(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best building materials

Wait hold on a sec you are not actually keeping them together are you? If you are you will have babies! But my guess is not...

You are right it's hormones... I can suggest a few thing below that may help in the short term.

Start with giving each a stuffed animal to take some frustration out on.



For flooring I highly suggest this indoor/outdoor rug - it is easy to clean, inexpensive, and due to a tight weave hard to chew. A lot of bunny parents on here use it and love it. :)

1. If they love to dig though don't deny them, provide a good alternative instead on top of the rug below in one spot - these seagrass mats - they are safe and awesome.
   
2. Giving toys and things that are actually meant for digging and chewing will prevent the carpet digging (as in more targeted toys) - try to provide a box full for shredded paper to dig like this in or a cat scratcher like this one or something like this.
   
   For moldings and baseboards:
   
   
3. you can try a spay in this video (it will not stain) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_QNPkPbqDk
   
4. you can also try this tape (but be very careful to be sure they do not chew it!) - I think it doesn't ruin paint, but try in one hidden spot to test.
   
5. You can also get some white colorplast, cut to size and attache along the baseboards with some command strips that do not damage pain and come of cleanly.
   
6. You can also use NIC storage cube grids to tie together with zip-ties and make a sort of barrier to place along the baseboards. This would work better for a room and particular spot, for a whole house I think colorplast strips are more elegant solution.
   
7. The last and most important point - bunnies are smart and they need toys to entertain them and stay out of trouble. In the absence of good things to chew they will chew the other things - chewing and digging is their natural instinct, so the solution is not to stop them, but to provide alternatives specifically meant for them to chew and dig and to reinforce them using it. Bunnies are very food-motivated so you can use food to train them to do what you want them to do. :)
   
   
   1. I will mention some things to buy and make for toy for your bun below - don't think you need to get everything - start with some basic things and rotate toys to keep him interested. But the most important thing is reinforcing and redirecting. Bunnies do really understand positive reinforcement and build positive associations when you redirect bad behavior and reward good behavior. So you have to actively and diligently train the bunny overtime not to chew and dig the wrong things. Anytime you see digging or chewing, immediately try to offer a toy or some alternative instead and reward with a small treat when it works. This does need to be done very diligently each time you see him do things like that.
      
      So what to give as toys?
      
      
8. Bunnies like exporting type toys - tunnels, cardboard houses, willow and hay balls, chews, and treat puzzles . The two thread below have examples:
   
   
   1. https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/an8cut/rabbit_room_ideas/
      
   2. https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/ajf2vl/how_to_enrich_my_rabbits_life/
      
9. Also a couple suggestions below that are my personal favorites and all buns tend to enjoy:
   
   
   1. Treat/pellets ball - feed pellets in it vs a bowl
      
   2. Nesting cups - hide little treat bits between stacked cups, I have not met a bun who doesn't love these
      
   3. Plastic slinky - most buns love these
      
   4. Play house
      
   5. Dig box
      
10. Also try homemade things - the best I found was an empty egg carton stuffed wit favorite greens for him to figure out how to open. :)
    
    
    1. Or something like this https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/be338f/diy_pellet_dispenser/
       
    2. Or a homemade castle like this person did https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/bcl9p4/cardboard_castle/ - she has instructions on how to make one, send her a message.
       
11. Chew toys specifically - there are what you need to get to offer as alternatives to him chewing furniture!
    
    
    1. Willow and hay balls are great - good quality ones here https://shop.smallpetselect.com/collections/natural-toys-and-chews-for-rabbits
       
    2. They also have these logs where you can hide treats and pellets for fun - the bun would love to chew those I think and they last too. :)
       
    3. Great quality toys that are super fragrant and yummy to chew here https://www.farmerdavepetsupply.com/toys
       
    4. And thicker good chew sticks here https://www.farmerdavepetsupply.com/chew-sticks
       
       _____________________
       
       Litter training:
       
       To begin two things are key - proper set up and knowing how to train/reinforce the habit of using the litter box. I assume you have the correct set up already to I'll move on to the second part.
       
