Reddit mentions: The best bike tires

We found 607 Reddit comments discussing the best bike tires. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 366 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

5. panaracer Pasela 27 x 1-1/4 Wire Bead Tire

    Features:
  • Urban/Commuter tire
  • Steel (Wire) bead
  • 27 x 1-1/4 and Black with Amber sidewall
  • Weighing 390 grams
  • Max 95 PSI
panaracer Pasela 27 x 1-1/4 Wire Bead Tire
Specs:
ColorBlack with Amber sidewall
Height0.5 Inches
Length27 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateDecember 2012
Size27x1.25-Inch
Weight0.82 Pounds
Width27 Inches
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13. SCHWALBE Marathon GG RLX Wire Bead Tire (700X25)

Increased durabilityIncludes GreenGuard3mm of thick layerFeatures Anti-aging
SCHWALBE Marathon GG RLX Wire Bead Tire (700X25)
Specs:
ColorBlack/Reflective
Height11.81102361 Inches
Length11.81102361 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateApril 2011
Size700 x 25mm
Weight1.1464037624 pounds
Width11.81102361 Inches
▼ Read Reddit mentions

🎓 Reddit experts on bike tires

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where bike tires are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Bike Tires:

u/Gnascher · 2 pointsr/cycling

> So, as far as the wheel go, you're nsay that we should be fine with whatever aluminum wheel I can find online, since most wheels can handle the weight?

Pretty much. Wheels can sustain hundreds of pounds each, so you're splitting that weight across three, you'll be fine.

Something like this would be fine, but you don't really need to buy new. Any box-section alloy wheel will serve your purposes quite nicely ... survey your local used bike dealers, craigslist, etc...

Be more concerned about the health of the hubs than the weight of the wheels. I'd look for a cup/cone bearing hub. Folks looking to trade a little bit of durability for reduced rolling resistance will often remove one ball bearing and use very light grease, and make sure that the preload on the bearing cone is the minimum that will prevent any lash.

> if the Pro 4 Service Course is only mid-level when it comes to rolling resistance, what's a tire off the top if your head that you think would be a better choice?

The Continental Grand Prix TT is rated #1 in terms of rolling resistance at only 9.9 Watts/tire at 120psi. This blows away the field and everything in its price class. Pretty reasonably priced too. To get the most out of a good low rolling resistance tire, you should couple it with a latex tube. These are slightly more porous than "normal" butyl tubes so you'll need to re-pressure them daily, but they roll significantly better, especially when paired with a very supple tire.

Now, keep in mind that a tire like this is also delicate, so it'd be a good idea to have at least one replacement on hand in case of a sidewall tear or something due to road hazards.

If you'd like to choose a slightly more durable tire (like for testing, etc...) you should get a set of Continental Grand Prix 4000s ii. This is still a great rolling tire, but trades a few watts for durability.

u/PeppermintPig · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Great find. I'd take the wheels off and take the tires off the rims and clean the rims using barkeeper's friend. It's better to do that without the tires on, and then rinse well and wipe dry. You can apply wax to the rims after they are cleaned if you'd like.

There's always a chance there's rust on the inside of the rim if you see some on the outside. I'd not obsess over cleaning out the inside of the rim, but if the rust is bad and flaking I'd maybe want to steel brush that then put the new rim strip in. Yes, you're on the right track with switching out the rim strips. If the rim strips are rubber they'll likely break apart from being old and dried out, so it's good to replace those along with a fresh tube and tire. There are quite a few options in the 27" size. Continental makes a nice touring tire that I think would go good with this as it's more durable than what this bike would have originally come with.

https://www.amazon.com/Continental-Tour-Ride-Urban-Bicycle/dp/B002XYTLMY/

Keep in mind that the hubs may need new grease, or they may be overly tight. You can feel the resistance when turning the axle. It's a worthwhile servicing, but it requires a number of tools including cone wrenches and possible a chain/vise whip to remove the rear cassette.

This is a great project bike and will be an outstanding ride once you take care of the immediate issues. Tires and maybe replacing cables and tuning seem like good first steps. If you do replace the cables and you're OK doing grease work you can take the opportunity to clean and re-grease the bearing cages for the fork when you have the cables removed. You may need wrenches for that.

u/day1patch · 0 pointsr/bicycling

I like it!

As a fellow singlespeed rider I recommend you do yourself the favor and grab a Brooks B17 saddle, it's the best upgrade I ever bought for mine, after a week or so it became just as comfortable as everyone says. If you need new tires I like the Continental GP4000SII, they are fairly expensive but I found they are simply perfect for street and city riding with surprisingly good flat protection.

