Reddit mentions: The best breakers, load centers & fuses
We found 416 Reddit comments discussing the best breakers, load centers & fuses. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 245 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Littelfuse FHA200BP ATO Add-A-Circuit Kit
- Water carbon turns one fuse slot into two while providing protection for both circuits
- Use with atom fuses up to 10 amps
- Includes 3,5,7.5 and 10 amp fuses
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.3 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Weight | 0.04 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
2. Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord
- HIGH POWER WATT METER: Counts consumption by Kilowatt-hours, with high-power tolerance rated at Max.16A, compatible with 220v ac
- REFINED ACCURACY: Built-in high precision current sensor. Ensures you the best accuracy-Class 1.0 with 0.01W, 0.01V and 0.001A resolution
- BACK-LIGHT & MEMORY: With wide view angle, clear backlight large LCD Display and hold over circuit memory for cumulative kilowatt-hours
- PROFESSIONAL KILOWATT METER: Start detection 0.20W, you can virtually monitor standby or working power dissipation of all your electronics
- BUY WITH CONFIDENCE: 1-YEAR Warranty by Poniie; full ABS fire retardant material housing and comes with 14AWG heavy duty extension cord
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 4.7 Inches |
Length | 2.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 2.2 Inches |
3. FAST Shipping ADD CIRCUIT BLADE STYLE APS ATT LOW PROFILE MINI FUSETAP FUSE TAP + 5AMP FUSE
- - Use with MINI LOW PROFILE ATM fuses up to 20 AMP each slot!
- - Turns one fuse slot into two!
- - Plugs into occupied or vacant energized fuse block slot.
- - Provides one fuse holder to protect existing circuit, and a second fuse holder to protect new circuit.
- - 16-gauge red wire lead for new circuit is 5 inches long; includes insulated crimp-type coupler butt connector.
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
4. Leviton 47605-28W SMC Structured Media Enclosure with Cover, 28-Inch, White
- Size 28 inch: 29.32 inches (744.7 millimetre)H x 15.62 inches (396.7 millimetre) W x 3.68 inches (93.5 millimetre) D
- Multiple Knock-outs on top and bottom, including two 2” knock-outs on top, facilitate cable entry and routing
- Cut-out in base of enclosure for mounting single and double gang J-boxes and power modules
- Can be surface-mounted or recessed,Powder-coated white cover features a 3/4 Inch overlap to hide irregular drywall cuts
- Positive tabs on housing sidewalls prevent enclosure from falling through the studs during installation
Features:
Specs:
Color | AmazonUs/LEVV9 |
Height | 16.625 Inches |
Length | 30.25 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 28 in |
Weight | 6 Pounds |
Width | 4.625 Inches |
5. Energenie Power Meter
Specs:
Height | 2.67716 Inches |
Length | 5.9055 Inches |
Weight | 0.4519476371 Pounds |
Width | 6.88975 Inches |
6. MG Electronics Class II AC Power Supply with PTC Auto Resettable Fuse (24 VAC, 40VA)
- BOOSTED CLEANING STRENGTH: 30 percent stronger than SONAX Wheel Cleaner Full Effect, with faster action on thicker, caked on grime areas of wheels
- DESIGNED FOR EUROPEAN WHEELS: Extra strength formula for European cars with difficult to clean wheels due to the high heat and brake dust. Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus is ideal for all vehicles including Mercedes, Audi, BMW, Volvo and many others
- SAFE ON ALL FACTORY INSTALLED WHEELS: Acid-free, ph balanced formula won't damage wheels, Safe on various wheel finishes including: Chrome, Aluminum, Steel, Clear Coated, PVD, Painted, Plastic Wheel Covers, and Magnesium
- WATCH IT WORK: The color changing formula activates once it comes into contact with the ferrous metals (iron) found in brake dust or other dirt and grime. Wheel Cleaner Plus sprays on clear, then watch as the product dissolves the brake dust turning deep red or purple
- Wheel Cleaner Plus needs to be used on cool and dry wheels. Product is ready to use, do not dilute with water. *Use caution when applying this product to anodized wheels and brake systems - test in an inconspicuous area prior to use
Features:
7. Uriveusa 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 10A, 20A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (2 Pack) (Micro2 Fuse)
- Plug Into An Existing Fuse Holder / HIGH QUALITY PRODUCT
- Protects Original Circuit and Provides A Lead For New Circuit
- 16-gauge red wire lead for new circuit is 5 inches long / includes insulated crimp-type coupler butt connector.
- Includes Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP(2pcs) / 10A (2pcs), 20A (2pcs) Amp fuses
- [UPGRADED HIGH QUALITY FUSES] 10A (2pcs), 20A (2pcs) Amp Fuses!!
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 6.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Micro 2 Fuse |
Weight | 0.01875 Pounds |
Width | 0.5 Inches |
8. Lumision ADD Circuit Blade Style ATT Low Profile Mini FUSETAP Fuse TAP + Fuse Set 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20 AMPS
- Use with MINI LOW PROFILE ATM fuses up to 20 AMP each slot!
- SET Includes, Fuse TAP + 5 FUSES! 5A, 7.5A, 10A, 15A, 20A
- Plugs into occupied or vacant energized fuse block slot.
- Provides one fuse holder to protect existing circuit, and a second fuse holder to protect new circuit
- 16-gauge red wire lead for new circuit is 5 inches long; includes insulated crimp-type coupler butt connector.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Weight | 0.0220462262 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
9. Eaton BRSURGE Br Series Whole-Panel Surge Arrest Breaker
- Plugs into a single-phase type Br load center and occupies two 1" pole spaces provides whole panel surge protection
- Surge arrester
- Br cutler hammer
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Weight | 0.6 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
10. Digital Power Monitor Meter Usage Saving Energy Watt Amp Volt KWh Electricity Analyzer Monitoring Device Equipment System Wall Socket Outlet
- Large Lcd display
- Usa socket outlet
- Measure watt, volt, amp.
- Built in cost function
- Low power consumption.
Features:
Specs:
Size | Pest Repeller v.356 |
11. Car Vehicle Circuit Blade Style ATM ATT Low Profile Mini Fuse Holder Fuse Tap With 5AMP Fuse (Mini Size)
- Use with MINI LOW PROFILE ATM fuses up to 5 AMP each slot!
- High quality material, Turns one fuse slot into two!
- Plugs into occupied or vacant energized fuse block slot.
- Provides one fuse holder to protect existing circuit, and a second fuse holder to protect new circuit.
- 16-gauge red wire lead for new circuit is 5 inches long; includes insulated crimp-type coupler butt connector.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.362204722 Inches |
Length | 1.181102361 Inches |
Size | Mini |
Weight | 0.01543235834 Pounds |
Width | 0.393700787 Inches |
12. P3030B1125CU 125-Amp 30-Space 30-Circuit Main Breaker Load Center
Single phase 125 Amp main breaker load center with 30 spaces/30 circuitsFeatures Siemens patented insta-wire technology which allows for quick and easy installation because screws are already backed out, ready for wire insertion on ground and neutral barsCopper busAll devices are provided with 2 fac...
Specs:
Height | 5.75 Inches |
Length | 32.38 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 32.01 Pounds |
Width | 16 Inches |
13. Square D by Schneider Electric HOM250PSPD Homeline Plug-On Neutral Whole House
50, 000 amp/phase maximum surge currentLED status indicatorNo wiring required120/240 vac applications
Specs:
Height | 3.5 Inches |
Length | 7.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.48 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
14. Wall Mounted .25" x 2" x 10" Copper Ground Bar Kit- SCGB-1KT
- UL Listed for Grounding and Bonding in USA and Canada.
- 2 Heavy Stainless Steel Mounting Brackets, 4 Bolts, 4 Lock Washers.
- 2 UL Recognized Polyester Thermoset Standoff Insulators Rated to 2,500 Volts.
- Meets BICSI and J-STD-607-A Requirements for Network Systems Grounding Applications.