       Some great advice in this thread https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/a53dzf/litter_training/
       
       The key is to reinforce diligently! Bunnies are very food motivated so use that to you advantage... Use positive reinforcement to build a clear association that using the litter box leads to good things. Remind her that a litter box is a good thing by giving a tiny treat every time you see her use it for a while - a treat can be a pellet, a small piece of favorite green, etc. If you are ever there and see her get ready to go (her tail kind of lifts up like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym7-BBY4ep4) scoop her up gently and put in the litter box. If you see her make one poop, as soon as you see it place her right in the box so the rest she does in there. Once she goes give that little treat as a reward. This reinforcement if done consistently over time will really help (though spaying is still a must). Place any poops you find back into her litter box together with the bunny to reinforce and if she pees outside use a napkin to blot it and again place back into the litter box
       
       Lastly be sure you clean the spot she pees outside her litter box each time wit white vinegar to remove the scent of her pee so that she doesn't keep coming back to the spot.

So as promised here are the majority of materials/tools I used to make the counters. I used the stain instead of actually coloring the concrete as I was worried about getting inconsistent coloring since I was doing multiple batches.
Now, my mistake I made which turned ok after the fact was that the concrete became too dense for the stain to penetrate. Despite using the sawzall to try and vibrate the air bubbles out from the bottom of the concrete but I was not able to get all of them out so there was pin holes on some of the counters. So I made a slurry as recommended and filled in all the holes and then sanded the high spots down. So when I stained the counters the areas that had been filled with slurry took to the stain very well but the actual concrete only became a darker grey. I communicated with a staff from ConcreteSolutions and they were very helpful in trying to get the stain to penetrate the concrete. I stained it probably 3 times and then just left it as it was and now I really love how it turned out despite not being as planned. Its almost like a black and grey leopard spot on most of the counters, the island area was the last poured and had hardly any air bubbles so its more solid color…
I let them sit and harden at least a week before I flipped them over and started sanding away. I did not want a exposed aggregate look so I had to be careful about sanding too much…
The stain and sealer work great and like the other user said, liquid just sits on an it and doesn’t not penetrate.
If you have any questions ask away- I had lots of friendly people help me on other forums and was very thankful for their help….

Chengs Book
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1561584843/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1

Sealer
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-siacryl-14-sealer/

Polish
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-counter-shine-polish/

Dye/Stain
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/stains-and-integral-colors/z-aqua-tint-dye/

Nylon Fibers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCDCM

SUPERPLASTICIZER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/161011304020

Diamond polishing pads
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB1UMOW

Variable speed polisher
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-60626.html

Yeah, I did a few test batches that were in the 12"x12" neighborhood. I used melamine for the forms and largely found this Ask This Old House video to be very helpful (although I didn't use the spray method for the initial coat). Key points that I used and learned:

• Using caulk for a roundover works really well. Use a high contrast color between the mold and the caulk so that you can clean up excess caulk (e.g. if using white melamine for the mold, black silicone caulk is perfect). You might be surprised how much detail the concrete picks up from stray bits of caulk that you left in the mold.
  
  • Tools like these modeling tools are great and give consistent roundovers
    
• As in the ATOH video I linked above, I used glass fiber reinforcement instead of using a metal mesh. Fwiw, I used this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE/
  
• Wax the whole form with paste wax before applying caulk. It makes the excess caulk peel away SOOOOO much easier
  
• Add extra support to your form if needed. Concrete weighs a lot, and you don't want to have a curve in your countertop just because the mold was sagging under the weight of the concrete
  
• It's worth the effort to get your mold nice and level. It also needs to be stable enough that it's not going to bounce all over the place as you hit it with a mallet to get rid of air bubbles.
  
• For the form, I used screws to secure the walls to the main board. Drill generous pilot holes so that the screws pull the walls tight. Countersink the tops, and use some tape to cover the screw heads (I used painters tape). Covering the screw heads makes it easy to remove the screws after the concrete has cured and it's time to open the form. If you get concrete in the screw head, it's not the end of the world, but it's a pain to deal with.
  
• Plan ahead and rehearse your order of operations before you start anything that is time sensitive (primarily when it's time to pour the concrete). Do you have enough water? Enough concrete mix? Are your tools available? If you're mixing with a battery operated drill, do you have charged backup batteries? Dust mask? Screed that can span your mold?
  
