Reddit mentions: The best boating & sailing accessories
We found 1,257 Reddit comments discussing the best boating & sailing accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 653 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. 303 Products 30306 Marine & Recreation Aerospace Protectant - 32 oz.
- ULTIMATE PROTECTION – 303 Marine Aerospace Protectant provides superior protection against the sun's damaging UV rays. This protector spray repels dust, dirt, and staining while also helping to prevent fading and cracking, to keep marine surfaces looking newer, longer.
- NON-GREASY – This restoration product dries to a smooth, matte finish with no oily or greasy residue. When treating your boat, canoe, kayak, or any other watersports toy, trust 303 Marine Aerospace Protectant to keep your prized possession looking like new.
- VERSATILE – This multi-purpose detailing spray restores and maintains a like-new appearance, texture, and color on a variety of surfaces including vinyl, plastic, synthetic and natural rubber, PVC, metal, gel coat, fiberglass, stainless steel, and more. Apply every 3 – 5 weeks for maximum UV protection.
- DIRECTIONS – Use only on clean, dry surfaces. For best results, use 303 Multi-Surface Cleaner to prep the surface. Place a drop cloth under the item to be treated to catch any overspray. Out of direct sun, spray product on surface and wipe completely dry with a clean, dry microfiber towel. Product can also be sprayed onto microfiber towel or applicator and applied to surface. If streaking occurs, too much product has been used. Use a wet towel to remove excess, and immediately wipe dry.
- SHELF LIFE – All 303 Products are good for use up to 2 years from the bottle fill date which can be found as a Julian Date being a 5-digit number on the back of the bottle and is read as YYDDD. YY indicates the last two digits of the year of production, and DDD represents the number of the day of that year of production. Proudly made in the USA by a family-owned company in Chicago, Illinois.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 13 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | May 2013 |
Size | 32 Fl Oz (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
2. Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover
- Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block ST Blade 12 Circuit with Ground and Cover, part number 5026, can be used for 24-hour circuits
- Max Amps: 100A per block, 30A per circuit, Max Volts: 32V DC, Mounting :#8 (M4) Screw, Negative bus: #10-32 stud, Positive bus: #10-32 stud, Recommended Stud torque: 24 in-lb, Screw Terminal Torque: 18in-lb, Screw terminal type: #8-32 screws with captive star lock washer
- Positive distribution bus with #10-32 stud
- Clear insulating cover with label recesses and storage for two fuses, satisfies ABYC/USCG insulation requirements and has a push button latch that is easy to open
- Accepts ring or spade type terminals and ATO/ATC fast acting blade fuses - fuses sold separately. Includes 20 write on circuit labels
Features:
Specs:
Color | Unspecified |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | January 2011 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.75 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
3. Seattle Sports Sherpak Hood Loops (Pair) - Under Hood Anchor Point for Tie Downs
- TIE DOWN ATTACHMENT POINT - Great for Vehicles with Plastic Bumpers That Have No Metal Attachment Points on the Chassis
- VERSATILE - Great Anchor Point for Tying Down and Stabilizing Kayaks or Other Cargo
- INSTRUCTIONS - These Innovative Loops
- LENGTH - 8" WIDTH - 1" (Sold in Pairs)
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 11.5 Inches |
Number of items | 2 |
Size | 8" |
Weight | 0.8 Pounds |
Width | 4.75 Inches |
4. Seattle Sports Sherpak Quick Loops - Fast Kayak and Canoe Tie Down Anchor Straps for Car Hoods and Trunks
VERSATILE - Use to Mount and Secure Kayaks and Canoes on Vehicles with No Lashing PointsSECURE - Works Under Hood and in the Trunk Where They Lock Into Place with Pressure, Securing the Bow and Stern in Place When Used in Conjunction with Tie DownsSIMPLE AND FAST - Quick, Easy, and Effective Solutio...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.06 Pounds |
Width | 4.75 Inches |
5. Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack,Medium
- Durable, versatile 14-liter roll-top/compression strap dry sack is a sleeping bag and clothing dry storage option for backpacking, camping, and water sports; valve-free expelling design for compact packing of bulky clothing and gear
- Manufactured from lightweight PU-coated 70D nylon, with a 40D nylon air permeable/waterproof base; 10,000mm waterhead (the higher the waterhead rating, the more waterproof the fabric)
- Reinforced waterproof seams are double-stitched, and tape sealed, with reinforced stitching at stress points; secure hypalon roll-top closure with four straps for even compression
- Pull handle on the bottom for hauling gear; patent-pending field repair buckle can be replaced in seconds
- 14-liter dry bag is ideal for a sleeping bag; open dimensions: 8 x 18 inches, weight: 5.2 ounces, compressed volume: 4.5 liters - 14 liters (with closure rolled three times)
Features:
Specs:
Color | Grey |
Height | 20 Inches |
Length | 9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 14 Liter |
Weight | 0.33 Pounds |
Width | 9 Inches |
6. ABSOLUTE OUTDOOR Onyx A/M-24 Automatic/Manual Inflatable Life Jacket
- Durable fabric resists tears and punctures
- Inflates with manual movement of T-cord or automatically upon immersion in water
- Lightweight, comfortable, slender design keeps you cool in warm weather
- Soft neoprene neckline for all day wearing comfort
- This item is not for sale in Catalina Island
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 0.05 Inches |
Length | 20 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | December 2009 |
Size | Over 80-Pounds |
Weight | 1.52 Pounds |
Width | 12 Inches |
7. Marine Metal Aeratr Bubble Box 1.5V
- Pumps 1.4 STL / minute
- Designed for fresh and saltwater use
- Space saver clam shell package 4"W x 7.5"Lx 2"D
- Pumps 1.4 STL/minute
- Designed for fresh and saltwater use
- Space saver clam shell package 4"W x 7.5"Lx 2"D
Features:
Specs:
Color | black and yellow and clear |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 7.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | - |
Weight | 0.4 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
8. Blue Sea Systems Common 150A 10-Gang BusBar with Cover
- 150A Common BusBar with 10 screws and a cover (part number 2300)
- Max voltage: 300V AC/ 48V DC, Continuous Rating: 130A AC/ 150A DC
- Terminal Screws: 10 x #8-32, Terminal Studs: 2 x 1/4"-20
- Reinforced polycarbonate base with tin plated pure electrical copper for maximum conductivity and corrision resistance
- 2 mounting holes accept #10 (M5) screws
Features:
Specs:
Color | With Cover |
Height | 8.94 Inches |
Length | 1.65 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.37 Pounds |
Width | 2.81 Inches |
9. Blue Sea Systems Fast Charge 4.8A Dual USB Charger Socket Mount, 12V/24V
- Black 12/24V Dual USB 4.8A socket mount charger with intelligent device recognition maximizes charge rate for phones, tablets, or other mobile devices
- Internal filtering for reduced electronic interference
- Conformal coated circuit board for the harsh marine environment
- Protective dust cap keeps debris and moisture out
- Maximum output current: 4.8A DC (total), input voltage range: 9V-32V DC, output voltage: 5V DC+/- 5%
- Over temperature protection, thermal overload protection, short circuit protection, and reverse polarity protection
- Mounts in common 1-1/8" (29 mm) diameter hole
Features:
Specs:
Color | 12/24V 4.8A, Socket Mount |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 6 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 12V/24V |
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
10. Onyx m 16 Belt Pack Manual Inflatable Life Jacket (PFD)
- Type V life vest belt pack
- Size: Adult
- Manual inflatable
- Color: black
- For paddleboard Use
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 11 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | October 2015 |
Size | Adult Universal |
Weight | 0.8125 Pounds |
Width | 8 Inches |
11. MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center
- This battery box / power center contains easy access external battery terminals that allow trolling motor leads and charger leads to be connected to the battery posts without opening the box
- Protects your battery (not included) on a small boat, transom application (boats that do not have battery compartments)
- Built-in, push button battery meter with 4 LEDs displays current “state of charge”
- Two 12-volt accessory plugs
- 60A resettable circuit breaker connected to top
- 10A resettable circuit breaker connected to two accessory ports
- Ring terminals on inside battery connectors
- Carrying handles on both sides
- Compatible with group 24 and 27 size batteries
- Overall dimensions: 7" x 13.5" wide x 12" tall
- Motor center ideal for small-boat transom applications
- Easy-access batter terminals for connecting leads
- Built-in battery meter displays current "state of charge"
- Designed to fit group 24- and 27-size batteries
- Offers pair of 12-volt accessory plugs and manual reset circuit breakers
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 15 Inches |
Length | 14.9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | January 2009 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 8.7 Inches |
12. Stohlquist Fisherman Personal Floatation Device, Cactus, Large/X-Large
500 dnier Cordura shell & 200 denier oxford linerHigh-back flotation rides above back rest.Neoprene padded shoulders and lower back waistband and open sides for ventilationHand wash soap and waterChina
Specs:
Color | Cactus |
Height | 5.511811018 Inches |
Length | 17.716535415 Inches |
Size | Large/X-Large |
Weight | 1.212542441 Pounds |
Width | 17.716535415 Inches |
13. Seattle Sports Sherpak Suction Boat Roller Load Assist for Mounting Kayaks and Canoes to Car Tops, One Size, Silver