- .25" x 2" x 10" Copper Grounding Bus Bar with Sixteen 1/4" Holes
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.25 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Weight | 4 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
15. DB Link ANL150 150 Amp ANL Fuse
ANL Fuses150 AmpsGold Plated150 Amp
Specs:
Color | BLACK |
Height | 1.375 Inches |
Length | 6.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.0881849048 Pounds |
Width | 1.375 Inches |
16. Cooper Bussmann BP/SRU Fuse Box Cover Unit
Receptacle & Fuse HolderMounted On 2-1/8" Handy Box CoverDimensions: 6.75"L x 3.88"W x 2.25"HIncludes fuseholder, plus a plug-in receptacle, switch, pilot lightCovers fit standard outlet or switch boxes, making it easy to turn an ordinary outlet or switch box into a motor protective deviceUnits are ...
Specs:
Color | 0.9 |
Height | 0.9 Inches |
Length | 6.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Pack of 1 |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
17. Blue Sea Systems 187 Series, 285 Series & Klixon Circuit Breakers, 187 Series, Surface Mount, 200A DC
- 200A DC Surface Mount circuit breaker combines switching and circuit protection into a single device
- "Trip Free" design cannot be held "ON" during fault current condition
- Rated IP66 Waterproof
- Max voltage: 48V DC, Interrupt capacity: 5000A @12V, 3000A @ 24V, 1500A @ 42V
- Terminal Size: 5/16"-18
Features:
Specs:
Color | 187 Series, Surface Mount |
Height | 4.75 Inches |
Length | 7.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 200A DC |
Weight | 0.11 Pounds |
Width | 2.17 Inches |
18. OAONAN GFCI Replacement Plug Assembly 2-Prongs with Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Safety RCD Protection for Pool Pump,Power Pressure Washer,Air Conditioner,Hair Dryer and so on (15Amp 2-wires)
- ✅【Always Safe】GFCI features surge protection and lightning protection function withstanding 6 kilovolts. Performed 3000+ times factory tests, which is the testing times of ETL standard.
- ✅【Easy to Install】Ground fault circuit interrupter with surge protection. Just respectively connect 2 pcs of wires to joint screws marked BLK (live wire) and WHT (null wire). Then screw down and close the cover.
- ✅【Reliable Protection】Protect users, tools, and equipment from electric shock with this durable GFCI adapter. The safety plug is designed to protect people and home appliances from electric shock: when leakage of electricity takes place, the plug breaks the circuit automatically within 0.03 seconds.
- ✅【Durable】Solid material and rugged design construction, built to withstand heavy use. Do not need to waste much more money to get new devices after using this replacement plug.
- ✅【Wide Application】Perfect for indoor or outdoor use in a variety of electrical equipment, such as generators, cleaning machines, power tools (saws, drills, air compressors), lawn equipment, cutting machines, vacuum cleaners, pumps, heaters, household electrical appliances, chargers, etc.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 1.9 Inches |
Length | 3.9 Inches |
Weight | 0.31 Pounds |
Width | 2.7 Inches |
19. Efergy E2 Wireless Electricity Monitor
Track energy usage on your PCDetermine your carbon footprintMemory functionHourly, daily, weekly, monthly and average dataUp to 4 tariff settings
Specs:
Height | 2.3 Inches |
Length | 8.1 Inches |
Weight | 3 Pounds |
Width | 7.7 Inches |
20. Sperry Instruments CS550A Circuit Breaker Finder, Quickly Locate AC Circuits/Fuses, Visual LED, Plug Style Transmitter/Auto-Sensing Receiver, 80-140V, Yellow
- QUICKLY AND EASILY: identifies correct circuit breaker or fuse protecting a specific electrical circuit
- SAFE FOR USE NEAR: Sensitive electronic equipment and no need to interrupt power when using
- INCLUDES: A plug style transmitter and an auto sensing receiver
- AUDIBLE ALERT AND BRIGHT LED: Visual indication on both transmitter and receiver
- DESIGNED FOR: Operation at 120V AC, 50-60Hz - UL Listed
Features:
Specs:
Color | Yellow |
Height | 1.3 Inches |
Length | 6.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.5 Pounds |
Width | 3.4 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on breakers, load centers & fuses
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where breakers, load centers & fuses are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
> Night image quality
What does this mean? Completely pitch dark? Driving with headlights only? or like town/city lights?
> Basically, I want a system that is set and forget (which seems to rule out the Viofo products)
VIOFO products should be fine for the most part.
> and has sensors that are capable of capturing license plates both day and night (i.e. Sony STARVIS).
Day/Night/Shadow - has more to do with the combination of parts - Lens/Sensor/Processor/Firmware/ect.
> The midrange models do not have the 1080p/60fps that I am looking for
30 FPS is industry standard, not 60 FPS.
Also more FPS, like 60 FPS does not necessarily improve video quality. It might actually decrease video quality, as Bit Rate stays the same, but you have twice as many frames = worse video quality.
> With the higher end models, I get better image quality, but I also need to pay for the feature bloat that is included.
This is not necessarily the case. You should assess video quality of the dash cams individually.
> I don't have a hard budget, and I am willing to pay more for a better product, but if possible, I would like to be around $200-300 for everything (including the hardwire kit).
Dashcam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = Cost
Some dash cams can be really picky about Micro SD cards, make sure to email the manufacturer for recommended cards before purchase. - Some manufacturers do not reply by the way, point of sale merchant sometimes can be more helpful.
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Best value dash cams:
Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)
Best Value Dual Cams:
Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:
This year's Flagship Dual Cams:
Suggested Hardwire kits:
Things that make hardwiring easier:
Hardwire = Generally to the fuse box, always on fuse.
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For more information visit /r/dashcam's wiki page: https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/wiki/index
That's not buy it for life, that's super clean power, and insane luck. :D
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Panasonic makes some cool gear and all, but they're rather infamous for cascade failure because all the components decide to die at around the same time. Even though that may be 10-15 years down the road. When it goes down, it goes down in a BIG cloud of smoke. Techs just shake their heads, say better luck next time.
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Word to the wise, if you're shopping for old tank microwaves, look at this spare parts source first. http://www.amiparts.com/ If they have a TON of surplus parts for a microwave, and they're relatively cheap, that design was a fucking tank if its over 30 year old, like many Magic Chef, Amana, and similar microwaves are. Sharps are pretty good, if a bit stone axe in terms of design. Panasonic though, being more technical excellence, makes a SWEET all stainless switch mode power supply nuker. She's sexx on a stick in terms of design elegance. http://www.vk3hz.net/amps/Microwave_Oven_Inverter_HV_Power_Supply.pdf
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But when it DOES go down, unless its just door switches or something stupid, an appliance tech has no chance in hell of fixing it. This version, is the most modern, probably not BIL, but I think it'll make 12-15 years if you have clean power, or MOVs/GaAS quenchers installed on your breaker panel. Like these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-22-5-kA-2-Pole-Surgebreaker-Surge-Protective-Device-QO2175SB/100202111 https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-BRSURGE-Whole-Panel-Arrest-Breaker-x/dp/B00PM927KK
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A BIL Panasonic is this ugly buzzard, 220v, it will nuke/thaw that pot roast before you know whats happened. :D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DE01QCE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1 $1500 and worth three times as much. You can sit there and nuke stuff in it 3 shifts a day, 7 days a week, 365 a year, for DECADES. lol!
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For typical consumer goods, I would recommend, as a tech who worked on thousands of microwaves back in my larval enginerding days in college, a slightly higher end Sharp. They're kinda ho hum in terms of design engineering. I could sketch out the entire circuit diagram of one of these while absolutely hammered in less than 20 min on a napkin. https://www.amazon.com/Sharp-1200W-Countertop-Microwave-Stainless/dp/B01CAHP9YC/ Simple design, tough enough, easy to fix, easy to get parts, a complete moron appliance tech can handle these. They usually have MOVs and sacrificial traces on the controller PCB, so one of these can do 3-4 good lightning hits before they're truly toast. (or just need a new control panel PCB for $50-$75)
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The last one I actually bought, was this one. Because once I was done with it and got something serious, it was employee break room fodder, like that last 3. https://www.menards.com/main/appliances/microwaves/countertop-microwaves/appliances/microwaves/countertop-microwaves/criterion-reg-0-9-cu-ft-countertop-microwave/ccm09g1b/p-1520494273005-c-1500043654078.htm
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Super cheap, super simple, not a massive power hog so you can run it, the coffee pot, and the air compressor on the same circuit. Hopefully. :D Durable enough, probably make 5-6 years before the next big lighting hit fried it, and every surge suppressor in the place.