• The mix especially for the part that will be visible will be soupier than you might expect if you've used concrete for things like fence posts. It being loose will allow the air bubbles to escape due to vibrations.
  
• I found a firm mallet worked better and was less exhausting than a larger rubber mallet. I've seen people on YouTube use power tools like random orbit sanders or reciprocating saws, but I did not have much success with those.
  
  I think that's pretty much everything. Doing a couple test pieces will teach you a ton. Have patience, have fun, and good luck!

Food and water typically goes in a covered area of the run. Only way to keep rodents out of it is to only feed them a day's worth of food at a time. This prevents waste as well.

Chickens will go in every night. If the run is fully secure (2"x4" welded wire, chain link, or other strong wire, not chicken wire), then you don't need a door. If the run is open on the or is otherwise not fully secure, then you do need a door that can latch. They could probably figure out a swinging door, but so can a predator. Unless you're in a very cold area, just leave it as an open hole if your run is going to be 100% enclosed.

As for cover for the run, it depends on the size and how you're building it. 1/4" or 1/2" hardware cloth is the best if they're going to be roosting somewhere that a raccoon could reach. Chain link or 2"x4" welded wire is sufficient for the most of the run. 50' 1/2", 50' 1/4"

I free range my birds, so I don't really do much coop cleaning. Laying down fresh hay after a rain in the uncovered portion of my coop is about all they get. You probably want to replace the substrate when it's dirty... People love walk-in coops for that purpose.

It's not available right now, but I bought this from Amazon. It was less than half the price of Home Despot, and with free shipping, it worked out well. It's super sturdy, and good for keeping out predators.

Ok so when you rip up the carpet and padding. Chances are your tread will have the bull nose. That's the rounded edge that sticks out over the riser below. You will have to cut that off as you attach the laminate bull nose instead.

As for the treads.. Use a template like this

https://www.amazon.com/Stair-Tread-Gauge-Shelf-Layout/dp/B00JUOS4RS/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_60_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=JT9Z9PW829NESGKT0E15

Yes it's $100 and seems expensive but will save you MASSIVE amounts of time. Stairs are not a perfect rectangle and a perfect 90 degree. This template will help you cut the laminate to perfectly match.

There's tons of youtube videos on stairs but it's not hard just time consuming.

If you want a super quick and cheap upgrade to the garage door, get a set of these magnetic door accents.

They're cheap and easy to install (they're magnets, so just pop em on), and they look nice on that style of garage door (that's the same style we have). I put mine on almost 2 years ago and other than my toddler moving the handles once, they've been awesome.

Oh, and for that size of garage door, a single pack of those is enough - doing the double pack setup like they have pics of on the product page looks a little silly IMO.

even with double layered 5/8 ply while its structurally meets the strength you need for tiling. it will expand and contact every winter/summer season. those movements will cause the grey thinset he used to crack and come apart. even with flexible grout. One type of solution is to use a flexible mortar base like http://www.wayfair.com/Custom-Building-Products-VersaBond-Flex-Fortified-Thin-Mortar-Set-50lb-MTWS50WHT-L6911-K~YFY1086.html?refid=GX54801249780-YFY1086&device=c&ptid=80545458060&gclid=CNr8jrOuu8oCFQ8taQod8DQCFA
or using an uncoupling membrane like schluter ditra in place of hardibacker http://www.amazon.com/Schluter-Systems-Ditra54-Underlayment-54sqft/dp/B003VKYKWA/ref=sr_1_3/185-3466943-4132966?ie=UTF8&qid=1453395109&sr=8-3&keywords=schluter-ditra

Definitely veneer. Don't bother trying to save it.

You can definitely sand or strip it off and apply new veneer. The edge is actually pretty easy to trim to the rounded corners.

Paint and epoxy would last longer than the veneer.

I'm not sure about the installation of the window film. I live in an apartment, so the option isn't even on the board for me. I hear it can be somewhat expensive, though.

