(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best motorcycles books

Ok so it sounds like there are a lot of questions and the best way to answer those is in a video where I can demonstrate with examples. Here are the questions so far which I will address in my next video, feel free to ad to this list:

1. Why is it single sided, does it have to be single sided and are there any downsides to it being single sided?
   
2. Why explore alternative trail?
   
3. How does the Funny Fork enable testing of multiple wheel paths and suspension configurations, and how will that enable exploration of trail?
   
4. How is braking force handled and in what ways do linkage suspension systems offer different handling characteristics in this area?
   
   Before I dive into those questions I want to cover some history. Linkage forks have been in existence long before telescopic mechanisms became dominant. Designs started as simple leading link or trailing link mechanism but quickly advanced including dual links, girder forks, semi telescopic mechanisms, with the linkage system ultimately culminating(imo) in the Valentino Ribi designed straight line linkage wheel path and other advancements of previous designs(bmw duolever, telelever, etc..). Some masters in this field include Tony Faole, who wrote the book Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Dynamics, Valentino Ribbi, Norman Hassock. These individuals have left a legacy of data and information but not enough to satisfy my curiosity. Tony Faole spent a lot of time testing and proving zero or no trail road suspension for the purposes of understanding what kept a bike upright. Long after his experiments Jim Papadopoulos and his research team set about to quantify what kept a bike upright and the functions which went into steering and the self centering effects of a bike.
   These ideas were what led to this exploration. Bikes have changed, tire volumes have increased, slip angles have changed, data collection has improved, and my curiosity is still here, so the Funny Fork was created. My philosophy for approaching the project as an Experimental Prototype was inspired by my time building and setting up race cars. The process of building and setting up the suspension and handling of a race car for a driver often involves working with the abilities of the pilot and their capacity to use the available equipment. Sometimes this meant setups or handling characteristics which, others drivers, on any given day, may say were slower, but on this day with that pilot this setup and those conditions, we won. Is there a benefit to having varying degrees of setup within a suspension package, setups which allow for changes in geometry previously fixed by the nature of a technically superior package(telescopic fork)? That is what we want to know and better understand.
   
   Thanks a ton for all the feedback and responses, i'm excited for the future and hope something is learned in this process. More videos to come!
   
   
   
   
   
   

Glad to see you have the faster blue fz6 as well!

First recommendation, buy the Haynes manual! It will come in handy if you plan on doing any work yourself!
Also check out the boneman's mods here. He was an active member of the forums in the past I guess, and though his mods were for the older gen fz6's they are all still pretty relevant. It's a good place to get some ideas!

I'm almost at 28k miles on my fz6 and it's running great. Just did the valve service myself this last weekend and that is really the biggest maintenance you've got to worry about. A common issue I've seen on the forums is the steering head bearing wearing out quickly. It's pretty easy to check, just put the bike on it's center stand and put the front wheel in the air. Then, turning the handle bar all the way side to side and feel for any resistance, it should move very freely, any resistance should be pretty noticeable. Also, with the front wheel in the air, if you grab the front and back of the front tire and move it back and forth it shouldn't be loose feeling at all. If it is, the steering head bearings need replaced.

Since nobody has said it, maybe the clutch and throttle cables could use some lubing. When I bought my fz6 the clutch cable needed it badly. Make sure to clean and lube that chain too.

I would disagree about K&N air filters, some reading on the fz6 forums made me against them. Just that they have wide air gaps that filter less which is why there is supposedly a slight improvement in power, but you're filtering less... which is not really good because you don't want junk in your engine. But anyway!

Possibly replace the spark plugs too. Or at least check them and make sure the gap is in spec.

I would get some frame sliders quickly just in case. Motivation is supposed to be the best, according to webbikeworld and is what I've got on mine. Plus you can rest your feet on them on longer rides.

Depending on what you plan on using the bike for you could get some Givi hard cases. I've got a givi top case with the leather padding, great for carrying stuff and my girlfriend is super comfy and feels much safer with a rest.

