Reddit mentions: The best body repair putty

We found 80 Reddit comments discussing the best body repair putty. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 22 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

4. 3M Acryl Putty, 05096, Green, 14.5 oz

Sale Unit: TUBEBrand: 3M3M Number: 05096Industry: AutomotiveProduct Type: Glaze
3M Acryl Putty, 05096, Green, 14.5 oz
Specs:
ColorGreen
Height3.5 Inches
Length8.5 Inches
Number of items1
Size14.5 Ounce
Weight0.992080179 Pounds
Width3.5 Inches
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13. Duraglas Fiberglass Filled Filler 1 Gallon

Duraglas - 1-Gallon
Duraglas Fiberglass Filled Filler 1 Gallon
Specs:
Height7.75 Inches
Length6.5 Inches
Number of items1
Weight11.1 Pounds
Width6.5 Inches
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14. POR-15 49239 Fuel Tank Repair Kit - Automotive, 1 Quart

    Features:
  • ✅ WHY CHOOSE POR-15 FUEL TANK REPAIR KIT? Our all-in-one fuel tank repair kit seals up to a 12.5 gallon fuel tank & in typical POR-15 fashion, will stop and prevent rust, corrosion, and seal pinhole leaks. With superior strength and fuel resistance your fuel tank will be impervious to all additives, fuels, including the stage II fuels with a higher alcohol content.
  • ✅ ALL IN ONE - Our POR-15 Motorcycle Fuel Tank Repair Kit has everything you need to do the job right. Each kit includes; Cleaner Degreaser to remove gum, sludge, varnish; Metal Prep to remove rust & prepare tank for sealer and lastly, fuel tank sealer which creates a permanently sealed tank. Detailed Instructions are included to take you easily through each step of tank restoration.
  • ✅APPLICATION - It is important to understand each product in your repair kit and how it works. Proper chemical interaction is essential for achieving the best possible bond of the sealer to the inside of the tank. Fuel Tank Sealer does not adhere well to plastic. If your fuel tank contains plastic components inside, they should be removed before applying Fuel Tank Sealer.
  • ✅ WHEN DO I NEED THIS? – Designed for the special needs of bikes and other small fuel tanks such as recreational vehicles, snowmobiles, outboards, generators, etc. When restoring & repairing your fuel tank, proper chemical interaction is essential for achieving the best possible bond of the sealer to the inside of the tank.
  • ✅ OUR SATISFACTION COMMITMENT - At POR-15 we strive to bring the ultimate in rust prevention. Known for the unbeatable 3-step stop rust system, POR-15 is trusted by DIY & Professionals. We are committed to innovation, quality control, and excellent customer service. If you are not satisfied, let us know & we’ll do everything we can to make it right!
POR-15 49239 Fuel Tank Repair Kit - Automotive, 1 Quart
Specs:
Height4.1338582635 Inches
Length3.93700787 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateMay 2015
Size1 quart
Weight1 Pounds
Width3.93700787 Inches
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15. U-Pol Products 0714 DOLPHIN GLAZE Self-Leveling Polyester Finishing - 440ml

easy to spreadUnparalleled adhesion propertiesExtra smooth
U-Pol Products 0714 DOLPHIN GLAZE Self-Leveling Polyester Finishing - 440ml
Specs:
Height1.57 Inches
Length10.24 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateSeptember 2014
Size440 Milliliter
Weight1.10231131 Pounds
Width4.92 Inches
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17. Tamiya America, Inc White Putty, 32g, TAM87095

Ages: 14+Tamiya P/N: 87095
Tamiya America, Inc White Putty, 32g, TAM87095
Specs:
Height0.9 Inches
Length5 Inches
Number of items1
Size1-Pack
Weight0.0220462262 Pounds
Width1.1 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on body repair putty

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where body repair putty are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 8
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
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Number of comments: 5
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Total score: 7
Number of comments: 1
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Total score: 4
Number of comments: 3
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Total score: 4
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 4
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 1
Number of comments: 1
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 0
Number of comments: 2
Relevant subreddits: 1

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Top Reddit comments about Body Repair Putty:

u/aldolega · 7 pointsr/rollerblading

Loootttts of experience with this. Honestly, nowadays, I'm as likely to get an arm workout at a session from rubbricking and/or filming as a leg workout from miszouing, haha.

