I'm 26 and 200 (with around 30 pounds of tackle, anchor, fishfinder, battery, etc. on board as well) with what I'd like to think is a pretty good sense of balance. I added a stand assist strap, and I can stand up in calm water to stretch and do some spotting, but anything more than that gets pretty darn sketchy.

I have yet to take mine into saltwater, but I absolutely don't see why not. It's actually 12'6", and I feel that the effective beam is much closer to 28" instead of the advertised 30". All things considered, it's a pretty quick boat for its class.

This is my mounting setup for my Garmin 5DV. I got a smokin' deal on it, which came in handy because RAM mounts are surprisingly expensive. Worth every penny so far though. I think the lighter-duty (and slightly shorter, which was the killer for me) RAM mount for a 4DV or other, vertical-screen fishfinder is close to half the price of the one I got though. All in all, a pretty easy install, just be wary of hidden costs such as transducer arm, battery, mounts, jerry-rigging hardware, etc. I suppose the good news is that I could move this setup to damn near any kayak (or even real boat) I want in the future with very minimal fuss.

Definitely cartoppable with the help of some load assist devices. Grab one of these and consider using a set of saddles that have rollers. I'm personally using a pair of Yakima Mako Saddles and a pair of Yakima Hully Rollers on my 2015 Subaru Impreza hatchback. If you're planning on using those sketchy foam blocks.... well..... good luck?

One important point to consider is that the stock seat is total dogshit. I bought one of these and added a 1.5" ass-pad underneath it and I gained worlds of comfort while still retaining a relatively low, efficient paddling position. I'm of the opinion that all of the fancy lawn chair setups found in higher-end kayaks, while supremely comfortable, aren't high enough to really provide much of a vision advantage while at the same time add a serious detriment to your paddling efficiency. To be fair, when I learned to kayak as a kid, it was through whitewater, so my ideas surrounding paddling are probably somewhat biased.

I seed and sawed on getting this model boat, among others, for months while I worked up funds for it, and then suddenly my friend offered to sell me his, barely used and with a fiberglass shaft paddle of correct length, for $250, leaving me plenty of funds to modify it to my liking.

Update:

The bottom is a hard line keel for both the Pungo and the Loon. The Loon has sloping sides, whereas the Pungo is hard-chined. I wouldn't think there would be much performance difference, but the stability of the Pungo could be a bit better. Don't have pics of that.

I have had the Loon out on the water like 5 times now. It handled the first time with a bit of chop pretty well. Then three of the times, in placid water, it was so sleek it was like a dream. The other time it was in moderate chop, it did feel stable, but I didn't venture too far from shore.

It tracks very well, turns on what to me feels like a dime. My friend had a LL Bean Manatee (10') and I easily went in circles around it in terms of speed and tracking.
Here are two other pics for reference on the water. I like the side view because it shows how low in the water it sits. I believe this is good for flat-water kayaking since it reduces the wind drag. It moderately protects against water coming over the bow, but I'm sure a touring or sea kayak would be better in that department: http://imgur.com/a/N617B

Finally, it is soooo comfortable, at least compared with numerous rental boats I've tried over the years. I could sit in it for hours. Width and length are great to stretch out, and the seat is awesome. I'd recommend getting a high back PFD. I literally tried 5 of them with the kayak, and the two best for me were: Astral http://amzn.to/29rVAMB and Onyx: http://amzn.to/2920ZrR (the one I bought)

The yeti is nice, i have never used one. Some say it is overpriced, but you have to admit that it is a nice simple all in one thing - battery, usb,300 watt pure sine wave inverter, and can charge from 120 vac,12vdc,or solar.

It is what it is, 33Ah battery so if that is not enough then what? If you are going to charge from 12 (like your car) you will need hours and hours. Now if you are willing to put an isolator on you van/car? you could charge faster than a cigarette lighter socket but then you are adding complexity for just using occasionally. So if you can live with the capacity then it's a neat package.

The prices for the big yeti are over $1.4K ? I think that is 100Ah of battery. I think that would get you through a weekend with enough spare energy as to not have to ration. idk And this would just be charged at home or if you find 120vac while you are away.

I will think it over more as it is late for me. But what I have done before is to use a battery box and a separate inverter. The box and battery(battery is bad now) I owned from the trolling motor set up for my canoe. It is not a clean set up but can be used in pieces as you like. So if you have separate pieces and your battery runs low you just hook up the inverter to the van, and don't run out of fun times.

here are some amazon links - non referrals so take a look and seeif you get what I mean.

https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG Nice thing here is it will hold any battery up to group 24 or 27

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXMB127-Battery-Replacement-Caddy-Golf/dp/B00BDV7OO0 I just picked a 100Ah battery at random

https://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL2601-Elite-400W-Inverter/dp/B007Y4BL1C

https://www.amazon.com/VMAXTANKS-Maintainer-Automobile-Batteries-maintain/dp/B00IZV91Q0/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IZV91Q0&pd_rd_r=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905&pd_rd_w=uLdL1&pd_rd_wg=0Vigf&psc=1&refRID=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905 Any GOOD battery charger will do.

So like $500, but you now own a nice box, battery, charger, and inverter. So play with the idea and see if it would fit your style. Just an option.

Here is what some guy did with $1000 and you could scale this to your needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=offgcMwuTGw

Sorry for the mess of a post.

Good luck and have fun. Be sure to let the sub know what you come up with.

We love our popup, it's a 2001 Flagstaff that is only a couple years old to us, but was well cared for by the previous owners. I live up north so keeping food out of it so mice aren't lured in in the winter is a big priority up here.

Really there isn't much to keeping them nice. If you are able to keep it stored out of the weather when you're not camping with it, that will really help it hold up longer. If you ever have to pack up while the canvas is damp or wet be sure to pop it back up to dry fully when you get home. I would also use something like 303 protectant to cover the solid vinyl portions of the tent if you have that material. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B000XBCURW

We pretty much never eat in ours and never cook in ours. It's so much easier to cook and eat outside and it keeps food from getting on cushions and prevents crumbs from luring in mice like I stated above.

It sounds like you plan on camping mostly with power based on your AC requirement, if you will be at more primitive sites every be sure you have a good battery. If you were serious about getting the most out of your battery you'd want to switch to LED lights and install dual 6v batteries.

http://popupportal.com is a useful resource.

It just so happened that a lot of Eureka stuff was on sale at the time I was shopping, so I look like something of a fanboy.

• [Eureka Apex 3XT Tent] (http://www.amazon.com/Eureka-Apex-3XT-Tent-sleeps/dp/B0043HM5RC) - It's a three man tent, but I'm a big guy and I wanted extra room. Camping off the bike makes the slightly heavier weight from a 3 man tent not a big deal, it compresses down pretty small anyway. Gives me plenty of room to bring all my gear inside the tent at night, and if the wife decides to go camp with me there will be room for us both without any problem.
  
  
• [Eureka Sandstone 45F Rectangular Sleeping Bag] (http://www.amazon.com/Eureka-Sandstone-45-Degree-Rectangular-Sleeping/dp/B006MQAWS6) - Synthetic bag, one for me and one for my wife. Nothing really fancy about it other than that they are mate-able to each other we want to get extra snuggle-y on a trip.
  
  
• [Eureka Camp Pillow] (http://www.amazon.com/Eureka-2641201-Camp-Pillow/dp/B004BZX7PK) - Some people say use a stuff sack with your dirty clothes, I say I don't want to smell funky multiple day old swamp ass while I'm trying to sleep. I guess I could use clean clothes, but meh..
  
  
• [Exped SynMat Basic 7] (http://www.amazon.com/Exped-SynMat-Sleeping-Terracotta-Long/dp/B0018MC976) - Air mattress. My theory is that if you don't get at least some restful sleep, you will be miserable the next day. Packs down very small, provides comfort and insulation from the ground.
  