I could keep recommending mods but that isn't what you asked for so I'll stop :)

I've done similar trips with both car/bike from New England to down there. I'd say skip Skyline Drive. It's nice, but it's really slow and IMO the scenery and riding is waay better on the BRP. If you are going to do the whole BRP, I would suggest planning on two days to do it. You'll want to stop a lot and take pictures and explore little things, plus you have to get off the parkway to get gas/food and that can easily eat up an hour here or there. Blowing Rock, NC is a nice place for a pit stop btw, I recommend the Blowing Rock Ale House. Like another user said, check out the "Back of the Dragon" - great riding. There's actually a TON of great riding all along the BRP. I'd suggest picking up the book "Motorcycle Journeys Through the Appalachians" to give you some ideas:

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Journeys-Through-Appalachians-2nd/dp/1884313485/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1491137415&sr=8-2&keywords=Motorcycle+Journeys+Through+the+Appalachians

Also, that book has a bunch of routes through PA and WV which I imagine you'll have to travel right through from Toronto, so maybe you can incorporate some of them into your trip.

While the BRP is fantastic, and I practically had a religious moment riding the whole thing and being drunk on scenery, the really great riding is to be found just off it and you REALLY need to explore off it if you are coming all the way down. If you are riding the whole thing, Asheville, NC is a fantastic place near the tail end of it - if you like good food and craft beer it should not be missed. Definitely spend a day there if you can.

So, judging by the comments is this actually you or is it your friend? Either way, 90% of us (myself included) went through the squidly phase of "trying" to drag knee, and posting evidence of such transgressions on reddit is not going to end well.

Kudos to whoever that is for at least doing it in a more controlled environment than a two-lane road. Now that he has got it out of his system, as others have said, he needs to work on the actual techniques that will make dragging knee more of an option than a goal. Getting a knee on deck should be the consequence of proper body position, decent lean, and a knee slightly extended. What he is doing looks and feels unnatural, but optional kneedown territory looks and feels natural, and the knee only needs to be out a tiny bit to touch. Now, the fledgling squid may say in their defense "No way man I was barely trying to stick my knee out". However, the dead giveaway is the distance from the foot-peg to the ground. A "natural" knee down comes when the pegs are just about touching the ground.

He didn't crash so his technique can't be too terrible, but I would say; his head needs to be more towards the inside of the turn, he should probably scoot his butt back and lean his upper body more forward/down, his foot needs to be more towards the inside of the peg, and his knee to be to be in a lot more.

If your friend is interested in becoming a proficient, quick, and safe rider, two excellent books are Nick Ienatsch's "Sport Riding Techniques" and Keith Code's "Soft Science of Road Racing Motorcycles" Nick's book is more of an all encompassing road/track guide that has tons of good information including proper body position. The "Soft Science" book is a bit more advanced and goes a more into theory and what one can do to make themself a more adaptable and competent decision maker on the bike.

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https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Riding-Techniques-Develop-Confidence/dp/1893618072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541093996&sr=8-1&keywords=sport+bike+riding+techniques

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https://www.amazon.com/Soft-Science-Roadracing-Motorcycles-Procedures/dp/096504503X

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Lastly, don't necessarily listen to the more "refined" riders who tell you not to drag knee. Riding a motorcycle is about fun, and sticking a kneedown is fun as hell, even if you don't need to. The point is to make sure you FIRST learn the techniques that allow you to do it safely, and to do it in a controlled environment (the track).

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While it's not the most scholastic source (the owner sometimes writes subjective things on objective topics), AmericanRails is probably the most comprehensive easy-to-navigate free site and is a great way to learn about general North American rail history for free. Wikipedia is hit-or-miss as always, with some very comprehensive articles and some that are just a few lines and a picture, but the fact that it's free makes it worth a look.

You mention the east coast, do you mean the Northeast Corridor specifically or the entire coast? If you mean the NEC, the line was operated for most of its history by the New Haven RR and the Pennsylvania RR, which would later both become Penn Central before Amtrak took over operations of the NEC. If you mean the entire coast, I'll need another comment for that.