I'm not sure what grit mine are, as Home Depot and Lowe's only sell one model each. In my experience the Home Depot ones are much better (bright blue handle), I got a bunch from Lowe's (darker blue rubberized handle) on closeout a year ago and they wear really fast. Not sure if the new brand Lowe's replaced those with is good or not, I'll know in a year or two when my current stash wears out.

The A-Mall video does a good job of covering basics, I'll make some additional points.

Ideally you want a virgin ledge- no wax, moss, paint, etc. Just bare-ass concrete. Once you wax the ledge, the effectiveness of your rubbrick goes down about 90%, as the wax smooths out/clogs your rubbrick. You can melt the wax later with a torch or lighter, and mop it up with some paper towels or try scrubbing it off with a wirebrush, but just try to keep your brick "dry" in the first place.

What I usually do is keep two or three bricks in my car's spot kit- one or two new-ish bricks, for the bulk of the work on clean/dry areas; and an older worn or cracked one, that is now the "junk" brick- this is used for blending into waxed areas, bricking something that's painted, trying to smooth out a section with old/shitty wax, etc. Basically for the messy stuff that you want to keep your newer rubbrick(s) away from until they're worn/cracked and they become the next junk brick. For this stuff I also find that using the corner/edge of the brick can be useful, and kinda scrapes the wax/paint off instead of it all adhering to the brick.

I usually 'brick and wax the top of the ledge a little wider than most people- i like to do about the length of the long side of the rubbrick from the corner. This is so if you touch a front or back wheel on a groove trick you don't stick as hard.

Use some muscle. This is going to be hard work. You only get one chance at this before waxing, so don't half-ass this. Do the top really well but also do a good job on the corner (or bevel if your locale likes beveled edges as much as Detroit), and the side. You put a lot of pressure into the side of the ledge with your frame when you lock or jump out of a soul trick, do don't skimp.

Ideally, wear some lung protection. A proper respirator, or a simple paper mask. If nothing else, pull your t-shirt up over your nose. You want to avoid breathing this dust in, it is not good for your lungs.

A soft-ish broom or masonry brush is best for dusting the ledge off, but you can improvise with a rag/towel/t-shirt, or a tree branch, or a newspaper. You'll figure it out. Keep your lungs protected during this part too!

Sweep the dust off the ground too! It's slippery and can get in your bearings and it just looks bad anyways. You should be a ninja with your street skating- leave as little evidence as possible.

Once it's dusted is when I personally will fill chunks/seams with Bondo Glass, which is Bondo with a fiberglass additive, which makes it very hard and strong when dry, unlike plain Bondo. This stuff:

http://www.amazon.com/272-Bondo-Glass-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000VKZ3JM

Depending on how much hardener you add, it can be dry and skateable within 20 minutes. Too much hardener and it's too stiff to work with though! Go for a dark dark brown consistency once mixed. Err on the side of less hardener if unsure. If you have helpers, rubbrick around the chunks and seams first, have one person work on the Bondoing while the others rubbrick the rest of the ledge.

I cut up old skate boxes into ~6"x6" squares for application- the shiny ones work best. One square for mixing, one for applying and shaping. Grab some paint mixer sticks for free from the paint department for mixing and scooping your Bondo onto your square. You can open the top of the can with a quarter if necessary.

Don't build up the Bondo past the level of the ledge. Ideally you want to fill the chunk/seam and have it be level. Don't work it too much, try to get it in the chunk and smooth it with one or two passes. With some practice you'll learn the right pressure to scrape it with to get it level with the ledge surface.

Some disposable gloves are really handy for the Bondoing- it sticks to skin quite effectively once dry.

Now you can wax. Some people swear by quick-drying spray lacquer before waxing but I've never found it to do much for me. It's cheap though so try it out if you want.