As far as the locks go, most doors in the US come with a standard size deadbolt hole drilled out so that you can use any brand you want and it will still fit. If your door does not have this already drilled out, you should be able to find out the correct measurements online and drill the door yourself (if it's a wooden door).

As far as the gun-proof lock goes, standard deadbolts will be able to hold up against handgun shots. However, shotgun slugs and hunting rifle rounds will likely compromise the lock. (As seen on MythBusters: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0852842/synopsis).

It's good to have a deadbolt that is internal only as well. One that can only be locked & unlocked from the inside. That may provide some additional protection against being shot out with a shotgun slug.

If that's something you need to worry about, don't forget that a deadbolt isn't the only way to secure a door when you're home. Anything that prevents the door from opening will help:

• http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-265DCCSEN-Dual-Function-Security/dp/B0002YUX8I/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Blocker-Nickel/dp/B00D2K367Y/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Door-Jammer-Portable-Security-Device/dp/B00BZB97AM/
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Doorricade-107250-Door-Bar/dp/B007R6CALC/
  
  These seem like better options than a slug-proof lock due to price alone. I can't imagine how much such a lock would cost that would seal your door like a vault. These provide the same amount of protection without being cost-prohibitive.

Food Grade 85% .. insanely strong when not diluted.. you can dilute 5 to 1 water to acid or 10:1 water to acid easily. I have put rusty bolts in the undiluted and they come out like they were sandblasted in about an hour.. the threads all cleaned out like new.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover-Clean/dp/B06XZSW3QX

or you can buy a quart of rustmort which i always use to use as an autobody tech .. its great .. I would say its probably a 10:1 dilution

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust-Mort-Quart/dp/B000HI690U/

this is why I will never drink cola drinks again

https://jillcataldo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/cokeingredients.jpg

I think it all looks pretty rad. A little on the cartoon side, but that's not bad and it all fits style-wise, there's no disparity between pieces. I also really like the color for the portal and circle.

> how to make some pools of blood without painting them directly on the tile

Overhead projector sheet, or something like microscope slides/thin plastic or glass bits you can paint on.

Alternatively, lay down some hot glue on waxed paper and let it cool. Hopefully it'll smooth out a bit and not be lumpy like hot glue often does. Paint it red. Done! You can paint/dye some rice or grains and throw it in before it cools to add some viscera or gore type stuff, too.

I definitely recommend covers as well. I've had plenty of rainy stuffy days where I couldn't open a window and was glad to have vent covers. Raises your roof line a bit though(broke one on a tree once). Really easy to install a replacement if it happens. Only cost about $20 each and don't require any sealing, they hover just above the roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Cleaning-Aerodynamic-Included-40431/dp/B000BUQODG

My favorite pool solution, especially for small spaces, is a 6" tall deli cup surrounded by craft mesh or plastic gutter guard (like this https://www.amazon.com/Frost-VX620-Plastic-Gutter-Guard/dp/B000LNNS3W).

Here's my current fresh water pool: https://imgur.com/FOM4wMe Tiny zip ties were used to attach the gutter guard to itself.

The crabs love it, can fully submerge, climb all around, and it takes up a tiny amount of room!

it'll actually be the upset of that. Old treads 9 3/4". New treads will be a 2x10 so roughly 9 1/4".

I have a sliding miter saw and bought this today https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JUOS4RS - hoping the treads go well. Still debating if I should just re-use, paint, and sand the risers. I'd have to rip cut the risers and am worried about getting them lined up perfectly at the bottom of treads. Nice thing is I can get under the stairs to nail the risers into back of treads for a tight fit at the Tread into Riser transition.

https://i.imgur.com/ea8hsJW.png here is my sweet mspaint example. Any idea how I can ensure the top of the riser is a really tight and non-visible seal to the tread? Other than small rip cut after rip cut until it's right?

Can you link the seller post or send some pics of it? It helps to know the design style because there are a few types.

One simple fix you can try is getting some safety grip tape and add it to the wheel surface. Use a blwo dryer or heat gun to get the tape and wheel warm while applying it because it helps the adhesive get a solid grip and keeps the edges from coming up.