- VERSATILE - Use to Mount Kayaks and Canoes on Most Vehicles Using the Suction Cups on Car Tops or Glass with 2 Different Mounting Angles
- SIMPLE - Offers a Quick, Easy Solution for a Single Person to Load a Boat to a Car Top
- HEAVY DUTY - Aluminum Bars and Strong Suction Cups Mount Reliably to Car Tops or Car Glass
- GENTLE - Closed Cell Foam Gently Cradles Boat During Loading and Unloading to Prevent Scratches
- DIMENSIONS - 6.75" Upright, 2.75" 90 Degrees x 27"
- Sport type: cycling
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 6.75 Inches |
Length | 2.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-Pack |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 27 Inches |
14. SEAFLO 4" In-Line Marine Bilge Air Blower 12V 270 CFM Quiet Boat White
- Voltage: 12V DC, Flow capacity: 270 CFM (Cubic Feet per minute)
- Current Draw: 6 Amp Draw, Suits 4" Diameter Hose
- Provides ventilation for engine compartments, galleys, bilges and heads
- White ABS plastic construction with built-in molded mounting brackets
- Corrosion proof design and water resistant motor casing for use in the marine environment
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 5.7 Inches |
Length | 8.2 Inches |
Width | 6.1 Inches |
15. Attwood 1749-4 Turbo 4000 Series II In-Line Blower, For 4-Inch Interior Diameter Vent Hose, Water Resistant, 12-Volt
- 12-volt, water-resistant white blower intended for use with 4-inch interior diameter vent hose; installs with #10 fasteners
- Marine ignition protected and has built-in mounting feet for easy vertical or horizontal installation
- Provides outstanding ventilation airflow for areas such as engine compartments, galleys, bilges, and heads
- Features a patented, in-line design and the 5-blade fan maximizes airflow and efficiency
- The blade sweep and pitch are engineered for a high lift coefficient, resulting in increased airflow speed for optimized ventilation
- For 7/8" I.D. thru-hull
- Ideal for livewell drains
- Brass snaps and plates
- Note: Not for use with chemicals or fuels
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 3.93700787 Inches |
Length | 4.9212598375 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 2010 |
Size | 4-Inch |
Weight | 1.2566348934 Pounds |
Width | 6.1023621985 Inches |
16. ONYX MoveVent Dynamic Paddle Sports Life Vest, Orange, Medium/Large
- 200 denier nylon ripstop and nylon oxford
- Mesh in lower back fits high back seats;
- Shoulder adjustments with neoprene comfort pads
- SOLAS grade reflective material for visibility
- Expandable zippered pockets with mesh drainage
- Heavy duty nylon fabric; soft, lightweight flotation foam
Features:
Specs:
Color | Orange |
Height | 36 Inches |
Length | 24 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | January 2018 |
Size | Medium/Large |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
17. Plano 23500-00 Size Stowaway with Adjustable Dividers
- Four dividers create 5-9 adjustable compartments
- Transparent for quick and easy identification of contents
- Tested for durability; Made using the highest quality components
- Includes Plano 3500 size StowAway, Plano brochure, nameplate order form
- Fits many Plano hard and soft systems; Intermediate size StowAway
- Dimensions: L 9.13 x W 5 x H 1.25 in Inches; Color: Clear
- Limited Lifetime Warranty; Made in the USA
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | January 2006 |
Size | Single Pack |
Weight | 0.2976240537 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
18. 303 30340CSR Marine UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More – Dust and Dirt Repellant-Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 16 Fl. oz
Powerful UV blockers prevent fading, cracking and premature agingDries to a clear matte finishRestores lost color and lusterEasy to use: Simply spray on and wipe drySafe and effective for: vinyl, Plexiglas, carbon fiber, rubber, plastics and finished leatherfit type: Universal
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 10.9 Inches |
Length | 1.858 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | May 2013 |
Size | 16 Fl Oz (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 3.792 Inches |
19. Intex Trolling Motor for Intex Inflatable Boats, 36" Shaft
- Designed for Intex boats, includes Challenger 3, Seahawk 2, 3, 4, Excursion 3, 4, 5 and Mariner 3 and 4. Compatible with most inflatable boats that have built-in motor mount fittings.
- Control panel: Battery meter, automatic escape weed control key, dry operation protect, overload protect controls.
- Adjustable handle: Handle tilts upward: 45, 30, 15, 0 degrees . Handle tilts downward: 0 – 75 degrees. Handles extends 6 inches (15cm). Handle speed control: Forward: 5 speeds, OFF, Reverse: 3 speeds.
- Maximum Power (W): 420W. Voltage: 12V DC. Thrust: 40 lbs/180N. Shaft length in inches: 36 (91.40cm). Suitable for: Freshwater and saltwater.
- Requires (not included): A deep cycle marine 12 volt battery with at least 60 ampere hours rating.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multicolor |
Height | 47.25 Inches |
Length | 9 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | May 2021 |
Size | 1 size |
Weight | 24 Pounds |
Width | 18.13 Inches |
20. GCI Outdoor SitBacker Adjustable Canoe Seat with Back Support
- Patented BackComfort Technology for customized reclining
- Patented single buckle Auto-Fold Technology with Portage Lock shoulder strap for easy folding and carrying
- Dual buckle bench attachment and storage pocket
- Supports 250 lbs yet weighs only 3 lbs
- Measures 11” x 16.5” x 18” when open and folds to 16.5” x 16.5” x 5.5”
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.7 Inches |
Length | 16.5 Inches |
Release date | September 2010 |
Weight | 3.45 Pounds |
Width | 16.5 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on boating & sailing accessories
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where boating & sailing accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I'm 26 and 200 (with around 30 pounds of tackle, anchor, fishfinder, battery, etc. on board as well) with what I'd like to think is a pretty good sense of balance. I added a stand assist strap, and I can stand up in calm water to stretch and do some spotting, but anything more than that gets pretty darn sketchy.
I have yet to take mine into saltwater, but I absolutely don't see why not. It's actually 12'6", and I feel that the effective beam is much closer to 28" instead of the advertised 30". All things considered, it's a pretty quick boat for its class.
This is my mounting setup for my Garmin 5DV. I got a smokin' deal on it, which came in handy because RAM mounts are surprisingly expensive. Worth every penny so far though. I think the lighter-duty (and slightly shorter, which was the killer for me) RAM mount for a 4DV or other, vertical-screen fishfinder is close to half the price of the one I got though. All in all, a pretty easy install, just be wary of hidden costs such as transducer arm, battery, mounts, jerry-rigging hardware, etc. I suppose the good news is that I could move this setup to damn near any kayak (or even real boat) I want in the future with very minimal fuss.
Definitely cartoppable with the help of some load assist devices. Grab one of these and consider using a set of saddles that have rollers. I'm personally using a pair of Yakima Mako Saddles and a pair of Yakima Hully Rollers on my 2015 Subaru Impreza hatchback. If you're planning on using those sketchy foam blocks.... well..... good luck?
One important point to consider is that the stock seat is total dogshit. I bought one of these and added a 1.5" ass-pad underneath it and I gained worlds of comfort while still retaining a relatively low, efficient paddling position. I'm of the opinion that all of the fancy lawn chair setups found in higher-end kayaks, while supremely comfortable, aren't high enough to really provide much of a vision advantage while at the same time add a serious detriment to your paddling efficiency. To be fair, when I learned to kayak as a kid, it was through whitewater, so my ideas surrounding paddling are probably somewhat biased.
I seed and sawed on getting this model boat, among others, for months while I worked up funds for it, and then suddenly my friend offered to sell me his, barely used and with a fiberglass shaft paddle of correct length, for $250, leaving me plenty of funds to modify it to my liking.
Update:
The bottom is a hard line keel for both the Pungo and the Loon. The Loon has sloping sides, whereas the Pungo is hard-chined. I wouldn't think there would be much performance difference, but the stability of the Pungo could be a bit better. Don't have pics of that.
I have had the Loon out on the water like 5 times now. It handled the first time with a bit of chop pretty well. Then three of the times, in placid water, it was so sleek it was like a dream. The other time it was in moderate chop, it did feel stable, but I didn't venture too far from shore.
It tracks very well, turns on what to me feels like a dime. My friend had a LL Bean Manatee (10') and I easily went in circles around it in terms of speed and tracking.
Here are two other pics for reference on the water. I like the side view because it shows how low in the water it sits. I believe this is good for flat-water kayaking since it reduces the wind drag. It moderately protects against water coming over the bow, but I'm sure a touring or sea kayak would be better in that department: http://imgur.com/a/N617B
Finally, it is soooo comfortable, at least compared with numerous rental boats I've tried over the years. I could sit in it for hours. Width and length are great to stretch out, and the seat is awesome. I'd recommend getting a high back PFD. I literally tried 5 of them with the kayak, and the two best for me were: Astral http://amzn.to/29rVAMB and Onyx: http://amzn.to/2920ZrR (the one I bought)
The yeti is nice, i have never used one. Some say it is overpriced, but you have to admit that it is a nice simple all in one thing - battery, usb,300 watt pure sine wave inverter, and can charge from 120 vac,12vdc,or solar.