This is probably obvious...and code now requires it...but make sure all your power lines run to the light switches before the load (ie, have access to a neutral wire). Most of the smart switches/dimmers etc require a neutral wire to operate (ie, they must have power all the time, and they relay the loads).
Since you're framing, now would be the easiest time to do wall-mounted TV Power and "behind the wall" conduits, similar to what this product enables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHFQ
I agree with the other posters on the Cat6. I'd create a central hub location/utility closet and then run 2 lines of Cat6 to each room/wall likely to have a TV or computer. I can't speak on the Coax because I don't watch cable tv, but it's cheap enough...so why the hell not. Personally, I'd also run 2 lengths of speaker wire to each room as well (for stereo sound in your ceilings or walls). It's way cheaper to run a whole house music system from a central location via passive speakers than it is to say, buy $2,000-3,000+ in Sonos wireless speakers that could cover the same square footage. I think it's nice to have speakers out of sight and out of the way as well. Even if you don't install speakers, run the wire...it's cheap.
It's also nice to wire some outlets into areas that you think might work well for routers or wireless repeaters so that they can be mounted up high and possibly out of sight...without dangling wires. Even better, install a few of these in between the studs where your TV's, computers, routers, etc might go for super clean setups: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-28W-Structured-Media-Center/dp/B0002472KK. Make sure you wire outlets to the boxes so that all the power wires can stay inside the enclosure...
Personally, I think it would be worthwhile to start thinking, researching and planning exactly what features and gadgets you'd like your home to support NOW so that you can install exactly what you need without wasting materials or time on things you may not need...it also helps to work through certain issues, requirements and logistics while your home is most accessible sans insulation and sheetrock...
>An hour of planning can save you 10 hours of doing. - Dale Carnegie
****Do any of this at your own risk or hire a professional to do it for you.***
Here are the parts I ordered to put mine together. I'm posting this bc of PMs.
Mobius or [Cheaper Mobius but longer wait from China] (http://www.banggood.com/Mobius-Action-Camera-1080P-HD-Mini-Sports-Camera-Wide-Angle-Edition-p-917817.html) I wanted the Wide Angle Lens for a better shot
Capacitor You don't want the battery sitting in the sun. A capacitor can handle it. So you replace the battery completely with this capacitor
Windshield Mount My mobius came with a mounting bracket that fits on this mount. The mount itself is very small, but the 3M sticker is very strong.
Hardwire Kit When hard wiring this in to the car via fuse box, this knocks the voltage down from 12v to 5v, which is what the camera needs. I used some wire strippers to expose about 5" of the red and black cables. Then stripped about an inch off each cable to expose the actual wire. The red wire goes in to the add-a-circuit mentioned below, then you crimp it closed with pliers (wasn't super easy, I must be weak). You partially unscrew a metal bolt that is attached to the metal car frame as a ground ( I used the one on top of my fuse box).
USB to Mini-USB This connects from the hardwire kit to the camera or 90 degree elbow mentioned next, for a better angle. If you are setting up the auto record when external power is on, which is what you want to do for a dash cam, you need to cut a piece of electrical tape width-wise and cover the two middle pins inside the USB cable. This is because the two middle pins (2 and 3) are data pins. Leaving those exposed makes the camera think its connected to a computer and will only do data transferring. By covering them, it only get power from pins 1 and 4 and doesn't think it's connected to a computer and will actually record.
Right Angle Mini-USB to Mini-USB Adapted This just helped keep the USB cable from sticking out too much (better angle)
Add-a-circuit This is the ATO (bigger fuse), but I ended up using the ATM (Mini) because my car has both and the fuse I wanted to use ended up being a Mini. It'd be best to look through your fuse diagram and find something non-vital (meaning don't tap in to a fuse that controls ABS or airbags, etc) and switchable (meaning it only comes on when the car turns on. You don't want the camera running 24/7), figure out what type of fuse it is, and buy that size. I ended up getting my new add-a-circuit (Littlefuse) from Oreilly auto parts for $6.99 and it came with 3, 4, 7.5, and 10A fuses. Also take note of the amperage (Never use a higher amp fuse than your add-a-circuit supports because the wire gauge may not support it and melt/burn. When adding the circuit, I removed the original fuse from the fuse box, a 10A fuse and put it the first slot(my add-a-circuit supports up to 10A) and for the 2nd slot, I used a 3A fuse because the camera and radar don't draw much. You don't want to use a higher amp fuse than necessary. Also, in my car 2011 JettaSportwagen, the add-a-circuit points down or it doesn't work. Make sure it's plugged in the correct direction or it won't do anything
32GB MicroSD Card Works fine, just make sure to format it through the camera.
Unofficial but awesome Mobius Configuration Tool Use the tooltips(hover over each option) to figure out what each things does. I set mine to autorecord when external power or the button are pushed.
You can find a lot of info here: dashcamtalk.com
To summarize the connections are:
Choose a fuse from your car's fuse diagram (non-essential and switchable), pull it, place it in the correct slot of the add-a-circuit (don't go to higher amps than is supported), plug in a fuse from the add-a-circuit kit in to the other slot to protect your camera (I used a 3A), strip the hardwire kit's cables mentioned above, put the red cable (+) from the hard wire kit in the the red end of the add-a-circuit and crimp it closed, attach the black cable (-) to a screw attached to the metal car frame, tape the two middle pins (2 and 3) in the USB cable with electrical tape, plug the USB in to the female USB on the hardwire kit, run the USB cable from the fuse box around the edges of your cars trim, up by the rearview mirror, attach the right-angle mini-usb adapter, choose where you want to mount the camera (make sure to check using the USB plugged in and camera mounted to the mount, in case it bumps the rearview mirror) (I held it on the windshield about where I thought I wanted it (to behind and to the right of the rearview mirror and took some test footage, watched it on a computer, decided it looked ok, pulled the sticker cover and attached it), clean your windshield with glass cleaner, attach the mount.
What every one has said about profitability is correct - but personally I've only ever mined bitcoins for a bit of fun. Its a good learning exercise - and if your interested in Bitcoin its a good way to learn more about it.
Bottom line is with your setup, its never going to be profitable - so I wouldn't worry too much about the maths - it will only depress you!
To answer your Q's though -
I have had the 9500ix for 4+ years now and it's been working pretty well. It's saved me from at least 4-5 tickets. As /u/13489194 stated below though, there are newer models out there that work better and are worth a few extra bucks. What I've noticed in the past few years is a very annoying increase in false positives with all the new cars that have side radar blind spot detection.
I mounted mine up on the top of the windshield a few inches below the headliner and to the right of the rearview mirror. It doesn't obstruct my view, and only prevents the passenger sunshade from fully opening a bit.
What you want to do is get a hardwire cable, a tap-a-fuse, and a trim tool and just gently pull on the trim and use the plastic trim tool (aka bone tool) to push the wire in behind the trim, down the A-pillar, and then into the fuse box. Not sure about the S6, but on my A5, it made it easier getting it down the A pillar to remove the "Airbag" plastic cover piece that covers up a Torx screw, and slightly unscrew the cover over the pillar so you can more easily fish it in.
Hardwire that bad boy into a fuse that is only on when the car's ignition is on, such as the Homelink Garage door opening or something. I dunno about the S6, but on my A5 there are fuse panels on both the passenger and driver's side. I put mine on the driver's side so that I can mount the little mute button assembly w/ the included velcro right below the headlight switch assembly. I can easily and quickly mute it as well as see the flashing light while driving.