I like to do a first layer of harder wax (skate-branded wax, candles) and then a top layer of softer wax if necessary (paraffin/Gulf wax).

u/Meishel · 6 pointsr/Nerf

I run this instead of a Dremel brand tool. I have had a couple Dremels die on me over the years, so I tried this one and it has lasted 4 years so far! I also got a lot of my bits from harbor freight. I use the cuttoff wheels (ALWAYS WEAR FACE PROTECTION WITH THESE), Sanding Drums, and grinding stones the most. Use the cutoff for cutting out large swaths of material, sanding drums for tighter areas, and grinding stones to debur and smooth it all out. Most work that needs a dremel can be done with hand tools for better control. Coping saw, files, and flush cutters can go a long way. A lot of the "pros" don't use Dremels because they can jump out of control and hit a part of the blaster you planned on leaving stock and leaving a huge gash.

As for soldering Irons, I've heard wonderful things about this model, but cheaper models will work fine. TBH, I'd grab something in the $10 range and see if he sticks with the hobby. Maybe for christmas you can get him a nicer one if he's still going at it. I use a super duper old school Weller soldering station, so really anything will work. The issue you'll get with the cheaper soldering irons is the tips will tend to not last long and the heating element might crap out after a few months. Don't go cheaper than $10 here as some of them are meant for wood engraving, not soldering and wont get hot enough to melt solder. Any size solder is fine. I personally use lead/tin solder and just avoid breathing fumes as well as wash my hands when I'm done modding. Lead solder is MUCH easier to work with and requires less heat. Look for "Rosin Core solder" as it's easier to work with as it has flux in the center of the solder.

Good flush cutters, hobby knife, wire strippers, heatshrink, wire, loctite, etc are all valuable modding supplies. We sell some on our shop (shameless plug). I would recommend for plastic to plastic bonds he use Devcon Plastic Welder (make sure it contains Methyl Methacrylate as this acts as a solvent weld to bond the plastics together chemically instead of a weak adhesive grip like putty). Putty should be used as a filler material. I use two different putties. Free form Air for large amounts of gap fill, it is 6 times less dense than normal putty so it wont make the blaster weight 8 pounds when done. It is VERY easy to sand, but sometimes requires a thin layer of bondo over top of it to leave a perfect finish. I also use Apoxie Sculpt which is a direct replacement for normal putty for gap filling purposes. It's MUCH easier to sand than JB Weld putty, and leaves a nice smooth finish when sanded down.

Speaking of sandpaper, get various grades of sandpaper from 100 down to 600 grit (I go as far as 1000 if I want a gloss sheen on something).

Other than all of that, the tools I have on my bench that I would hate to mod without now are: Helping hands (for soldering), various different sizes of needle nose pliers, numerous sizes of small to medium screwdrivers, silicone lubricant, hot glue (for securing wires inside the shell), Electric Screwdriver, and various tweezers.

u/Eisenstein · 2 pointsr/audiorepair

I would take the driver assembly off of the frame (aka remove the thand use an epoxy specially formulated to bond plastic to glue the pieces together. I recommend JB PlasticWeld. You probably want to practice on something else before you try it on your cans, since it dries super quick and you only have one shot at this.

One that has fully cured (it says 1hr but definitely give it a full 24hours), I would wrap the cracked part of the frame tightly in a self-sealing tape. This is a rubber tape which resembles electrical tape but it has no 'adhesives'. What you do is stretch it out as you wrap it and then tightly overlay half of the width over your last pass each time. It will fuse to itself and should support it pretty well. Make sure you have enough clearance to put the layer of tape on and still reattach the driver assembly back on, because once it's one there it's not going to come off without a huge fight (which is the whole point). Again, practice beforehand on something else. I personally use the 3M brand all the time with good results, and it's super cheap. Link.

