Reddit mentions: The best building materials

We found 1,243 Reddit comments discussing the best building materials. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 638 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on building materials

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where building materials are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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u/__Why · 5 pointsr/declutter

Strap in, this got kind of long! I hope it's useful to someone.

I too have the "need a lot of bins and boxes and whatnot" situation because of my and my partner's hobbies. I sew and crochet and embroider and work with leather, and he works with electronics and 3d printers and so on. We share a small (10' x 10') room for our workspace and all of our most commonly accessed supplies.

Being someone who gets fixated on ideas frequently, I suggest that you open up your search to other options other than interlocking boxes. The reason I say this is that I am surrounded by bins and have been working with various sized bins to access things for a long time and I am tired of them. The problem is similar to what many other posters have mentioned: Getting items out of the boxes (even if they are small) is an Ordeal, especially if you have multiple boxes out, or if the box is very full and hard to put back together.

In general, a rule of thumb is to think about how you'll put your item away rather than how you'll access it. When we want access to something, it doesn't seem like a big deal to undo bins, bags, boxes, slide heavy things around, etc. because we get a reward at the end (yay, it's the thing! shiny!). After that, the idea of undoing all that stuff seems like a pain in the arse, and we just don't want to do it? (and what if we might need another thing from that bin? So, consider how you'll put it away, rather than how you'll get it out when designing a storage solution.

So, I am now moving away from the lidded box approach and encouraging my partner to do the same. Having watched Adam Savage's video describing first order retrievability, I am moving in that direction (although not yet to his ninjery level). Here's the video:

I suggest the following types of storage for smaller objects. Bins still work OK for larger objects but someday I'd like to move away from that too.

  • Akro-Mills Parts organization drawers. They come in many different sizes and types. They are durable, versatile, come with their own drawer dividers, they are wall mountable or usable on a desktop surface. We use these for all of the objects we reach for frequently for different applications (memory cards, bulldog clips, popsicle sticks, magnets, command hooks).

  • Stanley Organizer boxes. These boxes are extremely useful when you have a lot of tiny objects of different sizes to sort (like nuts, bolts and hardware or amigurumi eyes). There are bins in each storage thing that are fully re-arrangeable and removable - you can get several of these and customize each one to your needs and then pull out just the little bins you're interested in to work on. These have their place, but are best used as 'project' or 'many of one type' oriented storage

  • This video on using plastic bins as drawers. I did this for my two 4' workbenches and I love it. This allows me to quickly swap out project specific bins if I need to, and I now have the ease of access of drawers with the containerized pleasure of bins. I use these drawers every day for things like webbing and elastic storage, crochet hook storage, sewing machine accessories, sewing patterns, etc. I have currently taken to reserving one bin per workbench as a trash can and omg is that useful to have an in-table trash can - I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my benchtop so I can just swipe bits and pieces directly into the trash.

  • Pegboard / slat wall. I personally like the metal Wall Control brand because I have a love affair with magnets. I use this for thread storage (I can thread my machine directly from the wall, without moving spools around!), bobbin storage, clips, pins, tape that gets used daily (painters, duct, electrical, etc), instant access tools are mounted on magnetic bars attached to the board. I also stuck magnets on the back of a bunch of stuff (empty soup cans, plastic bins from the stanley boxes, thread locker, sewing machine oil, etc) and now I can just kind of throw those items at the board and they stick. Extremely efficient and functional. The various hooks and things are also highly useful. Comes in many different sizes and shapes (and colors!) with accessory kits optimized for different situations.

  • A tool chest (even if you don't have "normal tools"). We use this for hand tools - it is really nice to have screw drivers, wrenches, utility knives and tape measures at our finger tips. Ours holds a ton of stuff, fits on our metro wire shelving perfectly, and has held up like a champ in the 3 years we have it. Also it's metal, so I can stick things to it with magnets. We have this one:
u/The0ldMan · 2 pointsr/IWantToLearn

You could buy a veneer sample pack, which includes several species of wood samples that are labled, and use them like flash cards to study the different characteristics. Or you could compare them to the furniture in your house.

A cheaper way to learn different commonly used wood species would be to walk into Home Depot or Lowe's or even better, a lumber specific store and just study the wood they have there. Typical stuff used around the eastern United States is oak, cherry, maple, walnut, pine, hickory, poplar, cedar, etc. They each have very distinct features like grain pattern, grain spacing, color, density, hardness, and even odor. Cedar for example is very soft, very lightweight, and has a strong odor, which you've smelled if you ever walked into a pet shop that uses cedar chips for rodent cages. While oak is very hard, and heavy and smells more like bad body odor.

Keep in mind that there are lots of different species like I mentioned above, but then there are subspecies like southern yellow pine, white pine, western red cedar, white cedar, black walnut, birdseye maple, silver maple, etc. And even within them examples of each can vary widely, because it its organic nature. But there will always be tell tale signs to narrow it down pretty close.

I'd definitely check out your local big box store and ask them what aisle the finish lumber is in, or just ask where the oak is. They usually sort everything by species and will have plenty of oak, poplar, maple and pine on hand. Lumber specialty stores will have a wider selection of stuff like walnut, and cherry. You can handle in, smell it, poke it with your thumbnail to see how hard it is, and even buy some to use as a reference. Prices vary widely from species to species. Pine is cheap and might be sold by the board while oak is pricier and might be sold by the food. You can cut small pieces of stuff in the scrap bins and they will only charge you for the length you take.

As for using different woods for different things, it's mostly style when it comes to furniture. Some people like the look of cherry, so they buy cherry furniture. There are certain woods with specific uses. For example, southern yellow pine is used for decks because it can be pressure treated with chemicals that make it not rot, or get eaten by wood eating insects. It's also very stringy and not likely to crack. It can bend very far before breaking so it's perfect for the strength needed in decks that can hold large crowds of people during parties. Cedar is also used outside a lot because it has natural tannins which keep it insect and rot free without any paint or chemical treatments. If you ever see wood siding on a house that looks like shingles, it's most likely cedar. Some roofs are even made with cedar shingles because it holds up to the elements very well.

Sorry for the wall of text. I just found this subreddit and I like sharing knowledge on topics I know more about.

u/robert_cortese · 3 pointsr/SanJose

>That's a gorgeous fence

My wife would digress, she says the curve isn't centered. 2 flats on one side, 3 on the other.

>I am an idiot

C'mon you run trivia nights, I've seen you post here plenty. There are true idiots on this sub, and you're not one of them (IMHO)

>don't know if I could actually do that.

Don't know until you try. I didn't know until I tried, but I had some fencebuilding experience when my family still had ranches (mostly the old men yelling at me to carry wood, sand, nail, no cutting)

This is how I did it. Maybe I can lend a hand, I dunno. You'd have to entertain my wife and kids and maybe feed us or something. Maybe you could do the same for us sometime.

Tools: (mostly cheap harbor freight)

  • Miter box saw. This let's you cut fairly precise angles.
  • Jig Saw. For finishing the curve on top.
  • Drill. For putting things together
  • Hammer Drill. For drilling in cement anchors (Mine is freestanding, not attached to the fence or house)
  • String, for making that swooshy curve.

    I started off by measuring. Once I had my measurements in, I took a long hard look at my neighbors fence (we have that picture) and copied the framing. I scaled it for my entryway.

    Once I had the basic design down, I drilled in my post cement anchors. I used 4 of these Simpson Strong Tie Fence Anchors. Even after a year, the fence is still as strong as the day I made it.

    After I had my posts up, I put the J screw hinge onto the posts and connected some cross members so the posts would shore up against each other.

    I took what would become my gate frame, and put the other half of the j screw hinge in. Then I did one final measure now that I knew how much space the hinges took up.

    Pulled the 4x4's off the hinge post, and built out the rest of my frame. I made sure to leave plenty of room at the bottom for the gate to swing freely. After the frames were complete, I re-hung them on the J hooks.

    Once the frames were up, I began skinning them. I laid a 4x4 at the bottom to give myself spacing (Didn't want the skin scraping) and put up fenceboard. Throughout this entire process, I used deck screws with the star bit. These bits don't slip, and the screws are coated to sort of self lubricate themselves through the wood.