Some stuff I'd recommend:
Escort Max 360 Detector
Hardwire adapter unit (no need for the bluetooth one as the Max has bluetooth built into it now)
Tape a fuse
Trim tools to fish the wire in
Other common tools you'll need would be a screwdriver, Wire Crimper/Stripper, and a socket to punch down the ground connection in the fuse panel.
Also, you'll want to be running the Waze application when driving as it will notify you of police locations reported by users. That's saved me a lot, especially when they aren't using radar or are using laser.
I know the solar charge controllers support it, but I wouldn't run the load through the charge controller. I would run the battery load directly to your positive and negative bus bars (through a master on/off switch and a fuse). Personally I don't think that the features that it provides is worth the extra dependency of having the load go through an unrelated sensitive electronics piece. Don't take my opinion on this as gospel. Make your own choice.
Your charge controller should be as close as possible to the batteries. Hopefully in the same box/cabinet, and close enough that you shouldn't need a fuse between them.
Are you going to be able to charge off the alternator or off shore power?
Consider a battery monitor separate from the charge controller. That way you can track all power going into/out of the battery, regardless of source.
Like TimelessNY said, you likely don't need the fuse to the panels. I have a MC4 fuse on my roof, to break the circuit if one of the wires cuts through and shorts out on the chassis. But you shouldn't need a fuse to prevent overloading the wires with load.
Personally I went with Victron for the MPPT and battery monitor. the bluetooth integration is super awesome convenient. Don't feel like if you are getting renogy panels you need renogy controllers too.
I don't think that your 100A fuse will be able to handle a 3000W surge power to the inverter. Unless you get a long delay breaker like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW . Also, put the fuse between your battery and the inverter as close to the battery as possible. On the battery side of the switch. ideally in the battery box.
For AC distribution, it depends on which inverter you have. Does it have a hardwire capability? Mine does, so I set up 3 busses, one for live, one for neutral and one for ground. I hardwired my outlets (and my TV) into these buses.
Which isolator do you have? Depending on what you have, wiring strategies could differ.
I bought a house in March and had the intention of going all in on HA, but so far it hasn't exactly panned out. budgeting for a few good products as i go.
BUT, Here is what i started with so far. I've settled with silo'ed stuff so far. This is what i've done, others will probably have stronger recommendations though.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z0V2NQ8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XOZG0Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZEQH2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0145OQTPG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Yes, that's 5 separate apps on my own Note 4
Next on the list is a zwave hub and garage door controller.
How I did the wiring on mine:
Install the angel eyes themselves per instructions. Run the wiring so everything leads to the relay being mounted in the bin at the right rear of the engine bay. Early models have the DSC/ABS module there, later models have just an empty bin.
Use the following image of the relay as a guide to where you lead the wires. The Pinout will be the most useful part.
http://i.imgur.com/Yrm9vxU.jpg
30 - Angel eye positive wire
87A - To footwell light
87 - To positive battery terminal
85 - Trigger wire
86 - Ground
Most instructions have you running the trigger wire to the DME and here's where I differ. In the bin where you mount the relay you'll see a grommet with a rubber plug on the firewall side. Carefully cut a little "+" into that and feed the trigger wire and the one that goes to the footwell light through there. (See link at the bottom for a picture showing it)
Inside the car you're now going to work in/under/behind the glove compartment. With a flashlight look for where those wires you poked through the grommet came in and pull them through. Tap the footwell wire into the positive lead to a footwell light. The other one will share a connection with a circuit in the fuse panel. You want to use a slot that is on only when the ignition is in the "on" position, and is off when it's in "accessory" or "off". You can use a multimeter or a test light to confirm this. There should be several options. Now you need an "add-a-circuit" adapter like the link below. Use that to connect to the trigger lead. Be sure to use the fuse with the same rating as the one the angel eye wiring harness came with.
http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427662052&sr=8-1&keywords=car+add+on+fuse
The link below is to a great step-by-step that I modified, so use it for the pictures and most individual steps, just on its Step 4, run the trigger to the fuse panel instead of the ECU accessory wire. These instructions also don't include step-by-step for running the other wire to the footwell light for the fade-on when you unlock and fade-off when you lock your car. It does show the grommet you'll be slicing to get the wires to the cabin though.
http://www.fastm.com/m3/angeleyes_orionv2.html
Does your energy consumption increase account for all of that larger bill or did the cost of electricity and/or its delivery go up too?
There could be other factors as well. I'm not saying tanks don't have a cost to run but something simple like increased heating or cooling, longer showers or more laundry, degrading seals on windows or doors, less efficient fridge, other electronics - they could also play a part in the household using more energy.
If you want to confirm the true cost of your tanks you could measure them with an electricity meter like this.
>I need a 'my grandpa was an electrician and his janky house never caught on fire' fix
OK:
ALCI cord from an unwanted/broken/thrift-store hair dryer, with the hair-dryer cut from the cord and replaced with a NEMA 5-15R extension cord female end, as an adapter for the conditioner.
The air conditioner may already have an overcurrent protective device as its plug, but this does not fill the same role as the Appliance Leakage Current Interrupter. An ALCI is essentially the same thing as a GFCI
Don't exceed the current rating of the cord, or of the house circuit. I find it is useful to map what few circuits there are, and even label them visibly, to help people remember "Oh, I can't plug in the hair dryer to outlets with a green dot when the big-screen TV is on". In such a house it is often easy in daylight to unscrew all but one fuse and then walk around with a lamp, putting a (1) sticker on each outlet that works on circuit 1, etc.
Most importantly, if it is still on fuses, make sure they have a good supply of the 15A variety and disappear the 30A spares.
I'm not an electrician but an EE, so an electrician can comment on the physical side of things- but from the spec side:
6000 W at 120V is 50 amps. You want to stay below 80% threshold so two 30A breakers would be 48 amps. It's a little over spec, and it wouldn't pass code here in WA but you'd "probably" be fine. However, if you're using 30 amp breakers you'll need 10 gauge wire, which is normally not run in 120V (it's usually 220). Typically you'd run 12/2 or 12/3 romex on 20 amp breakers. If you're running that much line, it's probably cheaper/easier to run a higher gauge (like 6 AWG) and put a subpanel in the room you can split out in 20 amp breakers. You'd have to just ask them price wise to spec it out both ways and see.
As for a "meter" you can definitely have an electrician install on (especially if you get a subpanel), but you're probably more looking for something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5
That said (and a big "don't do any of this if you're not comfortable") it's really easy to run wire. The actual wiring at the panel/subpanel and the outlets can be a little trickier if you're not familiar, but running the wire itself is just "grunt" work. Make sure you secure it every 4ish feet, within 6 inches of the outlet, and put nail plates if it's within 1.25" of the outside edge of wood.
Edit: Assuming you have access to a crawlspace/can open walls. Running wire through closed walls/spaces fucking sucks and I don't wish it on anyone.
Thank you so much for your reply! This is exactly the type of response I was looking for! The size was a worry to me, but I felt it was a bit over exaggerated since it was often compared to the A118C which just has a sleeker look on the window. I think you confirmed that for me. As far as the reviews I was referring to: There were several on amazon that said they received a free device in order to review it, and they all had 5 stars which made me suspicious of an inflated review. Also some of the reviews would mention the driver assistance prompts like they were great, even though I have received the overwhelming opinion that it sucks (but I can just turn it off). This just made me suspicious as well.
I think I am leaning more towards the Yi dash cam, since it seems to offer more features and be a little better quality image. Although a bit more obvious, I think you proved it is still quite small. I think I will just risk it on the battery issue and call it a lesson learned if it screws me over. It rarely exceeds 100F where I live.
Anything else you think I should know before purchasing the Yi? I will probably purchase with the link in the original post text if that matters.
Also, since you seem quite knowledgeable about it, I also had a question about hard wiring to my fuse box (since I only have one cigarette lighter.) If you don't know the answer to this, it is fine I just figured I would try. I plan on buying this and this to hard wire it. Would this be acceptable and all I would need? Also is there another way to wire it without going through the fuse box, because then I won't be able to put the cover back on the fuse box (small issue but still) that also does not involve the cigarette lighter. Again, if this is not your specialty, it is fine.
Again, thank you so much for your detailed reply. It really helped me make my decision!
