Reddit mentions: The best cabinet safes

This source that shall remain un-named right now, sent me 150 fake "GG alprazolam bars" advertised as authentic with a stock pick OF authentic GG bars. Well, they were fake and said source got more complaints than mine, but not so many that they couldn't make it right by sending 300 ie 15 boxes/150 blisters of ten authentic PFIZER FOOTBALLS (1MG) in two shipments. This time they all came in non flattened boxes in a much larger box...my god anything coming from the this area from this source is packaged so damn well... 👌😎👌

Opened to see this....

One box opened... Contents:

SEXY UPJOHN 90s. MMMM. 😍

Tested, and absolutely great stuff. The good ol Upjohn 90s I used to get years ago. Ive had the lavender ones, the blue ones, and they've all been great. But I can tell you, these are ABSOLUTELY LEGIT. Hell, they cost $140 or something for SIXTY 1MG FOOTBALLS. From the exact same place. I PAID A LOT less for those bars. So I came out way way way ahead. They made it right. And I have 20 blisters of NEURYL coming 🔥😄🔥

EXPENSIVE AS ALL FUCKING HELL??!! Absolutely. But I'll pay it. I absolutely love these things. If my main source for Roche Double-Dots shipped them in the Blisters like the picture I'd pay more but they told me they come from the loose bottle. So they need to change their pic

I thought I was getting blister packs the first time (from the source that always has legitimate authentic ROCHE™ DOUBLE-DOTs... They ARE 100 percent legit, and have been through thousands of dollars in orders from me personally and I know my klonopin (Different source than the source that has the Neuryl/sending me the xanax. Stay away from their Roche Clonazepam or anyone getting them in the EU) loose or not I've always been happy with my orders with the other vendor. But I LOVE THE BLISTER PACKS and OG boxes for the Neuryl Kpin "BARS" and fuck... I'll overpay. Fuck it... And I'm the type that'll pay extra for that. :shrug: 🤗

Oh, and btw...I almost NEVER sell anything I get from an (three letter source, starts with I) but these Neuryl strips could sell for $50 per blister pack, and I'm not even slightly kidding. I took the local markets temp and that seems to be what I could get. So even though they sell for almost $2/per kpin bar, if I WANTED to, I could sell for a LOT more.

But nope they'll be going in my nice large safe (BTW, for ANYONE looking for a quality safe for a good price that is pretty fucking hard to pick because of their unique keys, PARAGON SAFES! Both my girl and I have one. I have a huge one with a top section and a huge bottom section. Lost both keys though when I was using... So I always need to change the batts before it even warns me for the hell of it.)

Damn... Mine isn't on Amazon anymore but it had hundreds of reviews, 4-4.5 stars so I went for it at like $110 with free prime shipping.

My girl got this one I THINK.

Paragon Lock and Safe Premium .24 CF Drawer Safe for Easy Compact and Sturdy Security https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L4HJ6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A8.ZAbQAWDPAZ

Id have to ask her for the number, but (back when I gave up the control to avoid dependence and it worked. Fuck reddit for wiping that thread out) this fit a LOT of Indian strips back then. Now, she uses if for extra ammo for her Sig and some other stuff like older expensive jewelry handed down to her and such. She only needs a little small guy.

Now, Im not POSITIVE, but I think the ONLY way you can get into one of these is VERY STRONG Rare Earth Magnets. Which DO seem to work. But with how the keys for these are designed, you can't pick it like you can most sentry safe crap.

I've been thinking about getting a new safe, keep this one and just put it in our room, and the new one in the studio... I'd like to step up a bit for my MAIN safe (Maybe a wall safe tbh...this is my house for my life. If we ever move out of MN, for a job opportunity, well... I can always get another safe put in a wall lol) in the studio.

My senior year of college, I lived in a house with 12 other guys. It faced the ocean, had a hot tub, and a huge backyard. You might not have control over those factors, but if you're still looking for housing, go for the biggest outdoor area you can find.

In the back yard, a BBQ, and lots of tables. We built, sanded, and finished our own. We had 3 tables which were consistently used the entire year for games, potlucks, serving drinks, dancing platforms, etc. Get lots of chairs, strong weatherproof ones. We probably destroyed ~30 thrift-store-found chairs in one year just through normal (drunk) use.

A kegerator.

One of these suckers. Cost around $220 when I bought it, and it outlasted some professional audio systems that DJs brought in for house parties. I ended up selling it for $50 less than what I paid when I moved out. On a similar note, get some kind of strobe/laser/club lighting. Doesn't have to be too exotic, but it's cool to have when you're throwing a party. Fog machine was cool too but broke after 2 parties.

We had a trampoline for a few weeks but some girl broke her arm on it, no bueno. A couple days later, our landlord came by and said it violated some random clause in our lease, and made us get rid of it.

Don't get cable. Go to the bars to watch sports. Netflix and torrent everything else.

A Nintendo 64 and 4 controllers. Super Smash Bros, Mario Party, Mario Kart. Bitches love Mario Kart.

Someone already said a mini-fridge for your room. That should be a no brainer. Beer or leftovers in the common fridge(s) might as well be considered a charitable donation to the house.

These. Doesn't matter if you have 5 people over or 50 people over. There will always be at least 3 people fucking around with these and leaving hilarious phrases on your fridge.

Get lots of dice and lots of playing cards. They will be needed for drinking games.

Shot glasses, wine glasses, beer mugs, mason jars, et cetera. Go to bevmo or the thrift shop. Our local thrift shop had shot glasses at 65 cents a pop. Get tons of them.

Don't get a wire-mesh trash can, for anywhere in your house. If you can't figure out the incredibly obvious reason for this: barf.

Get a couple boxes of medical exam gloves from Costco. They come in handy for cleaning up the nasty aftermath of a good party.

Also, I feel this should be a no-brainer, but clean your fucking toilet every once in a while. 80% of the houses I went to look like they had a science experiment going on in the bowl. I can't help but feel bad for girls that sit down and pee there. A brush is 5 bucks, a two-pack of toilet bowl cleaner is 3 bucks. It takes 20 seconds to scrub the bowl. Do it every once in a while.

On that note, everyone loves a clean house, girls especially. If you keep your place clean and not run down, you will have nothing to be embarrassed about when you bring a group of girls home from a party for some nightcaps. In fact, it just might make the difference between getting laid vs not.

Get a personal safe for valuables (laptop, passport, cash, medicines like vicodin etc). I got mine 3 years ago and still have it today. It's good to have that layer of protection from randoms, potentially shady roommates, etc.


That's all I can think of as far as material items... What I listed are what turned out to be bare essentials, and our year wouldn't have been the same without em. That being said, don't go out and buy all this shit and not put it to use. We threw a potluck once a month, and a party with >1 keg every 2 weeks or so. Make your pad the one that everyone wants to pregame at. When you have people over often enough, you'll realize what you'll need to keep your friends coming back, and to keep new people coming in.

Edit to add:

Learn woodwork, get some tools and materials, and build a bar.

Get a trash can with a lid in your bathroom, for the ladies.

Decorate your house for the holidays. No one really ever did (presumably because the entire town was so poor), but chipping in a few bucks a person at our house made for some pretty cool decorations. They didn't last long but they made the holiday parties cool.

Posters for your living room and bedrooms.

Coffee table books.

Credit freezes are permanent until lifted. And OP definitely wants freezes, not the weaker "fraud alerts". (With just a fraud alert, businesses and banks can still issue and offer services, they are just supposed to do extra verification. A freeze stops it altogether unless you unfreeze your reports.)

Here's a quick guide. I'm making it kind of general to anyone so that I can copy/paste it in the future:

• First and foremost, report any stolen credit cards or missing checks to their respective banks or issuers.
  
  
• As immediately as possible, place freezes with each of the following Credit Reporting Agencies (the "Big 3" plus 1):
  Experian Security Freeze
  Equifax Security Freeze
  TransUnion Security Freeze
  Innovis Security Freeze
  Depending on your state, these may be free for everyone, or may only be free for identity theft victims. If it's free in your state, or if you don't mind paying for immediate peace of mind, then place the freezes online and skip to the next bullet point. If you can't afford to pay, but your state makes it free for identity theft victims, place a fraud alert immediately online (free, and unlike a freeze you only have to do it with one agency, they will report it to the others), then file an identity theft affadavit and police report (info below) and then come back and file your free freezes (you will need to mail them in with copies of your documentation).
  
  
• Next, freeze ChexSystems (so nobody can open a bank account, at most places, in your name):
  ChexSystems Security Freeze
  
  
• Also, opt-out of pre-screened credit offers from coming to you in the mail:
  OptOutPrescreen
  
  
• After all your freezes, create an identity theft affidavit and file a police report. You can file your affidavit online with the FTC. When you are finished, save your complaint reference number, and click "Click here to get your completed FTC Identity Theft Affidavit". Make sure to save a copy and print it.
  Then, file your police report. Bring your filled out affidavit, a form of government issued ID, proof of address, and a copy of the FTC memo to law enforcement with you.
  If you haven't signed the affidavit yet, bring your affadavit to a notary public to have notarized. Many banks offer notary services for free. DO NOT sign the affadavit until instructed to do so by the notary public! They must witness your signature! Now you will have a notarized identity theft affadavit along with the police report. Together these two documents make up your "Identity Theft Report", and will be the basis for any future disputes.
  Resources:
  FTC.gov Identity Theft Affidavit (.pdf)
  If you don't want to file online with the FTC, you can print this blank affidavit and fill it out.
  FTC.gov Identity Theft Guide (.pdf)
  There are sample documents at the end of the identity theft guide, including a blank identity theft affadavit, and also sample dispute letters.
  
  
• File a Form 14039, Identity Theft Affadavit with the IRS. Read it, fill it out, sign and mail it. Then continue to file and pay your taxes like usual.
  
  
• Pull a copy of your credit report to look for newly opened accounts. You will need to dispute fraudulent accounts with both the credit reporting agency, and with the fraud department of the bank or lender where the accounts were opened. You should also look for recent credit inquiries that you didn't initiate (signs of attempted fraud), and check to make sure that the only addresses being reported on your credit report are your actual address (thieves will open accounts using addresses they control, or try and change the address for your existing accounts to one they control). Dispute any fraudulent inquiries or addresses. You can get copies of your reports for free via www.annualcreditreport.com, or through a credit monitoring service (read below).
  
  
• You should also consider signing up for a credit monitoring service that will let you have daily report pulls, and keep it signed up for at least a couple of months (preferably a year). If you have AmEx, I would sign up for CreditSecure Unlimited, otherwise any service that has 3 bureau monitoring that has alerts is fine, such as USAA CreditCheck Monitoring Premium. You placed freezes, so if nothing comes up in the next couple of months, it probably never will. If you can't afford a paid service, consider signing up for Credit Sesame (uses Experian), CreditKarma (uses TransUnion), and Quizzle (uses Equifax). It's a pain in the ass to have to manage three logins and look out for alerts from different places, but it's your only (long term) free route.
  
  
• If you want to reduce the amount of personal information about you available online, use a service like SafeShepherd. You can cancel after a couple of months, because once they've done the heavy lifting of opting you out of databases, you probably don't need them anymore.
  
  
• While you are at it, put all of your phone numbers on the Do Not Call Registry if they aren't already. You can verify online if you aren't sure.
  
  
• Keep an eye on your accounts. Check your recent transactions frequently. Set up SMS alerts with your bank and credit cards for things like "address changes", "failed log-in attempts", and/or "suspicious activity" so that you can be notified immediately.
  
  
• If you need to mail anything, send all mail certified, return reciept requested, and make a note to yourself of what you sent along with the certified mailing number. It is important to have a paper trail for documents, and certified mail is the gold standard for sending legal correspondence. Send copies of original documents if possible, but if you need to send original documents keep copies of them for yourself (write brief notes like the Certified Mail #'s on the copies, so that you don't lose that information). When you get back the green signature receipt cards, attach them to your copies of what you sent.
  
  
• Change your passwords, and use two-factor authentication (2FA) for any accounts that support it. Especially Email and Banking services. Gmail, Bank of America, Yahoo!, Facebook, Twitter, and many other services support two factor authentication. You can find a whole list at twofactorauth.org. Make sure to print out backup codes (if applicable), and keep the backup codes in a safe location such as a fireproof safe. Two factor authentication will keep anyone who gets your password from being able to log in, but if you don't have your backup codes and you lose your phone or device, you'll be locked out too!
  
  
• Immediately dispute fraudulent activity as soon as you learn of it. Dispute debt collection notices within 30 days (to protect your rights under FDCPA), and send all disputes via certified mail, return receipt requested.
  
  
• Protect your information more carefully in the future. Keep important identification and sensitive documents on your person at all times when they are not in a secure place (a locked car is not a secure place). If you don't have a safe deposit box you should invest in a safe (preferably a fire resistant RSC-rated safe, but any cheap locking fire safe is better than nothing) to store your documents in at home, and only take them out for as little time as is absolutely necessary. Don't carry your social security card in your purse or wallet.
  
  FYI OP: If you had a passport or passport card, those are considered a "List A" document, and you could have presented just that with your I9, without needing to provide your birth certificate or social security card. You should use those in the future. Although, if you lost your passport you would still need to report them as missing or stolen.
  
  edit: Thanks for the gold! I've also cleaned it up a bit and added it to the wiki, so it'll appear in the index list at some point: /r/personalfinance/wiki/identity_theft

Okay I have a few things I think would be good to have. First of all target sells these amazing sheet sets. They're inexpensive and they last a long time. Whether you're dorming or not its good to have one of these. Do yourself a favor and get one of these and maybe one of these as well so you're not fighting over plugs. I see you play some instruments so its good to have some of these. Do yourself a favor and get one of these but this one may be better for you. This would be great for all your laundry and accessories. And last but not least this is an amazing desk to have for your computer and books (plus its free shipping :D).

If I win I'd love this and this

Would you like a falafel with that?

This item would be a wonderful addition to my school supplies. It would be meant for relaxing after a long day of studying for my final Potions exam, of course.

This item would be perfect for helping to clean off Seamus Finnigan in our Transfiguration class. He's always getting himself blown up.. OR...This item because they also have bristles and are good for cleaning up bugs. Absolutely perfect for Herbology!

This would be perfect to bring for warmth when sending out post in the winter. I mustn't forget my owl!

Something to help me study for my Care of Magical Creatures class. Don't know what I'd do without it. But surely this would help me at least carry such items since I'd have many to drag around from class to class.

A final thing that would help with my magic school endeavors, a secret place to hide Neville's toad, Trevor. (Or to hide my student-illegal potions and whatnot :P).

This is what I use for a P-09 Suppressor Ready with that same light. Fits with plenty of extra space for mags.

It was less expensive when I bought it but I also liked that it fits perfectly in my nightstand, like it was custom fit. Just got lucky I guess.

Otherwise I like that it's mechanical, no electronic parts that could fail or batteries that could die.

I'm also a fan of the Vaultek biometric safes, but none of those would fit in my nightstand when I was looking to make my original purchase.

Good luck!

V-Line Slide-Away Security Safe, Semi-Flat Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0100WUX6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NxvRCbF80MNNB

Fistly, you need to secure your medications so your family cannot get to them!

If you don't have one already invest in a safe. I particularly like this one by Honeywell. Bonus points if you can mount it to the floor so your family can't pick it up and run off with it.

It's cheap and there's no breaking into it, trust me, I've tried in the past when I had it for my meds and my ex-boyfriend had the key.

Next, keep the key to yourself. My best advice for hiding it is find a big item that never moves in the house like bookcase. Tape the keys to the wall behind the bookcase if you have to. It's probably the best hiding spot for them. Or better yet leave the keys at a friends house.

Secondly, In addition to the actual safe or in lieu of it get a diverson safe.

After that's all squared away, go ahead and talk to your doctor. If you're already taking half your script, tell him to put you on a taper plan. You don't even have to mention that your family is taking half of your script. Just say, "I wanna get down to {Xdose you're really used to} and would like your help in doing so."

Finally, tell your family that your doctor is going to cut you off and you're starting a taper and therefore have no medication to spare.

That's the first milestone. After you've stopped your mother from bleeding you for your medication, and stabilize the situation, then you can begin to think about getting off the drugs entirely.

Does that help at all? I hope it helps!

Holes in the bottom? I don't know what you mean. To put a bolt through a hole in the bottom of a fire safe, and then bolt it to some other surface, wouldn't the holes have to go all the way through the bottom of the safe, and you'd put the bolts in while the safe was open, from the inside? And then the bolts protrude out the bottom, and you put that length through whatever you're bolting the safe to, and then finally the nuts on the other side of that?

I might be wrong on the placement and depth of these holes, but if that's the way your fire safe is laid out, you might want to get another one. Your safe shouldn't have gaping holes in it. Definitely not your fire safe, meant to keep things safe from fire. Multiple holes in your safe seems like it'd make a better furnace.

Edit: I think the difference is, I'm thinking of something that looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-HD4100CG-Fire-Safe-Waterproof-File/dp/B00GE57DFK

And you're talking about something more like this:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/First-Alert-.94-Cu.-Ft.-Bolt-Down-Combination-Waterproof-and-Fire-Resistant-Safe-with-Ready-Seal-Technology/21607723

Are you buying this to secure items from theft or mainly protection from fire/floods/etc.

How much are you looking to spend? How much fire protection is needed? Will you need fast access to the contents?

Location of the safe is also important when considering a purchase. My handgun safe, for example, is fire resistant to 1700F for an hour and waterproof. Average house fire temperature is something like 1100-1300F, not hot enough to melt my safe. BUT if you place it in the basement the accumulated material/embers are going to act like an oven and it might get hot enough to melt it. Even if the safe itself doesn't melt can your hard drives and documents withstand 1000F? Make copies of everything important and keep off-site backups.

My small safe

I also dislike anything battery operated and prefer mechanical locks. Personal preference but I feel like there is less chance for failure of the mechanism as long as you buy something of decent quality.

Lastly, if you are expecting the safe to protect from theft BOLT IT DOWN. Anything sub 300lb is easy to carry off with a hand dolly. I would recommend a minimum 600lb safe if you don't want to bolt down.

Biometric safes are shit and easily cracked. Electronic locks are unreliable. You want something with a mechanical lock either with a key or a combo. I"m not sure if that exists in a small dedicated pistol safe so you might just want to get one of the lockable safes from lowes or home depot that can be bolted to the floor. As a bonus you can put important documents (Social Security Cards, Birth Certificates, Passports) and any other random valuables you have. It's going to be way more secure than any cheap gun safe option.

Something like this
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SentrySafe-1-19-cu-ft-Combination-Lock-Commercial-Residential-Floor-Safe/999919258

or this

https://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-SFW123DSB-Combination-Fire-Safe-Medium/dp/B005P12F2K/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1498070615&sr=8-12&keywords=hotel+safe

Is going to be way way more secure than any basic pistol safe and I lknow it sounds expensive but GunVaults are going for $100
http://www.gunvault.com/gun-safes/minivault.html/

As a bonus the small Lowes safe doesn't scream "HEY I HAVE A GUN IN HERE" like the pistol safe does.

I feel bad for you OP, but you really should have secured better.

I have a 1.x cubic foot safe (similar to this) that is bolted to the floor with about $15 worth of anchors & bolts from Lowes (bolted through the inside of the safe). I bought it for protecting document & valuables from fire & theft. While it might be small enough to carry it away (it's about 100lbs), bolting it down prevents that, and there is no way it will be pried out (seriously it would probably take a stick of dynamite to force it out).

It sound like overkill, but for $200 & a couple hours work it is absolutely worth alot of piece of mind. Honestly if you are going to have thousands of dollars of anything in your house (be it jewelry/drugs/cash/etc), shouldn't it be secure?

Some of the things I'll list are pricey. Or they seem that way to me.

Fire safe - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000SHRKJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1377778385&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX110_SY165

Fire extinguisher - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B001ACOZQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1377778675&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165

And I don't know the rules over there, but make sure you have working smoke alarms.

• batteries
  
• candles
  
• torch/flashlight
  
• matches/lighter
  
  If you don't have air conditioning, perhaps buy some fans.
  
  
• curtains
  
• bed linen
  
• cleaning supplies (or make your own! Plenty of tutorials out there. Vinegar is fantastic stuff)
  
• broom
  
• vacuum
  
• neat boxes for storage
  
• kettle
  
• toilet bowl brush
  
• laundry basket
  
  I'm blanking on other things. Stuff that I either already saw listed or not. I'm a wee bit tired right now. Hope this helps a bit and I wish you the best on your move.
  

1. If I'm going to be drinking wine at school, I should really upgrade my tastes from "Boxed Franzia, on sale"!
   
   
2. This is pretty much a robot broom. I'm not sure what could be more magic than that! He would also be my friend and companion, and I bet with a few spells he would be a beloved housepet.
   
   
3. Sounds like I need a new topper!
   
   
4. I'm going to need something to reference all of the crazy new things I'll be learning!
   
   
5. A chest to keep all my things safe from prying hands.
   
   

6. One might also say, a concealer?
   

   
   

   )

I don't do the best record keeping but this is what I do with any documents involving medical, loan, credit and payment history.

I bought one of these

SentrySafe HD4100 Fireproof Safe and Waterproof Safe with Key Lock 0.65 Cubic Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GE57DFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D4p5CbVXGD0QX

Then I got this

Avery 47993 Two-Pocket Folder, 40-Sheet Capacity, Assorted Colors (Box of 25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006HVCHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_96p5CbZ4P2EQE

I took all of one color (blue) and labeled one of them Person 1 credit, person 1 dental, person 1 "year and make of car" and put all the maintenance invoices there. Just repeat till you have a spot to dump all the paperwork for a person. Get another color and repeat for another person.

Things that are joint are a third color, and I have a fourth color for pets. I have folders just dedicated to employement history so if I for whatever reason need to see some pay stubs or documents I signed I should be able to grab the folder and dig there. For me, I think it's fine enough since you rarely need to review those files, you just want to know exactly where to dig when you do.

Congrats! When we moved into our home we got this one I believe: https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-2013F-Water-Protector/dp/B000MPMEZ2/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=first+alert+fire+water+safe&qid=1558365343&s=gateway&sr=8-10 has worked well so far, the latch is very strong, but I think the keys are a weak point on all these types of safes. I just leave ours unlocked honestly and just use it in case of fire. It has plenty of space to hold all our documents, passports, checkbooks, debit cards, birth certificates, whatever. One thing to note is that waterproof safes can get moldy. To solve that, We also put in an Eva Dry: https://www.amazon.com/Improved-Eva-dry-333-Renewable-Dehumidifier/dp/B000H0XFCS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dehumidifier+plug+in&qid=1558365429&s=gateway&sr=8-3 which works amazing. Just take it out every few months and plug it in for a couple hours and it's ready to go back in and keep everything dry.

I do not trust you, faggot. Someone needs to buy a safe like this
https://www.amazon.com/Safstar-Digital-Electronic-Safe-Box/dp/B01AL23IIW
Then they program it with a code. They must engrave something on it for proof it is the same safe box. The safe box will then be sent to OP, open. OP must live stream himself placing the key inside the safe box and closing it. Mods should receive the code for when it hits 25k.

Buy a laptop lock! Awesome for the library. I have one like this. For the dorm I only had small things like jewelry and my passport, etc. so I got this safe. Its cord wraps around the post of your bed. It's not impenetrable by any means but it definitely deters theft. In my dorm we all ended up trusting each other so I didn't worry, but theft does happen!

get yourself a small fire safe for $50 like this and keep it tucked away in a drawer or under a bed.

(fireproof is important because it helps keep things air-tight)

if anyone asks what is in it, just say your parents gave it to you for your paperwork (checkbook, passport, birth certificate, SS card, etc...) and you'll be fine.

Side note - feel free to PM me if you are looking for a small custom rig for college! I have some for-sale threads on /r/entexchange :-)

I keep all of mine in a gun safe by made by sentry safe. Mainly because I own guns as well. I know sentry safe makes smaller safes built more towards fire and floods. I have my gun safe bolted down to prevent theft. Im more concerned about fire as well as I live in a pretty safe area (I know anything can happen though).

Here is a smaller one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005P12F2K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1377531457&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

And here is one similar to mine: http://m.academy.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_10051_29463_-1

Congratulations!! You keep mentioning that you bought a nest for your new home. What the hell is a nest? Like a bird's nest?

Do you guys have your fireproof box yet? My parents house burned down when they were newlyweds & they've been really careful about keeping important documents in the fireproof box ever since. Seems like a smart idea. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GE57DFK?keywords=fireproof%20box&qid=1453866133&ref_=sr_1_3&s=instant-video&sr=8-3

This has to be the lamest item listed lol but it would be wonderful. A fireproof safe. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LJOX94/ref=cm_sw_r_an_am_ap_am_us?ie=UTF8

I'm going to assume you're living in a dorm. Dorm living can be a real beast, especially if you're on a floor where you share a bathroom. Things that can make it much more comfortable:

• a mattress pad for your hard-as-a-rock dorm mattress and some XL Twin sheets
  
• a shower caddy and some cheapo shower shoes
  
• a lock box
  
• if you're allowed to have appliances, a mini fridge is super rad
  
• a [coffee pot] (http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DCM18S-Personal-Coffeemaker/dp/B00005MF9C/)

It really depends on how much security you are looking for. This Amazon basics safe is perfect for keeping my handguns out of reach of my kids.

Not so good for fire/water/burglary protection though

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Home-Safe-1-80-Cubic/dp/B078K2YPRW/ref=sr_1_26?keywords=sentry+safe&qid=1562896743&s=gateway&sr=8-26

Kinda related: Here's something the wife and I did years ago. I think it's a good tip.

Keep a second wallet, safe somewhere at home. I call them our "Bug Out Wallets."

When you renew your driver's license, pay an extra $10 to also get an ID card. When you get your passport pay the extra $10 to get the Passport ID Card in addition to the actual soft passport. In that same wallet we also keep some uncirculated but active credit cards with no annual fees, and each of them also have several hundred dollars in cash in them.

I bought a small (like $40 off of Amazon) pin code safe and lag bolted it into a bookshelf. That's where we keep the back-up wallets. We also keep various other small things in there. The keys to the firearm cabinet, extra house keys an extra set of car keys and car remote fobs.

It's come in very handy to have all of that important stuff in one area, when needed.

[This] (http://www.amazon.com/Helix-Prescription-Cabinet-White-27050/dp/B004G8HXW0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376367434&sr=8-1&keywords=medicine+lock+box) worked great for me. When asked why you lock up your meds, or why you wont sell them, tell the truth: "Because I need them." Hope this helps

Little kids are curious. Get a small fire safe for $50-60 and lock up your stash and pipes whenever not in use. This one is waterproof so it does a pretty good job containing any odors.

> My question is what problems would I have faced if she had taken my opiods and had gotten into trouble with the law and tried throwing me under the bus?

Anything from "nothing at all" to "charges for distribution of a controlled substance," depending on how credible her word is in the eyes of the investigating officers, and on whether they find corroborating evidence one way or another.

It'd be relatively easy to get ahead of this if it comes up again by storing your controlled meds, in their original containers, inside of something like this or this. For most people, it's overkill, but if you have people in your house who have sticky fingers, the prospect of being caught with an entire lockbox they have to explain away is a strong deterrent.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GE57DFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=115FJDDC488E0&coliid=I18CLOSM0V33X7

Not exactly fort knox but if a house burns down your still good with something like this that costs $65

"You're right: I won't have enough time to break into that safe where you keep your valuables. But if it's not bolted down, I'll take it with me."

I bought one of these at a yard sale (it seemed like a good idea at the time). Because I own nothing valuable that would fit in it, all it contains a cheap 15 lb concrete gargoyle that I bought at a garden center. Some day there's going to be a very pissed off burglar in my town.

Just got this and it's a great little safe, and cheap. Fits two handguns with extra room for mags, etc. It's out of stock right now, though. You can request to be notified when it's back in stock.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078WPCQWK

It's time to start watching out for your stuff.

First, get a cheap fireproof safe. This one is pretty good quality and won't get opened easily. You may need something bigger. Try a second-hand store and ask for lockboxes and fire safes.

Next, make sure you can find your safe if someone steals the whole thing. Also, bicycle chain lock it to something solid.

Then keep your room safe. Buy a lock for the door when you're not there, and get a room alarm for when you ARE there and someone thinks they can sneak in on you.

Last, find a good hiding place for your stuff - even if you have to make one.

Find a place where you can hide your safe where people don't think to look. Does your house have wood floors & carpet? Time to pull up a corner and see if you can loosen (or saw through) a floorboard.

Don't be shy about be shy about modifying your room to get a hidden area!

I have a 6 and 3 yr old. I keep mine in this very basic keypad safe in the nightstand. I wouldn't trust it to stop a thief but it keeps the kids out. The key stays locked up in a different safe and we just use a basic combo easy to unlock real quick. It holds my Shield 9mm, extra magazine, survival knife, couple shotgun shells, the key to the closet with my rifle in it.. And has plenty of space.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009L4HJ6O/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504052043&sr=2&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2972398022&pd_rd_wg=4MciS&pf_rd_r=R1F3FHHY37JYBF7GTWCZ&pf_rd_s=mobile-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=9701&pd_rd_i=B009L4HJ6O&pd_rd_w=XZZ3o&pf_rd_i=stack+on+pds+500&pd_rd_r=PH409ST15MGTNJ5KGTG0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

May I ask what safe you bought?

Was is something cheaper like this? Specs only rate it for 30 minutes at 1550°f.

Or something slightly more expensive and larger like this? Specs slightly better at 1 hour at 1700°f/927°C.

I'd expect it takes longer than 1 hour to completely burn a house down. So I doubt either safe contents would last. But I thought I'd ask to be sure. I own the second safe I linked, but I have it mainly for burglary, flooding, and smaller fires. Not completely burnt down houses.

I don't recommend electronic safes unless you are spending big money, most have a severe venerability to magnet opening the solenoid. Save your money and buy the standard combination dial with the extra key. Unless you don't care about the burglary aspect and only want a safe for fire and flooding. It's less convenient, but means a burglar would have to take longer than 5 seconds to open your safe. All safes are able to be broken into, you just want to slow them down as long as possible.

Edit: According to Google, most house fires seem to only reach 1100°f, so it's probably the length it burns for. Though the added part of a forest fire might increase temperatures. For normal house fires where firefighters can actively try and stop it these safes might stand up to the heat, but with no firefighters combating the house fires as the forest fire was too large they really don't stand a chance. They also recommend storing it on a concrete basement if you have it, and next to any metal that won't burn like a furnace. That way it's getting heat from less areas and will last longer.

Do you happen to have a large gun safe that you could put something like this into?

https://smile.amazon.com/SentrySafe-Water-Resistant-Cubic-HD4100/dp/B00GE57DFK

You might also want to think about getting a safe deposit box at a bank/credit union if it's not a document you need quick access to.

1. Athena Statue She's my matron goddess
   
   
2. Hecate Statue One of my other goddess'
   
   3)[Fireproof box] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W8J75E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=D9PLCHT6MAR8&coliid=I1U89B9XJ9PCBO) Trying to adult
   
   
3. Tardis Wallet Its the best
   
   
4. Amazon kindle tablet thingy I've never had an e-reader

> Safes are attached to where they are.

>Yeah. A safe is bolted to the floor.

This is not true. None of what you just said is true.

https://www.amazon.com/GunVault-SV500-SpeedVault-Handgun-Safe/dp/B006OGNLKA/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1527028963&sr=1-4&keywords=gun+safe

https://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-Water-Extra-Combination-SFW123DSB/dp/B005P12F2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1527028811&sr=1-4&keywords=safe

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Fire-Resistant-Safe-Cubic/dp/B074KDHMKJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1527028811&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=safe&psc=1

I use this simple plastic box. I can change the combination easily. You dont need anything complicated.

KIDDE SAFETY 001844 Lock Magnet Key Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BFY6EU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SU7ADbZ41H9PX

Shared expenses-an app, some poster board with the info written on a way..something in written form (be in an app or otherwise)

Safety deposit box-It's these little things office supply stores sell-

https://smile.amazon.com/SentrySafe-500-FIRE-SAFE-Cubic-Black/dp/B000W8J75E/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1497394889&sr=8-21&keywords=personal+safe

Something like that. There are different styles and sizes and prices. Good place to stash loose cash/valuables you don't want stolen/lost/apartment catches on fire.

If you want to store important documents, you can always purchase a small vault/firebox. I have one for my passport and other crap I don't use everyday but need to keep somewhat safe. It is pretty small and easily portable, and while not the most secure against a determined thief, they are usually rated for fire/flood damage.

Here is the one I use at my apartment.

When I built my house, I had a safe installed, but that is going to be more costly and not something I'd recommend unless you're going to be in one spot long term.

I keep mine in a safe with a manual button lock to keep kids out of my stuff.

Similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Home-Safe-1-52-Cubic/dp/B078K2YPRW

Wall mounted in a closet.

Thinking about moving it to the basement next to the hvac vent near the utility closet. I have a ranch house and the basement stays cool year round, it's completely underground.


Once I get my gun safe (Really Big) I'll probably keep everything in there with my rifles and extra pistols.

> Id quite like to know mine was waterproof and fireproof but still kept in my house. Any cases you can recommend?

Probably your only option is going to be a fire and water rated safe. Something like this provides half hour fire protection. Prices go up from there. I'd probably worry more about securely and redundantly storing your seed words somewhere outside of your home.

I'm pretty sure it's this one from amazon

I have AmazonBasics Desk Drawer Safe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WPCQWK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_ST18Bb1FRSWMN and it would fit your needs.

V-Line Slide-Away Security Safe, Semi-Flat Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0100WUX6I/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_NGZBwbDH47P49

It’s a toss up between 1000 minutes to myself and 1000 books. Those two would go well together too! I could use a [key lock box] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BFY6EU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fT.SAbXMXMS0Y) since my kids like to lock me out of the house

There's a trade off between quick access and security to be had here.

Anything with a simple keypad or basic combination dial is not going to be as secure as as a full on keyed and "classic" safe tumbler lock but the latter is not really going to easily accessible during an emergency.


Keys get lost or left in inconvenient places and fiddly tumblers can easily be fumbled in a panic which is why many quick access pistol safes have simple keypads.


If preventing access by a ten year old is you main concern an not quick access then just buy a sentry fire safe which is keyed and tumbler locked like this....

http://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-SFW123DSB-Combination-Fire-Safe-Medium/dp/B005P12F2K

It's not secure against a burglar by any means but neither would any mini safe be. It would however be far more tamper proof against a child unless they are willing to take a sledge/cold chisel to it.

Something like this, secured and well hidden https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GOYCYU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_E7bAzbMKSVNK0

First, get yourself one of these for the bottom of your closet: http://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-H3300-1-29-Cubic-Foot-Waterproof-Security/dp/B000Z8T7FQ/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1421352197&sr=8-10&keywords=sentry+safe

Put your jewelry and papers into it. In case of fire, you grab that one case and you're good.

It sucks that she moved across the boundaries and used your room. I'm betting there's some embarrassing reason for it that now that you're upset, she's unwilling to share.

I think that you work to get over your fear of people seeing your underwear, and have a frank talk with her where you say something like "Look, I'm not sure why you needed to use my bed. And normally I'm willing to share my things in most cases. But I would appreciate the courtesy of asking before you do, so I can make that choice ok? Are we good?"

You know....like grownups?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BGY6GPG

This is on sale right now for 67 bucks.

This one may be too small
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WPCQWK

I think that having one that looks like this could be a deterrent to your MIL because it looks like business and she's not likely to be able to get into it if she tries. You won't have to worry about a key. I would just keep it out and if she asks about it, you can either say "It's to keep private things safe" or just come right out and say "It's to keep my medication safe." If she's dumb enough to ask why you need to lock up the meds, then I would definitely sit down and talk about how she has an issue, and that she's drug seeking. Tell her that you know there are better medications to try first for occasional migraines than narcotics, that actually stop the migraine vs just treating the pain. Then tell her that there are a lot of treatments for arthritis that are available to her before narcotics and she needs to see an arthritis specialist if her arthritis is so bad that she is drug seeking. I'd talk about this in front of FIL and with your husband so she is having a little intervention going on, of sorts.

I also have chronic pain and on top of that I am lucky enough to have developed severe osteoarthritis very young and I've gone through all the treatments available. We're now looking at stuff like spinal fusion so I can stop moving those bones. Her bitching about her arthritis one night is not the type of arthritis pain that needs.

Did she show signs of drug use before you moved in? Because most people don't just start raiding for pills on a whim, and especially at her age. Also, FIL seemed way too comfortable raiding your drugs for her.

The safe http://www.amazon.com/Stalwart-Electronic-Premium-Digital-Steel/dp/B00FARLXRW

I keep my irreplaceable photos in fireproof safes. I find they fit quite a lot of photos in them. They aren't super cheap but i don't find them unreasonable given that the photos are irreplaceable. I also leave the key in the lock so that if a burglar ever broke in they could open it and realize it's just pictures haha.

Edited to add that i might have provided a link to a very small one and it might be worth checking sizes out at a store.

Here's a link to one but you can find them at Walmart, Target, Staples, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-Resistant-Chest-Cubic-Extra/dp/B000W8J75E/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526673291&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=fire+safe&psc=1

You could consider purchasing a small personal lock box, like this one. It's fairly cheap (cheaper than replacing all your brushes!) and it comes with a tether to keep it in your room.

This is what I have. It's more heavy duty and definitely keeps the smell in because it had a seal. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000LJOX94?pc_redir=1411576492&robot_redir=1#

Well, that is a serious problem. I wasn't aware of that, and I don't think most gun owners are either. Are you saying this kind of thing is easily opened?

Most modern cars have the ability to do remote unlock via Onstar/Starlink/Assist/Bluelink/whatever your manufacturer calls it. You can buy aftermarket OnStar devices -- I don't have experience with them, but you might find out if they can control the locks.

A more low-tech approach might also work.

I am planning on purchasing this model.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005P12F2K/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

I prefer the combination lock as opposed to the keypad lock because I don't want to be reliant on a battery to get to my stuff.

Analog> digital sometimes.

I researched these not too long ago and to sum up what I found: small document firesafes are kind of terrible.

There's a few on Amazon for less than $100 like this one but the reviews are usually not all that great. More importantly, the smaller the file safe the less fireproof it is. Anything you can pick up and move yourself is probably only rated for .5-1.5 hours in a fire.

You need a fire safe. Yes, you do. You need renter's insurance on your apartment, and a fire safe. It's $30. Put in your birth certificate, your passport, any relevant medical documentation, the title to your car, your "good" jewelry, and any cash you might otherwise leave lying around. You're an adult, this is a piece of adult hardware that you need.

Edit: http://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-500-FIRE-SAFE-Cubic-Black/dp/B000W8J75E/ref=pd_cp_hi_1

http://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-SFW123DSB-Combination-Fire-Safe-Medium/dp/B005P12F2K/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1367554489&sr=1-1&keywords=sentrysafe

What do you guys think of this thing?

Or this one?

http://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-SFW123GDC-Cubic-Electronic-Fire-Safe/dp/B005P12C5A/ref=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1367554017&sr=1-13&keywords=sentrysafe

http://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-500-FIRE-SAFE-Cubic-Black/dp/B000W8J75E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1343019007&sr=8-6&keywords=sentrysafe

+

http://www.amazon.com/OPSAK-BARRIER-BAGS-12-5X20-3/dp/B0012RK0LO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1343019024&sr=1-1&keywords=bear+bag

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078K2YPRW/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_1

I use something very similar to this. I don't think they make my exact one anymore. http://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-SFW123DSB-Combination-Fire-Safe-Medium/dp/B005P12F2K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394114822&sr=8-1&keywords=sentry+safes

SentrySafe SFW123DSB 1.23 Cubic Feet Combination Fire-Safe, Medium ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P12F2K/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_YYrgzbAFTF617

Tell me I am guessing right?

If you're just trying to keep a toddler out of it, consider looking into a fireproof box. This one is a decent size, and can be locked and the key put up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GE57DFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YYCwDbPQ5XHGA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005P12F2K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

just as an aside, get a hold of all of your personal documents, birth certificate, ssn card, passport if you have, immunization records if you have, car title, etc., this should no longer be in the hands of your parents. And buy a fireproof box to keep them in, this is what you grab first if your place ever catches fire.

https://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-Resistant-Chest-Cubic-Extra/dp/B000W8J75E

This is probably a dumb question, but in theory could I use one of these to store my handguns (it's obviously too small for a rifle)?

http://www.amazon.ca/SentrySafe-H3300-Fire-Safe-Waterproof-Security/dp/B000Z8T7FQ

Edit: it weighs about 60 pounds empty, so not much risk of someone picking it up and walking off with it.

Albeit small, it's $22 bucks faggots

A medium sized fire safe is like, $50 and you can keep it forever. https://www.amazon.com/SentrySafe-HD4100CG-Fire-Safe-Waterproof-File/dp/B00GE57DFK

I have one for paperwork. Car titles, insurance documents, things like that- but it's easy to slip the non replaceable jewelry in it, as well.

Why is she likely to smash through your room- to destroy things? Steal? Snoop? Why do you livewith her if she does this?

Also, I'd get a REALLY LOUD alarm and give FIL the fob to turn it off, if someone messes with the door. Like this one.

https://www.amazon.com/SABRE-Door-Handle-Alarm-Vibration-Triggered/dp/B01L3R5LXE/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1496774226&sr=1-4&keywords=hotel+door+alarm

It sounds like she LITERALLY can't stand boundaries, and that's what a locked/closed door represents to her- a physical NO. But a little information about why she does this could help come up with a plan. Like, if she's just a snoop, perhaps taking her into your room, under your supervision, and pointing everything out before you go would take the 'fun' out of violating your space?

>Fire safes are made to prevent people from stealing stuff as well as protect from fire for a short amount of time. They should still be bolted down. Anything you're worried about losing in a fire would probably suck just as much to lose to theft and putting it in a safe like this without bolting it down guarantees it goes out the door with any thief.
>
>Edit: You can downvote me all you want. I was just trying to save someone from getting their shit stolen. Even this cheap SentrySafe fire safe comes with a bolt down kit.

I mean, I have several fire safes that I just leave the keys in because they're filled with only important documents. I have a note on one that says Documents Only, check for yourself.

Just pointing out that not all are meant solely to protect stuff from being stolen.

Fire safes are made to prevent people from stealing stuff as well as protect from fire for a short amount of time. They should still be bolted down. Anything you're worried about losing in a fire would probably suck just as much to lose to theft and putting it in a safe like this without bolting it down guarantees it goes out the door with any thief.

Edit: You can downvote me all you want. I was just trying to save someone from getting their shit stolen. Even this cheap SentrySafe fire safe comes with a bolt down kit.