  
• [Sea to Summit eVent 30L Compression Dry Sack] (http://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-eVent-Compression-Medium/dp/B000NQQ5A0) - I have multiples of this item. I pack the tent, rainfly and groundcover all in one, and it all compresses down to around 12x6 inches. Sleeping bag goes into another, compresses down to about 12x12 inches.
  
  
• [Kwik Tek Dry Pak 70L Waterproof Duffel Bag] (http://www.amazon.com/DP-D1BK-Waterproof-Duffel-Black-Large/dp/B00644OLLU) - Cooking gear, sleeping equipment, and other stuff I don't put in the panniers goes in here, and then the bag is strapped across the pillion seat with RocStraps. If it's a two up trip, the 52L Givi comes off the back of the bike, and the 70L Dry Pak is replaced by a 110L Dry Pak so there is enough room to stash the wife's gear as well.
  
  
• [Sea to Summit DryLite Towel] (http://www.amazon.com/Sea-to-Summit-DryLite-Towel/dp/B000OPPAQK) - Small and Extra Small. Great for drying off after getting caught in the rain, or after a shower at the campsite. They dry fast too.
  
  
• [Jetboil Zip] (http://www.amazon.com/Jetboil-Zip-Cooking-System-Black/dp/B004UVPDUM) cooking system - Boils 16oz of water in about 2.5 minutes. My breakfast is instant oatmeal and instant coffee/hot chocolate, so this takes care of both very quickly. The Jetboil also makes it super easy to make things like instant mashed potatoes for dinner.
  
  
• [Trangia 27-5] (http://www.trangia.se/english/2913.trangia_stoves.html) Ultralight Aluminium Cookset with add on 2.5L pot - Alcohol stove set with frying pan, two 1L pots and one 2.5 pot. For dinner I can cook up a steak, some soup or stew, pasta/rice sides (think of stuff like [this] (http://www.bearcreekcountrykitchens.com/index.php) and [this] (http://www.knorr.com/product/category/245876/pasta-sides). I don't worry about packing and carrying an entire trip's worth of food, I stop at a grocery store, and get a couple days worth of stuff. If I want fresh meat, I swing by a store immediately before hitting the campsite. Arrive, set up, cook.
  
  
• 12oz plastic cups - I carry a couple of [these] (http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___60048).
  
  
• Spork - Fork, spoon, and something resembling a knife [all in one] (http://www.campmor.com/outdoor/gear/Product___87620)
  
  
• Leatherman Blast - bring a multitool, you will be glad you did.
  
  
• A headlamp and a good flashlight are critical. I like [these small Black Diamond orbit lanterns] (http://www.rei.com/product/807910/black-diamond-orbit-lantern) too.
  

My list would look something like this...

Kenwood TS-480SAT - $849.95

Satisfies the portable requirement without the QRP-ness. Easily connects to your computer for digital modes, negating the need to purchase a Signalink.

Antennas are a tricky subject. I'd steer clear of the 40m hamstick, it's going to be quite inefficient and 40m isn't a particularly great daytime band, I'd be looking at 20m if you plan on doing most of your hamming during the daylit hours. Maybe get something like an end fed matchbox wire or OCF dipole, easy to deploy, transport, and tune across multiple bands with a built in rig tuner. A full size MFJ 20m vertical telescoping whip is also a good choice and is going to be a great deal more efficient than a 40m hamstick. Don't skimp here, buy the most antenna you can afford within your setup limitations.

Cost - Variable ~$40 - $100+.

What size of battery are you looking for? A small SLA type to transport in a backpack for hiking for maybe an hour or two of operation, or a big automotive type battery to transport to an operation site in a vehicle and last all day? Every single car type battery sold in this country is made by 1 of 3 companies -Delphi, Exide and Johnson Controls, just with a different retailers label slapped on it, so buy the cheapest deep cycle battery you can find that meets your size and amp hour requirements. Costco is a great choice if you have a membership or Wal-Mart because they cycle through their inventory quickly and you won't be buying a battery that's been sitting on a shelf for a year.

A nice big group 31 battery will run you ~ $100. Cheaper if you go smaller.

I'd recommend a nice battery box like this to put it in. - $50

A decent battery charger will set you back about $40. Maybe a bit cheaper if you shop around a bit. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they actually have a pretty good battery charger that they put on sale frequently for 25 bucks or so.

We're up to $1040 without antenna. That leaves you $250 to play with for an antenna and any other incidentals like coax cable, connectors, antenna mounts and the like.

Also, unless you plan on running off the battery all the time, you haven't budgeted for a power supply for fixed station operation. A 100W rig will need a 20A power supply and that will set you back about $100 for something that isn't trash.

Do you already have a power supply for fixed operation? If no, you'll be running off the battery all the time. A 20A power supply that isn't garbage will set you back about $100.

1.

Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.

One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).

I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals

I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals

I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.

2.

Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.

I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker

That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)

Fuse Kit

In-line Fuse Holder

---

In general, I think my system will basically look like this:

Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V

Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V

Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits

Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.

Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.

 

What do you think of this proposed setup?

I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.

But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!

Defer to your further research as to whether it is OK to fix it up or get a new one. It does look a bit worn out from my perspective, but if it holds you and it is leak free, might be worthwhile. My advice would be to stick close to shore though :)

What you have is a type of "touring" kayak, which will be fine for a local lake. If you're looking for something with a larger opening, get a recreational kayak instead. Types are reviewed here: https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/kayak.html

Definitely a good idea if you have a pool to watch some Youtube videos and try out techniques.

As for paddle, I can recommend https://www.rei.com/product/766595/bending-branches-whisper-paddle

For PFD (personal flotation device), I recommend https://www.amazon.com/MoveVent-Dynamic-Paddle-Sports-Orange/dp/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491528039&sr=8-1&keywords=onyx+life+jacket

Also, you'll need to think about how to transport it. For instance, last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:

foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks
straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft
tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Modified boating stuff:

A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.

Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.

Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.

Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.

Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.

I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.

Links to materials:

• Plano 2-3700: amazon ~$9.08
  
• Feldherr FS010B: amazon (5pcs) ~$15.99, amazon (10pcs) ~$16.99
  
  

  About the container:
  

  
  Using a fishing stowaway tackle box and some foam, it's really easy to make a neat little container to hold all your TTRPG stuff. You can stack more or less layers of foam inside divisions to make it easier to reach (the potions have 3 layers) or to make more room for bigger things (the d20s only have 1 layer). Half-divisions hold standard 1-inch base miniatures perfectly (the fairy lady is a metal mini printed off Hero Forge).
  
  The tackle box used is one of the larger sizes Plano has to offer, but if you don't have as much stuff to stash, the Plano Prolatch 3600 or the Plano Prolatch 3500 are smaller options that also work great. These sizes are better for players who want a case like this or DMs with nothing else but a couple dice sets and some minis.
  
  Keep in mind that there will be a lot of foam left over. The 2-3700 only required two or three sheets of foam to triple-stack the entire container, and I got myself a 10-pack. If you need to get rid of the extra foam, getting a couple 3500's for your players is a nice gift, considering they only run about $4 each. I got a four-pack of the 2-3700's since most of my players also DM, so hopefully that uses up the rest of the 10-pack of foam.

This is the fan I used for mine, it's borderline leaf blower status and fits 4" flexible dryer exhaust tube perfectly. Draws 2.5A. Highly recommended.

Attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9XLCzbD3X657Y

Using a float switch is also a good idea, so you don't run it dry and burn out your pump.

The more holes you can drill in the bucket (without compromising its integrity and leaving a reasonable volume for water at the bottom) the better. More surface area means more evaporation.

I had issues with mine leaking the first year. I found I had much better luck cutting the outer pad so that it's pushed against the inside of the bucket. I put the vinyl tube hoop on top of the inner pad, and tied it with thread so it can't move. It doesn't leak at all using this method, as the outer pad only gets damp by soaking up water from the saturated inner pad. And it works better, because there is no gap between the pad and the bucket for air to go through, it has to all flow through the pads.


http://imgur.com/a/0SyOy

Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).

Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.

If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.


As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.

A few more things:


Camco 40043 TastePURE RV/Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Camco RV Brass Inline Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are fun but not a requirement:

MPOWERD Luci Solar String Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYPDPKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

MPOWERD 1004-005-001-002 Luci Lux... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JSCMPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Again not a necessity but I like it, keeps your water house pointed down not out

The Everything Candida Diet Book:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD03K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Love this because depending on where you are, it’s really nice to have an extra water source for washing things and keeping dust down on the road

2wayz All Metal Body Garden Hose Splitter. Newly Upgraded (2017): 100% Secured, Bolted & Threaded. Easy Grip, Smooth Long Handles y Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MS0HK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOhxDb2J6NVSQ

I'm giving you US links just to let you know what I'm talking about but you shouldn't have any trouble finding them elsewhere.

• Dry Bags - Very handy to have along and it wouldn't hurt to have more than one. I keep one stocked and ready to go at all times.
  
• Onyx PFD - PFD that wears like a belt and stays out of the way until you need it.
  
• Waterproof Phone Pouch - Cheap and handy
  
• First Aid Kit - I keep one in my dry bags but have never had to use it. You never know though.
  
• Survival Whistle - Because you never know.
  
• Cooler - If it's a long outing I like to have a soft cooler that I can strap down.
  
• Headlamp - Just another one of those you never know items that takes up hardly any space in a dry bag. Alternatively you could get a bunch of those cheap LED bracelets.
  
• Water Bottle - I swear the Gatorade squeeze bottle is the best water bottle ever made. I always have one with me when I'm paddling.

The only thing I can help with is floor mats. Get WeatherTech floor mats. They fit the best and hold a ton of water/mud/whatever. Use some 303 Protectant on them and they will look brand new for a very long time.

303 protectant is also excellent for your dash and any interior plastic. It's like sunscreen for your interior and won't dry out your dash like armor all or other petroleum based protectants. Also doesn't leave a super glossy finish like armor all, that just attracts dust right after you put it on.

Toyota Yaris hatchback owner here.

Inspired by an item I saw on Amazon, my DIY solution was to make a set of loops to slide into the rear hatch door. I did so using nothing more than some 1" nylon webbing, some old synthetic wine corks, and a sewing machine -- shown HERE ... 'zon version HERE.

As it happens, they fit perfectly in between the gap on the Yaris and are super secure. I would note that I use cam buckle straps, rather than ratchet straps, though. This ensures that I never over-tighten the rigging and damage either the car or kayak.

I made similar loops for under the hood of the car, affixed directly to the frame of the car using existing bolts, as a place to run the guyline from the front of the kayak, as to not damage the paint on the car (though looking at my picture, you might wonder why I care; horray sun damage!)

You may not be able to use this exact make and model, but this loading technique is effective. And really, you can duplicate it on whatever rack you have by removing the crossbar's end cap and using a piece of rebar steel (assuming you use a rack with exposed crossbar ends). This would be the cheapest option.

If you don't have exposed crossbar ends, then another thing you can do to load a kayak onto a normal car like yours, is to use a kayak cart as a "roller" by turning it upside down and placing it on the trunk or back windsheld of your car (depending on the shape of your cart and contours of your particular car). Video demo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wnzk1VOJa0

If you're not able to do that for some reason, or don't need to own a kayak cart, they sell something that accomplishes the same thing:

https://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Sherpak-Boat-Roller/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009PAAI5I&pd_rd_r=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE&pd_rd_w=zCMiP&pd_rd_wg=k1tUj&psc=1&refRID=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE

Hope that helps.

I had bought specific kayaking ones, but these I found on ebay and are so comfortable. Plus it was like 10 bucks or something. I can find the link to the item if people are interested.

Edit: I couldn't find the same product, but this one has a similar cut and shape http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Swimming-Life-Jacket-Boating-Kayaking-Surfing-SUP-Buoyancy-Aid-Fishing-Vest-/322494891715?hash=item4b163186c3

Alternatively, I also bought this one I bought one. Almost as comfortable but the back was too high so I would end up leaning and sitting too far back. These fit the kids perfectly though https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And since we're talking about PFDs, this is the one I use for the sausage puppy https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GPOUOZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looking good! Nice work! Now that you've got them nice and clean be sure to give them a generous coat of protectant. I have been extremely pleased with 303 UV Protectant. It will not only give the pads a great shine, but it also will protect them from UV and hinder future mildew growth.

I have been using THIS for my interior (dashboard and door panels). So far I am liking it.

I heard positive reviews of 303 Spray

Which one do you recommend? Or is there any product more best bang for my buck?

Thank you!

Most of my trips are more canoe based with portaging so we are still trying to go a little light. I use heavier duty 20 Liter rubber dry bags for cookware and misc gear, like my helinox chair things of this nature. Things in these bags are designed to shut up and left outside overnight. (Normally under the vestibule)

For tent gear or for anything really Get Sea to summit event stuff sacks. Spendy but worth it. After you use them, you will wonder why you werent using waterproof stuff sacks all along.

They are compression waterproof bags. They are perfect. I use mine all the time. You can search the comments in the Amazon link for how many liters each bag is. I think I have a medium and large. I use one the smaller one for all my clothes and the larger one for my sleep system. Pad, bag, pillow, tent light etc. I couldnt be happier with them. I then put those stuff bags into my larger portage bag.

For those other things you mention just use a different sized very small dry bags or ziplocks. I keep my toiletries in a ziplock then that goes into one of the dry bags. I find this system of organizing is simple. Easy to remember where everything goes, which helps you lose less things at camp and is fast to pack and unpack.

https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-eVent-Compression-Medium/dp/B000NQQ5A0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499492514&sr=8-1&keywords=event+stuff+sack

Hope this helps

A friend of mine has a similar canoe with the molded seats. I've found the standard seats like this one work perfectly fine. And by fine I mean I've been comfortable after paddling up to 5 hours straight.

https://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I

Can someone recommend me the best battery / power center / whatever else I'll need. I just bought this boat yesterday from Amazon and also picked up the trolling motor, here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QIB7K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon suggests I buy the Minn-Kota battery and power center. Is that the best option or is there a better one? I read some shady reviews on the power center.

Here’s my write up on JeepForum

This is the fuse block I used

I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store

This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less

These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend

This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point

Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)

EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!

1. This article explains the differences. Basically the 2016.5 gives all models more base features, like heated seats as standard in the Touring, and navigation as standard in all models.
   
   
2. The dash has that weird texture at first but I find that goes away after a few months. Or maybe it's based on temperature. Regardless, my normal microfiber works fine on it.
   
   
3. In my Mazdas I use this product. It works on all surfaces but glass, and is one of the best products out there, especially for leather.
   
   
4. I put my mount in the place you've described, I really can't find any place much better. No issue with heat though. This is the mount I use.
   
   
5. The only other thing I recommend to everyone are the Weathertech Floor Liners, for every car you buy. They're expensive but worth every penny if you live somewhere it snows or rains constantly.

Footwear is going to depend on what exactly you are doing. On trawling/dredging trips, I have a pair of shrimper boots (I prefer the taller boots, which are better at keeping water out of them). For wading, I have two sets of wading boots. I have soft wade boots, which are easier to put on and sufficient for mud/sand. I also have harder soled wade boots that last longer when you are frequently on rocks or oysters shells. I've even used a pair of hiking boots, which honestly lasted the longest but looked less professional. I also know a couple of people that swear by neoprene boots like these.

I also recommend that you get a UV Buff. Partly it's because I hate being covered in sunscreen. But it also protects you from wind and cold.

Get a decent pair of polarized sunglasses. Pick a lens color that is suitable for the waters where you are working. (I think you are technically supposed to use blue/green for oceanic waters, but I've always preferred a brown lens)

UV longleeves are a decent temperature-regulating alternative to the Columbia button-downs (they are basically just under armour shirts). Also I recommend looking into some cheaper off-brands (Columbia is expensive!). But DO NOT get the Columbia-style button downs with velcro in place of buttons at the collars/sleeves.

