Reddit mentions: The best camera flash brackets

We found 157 Reddit comments discussing the best camera flash brackets. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 60 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

12. Adorama C Shaped Adjustable Bracket with Two Shoes and 2 Tripod Screws

The bracket can slide away from camera.
Adorama C Shaped Adjustable Bracket with Two Shoes and 2 Tripod Screws
Specs:
Height6.3 Inches
Length1.6 Inches
Weight0.25 Pounds
Width5.5 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on camera flash brackets

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where camera flash brackets are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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u/boringstein · 2 pointsr/videography

yeah, i'd do that with any camera tbh and keep the in-camera audio as a back up, just because the pre-amps on consumer cameras tend to generate a lot of hiss.


if that's the case-- if you want sharper video and 60p for slow mo/a better camera for whenever you want to shoot stills, either the a6000 or its cheaper sibling the a5100 are great options. the a6000 is a little easier to use ergonomically because of its hotshoe and viewfinder, and only about $100 more. The a6000 doesnt have a mic jack, but there's a pretty decent shotgun stereo mic that sony makes that plugs directly into the hotshoe to work for about $100.

i'd also definitely recommend going for the native 50mm 1.8 or 35mm 1.8 with OSS in them-- they're not too pricey, especially used, and the stabilization and video AF in both are surprisingly decent.

Panasonic also has some really good options, namely, you can get a used GH2 or G6 for under $300, both of which do great video.



But I'm not going to recommend either of those. Instead, I'm going to recommend the EOS M. You can get one with the pancake 22mm f/2 kit lens for under $300, easily. Yes, it's soft 1080p, but:

>1: it has a mic jack and hotshoe, and with magic lantern, you get pre-amp control, audio levels, and focus peaking to fix its ergonomic failings


>2: its image quality in stills mode is excellent


>3: that leaves you with as much as $250 (even less!!!) for other lenses and or lights + mics + etc


>4: it's mirrorless, so you can adapt basically any mount for it


>5: its the canon menu system, so you're used to it, and if you're shooting for web, soft 1080p is ok-- basically all video on the web is upscaled 720 at best with Youtube's garbage compression & Vimeo's very wise move to default at 720p for streaming. More importantly, canon has great out-of-the-box skin tones, decent 3rd party options for flat profiles, and does skin tones better than anyone (though samsung comes close).

>6: with the amazing 22mm pancake lens, you can literally fit it in your pocket, with a sharp, fast, wide lens. don't underestimate that. I'll never, ever be getting rid of my EOS M for that very reason.

if you're willing to chance it with a no-return ebay listing, this is an insane deal for it at $200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-M-18-0-MP-Digital-Camera-Black-Kit-w-EF-M-STM-22mm-Lens-Extras-/301852333911?hash=item4647cd1757:g:xmcAAOSwUV9WntSq


edit: here's a listing that does offer returns and isnt expiring in 25 minutes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-M-18-0-MP-Digital-Camera-w-EF-M-STM-22mm-Lens-SN401090-Near-Mint/252261698510?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20150604093004%26meid%3D9cc556ced6ae4eb2988415606b2afa1e%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D321987815557&rt=nc


Edit 2:

If you go with the eos M + 22mm at $250, that leaves you with:


-$125 for a solid ravelli video tripod (less if you search CL or ebay)


-this Takstar mic for $30-- it's 90% as good as a Rode/AT, and its actually easier to work with in post (which you'll need to do with in-camera audio) http://www.amazon.com/Takstar-SGC-598-Recording-Microphone-Camcorder/dp/B00E1D2LTA

-this 50mm f/1.8 manual focus lens for approx. $30 http://www.ebay.com/itm/CANON-LENS-EX-50-MM-1-1-8-/262261014275?hash=item3d0ff97f03:g:oHMAAOSwNSxVdKLd (requires a cheap adapter for an additional $16: http://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-AEMFD-Mirror-Camera-Adapter/dp/B00ACYTWFI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453854045&sr=8-2&keywords=ef-m+fd)

this LED camera light for $30: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER%C2%AE-Dimmable-Digital-Camcorder-Panasonic/dp/B004TJ6JH6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854327&sr=8-3&keywords=led+camera+light

