u/bhaze · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Invest in some Continental GatorSkins.. I commute ~14 miles a day and for the first year or so I was changing tubes once or twice a month (my rear tire had a really thick tube in it which maybe went flat twice out of that year, but my cheap front tire tubes would always seem to go flat; also, I live in a place with not so great of roads and lots of thorny plants.)

I threw down 90 bucks for two gator skin tires and it's been about another year now and I have only had one flat where a thorn managed to puncture through the sidewall, must have got me in a sharp turn or something.

Do yourself a favor and get some!

u/bderw · 3 pointsr/CampingandHiking

For the seams, maybe try an iron, like you see the MYOGers use to shorten inflatable sleeping pads? E.g.

These patch kits are marketed for bike inner tubes, but they’re the same material that Therm-a-Rest gives you as a patch when you buy a NeoAir, they’re just smaller.

u/gfkbdr · 1 pointr/bicycling

It looks like gatorksins are about $10 cheaper at the same size on Amazon. They're significantly lighter because they're more of a training tire vs touring tire. The Vittoria Randonner is even a little cheaper than that. It's heavier than the gatorskin, but lighter than the marathon plus.

u/Rob3E · 4 pointsr/bikewrench

I bought all my tools a piece at a time the first time. The second time I was able to buy them all at once and found it was cheaper to get a full toolkit than buying one at a time. I got the Bikehand kit: and it's worked pretty well so far. I haven't used every tool (and I'm a little fuzzy on what a couple of them are for), but generally, if I need a bike-specific tool, it's in that box. The exceptions being a torque wrench, which I've done without so far, and my wheel-building tools which, apart from the spoke wrenches, I had to buy separately.

However, if that's a lot to spend at once, most tools are not too expensive individually. I was able to buy them as needed without much trouble or (short term) expense. The only issues are that you pay more long term and the first time you have need for a tool, it's not already on hand. Not a big deal if you're patient. I'm not, and I use my bike for transportation, so having the tools before I need them keeps me mobile.

u/802bikeguy_com · 2 pointsr/bicycling

You want 700x32.

u/threetoast · 1 pointr/bicycling

Hm. This patch kit costs $3.50, and has six patches. The round ones (4) are 25mm.

Rubber cement is $5, though there's also a gallon for $30. The cost of sandpaper for these purposes is negligible. A tube is maybe $5, and probably has enough rubber to make 29 2.5" square patches. Or ~63.5 mm. So plenty big enough to cut down into 146 square 25 mm patches. I'm measuring this based on a Specialized 700C x 28/38 tube, so you could probably increase that by buying the biggest tube you can find.

I can't really say anything about how the sticking power of these patches compare, but when you think about a tube's place in the tire, it likely wouldn't matter.

EDIT: changed some patch math

u/JeTJL · 1 pointr/bicycling

You could go for these tires to get a bit of that road bike speed again. I haven't tried it myself, but I plan on putting it on my Electric MTB which I use to get to college.

u/AstroZombie138 · 1 pointr/ebikes

Are you riding off road a lot?

Try the tubes with the goo in them:

Also consider the belt style protectors:

I did both and haven't had a flat tire since. Plus, always ride with a spare tube and CO2 inflator.

u/danielcole · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

I am a die-hard supporter of slime tubes. I had the same tubes for 18 months with the occasional flat. I finally replaced them only because they were so old I was worried they'd just disintegrate one day. Amazon Link

u/mangojizz · 1 pointr/mountainbikes

I was thinking about putting these on it. Do you think these will give me the smoothness I want on pavement and traction on dirt and trails?

u/moobcola · 1 pointr/bicycling

Okay I think I may be calling the different parts by the wrong names. Would this bike work with these wheels?

u/tartled · 1 pointr/bicycling

First, find the tire pressure. This is almost certainly the cause of your issue if you haven't checked it recently.

Also, the pressure range on mountain bike tires is wide, because riders tend to ride low-pressure off-road, and high pressure on road.

One more thing, big knobbly tires will seriously affect your rolling resistance, so if you do decide to change out your tires, you should take a look at some "slicks" -

e.g.: kenda k838

I was thinking about getting something like this to ride my trek wahoo around town.

u/kallisti_gold · 1 pointr/bicycling

You just ordered them in the wrong size. You can get the same fenders in the correct size here: SKS P45 Chromoplastic Fenders on Amazon

u/byikes · 1 pointr/bicycling

I've been using these all summer with no problem.

It's kind of hard to see, but they are slightly triangular so only about 1" contacts the road.

u/Dark_water_ · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Something similar to this? I have no shame in announcing that I'm pretty ignorant to brand quality in this arena.

u/bedbugsugh · 1 pointr/Bedbugs

If the rips are small enough, you might want to use a bike repair kit patch

If they're large enough you might just want to encase it again. Once Cimexa becomes involved, the adhesiveness of your tape will slowly degrade as small particles of it will suck off the adhesive.

The metal studs thing is rough, I happened to have to encase my boxspring a second time for that same reason.