I also recommend investing in an inflatable life jacket. They tend to get in the way less when you are trying to work out on the water.

Here's what we did to store our TI4 in the box. I stole the idea from user bigegg on the bgg forums in this thread--

https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1885145/storage-solution-box

Some of his details are incorrect and he has no references for what he actually used or bought, so that's what I'm doing here.

Ground force tokens, trade good tokens, and other misc things go in one of these: (EDIT: we clipped off the little hanger thing on the end because it made the box just barely not fit) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E39T4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Action card deck and Agenda deck each gets one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002TT3KW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seventeen of these for the race tokens and cards, one for the planet deck, and one for the objective deck, for a total of nineteen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002TT3KM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lastly, these six boxes are for the ships and the colored cards--the tech decks and promissory notes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2DREPO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Everything all together was around $50.

We cut the planet tray out of the rest of the tray with a box knife, and we put the strategy cards atop one of the stacks of planets. The victory track we ended up moving to the top of the race boxes so it would lay flat. Other than that, the books and stuff sit on top of everything, and the box closes up no problem. It's considerably heavier than before due to all the added plastic, of course, but it's looking like cleanup and set up will be much easier with this method because all anybody will need to grab is their color box and their race box. Hope this helps!

Edit: Ah also forgot to mention--we sleeved everything in these. They are thinner than the FFG ones and therefore fit in our plastic cases:
https://www.amazon.com/Mayday-Games-Sleeves-41x63mm-sleeves/dp/B06XZGN51N/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511979051&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+card+sleeves

I don't think I have the original one but I used it in one of these and it worked great. I'll include it if u want. I think it's a medium size, but I know it fits great with this bag.

Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack,Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NQQ5A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Ei.Bb3JPGYNC

If you go the kayak route, you can save a bundle for your roof racks if you already have the rails on your vehicle.

These have great reviews on Amazon. I just bought them and used them twice with success. You can also throw in these loops for securing the bows and sterns to your vehicle.

Never tried but I bet the clear plastic organizers for fishing lures would work great.
Edit: like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E39T4Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427844199&sr=8-2&keywords=Plano

This is what I use for pretty much all my FFG games. It doesn't look like the image on the page, if you scroll down to the first review (where they're storing 7 Wonders tokens in it), it looks like that. It's great for Legion because one of the wide sections without any dividers in it holds the movement tools and the four range ruler pieces, while all the tokens fit in the other two rows easily.

This is the same problem we had when learning how to setup the electrical system and I feel like rarely talked about. You need a fuse block like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469329101&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fuse+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51Wn79biAwL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

You run a wire from your charge controller (load +) to the + terminal on the fuse block and another to the - terminal. You can then wire all your 12v outlets and appliances (lighting, vent fan, etc) to that and mark on the cover what wire is what so you know when doing repair/maintenance

We'll be recording and posting a video about this in the near future because I feel like the little details in electrical are not talked about and require a lot of research for first timers. Feel free to ask more questions and we'll try to help! 😃😃

Edit: I forgot to add some info about the ground. With an off grid system like yours, it is usually a closed system which means you don't have a ground. Just positive and negative wires going to and from the battery/charge controller/fuse panel.

I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.

I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.


Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife


Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/

Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard


RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv


Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.

Have you seen this?

Sterling BB1230-12 Volt, 30 Amps - Pro Batt Ultra Battery to Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071DMV7PF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Xg9RCb3FA8T5T

Its able to charge LFP AGM etc, theres only 2 reviews and one is probably from the company, but it seems like a great solution. The issue is that its not readily set up for direct solar hookup and you need an extra MPPT charge controller for that.

The marine lab I've worked at/taken classes at is stocked up with these. They clip them to the sides of 5 gallon buckets. If they find anything interesting in the field, they throw it in the bucket and it's usually good until they get back. Good enough for them, good enough for me!

Also, OP, you live in Florida? Good news is, if a hurricane wipes your power, your fish won't freeze as long as it's not one of those weird out-of-season ones.

You're most welcome! I bought the following:

4x100W Panels

Panel Mounting

Solar Panel Connectors

Tool Crimper

Assembly Tool

Panel Connectors

Power Information

CTEK Charger

CTEK SmartPass

200ah AMG Battery

Fuse Block

300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

LED Strip

Dometic 35 Fridge


I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.

I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \

EDIT: Adding info.

Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Terminal-Connector-Cable/dp/B00URTHQTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442293&sr=1-1&keywords=yeti+1250+terminal+ring

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442487&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+box+12

Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-47453-4-Gauge-Battery-Assembly/dp/B00JGJGCV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442659&sr=8-9&keywords=4+awg+cable

For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.

https://www.amazon.com/PRIMARY-POWER-GROUND-100FT-ROLLS/dp/B00OU0IIFU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442827&sr=1-6&keywords=12+gauge+wire

For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-GROUND-PRIMARY-STRANDED-COPPER/dp/B01C7O8166/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442902&sr=1-6&keywords=10+gauge+wire.

Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/57/22/80/57228076ef240ed796b328a7d6387eac.jpg

Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D8HIQ2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443951&sr=1-4&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Electrical-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01E7SY49I/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496444024&sr=1-11&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svja8zEcKNQ&t=9s

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443370&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=wire+stripping+pliers+irwin

You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.

Are you really set on solar? Depends on how much you drive but you maybe better off with an alternator connection. What type of fan are you using? You maybe able to go a little smaller than 100 amp hrs. That is a lot for just a laptop/phone/electronics lights.

A good example of how simple 12V can be is this box
https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1496277131&sr=8-8&keywords=battery+box+27
It has a few inline breakers (10 amp and 60 amp) in the box for the 12V outlets.

Look for a local outfitter, the family owned and ran type store. I have always had the best luck with them, and the customer service is untouchable. They go that extra mile to make sure you return.

​

I had an older Jeep but it did just fine ..I got some rack pads and tied it down bow and stern as well as side to side.....these work really well for the front of the car.

I have this toy, its definitely one of my crown jewels/favorite out of my collection, OPs picture leaves a bit to be desired in the posing and environment department, but it is truly impressive. If you do decide to go after it it, there are two versions - the 2nd release with "sound" is the one you want. The first release is less detailed and had defective rubber. Even if you do have/get the newer release I highly recommend a yearly treatment of "303 aerospace protectant" on all the rubber parts of this, particularly the head/dome.

I love the FJ because its after market and owners support is strong.

• You can add a auxiliary fuel tank, like these by Man-A-Fre. It adds another 19 gallons.
  
  
• An auxiliary fuse box for more "power points". Blue Sea System makes them to satisfy as many as you want to add.
  
  
• Rack solutions are a search away. From new racks to mounting accessories.
  
  
• I've been doing this for years without a winch. (Though I bought one recently) Snatch straps, D rings and friend are more than enough for most situations. Maybe add some Maxtrax if you can afford them. Mostly drive according to your mechanical ability and skill, know your limits.
  
  
• CB radios are great but I've used cheap walkie talkies too. Not like my spotter is going to be carrying a CB manpack.

If you live in a place where road salt is used, take the car through a wash when it's above freezing and not showing during the winter. Make sure you choose the option that will spray off your underbody.

And NEVER take the thing through a regular car wash (a quick-service one that has machines or people touching it). This will damage your paint/glass as the dirt from every car before you gets smeared into your own. Touchless car washes are a much better choice and are pretty easy to find. They are not any more expensive.

I also recommend getting a bottle of Aerospace 303 and applying it to rubber/plastic surfaces that sit in direct sunlight. It helps preserve the materials from fading/cracking and adds a nice subtle sheen.

If you really want to go crazy, jump down the r/autodetailing rabbithole.