I don't know what the grommet looks like through the firewall, but if there's room, you may try using a piece of safety wire or similar and pushing it through next to the wire loom, then make a loop on the end and pull your wire back through. That's what I've done in the past for similar applications.
For the fuse and ground, I know that many people have used Add-A-Circuit kits for this sort of thing. They sell them on Amazon or at any auto parts store. That's probably your best bet. I much prefer not to have to cut and splice factory wiring whenever possible.
I couldn't answer all your questions, but I hope that's at least a start. You may want to head over to MSF and see what others have done. Here's a thread for a similar install that I found after a quick search. Looks like OP used the hole for the hood release cable through the firewall and tapped into the BPV line for the pressure reading.
I haven't gotten any rear cams yet, but I've got this cam up front in both cars (buy it directly from Spy Tec, it's also on Amazon but you might get a counterfeit), I'd recommend a capacitor cam in hot climates (a battery will deteriorate in the heat, the capacitor gives it just enough power to save the video when shutting down). I've got it mounted to the rear view mirror so it's less visible and won't fall off, and I've got it hardwired into my fuse box (tuck the wire up under the headliner along the top of the windshield, run it down the pillar, and use an add-a-fuse like this to connect it to a switched (only on when the car is on) fuse like a cigarette lighter).
I don't know what other people think, but obviously you're not an electronics guru (neither am I!). I get pretty careful when it comes to things I'm plugging into the mains. If you were just measuring power consumption of a single chip, it would be different. So I'd be tempted to buy a plug in power meter (something like this ) and then figure out where it puts it's output into whatever drives its LCD display. Then read that into the arduino.
However, in the future, something like this may be the ticket:
http://www.cirrus.com/en/products/cs5463.html
Also check out this if you want to try and make something yourself.
OMG! How flippin' old is your house? I haven't seen one of those in forty years.
Congratulations. You are the proud owner of a Bussman receptacle and fuse holder. Man, that is seriously old school. Like 1930's old.
Believe it or not, you can still buy one today:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Bussmann-BP-SRU-Receptacle-Holder/dp/B00004WA3I
The reason it's not working is that your microwave is drawing more power than the fuse could handle. Chances are that the wiring leading to that outlet is undersized, at least by today's standards. I urge you; no, I STRONGLY urge you not to pull out the outlet and replace it with a new one. I am worried that if I am correct, your microwave could overheat the wiring in that circuit. Trust me on this........overheating wires in an old house will never result in a good outcome.
If I am correct about what caused the outlet to shut down, you should pull a new circuit into the kitchen for your microwave. It is the safe way to solve your problem.
Here is the list of all the stuff i got:
I think thats pretty much it, i will edit anything else if remember it.
This all could be done in one day and you dont need a garage to do it.
Good luck!
Hey, I was wondering if it would be possible to use an adapter that turns one fuse into two rather than splicing the cable?
If not, do you think something like this would work?
Also, is this what you mean by testing light?
If any of these parts aren't correct, could you send me amazon links for the correct parts because I'm trying to use up my gift cards.
I really appreciate your help and I'll try to order the right parts as soon as I get the O.K. from you.
A quick overview of the install of my ThinkWare F750 and Hardwired kit in the Crosstrek.
http://imgur.com/a/Eo2bm
Camera (bought at BestBuy price matched Amazon):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VA5S9PW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_aztlxbR4ZTV0S
Hardwire Kit (Bought at BestBuy):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NC062E8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_aAtlxbWWAME40
I used a Fuse Vampire Tap so that I had flexible options for power. In addition I did not wire to a constant constant 12v system since I don't want to use the parking feature. If you want to use this, but two fuse taps. Mine came from Blain's, you can get them on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0MWPXU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lJtlxb74S99ZS
Use this video to learn how to remove the A Pillar:
https://youtube.com/watch?v=qt-hhesUlSI
If you get one, also get the TAP adapter, and the Hardwire kit. They're pretty cheap.
Using this, I ran the hardwire kit up behind the rear view mirror, behind the headliner, down the plastic on the A pillar, and back behind the kickpanel and into the fuse box with the TAP adapter. I can't remember which fuse I used without looking but it's wired into one where the camera automatically comes on whenever the accessory is active or the truck is running. When I turn off the truck, the camera turns off, automatically. I don't have to do anything except clear off the saved videos once every 6 months or so.
Why do you need a 200A service? If you need more spaces for circuits, just get a panel rated according to the wire that is coming in from the service, but with more spaces than the one you have now. Unless you are adding something that takes a lot of juice, you can almost certainly keep the service size you have now and increase the number of circuits that are on it. That will save you a bunch of money. And it is possible to do without permits, though I really wouldn't encourage you to try.
Here's a 30 Circuit 125A Panel (there are probably others. This was the first one I could find):
http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-P3030B1125CU-Circuit-Indoor-Breaker/dp/B0088KONIO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_4
You need to double check the ampacity of the service wires before this is a good solution. Your existing panel has a split bus and a total of 20 circuits. The siemens panel above would give you another 10 circuits.
So why do you need the 200A service?
I've got the old version of that camera and it's very good. Importantly for me, it's small enough to fit behind my rear view mirror and has a really nice small mounting bracket with tape rather than a huge suction cup that will fall off every other week.
My power outlet is inconveniently placed, so I used add a circuit to hard wire it into my fuse box.
I went with Siemens because they support 2 pole afci when I did my FPE panel replacement. Buy the panel online (best price) and get the breakers at home depot or lowes with a 10% off movers coupons. If doing a replacement more spaces is usually better.
Make sure the panel is sized correctly as well. The quick and dirty panel sizing guide is a 2" pipe supports 200 amps; 1 1/2" is 150 amps; ect... make sure you have a big enough pipe for the panel. Same goes for the wire for the mains; make sure the AWG is correct.
The module plugs into the antenna jack on the PCM. The plug types are different so that's where the adapters come in. There is a stick on button to turn it on and off and control calls and audio track. You tune the radio to a specific station and hold the button to turn on the module and go into BT mode. Hold the button to turn it off if you want to listen to the radio.
Here is a good DIY guide. Pretty easy, even for a dunce like me. If you don't want to splice the power to your PCM harness, you can get a fuse doubler to plug into the fuse box in the driver's side footwell. For the mic, I just wedged it in the corner of the dome light frame piece and ran the cable along the headliner and around the passenger side, behind the glove box, and into the rear of the center console. You can tuck the wire into the passenger door rubber molding with a plastic card so it's hidden and tight.
/r/porsche thread
Ya, it's fairly easy. Use a company like Sonicelectronix.com, who have the best prices and often include free accessories for the install like wiring harnesses dash kits and antenna adapters.
The two things you will need to be aware of is that you will need the "keys" to get the radio out. They don't tend to come with the gear but you can usually take your car to your local shop and they will have keys and remove it for a few bucks. The next thing, to get an accessory wire, you must run a fusetap over to the fuse box on the driver side and tap into something that turns on and off with the car, like wipers.
That guy is just trying to upsell you. Switches are designed exactly for that scenario, three switches are not too many. I have six and I have NEVER had an issue.
However, I would say that it is infinitely easier and cheaper to run lines before the drywall goes up. Run lines and ports to places you MAY think you want a port. In your case, I would put one on each end of each bedroom, two in the living room, and two in the lower level, then put the central wiring in your master closet. That's where it typically goes so you can hide the wiring in something like this and it will looks nice and tidy.
That's 10 ports, which may seem like a lot, but nothing is forcing you to connect them all at once. An 8 Port Switch like this one is extremely cheap and will keep everything nice and tidy.
Your metal ducts will probably already be at the same potential voltage as ground if they are connected directly to the air handler, unless you have a noise isolation collar in between. It wouldn't hurt to bond anything though. You could take bonding jumper from the panel enclousure then jump between everthing you wanted to bond or install a wall mounted ground bus bar like this. If you went ground bus bar route, take a #4 ground wire from the ground bar inside the panel to the ground bus bar.
