Reddit mentions: The best binder accessories

I was a first year elementary teacher last August! I bought a TON of stuff on Amazon. I pulled up all of my old orders...here are some of my favorites that I use daily in my classroom. These are not affiliate links, I just added links for quick wishlist adding for you :)

OH, and as far as things like books, manipulatives, school supplies...WAIT and see what you are provided with, first. Once I got into my classroom, I had a TON of things waiting for me like rulers, glue, a globe...things I probably would have bought, had I had all summer to shop (I got hired a week before school started). I was surprised to learn that my school didn't provide me with supplies like staples or paper clips (I had these things when I student taught elsewhere), so I had to run out and get those. Oh, and an actual stapler and tape dispenser! I forgot about those and when I needed those in the first week, I made a trip to Staples that night!

magnetic hooks- for the whiteboard...I hang bathroom passes, keys, etc. on them https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G52NMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

magnetic clips- I clip SO MUCH stuff to my whiteboard, so these are awesome https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3WLKH4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

magnetic pen cup- for whiteboard markers and eraser, keeps them out of reach for my first graders! This one is PERFECT because the eraser fits on the one side, and expos on the other. I added little cardboard dividers on the inside so the markers don't fall over (only a problem if you don't have it full of markers) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QKXHR52/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

magnetic storage pocket- my classroom has a lot of magnetic surfaces, so I love the magnetic stuff...I keep my pointers in here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0034ITE16/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

magnetic holders- these babies are STRONG! I keep supplies in these for math that we use during our daily morning math routines (math manipulatives and stuff). https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F9JKW9U/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got a few posters like these for tracking reading points, etc. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1483832767/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

tension rods- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070ODWLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I use one under my sink to hang spray bottles (febreeze, non-hazardous cleaner, etc.) and one between the air conditioner unit and my wall to hang anchor charts, which I have clipped onto hangers with clips like these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017WYF0IS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Seriously, hang your anchor charts. Find a way to do it and you'll LOVE it, I promise! So much better than laying them flat and having to sort through them when you need a certain one.

sheet protectors- Need cheap whiteboards? Pop a white piece of paper inside and voila. I use 99 cent store 4-pack markers, which have held up surprisingly well, for the kids (the tips also don't seem to "squish" in like the expos, so bonus!) If you're doing something like a math worksheet or handwriting practice, you can insert printed paper for kids to write on...the possibilities are endless here! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00006IC89/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

pocket charts- I teach first, so it's pocket chart central over here, but even older grades could utilize this awesome schedule pocket chart...plus it's black, I love that it's not blue or red! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/148381467X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I actually bought a second one of these after I got the first because I liked it so much. Oh, and my black calendar pocket chart...love this, too! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1483814696/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

stickers- Kids love stickers. End of story. I bought a ton in bulk. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FF2T88C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fan for my desk - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HI7950/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Small and powerful!

Birthday prizes and certificates, like these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NNNWSQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUF49UO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

my favorite thing, a laminator! I laminate EVERYTHING...charts, nametags, word wall words, game boards, anything. There are different sizes of laminators that you can buy, I just have the standard one that fits normal sized sheets of paper, and it's served me very well! I also buy the refill pouches on Amazon because they are WAY cheaper than at Staples https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012UEXTQ/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is optional, but sticky hands- these make GREAT prizes and the kids love them more than any other prize or incentive I've offered (I teach first grade). I get these ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002F4MGO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also wanted to add...since I have primary, I wanted to make them "spots" to sit on for carpet time. A carpet wasn't provided to me (you know, the Lakeshore one with colored squares), so I went cheap and bought a few feet of carpet tape from sitspots.com. They have cute actual spots, too, but I was cheap and bought the tape, cut it into 3x3" squares, and slapped those on the classroom carpet. They're holding up great (I'll be able to reuse them next year for sure) and my custodian loves them because it's not actual adhesive tape on the carpet. I just got a new student, so I had to rearrange the spots...they peel up and stick back down PERFECTLY (they're velcro). If you have the need for something like this, I HIGHLY recommend the velcro tape stuff!

OH, and when it came to book boxes and book bins, 99 cent store, dollar tree, big lots are your friends! If you have a little more cash, I got some from Target in the dollar section, too. But, they only have theirs during June I believe (they're super strong, $3 a pop but I'll be able to reuse all of mine next year).

BEST pencil sharpener around is the one from classroomfriendlysupplies.com. It is amazing. PERFECT points every time, and it even gets through those cheap novelty wrapped pencils. I love it. My kids broke the electric one I bought, so I got this one and now just use it myself, although older kids would be able to learn it (I subbed in a 3rd grade class that had one and they used it just fine with some training).

I LOVE folders for things like an unfinished work folder, homework folder, writing folder, etc. The cheapest place I found was Staples...over summer they were selling boxes of 25 for $4. I got a ton of them in different colors. Made color coding easy!

Let me know if you have any questions or need any help navigating your first year. I'm a month away from being done with my first year, and it's still very fresh in my mind how stressful, fun, aggravating, exciting, exhausting, confusing, and rewarding it all is!

Late comment but Yo I'm from Brissy & I can let you know what I did

I was in the Kickstarter and while I waited for the game to finally ship I spent ages devouring information from Gambler's Chest and Add-Ons tabs here.