    After all the skin was up, I tied a string to where I thought was center at the bottom of the fence. I stretched the string to the top of the fence and tied a crayon to it (just didn't have a pencil) The string acts like a giant compass, and let me make a nice even arc.

    Finally, I took a hand held jig saw and sawed along the line at the top making that nice curve.

    Only took me a day to knock it out.

u/Kairus00 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I would get the hub earlier on since you want to monitor your washer/dryer, and if you have the hub you can buy devices that work with your hub so you can control everything from one spot.

The easiest solution for monitoring your washer/dryer are going to be z-wave devices. For the dryer, if it's electric, a sensor to detect vibration, or if it's gas, you can maybe get away with an outlet that detects current. For the washing machine, usually an outlet that detects current can work for you. It can be a bit tricky to get going though.

Skip the wemo plug and go with a z-wave plug. Any reason for the Lutron dimmers in specific?

For the bathroom fan, I use a z-wave smart switch. I don't have it tied to a humidity sensor, but I have it set (controlled by my hub) to turn off after 25 minutes, that way I don't have to worry about turning it off when I'm in a rush to leave for work. If I wanted to have it triggered by humidity levels or motion, or whatever all I need to do is add another z-wave device and I can make it happen.

The RainMachine seems cool, but pricey for an irrigation controller, no? I use the Orbit B-Hyve and it works great. I rarely ever interface with it honestly. I pull out my phone and run the zones occasionally to check that I don't have any broken heads, otherwise it just runs. It can be completely controlled from your phone, and can be controlled directly from the device as well. The other day I adjusted my schedule a little bit and increased the runtime on a few zones. Is your irrigation controller inside? If not, with the RainMachine you will also need to buy an enclosure to keep it weatherproof, whereas the B-Hyve is built into a weatherproof enclosure.

For garage door automation, there is a great z-wave option on the market. GD00Z-4 that will integrate into whatever hub you get.

Now as far as hubs go, I wouldn't go Wink personally. SmartThings is a bit annoying but it is the most used system on the market and there are some perks to that. You'll see recommendations for running Home Assistant, and that's a solution that requires some tinkering. HomeSeer is great, and if I started over completely I probably would have gone this route, but I have a bunch of zigbee devices, and the recommended way for using Zigbee with HomeSeer is to use another hub (Lightify Hub), and I don't really care for that solution. I'm using Hubitat now, it's an early product and I've had my frustrations with it but I like to tinker so it works for me.

u/greyGoop8 · 6 pointsr/DIY

Tell your pops I used this stuff on my tub and it came out nice.

  • Gross
  • After

    Couple tips: The directions say to use like 400 grit sandpaper, screw that, I tried that for almost 20 minutes and it wasn't doing a thing. I went down to like 150 grit. Real rough stuff. And it gouged the surface right up. I would periodically wipe the dust off with a damp cloth, then dry the surface and start sanding again. I think I sanded for just over an hour, taking a lot of short breaks to catch my breath since it was a pretty good workout. Once most of the gloss was gone and it was pretty well gouged up I applied the epoxy. People in the reviews complained about the vapors from the epoxy. So I setup two fans, a box fan blowing out the window and another fan blowing right at my head (the toilet's at the perfect height for this ;-)) And I felt completely fine breathing normally. It's been about a year and it's holding up great. Though we have babied it, just cleaning it with soap and water and a soft sponge, but it stays clean fairly easily and still looks great. Highly recommended easy DIY job for an old tub.
u/tenor013 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I don't remember what exactly got me interested in inlays/marquetry but I rented a book on marquetry from the library and picked up the few tools I needed to get started and went on from there.

If you're interested in marquetry I recommend "The Fine Art of Marquetry: Creating Images in Wood Using Sawn Veneers" by Craig Vandall. He doesn't focus on the history/theory behind marquetry too much but gives a straight forward approach on where to begin and what tools you need to start.

For materials, I buy my veneer sheets from Amazon .The product linked gives you the most variety in wood species, great quality control, and value per sheet of veneer. For dyed veneer I go to B&B Rare Woods (their website is a little dated). Their dyed veneer's and regular veneer sheets are top notch. They also let you order book matched veneer sheets.

Let me know if you have any other questions or if you have trouble finding information on a certain subject. Cheers!


u/Akilos01 · 1 pointr/lasercutting

Having made them before I would say wood veneers work quite well. They likely need to be one sided and you will have to play with your settings because it's fairly easy to burn through. That said I've had the best results with these two:

Cedar Wood Veneer and Veneer Variety Pack

The cedar veneers are super consistent in quality. Thin enough to feel like a biz card but thick enough that they are sturdy like card stock paper. Prints well and gives a reasonable differentiation between shades of light and brown so that you can get some complex imagery going if you feel like it. The variety pack comes with a whole selection of woods of varying color and quality. Some are full of burls which don't lend themselves well to lasering over, and others have such a grain pattern that distracts to much from small imagery as used in a biz card. On the other hand some of them have beautiful sheen as well as very striking color.

Here's an example of some done with two veneers from the variety pack.

u/JrClocker · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 will have to look around for this one):

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):

ZigBee Motion Sensors:

ZigBee Door Sensors:

ZigBee Leak Sensors:

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):

Z-Wave Thermostat:

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:

Z-Wave Deadbolt:

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Echo Dot will work just fine too):

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

  • Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  • The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains

    I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.

    For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over's the newest standard, and has much better range.

    In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).

    Two great application for the Leak Sensors:

  • Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  • Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)

    Great applications for door open/close sensors:

  • Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  • Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  • Notify me when my gun safe is opened

    Great Application for Motion Sensors

  • Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  • Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark

    The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).
u/ender4171 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

First off, i seriously doubt it is caulk (in the traditional sense). I t is most likely a contruction adheasive. From the looks of it, probably Power-Grab. This is a polyurethane adheasive that is pretty much permeneat. You could try a caulk remover, but it may not do much. The one I linked is water based so it's probably a bit milder than some of the other (more effective) removers like McKanica. Realistically, those adhesive can be dissolved though. The manufacturers basically recommend using a thin wire to 'cut' the adhesive free. I would try the plastic razor and heat. You MIGHT be able to soften it some with mineral oil which will also give the benefit of lubricating your razor. Good luck!!!

u/DinkaAnimalLover · 4 pointsr/Rabbits

Try that rug for him that I linked. It's less than $20 - easy to clean, looks good. Even just right outside his cage... He will love it! :)


For stairs try these clear strips or these or something like this.


Oh an you are very very welcome!

u/alexlfm · 1 pointr/winkhub

OK so my favorite accessory is, by far, the garage door opener and sensor system. It closes my door automatically at night if I forget and leave it open, and sends me notifications when it's left open during the day. Plus as I have the lights controlled, it turns on my main garage lights when I come home at night.

Secondly, I know it's not a switch but I also love the Schlage connect lock. This was the first "smart" device I ever got, well before I had Wink. It's amazing as with remote start cars, and this, I now never have to touch my keys, and it works great for letting people in with temporary codes when you're on vacation. Plus when I go for a run I don't have to carry my keys. It integrates fantastically with Wink letting you set codes, lock door, change settings, etc. I actually only bought the Wink hub because of it since I wanted an easier way to program/control it (well, that and the fact that when Quirky went under Meijer was selling the hub for $5 and the controlled power strips for $10. No lie.)

As for switches, I tend to prefer the Leviton ones as they are the cleanest looking, don't have obnoxious lights (like the GE ones) and are reasonably priced. I only have one Caseta switch, and while it works fine, I just don't know that I care for the style. (On a side note, the Caseta remotes can work for any Wink device if you set up shortcuts for the various buttons). The annoying thing with the GE switches is that you have to push up to turn it on and down to turn it off. While I know that sounds like a silly complaint since physical switches work that way, it's something you have to think about since it doesn't stay up or down, and instead is always in the middle. I have the same complaint with the separate buttons on the Caseta switches. This is another reason why I like the Leviton ones. Only one button which simply toggles the state.

Finally, all the Z-Wave switches work independently of the hub and will ALWAYS respond to your physical commands immediately, regardless of hub or no hub. They are always a physical switch first and remote second.

u/colinnwn · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Just as a point of comparison, I have a 2005 Craftsman garage door opener and just purchased this MyQ upgrade kit (this is not the generic one for any opener).