MOAR TACKLE

Canopy Grenades

S-Wavers

Whopper Ploppers

Phenix Abyss 808

A few G Loomis Rods in your price range

New PFD

Sort of impersonal, but anybody would love a Tackle Warehouse Gift Card.

If you know where he puts in, you could also buy a years worth of launching fees.

If you HAVE to evac and you really want to save him get one of these and a 5g bait bucket from a fishing store.

Make sure the bucket lid has screen or holes.

Make sure and put a layer of substrate from your tank and load some plants in there. Stock up on batteries. Don't leave him in direct sun.

r/StormComing has good info regularly updated.

Source: Been there done that. Hurricane Opal.

> but I don't want to have to tie down the front (like you have on your fenders) or the rears,

It's actually under the hood and under the trunk. There is nowhere on the frame of my wife's car to attach something. To be honest, it didn't feel necessary to do the front and back because the mount held it in place very well. But, I feel like it's a backup in case the mount comes off the rack itself.

You can do a combo like this for pretty close to your budget. The boat itself is surprisingly resilient, collapses down to a (heavy) bag for your apartment. Motor mounts on securely. Plan for some occasional vinyl repairs, and you have to deal with a battery and charging, but it'll putt you around until you want to get into something more permanent. I use this as a dinghy for a powerboat and it works great. I added a small solar panel ($75) and converter unit ($15) so it charges the battery when it's parked for a while.

​

Intex Excursion 5

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Excursion-5-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536084088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=intex+boat&psc=1

​

Intex electric trolling motor

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Trolling-Motor-Inflatable-Boats/dp/B005QIB7K8/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084206&sr=1-5&keywords=intex+trolling+motor

​

Motor mount

https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Motor-Mount-inflatable-Boats/dp/B000NNM4BW/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084263&sr=1-5&keywords=Intex+Motor+Mount+Kit+inflatable+Boats

​

​

​

​

There is a way (though not so easy) to haul kayaks on your JK - to address some of your concerns:

For easy bow line connection point - this might work
They mount under the hood and flip under the hood when not in use...

For the kayak/canoe to be on the roof - I've seen a configuration where:
There was a square tube mount that mounted directly the the sides of the windshield and the rear set of cross bars was actually a T rack that was mounted on the hitch...the windshield mount looked something like this, but I recall it bolted directly to the sides of the windshield in the factory holes...thinking more about it, I don't think it was a JK. The rear looked like this

As for seats soaking up mud...Its a Jeep! ;-)....maybe consider neoprene seat covers?

First, my needs:

1. Power 1/2 LED monitors at ~30W each
   
2. Occasionally charge laptop
   
3. LED lighting
   
4. 2 Maxxair fans
   
   
   Second, the components:
   
   Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
   
   Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
   
   Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
   
   Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
   
   2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
   
   Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
   
   Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
   
   Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
   
   Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
   
   Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
   
   Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
   
   Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
   
   Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
   
   Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
   
   Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
   
   Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
   
   Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
   
   Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
   
   
   I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
   
   Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!

The red cable going to the bottom of each is probably the feed. There's a ground bus at the top of these blocks that OP isn't using, presumably in favor of those giant bus bars.

Edit: pretty sure they're these, and you can see the feed lug at the bottom in the "open" pictures. :)

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_15


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Hello fellow 'yaker! Greetings from the frozen plains of Iowa. One tip I have: I got a pair of hood tie downs like this: Seattle Sports Built USA Sherpa Hood Loops (Pair) - Under Hood Anchor Point for Tie Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyJxCb2WCCZXS

Find a bolt that goes into the body near the hood line. Then the straps stick between the hood and the body. I tuck them out of the way under the hood when not in use. Looks cleaner and doesn't rub on the paint at all when attached to the front of the kayaks. Happy trails ✌️

Have you done the previous maintenance intervals? i.e. fluid flushes (transmission, coolant, brake fluid, spark plugs)? Recommend using DOT 5.1 brake fluid, and long life coolant/trans fluid.

Not sure on the civic, but if it uses a timing chain (which it probably does) it's probably due for an adjustment. If it uses a belt you need to change that ASAP. Honda lists their belt replacement at 7 years or 110k miles, whichever comes first.

Might be a good time to replace the battery before it leaves you stranded.

For other minor things, I would:

• Make sure your air filter and cabin air filter are replaced
  
• Apply 303 UV protectant to all your plastic panels and rubber gaskets (301 aerospace spray)
  
• Spray anti-corrosion spray on your battery terminals
  
• Wash, clay bar, and wax your car with a good sealant
  
• Wet sand and polish your headlights
  
  

These are great, and waterproof as for size, take measurements and get one a little smaller Than the width of your sac rolled up as tight as you can get it. Length shouldn't be a problem.

Aside from that, get an inexpensive down bag. I have the Kelty Cosmic Down 20. It runs anywhere from $99.00 to $160 depending on where you get it and current sales. Great bag, packs down as small as a football with a compression sack.

Nice! May keep an eye on them to make sure they don't start fading. I know some of the micro-suede fabrics like to do that. I actually sprayed down (lightly) my alcantara to help prevent fading with this stuff

Here's the /r/autodetailing answer for you:

• Pretty much everything in there is plastic. Literally everything. Don't stress too much about the materials, you'll know the difference.
  
  
• Wipe down most things with a damp microfiber cloth, this will get 99% of it
  
  
• If water won't get it clean, use an automotive all purpose cleaner and a microfiber towel
  
  
• Use a glass cleaner without ammonia (like Invisible Glass) to wipe down the glass and mirrors. Ammonia, like found in normal Windex, can cause issues with window tint.
  
  
• If you're going the extra mile, use a product like 303 Aerospace Protectant to give the plastic a little UV protection.
  
  
• If you want to really get into this, join us at /r/autodetailing and check out Larry's video about interior detailing on YouTube

I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.

I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.

Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.

Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.

Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.

It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.

This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.

I don't have the same kayak (I've got a Pescador 12), but had the same problem as you with the seat area being concaved. What I did that really made for a comfortable day on the water was to buy a canoe seat like this one-- https://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I -- and then take some PVC and sort of fit it around the concave area to try and make a flat area for the seat to set on. Googling "PVC kayak seat" was always a good starting point for me.

Get a fuse box like this then attach wires to cigarette adapters. The fuse box is connected directly to battery with another fuse between them.

EDIT: Mind you, I'm still trying to figure out what size fuse, circuit breaker goes between them LOL

EDIT #2: Also, from this fuse box, you directly connect LED lighting, your cig adapters and any other 12v source you may have. All the fuses are in one place instead of in-line. Makes it easy to diagnose problems as you can just pull the fuse to work on something. Make sure to label!

EDIT #3: Also.. get some these fuses. It's cheap and now you have a ton of extras!

Same brand as the other poster, this one is a bit more. I own this one, best PFD I have had for all around. Has the high back for sitting in kayak, has nice easy to use pockets, very comfortable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HDACS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Look, if you want to get rid of it, while protecting your car at the same time, get some 303 Aerospace protectant it will restore finish and protect your panels from the sun. Great stuff.

I've got similar electrical needs to you, currently move between inverness and the central belt and have 290w on the roof. There have a couple times where it's been dreary for a few days and the batteries have rundown near to 50%, so in those events I've limited my usage and gone for a wee drive the next day. Hasn't happened too often though.

If you're driving every day you might be fine without solar but I would look in to a proper battery charger like one of these (https://www.amazon.com/Sterling-BB1230-12-Volt-30-Amps/dp/B071DMV7PF/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535726827&sr=8-1&keywords=sterling+bb1230). I only mention it because my 'smart' relay only pushes 14.6v in to the batteries which isn't enough for an equalize charge and they'd end up dieing prematurely if it was the only charging source.

I'll plug this fridge too as it's awesome and uses very little power.

because I wasn't sure of the term haha.