For sleeves, I originally went for the official KD sleeves which were good, but availability for them had pretty much been once-off, so once the expansions came I was shit outta luck. I then went for Swan Sleeves, which are $3.95 USD per 100 Premium (pretty good price for really good quality, albeit shipping is a bit hefty and will change depending on number of packs ordered). 57x90mm sleeves are a perfect fit, but if out of stock then the 60x90mm are also a good fit. I just had a look, and both are currently out of stock, but just keep them in mind, 'cause AFAIK no one else stocks premium 57x90mm and they (imo) are undoubtedly the best fit for the cards.

As someone who's never sleeved before, it takes waay longer than you think it will, haha.

For gear cards, I personally went with the binder option; it's really convenient to be able to organise them like this. This was just using a 3-ring binder from Officeworks and a couple of these coin pages from Amazon.

For the making of the miniatures, while you can make do with a kitchen knife and some nail clippers for removing pieces from sprues, you'll make your life a lot easier investing in an X-acto knife and sprue cutters. By FAR the cheapest knife is from Bunnings, and at $2.50 it is of fantastic quality and comes with 3 extra blades. Sprue cutters you'll have to look around; best I could find was a cheap pair from Amazon that are fine. Finally, plastic cement is an absolute Must imo. Can't recommend it enough - instead of acting like an adhesive like superglue, it essentially melts the parts together and creates a very strong bond. Tamiya is pretty good and works great, but feel free to have a read around forums; people will have preferences for various brands, regular, thin, extra thin, etc. The making of miniatures is daunting at first, but it's not as hard as you might think (although you're like to make a mistake or two at first, but dw about it lol) and resources from https://build.kingdomdeath.com/, vibrantlantern.com/ and forum threads on https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/55690/kingdom-death-monster should see you through most of them :)

That's pretty much it. The storing or shelving of miniatures is up to you, as is whether or not a box insert is necessary.

Hope at least a couple of the things I said were useful. Have fun!

Archivist here. I never attempted any restoration but we did store thousands of old photos and Ive had the pleasure of handling a few really old ones myself. The oldest ive had was from 1867 of a pioneer family in rural Canada. This photo was stored within a family bible for well over a century and stood up fairly well considering. Photos are fairly tough in terms of the material that theyre made from; it is exposure to the sun and humidity that damage it the worst.


/u/bhender explains virtually how we flatten curled photos. If you can at all, use soft gloves. This protects from the moisture of your hands, as well as allowing your hands to essentially slide across the photo without damaging it. Future preservationists who would love these photos will thank you for it.


Your goal when handling the document is to touch it as little as possible; pretend it is about to crumble into ashes and exaggerate your caution. It would be a good idea to flatten the photo before you scan it so see if you can get a larger book to slide the photo in. It could sometimes take days for the picture to flatten properly; from here see if you can get a plastic sheet protector that you can put into a binder. These are what we at the archives stored the photos in for ease of access. Others we put in letter envelopes. It would be preferable if you could scan the photos inside the plastic sleeve as to minimize the risk of damaging the photos. Once they are digitized, find a cool dark place to store them in. I keep my own personal WWII documents and photos in a safe I have, but im a little over the top. We also have a fair bit of WWII German documents including my grandmothers passport identifying her as a non-Jewish German; we have a box with cloth in the bottom and the document on top and another layer of cloth followed by a book etc. This has been the way its been stored since the 1960's and they look virtually as good as they day they were given.


We never attempted restoration of metals but we did occasionally clean some items we had like brass and steel. Usually warm water to wipe down and white vinegar to clean it. We had third party opinions on the restoration of other objects and if it was even worthwhile. Sometimes attempted restoration will strip everything away and end up ruining the item.


In any event, I would scan every picture and page, as well take multiple photographs of each item. Store them as best you can and then only use the digital copies. If you do get them copied, you should throw then on reddit somewhere; I would very much like to see them! Good luck and have fun.

So, true story, I spent almost a decade in heritage digitization (ie. preserving, stabilizing, and then digitizing old documents).

As others have mentioned here, the most important thing you can do ASAP is to get a digital copy of the document. Unless you have an insane amount of fine detail on the page, even your smart phone camera should be fine (an iPhone, for example, should be able to capture the document at rough ~170 pixels per inch which isn't amazing, but good enough for a just-in-case), although if you have a DSLR with a decent lens, you'll probably get better results. I wouldn't get too caught up on perfect lighting either, but try to make sure it's well lit. If you are concerned about getting a really high quality representation of the document, I'd recommend taking 4-12 pictures of the document, focused on different areas, and then using a program like Hugin which is 100% free to combine the individual photos into one very high quality image. Hugin isn't extremely difficult, but it's not extremely easy either so if you go that route make sure to follow the tutorials, like this one.

Additionally, I'd highly recommend capturing both sides of the document, even if nothing appears to be on the other side.

For preserving until you can get to a professional, the thing to focus on is that acid is your enemy and humidity is very particular. The first thing I'd do is pick up something like this: https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Newspaper-Polypropylene-Sleeves-50-Sleeves/dp/B00IDCZ6DS/

Regardless of what you get, you're looking for the keywords "Acid-free" and "Archival" (ie. polyester, polypropylene, or polyethylene). Make sure to avoid anything made from PVC ( polyvinylchloride), which will damage the document.