Good luck.

u/ZippyTheChicken · 2 pointsr/Autobody

yeah thats not too bad

remove those anchors and sand the area down

hammer that wheel well straight

then use some kitty hair to fill in the holes and remaining uneven areas

primer

matching paint in a rattle can and 2 coats of clear

it will take you a weekend

if your temps are still 70+ you need that to cure the filler and for the paint

its not going to look perfect but its not going to look like you were trying to hang drywall on your car.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-00277-Glass-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B000VKZ3JM

sandable primer filler .. many coats

a can of duplicolor spray paint and clear

​

and that depends on how much you care about the paint.. duplicolor will be better than you have if you spray just that area .. don't spray the door.. and the paint won't last very long maybe 1-2 years but its going to look better than holes.. if you want it to look good and last you have to use professional paint which will cost you about $100 for a kit of paint at a local autobody supplier with clear and then you need a compressor and paint gun.

vs $10 in spray paint at your local autoparts store for matching paint which might be kinda somewhat close .. don't paint the door or much of the quarter panel .. tape and news paper off everything but about an inch from the damage .. its gonna look better than it does and cost you $40 for both sides vs $400

u/TheDreadLobster19 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Alright i didn't really take any good photos of my work flow so ill do my best to put it in writing for you.
So Before I assembled any of the pieces they all got sanded in 120, 320, and 400 grit sandpaper. Then I joined all the blade pieces together with 3DGloop and filled as many of the joint cracks I could with Acryl Spot Putty. Then it was another pass with 320, and 400 Grit paper before the Blade got a coat with Filler Primer as for the handle I did the same sanding process for what I could but using a little 3DGloop and its included brush you can use it in light amounts as smoothing agent as well which helps a ton for the hard to reach areas on the handle. Then I joined all the parts together with 3DGloop, and applied more spot putty and sanded again. I gave the whole thing a few more coats of filler primer before going for color. I started color with gold hit those 3 spots, and after they dried I masked them off and hit the handle with purple. Once that dried i masked the handle and hit the blade with silver. For the "Dirt" in the cracks and recesses and the handle trim I used brown and light blue acrylic paint. I also used a little bit of Rub N Buff to give the blade a bit more of a shine. Once i did all that I shot it with come clear coat to lock it all in. Wow that was mouthful hopefully that helps you.

u/fuzzy_one · 2 pointsr/cosplay

The car filler is bondo yes it is easy to use and fairly easy to sand. Mix in small batches, about the size of a golf ball and spread with a plastic spatula that can be found at the store usually right beside the filler. I have found artistic palette knives help a lot in mixing and spreading as well. Then you will sand ->primer -> sand, (repeating with finer grit sandpaper and then finally painting when you are happy with the surface.

u/goesreallyfast · 2 pointsr/WRX

It doesn't look deep enough that you need to fill the gouges in.

I would hit it with probably 750 and up grit sand paper to smooth it down and give the paint something to stick to. Then use some paint to touch it up. I used the paint from the following link and am impressed with how well it matches the stock paint.

https://quiktouch.com/eng/products?car-alloy-wheel&type=62

​

After that Mask the tire and emblem off and give it a few coats of clear coat. I used duplicolor clear coat.

​

If the gouges are deeper than they look and you want to fill them in, I would recommend metal reinforced bondo:

https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-90451-Metal-Reinforced-Filler/dp/B010AGXBUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541192131&sr=8-1&keywords=metallic+bondo

​

I did all of this to one of my wheels because I didn't want to pay for someone else to do it, and I have to get withing 1 foot to be able to tell which wheel I did. And I can only tell because I didn't wait long enough between coats of color paint.

u/TheyCallMe_Whiskers · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Looks awesome man! As a note for the next one you can use bondo or a similar filler to get those seams smooth. I like this one: https://www.amazon.com/3M-05096-Acryl-Green-Spot-Putty/dp/B004BZOTQQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485847259&sr=8-1&keywords=acryl+green

P.S. Not an affiliate link, just trying to spread the good workd of acryl-green....smells better than bondo and isn't soylent green

u/Frauenarzttt · 3 pointsr/BMW

Looks great! I did this with my E39's style 42's a couple years ago. The process is pretty straightforward if you want to fix curb rash like I did. Pretty much just involves sanding the lip down, putting some bondo over the problem areas, sanding that down, then spraying it again (primer, silver paint, clear coat). I can answer questions you guys may have too, I'm pretty happy with how mine came out