Much fun in any case, the bike looks like tons of fun :)

u/Sybertron · 1 pointr/Frugal

For me I just grabbed a pair of these off amazon for my bike. http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-K908-Pathfinder-Blackwall-1-95-Inch/dp/B002DX1DGW/ref=pd_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=12SNEATESF200M54YB5A

Does a hell of a lot better on the road, while still leaving me the freedom of jumping on a trail if I like. If you never changed tires before it's super easy to do yourself but you'll need a pair of plastic tire irons (~3$) and a pump. You can forgo the pump by popping into any local shop and asking for air with a smile.

You can always get a cruiser style for around $250 though, which really isn't too bad for a decently comfortable bike.

No matter what I'd hunt on craigslist and compare to shop prices. Sometimes you can find total steals on CL (sometimes literally...) make sure the owner is legit and didnt steal the bike btw. Check the wheels are decently straight, misaligined (non-true) wheels can cost like $50 each. Jump on it and ride it around the block, make sure the brakes feel solid but not overtight, the drivetrain between the pedals feels solid and smooth, and that'is overall the right fit for you (legs should be just short of full extension when pedal is down, and make sure the front handlebars are a good height for your hands). Check out it's stopping distance from a decent speed, but don't go too crazy and damage a bike you don't own. For checking out shifters a lot of cyclists don't know how to keep and maintain theirs, so it can be tricky. The best thing to do is just tack on 20 bucks to the price and get it adjusted at a shop (most will be fine, just need adjusted/cleaned to get to a few gears), but you can see if the shifter is still functional or totally rusted out and check that the cables are still going into the housing smoothly or not and check the same with brake handles and cabling as well. If it's not it may be like 30-40 to repair. Finally check the sprockets for the chain. The chain should ride smoothly in any position, and you wanna check to see that the sprocket (called a cassette) is not too terribly chipped or worn down. Some wear will ride just fine though.

u/RhondaTheHonda · 2 pointsr/bicycling

>...am I better off getting a cheap used road bike to see if I like it...?

​

Honestly, it sounds like you and I are coming from the exact same place. So I'm going to answer this with a conditional yes. That condition is this: I may be biased. I say that because that's what I did and I'm VERY happy with it. Now, I truly do prefer my 37 yo 10-speed over my hybrid any day of the week... but I pretty much only ride on paved roads. I currently ride on these tires but I used to ride on these, which worked well for local hardpack trails and nearby greenways. So it doesn't have to be all or nothing.

​

I checked out the Rochester Criagslist (since you linked to it, I assume that's you area) for some older road bikes, and there are quite a few available, but many of them are $200+. Occasionally you can find one like this one for $20. That's cheap enough that you can get a new seat (the originals were like medieval torture devices), pedals (I like these), brake levers, cables, chain, etc. all for under ~$100. (Of course, I also would do my own servicing of the bottom bracket, which saves the cost of an LBS doing it.)

Then I'd give it two weeks' worth of riding to see how it feels. If you don't like it, then you're out $100 and you post the upgraded and improved bike back on Craigslist for $200-300 like most people seem to. Then turn those profits into upgrades for your hybrid.

If you decide to keep the hybrid, but are uncomfortable with drop bars, you may want to consider butterfly bars. If I hadn't made the move to a road bike, I would have done this with my hybrid just to have more hand position options.

u/AzakasX · 2 pointsr/Velo

No problem! better to ask when you can, i couldn't find a single person to talk to and had to buy my set blindly.

I went with the IRC just based on a recommendation from a shop, Specifically the RBCC version as it's seemed like a good trade off between speed and puncture resistance. I think its a good tire for the fall/summer/spring season, i have an tubeless compatible aluminum wheelset that i'll switch too once the salt starts going down on the road and for that i'm looking into the hutchinson sector and fusion 5 all season. Its a bit of trial and error at this point, which can get expensive but there isn't not enough data or user feedback on what works/doesn't work.

I don't know the difference between Road tubeless and tubeless ready. Both the Sector (Road tubeless) and Fusion 5 (Road Tubeless ready) are on ENVE's approved list. I'd trust either one

I used the diamondback steel core tire levers and they worked well. It looks like IRC has pretty interesting looking levers and hutchinson has levers that you can fill with soapy water to help with installation. All you really need is a lever that has a nice wide/flat hook to prevent damage to the tire bead because without a tube any imperfection in the tire bead can cause a leak. ENVE actually recommends against tire levers all together, but from my experience getting a tire on (At least the IRC formula pros) is impossible.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

u/dsf900 · 5 pointsr/personalfinance

Put aside $500-$1000 for a nice commuter bike and you can extend your reach to 5-10 miles around any public transit stop.