On top of that, I'd then move the now sleeved document into something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Gaylord-Archival%C2%AE-Newspaper-Preservation-Box/dp/B00ZDHEN1M/. Your goal with the box is to protect the document from any sunlight, etc.

Finally, for where to store them? No attics, garages, sheds, or basements! Or any environment with extreme temperature shifts, humidity changes, etc. Personally, I'd move the box to the top of an interior closet (ie. not against a house wall).

That being said, I professionally was asked all of the time what the best long-term way to store a document was and the answer I think most people expected was digitally and online. The truth is, paper documents outperform anything digital on longevity by orders of magnitude. Your document might look pretty beat up, but if you take some sensible steps to preserve it, it's got hundreds of years of life left in it.

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High five!!! mine just came in today as well. I'm not going to read it as i have the e-book version, so its going to be on the shelf right away.

Oh don't worry, I coughtorrentcough all the anime i watch. Buying all these merchandise is my way of supporting the companies making the shows i like.

If you've seen Shirobako, then you'll know what the animation/production notes are like. That show was the main reason i started collecting those things to begin with.

Yea, it really is hard to justify these purchases especially with me. All the books i have are sealed upon receiving. They are unread, maybe a couple of flips here and there but other wise, nothing that will break/deteriorate the binding (except for my first set of Bakuman manga).

For the BDs, they are more practical. I'd watch them once a while whenever i feel like it. Other than that, the bonuses are looked at for the first time then sealed away within the box.

These figurines are always kept in the best condition possible, as far as me installing airtight strips on the openings of the display case to prevent most of the dust from coming in. Dusted once to twice a month.

i really just like collecting them, once a while i ask myself what i'm going to do once i phase out of this collecting of mine. But i never got an answer to that, guess i'll figure it out once i'm close/at that point. At other times i feel like i'm wasting money as well, i have a small space in my room and i keep buying more stuff (very limited space left for figurines, but have 15 more preordered; No more space on my shelf to hold more BDs w/o taking over other spaces). This is purely just a self-satisfying hobby which i am enjoying at the moment.

All i can tell you is, if you want to do it you're free to start collecting. BUT, unlike me, limit yourself, for example X amount of dollars a month, or only buying things from series you REALLY like, etc. Know when to stop, budget your money, just because you can buy something doesn't mean you can afford it.

And yes, the books are sealed. I'm using polypropylene/acid-free bags to store them. I learned the lesson the hard way when i noticed my first set of Bakuman manga pages turn yellowish, and i didn't want that to happen again.

Pocket Page Protectors + Perram's Spellbook + A sweet-ass binder = Your very own spell book.

The idea is to use wet-erase markers to mark down which spells you've got prepped. Simply erase the check mark when you cast the spell.

It's a bit of a pain to cut out, alphabetize, and order your spells by level, but at the end of the project you'll have a nifty bit of gamer bling as well as a useful organizational tool.

I also recommend sticking a standard one-sheet "list of adventuring spells" and "list of in-town spells" into the front pocket of your binder. It can save a lot of time if you're riffing on a default rather than inventing a new spell selection every day. That was my method for my own wizard, and it worked a treat.

Good luck with your grimoire, and happy gaming.

Get a really nice binder for your stage bible. Pay a little more. You'll be happy when halfway through tech the rings aren't completely mis-alligned and have pages falling out.

Get actual plastic tab dividers for the scenes and such, rather than post-its.

I also highly recommend those little round hole reinforcement stickers that you put on all the page holes. Yes, you will hate your life applying them to all three holes on every page, but you will thank yourself when you don't accidentally tear out the page while flipping angrily through the script after your actor just missed two pages of dialog. A slightly cheaper option is to use scotch tape as shown here.

Also, a small reading light that can clip onto the back of the binder. That way you don't have to fumble with a flashlight backstage. Rechargables are better so you don't have to worry about finding batteries.

Get a first aid kit. You may think this isn't your job, but in reality it will be. Standard kit should be fine. I'd highly recommend adding a few heat packs and ace bandages. Being a dance-heavy show, you want to be prepared for rolled ankles. Also tampons. Great for unexpected emergencies, as well as the best possible thing for bloody noses caused by a stray elbow.

Be reasonable, but be strict. Make your actors fear you. /s

But for real, make sure they know just how much shit they're in if the fuck around with the prop table. Deal with attendance issues individually, not in front of the group. Make it clear that cast drama/romance issues do not belong onstage, backstage, or really anywhere in proximity to the stage.

I'd highly recommend setting up a private cast/crew FB group and have a cast only, crew only, and combined group chat for quick communication. Do not ever rely on the assumption that anyone got your email. It's frustrating, I know, but your life will be easier if you make that assumption.

Finally, make yourself available as a go-between between for cast/crew members to other cast/crew members. Actors can be afraid to directly confront a director or other actor to discuss important issues. Crew can not want to directly order an actor around or tell a director why what they want isn't logical.

You are the facilitator. You make the whole thing happen. You are the one that actually gets the performance on the stage. You don't get a curtain call, but that's okay. Have fun. Break a leg.

Thats a good start and the binders are nice. I actually have a few myself but one thing personally is the side loading vs top. For long term storage or final storage I think they are good. Trying to remove them from a side load feature just doesnt work for me. So for frequent removal purpose I use the standard Ultra Pro 9 pocket with a standard 3 ring binder from target or walmart.