A bus bar would be perfect. Now I just need to find a cheap one that has a cover; though I could print one if need be.

this is pretty nice for the price http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-Busbar/dp/B0091VHLW4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1408979981&sr=8-7&keywords=terminal+bus+bar

Empty out the tank, buy a portable bubbler ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EYULIS?cache=fc8ff06c39fd52a9dcebbbe26dce6de3&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1415168446&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) and put the fish in a home depot/Lowe's bucket of tank water (2 if any of your fish have attitude problems). Avoid feeding them for 2 days beforehand if possible and you should be good. I used this method to move my 29 across the country, a 2 day drive, with no losses. Pack the tank up last and unpack it first, 10g should not be too heavy but empty it anyways to avoid stressing the sealant. Also not sure if you use dechlorinator but if not you should get some before putting any new tap water in. Let me know if you have any questions, I am happy to share my experience

Edit: just saw your plants - I've seen people use newspaper to wrap them up but I just chucked mine in with the fish buckets and everything turned out fine. Good luck!

Please get yourself a proper container for those buses. At least one of them should be covered to avoid shorting.
Or get a all in one fuse box like this.

Next something looks wrong in your wiring. Is there a ground line and positive running to those switches?

Lastly please put a fuse between the bus and the battery. That way if those buses did short it will blow first.

Edit: I understand the ground going to the switch now. It looks like you have illuminated switches with need a ground.
Probably worth mentioning as there are double throw switches that would short out if someone wired it without understanding.

Have you considered foam racks? Copy and paste from my post earlier:

I have a 2000 civic hatchback DX so we basically have the same car but my car has a bigger butt. I bought this 25$ foam kit off amazon and it works fine. I also got these hooks and installed them on the radiator bolts and carry the kayak in the center of the roof. Two straps that came with the foam kit across the kayak and through the door shutting both doors on the straps, one more like it from tail of kayak to tow hook in the back, and one of the ropes off the nose like a V attaching to these two hooks on the front of the car. If you want to go more expensive there is this 90$ inflatable roof rack. I went with the cheaper route because I usually have a truck but the few times I don't I want to be able to still go out. I've yet to have an issue with the foam blocks. They work really well.

Edit, I also have a moonroof installed on my car. Tightened down tighter then it probably needs to be, the kayak almost touches the moonroof.

They also make wider ones for non V shaped kayaks also.

This is what I use. It leaves a pleasant shine but is not overly greasy like armorall wipes. Seems to last forever too. Added benefit of protecting your dash from UV rays. It's a little expensive but a bottle will last you forever. You need like 4 or 5 squirts to do the whole dash.

Maybe get something like this :
http://www.amazon.com/Onyx-Co2-Automatic-Vest-Universal-Adult/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1422675595&sr=1-1&keywords=automatic+inflatable+life+jacket

That way there is some piece of mind should something happen and you wind up in the water, you're safe?

I have one that I really only wear when I am solo on the boat. Hey, ya never know. It's not the things you're expecting to happen that happen, be safe out there.

I forgot to answer your actual question.

No, using PC fans is simply not suitable for this application. There just isn't enough surface area on the fan blades to create the amount of static pressure required to effectively pull enough air through a good carbon filter. If you want to go small and cheap, maybe try a smaller filter like a 4", coupled with an inline bilge blower.

This is always my suggestion for anyone asking the best way to have removable but effective tie down points.

Use these underneath the hood and hatch for quick non permanent tie down points. Sherpak 078115 Quick Loops (Pair) , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JDZIBb99AK3JQ

And these so you don't have to worry about dealing with knots. Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IFZIBbHAJX6WB

Something like this for the leather works good, use it on my car periodically. Also something like this for the plastic trim, and you're all set.

Yes, that would work.

Although... if you want something higher quality, check out Sea to Summit brand

• https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-eVent-Compression-Medium/dp/B000NQQ5A0
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-Ultra-Sil-Compression-Sacks/dp/B00HS3AUW0
  
  Medium or large of those will work, and be perfect for backpacking

look into the BlueSea PDC - like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it in my JK under the hood, with a 100 amp circuit breaker between it and the battery. I ran battery cables and put ends on them. I wouldn't suggest Jumper cables as they aren't designed for continuous usage. I would recommend 2 gauge cables. Google Blue Sea and Jeep and there are lots of pics and descriptions of options.

Not sure if you're looking for this type but maybe a canister one similar to this canister pfd I'm in AUS so cant recommend brands/shops etc, but i love mine, its so light and i don't notice it at all.

Sure.
Lots of people use this one which is nice because it's got all you need built in plus some fancier features out of the box.

What I use and was talking about previous is something like this and this

There are cheaper places to buy it but this stuff is amazing on the seats. It’s slippery at first but if you keep buffing with microfiber cloth it works great. Removes all dirt and grime on my white seats.

ONR for the exterior.


https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=60145955190&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrKx8on96qpfRHIag_8D6tJ-sDAdT0AN2idoZQlnAnGnBIZe91MjLnkaAtmjEALw_wcB&hvadid=274872144872&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9030034&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15136836626326077358&hvtargid=kwd-296127962609&hydadcr=12191_10197806&keywords=303+protectant&qid=1563216687&s=gateway&sr=8-5

Get a boat fan -- they're waterproof, 12V, and they put out around 200cfm. Also, they have mounting options that make it easy to connect a 4" duct to. If you use those 120mm computer fans, you'll have to make a duct and mount. Here's an example boat fan: https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-1749-4-Blower-Resistant-4-Inch/dp/B003EX02DA/

Also curious where you attach in the front. I got these, which I think will be perfect for my paddleboard...if it ever gets delivered.

https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hood+loops&qid=1557702207&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Sure thing.

I am running this battery
Optima Batteries 8027-127 D27M BlueTop Starting and Deep Cycle Marine Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UFXHQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3lL4yb7C6Z6P6

Which I installed in this box
MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_coL4ybRZADD52

I use this charger to keep it ready to go
Stanley BC1509 15 Amp Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001U04MSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xnL4yb0GFAMKG

I like the MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center as it has a carry handle, terminals to hook up my charger, and two 12v cigarette lighter outlets. I use one outlet for my 12v adapter for my CPAP machine and the other to keep my cell phone charge. It also has a simple meter to show the battery charge.

Using this setup I can get 6 night for summer camp and still have at least 75% charge on the battery.

These have been awesome for me so far. It's ridiculous how useful something so simple can be.

Edit: Actually the pictures down show how these work. Here's a video that explains it better.

I have one about half way up on each side of the hood of my car (I have convenient bolts there) - I find that two tie downs at the front make it easier to see if anything is moving above my head as well as being more stable. I had an accident last year involving a failed rack and a 15 ft long yak, so I take the kind of care that someone who learned a lesson takes.

That's probably a fine life jacket, it'll work to keep you afloat. The difference between sailing and powerboating is that you probably don't intend to ever get in the water (tho you can for swimming and whatnot), so a jacket like that can get uncomfortable (big and bulky).

I use something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-Outdoor-Full-Throttle-Automatic/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=pd_sbs_sg_52 which automatically inflates if you hit the water. I don't have my exact brand handy, but this is the basic idea. Since it's usually deflated, it's much more comfy to wear for long days sailing.

For better or for worse, a lot of people don't wear life jackets while on board a boat on CO reservoirs, they just have them nearby. If you feel comfortable doing that, the one you linked will work just fine. If there's a storm or possibility of stiff winds, you should put it on stat!

I personally wear one at all times, which is why I wanted the auto-inflate one.

It's extremely rigid (I can carry it from one end by myself when it's inflated without it touching the ground), and it directly supports this motor. I really have zero complaints about it. I haven't bought the motor yet, but there are plenty of reviews saying the motor works great with it.

I'd recommend giving it a regular spray of 303 Aerospace UV Protectant. Seems to do pretty well at keeping black plastic and trim from breaking down and getting ugly.

I went with one of these.

Highly recommended by other dwellers and This blog has a great review on it.