This hotshoe extender for $12: http://www.amazon.com/Movo-HVA20-Heavy-Duty-Accessory-Microphones/dp/B00HTWF7MS/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854366&sr=8-11-spons&keywords=hotshoe+extender&psc=1

and finally, this cold-shoe grip + extender, for using this tiny camera on the go with a mic for $30:
http://www.amazon.com/Movo-SVH6-Stabilizing-Extender-Olympus/dp/B00YQD94RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453854193&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=cold+shoe&psc=1

This is a little over $500, so you could drop 1 or 2 of the accessories, but this will do way more for you for your money.

u/oh_lord · 8 pointsr/photography

One of the cool things about lighting is that you can create light with a variety of different things, so you can really play to your budget really well. As others have recommended, if she's serious about learning to light, tell her to check out Strobist, read his tutorials, buy his DVDs, the like. She'll learn a ton and David Hobby is a great writer. His blog is awesome, too.

As for a basic setup, she'll need some sort of light source, a diffuser (or light modifier or some sort), and some way of triggering that light if it's a strobe. That's the very basic setup. Fortunately for her, she can do this for $10, $20, $50, $100, or $1000. Whatever she (you) are willing to spend on it.

If she's trying to do it on the cheap, she can grab a lamp from Ikea (match the type of the bulb with the type of lighting the food will be in. If she's in a kitchen with flurorescent lighting, get a fluroescent lamp), a work light in a clamp, etc, some paper (try tracing paper or wax paper as it's more translucent), and some tape. Stretch the paper out so that it covers a nice area, tape it up to some boxes or something so it stands, and shine the light through it so it's nice and evenly lit. The only thing that affects the "softness" of light is the size of the light source, so the paper is useful for spreading out the focus of the bulb in your lamp and giving you a nice big source. Be creative, move the lamps around, try layering on the paper or removing the paper. Just play with it and see what works. She'll probably need a tripod and a slower shutter speed though, since these lights aren't incredibly bright. Here's another idea using the same equipment for inspiration.

Moving up in the budget, she can start to explore the world of flash photography, and start playing with strobes. These cheap YongNuo Flashes (and there are other models that are great, too) are surprisingly good, reliable, and cheap! I own a few and use them all the time. They come with stands, but she could tape them up around for better angles. Just one of these off camera, or angled properly can make her photoghraphy stunning. Start by placing them off to the side, aimed at the food, and triggering them with the on-camera flash and the strobes set to "optical slave" mode. Tell her to turn down the on-camera flash power to very low as to not give the food a bland look, and just use it to trigger the off-camera flash. Exposure here gets a little more tricky, without going on a huge rant (I could if you want, just let me know), but she should be able to figure it out. Start on low power, and dial it in more and more until she gets the look she's going for. Then, start experimenting and playing more! Use that same paper as before for a quick and dirty diffuser, or, if you want even bigger, softer, light for free, crank the power and shoot it onto the ceiling. The reflection will give her a great, even light source that compliments nearly everything nicely. Play with the built-in diffuser too, bouncing off different things, etc. Shoot, see what works, have fun, and learn. There's a lot to learn, and she'll learn best by just throwing things at the wall and seeing what sticks. Just make sure she's having fun and not stressing too much! If she needs more help, just throw me a question, google around, or post to this forum. Someone will be able to help.

From there, she can keep expanding upwards. More flashes, umbrellas, light stands (make sure she has all the necessary hot-shoe adapters, or umbrella mounts she might need), snoots, grid spots, and other sort of modifiers she might want to get the look she's going for. Worth noting that most things here can be made with some creativity and some crafty DIY work.