Those sleves are good but after using a few thousand its going to be costly....I settled on these Last purchase was 1600. These are snug fitting although there have been some that are a little tighter which can slightly bend the card. Overall great for the price and they work well with those binders or plain sleeves.

Im sure you will change your mind a few times as the collection grows.

I have been having the same issue trying to figure out how I want to store all my dials and tiles. I have noticed that if you want to do binders that the small base tiles fit into the old 1.0 Mini upgrade card sized pages, the medium fit into the Normal card sized pages and the large bases fit into the 4 Slot sheets. In terms of dials I have been reading that people have been using These sheets. I have been on the fence about using binders for these, but I already have a box of 100 mini upgrade sheets from 1.0 that I still have like 80% of because I bought it before 2.0 was announced thinking I would need them. I was considering doing card and coin boxes for them. I know Coin boxes are popular as well for dials and small bases, but for the medium and large I don't really have a solution to those right now. I know I can fit the large into Card boxes, but I don't know if there is a better solution for medium bases.

Damn nice haul.

On the note of the single issues I would recommend getting a short box (they fit pretty well in closets for storage too) to store single issues and by the looks of it a single box will last you a long time. They hold about 100 comics give or take depending the bags and boards you use. The boxes are pretty cheap too, you can get them on Amazon or a LCS for about $8.

Give me a few minutes and I can edit in some links for you about storing them and what not.

Edit: So here are some helpful links to understanding how to store your single issues

• Types of bags and boards
  
• Where to keep your boxes
  
  I'm a big fan of BCW, they make really high quality boxes and what not. These are all the things I use in my collection.
  
  
• Short boxs (I couldn't find just one, but I bet a LCS has them for sale in singles)
  
• Dividers
  
• Mylite Bags
  
• Boards to match
  
  Here are some shots of my collection:
  
  
• I use a mail organizer to store my single issues by series. I keep them here until I bag and board them. You'll see some are already bagged - those are my crappy bags that I don't actually use in my boxes I just had them around. The pile on the top left there is a discard pile; I end up donating them once it gets too big.
  
• Here are my boxes. 2 of the boxes are just the Flash haha but it is also in alphabetical order nonetheless.
  
• Here's a peek inside (These comics haven't been moved into those nicer boards I linked yet)
  
  Bonus screen shot of my excel spreadsheet I use to organize all this stuff.
  
  Hope this helped a little!

I want to second your decision to go with this BCW comics box. I have not used specifically this protective carry box, but I absolutely can vouch for the quality of most BCW products. I think you can see for yourself how well this box works for precisely what you need to do when visiting C2E2 as you read the reviews for this product on Amazon. I use BCW top loaders, and I will usually only buy and use BCW top loaders. They're an excellent quality. I recommend their products, and if I was going to do what you want to do with comics at C2E2 I would own and carry this box too.

I also wanted to point out 2 more things at Amazon. You can go Full Protection Mode and get the BCW white boards to back all of your comics, both the ones you own and the ones you will by. 100 BCW comic boards are under $13.

https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Supplies-Current-Comic-Boards/dp/B003ZUK2J6/ref=pd_sim_229_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003ZUK2J6&pd_rd_r=KXQVDJ3WFYF65XA13E70&pd_rd_w=8IirJ&pd_rd_wg=N5NyU&refRID=KXQVDJ3WFYF65XA13E70&th=1

And you can bag and board using the add-on priced Ultra-Pro bags of 100 for $7.50

https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Resealable-Current-Size-Comic/dp/B002QGAF8S/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002QGAF8S&pd_rd_r=8S001ABXKAVTBDDC33ZY&pd_rd_w=61NwS&pd_rd_wg=ftqzB&psc=1&refRID=8S001ABXKAVTBDDC33ZY

Or stick with BCW comic bags of 100 for $10

https://www.amazon.com/Current-Re-Sealable-Comic-Book-Count/dp/B002MVQ7W0/ref=pd_sim_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002MVQ7W0&pd_rd_r=P61W1QQ1XW6K01D8QFWG&pd_rd_w=2W6Bo&pd_rd_wg=GULhs&psc=1&refRID=P61W1QQ1XW6K01D8QFWG

It's an investment right now. But with your box for transporting comics, combined with the bagging and boarding for protection during travel or storage at home, you will be set for quite a while.

I used to use a shooter's bag that I picked up at a gun show. Here is my old setup. I got it for around $30, but ultimately the zipper on the top pouch failed, so I don't use it anymore. One of the best things that I've found for keeping my atomizers organized are shotgun shell pouches. You can get them in different sizes, for like 12 or 24. I use a Condor EMT Pouch to keep my wire and other small parts together, and I use a Niji Rollup for my rebuilding tools. Here it is in action. Best of luck in your search for organization.

Bags and boards for floppies is usually the way to go for most people. My local comic shop bags and boards them for free so I haven't had to buy any, but they're cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Ultra-PRO-Comic-Bags-Current-Modern/dp/B001TXBKYW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417725500&sr=8-2&keywords=comic+bags

http://www.amazon.com/Current-Comic-Book-Backing-Boards/dp/B003ZUK2J6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417725522&sr=8-1&keywords=comic+boards

After that most people put the comics in a short box or a long box like this. http://www.amazon.com/Collectible-Comic-Cardboard-Storage-Comics/dp/B0037J9FGQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417725538&sr=8-1&keywords=comic+long+box

I personally just use an old Amazon box since it's small and perfect size for my few floppies.