EDIT (supplies I used):

Nice kit that comes with rags and the sprays you need

Bondo

Scotch Painters' Tape

I cut out a circular piece of cardboard to put over the inset part of the wheel (everything but the lip) and then I taped off everything but the very outer lip that was scuffed. I can't find the original DIY that I used but this is the process as I remember it (minus sandpaper details because I don't remember the exact grit), I'm sure if you googled around you could find something more detailed and with pictures.

u/Iowa_Dave · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use these sanding sticks a lot. I also use foam sanding blocks which make it a lot easier. I use really coarse like 80-100 grit and a light touch to knock down the layer ridges. Then I prime with the filler-primer and go back with 120 and then 400 grit paper.
Wet-sanding can get you an almost glass-like finish if you want, but it's a lot more time.

I generally sand/prime/paint individual pieces that are seperate colors. I leave some PLA exposed for some two-part epoxy which is AMAZING for holding PLA.

I've linked to AMazon but Home Depot/Lowes will have the sanding blocks and your local hobby-shop will have the epoxy, sanding sticks ad two-part epoxy.

For wood PLA I had to go a little lower than usual with my nozzle, it printed really well at 190°C and I had to print slow about 30mm/sec.

u/DoctorToonz · 1 pointr/DIY

JB Weld or equivalent 'paste' type epoxy.
Clean all the metal really well and follow up with a wipe-down of rubbing alcohol. Mix up the 2-part epoxy and use it like modeling clay to surround and cement together the parts you don't want moving.

This stuff is pretty permanent though. The legs will likely never move again.

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8267-SteelStik-Reinforced/dp/B00RN7CT2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510517068&sr=8-1&keywords=steelstik

u/108241 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Not OP, but Bondo is pretty common. However, you should wear gloves and a respirator when working with it.

I personally prefer wood filler. It's cheaper, and safe to work with your hands.

u/RodBlaine · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Acryl filler, from auto stores, works. Can be cheap and lasts a long time.

Perfect Plastic Putty and Vallejo Putty are both water based so are easy to clean. Just use a damp cotton bud or q-tip.

Superglue mixed with baby powder is what I use for large gaps. Don’t let it cure fully cuz after a few days it is very hard. But after a few hours you can sand smooth with the plastic, then rescribe. It’s rock hard as I said above and blends well.

For large gaps, start by filling the gap with bits of sprue. Then use favorite filler.

You can make a Mr Surfacer like putty by taking an old bottle of liquid glue, put some liquid glue in and add sprue and put lid on. Let sit until it’s a goo. Adjust the glue/sprue ratio until it is workable. This does take a little longer to cure, but when it does it is just like plastic.

u/Wirerat · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I have this ram but the ones that have the red heat spreader. It was not difficult to remove at all. I used a yellow spreader simular to these and it separated fairly easy. A credit card would also work.

u/TheGeorge · 2 pointsr/see

yeah I think you're right, a nice strong, non-toxic, water-proof, and heat-proof (to 500 degrees) putty such as QuikSteel

u/lolcorndog · 2 pointsr/boating

I find the epoxy way easier to work with than polyester. I really like the stuff both marine-tex and west marine. Here is another product I use and like

https://www.amazon.com/Duraglas-Fiberglass-Filled-Filler-Gallon/dp/B002I0MOY0

I believe this product is polyester based. This would be used with a gelcoat.

u/GeneralMalfunction · 1 pointr/MLPLounge

Ah yes, the spell of covering a torn bumper by turning into a Zebra.

To be honest, this stuff seems to work a lot better.

u/wwbubba0069 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Also add in, I like 3M Acryl Putty (green) over using Bondo spot putty for filling/leveling seam lines. Shrinks less, sands nice, and quick dry time.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-05096-Acryl-Green-Spot-Putty/dp/B004BZOTQQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1519392680&sr=1-1&keywords=3M+Acryl+Putty+green

and also using multiple colors of primer. Helps to show when you have sanded to far.

example https://i.imgur.com/AlpoREC.jpg

Can see where I was sanding and the red primer layer started to show up.

u/zordac · 1 pointr/gamecollecting

Taking the disc in/out of the clips is going to put pressure on that spot. The disc spinning on the spindle inside the cube can put pressure on that spot. It could easily spread.