Here's some related code:
250.104(B) Other Metal Piping. If installed in, or attached to, a building or structure, a metal piping system(s), including gas piping, that is likely to become energized shall be bonded to the service equipment enclosure; the grounded conductor at the service; the grounding electrode conductor, if of sufficient size; or to one or more grounding electrodes used. The bonding conductor(s) or jumper(s) shall be sized in accordance with 250.122, using the rating of the circuit that is likely to energize the piping system(s). The equipment grounding conductor for the circuit that is likely to energize the piping shall be permitted to serve as the bonding means. The points of attachment of the bonding jumper(s) shall be accessible.
Informational Note No. 1: Bonding all piping and metal air ducts within the premises will provide additional safety.
I have a whole house surge protector, cleans up the AC power in the home pretty good... my (4) Vizio TVs are doing just fine... no other surge protection...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0723BS79W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
<$100 for whole house surge protecting... this unit fits my panel... I suggest you research into what may be able to fit in your panel... this fits Square D HomeLine Panels... these are pretty common where I live in central California...
good luck...
I attempted this.. In my experience its not possible. Instead i fuse-tapped from the internal fuse box an accessory fuse, so when the car turns on the lights are on.
During the day they unfortunately are on.. but you will not notice them unless they are super bright.
Cant remember what fuse i used... Think it was the 11th position or 9th position fuse (just test both) here
This is the [tap] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K17A2E6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) and [lights] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pc-Red-LED-Under-Dash-Kit-Interior-Glow-Lights/271823827548?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&amp;_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649) i used, i also grabbed 20 gauge wire from home depot. (You will need to know how to wire them together)
Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.
I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.
Shopping List:
I'm not Grim-Sleeper but I can clarify a couple points and add my experience.
The backhaul is the connection from that AP to the rest of the network. You're already running wires for them so no worries there.
I have my entire 1900sf covered by one combo router/AP in a central location. Made of sticks rather than bricks, but as long as your interior walls aren't plaster and lath you'll probably get good results. If it can't be central, aim for kitty-corner on the two of them. I'll second Grim's recommendation of UniFi hardware.
I helped set a friend up with an in-wall network cabinet, it worked great for our application. This one by Leviton, in fact. Packed in an 8-port switch, router, Power-over-Ethernet injector (for a UniFi AP!), and cable modem with lots of room to spare. Ventilation may be a concern with this, but he hasn't complained of equipment failure yet!
DIY on this is no trouble at all. Your keystones will be color-coded, so it's a matter of practice to get the shortest length of unwound wiring you can. Since most devices nowadays can't take advantage of full CAT6a capabilities, you won't be missing out if some of your work is a bit shoddy. Pro tip: Don't bother making patch cables yourself (from the wall to the device). That's the most unreliable part of the process, and Monoprice has done wonders for their cost.
Start with knowing the wattage of your largest loads. If you want a hot plate, that's fine, but know that they require approx. 1500 watts, so your inverter will need to be at least that big. Go higher if you're unsure.
Once you know the wattage of your inverter, you can figure out wire sizes based on what amp draw it will have at 12 VDC input. Typical inverters have an efficiency of 90%, so (from our example) 1650 watts divided by 12 volts is 137.5 amps. Based on this calculator at 10 feet of cable length, I would not go smaller than 2 AWG. You should put a 150 amp fuse inline between the battery and the inverter, and use the correct fuse holder and crimp-on lugs, or solder the lugs if you can.
Use power strips with internal circuit breakers and extension cords for distribution on the AC side - it's fast, easy, and acceptable. Just make sure your combined wattages never go over the rating of your inverter.
Charging the second battery is a bit tricky with solenoids and switches unless you get a battery isolator to put between the alternator and your second battery. It's just a giant diode with lugs.
RVs do this kind of thing all the time, you should be able to google for better wiring diagrams than you have. (No offense, but it was difficult to follow.)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C3DQRY0
These are the products I used to wire in my dash cam. So far I've had no issues with either. Also, I did a write up on installing one in my Elantra, but it should be about the same general steps for wiring up one in the Aveo as well:
http://imgur.com/a/MSLpz
Hope it helps!
Also, I installed the fuse tap where the fuse for the 12V accessory (cigarette lighter) goes, that way the camera doesn't stay on when my car is off.
SquareD makes a whole home surge arrestor that can either fit into two slots (Homeline or QO panels only), or attach to the exterior of the Panel (Universal). Check with local ordinances before you take this on yourself. If you are comfortable working in a service panel and can safely disconnect the main while working, it should be a simple 30 minute or less install.
&#x200B;
36x20x62 and qb 240 v2 with red
Getting one per driver, this is to help control the dim
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8M7N9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GRGlDb10RKKAZ
This one the ups will plug into for the total grow draw. From the reviews it works best for monthly totals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OSGlDbH2XY0Y1
Here is the humidity control. Has setting for humidity and dehumidify. I used it for mushroom tents and works well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076LMFRHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yUGlDbJWPZYC1
I wouldn't recommend tieing into anything after the fuse since it could overload that circuit and blow it (I doubt it will happen, but it could).
You can buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ and make it a new circuit with it's own fuse.
Hope that helps.
There's my problem.
http://www.amazon.com/HitCar-Vehicle-Circuit-Profile-Holder/dp/B00U61OPZ4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Based upon that specific one.... you have the SMALL version. I ordered the MINI and its too shallow. Thanks for your help, I will be ordering up the small version now.
Which fuse did you tap into? It seems like the consensus is 86 but it makes me weary since its the airbag module. Are there any others that are on only with the ignition?
Thanks again for your help!
Something like this might be useful in determining how much power you need. Perhaps buy a mini-fridge that will use less electricity and transfer your food there in case of an outage.
Another idea is to freeze water bottles and water filled soda bottles to act as ice to help keep food cold in case of an outage.
Depending on the cam there will either be two or three wires that need connecting. One will be a ground and can be connected to any bolt around the fuse box that connects to the metal of the car body.
If only two wires then you would connect the other to either a fuse that is "always on" such as the stop lights (simply marked STOP) on my fuse box cover, or a line that is only on when the key is in and turned on, like the radio fuse. Which way you connect it will depend on your installation/camera and if you want to have a parking mode, etc
If there are three wires then you need to connect the remaining two wires to both of the fuses outlined above. If you know what kind of fuses your car uses (probably can google this) you can buy your add-a-fuses from amazon or if you don't just go to a car parts place, they can give you the correct ones.
An add-a-fuse is like this -> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
you pull the existing fuse out of your fuse box, stick it into the add-a-fuse, so that there are now two in the add-a-fuse, and you install it where you took the fuse from. then just crimp the wire in the crimp connector (you'd want pliers for this) and you're good!
Hook the Bazooka harness's red cable to your car radio harness's orange cable. Hook the Bazooka harness's blue/white cable into your fuse box with an "add-a-circuit" available at your local Walmart or Autozone. Use some speaker wire or something to get it over there and ziptie it neatly along they way. Add it to a circuit that turns on and off with the key, maybe the cigarette lighter circuit. Hook the black ground ring to a bare metal (not painted) bolt on your car's chassis. Hook the speakers up as stated. When you're all done, make sure it works and that it turns off when your car is off. Enjoy!
I have the GoControl - it works just fine and is very unobtrusive. I use an external 24V power supply with it as I have a 40-year old furnace with a 2-wire control and no 'C' connection. We can say "OK Google set the thermostat to 70" or "OK Google make it warmer", and use the SmartThings app to adjust the heat when we're away from home. (Note the comment I added above about smart outlets.)
Damn reddit is amazing. Thanks @az_adventurer!