Hope this helped.

Anchor the hand/forearm you are using to paint with on the surface the hand you are painting is resting on. This is really helpful for me since my hands shake a little bit. Though this gives you less range of motion for the hand you are painting with, it also makes it harder to goof up.

Another trick I've seen folks use on here, which only really works if your nails aren't too wide, are the notebook paper hole reinforcement stickers - those little white ones that look like cheerios. I've seen people use them to get a straight line for half moon manis and to create a straight edge for french tips. Painters tape is also a good option for this method.

I use the aforementioned 50-tube holder from Amazon as it's cheaper and larger than the Goulet's. They stack on top of each other in a drawer, which is a good thing, as I'm on my third rack.

And I used to try to cut up little bits of avery labels to put swabs on the top, but then I discovered paper hole reinforcers, and they fit on top of the vials perfectly. Here's what two of my racks look like next to my sample journal: http://i.imgur.com/K39IM2Y.jpg

Ah, Should be a pretty easy fix then. Get yourself some binder paper repair stickers (like so http://www.amazon.com/Charles-Leonard-Reinforcements-Self-Adhesive-Labels/dp/B00342VCK8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1335407980&sr=8-2 ) and add them onto the stem, over the threads, until the stem is straight when fully screwed on. I have done this on 5 or so estate pipes that I have and they all smoke perfectly after the fix.

Edit: also, a more risky fix is to apply heat to the base of the threads (where it anchors into the stem) and rotating the threads until they are properly aligned.. I've never tried this one, but I've been told it works quite well if you have a stead hand and are extremely careful. I'd recommend the first procedure though, as long as you don't mind having those stickers on your stem.

I think the best way to go about it (although time consuming) is getting page protectors (something like This!) and tossing them in a binder. No hole punching, no re gluing, and you can situate the chapters/pages however you like, and even use dividers to mark chapters/classes/etc.

But as others have said, if you haven't had the book long, contact WoTC, they have a (supposedly) great customer service department and will just require a few pictures of the book and will likely send you another free of charge. Sometimes they ask for the old one back, sometimes they don't.

I use different sheets for each card type (Ship, Squad & Objective, Upgrades).
http://www.amazon.com/20-Twenty-Pages-4-Pocket-Postcards/dp/B003AOG42Q - Works perfectly for Ship Cards. A little extra space so sleeved cards will fit in.
http://www.amazon.com/BCW-9-Pocket-Trading-Card-Pages/dp/B003GDZ7HE/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1451522478&sr=1-3&keywords=pro+9-pocket+page is a pretty standard trading card sleeve, space for sleeves, works well.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETN7N4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 - it's a little hard to see on the image, but the space for each card is a bit truncated compared to the standard TCG page protector so the mini cards fit a bit nicer.

The only thing I'd change is a black-backed page, but I can't find many of those in non-traditional (ie not trading card sized) sizes.

That's a good idea, I found these on amazon, and they seem like they would fit NES manuals nicely.

A bit off topic, but seeing someone who uses erases/rewrites stuff on their character sheet makes me cringe now after I swapped to the below setup.

Brother, buy yourself some cardstock and some sheet protectors and either wet-erase markers with some spray OR dry-erase markers.

Write everything really nice and neat, only write on the sheet when it's a more permanent use, and everything that can change during a session is written on the sheet protector with the marker. I prefer the wet-erase because I can pack up the character sheet between sessions and nothing gets erased, but that's really personal preference.

Invest in some Mylite2's Standard size and some Fullbacks for your more expensive books and half-backs for your less expensive issues.

In addition, I would get a couple short boxes (you can get them online or at an LCS. BCW, CGC, etc. many companies make them). Finally if you get some real expensive issues that you want to display, invest in some top loaders.

Everything I linked will fit modern and silver age books. I made the mistake of getting 'current' size top loaders and mylites and many of my books won't fit, so if you stick with what I linked you will be good.

Also if you decide to start collecting key issues (first appearances and such) and want to keep those separate, magazine files are great for that (I get mine from Target).

I haven't figured out how to post pictures yet, but here is the link to the coin sleeves. They are perfect for small bases and dials. highly recommend them!

https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Vinyl-Pocket-Pages-Thumb/dp/B002ZUI8PM/ref=pd_yo_rr_bia_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=59JCZGT0TMYWWFJ4P1JM

I use these to store my Kemet power tiles and they work perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Pocket-Album-Binder-Pages/dp/B003GMTTLA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474330015&sr=8-2&keywords=coin+pocket+pages

You just need to cut off a column, and they fit perfectly folded in the game box. When it comes to game time, just take it out and plop it on the table, you can even pass around the tiles.

I personally only use them for signed albums just so the signatures don’t come off, but I can understand wanting to use them for other reasons like keeping the dust off of them.

I bought these ones so just in case I get some albums that are bigger, but it probably won’t fit big ones like some NCT or Pentagon albums due to its size.
comic book bags

Neat! I was thinking you could use the middle of these guys but it looks like they keep the middles at the factory. :)

Pop Protector Case for Funko - 4" Inch Pop! Vinyl Figures (20 Pack of EcoTEK Pop Protectors) Strong, Crystal Clear, Heavy Duty Acid Free w/ Protective Film & Locking Tab https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079KCQ2FD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jg8QDb5NE376D

$16.88 as of pasting this :)

A friend suggested sealing them since they fade and get yellowish over time. They mentioned a newspaper holder and looked around and found this. Another friend already framed his with Walmart frames, really nice and cheap too.