I cannot see the other side obviously but it looks extremely close to the data section of the disc.

The crack can be "welded" using something like this epoxy. It will not be a pretty fix but it will prevent it from spreading. Doing this will reduce the value of the disc though so; a trade-off?

If it were me. I would contact the seller and tell them what you have found. Most reasonable sellers will work with you on either a discount or a refund. If the discount is large enough it may be worth just keeping as-is.

u/SynclinalJob · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I know I’ll get some shit for this, but, one time I had a Nissan that had a leaking fuel pump like this and I didn’t have a lot of money. So I cleaned the pump really well and shined a light on it while someone turned on the key and I found the tiny crack that the gas was coming out at.

So I went in my toolbox and found this plastic weld that I had bought previously. I put a coat, let it dry, put another coat and I drove that car for two years after that and never had a problem

I didn’t want to buy a cheaper autozone pump because they don’t last long and an oem pump is a lot of money

This is what I used.
J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nPSDDbTHPR411

u/Gaschguruofreason · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop

I used one quart for a 62 Falcon. But you’ll also need their degreaser and their metal prep to make sure it all sticks right.

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49239-Fuel-Tank-Repair/dp/B000H9K4K0/

The other option is instead of sealing (as long as there are no pinholes): after acid washing and rinsing it out you can follow up with a rinse of phosphoric acid as it chemically changes the rust from cancerous iron oxide to benign iron phosphate. (This was the VW prescribed method back in the day)

That’s not a bad deal for a new tank, acid washing and resealing takes a lot of time and effort, so that may be a better route. And of course it depends on what the cars purpose is, beater, daily, show, etc.

Edit: I just looked it up, the Falcon has a 14 gallon tank.

u/typicalCoder · 2 pointsr/autorepair

For the bondo do you mean something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-261-Lightweight-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9TO/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1507462655&sr=1-2&keywords=bondo?

And what did you mean by rattle can? Sorry I'm completely new to this body stuff.

Thanks!

u/channing173 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here is a picture of what I'm working with. The picture of the hole is near the bottom of the album.

I was thinking of using bondo or something like this.

Of the two, which is better?

u/theedang · 1 pointr/pcmods

What kind of case and what kind of switch? Do you have a picture? Are you sure you need a plastic filler and can't use something like a rubber moulding?

There are a number of epoxies and putties like auto body repair kits that you can buy that could do what you want, but most require careful application, then sanding and painting so you can get it flush.

I think this one could be a general purpose one to look at and work with.

u/mrhasselblad · 1 pointr/metalworking

I would except the bottom part is already installed on drywall (1600 qty) and sagging at a very popular outdoors brands HQ. Thus I'm going to attach another 1600 of the same angle iron (including countersunk holes for screws to attach to wall) to the top with some sort of adhesive in the hopes that they wont sag


Think of using epoxy putty?
https://www.amazon.com/Magic-6004TRI-QuikSteel-Reinforced-Counter/dp/B002UIZPR8

u/loopie_lou · 2 pointsr/cosplayprops

Get yourself some glazing and spot putty to fill any small to medium glue lines. A tube of the stuff will last a good long while, it’s cheap and fills small imperfections quickly, sands really easily and you can find it just about anywhere. I typically get mine from Walmart in the auto section near the bondo or at just about any auto parts store for around $10 US.


https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-801-Professional-Glazing-Putty/dp/B004BYKICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=glazing+putty&qid=1573106939&sprefix=glaz&sr=8-3

u/neuromonkey · 5 pointsr/howto

I tested a number of epoxies on plastics, and found JB Weld PlasticWeld to hold the best on the various plastics I tried. There are a variety of types of plastics, and what works on one won't hold another.