Get a nice mid-level bike and prioritize functionality over gimmicks (those being anything that doesn't contribute from pedaling from point A to point B, like built-in computers and whatnot). You can find plenty of great options in the sub-$500 range, but decide for yourself what you want to spend your money on. I bought a $450 upright/comfort mountain bike hybrid and have put $200-$300 into upgrades, and the result is a very rugged, low maintenance, and capable vehicle.

Worthy upgrades:

  • A luggage rack with one, two, or three panniers/bags can hold a huge volume of stuff. I live a five-minute walk from my grocery store but I like to take my bike anyway because it's annoying to walk home with heavy groceries and jugs of milk. The luggage rack doubles as a splash guard in the rain.

  • Thicker tires meant for commuting/roads will drastically cut down on the number of flats you get. My first year commuting I was probably changing a flat tire once a month (and changing one when you're in a hurry is very frustrating). I switched to a thick inverted tread pattern meant for road use and haven't had a single flat since. I use the tires below, which is designed for mountain bikes and the big inverted treads mean that I still have great control on loose gravel surfaces but all the advantages of a street tire you'd get on a road bike (but still more puncture resistance).

    https://www.amazon.com/Serfas-Drifter-Tire-FPS-2-0-Inch/dp/B000ULU7SY

  • A nice big cushy seat. Anyone who says otherwise is a masochist, and numbing your balls is not going to get you to work any faster.

  • Disc brakes, especially hydraulic, are very helpful in wet and snowy conditions and provide all-around more reliable stopping power. They've saved at least one jogger who ran right in front of me without looking- my front wheel actually touched him, but only very lightly.

  • A good helmet, high visibility jacket, and lights for night riding are all good to have (and may be required in some places).
u/1138311 · 3 pointsr/bicycling

You don't need specific tires, especially starting out. If you're committed to a training program and don't want to flatten out your good tire, a trainer tire like this is something to consider if you've got a spare rear wheel lying around but it's certainly not a necessity.

With a trainer, you lock the rear wheel into the trainer and make contact between your tire and some sort of cylinder that drives a flywheel which provides resistance. With rollers, you put your bike on top of three cylinders and keep it there through balance, patience, attention, and sheer force of will. If you're asking about the difference between rollers and trainers, you don't need rollers. Most training programs take for granted that you're using a trainer and not rollers - especially ones that focus on your power zones (rollers typically don't have any resistance on them - SportCrafters being a notable exception). Rollers are also harder to learn how to use properly and typically significantly more expensive than trainers of similar quality.

If you want a suggestion, go with the CycleOps Magneto trainer - it's about $250, pretty solid, easy to set up, provides progressive resistance (no knobs or levers to fiddle with) and is relatively quiet. If you can find one on Craigslist or something, so much the better. After a couple years you may want to upgrade and you'll probably have a better idea of what you're looking for based on your personal preferences.

u/iheartfirefly · 8 pointsr/cycling

I'm new as well, but I have these tires and love them so far. I shop at amazon.com for tires, but I would recommend you spend another $20 to get tires at your local bike shop if you don't buy other stuff there. It's really good to have a relationship with an LBS...I'd be really lost without it.

There are also some other threads that talk about tires, so you can check that out but I think Gator Skins was high on the list of recommended tires. Solid, don't get flats, not noisy, don't cause too much friction.

Happy Riding!

u/AnontheMaus · 5 pointsr/bicycling

I think you'll find that specs are hard to come by as this isn't a top-end bike of the era, being just another steel-framed semi-racer style of bike that was common at that time, with stem shifters, suicide levers and centre-pull brake calipers, axle mount derailleur and entry-level crankset.

That being said, the bones are there for a nice riding weekend bike or short-hop commuter. Doesn't really justify any sort of significant investment, and I'd recommend just refurbishing it as is without upgrading (although a part of me wants to replace that crankset). Disassemble, clean and then regrease the BB, hubs and headset and fit new ball bearings into the BB, hubs and headset (easy to find, take your old units into a good LBS and they'll provide replacements).

Then throw a new 5/6sp chain on there and all new cables (Jagwire are fine). The only thing I would recommend though, if there's going to be any significant riding, would be to replace the brake pads with KoolStop Continental brake pads which will make a significant difference to your braking.

Finish off with some nice bar tape, job done. You'll also need a 4th hand cable puller to do the brakes properly.

good luck..

edit : forgot to mention tyres, those look pretty crusty. Would suggest throwing a set of Panaracer Pasela on there, good tyre at a reasonable price and comes in gumwall for that retro 70s aesthetic

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/cycling

The 700x25 folding are the best IMO. $35 on amazon.

Continental Ultra Gatorskin Bicycle Tire (700x25, Folding, Black)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OC6CK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cUuRCbZVCMMSV

I recommend gator skins if you’re getting a lot of flats If you’re not getting flats, they’re not really going to help you. May want to consider something with a better ride, better grip, more efficient.