I use one of these for my pens and I find it a great solution. It should fit Goulet-style ink sample bottles, too.

I use these for ship dials: http://amzn.com/B002ZUI8PM They fit perfectly though I don't think the plastic dial upgrades would fit. There isn't must wiggle room.

I also have one of these in the folder section of the binder for all the other tokens: http://amzn.com/B000E39T50

edit I keep the plastic ship bases in with my battlefoam and maneuver templates in the back most folder up against the hard binder side to prevent them from getting bent.

UV is the ultra violet spectrum of light.

http://www.eyehortilux.com/images/visiblelightspectrum.jpg

It has destructive properties to damn near everything (paper, paint, humans, plastics, etc...) and its the main component in light that degrades comic books.

In order to avoid having your comics bleached over time by the UV that bounces around the room (assuming you have outside windows in the room), you need to put the comics into a bag or case that blocks the UV.

Mylites are the best brand of that type of product:

https://www.amazon.com/Mylites-Comic-Book-Standard-Size/dp/B00GQENKEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473485737&sr=8-1&keywords=mylite2

You also want to use acid free boards:

https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Current-Comic-Backing-Boards/dp/B003ZUK2J6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473485763&sr=8-2&keywords=comic+book+boards

And you want to make sure that you choose BOTH your bags and boards by the era/size of your comics. Believe it or not, comics have been printed in various sizes over the years, with various eras of comics like "the silver era" or "the gold era" being different sizes.

Here is more info on that:

http://www.wikihow.com/Size-Your-Comic-Books-for-Proper-Storage

If you have any other questions, let em rip.

I store all my stuff in mylar bags and longboxes. Comics on display go in either mylite4 covers, or they are encased/slabbed and graded by CGC. CGC's cases are UV blocking just like a Mylite2 or Mylite4.

Here is a test done with CGC cases, one year of sun exposure:

http://boards.collectors-society.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=4409343

You can tell the comic looks perfect still.

If you leave a comic in a normal bag in the sun for a year, its going to be super bleached.

Thanks, I'm using Comic Toploaders. Pretty sure these are them.

Binders

Ultra Pro 9 pocket 3 ring binder sleeves

Ultra Pro 4 pocket 3 ring binder sleeves

Honestly card organization can be as cheap or expensive as you want, but these are what I've spent a majority of my money on in the last year 6 boxes of the 100 per box 9 up sleeves, 2 of the 25 per box 4 up sleeves and no less than 20 binders. Finally finished card organization project I started two years ago. Just need to print the cover pages/spine inserts.

Best belated birthday present to myself/husband ever!

looks good! One recommendation i have (not necessary but useful) is a 3 hole punch binder and sleeves for character sheets. Also here's a really useful Reference Guide.

a bag and board should be fine but if you want extra protection for your more valuable books you could look into BCW showcases or toploders

I'm not sure what other people use, but I use those circle stickers you find in like school supplies that are for re-enforcing the holes in paper. like these. I just bought mine at a drug store.

Found this online, plan on making some binders of my own for my collection. All my cards are in a tin in my closet, and I want some more protection. Not sure if you wanted to get some binders, but just in case, these will help. ;)

Really? Some places sell them really cheap. Like, 100 for $12 I think. Actually, I just found some on Amazon like that.

I use these toploaders for my over-sized commander cards. It's not a sleeve, but since you don't need to shuffle them, it works fine, and it helps with curling.

http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Hole-Reinforcements-White-1000/dp/B00006IBUZ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451971448&sr=8-1&keywords=Page+reinforcement+sticker

I'm pretty sure Tor uses something similar to these, could only find 1000 packs in case you have a lot of shots you need to practice.

The 4-card pages may be a good option. Something like these.

Depending on how often you plan to do it, you can start with the basics:

A pair of gloves (disposable or professional) will keep the dirt off your hands, as CRH can be very dirty.

Cloth bags (or other strong bags) can be used to dump the coins you plan to return to the bank.

For storing your coins, you can go one of three main ways: You can place them in an album like this one, you can put them in a coin folder like this one, or you can place them in 2x2 cardboard coin protectors, then place them in 2x2 plastic sheets to display or put them in 2x2 cardboard protector storage boxes, like these.

---

Those are some good supplies to start off with, you can also consult the side bar of the subreddit for more potential supplies :)

Anything I really care about gets Mylite 2's and Full-Backs...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GQENKEM/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KA26P6Q/

For a little less than $1 a book I know I have top rate protection.

The BCW heavy vinyl 2" coin pocket sheets work really well, the polypropylene is not stuff enough to keep them from falling out, but the heavy vinyl does a good job keeping them in. I use these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002ZUI8PM/

Ultra-pro 12 slot pages. I stack up duplicates in the same slot, works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ETN7N4

Yes sadly only the original legends when the game first launched were made.

Here’s the official funko pop page for them.

Wraith exclusive

Mirage exclusive

rest of the collection

due to the expense, here are protectors

Paper Assholes
(SFW...actually, they’re perfect for office work not just safe!)

Here's my current set up. (Amazon links for everything)

The binder I'm using I have cards on one side, with the dials and base tokens on the other side. My one and only issue with it is that I'm nearly at capacity. Functionally it's great.