It is what it is, 33Ah battery so if that is not enough then what? If you are going to charge from 12 (like your car) you will need hours and hours. Now if you are willing to put an isolator on you van/car? you could charge faster than a cigarette lighter socket but then you are adding complexity for just using occasionally. So if you can live with the capacity then it's a neat package.
The prices for the big yeti are over $1.4K ? I think that is 100Ah of battery. I think that would get you through a weekend with enough spare energy as to not have to ration. idk And this would just be charged at home or if you find 120vac while you are away.
I will think it over more as it is late for me. But what I have done before is to use a battery box and a separate inverter. The box and battery(battery is bad now) I owned from the trolling motor set up for my canoe. It is not a clean set up but can be used in pieces as you like. So if you have separate pieces and your battery runs low you just hook up the inverter to the van, and don't run out of fun times.
here are some amazon links - non referrals so take a look and seeif you get what I mean.
https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG Nice thing here is it will hold any battery up to group 24 or 27
https://www.amazon.com/VMAXMB127-Battery-Replacement-Caddy-Golf/dp/B00BDV7OO0 I just picked a 100Ah battery at random
https://www.amazon.com/Wagan-EL2601-Elite-400W-Inverter/dp/B007Y4BL1C
https://www.amazon.com/VMAXTANKS-Maintainer-Automobile-Batteries-maintain/dp/B00IZV91Q0/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IZV91Q0&pd_rd_r=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905&pd_rd_w=uLdL1&pd_rd_wg=0Vigf&psc=1&refRID=2VBEJM4WJG5N3CAX8905 Any GOOD battery charger will do.
So like $500, but you now own a nice box, battery, charger, and inverter. So play with the idea and see if it would fit your style. Just an option.
Here is what some guy did with $1000 and you could scale this to your needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=offgcMwuTGw
Sorry for the mess of a post.
Good luck and have fun. Be sure to let the sub know what you come up with.
We love our popup, it's a 2001 Flagstaff that is only a couple years old to us, but was well cared for by the previous owners. I live up north so keeping food out of it so mice aren't lured in in the winter is a big priority up here.
Really there isn't much to keeping them nice. If you are able to keep it stored out of the weather when you're not camping with it, that will really help it hold up longer. If you ever have to pack up while the canvas is damp or wet be sure to pop it back up to dry fully when you get home. I would also use something like 303 protectant to cover the solid vinyl portions of the tent if you have that material. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B000XBCURW
We pretty much never eat in ours and never cook in ours. It's so much easier to cook and eat outside and it keeps food from getting on cushions and prevents crumbs from luring in mice like I stated above.
It sounds like you plan on camping mostly with power based on your AC requirement, if you will be at more primitive sites every be sure you have a good battery. If you were serious about getting the most out of your battery you'd want to switch to LED lights and install dual 6v batteries.
http://popupportal.com is a useful resource.
It just so happened that a lot of Eureka stuff was on sale at the time I was shopping, so I look like something of a fanboy.
My list would look something like this...
Kenwood TS-480SAT - $849.95
Satisfies the portable requirement without the QRP-ness. Easily connects to your computer for digital modes, negating the need to purchase a Signalink.
Antennas are a tricky subject. I'd steer clear of the 40m hamstick, it's going to be quite inefficient and 40m isn't a particularly great daytime band, I'd be looking at 20m if you plan on doing most of your hamming during the daylit hours. Maybe get something like an end fed matchbox wire or OCF dipole, easy to deploy, transport, and tune across multiple bands with a built in rig tuner. A full size MFJ 20m vertical telescoping whip is also a good choice and is going to be a great deal more efficient than a 40m hamstick. Don't skimp here, buy the most antenna you can afford within your setup limitations.
Cost - Variable ~$40 - $100+.
What size of battery are you looking for? A small SLA type to transport in a backpack for hiking for maybe an hour or two of operation, or a big automotive type battery to transport to an operation site in a vehicle and last all day? Every single car type battery sold in this country is made by 1 of 3 companies -Delphi, Exide and Johnson Controls, just with a different retailers label slapped on it, so buy the cheapest deep cycle battery you can find that meets your size and amp hour requirements. Costco is a great choice if you have a membership or Wal-Mart because they cycle through their inventory quickly and you won't be buying a battery that's been sitting on a shelf for a year.
A nice big group 31 battery will run you ~ $100. Cheaper if you go smaller.
I'd recommend a nice battery box like this to put it in. - $50
A decent battery charger will set you back about $40. Maybe a bit cheaper if you shop around a bit. If you have a Harbor Freight nearby, they actually have a pretty good battery charger that they put on sale frequently for 25 bucks or so.
We're up to $1040 without antenna. That leaves you $250 to play with for an antenna and any other incidentals like coax cable, connectors, antenna mounts and the like.
Also, unless you plan on running off the battery all the time, you haven't budgeted for a power supply for fixed station operation. A 100W rig will need a 20A power supply and that will set you back about $100 for something that isn't trash.
Do you already have a power supply for fixed operation? If no, you'll be running off the battery all the time. A 20A power supply that isn't garbage will set you back about $100.
1.
Which wires specifically? In general, I was planning on going for heat-shrink solder terminal connectors and crimp connectors.
One of the reasons I posted this is because there are quite a few connectors and I am still not entirely 100% sure what I need. Obviously when screwing something in to a screw terminal block, the ring crimp connectors. But when joining wires, I would prefer to use the heat-shrink-solder type, but there are also butts and blades (heh).
I bought this set of terminals, figured I'd need them anyways: Assorted crimp terminals
I am probably going to buy this set of solder terminals: Fancy solder terminals
I am pretty good at soldering (though usually circuit boards, not automotive wires, hence not entirely knowing what to do.) I have easy access to a heat gun as well.
2.
Well, both - the breaker goes on the battery, and it sets the maximum amperage for the entire new fuse block and everything attached to it. The fuses go for each individual circuit. I want to use just one fuse for each circuit, instead of having several different circuits sitting on the same fuse, largely for my own desire for neatness and debug-ability. I could have one main fuse instead of the main breaker, but I figure that they will serve the same function and I may as well go for the re-usable option.
I was going to go for this breaker: Fat breaker
That said, I bought this fuse kit, which includes up to a 35A fuse, which will be more than enough. I also bought this fuse holder, in case I decide to use one main fuse instead of one main breaker. (I figured I'd need both of these anyways for some project, may as well get them even if I don't use them right now.)
Fuse Kit
In-line Fuse Holder
---
In general, I think my system will basically look like this:
Battery 12V + Breaker = safe 12V
Save 12V + ignition 12V (do I need a fuse here?) + Relay = ignition-switched 12V
Ignition-hot 12V + Fuse Block + ATC/ATO Fuses = eight fused circuits
Fused circuits, obviously, feeding from above. I will probably add a 20A switch in line with high-power circuits, just in case, as an emergency switch.
Fused circuits will terminate at something like this Ground Bar.
 
What do you think of this proposed setup?
I do realize that it's kind of overkill for what I want.
But you can probably agree that overkill is better than your car burning down!
Defer to your further research as to whether it is OK to fix it up or get a new one. It does look a bit worn out from my perspective, but if it holds you and it is leak free, might be worthwhile. My advice would be to stick close to shore though :)
What you have is a type of "touring" kayak, which will be fine for a local lake. If you're looking for something with a larger opening, get a recreational kayak instead. Types are reviewed here: https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/kayak.html
Definitely a good idea if you have a pool to watch some Youtube videos and try out techniques.
As for paddle, I can recommend https://www.rei.com/product/766595/bending-branches-whisper-paddle
For PFD (personal flotation device), I recommend https://www.amazon.com/MoveVent-Dynamic-Paddle-Sports-Orange/dp/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491528039&sr=8-1&keywords=onyx+life+jacket
Also, you'll need to think about how to transport it. For instance, last year I owned a recreational kayak, and had it on the roof of my car using the following:
foam to protect the car and on which to place the kayak: https://www.rei.com/product/672423/riverside-universal-kayak-replacement-foam-blocks
straps secured over the sides and tied through my car windows: https://www.rei.com/product/853269/riverside-heavy-duty-utility-straps-twin-pack-15-ft
tie-downs for the front and back, and secure it to a metal non-moving piece of the car: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHQHYPI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Modified boating stuff:
A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.
Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.
Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.
Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.
Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.
I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.
They make 12v tvs with built in dvd players. They're a bit cheaply made but they cost less than the inverter.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Naxa-19-LED-TV-DVD-Media-Player-12V-AC-DC-w-Car-Package-Car-Truck-Camper/182500581988/
These are nice and charge fast. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1MTAA
And should work fine for your Switch. If the price is a bit much, there are these, which will charge slower:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0082CXEI8
There are these: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Volt-Socket/dp/B004XIWF12
Which will allow you to plug in a 12v fan.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Zone-Tech-12V-Oscillating-Fan-Includes-clamp-and-Screws-for-Easy-Attachment-to-either-the-Console-or-Dash/188629593
If it were me I'd replace all your bulbs with LED bulbs, I get mine here: https://www.superbrightleds.com/
That'll greatly reduce your current draw.
I have this solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Compact-Design/dp/B07GF5JY35 and this solar controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075NQQRPD
For a small system that solar controller can handle both the charging and monitoring the battery. It's also got bluetooth so you can monitor it over time, if you're a big nerd like I am.