Found this one on amazon as well. One of the reviews has pictures with it located outside.
https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Mounted-Copper-Ground-SCGB-1KT/dp/B00GJUZUMI
Seems like the hardwiring kit in /u/nonvideas post is out of stock. You can use these two things instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0MWPXU?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EZJBELQ?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=od_aui_detailpages00
This is what I used. There's a panel under the fuel lid/hood release latches that uncovers a small fuse panel. First, unscrew the big bolt you see (you may have to pry the bigger plastic cover slightly) using a 13mm socket. Tighten the bolt so that the black ground cable from the cigarette lighter thing is secure. Then, insert the red power cable into the red wire connector from the fuse tap and crimp the wire. Now you're ready to tap your fuse box. Take out the fuse you want to tap, insert it into the fuse tap, then insert the fusetap fuse into that same socket. Now you're tapped into the battery power and only the ignition will power the cigarette lighter.
check your motherboard manual, usually the b slots (2 and 4) are preferred for dual kits, although this shouldn't be the issue.
best way to check powerdraw is to get a meter like this one:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-429-856UK-Power-Meter/dp/B003ELLGDC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524946894&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=watt+meter
Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable
You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.
The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.
It's pretty easy to add a usb charging port with this and this.
This is the things that I wrote for another guy, and since I already have it typed I'm just pasting it here. Since it's such a small battery my idea (155Ah) is to charge it with my alternator.
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I would use that accessory to plug stuff that use 12v like cellphone charger,fans etc. It's best to run things directly from the 12v DC instead of converting it to AC and then again converting it to DC.
Those cables are over-kill, but that's what I would buy because they are not that expensive and it doesn't hurt.
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This is how I would connect everything. It totals around $475 US.
I understand not everyone is mechanically inclined, but I hate to see people paying for a dashcam install. They're one of the simplest installs you can do on a car! Even if you've never wired anything in your life, it's pretty simple! If you really hate the cigarette adapter and want to hide your wires, all you need is about $8 on amazon, or at autozone, oreillys, anywhere for an "adapt a fuse".
You just need to connect the positive from the dashcam to this baby and pop it in the fuse panel (almost always located in the car). Connect the negative to just about anything metal in the car and it's grounded.
Like others have said, be sure you bought a dashcam with a capacitor and not a battery. The heat out here will ruin the battery, fast. The capacitors have a little easier of a time.
Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-Upgraded/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=car+fuse+adapter&amp;qid=1564186478&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQzgxMlkwMU9DNjhKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzA1NDIxQk9FVTQ1TkszUkI0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMjMyMjgzOEQ1RjdSNTdRSVhKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
Ok that is understandable.
By its listing you cannot use the one mentioned as it was not indented for the flexible cord you have (used for 16/3, 14/3, or 12/3 SJTW cable).
Tower used to sell this 2 prong version which seems to be discontinued but you might be able to find if you call a local electrical store. Otherwise, you should be better off using this or this made for two wire equipment.
im using this to power the ecobee
the way this works is there are two posts each sending 12v. One leg (yellow) is connected to the rC and the other leg (blue) is connected to the C for a total of 24v.
I want to know if i can just splice the two 12v legs into one and get 24v for the C.
the rC getting 12v seems to be tricking the furnace into thinking it needs to pump heat.
I have a 2 zone, 2 taco system that ecobee tells me to use a fast-stat along with the transformer to "add a common" but I dont need to add a common...i have a free wire already, so im trying to utilize it (if possible)
The knivio bluetooth is a good call, ive had mine for almost a year now which works perfectly and have done exactly what you want to do. What i used was an Add a circuit and then wired a new cig socket to the add a circuit i bought form autozone. Now it will auto connect and turn on only when the key is switched to acc position when connected to the right fuse, typically rap, ign, with that specific size fuse. Also i just hid the extra socket under the dash. Also if you do end up getting a noticeable noise/interference which i highly doubt use this ground loop isolator.
A power inverter is what you'll need. As for wiring it in, perhaps something like this will help. You could just find a circuit that comes on with the key (radio circuit usually) to plug that into. However, that wire does seem a little too thin to run an inverter..
Someone on this forum recommended [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075CTPZW6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) for adding a C wire. It works great! Follow this [diagram] (https://www.doityourself.com/forum/attachments/thermostatic-controls/48111d1426649484-wireless-thermostat-replace-wired-honeywell-th8320r-external-transformer-n-boiler.jpg)
I read about the Sense (whole house monitoring) and some others, but ultimately I think the single-device is a better start.
I am kind of leaning towards this: https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=kill-a-watt&qid=1564001055&s=hi&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1
There are too many external factors to consider. Insulation value of your home probably makes the most difference and we really can't measure that.
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You can easily found out for yourself with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=power+meter&qid=1556896508&s=gateway&sr=8-1
using something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Shipping-CIRCUIT-BLADE-PROFILE-FUSETAP/dp/B00K17A2E6
Allows you to tap into an existing fuse slot fairly easily, its pretty much unplug a fuse, plug it and two fuses in.. then you can wire to the existing wire and a metal to the frame point under the dash.
I have done this with my car since my cigarette lighters are always on.
I used it to wire one of these in: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-Female/dp/B00EZJBELQ
And I just plugged my cam into that.
Well, I have a splitter on that now and my cam and gps are on it.. but same thing..
With bills that high, get one of these power monitors off Amazon and have it installed. It could save you hundreds. Your one-month usage is almost as many KWh as I use annually in a 2000 sq ft home.
Thank you!
Is this the correct hardware kit?
https://www.amazon.com/Viofo-3-Wire-Hardwire-A129-Camera/dp/B07KZGM9LS/ref=sr_1_2?crid=QK7O5MVGQXYV&amp;keywords=viofo+3+wire+acc+hardwire+kit&amp;qid=1569346851&amp;sprefix=Viofo+3-wire+hardwire+kit%2Caps%2C227&amp;sr=8-2
Is this the correct tap-a-fuse kit?
https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-Upgraded/dp/B01LFXA5YQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tap-a-fuse+wire&amp;qid=1569346818&amp;sr=8-1
Back in the day when I did that kind of stuff as part of my job, I would do runtime X2 and add a little more. Not exact, but a quick “rough number.”
This is a nice tool to see what your gear is doing in real time....
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HZpJDb26YPW33
I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075CTPZW6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_04LQAb367PJ8W
That one's 40VA, but 1000mA is more than enough power.
Worked with my Ring 2 before I switched to Nest.
Get something like this for the subpanel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PM927KK/
They make a larger one for the main load center as well. For $500 I expect you can do your main service box and all subs
Huh? A GFCI is literally designed to protect against short circuits. GFCIs automatically disconnect a circuit when they detect an imbalance in current between the hot and neutral: a short.
Surge suppression (as you mentioned in #2) is a separate issue from grounding, that u/HouseMonster did not ask about in their post. They asked about short protection. That part is a problem that anyone with electronic equipment (myself included) faces, regardless of the age of the home. That's typically addressed by protecting sensitive devices by purchasing power strips that include integral surge suppressors. Whole-house surge protection is something that's generally only addressed when replacing the main breaker box by installing one of these. Whether or not that's a feasible addition right now depends on the age of OP's breaker box, whether or not they're comfortable opening it up/paying a sparky to do it, whether or not there are enough in slots in the breaker box to accommodate it, etc. And even then, those devices only address the 20% of power surges that originate in the grid, not the other 80% that originate in the home. Those surges need to be arrested at the point of use. A combination approach is best practice, but expensive. The most feasible solution is UPS (uninterruptable power supply) units for the modem/router, home theater, and desktop computer (if one is present). They're about $60 each and available at any Walmart or office supply store.
If your network is pretty small and you want to take flush to the next level, put your wall-mount patch panel, switch, router, and modem all inside a structured wiring cabinet
Use a multimeter, and figure out which of your fuses are only activated when the key is on.
Then use a fuse tapper("add-a-circuit kit") in place of it.
Done. Nice an easy, no splicing or anything.
Check out this site to find an always-on circuit. Likely door locks, cabin lights, etc. Or you could splice one of the fuses under the steering column. Avoid anything airbag related (yellow stickers, yellow wires, yellow tape) and the illumination circuits (dash lights, backlit buttons, they are backwards from other circuits and you'll short it like I did). I'd probably recommend getting a fuse jumper and tapping into an always-on circuit. Be careful about draining the battery, of course. I'd suggest a mobile jump starter if you're planning on using power with the car off.
So something like this? And then just strip the end of the wire for the dash cam and connect it to that?