Small cards

Big cards

Dials, and base tokens

Movable tabs (I cut them in half)

Edit: [Here's a picture of how I have it set up] (http://i.imgur.com/wdvYQM7.jpg)

I bought these

AmazonBasics Clear Sheet Protectors -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3ROXI6?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

And picked up a 1 inch 3 ring binder for $2.49 at OfficeMax.

And came up with my solution.

https://imgur.com/a/whgetIr/

I have a 3-ring binder with sheet protectors. Makes it each to keep multipage patterns in one sleeve. I also acquired some sticky tab markers so I could label each category of pattern. These markers do in fact stick to the sheet protector so you could label each item or just label each section.

edit: Instead of a binder, you could also try three prong folders with the sheet protectors and section them by type. Could save space and would be slightly less clunky.

Thank you!

Inner sleeve: Tiny Epic Kingdom Sleeves(88x125mm)-50 Premium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0187T406K

Top loader: BCW 1-TLCH-3.5X5 3½X5 - Topload... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003C23PFU

What you can do as an alternative to the official toploader binder is buy pages with roughly 3" x 4" pockets like these. Binder size would be a bit smaller though at 6" x 8" since the pages are smaller than your typical 9 pocket normal card pages. I've tried these and toploaders fit snugly and securely. Ultra pro has binder pages at more normal dimensions of roughly 8x11 but the pockets may not be as snug.

[Here are the sleeves I'm looking at.](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H7F0RY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_FOpDDb36Q1CA3]( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H7F0RY/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_FOpDDb36Q1CA3)

A helpful suggestion or request can't hurt.

Yep. Sorry, it slipped my mind.

They are:

Ultra Pro Platinum Series, 12 pocket page, "protects stickers up to 2-1/4" by 2-1/2". (57mm x 63mm)."

https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Pro-Pocket-Stickers-Pages/dp/B000ETN7N4/

This is the brand that I found to work well. They don't have a plastic coating, so they probably aren't very good for their intended purpose, but they take ink well!

Here is what I use for the sheets:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H7F0RY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For binder I use this:
https://smile.amazon.com/Ultimate-Guard-Binder-Xenoskin-Sleeves/dp/B01C6TH16S/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ultimate+guard+binder&qid=1561991616&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-2-catcorr

Works extremely well!

dont get the shoes. get kleenex boxes. you dont need the shoes.

stickies for when i do my nails

She can GET IT


Thanks for the contest.

BCW makes an 8 pocket Multi size that fits tarot cards nicely.
https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Pro-8-Pocket-Multiple-Pockets/dp/B01IUG071W/

Or if you don't want those extra pockets, BCW and Ultra Pro makes 3.5 x 5 in 4 pocket pages.
https://www.amazon.com/20-Twenty-Pages-4-Pocket-Postcards/dp/B003AOG42Q
https://www.amazon.com/Ultra-Pro-Twenty-4-Pocket-pockets/dp/B005H7F0RY

I ended up just taking a 3 ring binder and buying card pages for it, ultra pro has some nice ones on amazon

I don't have a tablet or anything of the like, so what I do is buy those plastic sheet protectors. I'll print out my patterns and just put it in the cover. You can either use post-it notes or dry erase markers on them and just remove it later. If you buy a binder to go with it, you can just throw em there and have all your patterns organized!

You can try top-loading sleeves like those for baseball cards only bigger.

If you're gonna be keeping them in the bag and board, I recommend these. They're a tad bid bigger to accommodate the bag and board.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004C53XR6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1449504981&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=comic+book+top+loader&dpPl=1&dpID=41JDVlrsEqL&ref=plSrch

Sophomore year of college, I spent about $50 on Amazon, guaranteeing I'd never have to buy supplies ever again (and some will probably be inherited by my grandchildren). I bought:

• hole reinforcements
  
• engineering paper
  
• 0.3mm drafting pencil
  
• tons of refills
  
• multi-coloured pens (for taking notes)
  
• metric fucktons of staples
  
  I'm not a college student any more, but I still use engineering paper whenever I can. It's just so much cleaner.

Top loaders come in all sizes. I think the photocards are 3.1" x 4.7"? If so this should do the trick.

I used these, they work well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003C23PFU?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Amazon is! Binder and Sheets

I toss immediately. if i do feel the need to keep something important, i keep them in this.... https://www.amazon.com/Avery-Economy-Clear-Protectors-75091/dp/B00006IC89/

Define cheap.

I use these


Ultra Pro 25 (Twenty Five Pages) 4-Pocket Coupon Pages (3.5 X 5 inches, top load pockets) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H7F0RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AtE1DbAKGJVJ3

Something like this but without the hole punches?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IC89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Ht8Myb1ZAJKRY

Five star flex binder that contains hero lab printouts, stored in sheet protectors; wet erase markers to scrawl temporary notes, modifiers, damage, and other stuff stuff on the protectors with.

A notecard with daily spells and abilities, along with a pencil and good eraser.

Extra 3x5 notecards and a permanent black marker, to use for writing down buffs, ad-hoc compass roses, table tents, etc.

Cut up dice necklaces to drop wall effects, track open doors, etc.

Spell templates and elevators

Modeling eraser to mold stuff on the fly.

Glass beads for invisible PCs.