I only ride gatorskins though.

u/suquamish · 1 pointr/bicycling

Assuming it's a 26" junker MTB, and Washington is the state (versus Washington DC)....

I use these tires while there's no snow: Kenda K838s

I'm on my second year of these tires. They do everything I expect them to do, at a cheap enough price. They do great in wet and dry conditions, and work okay with fresh snow.

For fenders, I use these: Planet Bike ATB Fenders

These perform okay, but honestly, I often wish I had purchased the version with the extra mud flaps. They keep most of the crap off me, but during heavy rain those flaps would be great at keeping my shoes clear of the spray from the K838s.

u/BuffHagen · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Happy Birthday, and Happy Zambambo!

I could use new bike tires more than anything in the whole wide world

Hope you're having a WONDERFUL day!!!

u/twoleftpaws · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'm currently using my MTB for the same reasons. This week I finally put a couple of new Kenda 838 tires on it, and immediately noticed a huge difference from my worn out knobby tires. The engineering of them is very cool (they are a lot like motorcycle tires, and have an almost bell-shape for gripping better on turns), they're much smoother and quieter, and the improved grip on turns is really noticeable. $17.34 each on Amazon.

Definitely also get some good padded gloves and a decent helmet! And since you're commuting, I'd also suggest a mini tool, tire levers (for removing tire from rim), pump, patch kit, chain lube, and front/rear lights for low-light riding.

u/geocyclist · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I commuted on a 1994 Stumpjumper for the past few years at school. I used cheaper Kenda 1.95 road tires that are still good after I bought them summer 2011. I also put a rear rack that carried either m-wave panniers for grocery shopping, or a trunk for small stuff.

Lights are a big thing. You can get them cheaply, I've been using a planet bike set for a while. The tail light is either solid or flashing and is very bright, but the headlight leaves something to be desired.

Good luck!

u/_me · 3 pointsr/bicycling

Yes, replace. You can probably get away with the tires but it's best to replace them if you have the cash. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CN6NMS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 are some great ones if your tires are 27"

u/EZ-PEAS · 3 pointsr/askscience

FYI, you should be able to easily find commuter-grade bike tires that are significantly thicker and significantly less prone to puncture.

Most bike tires are sold as performance tires and are designed to be thin. Your bike tires require a significant amount of energy to spin up to speed, and once they're moving fast they store a significant amount of energy. Heavy tires cause effects like increasing stopping distance and difficulty in cornering due to gyroscopic effects. Thus, performance bike tires are designed to be thin, and even things like mountain bike tires are usually a thin layer of rubber with studs for traction. Thin tires are cheaper as well.


Anecdotally, when I bought these tires I went from having about one flat a month (commuting 10 miles a day) to never having another flat again. The inverted tread pattern makes the tire much thicker in most areas while still allowing for a tread that grips on wet and snowy roads. These are regular pneumatic tires in other regards, so they're still relatively light and have good shock absorption.

u/HARSHING_MY_MELLOW · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I've been using these Schwalbe 25s and I love them! Nice smooth ride, extremely durable, not noticeably slower than a 23, great for commuting!

u/corprwhs · 1 pointr/bicycling

Everyone seems to love the Continental Gatorskins. The reviews on Amazon seem to support this.

Edit: Never mind, I think these tires are too narrow to fit your rim safely.

u/nnnnnnnnnnm · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

I don’t think you need anything special.

I usually ride Kenda K838s until it gets really bad and icy. They are a heavy tire, but super cheap and they feel great. I did a 16 mile ride through snow/ice/slush yesterday and never felt out of control.

u/hey_muldoon · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Right on, thanks for the input! I'm looking forward to these gatorskins. It seems amazon has some pretty good deals as well!
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NGT2X2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Ponmtb02M2V3P

u/parsimo2010 · 1 pointr/bicycling

700c (aka ERTO 622) is the most common road bike tire size by quite a bit. Just look for tires marked 700x25, 700c x 25, 700x25c, 700x25 mm- basically you want to see the numbers 700 and 25. The measurements are in mm (unless you see something like 29x1.25, that would be a mountain bike tire measured in inches), and the c just indicates a 622mm bead seat diameter (the same for all 700 size tires). It's unlikely that you will see it, but 622 is the same size. However, 650 or 650b tires won't fit, so keep your numbers straight.