Oh! One of the best purchases I've ever made for my canoe! http://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I

Hello everyone,

First time spray booth building and I have some questions. I heard using a Bilge fan will reduce the chance of catching fire when spraying lacquer. This is the model that I am looking at. Does anyone have any experience with using a Bilge fan and can let me know if it is too loud?

Thank you

Standard 303 protectant is on right now, but the price kinda blows.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_94d38b6d?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13887280011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=01DKWAXBK8E5WDKDEV3C

Also this Bissel carpet cleaner, which Ive seen other users mention they have and like it for extraction.

https://www.amazon.com/Bissell-3624-SpotClean-Professional-Portable/dp/B008DBRFBK/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_851dfabf?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=13887280011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=01DKWAXBK8E5WDKDEV3C

I use Kroil because I bought 2 cans when they were on sale...seems to work really well, no complaints. But same idea.

Also, I find having some silicone spray lubricant is handy to keep around. Whenever something is frictiony, I give it a spray. There might be something better than it, but it's worked well for me.

3rdly, I like to have a good plastic cleaner/conditioner. Keeps plastics looking pretty inside and out: http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398726066&sr=8-1&keywords=plastic+conditioner

Lastly, I use Folex for all my carpet/upholstery cleaning needs. It is amazing...Price has been going up recently though:(. I hate that I'm only 28 and I've watched the price of gas/milk/eggs/paint/engine oil/etc more than quadruple in my short life...I don't know how I'm going to handle being 50-60-70...gonna complain so much.

On my old car I used tow hooks. On my current vehicle, I use the tow hitch in back and there is a part of the grill I can loop around that includes the frame. I would not suggest just a piece of the body, definitely go for the frame where ever you can get to it.

Hood loops are a good and inexpensive option for the front. Use a bolt inside the hood then just pull them out or tuck them in when using or not.

something like this? Yes.

I highly recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ALDMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522112820&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hood+canoe+straps&dpPl=1&dpID=41P7694VwpL&ref=plSrch

Cockpit premium is a great product. I use it every week or so on my dash and the rest of my interior as a quick wipedown product.

Also, 303 is only $12. What do you mean the price doubled? It's always been about $10 or so.

Get a yakima rail grab kit with 66" bars. The longer length will allow you to add things such as paddle mounts, strap stops, and even awnings. Plus more weight capacity and the boats will sit a little higher off the truck.

Quick loops are awesome for bow lines.
Sherpak Quick Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l4CuzbE696JZX

The straps are good, here is another option as well. I dont like the straps in my line of site when driving so I use the back doors and it works fine.

I'd try some type of glossy interior detailer. It will cover it up and possibly restore some of the oils back into the plastic.

​

This is good stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

​

If it's painted, you might be out of luck. It looks like bare plastic in the pic but I just saw you comment about taking the paint off.

Nice truck! I got myself a pair of these a while back so my straps weren't rubbing...

Seattle Sports 078000 Sherpak Hood Loops, Pair (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-1FBDb4Q6TRWF

Might be worth checking out in your case!

Is a life preserver like this sufficient for flying over/around the Chesapeake Bay? I don't plan on flying over water that often, and it's not that much distance over water, so I'd probably be out of glide range of land for only short periods of time. I want to be prepared, but I'm not sure I need a bigger, over-the-shoulder style one. Thoughts, please?

Yes as long as your ropes and straps are tied off correctly. I recommend these straps in con junction with that kit.

Built U.S.A. Sherpak Hood Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRUMzbPXKMCJD

I use a boat roller like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PAAI5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 , Seattle Sports Sherpak Boat Roller) to help me load my kayak onto my cartop racks from the rear of the vehicle.

http://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Magic-Plus-Kayak-Paddle/dp/B001AI69KQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1427333608&sr=1-4&keywords=kayak+paddle

That's the paddle I have and it's awesome. $67.

http://www.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427333486&sr=8-2&keywords=fishing+pfd

I bought my father in law and brother in law stohlquist kayaking pfds and they are solid. They look great and are extremely high quality. I know the fisherman pfd is expensive, but you get what you pay for.

typically I have a bus bar where I connect my batteries, my charge controllers and my loads. I have an overall fuse connected between the batteries and the bus.

Something like this is a good idea. Having a fuse for every load helps.

https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bus+bar&qid=1567973923&s=gateway&sr=8-4

For leather, regular 303 Aerospace Protectant actually works great. I've gotten numerous comments about how well my leather has held up, and I attribute it to this.

I also do a yearly deep clean, and somewhat regularly wipe down with plain water. It may not be a "sealant", but it lasts quite a long time.

You're not going to run that many amps through the DC fuse block... things with smalllish loads go here... (LEDs, Fan, water pump... around 30 amps combined, and maybe about 20 max for a single device). Large devices like the inverter get attached directly to the battery with their own dedicated high cap fuse. So I have a 30A fuse at the POS side of my fuse block, so everything total shouldn't exceed 30A for me. Again, here's the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC

Not what OP used, but theselook useful.

You could use that along with some aluminum tape to seal it to the back of the cutter.

I use this blower:
attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3L18BbTB6G1FB

Along with this vent hose:
White Flexible Pvc Vinyl Vent Duct Hose, 4 in. x 20 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G198P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4R18BbNJ19ANP

These clamps:
Cambridge Tension Clamps, 2 Pk, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737XRRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SS18Bb12827MZ

And this quick disconnect:
Dryer Dock Dryer Vent 6" for 4" Tubes, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BAAWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4T18BbV6CJ1TW

If you put the blower near the window it will keep negative pressure upstream which helps put less smoke into the room.

I don’t exhaust out a window, but something like this might do the trick for you:
Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AW18BbDW0592D
Though there may be cheaper or better DIY options for that part.

I use the 303 Aerospace spray on mine. They still look a little worn right where my heels rest, but otherwise look pretty new.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482181301&sr=8-2&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant

Most of my suggestions are from other Reddit posts on here or BGG.

Do yourself a favor and buy an accordion/file folder for the map pieces, ideally with at least 13 pockets for map pieces A-M. That way you do not need to Tetris the pieces back in the box. Saves a lot of time.

I use this Plano box for commonly used small pieces.

And this one for the environment and monster holders.

Smaller monsters will fit in a tray like this one but not the larger mobs (or ones with ten of them), so you would either need to baggy those mobs anyway or cut space in the included foamcore packaging (there are some good examples in other threads).

Also YMMV, but we keep "trashed" cards in a separate ziploc bag rather than actually destroying them.

Edit Note: Using all of the methods described above, I can fit everything from the 1st edition in the box except the file folder.

If you straighten the arm out (and keep it straight for a week) about once a month you should be good. Also try this stuff to preserve rubber skin and keep it moisturized:


https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

Pretty sure they mean this (or something like it).

I have seen someone on YouTube recommend 303 Protectant Spray to repair scuffed dash on the Model 3.

Not sure if it would help and it's not cheap but might be worth looking into.

Eek that looks rough. I'd use a fine cloth and this stuffuse it sparingly and be gentle when cleaning the suit.

I use Aerospace 303 . I've seen some stores carry them but I order mine online.

I use it for my interior leather and plastic bits with Microfiber towels and exterior with a few sprays into the wash bucket. I also apply on my door/window seals to prevent doors from freezing up during the winter.

I've heard some stories of this being true so take it with a grain of salt. I don't live in a city where it will freeze up too often, but I apply it during the winter anyways to just be safe.

Get something that fits correctly!!!! that is a big thing. Also get something with utility, mine has pockets and zippers all over it and it serves as a mini tackle box. like this http://smile.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_15?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397315283&sr=1-15&keywords=personal+flotation+device+fishing

Thanks for that tip.
The 32oz. spray bottle is cheaper than the 16oz. on amazon.

Good training will cover emergency scenarios like you describe. Basically, I can image imagine two scenarios involving water landing: engine out and loss of vehicle control. Here's how I would handle them.

For an engine out over water:

1. Check any surge (the forward movement of the wing that comes from a rapid deceleration) with brake input. Steer the wing. Aviate towards safe terrain that can serve as a landing zone.
   