The tape also makes the wheel more annoying to clean, but that isn't an issue with all chins. Even if it does become an issue, you can just peel the dirty tape off and replace it. The stuff is pretty cheap. You may be worried that the grit will be too rough, but chinchilla feet are adapted to rough rocks and sand from their original environment. It acts more like a pumice stone that helps keep their callouses fresh enough to avoid cracking which can be an entry point for bumblefoot issues, anyway.

Grip tape to help give you that feeling you're getting better traction. Something such as this: Tape King Anti Slip Traction Tape - 4 Inch x 30 Foot - Best Grip, Friction, Abrasive Adhesive for Stairs, Safety, Tread Step, Indoor, Outdoor - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M63K167/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uJc0DbQTCAHBF

Pool noodle or foam from the craft store attached to the beam, perhaps a couple layers thick if you think it's warranted. Spray glue or hot glue maybe, to get it to stick.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PV84NCR

Install by tapping in to the wires going to your PC switch. Set for momentary, download the app and your all set. FYI, you use the app to configure it, but you can use a smart speaker to control after it's configured. You can also turn it off and on via voice if you have a smart speaker like an Echo. BTW, when you activate it, if the PC is already on it will turn it off. For just a phone without a smart speaker, just search for wake on lan.

https://www.amazon.com/Mosaic-Square-Mirror-Self-Adhesive-Silver/dp/B073NZM3MY/ref=pd_sbs_201_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B073NZM3MY&pd_rd_r=5X6EA6NEM2ZF4E1H1DCX&pd_rd_w=AS91J&pd_rd_wg=w7DGq&psc=1&refRID=5X6EA6NEM2ZF4E1H1DCX

that's the tiles, its 5x5mm a bit small but it's easy for small corners, and you can cut it in half. it's already adhesive, but sometimes, like for the outline, glue is useful

anyone thinking of a similar job should look into DITRA. Truly awesome subfloor product. It might cost more, but you will NEVER have cracked tile or grout with a proper subfloor and DITRA. The subfloor and the tile are allowed to move independently.

I am amazed at how straight your lines are.

I do have to say the layout is strange. But if the product had that much variable, what can you do.

Is the smart garage door opener you listed any different than buying an the smart upgrade kit for current openers?

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Chamberlain-CIGCWC-Internet-Smartphone-Connectivity/dp/B00C1CF1S6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1484141777&sr=8-5&keywords=myq

These are great EACHEN WiFi Wireless Inching Relay Monentary/Self-Locking Switch Module DIY Smart Home Remote Control DC 5-32V AC90-260V Ewelink App iOS/Andriod Compatible with Alexa Echo Google Home IFTTT (ST-DC1)

relay board with Wi-Fi

I only have experience with concrete but this is a type of additive that might be suitable, also glass fibers will add strength or really anything that will help give it some structure and rigidity https://www.amazon.com/32-504-4-Inch-Nylon-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000COCDCM/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2H3PGMH6CYWM50GJFTM3

I’d love to see Ring certify wireless in door sensors like these. I have monitoring so it’s not an option, but for self monitored maybe someone can confirm if they work?

Aeotec Recessed Door Sensor Gen5, Invisible Z-Wave Plus security and open / close sensor, Battery powered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IsahDbKZMR709

Which MyQ system do you have?
Ceiling Mounted
or
Wall Panel

With the wall panel version you can set an auto-close timer right on the wall panel.
I had originally bought the ceiling mounted one myself but found it wasn't reliable and lacked this feature. I switched to the wall panel one and it works much more quickly and has the auto-close timer. Much easier to install as well. If you have the ceiling mounted one I would return it and switch if it isn't too late.

Agreed. I love the way my 626 looks with real wood. The tool that helped the most with the rewrap process was this thing, so be sure to suggest the buyer get one. Cloverdale 33437 Band-It Edge Trimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B1CHDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H.00CbAKXFW5M

Thanks for the ideas. I'll have to measure the box on the house and compare it to the one you linked. Maybe your box is large enough to completely cover it and then the current position wouldn't be as much of an issue.

I think the only issue with the cover you linked is that it is for Dutch lap siding. I have hardiplank, so I'm not sure if it will work, since there are difference in how the siding is cut. I might just buy a few different types and see what works best.