Every bike shop will have appropriate tires, even Wal-Mart has them (but don't get Wal-Mart tires). You can spend anywhere between $20 and $200 for a tire. I'm guessing you want a tire that will last a long time but don't want to pay a ton. Conti Gatorskins are pretty hard to beat for those criteria: https://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-DuraSkin-Folding-Bicycle/dp/B001OC6CK0/

The Conti 4 Seasons are another good option, but usually cost a few bucks more.

u/drewr · 1 pointr/cycling

I put Kenda K838s and Odyssey pedals on a 2002 Specialized Rockhopper. It's not as fast as my road bike, but I can ride all over the city (over curbs, grass, etc), it's really comfortable, and a lot of fun!

http://i.imgur.com/XLRm1DO.jpg

u/NoodleSnekPlissken · 6 pointsr/bikewrench

Your LBS is full of crap. That bike is a good candidate to learn bike mechanics on, being relatively simple. If there's a bike co-op near you, that would be ideal. Start by accumulating parts that will work with your bike, which has 2x5sp friction shifting, DiaCompe centrepull brakes (Schwinn branded) and 27" (630mm) wheels.

Examples of parts that will be appropriate
This SunTour rear derailleur
These SunTour stem shifters
This Izumi 5sp chain
And if you need tyres, these Panaracer Paselas in 27x1 1/4".

Everything else should be easily obtainable, and the brakes should work fine after disassembly , clean and re-lube.

edit : linkages

u/LocalAmazonBot · 1 pointr/NYCbike

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Bicycle-700x23-Folding/dp/B001UL5JNG/ref=sr_1_9


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
|UK|www.amazon.co.uk|Macmillan|
|Spain|www.amazon.es||
|France|www.amazon.fr||
|Germany|www.amazon.de||
|Canada|www.amazon.ca||




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

u/curbstickle · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'm quickly realizing I want less knobby tires for my Raleigh RX 1.0, and instead, want something that will let me get a bit more go than the tires it came with.

Vittoria Cross XG Pro 700x32 - This is what I'm currently riding on. I'm still going to be using my bike as a commuter, for light trails, riding the roads for fun, etc. I just don't feel like I need knobby tires for what I'm doing though.

So I figured I'd go for more of a smooth tire. I'm considering:

u/toddthetoad · 1 pointr/bicycling

You can't put road bike wheels on your mountain bike, but you can switch the tires out to something more like a road bike tire. These will be slicker, so you'll get a little more efficiency on the road, you can usually find them by searching for "hybrid tires".

I used these before, and they worked well for me.

u/D0esANyoneREadTHese · 1 pointr/bikewrench

The tread on those is pretty damn slick, and the grass is on enough of a slope that if it's been raining for more than 3 days my current wheels will spin a few places, plus they look like they'd be deadly in the snow. I'd like something a little more well-rounded, these were recommended from my original link and they seem to be a little more like what I need.

u/Tim_Buk2 · 2 pointsr/ukbike

They look pretty good! Quite a bit lighter than the Marathon Plus (which is their biggest criticism) which is a good thing, but of course a thinner puncture protection.

A Marathon Plus in 700x32c is only £24.48 with free delivery here on Amazon

That is what I would get for only £1.59 more.

u/sns1294 · 1 pointr/MTB

I bought these for $10 each last fall, but it looks like they're a little more now... They work well on pavement, gravel, and very easy trail use.

u/Mr_Ected · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Nice. I haven't used that particular version of Schwalbe Marathon tires, but I'm sure they're great.

These are the ones I use. I like the tread pattern and these are the ones that people say are "bomb-proof". I commute 20 miles a day and I've ridden over all sorts of crap (LOTS of glass on my commute!) and the tires simply don't care. In fact, whenever I run over large glass fields I swear I hear the tires say "lol".

u/peppersnail · 2 pointsr/cycling

I think that's a fine idea. Most of the race team guys run those all the time.

You asked for some extra puncture resistance, which is why I mentioned the 4 seasons.

Note that there are different 4000 tires i think. The ones I have experience with are specifically 4000sii, like these:

Continental Grand Prix 4000 S II Road Clincher, Black, 700 x 23-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8QGTY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PII4xbTXDQZCT

I think they're different from 4000s:

CONTINENTAL Grand Prix 4000s Road Bike Tire Black One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CKH23S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gJI4xbM09VNGT

u/evilweed · 2 pointsr/bicycling

For summer/mixed road use I have some Michellin XCR Dry 26x2.0's on at the moment - they work well on dry trails and don't have ridiculous rolling resistance on the roads. I had a set of kenda small block 8's last year and they worked pretty well to, similar tyre really.

I used to have a old MTB which was my commuting bike and also my pub bike, the one I didn't mind leaving locked up in town of an evening, but then the inevitable happened and someone nicked it. Anyways, I had some kenda slicks on that - if all you're doing is road and maybe the occasional dry, flat trail then slicks are your best bet.

u/Deutsch28 · 1 pointr/bicycling

Thanks everyone for your help. So far I am debating on these tires and this one any opions would be appreciated.

u/HaylonMc · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

The light is an Axiom Lazer 200. The bike I ride to work every day on is a Felt Z85 '13 stock except the saddle and the Conti Gatorskins.