I just designed and built the electrical system in my boat so this is all fresh in my mind.
Anything you add, be sure it's properly fused to protect the wire running to the device and that you're using the right size wire. This is the best place I've found to get wire and supplies for that: http://www.genuinedealz.com/
Hope all that helps.
Links to materials:
About the container:
Using a fishing stowaway tackle box and some foam, it's really easy to make a neat little container to hold all your TTRPG stuff. You can stack more or less layers of foam inside divisions to make it easier to reach (the potions have 3 layers) or to make more room for bigger things (the d20s only have 1 layer). Half-divisions hold standard 1-inch base miniatures perfectly (the fairy lady is a metal mini printed off Hero Forge).
The tackle box used is one of the larger sizes Plano has to offer, but if you don't have as much stuff to stash, the Plano Prolatch 3600 or the Plano Prolatch 3500 are smaller options that also work great. These sizes are better for players who want a case like this or DMs with nothing else but a couple dice sets and some minis.
Keep in mind that there will be a lot of foam left over. The 2-3700 only required two or three sheets of foam to triple-stack the entire container, and I got myself a 10-pack. If you need to get rid of the extra foam, getting a couple 3500's for your players is a nice gift, considering they only run about $4 each. I got a four-pack of the 2-3700's since most of my players also DM, so hopefully that uses up the rest of the 10-pack of foam.
This is the fan I used for mine, it's borderline leaf blower status and fits 4" flexible dryer exhaust tube perfectly. Draws 2.5A. Highly recommended.
Attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9XLCzbD3X657Y
Using a float switch is also a good idea, so you don't run it dry and burn out your pump.
The more holes you can drill in the bucket (without compromising its integrity and leaving a reasonable volume for water at the bottom) the better. More surface area means more evaporation.
I had issues with mine leaking the first year. I found I had much better luck cutting the outer pad so that it's pushed against the inside of the bucket. I put the vinyl tube hoop on top of the inner pad, and tied it with thread so it can't move. It doesn't leak at all using this method, as the outer pad only gets damp by soaking up water from the saturated inner pad. And it works better, because there is no gap between the pad and the bucket for air to go through, it has to all flow through the pads.
http://imgur.com/a/0SyOy
Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).
Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.
If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.
As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.
A few more things:
Camco 40043 TastePURE RV/Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Camco RV Brass Inline Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
These are fun but not a requirement:
MPOWERD Luci Solar String Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYPDPKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MPOWERD 1004-005-001-002 Luci Lux... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JSCMPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Again not a necessity but I like it, keeps your water house pointed down not out
The Everything Candida Diet Book:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD03K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Love this because depending on where you are, it’s really nice to have an extra water source for washing things and keeping dust down on the road
2wayz All Metal Body Garden Hose Splitter. Newly Upgraded (2017): 100% Secured, Bolted & Threaded. Easy Grip, Smooth Long Handles y Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MS0HK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOhxDb2J6NVSQ
I'm giving you US links just to let you know what I'm talking about but you shouldn't have any trouble finding them elsewhere.
The only thing I can help with is floor mats. Get WeatherTech floor mats. They fit the best and hold a ton of water/mud/whatever. Use some 303 Protectant on them and they will look brand new for a very long time.
303 protectant is also excellent for your dash and any interior plastic. It's like sunscreen for your interior and won't dry out your dash like armor all or other petroleum based protectants. Also doesn't leave a super glossy finish like armor all, that just attracts dust right after you put it on.
Toyota Yaris hatchback owner here.
Inspired by an item I saw on Amazon, my DIY solution was to make a set of loops to slide into the rear hatch door. I did so using nothing more than some 1" nylon webbing, some old synthetic wine corks, and a sewing machine -- shown HERE ... 'zon version HERE.
As it happens, they fit perfectly in between the gap on the Yaris and are super secure. I would note that I use cam buckle straps, rather than ratchet straps, though. This ensures that I never over-tighten the rigging and damage either the car or kayak.
I made similar loops for under the hood of the car, affixed directly to the frame of the car using existing bolts, as a place to run the guyline from the front of the kayak, as to not damage the paint on the car (though looking at my picture, you might wonder why I care; horray sun damage!)
You may not be able to use this exact make and model, but this loading technique is effective. And really, you can duplicate it on whatever rack you have by removing the crossbar's end cap and using a piece of rebar steel (assuming you use a rack with exposed crossbar ends). This would be the cheapest option.
If you don't have exposed crossbar ends, then another thing you can do to load a kayak onto a normal car like yours, is to use a kayak cart as a "roller" by turning it upside down and placing it on the trunk or back windsheld of your car (depending on the shape of your cart and contours of your particular car). Video demo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wnzk1VOJa0
If you're not able to do that for some reason, or don't need to own a kayak cart, they sell something that accomplishes the same thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Sherpak-Boat-Roller/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009PAAI5I&pd_rd_r=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE&pd_rd_w=zCMiP&pd_rd_wg=k1tUj&psc=1&refRID=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE
Hope that helps.
I had bought specific kayaking ones, but these I found on ebay and are so comfortable. Plus it was like 10 bucks or something. I can find the link to the item if people are interested.
Edit: I couldn't find the same product, but this one has a similar cut and shape http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Swimming-Life-Jacket-Boating-Kayaking-Surfing-SUP-Buoyancy-Aid-Fishing-Vest-/322494891715?hash=item4b163186c3
Alternatively, I also bought this one I bought one. Almost as comfortable but the back was too high so I would end up leaning and sitting too far back. These fit the kids perfectly though https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00FI3FAZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And since we're talking about PFDs, this is the one I use for the sausage puppy https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01GPOUOZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looking good! Nice work! Now that you've got them nice and clean be sure to give them a generous coat of protectant. I have been extremely pleased with 303 UV Protectant. It will not only give the pads a great shine, but it also will protect them from UV and hinder future mildew growth.
I have been using THIS for my interior (dashboard and door panels). So far I am liking it.
I heard positive reviews of 303 Spray
Which one do you recommend? Or is there any product more best bang for my buck?
Thank you!
Most of my trips are more canoe based with portaging so we are still trying to go a little light. I use heavier duty 20 Liter rubber dry bags for cookware and misc gear, like my helinox chair things of this nature. Things in these bags are designed to shut up and left outside overnight. (Normally under the vestibule)
For tent gear or for anything really Get Sea to summit event stuff sacks. Spendy but worth it. After you use them, you will wonder why you werent using waterproof stuff sacks all along.
They are compression waterproof bags. They are perfect. I use mine all the time. You can search the comments in the Amazon link for how many liters each bag is. I think I have a medium and large. I use one the smaller one for all my clothes and the larger one for my sleep system. Pad, bag, pillow, tent light etc. I couldnt be happier with them. I then put those stuff bags into my larger portage bag.
For those other things you mention just use a different sized very small dry bags or ziplocks. I keep my toiletries in a ziplock then that goes into one of the dry bags. I find this system of organizing is simple. Easy to remember where everything goes, which helps you lose less things at camp and is fast to pack and unpack.
https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Summit-eVent-Compression-Medium/dp/B000NQQ5A0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499492514&sr=8-1&keywords=event+stuff+sack
Hope this helps
A friend of mine has a similar canoe with the molded seats. I've found the standard seats like this one work perfectly fine. And by fine I mean I've been comfortable after paddling up to 5 hours straight.
https://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I
Can someone recommend me the best battery / power center / whatever else I'll need. I just bought this boat yesterday from Amazon and also picked up the trolling motor, here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QIB7K8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon suggests I buy the Minn-Kota battery and power center. Is that the best option or is there a better one? I read some shady reviews on the power center.
Here’s my write up on JeepForum
This is the fuse block I used
I used 6-position covered terminal blocks similar to these, although I got them for $3/ea at a local store
This was my ground bus bar. it was cheaper when I bought it, and 10-position is nice but I probably could’ve gotten away with less
These are the waterproof sealed relays I would recommend
This is the circuit breaker I wish I used, but I had the 150A on hand. I’ll probably swap it out at some point
Edit: to add on, I used heatshrink on noninsulated female disconnects so that I could have everything properly color coordinated for easier work if I needed to make repairs/modifications in the future. I only used 1/4” Red/Yellow/Black HS on the board :)
EDIT 2: I used the wrong link for my writeup. It's fixed now!
Footwear is going to depend on what exactly you are doing. On trawling/dredging trips, I have a pair of shrimper boots (I prefer the taller boots, which are better at keeping water out of them). For wading, I have two sets of wading boots. I have soft wade boots, which are easier to put on and sufficient for mud/sand. I also have harder soled wade boots that last longer when you are frequently on rocks or oysters shells. I've even used a pair of hiking boots, which honestly lasted the longest but looked less professional. I also know a couple of people that swear by neoprene boots like these.
I also recommend that you get a UV Buff. Partly it's because I hate being covered in sunscreen. But it also protects you from wind and cold.