It works great, the MyQ app is very nice aside from having to sign back in after several days, and the integration with Wink has been flawless (compared to some of the other Wink features).

I can't remember the last time I've been as happy with a technology purchase. I didn't want to have to rig something together that required frequent maintenance, or have it not be integrated with the opener and require a sensor with a battery like the generic MyQ adapter, Wink Ascend, or some others.

It does seem Chamberlain is willing to partner with other companies to allow them to link into it such as Staples Connect is supposedly working on. Though if you want integration with a specific HA controller, obviously I wouldn't buy the kit until the integration exists. Most of these companies add features at a snail's pace.

u/ragingcomputer · 1 pointr/homeautomation

My comment was really targeted toward OpenHAB. If you're running Wink, I think you'd be better off getting one of these GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener. Amazon reviews are pretty solid and Home Depot was selling them for use with Wink for a while. I believe it comes with a tilt sensor, which is probably easier to use than boogering a regular door sensor on like I did. Probably a solid bet. I would have bought one of these if OpenHAB supported the z-wave barrier class.

As far as the MIMOLite... I can't tell you for sure as I run OpenHAB, but it looks like it should work according to these links: post in reddit /r/homeautomation and Amazon review

I'm using a Go Control / Nortek Controls / Linear WADWAZ-1 to sense my garage door. I snagged one of the WNK01-21KIT kits from Home Depot on sale.

I've also got a Honeywell Ademco 958 overhead door contact on my other door that should work as the door contact listed in fortrezz's diagram linked in my previous comment, if you wanted to sort of wire it.

For Wink, by the time you buy both the mimolite and the door contact (wired or z-wave) you might as well just buy the go controls device and get the benefit of secured z-wave barrier class.

u/pinkstapler · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I used two kits of this on my dark pink tub about a year ago and it doesn't show any wear yet.

I realize it may begin to wear eventually - but we will probably sell the house later this year. If I knew I was going to be in a house for more than ten years, I'd go for professional resurfacing - but for my purposes the DIY worked great. Just be sure to ventilate and follow the directions to a T. Read the amazon reviews and understand the process before you jump in.

Good luck!

u/FirstChairStrumpet · 4 pointsr/airbnb_hosts

Check out myQ may be compatible with your existing opener. I bought this device and it was super easy to install. If others install the app they should be able to open it. I imagine as owner you could manage access like one would a digital lock and remove access after their stay.

At the moment I currently don’t allow guests access to the garage but I use this for peace of mind when I’m away. I can check status and see if it’s open/shut and for how long. I can open and close it remotely...heck I use it when I’m up on the 3rd floor and about to go to bed and don’t feel like going all the way downstairs to make sure it’s shut. Easily one of my favorite home automation devices!

u/sonnaps · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Ok cool, so there really isn't anything out there that I was missing. Something like this should work, too, right?

MHCOZY WiFi Wireless Smart Switch Relay Module for Smart Home 5V 5V/12V

I would have to use the eWeLink app on my phone and IFTTT to make things talk to one another. I wish there was a Smart Life (Tuya) dry contact sensor or switch to use. I already have a bunch of their smart plugs and would have rather used the same Smart Life app that I am used to.

u/p04s22l72 · 2 pointsr/HomeKit

To add more detail to what u/mwwalk pointed out, you can install homebridge ( on a raspberry pi and use the homebridge-chamberlain plugin ( This is a lower cost alternative to purchasing the MyQ Home Bridge ($97 on Amazon) but requires a level of comfort in using an rpi and linux command line.

Raspberry pi homebridge helps to add non-HomeKit accessories into HomeKit. At some point in the past, Chamberlain/LiftMaster did not have a HomeKit option.

My garage door opener setup is not exactly the same as yours... I have a non-WiFi Chamberlain but added a MyQ Smart Hub ( purchased on discount for $20 to add in WiFi capability.

I've linked in my Ring cameras, Plex, and other stuff as well, so this approach with rpi homebridge was greater value for the time, money, effort.


edit: fixed the link to the chamberlain plugin

u/klinquist · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

As far as light bulbs, there are lots of places to start. If you want to replace bulbs themselves, look at LIFX or Hue. They both offer either color or white bulbs and an API that lets you dim/adjust color/etc via your phone.

Alternatively you can replace your light switches with ZWave switches (about $40ea) that you can hook to a ZWave controller (ZWave is a wireless protocol that a lot of HA devices use. Zigbee is another).

As far as a ZWave controller, I still personally like SmartThings ... although there are other options. OpenHAB+Aeon ZWave USB stick is more of a 'roll your own' setup. Wink, Abode, and Vera are other options.

As for your garage, once you have SmartThings or another option listed above, this will do the rest of the work for you:

For #3, Sonos is the most expensive but best option.

For #5, You can go Nest, Ecobee, or a number of the great ZWave thermostats if you have a Zwave controller.

u/equis55 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

This is the one I bought on prime day for $25, pretty awesome so far, you can even set schedules and alerts. App Pretty user friendly and it was easy to set up.

u/jimbo333 · 2 pointsr/garages

Sorry for being so late, but if you have Z-Wave in your automation already, then Z-Wave garage door openers are under $100, like this one: Is the one I have, it has sensors that tell you if it is open or closed, and then you can use your phone (via z-wave controller) to close/open it. Works well for me. With my z-wave controller (Vera), I have it setup to notify me if I am not home and the door is opened, or left open.

There is also various WiFi options, which also allow you to control it, like this one: No personal experience with those, but if they support your opener, are probably a good option.

If DIY is more your thing, a Arduino and a simple switch on the track somewhere would work for notifying if it is open.

u/hunterstee · 2 pointsr/SmartThings

Hi Mike! There used to be a 3rd-party device handler for Chamberlain MyQ openers, but it seems that it has been discontinued:

Another option is to use the GoControl unit that connects to your existing garage door opener: It has native integration with ST as well as options for third party device handlers that extend the functionality. The price on Amazon is a bit high right now, but I've seen it around $65 in the past. If you're not in any hurry, use to track the Amazon price and notify you when it decreases or hits a target price you configure.

I can't help much with the camera portion of your question, but I'm interested to see what others have to say as well. This is something I'm still deciding on also.

u/Piratesfan02 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I got the chamberlain whisper drive with wifi. I love that I can check to see if it's open, closed or even alert me when it does either. It comes with a battery backup too. I love it. My parents got it and love it too!

It took me 3 hrs to install and it syncs with the Nest for the home/away.

Edit: Added more stuff

u/joelav · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I get my glue to 160. One thing that I find really helps is getting everything hot. After I press my glue soaked veneers for a day I re-prep them by doing the following:

1 - Spread glue on the toothed substrate

2 - put veneer face-down on glue soaked substrate

3 - Wet with water (spray bottle)

4 - Iron it until the veneer is uncomfortable to touch for longer than a few seconds

5 - Apply glue to veneer

6 - Peel it up, flip it, get it where I want it, and hammer it. Don't go crazy getting all the air pockets out. It's MUCH easier to touch them up after (like he does in video 2) than worry about breaking your glue bond by hammering partially set glue

Also if you want so low level of effort practice, order this. Good quality veneers, really cool species, and you don't need to cut them. They make interesting combinations for box bottoms and floating panel box tops if they come out nice too.

u/mattttko · 1 pointr/DIY_tech

Wow thank you so much, this was very helpful. :)


If i am understanding you correctly, this is the new diagram (

  1. Use the red and white power lines from the wall and connect them to this buck converter.
  2. Configure the buck converter to change the voltage from 16 volts to 5 volts.
  3. Connect wires from the buck converter to this bridge rectifier to convert the power from AC to DC.
  4. Connect the wires from the bridge rectifier to the two power ports on the WiFi Relay
  5. Solder the wires from the relay on the Wifi Relay to the two pins that activate the buzzer
  6. Voila! :D


    One question I had was can I use the existing red and black lines to power both the original unit and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay? Would i just cut off some of the plastic coatings of the black and red wires somewhere in the middle and wrap the other wires around the two?