The camera is a Garmin Virb Elite. My cycle computer is a Garmin Edge 510. The ANT+ sensors sync to both the Garmin 510 and the Garmin Virb so it records your routes and all vitals of the ride at the same time.

You CAN however, download the VIRB Edit software from Garmin, use your own video and if you can export your ride data from your head unit, you can sync that to the video and use the same overlays as I did. Mine are just really easy and auto synced since the camera records all that data for me :)

u/wolbscam · 1 pointr/MTB

i use these tires for road/dirt and love em http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088X3VL6/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: doesn't do well on gravel (sinks), but handles slightly rocky paths like a champ

u/Lolor-arros · 1 pointr/bikecommuting

No problem! You can use camelcamelcamel to check Amazon price history, or wach other sites for sales. They get to $30-35ea a few times a year on Amazon. I got one for $30 through REI's Memorial Day sale, and a great deal on panniers and a rack. I'm not that familiar with other retailers, but I'm sure there are at least a few good ones out there.

u/totallyshould · 9 pointsr/bikecommuting

I know that they're a tad heavier and slower, but gatorskins and marathons were the biggest improvement to my commute, probably better than getting a pannier. I was getting weekly flats for a while, and after the upgrade I went months and months between flats.

u/GeminiTitmouse · 2 pointsr/bicycling

The 25 will probably fit, but the rim may be slightly too wide for the bead (though at that bike's level, I doubt it). My suggestion would be to get some good 28s, they're negligibly wider than 25 (and in real terms, may even be the same width, depending on brands), will roll just as fast, with a tad more cushion, and shouldn't roll off of the rim.

To your last question: probably not. Entirely changing out the wheels and modifying the drivetrain in order to fit slightly narrower tires on your hybrid is not worth the effort and expense. Any tire that is narrower and slicker than what you have now will roll faster. I've had good luck on crappy city roads with these

u/louielouayyyyy · 2 pointsr/bicycletouring

I have used Kenda Kwik Trax and Continental Touring Plus. The Kendas were better off road, but the Continentals are more durable. I've heard great things about the Continental Gatorskin

u/Sluisifer · 12 pointsr/bicycling

Hell yeah wider tires.

It depends on the road quality in your area, but even my road bike gets 25mm. I like 28 or 32 (usually 32) on my commuter. Gatorskins that big still roll quite nicely and basically just don't flat at all. I'd say about half of them wear out before they flat, out of half a dozen pairs I've put on my bike and my SO's.

They ride so much more nicely; you feel it in your wrists and ass.

32$ for 32mm folders on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Bicycle-700x28-Beaded/dp/B000NGT2X2

u/rustyburrito · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

Depends what size tire you run, but if you're running 25c tires those are good. I'd recommend 25 or 28c Gatorskin or the 4 Seasons (feel smoother and faster but more expensive) http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Grand-Prix-Season-Road/dp/B000EX6IJK

u/mayowarlord · 0 pointsr/bikecommuting

You can be sure that the faster folks are probably riding a tire closer to 700x25, where the bontigers on that bike are 700x35. Those are quite wide which does mean a fair amount of rolling resistance. The tread adds to that but is minimal on the tires you have. I personally ride 700x25 gatorskins which are road slicks. They aren't grippy and I feel every bump. So it's very much a trade off. I think for you it's worth trying a road slick that a little thinner. The gatorskins come in a ton of sizes 700x28 is still fairly wide but you would see huge returns in speed from them, while getting a bit more resiliency than a 700x25 offers.

Flat bar bikes are not really designed for a leaning forward riding position, as you have noticed. This is probably only really important when there is a headwind. Slipstreaming and general aerodynamics really only matter above 20 mph (that could mean 5 mph headwind while you are going over 15mph).

Also consider clipless pedals and shoes. It's not for everyone, but I can no longer tolerate riding without them. There are a ton of benefits.

u/onandagusthewhite · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Those all look like good bikes. For commuting you'll want to lock out the suspension and depending on the course you take, I suggest getting some slick tires like these. and keep them at the maximum recommended pressure if your course is all paved.