Get a decent pair of polarized sunglasses. Pick a lens color that is suitable for the waters where you are working. (I think you are technically supposed to use blue/green for oceanic waters, but I've always preferred a brown lens)
UV longleeves are a decent temperature-regulating alternative to the Columbia button-downs (they are basically just under armour shirts). Also I recommend looking into some cheaper off-brands (Columbia is expensive!). But DO NOT get the Columbia-style button downs with velcro in place of buttons at the collars/sleeves.
I also recommend investing in an inflatable life jacket. They tend to get in the way less when you are trying to work out on the water.
Here's what we did to store our TI4 in the box. I stole the idea from user bigegg on the bgg forums in this thread--
https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1885145/storage-solution-box
Some of his details are incorrect and he has no references for what he actually used or bought, so that's what I'm doing here.
Ground force tokens, trade good tokens, and other misc things go in one of these: (EDIT: we clipped off the little hanger thing on the end because it made the box just barely not fit) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E39T4Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Action card deck and Agenda deck each gets one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002TT3KW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seventeen of these for the race tokens and cards, one for the planet deck, and one for the objective deck, for a total of nineteen:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002TT3KM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lastly, these six boxes are for the ships and the colored cards--the tech decks and promissory notes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2DREPO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Everything all together was around $50.
We cut the planet tray out of the rest of the tray with a box knife, and we put the strategy cards atop one of the stacks of planets. The victory track we ended up moving to the top of the race boxes so it would lay flat. Other than that, the books and stuff sit on top of everything, and the box closes up no problem. It's considerably heavier than before due to all the added plastic, of course, but it's looking like cleanup and set up will be much easier with this method because all anybody will need to grab is their color box and their race box. Hope this helps!
Edit: Ah also forgot to mention--we sleeved everything in these. They are thinner than the FFG ones and therefore fit in our plastic cases:
https://www.amazon.com/Mayday-Games-Sleeves-41x63mm-sleeves/dp/B06XZGN51N/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511979051&sr=8-4&keywords=mini+card+sleeves
I don't think I have the original one but I used it in one of these and it worked great. I'll include it if u want. I think it's a medium size, but I know it fits great with this bag.
Sea to Summit eVent Compression Dry Sack,Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NQQ5A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-Ei.Bb3JPGYNC
If you go the kayak route, you can save a bundle for your roof racks if you already have the rails on your vehicle.
These have great reviews on Amazon. I just bought them and used them twice with success. You can also throw in these loops for securing the bows and sterns to your vehicle.
Never tried but I bet the clear plastic organizers for fishing lures would work great.
Edit: like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E39T4Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1427844199&sr=8-2&keywords=Plano
This is what I use for pretty much all my FFG games. It doesn't look like the image on the page, if you scroll down to the first review (where they're storing 7 Wonders tokens in it), it looks like that. It's great for Legion because one of the wide sections without any dividers in it holds the movement tools and the four range ruler pieces, while all the tokens fit in the other two rows easily.
This is the same problem we had when learning how to setup the electrical system and I feel like rarely talked about. You need a fuse block like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469329101&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fuse+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51Wn79biAwL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
You run a wire from your charge controller (load +) to the + terminal on the fuse block and another to the - terminal. You can then wire all your 12v outlets and appliances (lighting, vent fan, etc) to that and mark on the cover what wire is what so you know when doing repair/maintenance
We'll be recording and posting a video about this in the near future because I feel like the little details in electrical are not talked about and require a lot of research for first timers. Feel free to ask more questions and we'll try to help! 😃😃
Edit: I forgot to add some info about the ground. With an off grid system like yours, it is usually a closed system which means you don't have a ground. Just positive and negative wires going to and from the battery/charge controller/fuse panel.
I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.
I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.
Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife
Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/
Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard
RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv
Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.
The marine lab I've worked at/taken classes at is stocked up with these. They clip them to the sides of 5 gallon buckets. If they find anything interesting in the field, they throw it in the bucket and it's usually good until they get back. Good enough for them, good enough for me!
Also, OP, you live in Florida? Good news is, if a hurricane wipes your power, your fish won't freeze as long as it's not one of those weird out-of-season ones.
You're most welcome! I bought the following:
4x100W Panels
Panel Mounting
Solar Panel Connectors
Tool Crimper
Assembly Tool
Panel Connectors
Power Information
CTEK Charger
CTEK SmartPass
200ah AMG Battery
Fuse Block
300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
LED Strip
Dometic 35 Fridge
I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.
I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \
EDIT: Adding info.
Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).
https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Terminal-Connector-Cable/dp/B00URTHQTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442293&sr=1-1&keywords=yeti+1250+terminal+ring
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442487&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+box+12
Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-47453-4-Gauge-Battery-Assembly/dp/B00JGJGCV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442659&sr=8-9&keywords=4+awg+cable
For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.
https://www.amazon.com/PRIMARY-POWER-GROUND-100FT-ROLLS/dp/B00OU0IIFU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442827&sr=1-6&keywords=12+gauge+wire
For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.
https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-GROUND-PRIMARY-STRANDED-COPPER/dp/B01C7O8166/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442902&sr=1-6&keywords=10+gauge+wire.
Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/57/22/80/57228076ef240ed796b328a7d6387eac.jpg
Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.
https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D8HIQ2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443951&sr=1-4&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors
https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Electrical-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01E7SY49I/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496444024&sr=1-11&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svja8zEcKNQ&t=9s
https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443370&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=wire+stripping+pliers+irwin
You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.
Are you really set on solar? Depends on how much you drive but you maybe better off with an alternator connection. What type of fan are you using? You maybe able to go a little smaller than 100 amp hrs. That is a lot for just a laptop/phone/electronics lights.
A good example of how simple 12V can be is this box
https://www.amazon.com/MinnKota-Trolling-Motor-Power-Center/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1496277131&sr=8-8&keywords=battery+box+27
It has a few inline breakers (10 amp and 60 amp) in the box for the 12V outlets.
Look for a local outfitter, the family owned and ran type store. I have always had the best luck with them, and the customer service is untouchable. They go that extra mile to make sure you return.
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I had an older Jeep but it did just fine ..I got some rack pads and tied it down bow and stern as well as side to side.....these work really well for the front of the car.
I have this toy, its definitely one of my crown jewels/favorite out of my collection, OPs picture leaves a bit to be desired in the posing and environment department, but it is truly impressive. If you do decide to go after it it, there are two versions - the 2nd release with "sound" is the one you want. The first release is less detailed and had defective rubber. Even if you do have/get the newer release I highly recommend a yearly treatment of "303 aerospace protectant" on all the rubber parts of this, particularly the head/dome.
I love the FJ because its after market and owners support is strong.
If you live in a place where road salt is used, take the car through a wash when it's above freezing and not showing during the winter. Make sure you choose the option that will spray off your underbody.
And NEVER take the thing through a regular car wash (a quick-service one that has machines or people touching it). This will damage your paint/glass as the dirt from every car before you gets smeared into your own. Touchless car washes are a much better choice and are pretty easy to find. They are not any more expensive.
I also recommend getting a bottle of Aerospace 303 and applying it to rubber/plastic surfaces that sit in direct sunlight. It helps preserve the materials from fading/cracking and adds a nice subtle sheen.
If you really want to go crazy, jump down the r/autodetailing rabbithole.
MOAR TACKLE
Canopy Grenades
S-Wavers
Whopper Ploppers
Phenix Abyss 808
A few G Loomis Rods in your price range
New PFD
Sort of impersonal, but anybody would love a Tackle Warehouse Gift Card.
If you know where he puts in, you could also buy a years worth of launching fees.
If you HAVE to evac and you really want to save him get one of these and a 5g bait bucket from a fishing store.
Make sure the bucket lid has screen or holes.
Make sure and put a layer of substrate from your tank and load some plants in there. Stock up on batteries. Don't leave him in direct sun.
r/StormComing has good info regularly updated.
Source: Been there done that. Hurricane Opal.
> but I don't want to have to tie down the front (like you have on your fenders) or the rears,
It's actually under the hood and under the trunk. There is nowhere on the frame of my wife's car to attach something. To be honest, it didn't feel necessary to do the front and back because the mount held it in place very well. But, I feel like it's a backup in case the mount comes off the rack itself.
You can do a combo like this for pretty close to your budget. The boat itself is surprisingly resilient, collapses down to a (heavy) bag for your apartment. Motor mounts on securely. Plan for some occasional vinyl repairs, and you have to deal with a battery and charging, but it'll putt you around until you want to get into something more permanent. I use this as a dinghy for a powerboat and it works great. I added a small solar panel ($75) and converter unit ($15) so it charges the battery when it's parked for a while.
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Intex Excursion 5
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Excursion-5-Person-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B00CMBJ1VE/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536084088&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=intex+boat&psc=1
​
Intex electric trolling motor
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Trolling-Motor-Inflatable-Boats/dp/B005QIB7K8/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084206&sr=1-5&keywords=intex+trolling+motor
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Motor mount
https://www.amazon.com/Intex-Motor-Mount-inflatable-Boats/dp/B000NNM4BW/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1536084263&sr=1-5&keywords=Intex+Motor+Mount+Kit+inflatable+Boats
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There is a way (though not so easy) to haul kayaks on your JK - to address some of your concerns:
For easy bow line connection point - this might work
They mount under the hood and flip under the hood when not in use...