    My thinking is that this would effectively make two "ends" for the wires that i can use to power the existing circuit board and the buck converter/bridge rectifier/wifi relay.
u/JoshHinderShit · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I appreciate the advice. I'll definitely make sure to do that and play around with positioning. I completely forgot about needing speaker stands. I have a pair of wooden TV trays like this-

And I can also afford to buy a pair of Yoga blocks like these to place underneath the speakers-

I can also get this stuff and place it at the bottom of both speakers-

I know it's not ideal, but with all of that do you think it will work just fine? Or is there a better solution with different materials you would recommend? Maybe placing something underneath the tray?

I saw this reviewer from NO Audiophile used a lot of miscellaneous materials to raise his speakers-

So maybe it's not so bad?

u/AviN456 · 6 pointsr/homeautomation

If you have a Chamberlain or Liftmaster (or compatible) garage door opener, you can install the LiftMaster MyQ Retrofit Package to add smart capabilities.

This enables you to see the state of, and control, the garage door via their website, mobile app.

It also works with certain 3rd party integrations, such as Wink and Nest, to control the door, alert on events, and initiate actions based on the door status. For example, you can have your Nest go into home/away mode, or have lights turn on/off, locks open/close, etc., based on the door opening or closing.

You can set up rules to notify you if the door is opened/closed and/or left open/closed for set periods of time. I have mine set to send an alert on the door opening and another alert if it's left open for 5 minutes.

You can also set (locally, on the control panel) the door to automatically close after 1, 5, or 10 minutes.

For safety reasons, you can't officially automate the opening or closing of the door, although there are some unofficial ways to use the API for this.

u/haven_lock · 3 pointsr/homedefense

So one thing to keep in mind is that the weak point of a door lock is actually the door jamb. When someone kicks in the the door, they usually don't break the door, they break the strike plate out of the door jamb. The deadbolt is then blasted out of the strike plate.

I am not a locksmith nor have I used this specific product. But after looking at it and the install video, I am not sure how this lock will prevent a break-in via kicking in the door. This lock is secured into the door jamb and therefore it is only as strong as the door jamb. It uses 3 inch screws into the jamb so that is better than normal, but if the jamb is made out of cheaper wood, the screws will probably blast out of the jamb if kicked in repeatedly.

If you wanted to go the cheapest route to increase your door security, reinforcing your door jamb is probably the way to go. Something like this

The advantage of Haven Mech is that it is secured into floor. So it uses the strength of the foundation to secure the door. It also has been designed from scratch to take dozens of kicks. What we found in our R&D is that a lock that doesn't have any give will fail quickly. Our original design was a steel bottom and steel top. It had no give, and it failed after about 10 kicks. Once we redesigned the lock out of hard plastic and the insides were woven nylon, the lock gives and bends a bit every time someone kicks it. That give allows for the door to take kick and kick without major damage.

u/NinjaCoder · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

There are special 2 part epoxy paints that are used for this.

We used this paint to refinish a green bathtub, and it was easy to apply, and looked great until it started to scratch, peel, etc.

It is super smelly and requires proper ventilation and a respirator type mask.

u/LouDiamond · 2 pointsr/AirBnB

so a coded garage door (one that we can easily multi-program), plus specific keys for the actual apartment door-door.

that's kind of what i was thinking, i just want sure how to best do the garage door as an entrance.

probably easiest to do a key-chain garage door opener + key, like this

u/Christopher3712 · 1 pointr/amazonecho

I use Nexx Garage door opener. You command would be, "Alexa, Ask Nexx Garage to open door one." Alexa would ask you for your 4-digit PIN, to which you respond and then the door opens. You can set a virtual proximity fence that allows the door to open upon your arrival. It will alert you if your phone is away from the home for longer than a certain period of time and the door's still open. At that point you can just tap the button to shut the door. I'm happy with it because I rarely use the voice-activated function. I was more concerned with being able to remotely close it and being able to see the status. The proximity open was just a bonus. It always feels cool to come home.

u/banzaiburrito · 2 pointsr/hometheater

Yup. I have a 3 shelf entertainment center that best buy doesn't sell anymore. Putting the center on the top of it was perfect for me. Since my shelves are glass I also used this to isolate the center from any vibrations it might send to the glass. I also used it between the bookshelves and the stands because the bookshelves just sit on top of the stands and the stand legs are hollow.

u/JustNilt · 1 pointr/DIY

Something like this will work: Rust-Oleum kit That's a link to Amazon just because it's easy to find on there. You can probably find a similar product almost anywhere that sells home improvement stuff. As with most any paint type thing, preparation is key. Get the tub as clean as possible and carefully follow the directions.

u/SanDiegoDude · 3 pointsr/alexa

I spent some time researching this, and ended up getting a z-wave garage door opener off Amazon (this one). It works well, communicates over Z-wave and reaches through several walls to my Z-Wave light switches to join the Z-Wave mesh my SmartThings hub communicates with - With that said, I found out rather quickly afterward that Amazon purposely prevents Alexa from working with any type of smart door/locking mechanism, which made me sadface. I could probably still get it to work through Smart Things custom scripting editor, but honestly I'm fine just doing it through the ST app.

u/therealsix · 1 pointr/DIY

Look at this stuff, it's cheaper on Amazon but they have it at Home Depot for a little more. Works nicely when done fully and should work just as nicely as a patch to keep the peeling down. Just make sure to take out the drain cover first since the flipper might not have done it correctly.

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u/bachewie · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Nexx Garage Door opener. Has support with setup up routine so I don't have to ask to talk to Nexx Garage. Also their customer support was top notch when I had a question about compatibility.

NEXX Garage NXG-100 Nxg Remote Compatible Door Openers-Control Using Smart Phone, Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant Enabled Devices, White

u/tri-crazy · 1 pointr/homeautomation

You could look into a RaspberryPi and the Pi version of the HomeSeer controller software. If you have a little time the software plus a Pi only costs a little more than a SmartThings. Otherwise I use SmartThings and I have really liked it so far.

As far as switches if you do not mind mixing brands this is what I do. Anywhere I have a dimmer, a 3+ way switch, or have the need for scenes I use HomeSeer. If I just have a regular switch I don't need to do anything fancy with I use GoControl switches as they are a bit cheaper if you look at the other sellers.

For the garage I use GoGoGate because I wanted to ability to give others access. I have seen others on this sub use these GoControl Garage Openers with contact sensors to verify open/closed.

I would also look into doing fan control

Depending on the size of your house and how many switches you are replacing this could get you pretty close to your $1k budget. You may need to add cameras later on. Also in your future endeavors I would look into EcoBee/Nest for temperature control.

u/selfreference · 2 pointsr/Frugal

My fiance recently did our toilet and tile with no experience. We did take a free tiling class at a local store. It was a nice hands-on class and they gave us 20% off of all of the equipment. Borrow equipment (float, trowel, mixer) from friends and family if you don't plan on tiling again in the future.

We bought a really nice Toto toilet from for less than $200. There was free shipping and no sales tax. My dad has purchased two toilets from them (both Toto) with no issues.

If you can't afford a new tub now and the issue is mostly cosmetic, Rustoleum makes a tub and tile paint that works pretty well. I purchased from Amazon here. It's a good way to put off the really large purchases (tile and the needed supplies can be expensive). To give you an idea of cost, we tiled the floor of a 30 sf room with high-quality tile and it was over $400 for the cement, mat (we used the mat instead of backer board), grout, tile, and supplies.

We put the tile in before placing the toilet. We didn't replace our tub, but there isn't any tile under it, it just goes up the edge and there's a line of caulk.

u/eagle101 · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Can someone please help me?

I have the following garage opener: Chamberlain WD1000WF 1-1/4 HPS Wi-Fi Garage Door Opener

If i want to add homekit to it, do I buy only this new device or something else as well?

Thank you

u/squirrelpotpie · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

From what I can tell reading up on the types that use 10-position switches and operate on 300mhz, you should be safe with pretty much any universal garage opener that:

  • Operates on 300MHz
  • Has a DIP switch with exactly 10 digits

    Should be easy to find one on Amazon, or anywhere. I like the key-ring size ones. Roommate got one of these (except the version that works for our door) and it works great. It arrived with a dead battery though, so he ended up having to replace that, but even if that happens to you too it's still way less than the $50 your landlord wants for it.

    From reading wikipedia about garage opener tech, the DIP switch types haven't really changed since the 90's. So there shouldn't be any surprises in the switch-containing types.