I ride this Giant Revel and I've put over 11,000 kilometers on it.

u/perpetually_poor · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Understood it all! Thanks to you and /u/--Brad, I felt confident selecting this tire. Much obliged!

u/tcal13 · 5 pointsr/bikewrench

I have put close to 2000 miles on these tires and only had to replace the rear this season. Sure they are heavy and don't have the best rolling resistance but I have been flat free for an entire season. Worth every penny in my eyes buubthe folding they are hair lighter. Continental Ultra Gatorskin Bicycle Tire (700x25, Folding, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OC6CK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_q1Ie6iyOT8XmR

u/jgregory17 · 1 pointr/cycling

I converted an older Giant OCR3 into a single speed (not a fixie). It has been extremely durable and surviving NYC just fine. Get sturdy wheels, I have mavic Aksium, and good tires. I use these - http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Wire-Bead-Road/dp/B000NGT2VY

u/FinalScore824 · 1 pointr/cycling

Tube + Trainer tire. Be advised should you purchase the trainer tire. It's a real tight fit. The Amazon page has a nice exploded view.

https://www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Zaffiro-Home-Trainer-Fold/dp/B007IEHWDO

u/brians_ · 2 pointsr/cycling

I just put these on my Trek 2.3 and I really like them. They're also pretty reasonably priced.

http://www.amazon.com/Continental-GatorSkin-DuraSkin-Folding-Tire/dp/B00BCU87AW

u/csisac · 2 pointsr/bicycling

I'll keep it short.

For your tubes: http://www.slime.com/

For tires: Amazon US Link Or similar, as mentioned.

Hope these help you!

u/professor-i-borg · 1 pointr/bicycling

They're a puncture resistant road tire. I used to bike a lot at night, and the bike lanes in my area have horrible potholes and seemingly randomly spaced manhole covers. Because of this I would be fixing inner tubes like twice a week. Then I got those gatorskins, and I've yet to fix a puncture. I don't know if they're the best, and they do add a bit of weight to the bike, but they are definitely durable.

u/borkthenork · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I have Gatorskin tires and I love them! I pump them all the way to to 100-120 PSI and I noticed the difference right away. A coworker had the same set for two and a half years; he rides about 200 miles a week.

https://www.amazon.com/Continental-C1010429-P-GatorSkin-DuraSkin-Tire/dp/B00BCU87AW

u/riorio88 · 21 pointsr/bikewrench

Depending on the make/model, factory tires can be absolute garbage. For your own safety, replace the tire. When I worked as a bike salesman/mechanic, I quickly learned that one of the best things to invest in is your tires. Do yourself a favor and, if you can afford it, by yourself something with a kevlar lining. When I lived in the States, I commuted every day and went on longer rides 2-3 days a week, but could manage close to a year on Continental Gatorskins.

u/DavidPx · 2 pointsr/bikecommuting

I had those tires on my old bike, a $300 hybrid. They worked great.

u/trav16 · 1 pointr/bicycling

~1,800 amazon reviews say otherwise:

https://www.amazon.com/Continental-GatorskinDuraSkin-Bicycle-700x28-Beaded/dp/B000NGT2X2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485711643&sr=8-1&keywords=gatorskins

never had an issue with them and theyve always treated me well. definitely not racing tires for sure, but ive never flatted one. what suggest you instead of gatorskins?!

u/atlasMuutaras · 1 pointr/bicycling

Thanks.

While I've got you, what's the difference between these two tires.

wire bead

other?

What does "wire bead" mean and why do/don't I want it?

u/pkulak · 3 pointsr/bikecommuting

Sounds kinda cool, but I installed a pair of these almost two years ago and haven't gotten a single flat since:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NNR6SI/

I used to get a flat a month. And they ride just like any other tire.

u/adriftinanmtc · 1 pointr/bicycling

I (and many others I know) ride Gatorskins. They're pretty darn rugged. They can be had for $40 from Amazon.

u/ThreeOneFive · 1 pointr/EveryDayRide

I honestly couldn't tell what was wrong. Just get some new tires, they're pretty cheap.

u/LukeWarmCage · 3 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Procrastination is a disease, and I am sick.


  • 55cm Matte Black Throne Track Lord Frame $285
  • Gold Origin 8 single speed crankset $75 (I know it's cheaper elsewhere)
  • Diatech compe gold finger brake lever $33
  • KMC Gold BMX bicycle chain $23 (It is the 710 I think)
  • Promax P-1 gold stem $70
  • Mavic 700cc Ellipse track fixed gear wheel set/rims (slightly used) $550
  • Cinneli mash bullhorn handlebars $150 (Are they really that expensive? I paid $20 for mine from a bro.)
  • Rock Bro’s Alluminum Alloy Gold Pedals $25
  • Pure fix pro Carbon Fork $200
  • Cateye bike computer $45
  • Cinelli Avaldo Crest bike saddle/seat $43
  • Cinelli handlebar end plugs $6
  • Gator Skin tires $75

    $1580 total, not even trying to bargin shop. Cog, lockring, seatpost (nope, frame comes with), brake and housing and cable, we'll be generous and call it $1700