Unfortunately this hobby's best information about historic railroading is almost entirely book-based, so to get everything you'll have to invest in some books. Anything by Kalmbach will be accurate, comprehensive, and hopefully not too hard to read, this is a good historical summary. I have this book, and I think it's a good summary; the language isn't difficult and there's plenty of pictures. I've seen people recommend this one, it's less of a history book and more of an encyclopedia of nearly every major North American railroad. These books cover general topics; there's been scores of books written about every railroad that exists/existed. If you can help refine the location/area, we can try to find more specific information.

You are looking for part #24 on this fiche: http://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/1981-suzuki-gs450l/o/m21417#sch263854

While you are at it, I would replace the clutch cable, and all of the screws/bolts holding that in and in the area. I hope you have good metric tools, or be prepared to buy some new wrenches!

Here is the Clymer book for your bike, it is truly an invaluable resource.
http://www.amazon.com/Suzuki-GS400-450-Twins-Chain-1977-1987/dp/0892872373/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413214095&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=clymer+81+gs450

If you have more questions, head on over to www.gsresources.com , that is a great forum for these bikes. There you will find a member by the name of bikecliff, he has a great website/guide for these bikes, located at http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

I have used his guides for everything I have done on my bike and it hasn't led me wrong yet. It is always better to do your own work!!

I am also moderator of a small subreddit called /r/Suzuki_gs . we would love to have you over there!

Where are you located?

I am not going to make a visual one because I suck at that, but here is a picture of him and here is what the text would say.

"Thanks Dad for raising all of us by yourself without complaining. Thanks for pushing us into doing the best for ourselves and going to college (even though you never graduated high school). Thanks for learning how to braid hair, sew, and not to be freaked out by the 'feminine products aisle'. Thanks for teaching me how to when a fight with words even if I know how to use my fists. Thanks Dad and I love you!"

Now I am all emotional. :C

Can we pick two items? If so, this book and this book. for Father's Day

I'm going to recommend something a little unconventional around here: an actual paper book.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760313318/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_6wgwybXHCREVS

I bought this sort of on a whim when I started riding and was in the same position as you, and it was unbelievably informative and interesting to read. Its slightly out of date in that it precedes the advent of common electronic aides, but 100% of the stuff in the book is useful.

Also, while I'm recommending books for new riders, Lee Park's "Total Control" (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0760343446/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_Mxgwyb3MVM3CF) is an absolutely brilliant book. Its specifically about street riding (as opposed to track) and is targed towards newish riders. This book basically singlehandedly changed me from a hesitating novice to a confident (though a little reckless, it taught me to ride well but doesn't teach thoughtfulness the way Keith Code does) rider.

And, of course, the great grand daddy of them all, Twist of the Wrist 2 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/0965045021/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_aygwyb1BB573F). This book is so good and so dense that I still find new things to practice every page or two. The definitive riding technique book for good reason. No, you don't need to read part 1.

Here's a list, off the top of my head - I know all these are on my bookshelf, but I'm probably missing a few more:

Hell's Angel: The Life and Times of Sonny Barger and the Hell's Angels Motorcycle Club by Sonny Barger

Freedom: Credos from the Road by Sonny Barger

Ridin' High, Livin' Free: Hell-Raising Motorcycle Stories by Ralph Sonny Barger

Dead in 5 Heartbeats by Sonny Barger

Under and Alone by William Queen

No Angel: My Harrowing Undercover Journey to the Inner Circle of the Hells Angels by Jay Dobyns

Hell's Angels: A Strange and Terrible Saga (Modern Library) by Hunter S. Thompson

Street Justice by Chuck Zito

The Original Wild Ones: Tales of the Boozefighters Motorcycle Club by Bill Hayes

Ghost Rider: Travels on the Healing Road by Neil Peart

The Masked Rider: Cycling in West Africa by Neil Peart

Against the Wind: A Rider's Account of the Incredible Iron Butt Rally by Ron Ayres

Shop Class as Soulcraft: An Inquiry into the Value of Work by Matthew B. Crawford

Honda CB750: The Complete Story by Mark Haycoc

Shovelhead Red The Drifter's Way by Roy Yelverton

Shovelhead Red-Ridin' Out by Roy Yelverton

A Twist of the Wrist 2: The Basics of High-Performan​ce Motorcycle Riding by Keith Code

Total Control: High Performance Street Riding Techniques by Lee Parks


Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry into Values by Robert M. Pirsig - Still my favorite. A high school english teacher bought it for me when he found out I had just passed my motorcycle road test. I've read it at least 15 times, and get something new from it each time.