    Edit: And yes, that's what you do. Copy the switch positions and it should just work. If it doesn't, double check that the switch positions (left vs. right, and up vs. down) are the same on the new remote. Could be the first digit is on the right instead of left, or that down means 'on' instead of 'off'.
u/egoods · 6 pointsr/homeautomation

Thought I would share since this is a pretty recent development, and I was about an hour away from installing this at my vacation rental property... For those interested, The GoControl z-wave garage door opener will work with a Smart Things hub and is officially supported.

Pretty pissed that I won't finish the automation install at this house this weekend but really glad I didn't was a whole bunch of time installing this!

u/tanmaker · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

Funny, I just got an email from Liftmaster/Chamberlain in regards to a myQ update implementing a new feature, looks like it's called Family Share. It looks like you'll be able to add people so they can control the door through the app, and then you can remove them when they're done.

If you just have 1 garage door, this kit should get you going.

u/SolusOpes · 8 pointsr/preppers

Door Devil is a must.

A deadbolt into a wood frame makes the wood at the point extremely thin.

Next I like 3M window security film.

Here's a video of it in action.

You can get cheap security film off Amazon. But I personally tested what's sold from China, and the cheaper American made stuff. And I'm telling you, find a retailer, and spend the money on the 3M.

Battery operated cameras are also good. I like Arlo wireless cameras. No drilling or wires. And while yes, you have to use their cloud for storage, there's scripts you can either write yourself or download online, which will log in, download your videos local and delete them from the cloud every 24 hours, or 1 hour. Whatever you want.

If you set them to motion detection the batteries last around 6 months.

u/haworld · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Amazon had the garage door sensor but its now unavailable, they are the only seller currently, but we will have it available on Amazon Prime in a couple weeks. We have a few units coming in today so once we get the listing complete, it will be available there in our store.

We will have the other items as well, we ordered yesterday but it may be a week or two for them to get in, Linear is pretty slow shipping.

u/SkittlesX9 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

All good man. There is this also. GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black

Good luck either way

u/Ir0nRaven · 1 pointr/funny

I bought and installed this for my dad. Highly recommend - you can view status and control door from your phone. Easy all around. I'm sure there are similar front door locks to do similar.

meross Smart Wi-Fi Garage Door Opener Remote, APP Control, Compatible with Alexa, Google Assistant and IFTTT, No Hub Needed

u/kryptkeeper666 · 1 pointr/winemaking

Ahh. I see what ya did there. Lol

God bless amazon. Wall Control 30-WGL-200GVB Galvanized Steel Pegboard Tool Organizer

u/DesignFlaw06 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

If you want something to work with the Wink Hub, you can go with a GoControl Z-Wave Add-on. You can add it to any garage door you'd like. I installed mine, using a SmartThings hub, and it seems to work pretty well.

u/Ishtarrr · 4 pointsr/DIY

>can I just add new caulk on top of the old cracked painted stuff while the tub is filled with water and call it a day?

No you can't. If you try to add caulk on top of that, it'll look like absolute shit.

Use this to remove the old caulk:

If it's really hard to remove, you can use some of this to losen it up and make it easier:


When you recaulk, make SURE that you use caulk rated for bathrooms (it'll say on the tube). It needs to be silicone caulk. Not latex. If it's not specifically rated for bathrooms, it WILL get mold on it.


>I am worried this won't be enough though. I have never seen a tub with just drywall above it like this. So my next question is what are my options if caulking is not enough?


It should be enough if you're not showering in the tub, or bathing kids in there. A grown up isn't going to splash the water up that high.

If you want to waterproof it more, and then tile, without making a height difference, use this:


It's a paintable waterproof membrane. Just paint it on (two coats) and it'll form a layer of 'plastic' protrecting the drywall. Then you can tile right on top of it. Use actual tile set and NOT mastic glue for the tiles. Mastic will grow mold.


u/natemac · 1 pointr/smarthome

They had them on sale at walmart, Amazon & Best Buy this week for $30 and we picked one up for a friend of mine and worked instantly.... maybe its a faulty device.

u/frenchpressgirl · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If it's not caulk, this suggestion won't help, but I recently used 3M caulk remover to get the gunk off after we removed (horrible, hideous, ugly) metal shower doors. You squirt it on, let it sit for awhile, and then come back and scrub it off. It took some elbow grease, but it worked pretty well.

u/brock_lee · 2 pointsr/DIY

Get the quart can of the tub and tile refinisher from Rustoleum. Plenty there to do the required three coats on a bathtub. It's a two-part epoxy paint which cures hard and looks like porcelain, kind of. I've used it, and it's really, really good. Check the reviews on Amazon, too. If you decide to go that route, PM me for a bunch of tips. It's easy to mess it up. It does take the tub out of commission for a couple days while it cures, so factor that in.

u/burning-sky · 4 pointsr/AnneArundelCounty

Overhead Door is the only company that comes to mind for any reputable company in the area. You can actually mod an existing garage door to do different things. I found some resources from Amazon a while back. I have a LiftMaster, so I saved this stuff for myself. I'm sure that you can find easy solutions similar to this. Greetings from Hanover.

Liftmaster 888LM Security+ 2.0 MyQ Wall Control Upgrades Previous Models 1998 (and later)

Chamberlain/Liftmaster Cigbu Internet Gateway For Myq Technology Enabled Garage Door Openers

u/SurfNC02 · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

You have a lot of options. Easiest would probably go with a hub like a Samsung SmartThings hub and get zwave door/window sensors.
For the garage door you could use the GoControl outfit kit

The fireplace gets a bit tricky depending on how the control is. Most newer homes with gas logs are on a milivolt system, meaning the switch on the wall that opens the gas valve doesnt actually have power, its just a signal wire. For this case you need to get power to that switch location which could be as easy as tapping into the lines of an adjacent switch. You need a Zwave dry contact swtich.

u/Durnt · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

If you are a diyer you could use a nodemcu(ESP8266)

+ quad relay board(

+ project box and some wires

Both the relays and the nodemcu power off 5v so you could just use a cell phone charging brick to power them. You could have it controlled via a lightweight webpage or you could just have the phone use REST API to send messages to trigger the open/closed/stop.



EDIT: Or more simply, 3x + ewelink app. Personally I am more of a fan of the DIY opinion as I like local control without phone home worries

u/HAL9000000 · 0 pointsr/DIY

You could do a repair, then after that put a coating of this refinishing stuff on it:](

I've used this stuff and it looks great when you're done, although granted now you're painting over a brand new tub. OP, you might be able to use this stuff to refinish only the top edge of the tub. A white coat of this stuff would likely blend in with no difference between the top edge and the rest of the tub.

u/Davkhow · 6 pointsr/headphones

I've used the Knowles GK driver in all of my builds with a green damper on the TWFK. The sound signature is fairly flat, although I've never measured it. I'm no expert in sound and I haven't listened to a lot of good headphones so I don't really know how it compares to others. I have had a couple of people that told me they were the best sounding headphones they had listened to.

Here are all of the completed sets I've made. Set #1 and #7 were made for myself. #7 was just a reshell. The green and blue faceplates are Kirinite. It is typically used to make knife and gun handles. The wood is from a variety pack of veneer I bought from Amazon. For the wood, I cut rectangles of the veneer that are just bigger than what I need and glue them all together to get the thickness I need, typically 5 or 6 layers.

I also used a sheet of aluminum on my third set. I got it from a local metal supplier for free. Just a small cutoff. It was pretty difficult to work with. It had to be shaped before it was attached to the shell. It would get too hot and fall off when shaping it with it attached.

u/AMP_US · 15 pointsr/pcmasterrace

It does a bit. Another use for this foam is putting it under your pump or HDDs. I actually did this (with neoprene) in my build, but I don't have a clear picture of it. If you want "sound dampening" material, I recommend some this neoprene.

Other uses include on case panels opposite your fans, putting your actual case on the material to reduce vibration through the feet, and to fill in any gaps in your case around the rear fan area (also prevents re-circulation).

u/Twizik · 1 pointr/winkhub

I looked into the GoCOntrol briefly and I'm not sure why I passed it by. I have other GoControl peripherals that I like. Is THIS what you are talking about, it is the same price as the Chamberlain setup.