For the kayak/canoe to be on the roof - I've seen a configuration where:
There was a square tube mount that mounted directly the the sides of the windshield and the rear set of cross bars was actually a T rack that was mounted on the hitch...the windshield mount looked something like this, but I recall it bolted directly to the sides of the windshield in the factory holes...thinking more about it, I don't think it was a JK. The rear looked like this
As for seats soaking up mud...Its a Jeep! ;-)....maybe consider neoprene seat covers?
First, my needs:
Second, the components:
Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!
The red cable going to the bottom of each is probably the feed. There's a ground bus at the top of these blocks that OP isn't using, presumably in favor of those giant bus bars.
Edit: pretty sure they're these, and you can see the feed lug at the bottom in the "open" pictures. :)
Please use clean amazon links like:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1MTAA/
Or else reddit flags your messages for moderator review. Thanks.
Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:
Amazon Smile Link: http://smile.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_15
|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|
To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.
This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.
Hello fellow 'yaker! Greetings from the frozen plains of Iowa. One tip I have: I got a pair of hood tie downs like this: Seattle Sports Built USA Sherpa Hood Loops (Pair) - Under Hood Anchor Point for Tie Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyJxCb2WCCZXS
Find a bolt that goes into the body near the hood line. Then the straps stick between the hood and the body. I tuck them out of the way under the hood when not in use. Looks cleaner and doesn't rub on the paint at all when attached to the front of the kayaks. Happy trails ✌️
Have you done the previous maintenance intervals? i.e. fluid flushes (transmission, coolant, brake fluid, spark plugs)? Recommend using DOT 5.1 brake fluid, and long life coolant/trans fluid.
Not sure on the civic, but if it uses a timing chain (which it probably does) it's probably due for an adjustment. If it uses a belt you need to change that ASAP. Honda lists their belt replacement at 7 years or 110k miles, whichever comes first.
Might be a good time to replace the battery before it leaves you stranded.
For other minor things, I would:
These are great, and waterproof as for size, take measurements and get one a little smaller Than the width of your sac rolled up as tight as you can get it. Length shouldn't be a problem.
Aside from that, get an inexpensive down bag. I have the Kelty Cosmic Down 20. It runs anywhere from $99.00 to $160 depending on where you get it and current sales. Great bag, packs down as small as a football with a compression sack.
Nice! May keep an eye on them to make sure they don't start fading. I know some of the micro-suede fabrics like to do that. I actually sprayed down (lightly) my alcantara to help prevent fading with this stuff
Here's the /r/autodetailing answer for you:
I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.
I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.
Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.
Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.
Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.
It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.
This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.
I don't have the same kayak (I've got a Pescador 12), but had the same problem as you with the seat area being concaved. What I did that really made for a comfortable day on the water was to buy a canoe seat like this one-- https://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I -- and then take some PVC and sort of fit it around the concave area to try and make a flat area for the seat to set on. Googling "PVC kayak seat" was always a good starting point for me.
Get a fuse box like this then attach wires to cigarette adapters. The fuse box is connected directly to battery with another fuse between them.
EDIT: Mind you, I'm still trying to figure out what size fuse, circuit breaker goes between them LOL
EDIT #2: Also, from this fuse box, you directly connect LED lighting, your cig adapters and any other 12v source you may have. All the fuses are in one place instead of in-line. Makes it easy to diagnose problems as you can just pull the fuse to work on something. Make sure to label!
EDIT #3: Also.. get some these fuses. It's cheap and now you have a ton of extras!
Same brand as the other poster, this one is a bit more. I own this one, best PFD I have had for all around. Has the high back for sitting in kayak, has nice easy to use pockets, very comfortable.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050HDACS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Look, if you want to get rid of it, while protecting your car at the same time, get some 303 Aerospace protectant it will restore finish and protect your panels from the sun. Great stuff.
because I wasn't sure of the term haha.
A bus bar would be perfect. Now I just need to find a cheap one that has a cover; though I could print one if need be.
this is pretty nice for the price http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Common-Busbar/dp/B0091VHLW4/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408979981&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=terminal+bus+bar
Empty out the tank, buy a portable bubbler ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EYULIS?cache=fc8ff06c39fd52a9dcebbbe26dce6de3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;qid=1415168446&amp;sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) and put the fish in a home depot/Lowe's bucket of tank water (2 if any of your fish have attitude problems). Avoid feeding them for 2 days beforehand if possible and you should be good. I used this method to move my 29 across the country, a 2 day drive, with no losses. Pack the tank up last and unpack it first, 10g should not be too heavy but empty it anyways to avoid stressing the sealant. Also not sure if you use dechlorinator but if not you should get some before putting any new tap water in. Let me know if you have any questions, I am happy to share my experience
Edit: just saw your plants - I've seen people use newspaper to wrap them up but I just chucked mine in with the fish buckets and everything turned out fine. Good luck!
Please get yourself a proper container for those buses. At least one of them should be covered to avoid shorting.
Or get a all in one fuse box like this.
Next something looks wrong in your wiring. Is there a ground line and positive running to those switches?
Lastly please put a fuse between the bus and the battery. That way if those buses did short it will blow first.
Edit: I understand the ground going to the switch now. It looks like you have illuminated switches with need a ground.
Probably worth mentioning as there are double throw switches that would short out if someone wired it without understanding.
Have you considered foam racks? Copy and paste from my post earlier:
I have a 2000 civic hatchback DX so we basically have the same car but my car has a bigger butt. I bought this 25$ foam kit off amazon and it works fine. I also got these hooks and installed them on the radiator bolts and carry the kayak in the center of the roof. Two straps that came with the foam kit across the kayak and through the door shutting both doors on the straps, one more like it from tail of kayak to tow hook in the back, and one of the ropes off the nose like a V attaching to these two hooks on the front of the car. If you want to go more expensive there is this 90$ inflatable roof rack. I went with the cheaper route because I usually have a truck but the few times I don't I want to be able to still go out. I've yet to have an issue with the foam blocks. They work really well.
Edit, I also have a moonroof installed on my car. Tightened down tighter then it probably needs to be, the kayak almost touches the moonroof.
They also make wider ones for non V shaped kayaks also.
This is what I use. It leaves a pleasant shine but is not overly greasy like armorall wipes. Seems to last forever too. Added benefit of protecting your dash from UV rays. It's a little expensive but a bottle will last you forever. You need like 4 or 5 squirts to do the whole dash.
Maybe get something like this :
http://www.amazon.com/Onyx-Co2-Automatic-Vest-Universal-Adult/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1422675595&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=automatic+inflatable+life+jacket
That way there is some piece of mind should something happen and you wind up in the water, you're safe?
I have one that I really only wear when I am solo on the boat. Hey, ya never know. It's not the things you're expecting to happen that happen, be safe out there.
I forgot to answer your actual question.
No, using PC fans is simply not suitable for this application. There just isn't enough surface area on the fan blades to create the amount of static pressure required to effectively pull enough air through a good carbon filter. If you want to go small and cheap, maybe try a smaller filter like a 4", coupled with an inline bilge blower.
This is always my suggestion for anyone asking the best way to have removable but effective tie down points.
Use these underneath the hood and hatch for quick non permanent tie down points. Sherpak 078115 Quick Loops (Pair) , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JDZIBb99AK3JQ
And these so you don't have to worry about dealing with knots. Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IFZIBbHAJX6WB
This is what I use in my vehicles:
Blue Sea Systems 1045 and 1039 - 12/24v to USB 4.8A
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BV1MTAA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=desibyinst-20&linkId=ef325b158bff6239e93ed23c68c88fc9&language=en_US
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AHYC88A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=desibyinst-20&linkId=a0322bf1cac707c3a4162b54eff62c90&language=en_US
&#x200B;
They have a round or square one (square fits Carling marine switch cutouts). Internal power filtering, marine grade. Awesome solution.
Something like this for the leather works good, use it on my car periodically. Also something like this for the plastic trim, and you're all set.
Yes, that would work.
Although... if you want something higher quality, check out Sea to Summit brand
Medium or large of those will work, and be perfect for backpacking
look into the BlueSea PDC - like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have it in my JK under the hood, with a 100 amp circuit breaker between it and the battery. I ran battery cables and put ends on them. I wouldn't suggest Jumper cables as they aren't designed for continuous usage. I would recommend 2 gauge cables. Google Blue Sea and Jeep and there are lots of pics and descriptions of options.
Not sure if you're looking for this type but maybe a canister one similar to this canister pfd I'm in AUS so cant recommend brands/shops etc, but i love mine, its so light and i don't notice it at all.
Sure.
Lots of people use this one which is nice because it's got all you need built in plus some fancier features out of the box.
What I use and was talking about previous is something like this and this
There are cheaper places to buy it but this stuff is amazing on the seats. It’s slippery at first but if you keep buffing with microfiber cloth it works great. Removes all dirt and grime on my white seats.