One other option I'd rather not do but could be a possibility is to remove that box and install one of these in its place. I'd really rather come up with a solution that uses the existing box instead, but this is always an option.

If you already dabble in home automation or want to get started, you could hard-wire this type of fixture each of them, then install this recessed z-wave sensor. In this case you'd also need to get smart bulbs (I like Osram LIGHTIFY bulbs. You can get on/off only ones for $20). Then you'd configure your hub to turn on the lights every time the contact opens, and turn them off when it closes.

I've had decent success with these 12inx12inx3mm birch sheets I got off amazon. 45 sheets for $65 (these were down to $60 a while back).

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC/

Hi. They make lamp mounting kits for vinyl siding.

Builders Edge 130110006001 Surface Block 001, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041NT7D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AV9RAbVRZCPWS


There are different colors. Find one that has the right amount of steps for your type of siding.
Use a outdoor silicon to seal around the edges and there are foam pads you can use between the junction box to the siding cover plate. Hopefully they put a junction box in there, the lamp mount attaches onto the box. If they didn’t, install an outdoor box in there too.

Here is another
Arlington 8141-1 Vertical Siding Lamp Mounting Kit with Built-in Box for 1/2 Inch Vertical Siding LAP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W6ZOCO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4V9RAbFQ3P1Z4

Hope that helps. Turn off the breaker before wiring.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013NT3OAC/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_60_of_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Kzr2zFjSL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0MX1HXF0SQPPK6SWQCCQ

45square feet for $50. This is the best deal around I could find so far. All the other places I've looked put the square foot price higher when shipping is added. I've bought stuff from woodpeckers in the past too.

HERE'S WHAT YOU DO

I am assuming your fireplace is propane or natural gas and not wood. A real wood fire would be hard to automate. I am also assuming that your fireplace has an IR remote control...otherwise we are in the realm of servos and stuff to automate a physical control.

Embed a small magnet in the tip of the wand, and embed the controller half of a door sensor somewhere near the fireplace; a recessed one like this may offer the cleanest install. When the magnet in the wand gets close to the door sensor, it will report that it's closed and you can use that as a trigger for the action. From there, a Harmony Hub is probably the best way to turn the door close into an IR signal.

You could also set "incendio" as a custom voice command for a nearby Google Home, so it's the spoken charm that makes the action and all the wand-waving is just for show, but having to say the "hey google" wake word kind of breaks the illusion.

Most are a standard size. You can safely buy one from Amazon...

Replacement vent

And this is what I put over my vent:

Vent cover

You don't have to worry about rain getting in, and theoretically, you can drive with the vent open.

Some people use chicken wire.

Carpenter cloth is another popular solution.

1/8" X 12" X 12" Baltic Birch Plywood Great for Laser, Cnc, and Scroll Saw. 45pc Woodpeckers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013NT3OAC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I’m pretty sure I know something similar to the sticks you’re describing. You can get a high quality one for $20 off of Amazon: Master Lock Security Bar, Adjustable Door Security Bar. They’re telescoping/sliding metal pole thingies that you force under the doorknob (on your side of the door). You need to adjust the height of the rod to fight your doorknob snugly. This basically makes it impossible for anybody to enter from the other side unless they somehow destroy the door.

Edit: there’s also this: Doorricade Door Bar

We faced this exact problem. Moved into a new home with a severe gopher problem. Fumigation was ineffective. We cleared the backyard out to bare earth and put hardware cloth in under our soil amendments and new sod.

In my research (UC Davis has a great right up here), there are no effective repellents for gophers. The only effective treatments are exclusion (putting in hardware cloth), poisoning and trapping. I went the trapping method and baited with peanut butter. We've been able to clear gophers out of the backyard and I'm working on hunting down the last (I think) gopher in the front.

One more note: don't waste your time with chicken wire. Gophers can chew through the wire and it'll rust away too quickly to help for long.