Edit: I remember why i passed this up. I had read people were having issues with the sensor, it doesn't know that it is up or down just that the door moved so if for some reason the laser gets tripped you cannot tell that the door went back open during its attempt to close. This may be incorrect information, I'd love to hear your take. Also I bought the Chamberlain for myself, each of us has 1 large 2 car garage door.

u/Noob911 · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

This one works great for me. I have it set to remind me if the garage door is left open longer than 15 minutes during the day, or if it is open at all after bedtime. it will auto close at certain times of the night, and when I set the house alarm...

u/legendtuner · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I have almost the same opener as you. I wanted something simple to allow remote open/close and notifications if it's been open. I didn't really want the complexity of SmartThings so I went with the Chamberlain Gateway. It works great and you can setup custom push notifications that notify you through their app.

u/troyhakala · 1 pointr/googlehome

You can open and close the door with your voice right now. Here's my review I posted on Amazon (other reviews):

It works, so I give it 3 stars. But it’s got a lot of problems.

The iOS app is quirky so anything other than opening and closing the door is weird and confusing to figure out. Giving my wife access to controlling the doors with her app requires figuring out totally undiscoverable UI. And it doesn’t look like iOS or Android so I don’t know what they’re going for design-wise. Fortunately, the Google Home integration is pretty good so I don’t use the app much. I can open a door by asking Google Home to do it while I’m walking through the kitchen and out to the garage and it’s open by the time I need to drive away.

The Apple Watch app doesn’t work at all. It always says it is “authorizing” but never gets authorized. They call it a “Beta” so maybe they’ll get it working eventually but it’s been this way for a year or longer.

The magnet and sensor have awkward designs and need to be so close to each other it’s difficult to mount them without the garage door breaking them. On one door I could mount them on the vertical side of the door so the magnet slides into place next to the sensor so there’s no risk of them hitting each other. But I had to mount them on the top of my other door and the angle the door comes down makes the clearance very tight and one open/close too many and they hit each other and snapped the sensor off. I broke 3 of the 4 pieces on the 2 Nexx Garage kits and had to mount them in a makeshift way with strong (3M VHB) adhesive tape and will probably be remounting them every 6 months as the adhesive wears out. It’s good that they fail safe – it makes you think the door is open when it’s not rather than the other way around.

They give you only enough wire for a straight line connection between the sensor mount location and the opener. I couldn’t do a straight line on one of my doors so I had to splice in wire to lengthen it. Wire is cheap, they should provide a longer length.

The double-sided tape on the unit for attaching it to the opener is weak and in just a few weeks one of mine came off and was dangling by the wires. More tape to the rescue.




u/amirandap · 1 pointr/homeautomation


The whole web interface got scrapped because developer quit on me, it works but i wasnt happy the way it looked or the way it worked just in case heres the link:

Dashboard | GPIO Server

EDIT: They are private, when i get home i will make them public


I also uploaded the code im currently using for Homebridge (Siri Video Intercom), Home Assistant (tablet mounted interface), Telegram (voice recording of visitor) for another reddit user here it is:

Smart Telegram Intercom

My first time actually sharing my code so just send me a DM if you need any explaining or help setting up

u/bloodytemplar · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

By "GoControl," I think you mean this? GoControl sells several Z-Wave accessories that are actually just rebadges of Linear, not just the garage door openers. :)

I have two of those, those mine are the "Iris" branded ones from Lowes (again, same manufacturer - Linear). They look like this in the app. Tap the green icon, they open and the icon turns yellow. Tap the yellow icon, they close and turn green. They can be controlled by SmartThings monitoring, CoRE, etc. There's actually a "Door Opener" device type that they register as.

Does that answer your question?

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/DIY

Do you mean patio? :P

Easy enough. Get one of these then do the hammer drill thing. For bolts in to the concrete either use the wedge anchor or set some bolts in with epoxy. Probably wise to use stainless steel for all your bolts.

u/tommctech · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

I've been using Meross, which goes on sale pretty frequently on Amazon. It works well and has Alexa integration.

u/waTabetai · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I'm going to try this on my acrylic bathtub.
I have the same style sink as you in my kitchen, so I'm going to use that too. I think it's worth a try. Also, I would probably youtube a few videos before attempting it.

Edit: Seems like a few people have fixed cracks just like yours. (Check out the review pictures.)

u/mareksoon · 2 pointsr/winkhub

I'd think those would both work (haven't used them), but given Wink recognizes them as garage door openers they will limit operations that let you schedule/trigger door openings.

However, since you have a MyQ opener, I wouldn't get the Chamberlain controller you linked; that's to convert non MyQ doors to MyQ. Your current opener already has MyQ, so if you go the Chamberlain/Liftmaster route, just get the Internet gateway others have listed.

... nor the GoControl. Those both have the door sensor that detects if door it open or closed; your MyQ opener already has that intelligence.

If I wasn't clear (or confused you), the Liftmaster/Chamberlain Internet gateway WILL integrate with Wink; Chambrlain/Liftmaster and Wink just place restrictions on what you can do with it security-wise. I think Wink places those restrictions on most, if not all devices it recognizes as a door opener. Alexa does, at least.

The MIMOlite, I've heard, will get you around that, because Wink doesn't know what it's actually controlling.

... but the MIMOlite, alone, doesn't provide a sensor to tell you if the garage is currently open or closed. A ZWAVE sensor designed to detect angular changes, such as this, would work (but I don't know if that one is supported by Wink)

u/ryanborstelmann · 5 pointsr/homeautomation

So I just built a new house, and the builders installed a MyQ-compatible motor (has the little MyQ logo on it). In this case, all one would need is this.

If your garage door is NOT MyQ-compatible, one would need this instead. This option is able to control non-MyQ garage doors. From Amazon: "MyQ Garage works with most major brands of garage door openers made after 1993. Compatibility is based on whether existing garage doors and openers are equipped with adequate safety features, such as sensor eyes. For more information about compatibility, visit"

u/joe100su · 2 pointsr/nfl

nice, that's a good one. also, found the wifi garage door switch

u/beepee123 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

My cheap/old garage door opener (Genie screw drive) has a bunch of exposed screw terminals for switches. One terminal opens/closes the door, one terminal toggles the light. They will work with any pushbutton switch, so anything that could drive a relay would work.

The door position sensors are just open/closed switches as well, so it would be really easy to wire it to anything that has a few i/o pins.

... so yeah anyway just get something like this and check the compatibility list:

u/hoanghuy · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Meross Smart Wifi Adapter is a whole lot better than Myq g0301. It's currently $20 OFF applied at checkout too, so it's $30 total with Prime. Scroll down to the bottom of this article for the comparison why you shouldn't use Chamberlain, mostly because of the multiple hoops and delays the signal has to jump through.

u/int0this · 1 pointr/HomeKit

I wanted them to update this one to home kit, benefits are it directly connects to your router and requires no additional tilt sensor.

I have been using it and works great with home-bridge and Home Assistant.

u/kayladsmith · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You can go to Home Depot or online and buy an epoxy finish for your bathtub, I did it for mine. You just have to sand down your tub first to make sure it’s smooth. Then you paint it, wait 6 hours, apply a second coat. And then let it sit for 24 hours. (If I remember correctly, it’s been about a year) and then it will be good as new! We also used it on a window seal in our shower to keep it from molding. epoxy paint

u/user_36753 · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

Amazon has not allowed Alexa to open/close doors or to unlock doors due to safety and security concerns. There are some workarounds out there.

I use the linear zwave garage door opener:

There is a custom device handler made for it on SmartThings that allows you to open and close it with alexa. However, I have tell alexa to turn it on (open) or off (close). It does not support Alexa telling me the status of the door. I still have to use the Smartthings app for that.

u/mikeofarabia17 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Use a 2 part finish because it will last a whole lot longer and generally be better. Something like this

u/Steve2828 · 1 pointr/googlehome

SmartThings then something like this:

Depending on how handy you are with things, you can also semi-roll-your-own with one of these:

Over on the smarttthings community there are several threads where people set this up (search MimoLite)

You can also use any zwave relay. Lots of good info on this over at SmartThings Community.

Once you have it working in the SmartThings, if it doesn't already appear as a switch to Google Home, you can make a virtual switch and then have a smartapp activate the door when the switch is pressed.