Dice bag full of dice, mini, and a couple iconic minis for people who forget.

Scrap paper and extra pens and pencils.

It all fits in the flex binder, dice bag, and project case. I then put it all in a normal backpack. There is room to spare for a big water bottle and/or a sandwich.

Ecotek from amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Pop-Protector-Case-Funko-Protectors/dp/B079KCQ2FD

I use these page protectors from amazon and keep them in a binder. I've cut down the spine for the multi-page ones.

It's definitely a little awkward for the half-height cycle books.

Binder sheets store 9x per page, so youd have to put two in a slot.

Amazon carries them

I use these: https://www.amazon.ca/Ultra-Pro-Silver-Pocket-Protectors/dp/B0007XXFGG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ultra+pro&qid=1565725767&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Haven't used them myself but https://www.amazon.com/BCW-Pocket-Album-Binder-Pages/dp/B003GMTTLA/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=2x2+coin+binder+pages&qid=1565286073&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Hole reinforcers are available if it becomes unbearable.

Sheet protectors. I've used these for character sheets, too, to store the character sheets, logs, and any certificates for a given character.

Probably because that's what they're called

Just get a regular 3-ring binder and some of these:
https://www.amazon.com/BCW-4-Pocket-Photo-3-5-Inch-5-25-Inch/dp/B003AOG42Q

Or get some of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Avery-Self-Adhesive-Polyvinyl-Reinforcements-05720/dp/B00006IBUZ

paper hole reinforcement labels, aka "donuts"... you can stick them on the cloth so you can reposition balls into the exact same places when doing drills or experiments.

The exact ones we ordered

I don't think I've actually seen pages that load from opposite sides before, but here are some.

A bunch of these in a three-ring binder.

These

If you're talking about the plastics - I just keep them with their ships. I have some extras (from having bought colored sets) that I keep in a drawer.

If you mean the cardboards I put the large cardboard in these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AOG42Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the small cardboards in these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018OM5MGC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm using a 3 ring binder and storing the scenario sheets in these plastic sleeves:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3ROXI6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i would say get a bunch of 2x2 holders of varying size and some of these. Im not an expert in coin storage, so maybe this isnt the best way to store them, but it will work

I keep a binder for certain things:

• Printed copies of my recipes
  
• Instructions for things I find myself looking up regularly (e.g. how to pressure can yeast starters)
  
• Manuals for my various pieces of brewing gear
  
• Score sheets from past competitions
  
  I don't keep my brew notes in there. I keep those in BeerSmith's Brew Log in the "Notes" area of each brew. I've also just purchased the Brew Journal from Kegs & Code (http://kegscode.com/brew-journal) because I missed the tangible notes and flipping through past brews in a notebook. When I first started brewing, I used The Homebrew Journal from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0760345899).
  
  One thing to consider if you develop a binder is to get plastic sheet protectors (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T3ROXI6). You'll appreciate having them when you open your binder with wet and dirty brewing hands.

> Try not to overdo the containers. FlyLady has a take on containers that seems to mirror my experience -- that they work until you need something, then they get knocked over or opened up and spew mess everywhere.

Binders! Binders with clear sheet protectors (forgot the name of these)

My mom used to do this and I'm adopting it. I'd buy the sheet protectors first, organize everything and sort them. Then you can buy the right size binders.

I guess you could simply get a big binder and use dividers/separators in them to sort/categorize.

I hate spirals.... two strategies:

I have used the plastic sheet protectors to organize loose leaf pages. I create a coversheet and slide the related content behind the coversheet. Holds up well in a binder over time.

Other way I've done it is in a [accordion folder] (https://www.amazon.com/Smead-Organizer-Pockets-Closure-70902/dp/B0085IQ05I/ref=sr_1_4?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1491389428&sr=1-4&keywords=accordion+folder) that had many slots. Then one slot per topic.

They might not have them on pre-order right now. I doubt they'll choose not to have some sort of binder. If they do decide not to release one, you could get a 4 ring binder and a pack of 100 sleeves. Then you'll have enough space for almost 2 of every card and they'll all be in one binder. That's what I'm thinking of possibly doing.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ultra-Pro-Silver-Pocket-Trading/dp/B0007XXFGG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478288423&sr=8-3&keywords=trading+card+sleeves

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Herlitz-max-file-Nature-Double-Lever-Arch/dp/B000S5JQGQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1478288416&sr=8-7&keywords=4+ring+binder

This is a very common problem with these controllers. A lot of people suggest opening the controller and putting these things on each direction to keep that from happening.

That’s one of the reasons I had to use those stupid hole protector stickers.

Pic for reference

I think you have too many books. Just pick a fundamental you want to study and practice it. reference all your books for that specific thing you're working on skipping chapters if you have too. I have experimented with different art containers and I have found that if I use a art bag stuff gets lost in the bag and unused and forgot about. Pencils of different types tend to break off all the tips and stuff gets dirty in the bag from loose graphite and the broken tip problem. I like using a niji roll. https://www.amazon.com/Yasutomo-Niji-Roll-Multi-purpose-Pouch/dp/B0027A5A9M/ It keeps everything in view when open so I know what I have. It keeps the point on all my pencils from banging around and breaking. It doesn't collect dust like a bag does. For paper and stuff for storage I use a Ikea Alex drawer unit. It looks much nicer and more durable than those plastic walmart containers.