Other than perhaps wanting to dilute a bit to get the sulfate down with some beers you can make that water work. My water is fairly similar (though I don't have quite as much sulfate) and my tactic is phosphoric acid to get my pH in line since it purported to be more flavor neutral than lactic. Due to how much I need to add I use 85% phosphoric. https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover-Clean/dp/B06XZSW3QX

I use Bru'n Water for my calculations and after many brews of my mash pH being right on I trust it completely.

I have a yard with 3 maple trees raining helicopters onto a ranch style house. I've used these for 3 years now and they've really helped. Cheap and easy to install. Frost King VX620 6"x20' Plastic Gutter Guard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNNS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-aCOybREPN173

Out where I live, we have moved away from the rebar for light duty applications, such as patios and driveways. Crack control is now done with "kitty fur" and control joints:

https://www.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE

We mix this thoroughly into the concrete, and the fibers help to prevent cracking during the curing process, and afterwards. They are available in many different thicknesses and lengths, depending on the job:

http://usa.sika.com/en/solutions_products/Construction-Products-Services/Concrete/concrete-reinforcing-fibers.html

Call around, and see if this is available in your neck of the woods.

You do know that vent covers are like $20 and would easily fix your problem?

Nope, just masked and used a spray shield. Covering the top glass was the most time consuming.

I saw other people do the hardware on the garage doors and it adds some depth to it. I went with these on amazon and they're magnetic.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QF6DFJQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Serious reply.
I purchased a garage door kit that connects to my android and my wifes iphone.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1CF1S6/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It works out pretty well but does seem a bit stalkerish because i can see when she gets home.

Get some of this "fake" hardware for the garage door.

https://www.amazon.com/Household-Essentials-240-Magnetic-Decorative/dp/B00QF6DFJQ

Here's what your door might look like

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media/vc/3600f80d-b4dc-4b19-a9ed-db4954785a5d._SL300__.jpg

i read where someone used a recessed door sensor and put it inside where the deadbolt locks. when it's locked, the sensor is 'closed' and when unlocked it's 'open'.

like this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089-Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO

I bought these door sensors for my doors coming in from the garage. So now my lights in the stairs turn on whenever the door is opened and stays on for 3 minutes.

Aeotec Recessed Door Sensor Gen5, Invisible Z-Wave Plus security and open / close sensor, Battery powered https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LmIFAbH89XVBC

On top of speakers (can barely see it):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073VRR92F/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Behind speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Deterrent-Activated-Repellent-Environmentally/dp/B0721735K9/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536369076&sr=1-1&keywords=scat

Draped over speaker so he doesn't stand on speaker and bat the blinds over and over and over:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Training-Medium-inches/dp/B0009MZ1L2/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536369124&sr=1-9&keywords=shock+mat

I would look into quikrete 5000 which can be bought a Lowes for $5-6 a bag and just add fiberglass shards for added strength. That's what i plan on doing for my bathroom vanity.

https://www.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491533180&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+fibers

If you're a homeowner, I would recommend going with a recessed sensor. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW089-Recessed/dp/B0151Z49BO

Otherwise, I would probably install the magnet (small piece) on the interior lip of the molding assuming the door has enough clearance to pass, then stick the sensor (big piece) to the door. I'm not really sure how the vibration from the door would affect life and longevity of the the sensor, though.

They sell galvanized steel screen mesh that is suppose to be pet proof but in no more than two days a persistent bird can rip through it. I would make a frame that can go over the window with mesh like This! over a wooden frame like this !

I was surprised at how much these magnetic garage door accents changed the look of my attached garage. There are many different styles to choose from, take seconds to “install” and made my garage look so much better. I bought mine at Lowe’s for 2x this price, so I’d definitely look online.

Have a buddy from high school who is a locksmith, says the easiest and cheapest way to not get a lock that can be easily gotten into is by buying something that's not commonly seen in the US. Dimple key locks aren't that often seen and while they can be picked the aren't as common and what was seen in this video wouldn't be as applicable. Simple idea is to find something the average person has never seen and you'd defeat the average lock pick.

His house has some crazy locks from China or Japan that have like a dozen small holes and the key has the same number of rods that you push in. The idea being that you'd have to put so many picks in at the exact pressures that you wouldn't be able to pick it. He's a big lock enthusiast which I guess is a thing, there's some crazy designs out there that go way beyond the simple pin and tumbler system most of us use. That said there's still little that will stop someone from kicking in a door when it comes to a basic door. It's still just wood on a frame, get some kind of door bar or a security screen.