Personally, I made my own using an Arduino, a relay board, and a SmartThings "ThingShield" for arduinos. This was years ago before many ready-made z-wave options existed.

u/FearTheGrackle · 2 pointsr/CarPlay

Yes. You need three things:

An Apple TV 4k, iPad, or HomePod

One of these:
MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control

And either need to run homebridge 24x7 somewhere in your house on a computer, or get this:

LiftMaster MYQ 819LMB MyQ Home Bridge

u/remembertosmilebot · 0 pointsr/smarthome

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:


^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/bitchkat · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I did some home automation last year using a Wink Hub2 and bought $45 Z-Wave controllers for my garage doors that include tilt sensors so can tell if the garage door is open and get alerts. Plus it lets you control the garage door (and anything else connected to your Wink Hub) from your phone any place you have an internet connection.

Homelink on the car does better geofencing and the Wink will not auto open the garage doors for "security" reasons so they work really well together.

u/jrmckins · 1 pointr/ifttt

This doesn't help with your question but, if this thing goes on sale this week (Amazon Prime Days), then replace the MYQ

The idea that Chamberlain will charge to use something free like IFTTT is just ridiculous.

u/critus5486 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I went the upgrade route on my Chamberlain, I bought this to replace the wall unit opener in the garage:
And this is the wired gateway required to interface with the network:
Works perfectly with both Wink & Smartthings

u/dongger · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

As long it was made after 1998 all you need is to upgrade the wall panel with this and it will be compatible.

"The 888LM is compatible any LiftMaster, Chamberlain, Sears Craftsman garage door opener manufactured since 1998 with RED ORANGE or PURPLE learn button.
The 888LM is Not Compatible with Newer Security+ 2.0 garage door openers with a round YELLOW learn button and YELLOW Antenna.
Your existing remote controls and wireless keypad if your happy with them will also continue to work using the reciever in your garage door operator. There is no need to replace them.
When paired with the 828LM Internet Gateway, sold separately. You can control your garage operator with your smart phone, tablet or computer "

u/roothorick · 3 pointsr/homeautomation

The best option, in my opinion, is one of these and an appropriate Z-Wave controller. Everything else will handcuff you to one specific cloud platform and limit your integration options.

u/DarienLambert · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I use the Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller with my SmartThings hub. Works perfectly.

u/cdhgee · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

I bought the Linear GoControl Z-wave controller. It's compatible with most garage door openers, you just hook up a couple of wires into the garage door opener.

I have it connected to SmartThings, it works like a charm.

u/bmg1987 · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Looks like it dropped to $80

MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control

u/buro2018 · 2 pointsr/smarthome

Have you tried this one? You should be able to jump right from the switch even though they recommend from the opener itself.
meross Smart Wi-Fi Garage Door Opener Remote, APP Control, Compatible with Alexa, ...

u/Dezvinci · 1 pointr/deals

I use this and it has worked amazing with my garage door and google/alexa and its only 13 dollars

u/wca8819 · 1 pointr/DIY

Take a look at this stuff, worked great on making our tub look new. You can probably just use it on those specific spots.

u/beeedeee · 0 pointsr/homeautomation

I used one of these before I got a MyQ garage door opener. Works great with Wink and Alexa.

u/JackAceHole · 3 pointsr/SmartThings

I have the GoControl Z-Wave Controller and it works great with Smartthings.

u/hurlshow · 1 pointr/googlehome

I bought a NEXX Garage door opener and it works both with google home and nest via IFTTT. NO monthly fees and it was worked flawlessly since I installed it. Took me about 30 mins to install. It even has a safety pin that google home needs to open so if I leave a window open someone can’t tell “hey google open the garage”.

NEXX Garage NXG-100 Nxg Remote Compatible Door Openers-Control Using Smart Phone, Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant Enabled Devices, White

u/enjoytheshow · 2 pointsr/DIY

I painted porcelain wall tile in our bathroom that was avocado green about 2 years ago and it's held up brilliantly.

I used this stuff

u/Kanaloa · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Link didn't work for me, but yes, the MyQ uses a hub. I think I have this one. It needs power and an ethernet connection, and needs to be close enough to the garage doors. The door opener might come with it?

*I found the item you linked, it specifically states hub not included.

u/MistakenAnemone · 4 pointsr/smarthome

GoControl/Linear edge

This works with some, but all, garage door openers. And when it works it's extremely way to use and install. I use mine with Smart things hub.

u/simplyclueless · 2 pointsr/GoogleWiFi

Yes. This one works fine.

u/ctsims · 2 pointsr/reloading

Not 100% sure what the difference is (might just be depth of unit/quality of construction), but this is the actual product on Amazon. Similar, but not quite the same. The actual product is about $20 more expensive on Amazon (although that price difference drops if you have prime).

u/chrisbrl88 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Dig a hole 2 feet deep (minimum), pour a footer using an 8" tube form, and use a post base. You can set the base and put the anchors into the concrete while it's still wet to avoid having to drill (just make sure you get it plumb using a torpedoes level). It'll run you all of fifty bucks. The EZ base is the most expensive part.

u/ShacklefordLondon · 4 pointsr/nashville

Sorry this happened to you. We installed Door Devil's for some peace of mind. Makes kicking in the door about 1000x harder

u/eightdrunkengods · 2 pointsr/motorcycles

Is is this thing?

It doesn't look very big. I'd probably just take the clip off and put it in my pocket (that's why I do with my garage remote, actually). If you want to go smaller, you could consider something like this.

Any programmable 300 MHz remote should work with the gate receiver. I'd find one with the same dip switch config as the remote you have. The switches are basically the "combination" that allows the remote to open the gate. Open old and new remotes, set the switches on the new remote to mimic the old one. Then the new remote should open the door.

u/bk553 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

We just got an Chamberlain WD1000WF to replace our old sears opener from the 90's and it is really nice, it's so quiet the dogs don't even know we're home anymore.

u/BoondockSaint296 · 1 pointr/SmartThings

I have had this one for a fee months now and it works with SmatThings, but not Alexa for now. It works really well and can hookup to just about any garage door opener.

GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black

u/je_taime · 2 pointsr/dogs

This is what I have left over from a former house.

There many options for clear skateboard grip tape --

That gym grip spray, which is resin mostly, does not last long. I tried it on my own feet in one of the bathrooms.

u/three-one-seven · 3 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I've had good results with this, and it's waaaay cheaper than hiring someone: Epoxy Refinishing Kit

u/teacu · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

You might be interested in this tub paint.

u/dekas_guitarhero · 1 pointr/Abode

You can buy the GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener

Those are compatible with Abode system. I bought one, integrated it with my Abode and now it can control my Liftmaster. It's been working great, I set up automatically closing after a few minutes and when alarm mode is changed to Home or Away.

There are some reviews saying that this controller only works for about a year and then quits, so I'd recommend buying the extra warranty (it was $10 bucks for 3 years on Amazon).

u/Bored_Stiff69 · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control

u/_sn2_ · 1 pointr/TeslaModel3

M using this. It’s very simple to setup.

MyQ Smart Garage Door Opener Chamberlain MYQ-G0301 - Wireless & Wi-Fi enabled Garage Hub with Smartphone Control

u/Hedsteve · 1 pointr/DIY

Fill the buckets and then install brackets on top.

brackets on Amazon

u/400HPMustang · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Do you know how to tell which devices are compatible with this firmware? I have one of these, I'd like to get native compatibility with:


u/PinBot1138 · 3 pointsr/SmartThings

I use the model that you’re talking about (GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black and it works great, and a shout-out to their support team for owning up to a known defect in the first version that I got where it would beep and do everything as expected, but not actually open the garage. So, technically, I’d say 5 stars, though I’d have to knock it down to 4 stars only for the trouble of replacing the lemon unit with a working one.

Every now and then, the replacement unit does exhibit this problem of beeping and not doing anything when I ask it to, but that’s so few and far between, and works if I go after it for a second time, that I’d still recommend this to you.

u/ghrayfahx · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black

I install one of these every week or so. They work really well for modern openers.

u/ecirfolip · 4 pointsr/homeautomation

This device is currently natively supported in SmartThings and will both control your garage door and let you know if it's open/closed:

u/spinjc · 1 pointr/HomeKit

Looks like per Chamberlain - myQ Home Bridge it'll work:

>Adds both smartphone control and HomeKit™ compatibility to:
>* LiftMaster and Chamberlain myQ-enabled garage door openers (has a myQ logo/no Wi-Fi logo)
>* LiftMaster MyQ Control Panel (model 888LM)

Note that you might be able to get even cheaper by getting an old liftmaster/chamberlain opener and a 888LM wall control and the home bridge.