Like this?:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U61OPZ4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3CA5H83RV6W5M
Easy way:
Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1347317089&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=mini+fuse+add+a+circuit
Plug it into a circuit that comes on with ACC, being sure not to overload the fuses.
Run wires through the firewall. Attach red to red, black to Battery Neg.
Right way:
Use ACC/RUN signal to trigger fused relay. Output of relay runs radio.
Here are two tools that help:
Tells you if an outlit or wire is hot before you touch it:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-Volt-Alert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O
Allows you to find the circuit for an unlabeled outlet:
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-CS550A-Circuit-Breaker-Finder/dp/B000ET403A
I don't know of any plug in devices, but you could install a small fuse holder out there and protect only the receptacles the caretaker has access to. Order a 7 or 8 amp fuse and it'd give you a fighting chance.
Something like this?
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.vlxDbWXF53FM
Have you ever plugged in a watt meter to see what your PC consumes over say a week? Something like this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Energenie-429-856UK-Power-Meter/dp/B003ELLGDC.
You can get a watt meter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Electricity-Analyzer-Monitoring-Equipment/dp/B07M8JKLG5/ and use it along with your electric bill to figure out how much of the charge is for the server.
Terminals: (need 2, get at least 10, you'll mangle at least a couple) https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex/0330122001/WM2989CT-ND/2405588
Add-a-circuit: https://www.amazon.com/Uriveusa-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-Upgraded/dp/B01LFXA5YQ
Also need some 16g wire (or so, 16 is the smallest that properly fits the blue crimp connection on the add-a-fuse, though I'd recommend using heat-shrinkable butt splices instead, just for the water proofing).
While this is commendable, how much power are you using? I would think that would be the big issue if you did this for a long time. If you're not sure how to measure, you can get something like the KiloWatt to determine. Once I did this sort of thing and figured that out, I decided to build a Ryzen box.
https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1540739544&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=kilowatt+meters&amp;psc=1
So just replacing it you would need to verify that the conduit is providing the ground. It is done that way sometimes.
If it is the ground this should suffice. https://www.amazon.com/Bussman-BP-SRU-Fuse-Cover/dp/B00004WA3I/
Do note that I have no clue as to how code effects all of this. I am not an electrician I just play at one. I will let the real ones around here answer how code plays out here.
Found a similar one on Amazon US: Leviton 47605-28W Series 280M Structured Media Center with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002472KK
I just installed this exact thing in my car (well, sort of, I got the version with a full size female USB port instead of the mini male port so I wouldn't be constrained to that one cable)
Anyway! That is not an inline fuse. That is the 12v to 5v step down, and you definitely need a fuse on top of that.
Here's everything I bought (note that you will need the fuse tap that fits your car)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I3P6QQG
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K17A2E6
And with that and a 6 inch mini USB cable I had lying around, my G1WC is hard wired to my car!
One more note: all these EDO adapters are miswired. They put garbage on the data lines of USB, so your camera thinks it's connected to a PC. A trimmed piece of tape covering the center pins on the USB cable (there are four pins, 1 2 3 4, you need to cover 2 3) fixes that problem elegantly.
The power connector needs to run to a switched power source. In Trailblazers (and most other late model GMs), there is no switched power wire for the stereo. This gives you 2 options. Option 1 is to run the power connector wire to a physical switch that you would have to flip to turn the amp on and off. This is less than ideal, because if you forget to turn it off, you can end up draining your battery. Option 2 is to get an add-a-fuse, and put it in to a slot (such as cigarette lighter) in the fuse box (under the rear seat) that will give you switched power. You might have to try a few different slots until one works.
A really old version of this. Mine is red and I think Commerical Electric made it back then. It was sub $20 I know that. It does the job...
Killawatt
For example
Poniie PN2000 Plug-in Kilowatt Electricity Usage Monitor Electrical Power Consumption Watt Meter Tester w/ Extension Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_FNxCDbWDCVFY8
Most people will find a switched wire at the fuse panel using a fuse tap.
I did the same, took me a while to get it working properly though.
I don't know, I don't use the cable clips. I used one of these to wire it into my car and ran the cable behind the siding roof lining.
Just a standard home AC power meter.
I specifically use an Energenie
https://www.amazon.com/Poniie-PN2000-Electricity-Electrical-Consumption/dp/B0777H8MS8/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=killawatt+meter&amp;qid=1572154034&amp;sr=8-2-spons&amp;psc=1&amp;spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRTY5VEkwUVdUSEdKJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjM2MTU4M1ZDNExYTjhBSEVVSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzA0NDczNUxIVkI1UjZRTDU0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369754411&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=add+a+circuit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777H8MS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't like mine being taken up either. I used a female cig lighter adapter and a fuse tap. So, this means I didn't have to cut up the BT adapter and have a non-destructive way to get 12v to the BT adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006TIRZA/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ
Kettles use a lot of electricity, but for a very short amount of time (unless you fill the kettle right up every time like an insane person).
At my day rate electricity of about £0.21 per kWh, it would cost about £0.63 if I left the kettle boiling constantly for an hour. It generally takes about 2 minutes to boil the kettle with enough water for two cups (minimum fill), so the cost of the kettle works out at between £0.01 and £0.02 per cup depending on whether I make one for just myself or use the extra water to make someone else a brew.
It's misleading to only look at how much power something consumes without paying attention to how long it's actually on for.
If you want more insight into how much electricity a specific appliance actually uses, these are alright. Set the time, set your electricity rate (it supports differential tarrifs [economy 7, 10, etc] too), then plug it in for a couple of hours/days/whatever and it'll tell you how much power it's used, how much it's cost so far.
It also shows some other stuff that most people probably won't find useful like how much current the appliance is drawing, voltage, frequency, and power factor.
The input wires I think. Not sure about which breaker, I don't really know how the device handles multiple breakers. :x
220v or so I think. I'm looking to set this up: http://www.amazon.com/Efergy-E2-Wireless-Electricity-Monitor/dp/B003XOZG0Y/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_i
Not in my jeep but I installed a sat radio box in my moms new honda and had to top into a constant and switched source. I bought two Add-A-Circuits from AutoZone. Just get the right size for your fuses.
Use a multimeter to find an open fuse slot in the fuse box that is a switched source. (Just have someone in passenger seat turned key on/off for you while you check them) Tap into it with the add-a-circuit and most have their own fuse holder so you can prevent any problems.
Get one of these and run a new wire. No need to splice into existing OEM wire harnesses that cost a fortune to replace.
Yes. You'll need to find a 12 volt power source that turns off with the key is removed from the ignition. This may or may not be simple. You'll need a multi-meter, and you'll need to probe power sources under the dash until you find one that cuts off when the key is out. Usually, the best place to start is at the inside fuse block. You can get a fuse tap that fits into the existing fuse slot and gives you a power lead and the existing fuse. [Like this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BGELQ/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687442&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B000CQDRTI&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0HP8993WYB5TQ9Q8D907)
You may need to look at your fuse block to see if you need one with a lower profile.
Nah I'm totally okay with running cable through the firewall. I've set up the sound system in my car so I've already done that for the power cable, I've also tapped into the clock for the remote wire for the amp.
So essentially, find out where the fuse is for dome lights, (insert object always on here), plug in one of these bad boys: http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ
and use the wire for power?
OAONAN GFCI Replacement Plug Assembly 2-Prongs with Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Safety RCD Protection for Pool Pump,Power Pressure Washer,Air Conditioner,Hair Dryer and so on (15Amp 2-wires) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PRH8H3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R3FYCbGRQ5Y8V
There was a post not too long ago by someone who killed his lithiums because even though his inverter was on a switch, his raspberry pi or something was not and that drained it during a cloudy week. So don't forget undervoltage protection on that DC fuse block!
Edit: Also, I would take some of those savings and get better-quality fire-prevention devices. I don't trust safety devices with 26% one-star reviews.
Better options:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&amp;keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker+dc&amp;qid=1573679773&amp;sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Tocas-Circuit-Switchable-Waterproof-Flush-Mount/dp/B06Y4172LP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker+dc&amp;qid=1573679773&amp;sr=8-3