2. If you still have a lot of altitude, attempt to restart the motor. (It is always better to regain powdered flight if possible).
   
3. Whether the motor restarts or not, land immediately once possible, and preferably into the wind.
   
4. If landing on ground isn't possible and the motor does not restart (or you are at low enough altitude that you can't risk a restart) begin un-clipping from the harness progressively as you the approach the water. Legs first, then waist, then chest (the idea being that its harder to get to the further connection points while in the water). Ideally, your pace should match with your altitude (so that you don't fall out too soon). Limit any connections between you and the vehicle (you may wish to have a hook knife in hand at this point).
   
5. As your legs hit the water, jump forward away from the vehicle. Swim clear.
   
6. Since you're smart and wore a PFD to fly over water, inflate it now. Do not attempt to recover your wing or motor until after you have reached safety. Again, you're smart, and you equipped your motor with floatation, so it'll handle itself until rescued.
   
   For loss of vehicle control over water:
   
   
7. At higher altitudes, assess the situation. If the wing is likely to recover with no or minimal input, give it those inputs and enough time to say aloud "ohfuckohfuckohfuckohfuck". Mentally prepare to deploy reserve.
   
8. If the wing hasn't recovered after your brief cuss session, you are at too low an altitude to await a recovery, or the situation is deemed irrecoverable, follow the procedure to deploy your reserve. "Look, grab, pull, clear, throw!"
   
9. Once the reserve is deployed, disable the glider wing if possible. In this scenario, I would recommend using a hook knife to cut the glider's risers, but I don't think I advocate pulling the wing in towards you (to prevent entangling yourself when in the water). Downplaning in bad, but getting caught in the lines in water is worse. As you approach the water, follow the procedures for motor out, above, starting at (4).

I have the same method of loading except I use a boat roller instead of a mat. They have suction cups for attaching to my vehicle.

Seattle Sports Sherpak Suction Boat Roller Load Assist for Mounting Kayaks and Canoes to Car Tops, One Size, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KL3jDbVD31R0P

A buddy of mine uses this he says its really good he applies it every few months or so https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

awesome! yeah I'm going to be using that on the random hole around the machine that let smoke into the room and Weather striping on the lids to block it so that it ONLY goes through the exhaust!

any suggestions for blowers? I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Quiet-Blower-Resistant-4-Inch/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542672858&sr=8-4&keywords=4+in+blower+fan

Basic, cheap, works for about a 5-gallon bucket. Requires D batteries
Marine Metal Aeratr Bubble Box 1.5V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IYpXBbVKYXBGT

Better.... runs a 48qt cooler. D batteries, cigarette lighter adapter or 110. Really nice.
Frabill Ice Aqua-Life Cooler Modification Aeration Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OW7K46W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s0pXBbYYQDRQ5

Don't forget to tie down the front! I bought a pair of these from the suggestion of someone from the mazda3revolution forums. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024AVPO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also wrapped the rope in some microfiber (where it touches the paint) to protect the car, but base don the length of the canoe, you won't need to worry about that.

You're welcome. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW

303 is a UV protection product for use on marine equipment and aircraft. Regularly coating inflatables with it after periods of heavy use is a good way to prolong the life of the product.

I heard good things about Blue Sea Systems. Plan on using that when I start adding lights

Get yourself some hood loops and make the world a better place for everyone.

No, they're inline fans. They only work went the software is running in the background. They are there to simulate wind speed. I only use the when in F1-ish position. An awesome gent over on the iRacing forums wrote the code for the fans. After another aswesome gent posted a way to run the fans via PC.

Same as above. I ran 16 Gauge wire with 30 amp fuses. I wired the fuses inline, but amazon has an addable fuse block that looks great for wiring everything back to.

Can we get more threads like this please

Get a dozen bait bucket aerators like this one, place in bathtub, fill with dishsoap, run hot water.

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

http://amzn.com/B000XBCURW

That should treat your tonneau 3 or 4 times.

i use the goalpost thing in the back off my hitch receiver. and i use the foam blocks on the cab roof. it works well for me. i tie the front down using something like this it keeps everything tidy.

Just to throw another option out there - I use 12v bilge blower fans (similar to: SEAFLO 4" In-Line Marine Bilge Air Blower 12V 270 CFM Quiet Boat White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166S2PA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SscDCbTQMY3Y9). If you go with a 4" you can just use dryer vent to get it outside. You can also put a motor adjustment switch on it (12V Motor Speed Controller, DROK DC Motor Driver Board for Brush Motor 7V-60V 20A 420W PWM Control 12V 24V 36V 48V Regulator Cooling Fans Dimmer Governor Pulse Width Modulator with Adjust Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVGGWC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vvcDCbXK0FE4Z). These move a lot of air, which could help depending on the size of your run, etc.

On Amazon, there are two :

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection

​

And one with:

https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?

​

Which one do you all prefer???

Look into 303 Aerospace to protect the synthetic leather and vinyl dashboard.

Is your bedliner exposed to the sun? If so I would recommend a UV resistant product for it.

Such as 303 Aerospace. This can be bought in a very large volume, from Amazon, as well.

Any idea how that compares to something like 303 Aerospace? That's my go to for any trim/vinyl.

Look into getting something like these and tie the knot around them instead.

This is what I use. It's a little pricy but it's worth every penny in my opinion.

http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396471973&sr=8-1&keywords=aerospace+303

ew dude.

Let me introduce you to the solution to cracked dashes.

http://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW

Yeah, that thing looks like a fire waiting to happen..

Someone else linked this which has fuses:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469329101&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fuse+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51Wn79biAwL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

I use an inflatable while fishing. Much more comfortable than a I or III.

Similar to this:

http://www.amazon.com/Onyx-Co2-Automatic-Vest-Universal-Adult/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405525205&sr=8-1&keywords=inflatable+life+vest

I have the auto-inflate disabled, but if I was a non-swimmer I would not disable it.

303 aerospace protectant restores the gloss. I used it on the black plastic on my 2018 xlt.

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant, UV Protectant for Boats and Patio Furniture, 32 fl. Oz(package may vary)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yXJxDbNNYKNME

This is one product I’d use:

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant, UV Protectant for Boats and Patio Furniture, 32 fl. Oz(package may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xanSDbVC3S0F5

Heard it works well on car interiors in addition to tonneau covers for trucks.

UV exposure is what really impacted the fabric more than anything. I’ve got a different product I use on the rainfly for both my tent and hammock made by nikwax.

Does amazon ship to you?

Linky

I got the 3500 from amazon here: Plano 23500-00 Size Stowaway with Adjustable Dividers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E39T4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5jBTybCG28CN8

As for the 3600, I got it from my local Walmart in the fishing section. I checked amazon quickly and didn't spot the one I have on there. Sorry couldn't be more help!

Oh I see, I thought you meant exterior stripping. I apologize. Here is the link for 303. I use the gallon and distribute in spray bottles but for personal use that spray bottle will last quite some time.

I've not heard of that - but would this be it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/303-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass-Leather/dp/B0004ELKC4

I'm in England so maybe it's a name we're not used to here?

My Scenario & Encounter cards are sleeved in a BCW Deckbox. I also have a Dual Deckbox that I can hold the 3 pre-built core decks in. Tokens are held in a Plano 3500

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E39T4Q/ will hold all the tech squares, and can be passed around the table as needed.

http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Metal-Bubble-Portable-Pump/dp/B000EYULIS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1465186864&sr=1-1&keywords=aerator

there are cheap battery powered ones

Adjustable Air Pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CDR68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PeybBbG3WZGVG

Tubing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RbybBb2N07DFH

Also, a portable mini air pump (batteries required): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW

Use this on any plastic or rubber on the car.

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW

Would this be a good choice?

As a fellow Steeler fan in Texas (with a Terrible Towel near my office window), I sprayed a heavy coating of this on it. Seems to be holding up just fine.