I wouldn't be surprised if the 888LM works with other brands. (I'd check with a local garage door installer if they've tested this setup.)

u/WorkingMan69 · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

Not any opener... If you have one with digital signals over the wire to the opener instead of analog signals, it will not work. This is surprisingly a lot of newer openers. It would be any that have other buttons than the open/close button on the wall opener. (Like this one )

u/mikaelhg · 2 pointsr/Skookum

Well, there's this for metals:

Or wood:


Or for 300€, you can get a professional plastic sample set meant for product design:

u/doktoroktobor · 2 pointsr/amazonecho

It’s this device, and it uses the eWeLink app to configure.

I want to be able to, for example, grant access to my in-laws so they can let themselves in, but without having them signed in to my Alexa account.

This is more of an Alexa or IFTTT question, as this same question could apply to my Lutron controllers, ecobee, etc...

u/Fog_xyz · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Did my tub using this - helped quite a bit with the scraping.

(Insert your own "big, hard caulk" joke here).

u/IGotYourMaam · 0 pointsr/InteriorDesign

I know it's a rental, but if you're feeling up to it, Rust-Oleum has those Tub refinishing kits for $25. Yellow tub gone.

u/darktor · 1 pointr/homeautomation

If your asking how to add MyQ to your current garage door opener, you'll need this.

I bought mine at Amazon.

u/HtownTexans · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

I have the GoControl for my 2 garage doors. It works great and most importantly integrates with hubs and IFTTT (i prefer Stringify though). The MyQ does not release there API to work with other services from what I here. I use a Wink and story around the block is you can't even make Robots using the MyQ. However, 20 dollars is a steal esp. compared to 80.

u/Fat-Penguin-COCK · 7 pointsr/winkhub

I just installed mine last night, you need the my q internet gateway, not all openers come with it, but the serial number is on the bottom of the gateway.

u/butch81385 · 3 pointsr/funny

And you don't even have to replace your opener. You can buy something like the Meross garage door kit ( It needs power, wifi signal, and needs to connect to contacts on your existing opener. If you have a wired "doorbell style" button, you can just splice it into those wires. It also comes with a door sensor so you can see if the door is currently open or closed and get warnings if the door is open longer than a set time limit.

u/roboticArrow · 118 pointsr/howto

Rust-Oleum 7860519 Tub And Tile Refinishing 2-Part Kit, White

u/hollaburoo · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

I just did this, and I used this:

Basically, it's a 2-part epoxy paint which you brush on (they also have a spray paint version). It comes in 3 colors, white, almond, and bisque.

It'll take a lot of prep work, you basically need to clean the entire bathroom several times over, and scrape off all old paint and such from the tiles. It also smells really bad, I had to take breaks every 5 minutes, and that was with a heavy duty rebreather mask. It will probably smell worse for longer if you go with the spray paint version.

It came out quite nice though, and it seems to be holding up well.

u/Xhoodlum · 1 pointr/reloading

This is the kit not just the panels and it's currently $66.97 on Amazon.

El Linko:

u/ThatDudeAaron · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Liftmaster internet gateway (for newer liftmaster openers)

MyQ MYQ-G0301 for just about anything else


u/plasm0dium · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Is this the same as the Liftmaster 828LM? I have a Liftmaster 8500 opener and their Internet gateway looks exactly the same. Can someone confirm?

828LM LiftMaster Internet Gateway

u/kakunaratata · 1 pointr/motorcycles

I assume you're talking about this

I had this device and it did everything I needed. That $99 model wasn't out yet when I purchased mine.

edit. I believe my $50 device only worked with Chamberlain garage door openers that had built in MyQ technology that made it compatible. I think the $99 device makes virtually any garage door opener compatible.

u/R0bX · 1 pointr/homeautomation

Is this different than the one at Amazon that is only $45?

u/dr0ffig · 2 pointsr/ifttt

i have that built into the pad that mounts on the wall - it defaults to about a minute and beeps beforehand. I am out of the country or else I would send a picture of the keypad. very similar to the one in the middle of this main picture -



edit - found it - this is what i have -

u/Jazz87 · 0 pointsr/winkhub

Here's one

Also this zwave garage door opener works with wink GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black

u/diomark · 3 pointsr/SmartThings

I've been using this one for over a year without any issues - GoControl/Linear GD00Z-4 Z-Wave Garage Door Opener Remote Controller, Small, Black

u/thingpaint · 1 pointr/homeautomation

>I don’t know what to do about the garage door as I can’t use MyQ.

I bought this it's an actual legit z-wave device. I'm trying to get away from things that use the cloud, just from a reliability standpoint.

u/scottocs · 2 pointsr/homeautomation

So you're saying if I buy the MyQ Garage Door Opener for my new house, I can return this?

u/bubblegoose · 1 pointr/homeautomation

I have one of these that can handle "inching" and check it with my Wyze camera. Semi redneck engineered, but I can check if we forgot the door or the kids left it open.

u/FinalF137 · 1 pointr/Nest

I bought the MyQ on prime day this year,, It works as expected but it doesn't integrate with nest, It does with Google but you can only open it through the app not voice command, you can close it with a voice command though.

u/nancyjunebug · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement
This was recomended above and I am thinking of getting it.

u/AlexTakeTwo · 1 pointr/homeautomation

>But if I did leave it open, it's not the kind of mistake one makes more than once

Sadly, not true. After never leaving a garage door open in my life, I moved into a new house and left the garage open three times in two weeks. Sigh.

I have a Z-Wave automation system, so I put an open/close tilt sensor on the door, and next step is a remote open/close control for the door.

MyQ is my preference for an opener since I have to replace my garage door opener anyway, but if your existing controller is not compatible with MyQ there is a third party device called NEXX Garage Door Opener which is a little more expensive but supposed to be compatible with most openers.

u/joehx · 1 pointr/Flipping

Bought a new smart garage door opener for about ten bucks, sold it for $60 on ebay. About $30 profit.

I originally was going to use it for myself, but I needs some sort of central hub that I don't have and didn't want to pay for. I would've listed it for $80 but it was missing the tilt sensor (I bought it at an overstock auction - I guess it must've been a return).

u/sheeksta · 2 pointsr/googlehome

I bought meross. Couldn't be happier. Frequently available as low as $38 on Amazon

u/thejunioristadmin · 7 pointsr/homeautomation

I bought this go control unit from amazon back in October and set it up without much trouble. Initially I just had a hub and this for my garage to be able to check the door status after we left the house and my wife would question whether the door had closed.

I was in my basement at about 10pm the first time I heard the garage open. I thought it was odd since I knew my wife was upstairs on her computer so I checked it out and asked if she had triggered the door to open from her phone though I wasn't sure if she knew she could do this. I checked a few things on the smart things app, shut the door from the OG button outside and went to bed.

About a month later I woke up and headed out to work to find the garage door open. When I got to my car I immediately knew it had been gone through. Nothing valuable to a thief was stolen but they did take the hand mics to both my ham radio and my cb (I offroad and use these to communicate with my group), a knife that was in the driver front door pocket, and a car phone charger.

I checked my wifes car and saw that the center console had been tossed. Her car is kind of a mess so although I knew someone had gone through it I couldn't tell if anything was gone. I knew I couldn't do anything about it at that point so I left for work and an hour later when I knew she'd be awake I texted her about what had happened. She walked down to check the garage and it was open again after I know it closed when I left. She closed it and did her thing before also leaving for work.

I was in the middle of something at the office so I couldn't immediately leave but a few minutes later I went home (20 minutes away) and disconnected the GoControl. I haven't done anything with it since then. I did realize later though that the thief took my dewalt 20v battery and unplugged my charger to also take but actually left because the power cable was twisted around a few different things. I feel fortunate that they didn't steal more because I had my drills and other tools right in front of my car on a work bench.