ONR for the exterior.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?adgrpid=60145955190&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwyLDpBRCxARIsAEENsrKx8on96qpfRHIag_8D6tJ-sDAdT0AN2idoZQlnAnGnBIZe91MjLnkaAtmjEALw_wcB&amp;hvadid=274872144872&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvlocphy=9030034&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvpos=1t1&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;hvrand=15136836626326077358&amp;hvtargid=kwd-296127962609&amp;hydadcr=12191_10197806&amp;keywords=303+protectant&amp;qid=1563216687&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
Get a boat fan -- they're waterproof, 12V, and they put out around 200cfm. Also, they have mounting options that make it easy to connect a 4" duct to. If you use those 120mm computer fans, you'll have to make a duct and mount. Here's an example boat fan: https://www.amazon.com/Attwood-1749-4-Blower-Resistant-4-Inch/dp/B003EX02DA/
Also curious where you attach in the front. I got these, which I think will be perfect for my paddleboard...if it ever gets delivered.
https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hood+loops&qid=1557702207&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Sure thing.
I am running this battery
Optima Batteries 8027-127 D27M BlueTop Starting and Deep Cycle Marine Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001UFXHQI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3lL4yb7C6Z6P6
Which I installed in this box
MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTHKMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_coL4ybRZADD52
I use this charger to keep it ready to go
Stanley BC1509 15 Amp Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001U04MSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xnL4yb0GFAMKG
I like the MinnKota Trolling Motor Power Center as it has a carry handle, terminals to hook up my charger, and two 12v cigarette lighter outlets. I use one outlet for my 12v adapter for my CPAP machine and the other to keep my cell phone charge. It also has a simple meter to show the battery charge.
Using this setup I can get 6 night for summer camp and still have at least 75% charge on the battery.
These have been awesome for me so far. It's ridiculous how useful something so simple can be.
Edit: Actually the pictures down show how these work. Here's a video that explains it better.
I have one about half way up on each side of the hood of my car (I have convenient bolts there) - I find that two tie downs at the front make it easier to see if anything is moving above my head as well as being more stable. I had an accident last year involving a failed rack and a 15 ft long yak, so I take the kind of care that someone who learned a lesson takes.
That's probably a fine life jacket, it'll work to keep you afloat. The difference between sailing and powerboating is that you probably don't intend to ever get in the water (tho you can for swimming and whatnot), so a jacket like that can get uncomfortable (big and bulky).
I use something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-Outdoor-Full-Throttle-Automatic/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=pd_sbs_sg_52 which automatically inflates if you hit the water. I don't have my exact brand handy, but this is the basic idea. Since it's usually deflated, it's much more comfy to wear for long days sailing.
For better or for worse, a lot of people don't wear life jackets while on board a boat on CO reservoirs, they just have them nearby. If you feel comfortable doing that, the one you linked will work just fine. If there's a storm or possibility of stiff winds, you should put it on stat!
I personally wear one at all times, which is why I wanted the auto-inflate one.
Neat. Mine has this DIN connector, so it'll probably be easier to just replace the head unit.
Today I hardwired my dash cam and laser/radar detector without breaking any trim pieces/clips!
Planning on adding some USB ports to the center console (buying a 30mm hole saw and this USB adapter).
It's extremely rigid (I can carry it from one end by myself when it's inflated without it touching the ground), and it directly supports this motor. I really have zero complaints about it. I haven't bought the motor yet, but there are plenty of reviews saying the motor works great with it.
I'd recommend giving it a regular spray of 303 Aerospace UV Protectant. Seems to do pretty well at keeping black plastic and trim from breaking down and getting ugly.
Oh! One of the best purchases I've ever made for my canoe! http://www.amazon.com/GCI-Outdoor-SitBacker-Canoe-Seat/dp/B0042WZ77I
Hello everyone,
First time spray booth building and I have some questions. I heard using a Bilge fan will reduce the chance of catching fire when spraying lacquer. This is the model that I am looking at. Does anyone have any experience with using a Bilge fan and can let me know if it is too loud?
Thank you
Standard 303 protectant is on right now, but the price kinda blows.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_94d38b6d?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=13887280011&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=01DKWAXBK8E5WDKDEV3C
Also this Bissel carpet cleaner, which Ive seen other users mention they have and like it for extraction.
https://www.amazon.com/Bissell-3624-SpotClean-Professional-Portable/dp/B008DBRFBK/ref=gbps_img_m-6_f45d_851dfabf?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=c624455a-ed52-4f78-9f81-675ed6faf45d&amp;pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&amp;pf_rd_t=101&amp;pf_rd_i=13887280011&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=01DKWAXBK8E5WDKDEV3C
I use Kroil because I bought 2 cans when they were on sale...seems to work really well, no complaints. But same idea.
Also, I find having some silicone spray lubricant is handy to keep around. Whenever something is frictiony, I give it a spray. There might be something better than it, but it's worked well for me.
3rdly, I like to have a good plastic cleaner/conditioner. Keeps plastics looking pretty inside and out: http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398726066&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=plastic+conditioner
Lastly, I use Folex for all my carpet/upholstery cleaning needs. It is amazing...Price has been going up recently though:(. I hate that I'm only 28 and I've watched the price of gas/milk/eggs/paint/engine oil/etc more than quadruple in my short life...I don't know how I'm going to handle being 50-60-70...gonna complain so much.
On my old car I used tow hooks. On my current vehicle, I use the tow hitch in back and there is a part of the grill I can loop around that includes the frame. I would not suggest just a piece of the body, definitely go for the frame where ever you can get to it.
Hood loops are a good and inexpensive option for the front. Use a bolt inside the hood then just pull them out or tuck them in when using or not.
something like this? Yes.
I highly recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ALDMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522112820&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hood+canoe+straps&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41P7694VwpL&amp;ref=plSrch
Cockpit premium is a great product. I use it every week or so on my dash and the rest of my interior as a quick wipedown product.
Also, 303 is only $12. What do you mean the price doubled? It's always been about $10 or so.
Get a yakima rail grab kit with 66" bars. The longer length will allow you to add things such as paddle mounts, strap stops, and even awnings. Plus more weight capacity and the boats will sit a little higher off the truck.
Quick loops are awesome for bow lines.
Sherpak Quick Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l4CuzbE696JZX
The straps are good, here is another option as well. I dont like the straps in my line of site when driving so I use the back doors and it works fine.
I'd try some type of glossy interior detailer. It will cover it up and possibly restore some of the oils back into the plastic.
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This is good stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
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If it's painted, you might be out of luck. It looks like bare plastic in the pic but I just saw you comment about taking the paint off.
Nice truck! I got myself a pair of these a while back so my straps weren't rubbing...
Seattle Sports 078000 Sherpak Hood Loops, Pair (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-1FBDb4Q6TRWF
Might be worth checking out in your case!
Is a life preserver like this sufficient for flying over/around the Chesapeake Bay? I don't plan on flying over water that often, and it's not that much distance over water, so I'd probably be out of glide range of land for only short periods of time. I want to be prepared, but I'm not sure I need a bigger, over-the-shoulder style one. Thoughts, please?
Yes as long as your ropes and straps are tied off correctly. I recommend these straps in con junction with that kit.
Built U.S.A. Sherpak Hood Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRUMzbPXKMCJD
I use a boat roller like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PAAI5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 , Seattle Sports Sherpak Boat Roller) to help me load my kayak onto my cartop racks from the rear of the vehicle.
http://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Magic-Plus-Kayak-Paddle/dp/B001AI69KQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427333608&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=kayak+paddle
That's the paddle I have and it's awesome. $67.
http://www.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1427333486&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=fishing+pfd
I bought my father in law and brother in law stohlquist kayaking pfds and they are solid. They look great and are extremely high quality. I know the fisherman pfd is expensive, but you get what you pay for.
typically I have a bus bar where I connect my batteries, my charge controllers and my loads. I have an overall fuse connected between the batteries and the bus.
Something like this is a good idea. Having a fuse for every load helps.
https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bus+bar&amp;qid=1567973923&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
For leather, regular 303 Aerospace Protectant actually works great. I've gotten numerous comments about how well my leather has held up, and I attribute it to this.
I also do a yearly deep clean, and somewhat regularly wipe down with plain water. It may not be a "sealant", but it lasts quite a long time.
You're not going to run that many amps through the DC fuse block... things with smalllish loads go here... (LEDs, Fan, water pump... around 30 amps combined, and maybe about 20 max for a single device). Large devices like the inverter get attached directly to the battery with their own dedicated high cap fuse. So I have a 30A fuse at the POS side of my fuse block, so everything total shouldn't exceed 30A for me. Again, here's the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
Not what OP used, but theselook useful.
You could use that along with some aluminum tape to seal it to the back of the cutter.
I use this blower:
attwood Quiet Blower Water Resistant (White, 4-Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3L18BbTB6G1FB
Along with this vent hose:
White Flexible Pvc Vinyl Vent Duct Hose, 4 in. x 20 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G198P5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4R18BbNJ19ANP
These clamps:
Cambridge Tension Clamps, 2 Pk, Zinc Plated Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07737XRRH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SS18Bb12827MZ
And this quick disconnect:
Dryer Dock Dryer Vent 6" for 4" Tubes, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0028BAAWW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4T18BbV6CJ1TW
If you put the blower near the window it will keep negative pressure upstream which helps put less smoke into the room.
I don’t exhaust out a window, but something like this might do the trick for you:
Window Dryer Vent (Adjusts 24 Inch Through 36 Inch) by Vent Works https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M17V4CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AW18BbDW0592D
Though there may be cheaper or better DIY options for that part.