But the best recommendation - Buy the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for your bike and read it. Read it often, until you can almost turn to the exact page for each procedure.

Has she read "The Perfect Vehicle"? May I suggest reading the Foreward (not available in the preview): "But the rider has never known fear quite like the one when riding just ahead is the object of deep affection." It's very moving and might provide the ever-so-slight shift needed for a willing passenger to become a willing rider. I love my wife holding on to me (or me onto her) but there's real magic when I see her riding beside. It's a long-distance, very intimate, and very public dance.

Just trying to put one more rider on the road, and help loving partners find one more shared activity.

If you haven't already, get the Clymer manual. I can't seem to find a Honda Service Manual, so this one will probably have to do.

Bike Bandit seems to have a good availability of parts for your carb. The gasket set looks cheap, as that's the most likely thing that'll need replacing first. Give the whole assembly a good cleaning and inspection.

Check for cracks and tolerances in both brakes and the chain, any looseness in the steering and wheel bearings, and pitting on the travel area of the fork tubes. Put some new fork oil in if the seals are ok (probably not, but who knows?).

Check for corrosion on electrical contacts (especially grounds) and sand them clean as required. Use dielectric grease to prevent future corrosion.

There is a much bigger list of possibilities, but that's part of the fun of owning an older bike. You get to know it like the back of your hand and will feel ever so satisfied when you fix something and it actually works. The more complex the bike, the more rare this is in my situation.

Just get it running and stopping properly and ride the shit out of it, you stupid lucky bastard.

If he's into vintage bikes, this book Motorcycle: The Definitive Visual History is on Amazon for as low as a few bucks. It's got great reviews and it's been on my wish list for a while. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0756690528 I think it would make a great gift for a bike history buff.

On another note, I wish that my girlfriend would look at my wish list.

My wife and I did 3 weeks touring through the Alps and Western Europe a few years ago. It was absolutely amazing, and I'd go back in a minute.

For anyone who's considering such a ride, pick up a copy of Motorcycle Journeys Through the Alps and Corsica by John Hermann. Get it now, and read through it before hand. It's well worth the time, and you're guaranteed to find some unique routes and stops (ever walked through a glacier?).

Here's an excerpt to show you the level of detail he goes into.

There are several biker-friendly towns in the area, such as Andermatt, which is centrally located with awesome hotels, most of which have covered bike parking. All of the roads leading out of the village are world class. Just pick a direction and then go. Interlaken is also good, as are a few of the other villages, but Andermatt is the best choice. Here is a pic of our hotel there:



Oh, and get a huge memory card for your digital camera. You're gonna need it.

http://www.repairmanual.com/product/used-1978-1982-honda-cx500-factory-service-manual-u6141505/

Also try ebay for a Haynes manual, Clymer makes one, but I prefer the Haynes, if it's available...

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Honda-V-twins-Haynes-Repair-Manuals/dp/1850101574

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=Honda-V-twins-Haynes-Repair-Manual+CX+GL+500&LH_BIN=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.X1978-1986+Honda+CX500+GL500+CX+GL+500+650+Silverwing+HAYNES+REPAIR+MANUAL.TRS0&_nkw=1978-1986+Honda+CX500+GL500+CX+GL+500+650+Silverwing+HAYNES+REPAIR+MANUAL&_sacat=0

Seriously, if you go to the library, they can order it in if it's not on the shelf... and you can read all about it. I like having my own.

Good luck. That other rider is right, the forums are great.

(1977 stock naked Goldwing Gl1000)

You’ve got most of the basics. You’re starting out a lot more informed than most.

Not sure what country you’re in but if you have local training classes available, take them. Always keep learning.

Always remember that being in a hurry almost never gets you there that much faster. A couple minutes (if that) is not worth the risk of hurrying and not paying attention.

Even if you have the right of way, that will not console you from the hospital bed. Sure, you may have been in the right and they should have stopped. And yes they will hopefully cover your medical bills and totaled bike. But wouldn’t you rather just avoid all of that in the first place? We cannot afford to hold our own while riding. Make yourself visible and always use your lane space to your advantage, but give way if needed.

These two books have an amazing amount of practical knowledge for street riding:

[Street Strategies](Street Rider’s Guide: Street Strategies for Motorcyclists (Motorcycle Consumer News) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081326/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ijwaCb4M23P86)

[Proficient Motorcycling](Proficient Motorcycling: The Ultimate Guide to Riding Well https://www.amazon.com/dp/1620081199/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DlwaCbBZ1YK5Q)

Start off with a Haynes manual like u/Kartious said. It's as good a starting point as any and will familiarise you with your machine and the procedures which can be mostly repeated across all machines.

Haynes also do some great general workshop manuls like The Motorcycle Tech book and the Motorcycle Electrical tech book both of which are on my wishlist despite a certain degree of mechanical savvy from years of tinkering and a father who was father engineer.

You've also got things like Diploma Motorcycle Maintenance and Repair which is going to be more advanced and in depth. It's an academic text book at NVQ lvl 2, so it's advanced but shouldn't be dauntingly so after you're familiar with common procedures, fault finding and mechanics and will provide an excellent overview and in clear stages of progression as well.

I got mine off craigslist. But be careful, make sure you ask to look at it first and give it a good look. Make sure it doesn't sputter or have ignition problems. Check for rust or damage. Check the throttle and make sure it has a little play but is still responsive. You don't want a scooter with either too tight of a throttle (means it hasn't been used in a while and is stiff) or too loose of a throttle (It means it's been used pretty hard and rough).

If you can ask for a maintenance log I would (receipts or user logs of work done with dates). I purchased a motorcycle that cost me $600 in tune up repairs. The previous owner hadn't changed the spark plugs or the oil in years.

Once you purchase the scooter I would advise giving it a complete maintenance. Change out the oil (you don't know how long the previous owner left it in there). Check all the fairings and bolts to make sure they aren't loose. Replace the air filter. I would also, personally, put new tires (since I don't know the state of them and don't want one to break on me mid drive).

At the very least when you go to check out a scooter just check all the metal parts to make sure there is no rust and check the plastic parts of evidence of damage (such as falling off or from an accident). They are clear and visual signs.

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My last suggestions will be to check out /r/scooters for advice and maybe buy a scooter/motorcycle maintenance book. You can get one for like 8 bucks at any bookstore.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Owners-Manual-Hugo-Wilson/dp/0789416158/ref=sr_1_4?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1426186391&sr=1-4&keywords=motorcycle+maintenance

This is the one I have. Even though the title states Motorcycle, it has information about scooters as well. The only bad reviews on the site come from experienced people that are complaining about a book made for beginners.

Stuff like this: "Don't by this if you are expecting any in-depth technical information as its not much better than a simple owners manual".

The book is not meant to be in-depth. It's supposed to be entry level. If your scooter doesn't come with a manual, it's a good basic start.

Theres lots of stuff on youtube as far as tune up, carb cleaning, oil changing, that sort of thing. Like you said you can find stuff thats not running and fix it. They can seem overwhelming but if you break them down system by system then all of this is really easy. Ive never read this one but Ive heard its pretty good. https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Repair-including-engines-Manuals/dp/1850106665

I've used this one as a guide for upgrading the suspension on my motorcycle and many more projects to come.

http://www.amazon.com/Sportbike-Performance-Projects-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760313318/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1279671110&sr=1-1