    Bargain!
u/riscuit · 1 pointr/chibike

For a road bike I currently run the conti grand prix 4 seasons.

u/CaptainScrummy · 1 pointr/bicycling

Gatorskins in 25-28's are in the $40-50 range, well worth the money.

u/ironcrotch · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I did the same thing with my mountain bike. Look for Kenda Slicks in the size that was on there. They're good for all weather.

http://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Bicycle-Blackwall-26-Inch-1-95-Inch/dp/B002DX1DWG/

u/FlagBattery · 1 pointr/FixedGearBicycle

vroom vroom maybe these will help?

u/_crucial_ · 8 pointsr/milwaukee

I've been rolling on a set of 700x38 Schwalbe Marathons for 4 years and they're still in great shape. (Maybe it's a sign I need to ride more)

I know I'm going to jinx myself, but I haven't had a flat since buying them.

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-Marathon-Wire-Bead-700X25/dp/B004T02X8O

u/electricity_here · 1 pointr/bicycling

Get a pair of Continental gatorskins link, 700x25c, and install a thorn resistant tube in each tire.

I've done this for years and have had maybe one flat per 5000 miles (typically valve stem issues, can't say I've ever had a puncture flat). I've actually had to replace the tires due to wear before the tubes in most cases (sidewall wears out over time like any tire, in fact most should be replaced every year).

u/bhaze · 2 pointsr/bicycling

Invest in some Continental GatorSkins.. I commute ~14 miles a day and for the first year or so I was changing tubes once or twice a month (my rear tire had a really thick tube in it which maybe went flat twice out of that year, but my cheap front tire tubes would always seem to go flat; also, I live in a place with not so great of roads and lots of thorny plants.)

I threw down 90 bucks for two gator skin tires and it's been about another year now and I have only had one flat where a thorn managed to puncture through the sidewall, must have got me in a sharp turn or something.

Do yourself a favor and get some! http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Gatorskin-Bicycle-700x25-Beaded/dp/B001OI2LZY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1343178651&sr=8-1&keywords=gatorskin

u/gfkbdr · 1 pointr/bicycling

It looks like gatorksins are about $10 cheaper at the same size on Amazon. They're significantly lighter because they're more of a training tire vs touring tire. The Vittoria Randonner is even a little cheaper than that. It's heavier than the gatorskin, but lighter than the marathon plus.

u/verystrangeusername · 1 pointr/bikewrench

Thanks for the quick response and the education. So I think this should work:

u/bdl89 · 2 pointsr/cycling

So, just to confirm, this should be a solid option for me? Slightly over $100 CAD, but so well reviewed it appears it is the right choice...

https://www.amazon.ca/Schwalbe-Marathon-Wire-Bead-700X32mm/dp/B004T02X8O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523996049&sr=8-1&keywords=schwalbe%2Bmarathon&th=1&psc=1

u/802bikeguy_com · 2 pointsr/bicycling

You want 700x32.

u/JeTJL · 1 pointr/bicycling

You could go for these tires to get a bit of that road bike speed again. I haven't tried it myself, but I plan on putting it on my Electric MTB which I use to get to college.

u/ChiFxxd · 6 pointsr/FixedGearBicycle

Gatorskins on sale for $25 at Amazon... Gatorskins

u/kbrosnan · 2 pointsr/whichbike

Considering it needs some work and tlc 100-125. You are looking at a minimum of 30 for new tires and tubes, up to about 100 if you go with a tire like gatorskins

Without it being in a ridable condition you are taking a risk that there are other problems.

u/mangojizz · 1 pointr/mountainbikes

I was thinking about putting these on it. Do you think these will give me the smoothness I want on pavement and traction on dirt and trails?


https://www.amazon.com/Kenda-Pathfinder-Bicycle-Blackwall-1-95-Inch/dp/B002DX1DGW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478472498&sr=8-2&keywords=kenda+pathfinder

u/moobcola · 1 pointr/bicycling

Okay I think I may be calling the different parts by the wrong names. Would this bike work with these wheels?

u/tartled · 1 pointr/bicycling

First, find the tire pressure. This is almost certainly the cause of your issue if you haven't checked it recently.

Also, the pressure range on mountain bike tires is wide, because riders tend to ride low-pressure off-road, and high pressure on road.

One more thing, big knobbly tires will seriously affect your rolling resistance, so if you do decide to change out your tires, you should take a look at some "slicks" -

e.g.: kenda k838

I was thinking about getting something like this to ride my trek wahoo around town.

u/byikes · 1 pointr/bicycling

I've been using these all summer with no problem.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002DX1DWG/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

It's kind of hard to see, but they are slightly triangular so only about 1" contacts the road.