u/jwhite2386 · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

If it's just cosmetic, I'd take it to a shop and get it sanded and repainted (or do it yourself!). If it is cracked, there are plenty of ways to repair a crack with ABS cement. Ebay is only really if the fairing piece is beyond repair, since anything off of Ebay for a bike that old will not be in pristine condition. Get it fixed, I've always loved the way the 90's GSXR's look!

u/dragonvpm · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you don't want to use caulk, I'd suggest going with something inexpensive that comes in a small size, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1406699163&sr=1-9&keywords=fiberglass+repair+kit

or even old school JB Weld. I think silicone caulk could work well, but if it doesn't then something that cures hard might give you more satisfactory results.

u/LanFeusT23 · 1 pointr/DIY

Thanks JB Weld seems like it should do the trick?

u/Blovnt · 3 pointsr/fixit

JB Weld plastic epoxy works great for mending plastic.

I use it quite often.

u/69_sphincters · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

I'm going to try this metallic Bondo and hope it holds together for the next couple years....I can't justify all that money for a car as old as me. I just need reliable transportation, nothing too pretty. Though keeping this out of sight would also be nice, I can live without it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010AGXBUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_qRsFzbK5EP52V

u/GVSUbonnie · 3 pointsr/Nerf

For stuff like adding volume and smoothing out areas on my projects I usually use Bondo which is used for autobody work. After mixing it sets up quickly but allows time for working with it and its easily sanded once dry. Heres and example of what i use http://www.amazon.com/Bondo-261-Lightweight-Filler-Pint/dp/B0007ZG9TO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375750267&sr=8-1&keywords=bondo

u/YuuB0t · 4 pointsr/consolerepair

Try something like these

J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yRZRDbA3W8TM7

J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive Syringe - Tan - 25 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iRZRDbXEJ04NG

It's very important to let it cure for at least a day or two. Even then it wouldn't be very structurally sound. I would recommend swapping the shell, but if you're not experienced it might be something you would have to pay to have done.

Edit: I should probably add that you should try to cover the PCB so you don't get any spillage on it. Tape would do fine.

u/Dashybrownies · 2 pointsr/cosplayprops

Just grab some milliput, it's what I use for this purpose and it is pretty cheap for decent quantities on eBay in the UK.
Source: Also UK and make things.

EDIT:
Conversely, I've just looked this up, as suggested by the other human: https://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-PlasticWeld-Epoxy-50132-Plastic/dp/B009EU5ZMK

u/christophosaurus · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I've started using this spot putty instead of wood filler. It's a lot easier to spread thin and get into small gaps.

u/killubear · 1 pointr/Nerf

Both 3D printed accesoriees (the front left tactical rail for the flashlight and the 8 dart holder) were glued on using JB Plastic Weld. The front rail needed some additional support so it got some hot glue on the sides too.

u/blueunitzero · 1 pointr/projectcar

DA some people call them orbital sanders

cant give you any paint recommendations im just the body guy so i just use whatever spray can the painter throws at me for small stuff.

black is notoriously hard because gloss black turns your car into a mirror that highlights every imperfection, that said, flat black can be hard because it has a tendency to get all tiger stripey if your overlap isn't consistent and you arent putting down a consistent coat

if you just have a couple small spots and haven't bought your bondo yet i suggest you use this its ideal for small nicks, scratched and dings under a quarter in size

u/xbnrxout · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87095-White-Putty-32grm/dp/B000R9N5VU

This allows you to control the amount you put in. Hardens quite quickly, and is easily sandable. This was made for plastic models

u/Chagrinnish · 2 pointsr/DIY

Example

Underneath that white lid there should be a tube of hardener. When you're buying it make sure it's present; sometimes it gets snatched.

u/OMAHGAD · 7 pointsr/boardgames

JB PLastic Weld for the tank. Saved my ass when I accidentally snapped off one of the ram clips in my computer. Works just like it sounds. Good as new.

u/kingsheepman · 1 pointr/fixit

Use expoxy putty like J-B Weld Plasticweld epoxy putty https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=Plastiweld&qid=1574710414&sr=8-2. I used it before to fix a cracked garbage bin. It dries tough and quite sturdy. Although keep in mind, when it is dried/hardened, the color is white.

u/asok0 · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

As others have said, Trex is a soft material prone to scratching. This is not something I would expect a contractor to "fix".

That said. The manufacturer recommends this product to repair scratches.

http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-SFSS100-Clear-Scratch-Seal/dp/B0056GUSNM

http://www.trex.com/why-trex/faq/

Ask him if he can do that and be done with it.

u/allnutty · 1 pointr/VintageApple

Could you use something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/JB-Plastic-Weld-Fast-setting-Reinforced/dp/B003S2E4UE ?

Then potentially sand down, there will be a blemish - but it won't but a big crack instead

u/adpbsc · 2 pointsr/Sculpture

Have you tried UPOL Dolphin Glaze? Link is for Amazon UK but it's available in the US too. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0038D8KXU/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_10?colid=N29TIXLL22U4&coliid=I2WML9AU50H7O1

u/fastfastslow · 2 pointsr/sewing

I would apply a small drop of oil to the clamp before you use it. If it happens again, you can try filling in the groove with a metal epoxy like this.

u/ev3rm0r3 · 3 pointsr/fixit

If qbond doesn't work for you there is also a 2 part molding clay that will stick/mold to anything and then you can filed it down to at least look aesthetically usable. Holds anything from plastic, wood, metal, obviously get the right type for this JB Plastic Weld

Too give you an idea, its held my 8 inch cracked bumper together for 2 years only by applying it to a the surface inside, its held/sealed a crack in my parents basement shower that i used for 2 years before I moved out, and It sealed a radiator leak that constantly sits at whatever the engine coolant temp gets too. Just mold your headphones with it where they fit and they'll never break again, at least not where it was welded.

u/MSD0 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If the surface around the chip isn’t raised, I would fill the chip with glazing putty (you can get smaller sizes at most automotive part stores) until level.

u/juttep1 · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Two part epoxy might work? JB plastic weld

u/metalkamikazee · 2 pointsr/RandomKindness

Im currently working on a pepakura iron man helmet/suit. I'm in need of bondo body filler to be able to paint it smoothly. pigfarts

u/strwrs12 · 1 pointr/cosplayprops

When you say spot putty, do you mean this ?

u/Miikeski · 2 pointsr/metalworking

I just use bondo. this stuff

u/IN_U_Endo · 2 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Use this type of JB Weld, 5 bucks and your troubles are over

Remove the bolt, clean the area, set the jb weld, leave it for 1 hour, drill and tap. Grind off external excess. Done

u/rebelx · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

Are either one of these the right product?

The water reservoir is made out of plastic (I believe), but the first one is specially for wet use and the second one is more geared towards different types of plastics moreso than the first one.

Not sure what to pick. What do you suggest?

u/e39 · 4 pointsr/RetroPie

> First, how do I patch holes in the plastic

You really can't unless you want to repaint the entire SNES case. You'd need to use Bondo, fill it, sand it, prime, then paint ... or spend $6 on a new shell and be done with it.

>how do I smooth out the edges of the holes I cut.

Use a fine grit file. You gotta remember that filing eats away at material too. Make your initial cut smaller than you need, then file it to the proper size.

u/kay_bizzle · 1 pointr/Aquariums

The brace on my 37 tall broke during a move, so I used jb weld and a thin strip of plexiglass to reconnect and brace the brace. Sort of a braceception type situation.

u/JabbaThatButt · 2 pointsr/somethingimade

I'm no u/thebearjew333, just some passerby. Hey, you could maybe cut up some thin tin or aluminum sheet and J B Weld putty together the petals.

u/RussiaCalling · 2 pointsr/techsupport

You could try some epoxy putty, e.g. https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/

Might be easier if you can get the metal inserts (nuts) out of the hinge, then you can put the putty in/around the damaged holes in the casing and screw the inserts into that, you could put the screws in the inserts while scrweing them in, to avoid any epoxy getting into the threading.
It should also work with the inserts still in the hinge, might just be a bit more difficult.