Reddit mentions: The best body repair buffing & polishing pads

How To: 2 Step Polish - Ammo Review on the bottom - forgot to add that to the title! Sorry guys

1. Inspect the paint for level of correction needed (pictures 1-4).
   
2. Find decent shading. Once again, if the paint is hot, the polish will flash and not be nearly as effective as it should be.
   
3. Find a good lighting source that will show swirl marks. I have found that the sun is both your ally and enemy in this situation. For smaller inspections, I am using the Flex Light. Link below.
   
4. Note: It is generally good idea to tape off a 2x2 area or whatever you choose to work in. I have not (mostly because I didn’t have any tape), but I am also comfortable enough in my abilities to know what I am doing. This is also my own car. If I were doing a customers, I would tape off sensitive areas.
   
5. Prime your cutting pad by adding enough polish to cover most of the pad. Work it in with your fingers to ensure all the fibers (or foam, whatever you are using) are coated in polish (picture 7).
   
6. Tap the pad around in the area that you are working in to spread the product around (picture 8).
   
7. Spread it in on speed 2 and light to no pressure (picture 9).
   
8. Bump up the speed to an appropriate setting (in my case, 5 & 6 on a PC), place the pad FLAT on the surface, and turn it on. Use medium pressure - enough so that the pad spins at about 1 rotation per second or so - Work in slow, controlled motions and move the DA in straight lines, about 1 second per inch. After your first pass, come back and cover 50% of the line you just did and continue on in such a manner. After you have finished going in one direction, work in the opposite direction in a similar manner. For example: if you started out north – south, work east – west, and so on and so forth. You will know when you are done polishing when the product does not appear to be there anymore. Think of it this way – it’s like buffing off wax. You want to work the product in until it isn’t really there. Each section should take about 1-2 minutes. If you are finding that the product is not going away, you have most likely used too much. Buff off the remaining polish with a clean microfiber. Inspect your paint and continue on. Repeat if necessary (picture 11). Make sure your pad is spinning! If you have too much pressure down, you are not doing anything. It is a common practice to mark the backing plate with a sharpie so know it is spinning.
   
9. NOT PICTURED: Polish leaves behind oils. They look like holograms, but can be buffed off. Isopropyl Alcohol can be diluted and used on the paint to inspect your work. I will include a link to a very helpful article. You can also rewash the car, but this runs the risk of reintroducing scratches to the paint.
   
10. Follow up the polish with a finishing polish. These are not as abrasive; they take away any induced swirls from polishing and further refines the depth of the paint. Using a finishing pad (doesn't have much cut) and the same priming method, tap and spread the product in the work area. These polishes do not have to be worked in at a high speed, instead a medium speed is usually fine (4.5 in my PC’s case). (pictures 12-17). You can lighten up on the pressure here, but still keep a consistent force down upon it.
    
11. Inspect the area and continue on. You may have to polish a few times depending on your OCD and level of correction desired!
    
12. For smaller areas, a 3 inch pad and backing plate is required (pictures 18-21).
    
    Here is a video showing some before/after polishing action:
    
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBdT_v60QXk&feature=youtu.be
    
    
    This guide may be a bit sparse and even less pictures than I would have liked, but I was fighting for sunlight and doing my best to get as much done as I could.
    
    
    Porter Cable 6 inch DA Polisher
    
    Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Pads 5.5 inch
    
    Meguiar's Microfiber Cutting Pad 3.5 inch
    
    Uber Blue 5.5 inch finishing pad
    
    Flex Light
    
    Ammo Paint Restoration Regimen
    
    IPA Mixing Guide: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/31183-how-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
    
    
    Ammo Paint Restoration Regimen Review:
    
    Leveling Fluid
    
    Color: Coconut creamy whitish...you get it. Look at the picture
    
    Smell: Oranges! Yes, oranges. Never smelled a polish before that didn't smell like chemicals
    
    Cutting power: My car is in pretty good shape, so it had no problem taking out love marks and random light scratches. I will have to update this on a more neglected paint job. However, I found that I did NOT have to go back over and areas. Lucky me. 9/10.
    
    Dusting: Hardly any. I am very very very happy about this.
    
    Oil Residue: Again, hardly any. It was also very easy to remove. I found myself not needing IPA, instead a light spray of ONR QD took it right off.
    
    Amount used: after priming the pad fully, I found that I could get away with doing a whole panel with that primed pad and by only adding a few extra dots after. 9/10 (basically saying not much was used)
    
    Overall: 9/10 - easy to use, smells great, doesn't dust, great cutting power. Sounds like something I'd want in a polish!
    
    Jeweler's Polish
    
    Color: Light blue
    
    Smell: Green apple. Awesome!
    
    Finishing power: 9/10. Took away micro marring no problem
    
    Dusting: none
    
    Oil residue: hardly any. hnnnnggg
    
    Amount used: comparable to the Leveling Fluid. Very little was needed after the initial prime - and unexpected glob that came flying out of the bottle >:0
    
    Overall: 9/10 - same as above. smells great, easy to use, user friendly. Thank you Larry!
    
    Overall Regimen observations: Love it!!! They were so easy to use and had no learning curve on them whatsoever. The smells were awesome, the fact that there is next to no dusting is just amazing, the little polish residue. Cons? I can't find any. They are reasonably priced I think, especially coming from Ammo. I could easily see Larry bumping the price up if they catch on. 9/10 would buy again

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

Sorry this kinda became a small essay, I hope it's not too verbose but there's a lot of ground to cover if you're just starting out.

I got kinda shafted started out since I had a pretty damn oxidized, single-stage red Miata as well as a pretty-ok silver 2015 Subaru, so I kinda had to build two kits at a time since I didn't want to cross-contaminate my systems. I ended up getting a bunch of orange and white Lake Country CCS foam pads along with playing around with some Meguiars foam cutting pads for the Miata and the 5" Meguiars Microfiber Correction Kit for the Subaru and anything else that's clear coated.

I'm using the same Harbor Freight DA, but with the 5" backing plate that comes with the Meguiars kit. If you don't get the Meguiars kit, at the very least you need to order a new backing plate for Harbor Freight DA because the one that comes with it is well-known for being really shitty. I prefer using a 5" system as it fits a better into tighter spots and gives you noticeably more correction power over a 6" at very little perceived loss of coverage efficiency because of the smaller size.

Of note: I've only had poor experiences with microfiber pads on single-stage since they seem to clog up so fast, but they've been great on clear coat. Most people won't face this issue, but I figured I'd put it out there.

Pair whatever kit you build/get with the 36-pack of microfibers from Costco and you'll be in business in no time.

I did pick up a 6.5" Lake Country CCS red wax/sealant pad since I like to apply Collinite 845 to everything I care about. I intentionally picked an oversized pad for my backing plate because I'm only using my DA at the minimum speed possible (like 1.5 on the HF DA) to spread a thin layer of wax efficiently. If you crank up the speed by accident or out of curiosity, yes, the 6.5" pad does tend to get totally out of control in a hurry, so don't do that haha.

Don't forget your pad brush, or if you have an air compressor, you can use that to blow out your pads (Youtube it). Some method of cleaning pads is absolutely mandatory and for some reason, this is often overlooked or skipped by many people starting out.

Whatever you get, I like to have at least 2 cutting pads on hand and I'll make a conscious effort to switch halfway through the car, usually hood/driver's side for one and trunk/roof/passenger side for the other. I usually can get through a car with just one polishing pad but it's reassuring to have a backup on hand in case the pad explodes or I'm an idiot and set it down on the ground or something. I'm also kinda anal about cross-contamination of LSPs, so I now have a dedicated Lake Country red CCS pad for each LSP I use.

Finally, I know you're looking for advice on pads, but I ended up getting a bottle of the Meguiars DA Microfiber Polish since I prefer to lay down my own LSPs and the lifespan of the DA Finishing Wax was iffy, especially compared to the Powerlock+ and Collinite 845 combo that I use on cars I actually care about. The DA Finishing Wax is now reserved for my detailing side-hustle (which is currently helping fund putting a turbo in my Miata), since it saves quite a bit of time over separate polishing and waxing.

This is what I have. It works awesome. You will need a velcro backing plate and the pads to go with it.

So for example, my setup was the porter cable polisher, the Meguiar's 105 & 205 polishes, a 6in. velcro backing plate, orange pads used with the 105, and white pads used with the 205 polish.

I started with the orange pads and the 105 to "cut" the paint. Just to get all those deeps swirls out. This will leave micro swirls, which is why you have to follow up with the 205 and white pads. You could probably skip the 105 step all together and just use either the white pads or black pads. (that is if you don't have really bad swirls) I would probably try to black pads first as they would be the safest and less abrasive.

So here's how I would do it with your car if you just want to try and get minor swirls out. I would 2 bucket wash, dry, and then clay. I would then tape off all your trim (if you plan on doing the whole car) as getting polish stuck between trim or on trim is a PITA. I would just worry about trim that is close to paint. Prep work will take time, but you won't have to slow down when polishing each panel. So once your trim is taped off it's time to get to work. Decide which panel you want to start with. Apply 3-5 drops of 205 polish to the black pad, have some water (preferably distilled) in a spray bottle and mist the pad. Go over to the panel and stick the pad against the panel to spread out the polish. You should have a couple spots where there's 3-5 drops of polish on the panel now. Bring the polisher up to speed, (I usually do a middle speed) and start working the polish into the panel going back and forth in a sweeping motion. Once you have thoroughly gone over the panel, carefully turn off your polisher without lifting off. If you lift off you will get polish EVERYWHERE. Now wipe it dry with a soft microfiber towel. I purchased brand new microfiber towels (basically the softest ones too) from The Rag Company. You want to remove ALL polish residue from the panel as soon as possible. Do not move onto the next panel without doing this. This will also give you an opportunity to check your work. Use a bright light to see if you can spot anymore swirls. You shouldn't see any.

I am by no means a professional, I have only done this once on my own personal vehicle. I believe I got pretty good results. Take my advice with a grain of salt. I just watched Youtube videos to learn what I know. I hope this helps! Don't be too worried or nervous. It's pretty easy and was pretty fun. But I won't lie, because I went over my car twice, my arms were killing me by the end of the day. I could barely finish the last panel (it was on the side) because my arms just wanted to give out. It was hard work, but so so worth it!

It should also go without saying, but be sure to either do this in a garage or in complete spot. You want the paint to be cool and you don't want the polish to dry on the panel. Also you don't want to have any dust blow on your paint or settle. Basically you want your paint as clean as possible before you go to town with your polisher.

Everyone has their own opinions on paint detailing. I don't mind spending a little time up front if the results are long-lasting. My approach has worked well on multiple cars in our family stable, both single stage (93 Mariner Blue Miata) and clear coat (95 Merlot Mica Miata) among others. I arrived at this list through research on /r/autodetailing and elsewhere in conjunction with my own trial and error.

I use a DA polisher from Harbor Freight. It is very effective and safer, in that it makes it more difficult for a non-professional to take off too much paint. Watch for sales or use a coupon and the cost isn't bad. Their polishing pads do not last so don't buy them. Plus the disc cuts into the foam--bad design. I bought a 5" disc instead and a set of pads separately. I read that 5" was better than 6" and so far, so good. Get a bunch of microfiber cloths also.

+1 for clay bar before you begin with polishing. Get a kit with detail spray and do that first. You'll be surprised how much stuff is actually on your paint that you can't see. Leaving that there can put grit into your polish work.

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound to start, using stiffer pad. Follow their directions.

Meguiar's Ultimate Polish next using a medium pad. This step might seem unnecessary but you'll see a difference before/after. This one wipes off before drying--see instructions. When done you should have a mirror-like finish.

Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant for the last step. I LOVE this stuff. A little goes a long way. It comes off so easily, unlike some other sealants (like Klasse--OMG, it's a workout) yet it lasts. You can put it on with the DA polisher, softest pad, or by hand.

Note that I use the DA only for putting stuff ON, never for removing. This video is a bit annoying but shows a good method for removing/buffing.

Some people like to do an additional stage with wax. I haven't done that but maybe I'll try it someday. Seems like the benefit would be minimal compared to the work required.

Finally, a good car wash that won't strip your product. Never use dish detergent. If you do that, you shouldn't have to use the first compound again. Polish and sealant next year or end of season should keep you looking good.

Very last thing: take and post a photo of your work!

You can totally DIY paint correct with a dual action polisher.

Here’s a straightforward shopping list and guide. This will knock out most if not all of your swirl marks.

Shopping List:

Machine Polisher - PORTER-CABLE Variable Speed Polisher, 6-Inch (7424XP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002654I46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l7SADbKPP1Q6Q

Backing Pad - Astro 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_T7SADbZ187WK1

Bugging Pads - Chemical Guys HEX_3KIT_5 5.5" Buffing Pad Sampler Kit (4 Items), 16. Fluid_Ounces, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J588UNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_d9SADb8WF470V

Compound - Meguiar's G17220 Ultimate Compound, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W5HCZ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M9SADb0ADEMZJ

Finishing Polish - Meguiar's M20532 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish, 32 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i-SADbWXADMQT

Wax - Your preference

Here’s the guide:

1 – Tool Prep

Set aside the dual-action polisher, backing pad, and foam pads. Remove the included backing plate that’s already attached to the Porter Cable polisher, use the included wrench. Re-attached using the Astro pad, secure tightly.

2 – Wash

Wash your car by hand, preferably using the two-bucket method. Afterward, move the car into your garage or shaded area. You’ll want to be out of direct sunlight, keeping the paint as cool as possible.

3 – Clay Bar

Clay bar the entire car. Make sure to wipe down the finish afterward, keeping it as clean as possible.

4 – Compound Buffing

Grab your machine polisher, the Ultimate Compound, and the orange pad. Attach the pad to the polisher using the velcro backing, make sure it’s centered. Prime the pad by dabbing 8-10 dime-sized amounts across the surface. Start working one section at a time, around 2 x 2 feet. Before you turn on the polisher, press the pad against the paint. Compound polish should be soaked within the pad, along with the paint. Press the pad against the surface, set to speed setting 2-3, and begin spreading the compound around in quick passes. Then, turn it up to 5-6 and let the fun begin. Use overlapping, slow passes. Once you’re done, wide the area clean with a microfiber towel.

5 – Inspection

Check out your results of the first section. Go over the area again if most of the swirl marks aren’t gone. If the swirls are gone, but a light haze is present, don’t worry. The finishing polish will take care of it.

6 – Polish Buffing

Use the M205 Finishing Polish with the white pad. Follow the same steps from before. Prime the pad and rub it against the paint before turning on the polisher. Use a max speed of 3-4 with medium pressure. The Finishing Polish will take care of the rest of the haze and micro scratches. Once you’re finished with the first section, wipe clean.

7 – Inspection

Again, check out the results of the M205 Finishing Polish. It’s doubtful you’ll need more than one application, but double-check all the same. If it’s looking great, move on and finish the rest of your car.

8 – Wax

Your paint is looking great. The swirl marks are gone, leaving a bright clean finish. Apply the wax using the black foam pad. Use very light pressure, letting the pad float along with the paint. You’re just coating your car’s finish, that’s all. Wipe clean with a microfiber towel.

I can tell you my setup that works pretty well for a DIY-scale operation. I bought this variable speed polisher from harbor freight

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-10-amp-heavy-duty-digital-variable-speed-polisher-62297.html

From there, you'll want to get a set of diamond polishing pads like the ones here:

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Polishing-Granite-Concrete-Marble/dp/B071ZTFYYX/ref=asc_df_B071ZTFYYX/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216531060403&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15897563041150168640&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9052441&hvtargid=pla-351492880558&psc=1

You'll take off the head that's comes on the variable speed polisher and put the one that comes in the set you get with the polishing pads.

You'll next just want some sort of water source to wash off the dust and debris that accumulates while you are polishing. I made a watering system where I took two five-gallon buckets, put one on top of my table and the other at the bottom. I cut a hole and put in a PVC pipe and put a faucet on it. I put the water in the top one and turn on the faucet just slightly so the water drops into the bucket below. It still splashes water around so I usually drape a towel over myself. You can get good results by just washing the rock off in a basin every 10-15 seconds.

Polish the rock for as long as you'd like on each level. I usually start off with the speed setting on like 20-25 on the rougher grits (50, 150, 300) to really get it leveled. As you go up in grits (500, 1000, 2000, 3000), I'll usually slow it down to like 10 or 15. Take your time and you can get rocks looking really really nice and shiny.

If you really want to red-neck DIY it up, you can also buy their tile saw and cut rocks by hand.

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-in-portable-wet-cut-tile-saw-69231.html

This was great for me when I was geode hunting. There are some youtube videos showing people cutting the rocks by hand. The blade isn't sharp, so you just want to be careful and wear gloves/eye protection. There's a basin of water underneath so it does splash everywhere. I used a tarp against a wall in my garage and was able to catch most of the water and have it trickle down back into a bucket. With some practice, you can cut rocks flat enough to use your low-grit polishing pads to really get them flat.

I have used Griot's Garage products for a long time and had excellent results with their polishes and pads. First, you need to assess your odds of actually removing the marks with polish and pads. Two ways: get it wet and see if they tend to disappear? If so, they will likely come out. Second way is to scratch it with your fingernail. If it catches your nail in the groove, it is likely too deep and may need touch up paint. It's hard to tell from the pic.

GG microfiber pads are excellent at removing heavy marks like this when used with the Fast Correcting Cream (their strongest polish/compound). It can sometimes leave some hazing, which easily comes out with lighter polish. For foam pads, this is a pretty good kit cost wise, the pads get the job done, and it comes with a good pad cleaner.

Hope this helps.

I started with Hex Logic pads but honestly didn't find them that effective or that durrable. These days I use Meg's MF pads for compounding and Meg's Soft Buff for polishing. They are much easier to work with and give me a better result. As far as polishes go, you can't really go wrong with M105/M205 combo or if you want an AIO HD Speed is pretty good as well.

I just did our counter tops a few months ago and boy do I have a lot to say on this. It's going to be a long post and I'm on mobile so bear with me on this. I'll put links to all the stuff I used at the bottom.



I bought concrete specifically designed for countertops. I absolutely suggest getting a bag and doing a test run. It doesn't have to be a huge piece, but you want to make sure you follow the directions exactly the way you would to make your actual countertops. Use the same form material, the same water to concrete ratio, the same mixers, the same polishers, etc. This way you can plan appropriately. My concrete mix was stupid dry. Like wet sand consistency. If I'd known that would happen I would have found an add mixture to make it flow better, but instead I was stuck trying to make due and it shows in my counter. Another point, don't just add water until you get the consistency you want. Adding too much water will weaken your concrete and it will crack easier



I did cast in place. I put tile backer board on top of the cabinets and built my own forms with melamine. I suggest, if at all possible, do pre-cast. This gives you a better surface to start polishing from and you don't have to worry about getting the back side perfectly flat, you can use the flat side from the bottom of the form. You'll need some kind of reinforcement in the concrete, you can use steel wire, fiberglass mesh, or you can add fiberglass directly to the concrete mix. I used fiberglass mesh, I think it was easier than steel wire and I didn't have to worry about adding stuff to my concrete mix.



For finishing, I bought a cheap Harbor Freight variable speed polisher and diamond polishing pads from Amazon. I wet polished the crap out of the countertop. WARNING: the HF polisher is not meant for wet polishing, you could shock yourself. You have to evaluate the risks yourself and decide if this method is appropriate for you. I decided that useing just enough water to keep the surface wet, and keeping the polisher as dry as possible was good enough for me.



For sealing, there are two routes you can go. A penetrating sealer, like wax and oil, or a barrier, like epoxy. Penetrating sealers are cheap and hard to screw up, but they don't provide the best protection. When people complain about staining on concrete countertops, they probably used penetrating sealers. I chose a two part epoxy sealer that I could roll on. It turned out great and so far I haven't had any problems, including zero staining from wine, coffee, and oil. Make sure to read the instructions for whatever you choose and follow the directions to the letter.



Links:

Concrete: http://www.kingdom-products.com/product/imperial-countertop-mix/


Fiberglass mesh: https://www.concretecountertopsolutions.com/product/fg50-fiber-mesh-reinforcement


Sealer: http://www.surecretedesign.com/product/concrete-countertop-sealer/amp/


Melamine: https://m.lowes.com/pd/Actual-0-75-in-x-49-in-x-8-08-ft-Premium-Melamine-Board/3605066?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-LumberAndBuildingMaterials-_-ParticleboardAndMdf-


Tile backer: https://m.lowes.com/pd/James-Hardie-0-25-in-x-36-in-x-60-in-HardieBacker-Fiber-Cement-Backer-Board/999994576


Polisher: https://m.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-62861.html


Polishing disks: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZTFYYX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YrJUBbPQFD33Z

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

Look at all of the colors of pads out there. Blues, blacks, and Red are for finishing. Whites, oranges,and yellows are medium to high aggressive.

On my black paint I used an Orange, Green, Black, then red for waxing. I used CG V36 and V38. But used the V36 on my Orange pad only then V38 on the Green and Black pads. To bring me to a liquid wax/sealant on the red pad. Let it cure, then the next day applying Collinite as my last step.

I don't think you should focus on removing 100% of the swirls. But make it look 50-80% better. You don't want to wear down your paint. I highly recommend a test spot. My favorite is the top of the trunk. Tape off half of it. Do half through all of your steps. Review it with a few different lights, and sunlight to see your progress. Maybe take some photos of it. Once you get to the waxing with the polisher, it'll cover up the remaining swirls as the machine is amazing for waxing. Just don't machine wax a car if you haven't clayed or polished.

The biggest thing is to get the pattern of buffing down. And to be patient. For me, I could never do an entire car in one day. I'd do the hood and one half of the car, as best I could, then do the other half the next weekend or the next day.

Another thing, go on the Lexus Forums or even Autopia detailing and look at their detailing steps on the same car/paint. They may show the products they used and pads. But it's also not about the products but you can ask them questions if you need any quick tips. Overall, I think a few passes with 3 pads with a liquid wax will do wonders for your test spot. And if you proceed then tape off sections of the hood into 6ths and door panels into 4ths.

Amazon example: Hover over the Style for the pad and it will show you the color.. You can review the crap out of every product out there, but you just have to decide, then do it. I've used those exact pads and they worked awesome. Choose 2 polishes and 1 liquid wax along with 1 hand wax like Collinite or something else. Don't forget to clay bar your car before polishing and even though I don't always use a backing plate, it makes handling the DA polisher easier.

What /u/univega13 said. It won't look perfect, you won't get a perfect match. Just saying that if your base coat is still untouched and unscratched and it looks fine already, then you can go over it with clearcoat but like he said, it won't be perfect, but that depends on how much you care and how much you spend. I'm not an expert in paint correction so I can't say for sure but that is just what I've seen myself in my own DIY repairs. You will get a slight color mismatch or patchiness if the whole thing isn't resprayed first. But then again, if you aren't looking for perfect it might be fine for you.

IF the base coat is fine, and you have just a tiny bit of clear coat left over, then you can try using a heavy cut or medium cut foam pad first with heavy-cut compound and see what the results are. I can't say for sure if you will get the results you are looking for without trying at first.

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_102_HEX6-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B009902Y4C/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZSHDKC/

Pads like these are what you would want. Honestly, depending on your budget, it might be worth just taking it to a shop and getting a quote depending on how much you care about the car.

ALBUM (also at end of post)

I recently purchased a Rupes LHR15 MkII bundle from Detailers Domain during their Father's Day sale and I've been afraid to use it. But I didn't want my ~$400 purchase just sitting there... so I went and bought a Hex Logic Waxing Pad and the Nanoskin Autoscrub for DAs. Yesterday, I did a wash, clay and wax on my personal car and today I did the same for my girlfriend's car. I haven't started polishing yet because I'm still hesitant and have some questions. I've watched Junkman's video series on polishing and I've read the written guide here in the Wiki, but they don't go over specifics (e.g. how do you polish the A pillars, around badges, lower front bumpers [i.e. around and inside the Miata's 'smile']).

I messed up on my own car because the clear coat is failing and I underestimated the Nanoskin. I've clayed with regular clay and the small nanoskin sponge and nothing happened to my car. However, when I went over the same area with the Rupes w/ Nanoskin, it went dark grey. At first, I thought it was just super dirty but I stopped. After inspecting.. it looks like I may have ripped off loose clear coat haha.... I wish I had someone that I can talk to in person and ask questions on the fly as I work.

 

What surprised me the most was how loud the vibration sound is and it makes me question whether it is normal. Using the Nanoskin, it almost sounds like a deep vibrating sound and sometimes a slapping sound. Is that normal? I have watched youtube videos and it's hard to distinguish if the sound I hear is the same in the video.

 

Also, do you guys clean your backing plates? The Rupes manual says that the machine is lubricated enough for lifetime use, but the backing plate has turned black/dirty from the shroud. If I clean this backing plate, would I need more lubricant? Should I do the washer mod to this LHR15 MkII?

 

Do you guys have any recommendations for which pads to use with the Rupes? I read some posts saying that the Rupes is too aggressive for the Hex Logic pads, but I decided to try it out anyway. Those posts were right, at least in my experience. I've only used the waxing pad twice and it's starting to rip (please see the album at the end of the post). I was thinking of going for Lake Country Pads

 

I recently watched AMMO's video on how to wash pads, and I've applied that to my own waxing pad and Nanoskin pad (water in sink + hand scrub, put back on DA and spin at highest speed to get water out, rub against hand + towel while running it on polisher). How do you guys wash your pads?

 

Here's an album of everything mentioned above.

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

here's a little email i wrote to a friend a few years back. the only thing i'd add to this is to get the nanoskin autoscrub and plenty of clay lubricant or cheap quick detailer: https://www.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-006-AutoScrub-Grade-Polisher/dp/B0090IRKUG/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482982531&sr=1-2&keywords=nanoskin+autoscrub+pad

"Here is the kit i have. There's other brands people prefer (more and less expensive) a lot of it is pretty much the same stuff, but this is just what i use.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUHRnHsSXZU

http://www.autogeek.net/wolfgang-porter-cable-swirl-remover.html

The only thing you'd need besides this is a clay bar. and some microfiber towels

this is the one i use/recommended by a detailer. i'm sure any of them are fine though

http://www.autogeek.net/ultra-fine-poly-clay.html


If you want to prevent your car from getting swirled when you wash it, then you should get 2 of those 5 gallon buckets from lowes/home depot and buy 2 of these things.

http://www.autogeek.net/grit-guard-2pack.html

and also get 2 lambswool wash mits. one for washing the upper part of the car, one for the lower portion.. The whole idea is just to not be dragging dirt around and scratching the paint.

http://www.autogeek.net/mothers-lambswool.html


Lastly here are the videos on how to use the porter cable.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUHRnHsSXZU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fxwlWijdIxM&feature=relmfu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9objUFdpsG4&feature=relmfu"

EDIT: at this point i'd recommend a flex over a porter cable. i wrote this back in 2011 lol. the porter cable is great and its idiot proof. you basically can't screw up your paint with it, but when you really want that power to get out a deep scratch or imperfection (not necessarily, but possibly on a car) it doesn't really have what it takes.

you may need the iron remover eventually but you can wait to buy it until you actually need it.

FCC and Microfiber cutting pads

yeah, compare 10 gallons at $19 vs 10 gallons of invisible glass or whatever which is almost $200.

they are more expensive but you will have a better surface for waxing when you don't have a soap that has wax in it.

d101 may not be strong enough to get the wheels totally clean, that's where d143 will come in. d101 will be good on plastics though.

cleaner for the plastics would be d101. leather you could do leatheriques pristine clean for cleaning and the rejuvinator for protecting. they're expensive though, you might look into optimum leather conditioner or adams

Don't use autozone towels, the last ones I bought from there were 100% polyesther and can't absorb anything. I have a pile of these useless towels now and they're going to the garbage.

All links provided are Amazon.com links:

Get a towel that's 80% polyesther, 20% polyamide. It will absorb better. Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels. Get a bunch of them. Also a Water Magnet Towel for drying. When drying, you should get the microfiber / water magnet drying towel damp first, it will absorb more water much more easily.

Cheapest and quickest way to remove swirls, my recommendation is Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and some Gold Class wax. This kit has everything you need for $25 including the microfiber towels and foam pads: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3300-Brilliant-Solutions-Restoration/dp/B004EB12FS

Expensive but quickest and most effective way, get Meguiar's DA microfiber correction kit http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMCKIT5-Microfiber-Correction-System/dp/B00CJ69F2W and buy the porter cable polisher. Also I recommend getting the Meguiar's car correction kit I linked above with this. You'll get excellent results.

Separate all your towels. Use dring towels only for drying, wax towels only for waxing, polishing towels only for polishing, and Glass towels (rainX) only for glass.

I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.

1. Watch tutorials by Junkman2000 on youtube.
   
2. Use the right size pads for your backing plate. The DA listed above comes with a 6" flimsy backing plate, and you should replace it with a 5" so it is smaller and easier to work with. Mark your backing plate as well, so if you push too hard, you'll see it stop spinning. Good for figuring out how much force you SHOULD be using.
   
3. Take your time, and work at it slowly, you will have results.

Care about your leather the proper way.

There quite a few youtube tutorials about that.

You will need to gather a kit of 3-4 different chemicals (cleaner, softener, cream, wax), two brushes (soft and hard) and some sponges. Then clean your leather every or every other month. Make sure to give enough time between every stage of the cleaning (i.e. apply cleaning solution, buff in, wait 15 mins, buff out).
Should take about 45 minutes once you get a hold of it. You can do like 3 pairs in these 45 mins.

Or take to shoe repair store and and ask 'em to do a deep cleaning on 'em.

Here is the kit I bought on Amazon for this purpose (hope it is OK to post product links here - I get no kickback from these):

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NVK34T0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002A92UZC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002J8379C/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGQ4HKW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KGG7QQY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J7RL0ZQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSVPP23/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSYPC3X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MS1IDIA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.

i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars

as well as ultimate compound

and some polish

i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.

that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.

edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.

These orange pads are 7 dollars with prime. Is that too expensive? I use these occasionally for AIO and they've been ok. Lake country is better but not available the way you want to get them.

You want pads that match the aggressiveness of the product you are using to get the best finish possible using that product. That's just how it works. You can certainly use compounding pads for polish to up the aggressiveness(m205 comes to mind with this) but you still want polishing pads to finish without micromarring. I use a minimum of two per car, per color(except lsp, I have dedicated pads for each of my products that I use), switching at about the halfway point, maybe more if I use heavier polishes/compounds. Never work with a dirty pad, you're creating frustrations for yourself.

A microfiber or foam applicator pad is what you should probably use.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad
http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3080-EvenCoat-Applicator-Pads/dp/B0009IQZQG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-3&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad

Since your just starting out this might be a good kit http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3300-Brilliant-Solutions-Restoration/dp/B004EB12FS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1407524279&sr=8-13&keywords=meguiars+applicator+pad

Depending on your budget and how much you see washing by hand etc, you might look at /u/TheRagCompany microfibers. They are really liked here, I just got mine and are going to try them out tonight.

Make sure to read up on good technique on the wash and correction so you don't introduce any more scratches etc.

Hey man, what an awesome job!
I am preparing to do my first detail by hand too...just wanted to get your ideas. Which pads did you use for the ultimate compound? Any of these you recommend? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZQG/ or http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-HiTech-Applicator-Pad-Pack/dp/B0009IQZPW


Did you switch pads on each of those steps (ie, compound, polish, wax..)

I'm thinking to:

1. Wash + Dry
   
2. Clay Bar + Dry
   
3. Compound
   
4. Polish
   
5. Wax
   
   Is there any breaks in between any of those processes? Or can I do it one after the other consecutively.
   
   Thanks buddy :):)
   

As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.

Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.

As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)

Yup, here they are! I've gotten some off brand ones before that work perfectly well, but the Meguiar's ones are softer and higher quality, so I've been sticking with those on the odd occasion I use foam.

As for the waxes, my current top wax is [McKee's 37 Trademark Wax]. Easy application, easy off and a definite darkening effect to the paint. I don't see a reason not to get a sealant though!

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

The clay kit says it comes with some clay lube, but thanks for the tip!

Foam applicators like this: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395465318&sr=8-1&keywords=foam+applicator?

And would I use the mitt in place of all the microfiber towels or just in some cases?

Thanks!

The second bucket is a "rinse" bucket. It is used to clean the dirt off your mitt from the dirt it encounters on your car. It contains just water, and you rub your mitt on the grit guard to get all the dirt and grime off off it. Then I typically ring it out and put it into my "wash" bucket. This bucket contains the actual car wash, I run the mitt along the grit guard and then ring it a bit and use it on the car again.
This video will provide a little insight into the process.

As far as applicator pads go, it's best to go with a foam applicator when it comes to applying wax. The reason for this is simply because a foam applicator is going to evenly distribute the wax and not provide any abrasiveness against the surface of your paint. These pads by Meguiar's should do the trick. I personally use Pinnacle Polyfoam pads from AutoGeek.net, but these are probably the same thing, they just have the Meguiar's logo.

I would recommend not using a pad for different applications. Keep one pad for wax, one for sealant, etc. The foam pads I linked can be used for sealant and wax.

However, for compound, I would go with a microfiber applicator if you are going to do it by hand. You may not get stellar results this way, but it may work, I personally have never tried it. The reason for microfiber pads here is because they offer a little more abrasiveness against your paint as opposed to the foam applicators. These may do the trick if you want to apply compound and polish by hand.

As u/eneka said, you probably need to polish the glass. Here's what I recommend.

• First try cleaning the class with a razor blade to remove most of the contaminants.
  
  
• Next, use some clay and lube to remove more contaminants.
  
  
• Finally, if the first two steps haven't made any progress, use a glass polish pad and some glass polisher
  
  Here is a video that explains these steps in more detail.
  
  Also, if you could take some pictures that would help us help you better :)

Your list looks good, but is lacking a few item IMO:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396913798&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt The mitt you listed should be fine, but I use these. I have 3 of them and it's good to have more than one lying around in case one gets too dirty during the wash. I like to use a different one for the bottom of my car anyway.

I'd get at least one more pack of those Chemical Guys microfiber towels. The more the better.

I use Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/Sonax-230200-755-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B003UT3S6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914006&sr=1-1&keywords=sonax+full+effect+wheel+cleaner It's a bit pricey but it's very effective at removing brake dust.

For applying the wax, you'll need an applicator pad http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914054&sr=1-1&keywords=foam+applicator+pad

i handwaxed with collinite 845 for the first time last weekend and im wondering if i let it dry properly. belows says

• After waxing the entire car, I let it dry to a haze for about 40 minutes. As the temperature and humidity vary from location to location, you can simply practice the swipe test. If you're not familiar with the swipe test, it's when you swipe your finger across the panel to reveal either shiny paint, or a streaky finish. If the wax streaks where you swiped your finger, the wax has not dried completely yet. When the wax swipes clean, meaning the area of wax removed with your finger is clean and shiny, the wax has fully dried to a haze and is ready to be removed with a soft microfiber towel.
  
  when i swipe my finger across the paint i see a finger print. Did i not spend enough time buffing out the wax? I hand buffed till I could no longer see haze. (car looks great regardless btw, but i didnt get that mirror finish i was hoping for. I had just assumed it was bc i didnt compound/polish)
  
  
  another question i have is, i plan on doing a full color correction in a couple weeks, is 1 pad enough for the entire car? another website said i should have at least 3 compounding pads and 3 polishing pads for the DA.
  
  one more edit, is this a good deal for pads? https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUF_HEX_KITS_8P-Hex-Logic-Buffing/dp/B00BTGDR9A/ref=pd_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41FHcFmWnyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=6V1WEB4FCNTK930TJE46

Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this issue. Did you ever come to know what it is or what exactly causes it? Does it continue to happen after initially cutting or polishing? Because for me, that was the first time the paint ever got a half decent polish AFAIK. How much of a difference is there with the D151 as a "reconditioning creme" and a standalone polish?

You're right on that about how others treat their cars, but I never have and never will resort to that kind of barbarism on any cars under my watch haha.

I quickly gave up on the HF pads too. I got a CG cutting pad, polishing pad and a manual finishing pad yesterday, but didn't have a chance to use them today. Is it worth upgrading the backing plate too? I haven't given that a second thought since it doesn't sound like it'd make a difference like a pad would. Also going to be getting a clay and lube set tomorrow.

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

This stuff is unbelievable. So effortless to put on by hand. After a good wash, it took maybe 40 minutes to do the car with moderate detailing experience. It leave a jaw dropping shine and you'll use maybe 1/8 of a bottle on a single coat of a mid sized sedan.

Currently $18.92 at Amazon with free shipping. Plus a 4 pack of applicator pads for 8 and some change and a 24 pack of microfiber towels for $10.
$35 bucks for a shiny car for 3+ years. You just can't beat it.

I use these when applying the M105:
Chemical Guys BUFX_102_HEX5 Hex-Logic Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad, Orange (5.5 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_JnEUTcXh1t2xd


Then I switch to these to apply the M205:
Chemical Guys BUFX_104_HEX5 Hex-Logic Light-Medium Polishing Pad, White (5.5 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_3CuEdXSpOPLHj

To be honest, I can't tell much of a difference before and after using the M205. I can definitely see improvement after using the M105 but yeah, last week I did my front driver's side fender and it took me five hours. Sad face.
Sometimes I think I should have bought a flex as I understand they work faster. I went with the PC because I understood it to be extremely safe. Being my first time and all, I wanted to be safe rather than burn my paint. But yeah, five hours/panel is ridiculous.

The M205 is the polishing liquid.

Don't bother waxing. I would get something like Gtechniq C2v3 or Opti Seal as a sealant instead. Easier application and more durable than a wax.

Get some Optimum No-Rinse while you're at it and some detailing clay too (you can use the no-rinse to wash, and use it as a clay lube) You should probably clay your car before polishing anyway :)

Definitely get the Microfiber cutting pads https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMC6-Microfiber-Cutting-Disc/dp/B005JPJNO0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1482853664&sr=1-1&keywords=meguires+microfiber+cutting+pad

This is the one I went with:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_EFqiub0TTBDWG

I have had it on for a year and it is holding up great. The velcro is very strong and it holds well.

Don't use M101/M105 or anything that aggressive unless you're sure you know what you're doing.

Meg's Microfiber Correction Kit is good. Consider ScratchX for minor correction, and Ultimate Compound for a more effective single stage correction. UC can also be used as a glass polish. M101/M105 will require a second stage of correction/polish like M205 after it.

Well the first, and biggest, difference is power. The one you linked is 1.1amp, the griots is 7 amp and has adjustable speed, so it can work faster than the buffer you linked. The type of pads they use is different as well, the griots has a velcro backing plate so you can use pads like these. 10 inches also is quite big and probably nearly impossible to use on tighter areas.
(I'm not an expert so please feel free to correct me on anything)

Here's what's in my toolkit...

Polishing cloth

Fine Mesh Pads

20x Loupe

10x Loupe

! Canned Air

Cotton Tipped Applicators

Goulet Mylar Paper

Goulet Brass Sheets

Goulet Grip

Goulet Silicone Grease

! Careful with the canned air. It can be the cause of some funny and not so funny accidents.

A bright desk light with a magnifier comes in handy.

I don't know about the megs buffer and backing plate but I feel everyone should have a 5" plate in their arsenal.

I found this deal in the hex logic pads..

Chemical Guys BUF_HEX_KITS_8P Hex-Logic Buffing Pad Kit (5.5 Inch) (8 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BTGDR9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LsCOyb6KEPQBV

It serves my needs well.

Here's a handy chart for aggresiveness of polish/compounds: Autopia Care Care Chart

You could try meguiars microfiber cutting pads if you still need a stronger cut. Remember that you want to use the least aggressive method first. No reason to take extra clear if you don't need to.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like I said be super careful with it, you can easily burn the paint. I had no prior knowledge about this stuff til the other day after watching a few Youtube vids

Sure! So I used what I had on hand, which is entirely overkill for this application:

• Harbor Freight dual action polisher
  
  
• Meguiar's microfiber cutting pad
  
  
• Barkeepers Friend
  
  Get the pad wet, generously sprinkle on the Barkeepers Friend, mush it around so it becomes paste-y, set your polisher on low speed, and spread it all over the affected area. Then ramp up the speed to polish it out. Follow your instinct, spend more time on areas that need it, and try not to leave it in one place too long. It's less of an issue on enamel-coated iron, but heat can build up quickly, soften the paint, and cause damage.
  
  But you don't need a special polisher or expensive cutting pads.
  
  Something like this in your (prefereably corded) drill would probably work well enough.
  
  Or a cheap polisher like this and the cotton polishing bonnet it comes with would work well too.

Yeah, that would work to get some stuff out, but to shine them, albeit temporarily, spend the $12 and get this:

https://smile.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_4

If you have an electric drill, this is more fun and you can do more parts of your car:

https://smile.amazon.com/Foam-Drill-Polishing-Inch-Buffing/dp/B076ZJMHB1/ref=sr_1_23

Former auto body paint tech here, as mentioned already, you need to sand/scuff the paint because the paint needs to etch itself into the case for the paint to adhere correctly. Just do a good scuff job with these I would say sanding would be overkill for something like this. Just use those scuff pads until the sheen is gone and the whole finish looks matte. After that use gray or white sealer over the scuffing, then apply the paint. Don't forget a good eggshell or matte clear coat.

I would buy this DA:
http://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407291588&sr=8-1&keywords=porter+cable+7424+xp

This backing plate:
http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

3 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_102HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=pd_sim_hi_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=0NJJRSFYV45X3EWAS3NA


2 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_104HEX5-Hex-Logic-Light-Medium/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=pd_sim_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=11TRQVZC789CNJ8EXED1


1 of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_106HEX5-Hex-Logic-Finishing/dp/B0042TTIYO/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=08HEKJEWM7H5NRFGAQNH

Pretty sure they are all compatible with the backing plate.

Not Strapcode specifically, but I've done this with 3m pads even on higher end pieces. Works great for rebrushing.

Lot of 5 Red 3M Scuff Pads Scotch Brite 3M Brand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MBPT0F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.F2TCbHJZXT6J

I went with Torq cause I found a package on Amazon which includes the DA, and 5 Hex Logic Pads for $180, the Lowest Griots Garage DA that i saw was this one, and with a 7 Hex Logic Pad kit for $40 I'll end up with similary priced combos.

But the Griots is superior than te Torq? Or Im getting a good deal on the Torq that justifies it?

The actual tool I used was Porter Cable's DA Polisher


With that I did:

• Simple microfiber mitt wash
  
• Microfiber towel dry
  
• Full body clay bar using this kit
  
  
• All-in-one wax & polish with this, applying with these.
  
  If you go this route, you'll also need a [hook&loop attachment]
  (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQVF8J0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the polisher. I did a lot of research before landing on what would get me good results with very minimal time. I did the whole thing in about 4 hours, after not having done anything but a normal wash for 3.5 years. about 9 months later, I'm ready for (need) another detailing.

I like my PEI shiny so the bottom of prints have a more glass-like appearance. After a couple of years on this .06 in thick PEI bed, I had made a few gouges and scratches on the bed that were affecting my print quality. A quick go over with drill mounted polishing sponges and Novus plastic polishing compound really shines the surface right back up.

This stuff works great on your worn car headlights too!

They can be polished out. You can either do it yourself with a kit like this (note that I haven't personally purchased this kit, so I can't speak to its quality) or hire it out. Any reputable granite contractor in your area can do the job, and it would be substantially less expensive than replacement.

Unless you have prior experience with polishing (be it automotive or otherwise) or are willing to take the chance on your countertops (or at least a small section), I'd recommend hiring it out.

Yes, definetly sand it to get good adhesion. I used a red 3m scuff pad to sand it down.

I used automotive paint, you can ask around to some bodyshops, if they can throw it into a booth cycle they already have going they might not charge you very much. Powder coating would also be a good option if there's anywhere around you that does that.

I can't really say much about using spray paint as I've never tried it but I would assume if you spray it and let it sit overnight it should be fine.

Did some research on it and you can make things quite a bit better with a few things:

• Glass Polish
  
  
• Glass Polishing Pad
  
  
• DA Polisher
  
  There isn't much you can do to mess it up unless you use the wrong stuff.
  
  For the polish, I found that Griot's Garage Glass Polishes are reviewed very highly and are meant to remove hairline scratches, very small pits, water spots, etc. You can buy the set of Fine Glass and Regular Glass polish, or you can just try the fine glass polish, but you need to finish whatever you do with the fine glass polish.
  
  For the polishing pads, I found these polishing pads which are also made by Griot's garage, and are also highly rated. The ones I linked are for 6" DA polishers, but are also available in 5" and 4".
  
  If you don't already have a DA polisher, you absolutely need to have one for this, you can't do it by hand. A few are recommended in various links in the sidebar, but Harbor Freight has a variable speed one that I've used for around $60 that you could also get.
  
  From your pictures, I can't tell exactly how bad these pits are, but if they're just in the surface, you should be able to remove them with a little of work. I've never done this for myself, so I can't say exactly how well it works, but from what I've read, it works. And it's cheaper to try this and hope it works than replace your entire windshield.

however, its perfect for 6.5" pads and this plate works well with the HF pads

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

heres a pic i took of it with HF 6" pads

http://i.imgur.com/SYid1BZ.jpg

That guy is right, although I would suggest red scotch brite. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/lot-Scuff-Pads-Scotch-Brite-Brand/dp/B00MBPT0F8

Just scrub it by hand and it gives a matte silver, very uniform surface finish.

Example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2_2_xhF4Brg

If you have a Harbor Freight nearby they have a polisher that is reasonably priced, I believe they ship to Canada as well. They're polisher runs roughly $60 plus around $10-15 for a backing plate.

Here's the harbor freight one

I believe they ship to Canada.

From Amazon here's a 5" backing plate

And a 3" one

The issue with the one you have selected is it does not have enough power to double as a tool that can offer correction. So effectively it is only a wax spreader, whereas the polisher doubles as a machine that you can use for paint correction as well as a wax spreader.

Keep the speeds set low when suing wax as you are not working it into the paint (2 should do).

Thanks for your reply. The case I'm looking at is a friend's car which seems to have been keyed, I can feel the scratch with my nail. I imagine this means it has gone beyond the clearcoat. So wet sanding would basically be a quick way to take down the clearcoat as opposed to a slower way using a DA with pads like these? http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Hex-Logic-Buffing-Items/dp/B00BTGDRB8/

Amazon I don't have much experience but I think that it does the job. I haven't had any issues on the two projects I've used it on, so I think it's a safe bet.

1st get this:

https://www.amazon.com/Legacy-Super-Sanding-Polishing-pieces/dp/B01GW0TPUW/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=micromesh&qid=1556642378&s=gateway&sr=8-10

Cut them in half @3X2. You can't beat the price and you get 2 sets. My 1st set @ 6 months and over 200 pens/projects is still vialable.

2nd, 6 months is getting to the end of the end of the shelf life. Thin is supposed to be THIN. If it seems to be thickening up , use it to glue in your tubes

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/library/Stick-Fast-Basic-Use.pdf

Like DavidPX said it could be moisture in the blank itself.

My method is 5 coats thin, 5 medium, 2 thick. 2-3 drops on each blank while turning low speed. Use an un-textured paper towel product. You always sand just below the bushings...careful there... and build up to them. I normally dry sand woods from 220 - 1000. Stopping at 600 is....ok.

WET SAND from 320-1000 then MM the rest to 12k. I use the PlastX also. Great stuff.

EDIT: info@tmiproducts.net They are the manufacturers and reply very quickly.

This polisher? I remember reading some time ago that there was some mod people were doing with this one and the power switch or something and that the newer model wasn't able to do this?

Also, because it has variable speed - what is a good speed to work with?

I found this and this. Any input on these?

They already have that. You're too late haha Nanoskin (AS-006) AutoScrub 6" Fine Grade Foam Pad for DA Polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0090IRKUG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W0axxb0ATKDTW

You can look into these pads instead:

Chemical Guys BUFX_102HEX5 - Hex-Logic Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad, Orange

Chemical Guys BUFX_106HEX5 - Hex-Logic Finishing Pad, Black

Chemical Guys BUFX_104HEX5 - Hex-Logic Light-Medium Polishing Pad, White

Colors are not the same across brands, but these Hex-Logic are the same.

Multiple pads are used when your pad gets full of product or too dirty. You can clean them, but this slows you down and sometimes I feel safer using a newer (fully cleaned) pad. I often use 2 pads for compounding and 2 pads for polishing.

I'm trying to keep the other products on Amazon. I'm doing this all on Saturday and I have Prime, so might as well use it.

Would this work? http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1395241399&sr=8-13&keywords=5%27%27+polishing+pads

I got some of These

maybe not the best but have good reviews.

Hardbor freight DA polisher with a coupon along with this backing plate and this bundle of pads. Along with M105 & M205 & a good wax.

It's the Griot's Garage one from the wiki. I got the one with the longer cord and I also got a 5" backing plate from amazon as well.

Links to both:
Polisher
Backing Plate

Apply the wax by hand. Use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW

To buff the wax off, use this:
http://www.theragcompany.com/everest-800-16-x-16-ultra-plush-microfiber-towel/


Sorry for formatting. I've gone mobile http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4u2gPCtlAaw

I used the meguair's foam applicator thing and applied by hand.

These... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002J8379C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SS3SCbNBFXZTR

Get this

DA Polisher Griots $99 [Lifetime warranty]

Pads $45+25% off = 33.75

Get 3 orange, 2 white and 1 blue or whatever you want


Use BLK25 Coupon Code to get 25% off

Backing pad $10

Then the rest you can pick whatever, a polisher/compound, MFs or an ONR and dilute it 1:16 for quick detailing

The kit is fine, but you should take advantage of the sale that's going on right now.

I have a black car (old E39 BMW) - never tried DA and I've been lurking and reading this sub, trying to learn proper techniques.

I have always been deathly afraid of doing any black with any machine since my first black truck in the '90s, I left swirls galore with just a cleaner wax (by hand) - a buddy of mine had to buff out.

I picked up a cheap DA HF that was on sale. Now I know I should pickup a smaller 5" backing plate and now I need foam pads - or maybe MF pads? I was going to pickup the hex-logic pad kit - or Meg's MF pads (figured MF would be better but looking like they are more abrasive). The wiki only says I need Yellow/orange/white, but I"ve seen other posts with blue and black - and also talking about MF pads. So what do I need or should I go with?

Something like this?

Or can someone point me in the right direction here? Should I just buy the pads individually? I know CG's aren't preferred here...


I plan on doing M205 (maybe M105 - but I want to start with 205 and then I'll go back with 105 if needed. The car was corrected back by the PO more than 3 years ago).

From the picture it appears that the paint is grainy and might have a slight orange peel effect. This means one of two things. Your paint is to thick and or your pressure is to low. What PSI are you running at? From your other comments I see you are using Mr. Color, since that is an enamel based paint you should thin it around a 1:2 ratio - 1 part paint to 2 parts thinner. That should help out a bit. With paint around that ratio you should be able to spray it at 20-30 psi with no issues. Also after you prime the piece you should scuff the surface with a red scotch bright pad lightly http://www.amazon.com/lot-Red-Scuff-Pads-Scotch-Brite/dp/B00MBPT0F8

This will help the paint have more a porous surface to adhere to. Let me know if you have any further issues from there.

https://www.amazon.com/Scuff-Pads-Scotch-Brite-Brand/dp/B00MBPT0F8/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_121_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C7559PZ1QF583C9YMRMX

Rub it down with one of those and it will polish it up, looks like it's just old wax seeing that you can scratch it.

From my research, this is the one people recommend.

Wash then clay then wax. I like to use a foam applicator pad like this.

A microfiber will work but you may end up absorbing more into the towel than actually applying it onto the car

Do you think it'd be worth the extra $5 or so to get the line of Chemical Guys Hexlogic pads seen here? Do you know how these pads compare in terms of quality and longevity?

If you want something cheaper, this has worked well for me.

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-4607-Velcro-Backing-Pad/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464048358&sr=8-1&keywords=astro+pneumatic+backing+plate

I finally stopped being lazy and fully read the 101 guide from the sidebar instead of skimming over it like I did last time. I think I understand now.

From my understanding and from these two charts: One. Two.

During the Polishing phase:

• Unless the paint/top coat is pretty badly damaged, I won't need to use a course/compounding agent on the polisher or a cutting pad.
  
  
• I can use a finishing pad on the polisher and something like the Motenza Power Lock that you mention every 6 months or so and apply the wax or some other kind of sealant to keep the paint protected.
  
  And I can just wash and use the quick detailer as needed in between to maintain?
  
  Also just noticed you're close to Dallas, I'm moving to the Houston area in the middle of this year for work!

A couple of notes I'll throw in, unless your car is heavily, and I mean HEAVILY contaminated, you shouldn't use the medium, you should use a fine. I bought an Astro 5inch backing pad on Amazon[https://www.amazon.com/Astro-4607-Velcro-Backing-Pad/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=pd_sim_263_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TXCWQPY3N4D5D1SA85JP]

For the Canadian guys, this is a pretty hot deal.
Chemical guys 6.5" pad kit with cleaner for $17.60.

https://www.amazon.ca/Chemical-BUF_HEXKITS_8-Hex-Logic-Buffing-Items/dp/B00BTGDRB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502489327&sr=8-1&keywords=CHEMICAL+GUYS+6.5

Haha whoops!

Here we go: Astro Pneumatic 4607 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JC2.ub12GYZ6D
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JC2.ub12GYZ6D

I hope I'm not late, I agree with code-sloth but I would add these http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-W0004-Foam-Applicator-pack/dp/B002J8379C/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&keywords=meguiars&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1450380856&ref_=sr_ph_1&sr=sr-1 instead of using the microfiber towels because I would find a little hard to get the collinite off the applicator pads, I can only imagine the microfiber towels and the smell of the collinite doesn't go away either; you should use them to remove the collinite.

I'm also a newb, but I bought the CG pad pack and there are a couple specifically for spreading and not cutting.

https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUF-HEX-KITS-8P-Hex-Logic-Buffing/dp/B00BTGDR9A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491425510&sr=8-2&keywords=chemicals+guys+hex+pads

As far as I can tell, that should work. Here's a polishing pad I found for you.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX_104HEX5-Hex-Logic-Light-Medium/dp/B0041MVQ4M/ref=pd_sim_auto_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CANS5K5E2Z6T3P56XXN

Do I only need one type of pad then? Just the Meg's 5.5" microfiber pads? I found these: http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMC6-Microfiber-Cutting-Disc/dp/B005JPJNO0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396544993&sr=8-1&keywords=6%22+microfiber+cutting+pad

Is there a polishing pad equivalent?

these are the pads

Also the pack came with two microfiber towels so I'll use those on windows then.

January 9th and female

Under 40

Under 20

just get this: https://www.amazon.com/Astro-4607-Velcro-Backing-Pad/dp/B003CH3Z8W

I think this will work right? http://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-4607-Velcro-Backing/dp/B003CH3Z8W/ref=cm_rdp_product

Torq22DDA: Torq22dD

Pads: ChemicalGuys orange then white for finish

Compound: Meguiar's M205

Ceramic Coat: Gtechniq Crystal Serum Light (didn’t use the exo to humid for application)

Sealant: Gtechniq C2 Liquid Crystal v3

Microfiber: Chemical Guys MIC_507_06 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towel, Gold (do not skimp out on your MF!)

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMC6-Microfiber-Cutting-Disc/dp/B005JPJNO0

Would this be a good separate polisher pad? I just got my orange pad today.

If you have enough coat built up, sand with 400, 800, and maybe 1500. Then use a buffing compound with some water and a pad on a ROS sander. If that doesn't add a glossy finish...Idk what will.

This Astro one is what I bought and it fits.

So with this kit I bought, should I start out with the light blue pad and work my way up?

Should I use the 105 or 205 with the microfiber pad? This is the one I have: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JPJNO0

And this is the "polishing disk" I have. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PYCXMUE Is this the correct pad for the 205?

I'll go first,

• Ryobi 1600PSI Electric Pressure washer, picked this up for $100 after a coupon, normally $120. I got in the mail a couple months ago. Just testing it out now and it seems to have just the right amount of power for automotive use. It'll clean the salt off my Charger and the Mud off my CJ.
  
  
• Chemical Guys BUFX Pads. Pretty much can't go wrong with anything from Chemical Guys from my expierance. These pads do an amazing job but if your technique is off or not mastered, you can do some damage.

I got mine off of Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Microfiber-Cutting-Disc-Correction/dp/B005JPJNO0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540510549&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=meguiars+of+cutting+pad&dpPl=1&dpID=51RBYBs5%2B-L&ref=plSrch


They have Xtra cut pads which are the same but are not as thick https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMX6-DA-Microfiber/dp/B00H5DOJIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1540510650&sr=8-13&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=meguiars+of+cutting+pad

DISCLAIMER: Fixing Scratches is an art, you should invest in a decent random orbital polisher, this will help with the polishing and minimize the damage you do. The pads will be based on how abrasive the polish is and how hard you want it to cut. Start light and move to more abrasive polish and pads if necessary. You can ruin the clear coat, create buffer burn areas and do some serious damage if you are not careful.

 

There are all in one products out there like Chemical Guys VSS ( https://amzn.to/2J1bJtS ) matched with an Orange Hexlogic pad ( https://amzn.to/2uvSg1e ) that starts abrasive and breaks down to a fine polish as you make additional passes. For a beginner this is a great place to start, if you are buying a Polisher the Torqx is a great polisher that won't break the bank and this link (https://amzn.to/2GTloly) bundles in some pads (including the orange hexlogic) and samples of a few of the polishes I use, V32, v34, v36 and v38 so if the VSS doesn't work you have some more aggressive stuff to work with.

 

VSS will work on most of the light scratches and paint transfer scuffs. I used it to remove almost all the blemishes and swirls on my wife's truck, however there were some instances where I needed to use the other more aggressive polishes then work my way up. This video gives a good explanation on the use of VSS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-hr71oylIM

This would be a nice little set to add to the DA.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUF_HEXKITS_8-Hex-Logic-Buffing/dp/B00BTGDRB8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395789961&sr=1-1&keywords=6+inch+buffing+pads

As far as the polishers and such, it would depend on how bad the swirls/scratches etc are.

You can pick up a Dual-Action polisher from Harbor Freight for about $50 with a internet coupon, and this Meguiar's kit comes with all the pads and compounds you need to do a full compound, polish, and wax. It is very newbie-friendly, and there is plenty of youtube videos and podcasts full of advice on how to use it from the actual engineers that developed it. Seriously, if you can't get all the swirls out with this system, it's because wetsanding first is probably needed.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-DMCKIT5-Microfiber-Correction-System/dp/B00CJ69F2W

oh boy now you are getting in detailing! what your going to need is meguiars 205 finish polish, a DA polisher. and a lake country orange cutting pad and a backing pad (theres one that comes with the harbor freight one, but its considered trash)

https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC?keywords=meguairs+205&qid=1536994013&sr=8-1&ref=sr_1_1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CH3Z8W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the backing pad I picked up. Sorry for the late reply though! I am currently looking at picking up these Lake Country pads. I was thinking 3 of the orange pads, 3 of the white, and 3 of the red? Either that or 2 of each.

I got them in this set and this is the orange pad after one use.

http://imgur.com/RvBNM9U

http://imgur.com/VQ7QeDw

Don't know if the divet in the middle is from too much pressure or poor quality pads. The White pad I used for polishing is fine.

3.) Is this what you bought? http://amzn.com/B00BTGDRB8 The blue stuff is pad cleaner, basically it's just APC. You use that to clean the pads after use. Do you have any more pads than that? You'll generally want one color (orange) for the compounding step, and a softer pad (white) for the polishing step. Make sure you have multiples so you don't have to wash pads between panels.

6.) I'd be a bit careful here. Collinite will work as a headlight sealant, but it is far from permanent, and once it wears off, you'll have to do it again. Opti-Lens, CQuartz, Gloss Coat, or even spray on clear coat are much more permanent. Again, Collinite will work, it just won't last forever.

7.) Please don't use a magic eraser. You really shouldn't need one. Just use APC, microfibers, and a brush if you need to scrub out some dirt. Magic Eraser is essentially fine sandpaper, so you have to be careful with it. There are some posts on here saying it is safe, and other people have bad results. Just be careful.

8.) This is personal preference. I'd waterless wash once a week or more depending on how dirty the car is. Pick up some Optimum No Rinse or something similar and dilute it to use as a waterless wash product. Then you can do a full 2BM every few weeks, or if the car is exceptionally dirty. You shouldn't need to polish again for a long time. On most cars, I would say you can get away with reapplying Collinite ~3 times a year. Polishing is up to you, but you just don't want to take off too much clear coat. You can always spot polish a panel if you notice some swirling. Also, you don't need to compound and polish every time. Once you do that initial compound, polish should be all the aggressiveness you need unless you don't protect the car.

Why a smaller pad size? Just to focus on a smaller area? Also what do you think about Chemical Guys Backing Pads. I'm not sure really which ones I would need though in terms of light/medium/heavy for cutting, polishing.

If that is correct for the steel wool would I be able to buff that out using the 1200 then 2000? I only did a couple passes lightly on the scratches with the steel wool, but the result is a "fuzzy" looking area with the rest of my car having that black gloss look. I'm not looking for perfection just not as noticeable as it is now since there isn't a luster/shine.

Thanks for the feedback!

If you are planning to detail for the long term, I'd suggest investing in some bulk / concentrated products rather than the consumer-grade & Ultimate Meguiar's line.

I've tried to break down the supplies I'd suggest. Of course, don't just throw out your existing supplies. Use them up and then get the concentrates / bulk.

Note: There's no need to get everything in this list. Just get what you need. There's also cheaper alternatives to several of the products, and probably cheaper sites than those in my links. Some of the products I use because I want to support the manufacturer and/or because I trust the manufacturer. Use what you like and use it often. :)

 

Dust, light bug gut, and light bird bomb removal / lube

• Garry Dean's Infinite Use Detail Juice
  
• Platinum Pluffle Premium
  
   
  
  Heavy bug gut and bird bomb removal / light grime removal
  
  
• Ultima Waterless Wash+
  
• Platinum Pluffle Premium
  
   
  
  Wheels & Tires
  
  
  Cleaning
  
  
• AMMO Brute Wheel Soap
  
• AMMO Plum Wheel Cleaner
  
• Wheel Woolies
  
• Uber Detail Brush
  
• Microfiber Wash Mitts
  
  
  Drying
  
  
• 400 GSM Waffle Weave towels
  
  
  Dressing
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
• Hexi-Grip Tire Gel Applicator
  
  
  Protecting
  
  
• Rejex
  
• Foam applicators
  
   
  
  Body
  
  
  Rinseless wash
  
  
• Ultima Waterless Wash+ (presoak)
  
• Optimum No-Rinse Wash & Wax
  
• 480 GSM Edgeless MF towels
  
  
  Two bucket wash
  
  
• Gilmore Foamaster II (presoak)
  
• AMMO Foam Paint Cleanser (presoak & main wash)
  
• Three 5 gallon buckets
  
• Merino Wool Wash Mitt
  
• Four Grit Guards
  
  
  Drying
  
  
• 320 GSM MF towels
  
• AMMO Hydrate
  
  
  Protecting
  
  
• AMMO Skin
  
• AMMO Creme
  
• Hexi-Grip applicators
  
   
  
  Glass
  
  
  Cleaning
  
  
• Stoner's Invisible Glass
  
• 300 GSM MF towels
  
  
  Drying
  
  
• 320 GSM MF towels
  
  
  Protecting
  
  
• Either Rejex or Nanolex Ultra Glass Sealant
  
   
  
  Engine
  
  
• P21S Total Auto Wash
  
• Chemical Guy's Grime Reaper APC (if needed)
  
• Uber Detail Brush
  
• 303 Aerospace protectant (Looks like you have this already)
  
• Autozone towels
  
   
  
  Exhaust
  
  
• Chemical Guy's Grime Reaper APC
  
• P21S Metal Polish
  
• Metal Polish MF towels
  
  
   
  
  Paint Prep
  
  
• Stoner's Tarminator (grime decon)
  
• Carpro Iron-X (fallout decon)
  
• P21S Total Auto Wash (clay pre & post wash)
  
• Clay
  
  
   
  
  Paint Correction
  
  
• PC 7424XP or, for more power, Griot's Orbital
  
• Compound
  
• Polish
  
• MF Cutting Disks
  
• Foam Polishing Pads
  
• 320 GSM MF towels (pad cleaning)
  
• Pad conditioning brush (cleaning + raise microfibers)
  

Going to order this pack of 2 - Meguiar's DMC5 DA 5" Microfiber Cutting Disc, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VG0N38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y58ODb2PE5GR4

These will cut more and be more effective than my current Uro-Fiber pad? Since the clear is hard should I be finishing and polishing using the Uro Fiber or a softer white foam? I ruined my Orange pad with the wrong brush/cleaning too aggressively.