You might try this It is supposed to allow the tile to float somewhat to prevent popped tiles or cracking.

I was really surprised there were as cheap as they are, but internet-enabling my garage door opener only required a ~85 dollar kit. Seems to work with tons of models, since Chamberlain seems to be the parent brand to a bunch of them.

I can't believe no one has said this yet. It does need a HUB though...

I'm using ecolink sensors, thinking of buying these. I just don't ever want to have to fuss with changing out batteries ever again, whether 1 month of 5 months or a year later. Just want to wire them and be done with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0151Z49BO

I had similar issue with old style "fluted" casing. I went with these traditional sensors. https://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Invisible-security-Battery-powered/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520789443&sr=8-3&keywords=aeon+door+sensor

This is the product link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

And here's some pictures from my last batch
http://imgur.com/a/8kHaj

Can i just get some normal concrete from a big box store and mix in glass fibers?

Im considering this for the concrete:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-ProFinish-Crack-Resistant-80-lb-High-Strength-Concrete-Mix/3026899
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODWAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my fibers

Traction tape

My only recommendation at this point would be to get some of these.

Z wave recessed door sensor?

Half the cost at Monoprice.

recesses door sensor is my recomendation

http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089--Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1462661137&sr=8-3&keywords=ZWAVE+DOOR+SENSOR

This is what you need:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_epMlxb1HFWVJB

I "rolled my own" garage door button with a wireless relay.

Baltic birch plywood.

Here is what I buy:
3 mm 1/8" X 12" X 12" Premium Baltic Birch Plywood – B/BB Grade - 45 Flat Sheets By Woodpeckers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013NT3OAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_haTVBbZ6D2P64

Let’s see.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover-Clean/dp/B06XZSW3QX

There we go.

If you don't want visible contact sensors on your door you can also use the Aeon Labs Recessed Door Sensor (ZW089-ZWUS). This requires you to drill a hole in the edge of the door and the door frame.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW089-Recessed/dp/B0151Z49BO

Just as a note to the gutter thing: I got gutter guards. Those screens you put on top. SOOOOOO CLUTCH. no big leaves and stuff. You still have to take a look at your gutters everynow and then, but much much much less.

You can buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover-Clean/dp/B06XZSW3QX

will last you a while (notice it's 85%), so 8.5 times more potent. Acid malt is also not that much more expensive than regular malt, about $2 per pound vs $1 for regular malt and I would usually use 1/2 pound for corrections, so comes to 50c per 5g batch - I don't think it's worth the effort with the sparging.

If its a european frequency there's no chance of it working with a US hub. Period.

why not go with these:

http://www.amazon.com/NYCE-NCZ-3011-HA-ZigBee-Window-Sensor/dp/B00WTE61FI/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465176632&sr=8-3-fkmr1&keywords=zigbee+open+close

they're maybe a little thicker but still very tiny

or this:

http://www.amazon.com/Z-wave-Window-Sensor-rechargeable-battery/dp/B01E0OMQR6/ref=pd_sim_421_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=3143ovC4LML&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR159%2C160_&refRID=01QQHKVCRGTKF7VPY6XC

and this is invisible on a door:

http://www.amazon.com/Recessed-Door-Sensor-ZW089-Aeotec/dp/B0151Z49BO/ref=pd_sim_421_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=31oLnDLu6ZL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR236%2C320_&refRID=01QQHKVCRGTKF7VPY6XC

as is this hinge sensor:

http://www.amazon.com/NYCE-NCZ-3010-2-HA-Door-Hinge-Sensor/dp/B01C3HFAV6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465176766&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=zigbee+open+close+nyce+hinge

A lot of the regular sensors have options for this. I actually haven't done this myself (my door is a bit of a problem for this sort of solution). Here are some I found (not affiliate links):

​

https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Recessed-Invisible-security-Battery/dp/B0151Z49BO

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Attaches-Existing-32563/dp/B01KQDIUAW

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=15268