I use the 303 Aerospace spray on mine. They still look a little worn right where my heels rest, but otherwise look pretty new.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482181301&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=303+aerospace+protectant
Most of my suggestions are from other Reddit posts on here or BGG.
Do yourself a favor and buy an accordion/file folder for the map pieces, ideally with at least 13 pockets for map pieces A-M. That way you do not need to Tetris the pieces back in the box. Saves a lot of time.
I use this Plano box for commonly used small pieces.
And this one for the environment and monster holders.
Smaller monsters will fit in a tray like this one but not the larger mobs (or ones with ten of them), so you would either need to baggy those mobs anyway or cut space in the included foamcore packaging (there are some good examples in other threads).
Also YMMV, but we keep "trashed" cards in a separate ziploc bag rather than actually destroying them.
Edit Note: Using all of the methods described above, I can fit everything from the 1st edition in the box except the file folder.
If you straighten the arm out (and keep it straight for a week) about once a month you should be good. Also try this stuff to preserve rubber skin and keep it moisturized:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
Pretty sure they mean this (or something like it).
I have seen someone on YouTube recommend 303 Protectant Spray to repair scuffed dash on the Model 3.
Not sure if it would help and it's not cheap but might be worth looking into.
Eek that looks rough. I'd use a fine cloth and this stuffuse it sparingly and be gentle when cleaning the suit.
I use Aerospace 303 . I've seen some stores carry them but I order mine online.
I use it for my interior leather and plastic bits with Microfiber towels and exterior with a few sprays into the wash bucket. I also apply on my door/window seals to prevent doors from freezing up during the winter.
I've heard some stories of this being true so take it with a grain of salt. I don't live in a city where it will freeze up too often, but I apply it during the winter anyways to just be safe.
Get something that fits correctly!!!! that is a big thing. Also get something with utility, mine has pockets and zippers all over it and it serves as a mini tackle box. like this http://smile.amazon.com/Stohlquist-Fisherman-Personal-Floatation-X-Large/dp/B0050HDACS/ref=sr_1_15?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397315283&amp;sr=1-15&amp;keywords=personal+flotation+device+fishing
Thanks for that tip.
The 32oz. spray bottle is cheaper than the 16oz. on amazon.
Good training will cover emergency scenarios like you describe. Basically, I can image imagine two scenarios involving water landing: engine out and loss of vehicle control. Here's how I would handle them.
For an engine out over water:
For loss of vehicle control over water:
I have the same method of loading except I use a boat roller instead of a mat. They have suction cups for attaching to my vehicle.
Seattle Sports Sherpak Suction Boat Roller Load Assist for Mounting Kayaks and Canoes to Car Tops, One Size, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KL3jDbVD31R0P
A buddy of mine uses this he says its really good he applies it every few months or so https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
awesome! yeah I'm going to be using that on the random hole around the machine that let smoke into the room and Weather striping on the lids to block it so that it ONLY goes through the exhaust!
any suggestions for blowers? I was looking at https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Quiet-Blower-Resistant-4-Inch/dp/B003EX02DA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1542672858&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=4+in+blower+fan
Basic, cheap, works for about a 5-gallon bucket. Requires D batteries
Marine Metal Aeratr Bubble Box 1.5V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IYpXBbVKYXBGT
Better.... runs a 48qt cooler. D batteries, cigarette lighter adapter or 110. Really nice.
Frabill Ice Aqua-Life Cooler Modification Aeration Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OW7K46W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_s0pXBbYYQDRQ5
Don't forget to tie down the front! I bought a pair of these from the suggestion of someone from the mazda3revolution forums. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024AVPO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also wrapped the rope in some microfiber (where it touches the paint) to protect the car, but base don the length of the canoe, you won't need to worry about that.
You're welcome. https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW
303 is a UV protection product for use on marine equipment and aircraft. Regularly coating inflatables with it after periods of heavy use is a good way to prolong the life of the product.
I heard good things about Blue Sea Systems. Plan on using that when I start adding lights
Get yourself some hood loops and make the world a better place for everyone.
No, they're inline fans. They only work went the software is running in the background. They are there to simulate wind speed. I only use the when in F1-ish position. An awesome gent over on the iRacing forums wrote the code for the fans. After another aswesome gent posted a way to run the fans via PC.
Same as above. I ran 16 Gauge wire with 30 amp fuses. I wired the fuses inline, but amazon has an addable fuse block that looks great for wiring everything back to.
Can we get more threads like this please
Get a dozen bait bucket aerators like this one, place in bathtub, fill with dishsoap, run hot water.
Nice van!
Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.
Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY
This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)
Other items I used...
http://amzn.com/B000XBCURW
That should treat your tonneau 3 or 4 times.
i use the goalpost thing in the back off my hitch receiver. and i use the foam blocks on the cab roof. it works well for me. i tie the front down using something like this it keeps everything tidy.
Just to throw another option out there - I use 12v bilge blower fans (similar to: SEAFLO 4" In-Line Marine Bilge Air Blower 12V 270 CFM Quiet Boat White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166S2PA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SscDCbTQMY3Y9). If you go with a 4" you can just use dryer vent to get it outside. You can also put a motor adjustment switch on it (12V Motor Speed Controller, DROK DC Motor Driver Board for Brush Motor 7V-60V 20A 420W PWM Control 12V 24V 36V 48V Regulator Cooling Fans Dimmer Governor Pulse Width Modulator with Adjust Knob https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVGGWC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vvcDCbXK0FE4Z). These move a lot of air, which could help depending on the size of your run, etc.
On Amazon, there are two :
https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aerospace-Protectant-Furniture/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_5? This one w/o UV Protection
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And one with:
https://www.amazon.com/303-30382-Protectant-plastic-finished/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_6?
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Which one do you all prefer???
Look into 303 Aerospace to protect the synthetic leather and vinyl dashboard.
Is your bedliner exposed to the sun? If so I would recommend a UV resistant product for it.
Such as 303 Aerospace. This can be bought in a very large volume, from Amazon, as well.
Any idea how that compares to something like 303 Aerospace? That's my go to for any trim/vinyl.
Look into getting something like these and tie the knot around them instead.
Shame. It sounds like some folks are installing something like this (Blue Sea Systems Dual USB Charger Socket), and either wiring it into their fuse box or running an extension cable back to the 12v in the armrest/center console. Other food for thought, something like this. Honestly I'd rather not change the cosmetics, and figure out how to reuse the existing USB ports.
This is what I use. It's a little pricy but it's worth every penny in my opinion.
http://www.amazon.com/303-Products-30350-Aerospace-Protectant/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1396471973&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=aerospace+303
ew dude.
Let me introduce you to the solution to cracked dashes.
http://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Protectant-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000XBCURW
Yeah, that thing looks like a fire waiting to happen..
Someone else linked this which has fuses:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469329101&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=fuse+box&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51Wn79biAwL&amp;ref=plSrch&amp;th=1&amp;psc=1
I use an inflatable while fishing. Much more comfortable than a I or III.
Similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Onyx-Co2-Automatic-Vest-Universal-Adult/dp/B0032ALK36/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1405525205&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=inflatable+life+vest
I have the auto-inflate disabled, but if I was a non-swimmer I would not disable it.
303 aerospace protectant restores the gloss. I used it on the black plastic on my 2018 xlt.
303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant, UV Protectant for Boats and Patio Furniture, 32 fl. Oz(package may vary)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yXJxDbNNYKNME
It's a dual linkage RAM mount that I attached to the dash. Pulled that center fascia and bolted the attachment point right below the hazards button. Right below that I drilled a 1" hole and mounted up a pair of USB power ports. I'll try and remember to take a couple of pictures.
This is one product I’d use:
303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant, UV Protectant for Boats and Patio Furniture, 32 fl. Oz(package may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xanSDbVC3S0F5
Heard it works well on car interiors in addition to tonneau covers for trucks.
UV exposure is what really impacted the fabric more than anything. I’ve got a different product I use on the rainfly for both my tent and hammock made by nikwax.
Does amazon ship to you?
Linky
I got the 3500 from amazon here: Plano 23500-00 Size Stowaway with Adjustable Dividers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E39T4Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5jBTybCG28CN8
As for the 3600, I got it from my local Walmart in the fishing section. I checked amazon quickly and didn't spot the one I have on there. Sorry couldn't be more help!
Oh I see, I thought you meant exterior stripping. I apologize. Here is the link for 303. I use the gallon and distribute in spray bottles but for personal use that spray bottle will last quite some time.
I've not heard of that - but would this be it: https://www.amazon.co.uk/303-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass-Leather/dp/B0004ELKC4
I'm in England so maybe it's a name we're not used to here?
My Scenario & Encounter cards are sleeved in a BCW Deckbox. I also have a Dual Deckbox that I can hold the 3 pre-built core decks in. Tokens are held in a Plano 3500
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E39T4Q/ will hold all the tech squares, and can be passed around the table as needed.
http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Metal-Bubble-Portable-Pump/dp/B000EYULIS/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465186864&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=aerator
there are cheap battery powered ones
Adjustable Air Pump: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018CDR68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PeybBbG3WZGVG
Tubing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RbybBb2N07DFH
Also, a portable mini air pump (batteries required): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EYULIS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf