Reddit mentions: The best box wrenches

I would buy a Haynes manual for your car. If you can't get one from Haynes or Amazon, eBay should have a second hand one for very little. This will give you all the advice and guidance you need on maintaining your car. It will also provide some help on buying tools. It should also allow you to do a lot of 'inspection' work yourself - so I wouldn't bother taking it to the professionals for that unless you find something wrong that you don't think you can handle yourself.

The light thing is normal. As long as they go off when you start the car, that's fine.

In terms of tools, I'd start modestly and then buy extra stuff when you need it. But these are things you will need to get started:

• Socket set: I would get one that only has metric sockets (as you won't have much use for the imperial ones on modern cars). You will probably need at least the following size sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm. German cars use a lot of 16mm but they are fairly uncommon elsewhere. You may need to fill the 'gaps' in as you do more work. Try to get one that is aimed at mechanics as this will have useful extras that you will need such as 'deep' sockets and spark plug sockets. My best advice would be to get a fairly large one with 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4" ratchet wrenches (the wrenches are still measured in imperial - the sockets themselves will still be metric). If you can't afford this, a joint 1/2" and 3/8" would do, or maybe just a 3/8" set at a pinch. You don't need really expensive ones but avoid very cheap sets. Expect to pay at least $50+ for a decent set. This one is aimed at mechanics and includes some of the other stuff in the list below. It's at the cheap end of the market but should be fine to start with for occasional work. But if you can afford a better one I would spend a bit more.
  
  
• Screwdrivers: flat head and Phillips (cross-head)
  
  
• A set of hex keys ('Allen wrenches') like this one
  
  
• A set of 'combination' wrenches with one 'open' and one 'closed' end like this.
  
  
• You should also get at least one torque wrench. This makes sure you tighten nuts, etc. to the correct tightness. I may seem like a luxury but I assure you it's not. You'll probably need to cover a range of torques from about 25Nm to 120Nm for basic tasks.
  
  
• Other wrenches such as a water pump wrench, a 'mole grip' and some pliers would also be useful.
  
  
• A rubber mallet is also useful.
  
  
• You will need a jack and axle (axel) stands, too.
  
  
• Good 'medium range' brands like Draper or Laser will be fine and probably last a lifetime for occasional use.
  
  That should set you up. I'm sure I've forgotten a few things and other people will add useful suggestions. It may seem quite a big outlay on tools at the start but you'll soon get your money back with saved garage bills. You'll probably become more attentive to your car's needs too and prevent many major problems arising. It's not very hard to do basic oil changes, filter changes, brake work, etc. and you might even find that (like me) you come to really enjoy it.
  
  Good luck!

I was actually looking at these Tekton double box end wrenches I'm not thrilled that they're 6 point but it seems like my best option as of now. If I go that route, I'll definitely get the 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, and 14mm but I'm not sure if I should get anything bigger or even some SAE ones if I'm helping someone else.

I highly recommend an electronic torque wrench.
The mechanical ones are very inaccurate at the bottom end of range. Head bolts are often at the bottom or below what they can even be set to.

I use this one and it works amazingly well. It can accurately go down to 3ftlb. You can set the desired torque and it has a beep alarm as you approach, reach, and go over the threshold. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VYUKTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I also recommend flying with a very basic set of tools. I fly with some hex keys and wrench that fits all the sizes on my paramator. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F512F74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Siphon is nice to get fuel out of paramotor. This one works amazingly for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKW15ZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio chest harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007HJKSG8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I added a draw cord to attach my phone to. Phone then tucks into the velcro pocket and is secured by one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H4E9Z6O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's powerful enough to draw in a medium weight phone.


Hook knife: https://superflyinc.com/products/jack-the-ripper-hook-knife


Power floats: https://glidersports.com/shop/powerfloat-2bsure/

Waste flotation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013RLI9XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Cut prop tape strips out of this: https://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Clear-Paint-Protection-60-inches/dp/B004VG8DS0/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1534535837&sr=1-9&keywords=3m+scotchgard


RTV silicon to put on exhaust springs to reduce vibration fatigue: https://www.amazon.com/Rutland-500%C2%B0RTV-High-Silicone-Black/dp/B000H5Y6CQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534352404&sr=1-5&keywords=heat+resistant+silicon+rtv


Motor tachometer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GTP6ORC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Radio: I recommend the FT60 or FT65. The 60 model is tried and true and can also be modded to RX aviation band. FT65 has newer display and is cheaper having been made in China.

In fact it does not get the job done, and is difficult to use if there are features around the bolt. Not a bad thing to carry on multipitches as it will get the bolt tight enough to be safe for the time being and doesn't add additional weight. Unfortunately you can't apply enough torque that it won't soon become a spinner again, so it is better to carry a real wrench when sport climbing. Craftsman Offset Ratchet Box End Wrench, 1/2 x 9/16 inch, 9-43363 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9E7A72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MUWizb90PGW2Y that's a nice one, 6 point head is even better if you can find it. Know that there is a max torque spec for these expansion bolts for 1/2 SS bolts common in the RRG it is 25ft lbs.

You need an offset wrench. Amazon would be happy to sell you a set of 8 for $22

I've ordered a set of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004GY24EQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
so the nozzle should be held inside after it's free from the heatblock

I bought a Craftsman offset wrench on eBay. Does both kinds of posts. Really useful.

Craftsman - 9-43365- 11/16 x 7/8 in. Wrench, Offset Ratchet Box-End https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GR27QNE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FS-NDbKB2E41K

If cheeseboros are the main concern, just get an open offset ratcheting 7/8” wrench . I did that a few years ago, and while it only makes it into the toolbox a few times a year, it is very helpful when I have a pipe day.

Yeah here's two links, though it's not clear to me if either of these would actually fit since mine's a Delta but not the Unisaw.

Going to keep going with the Crescent for now.

one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Delta-36-0101-Table-Arbor-Wrench/dp/B0038SYG0Q

and HD: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Delta-Table-Saw-Arbor-Wrench-36-0101/205112163

And so also (unless you simply jam up the blade in order to change it) there's the saw motor shaft which needs a different (flat) wrench. Not clear to me if those links above are for a wrench for the motor shaft or if they're actually for this 23mm reverse thread nut. The shaft ears seem to be exactly 13mm and for whatever reason I have plenty of the 13mm ParkTool flat wrenches laying around.

So im pretty sure that it is an 11mm nut.
The safest option is to buy this
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-28967-6-Piece-Box-Wrench/dp/B0001K9RVW/ref=dp_cp_ob_diy_title_1
It covers all mixer tap nuts and costs less than £5 delivered.
Then climb under the sink and tighten the nut. Im trying to add a picture at this point but i have no idea how.

Where'd you get that guy? I've been using a gearwrench service tool for awhile, but stripped out the ratchet mechanism recently.

You need a tank wrench or cylinder wrench.

https://www.amazon.ca/Forney-86147-Cylinder-Cylinders-16-Inch/dp/B0058XCWG4

A small thing not directly tied to the woodworking, but I use all the time is a ratchet box end wrench set.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2205-Ratchet-Wrench-5-Piece/dp/B000NPR22Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1415336973&sr=1-5&keywords=ratcheting+wrench+set

Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-16-Inch-2-Inch-Double-Ratcheting/dp/B0002NYDBC

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWrench-7-16-in-x-1-2-in-Double-Box-Ratcheting-Combination-Wrench-9202D/205595425

I’ve used wrenches on nuts bigger than that. Welded a lug on the side of the wrench and hooked up a 1.5 ton chain hoist to the wrench, then when the hoist maxes out you grab a 12lb sledgehammer and beat the wrench.

One of these:

Williams SFH-1820BWA Straight Pattern Box End Striking Wrench, 4-1/2-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DNUKEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kPTqDbSMFJ9QJ