Oh, I'd also urge she get a set (or two) of gels for her lights, mainly the CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTG (colour temperature blue) so she can match the colour of her lights to whatever the ambient light is.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any questions or need more help, just let me know. :)

u/inkista · 4 pointsr/fujifilm

>Hey guys! Looking for some advice. Recently got asked to shoot some professional style headshots for a friend and need a crash course in flash photography!

Strobist, Lighting 101. [but not really; if this is TL;DR time, skip down to the bolded text].

>I was gifted a free Nikon SB600,

Damn. Would've been nicer if it'd been an older SB-26 or SB-700. Those have "dumb" optical slave mode (SU-4) built-in.

>... I'm going to want an off-camera remote flash for headshots. Do any of you know if I can achieve that with the SB600?

You can, but all your Fuji camera's hotshoe can tell the SB-600 to do is fire. You'll have to put the SB-600 in M mode, and dial in any changes you want on the back of the flash. But you can use really cheap radio triggers to do this, like the Yongnuo RF-603 II transceivers. A transceiver is a unit that can be either transmitter of receiver in the system.

You put the transmitter on the camera hotshoe to act as "master" and you attach a receiver to the foot (or cable it to the sync port) of the flash to act as off-camera "slave."

You'll also want to get some way to hold the light where you want it, and a way to attach some kind of diffuser/modifier (softbox or umbrella) to make the shadows softer and more flattering, particularly if your subject is female.

This Strobist page in the course shows the basics of putting together a lightstand, umbrella swivel, and umbrella. But, it's assuming you're using a flash without built-in radio triggering (i.e., you have to attach a radio receiver to its foot). Also, instead of an umbrella swivel, you could consider using a bracket. The bracket is bigger and bulkier (especially vs. a compact swivel), but lets you attach studio-strobe modifiers (softboxes, octas, etc.) by the mount ring (in that link, a Bowens S type mount), not just umbrellas.

>Has anyone used the Godox 350FF? It seems to be the highest recommended Flash for off Camera Flash,

Actually, the Godox TT350 is a mini speedlight and is best for on-camera use with a mirrorless camera. But it's underpowered in comparison with a regular speedlight because it only uses 2AA batteries vs. 4xAAs or being plugged into an AC outlet. The reason it gets recommended is it's $85, it does TTL/HSS for Fuji bodies (well, the ones that do HSS, anyway). And you can use it as your radio transmitter, because it has a built-in transceiver.

But. A $110 TT685-F is twice as powerful (one more stop), and if you're using it off-camera, the bigger size/weight doesn't matter as much as if you have it mounted on the camera. There's also the $60 TT600, which doesn't do TTL or HSS on the camera hotshoe, but will do HSS as a radio slave if you use one of the Godox transmitters (e.g., Xpro-F, X2T-F, Flashpoint R2 PRo II-F.)

>how does it compare to the SB600 if you've used both?

I haven't used an SB600, but I have used a 430EX; the Canon counterpart, on my Canon dSLRs. And I've used a TT350-O on my Panasonic GX7. (I have a TT685F for my X100T).

The SB600 will be bigger/heavier, but more slightly powerful. It has a better build quality. But it shares one weaknesses with the TT350: the head only swivels 270º. If you're a Nikon shooter, it has a lot of advantages, but as a Fuji shooter, you can't use any of its TTL/HSS or wireless CLS capabilities. The TT350-F will let you use TTL/HSS and it has radio triggering built-in and the S1/S2 "dumb" optical slave modes (i.e., you can trigger the flash off-camera with any simple flash burst), neither of which the SB-600 has.

>I've also been reading that diffusing the flash is important... I was recommended to get something called the "A Better Bounce Card" to help diffuse it. Anyone use this before? Or have a better alternative

Umbrella is a lot better than the attach-to-a-speedlight "modifiers". You really want something at least 2'-3' across.

The softer shadows with diffusion only come when a light source is relatively large in comparison with the subject. Small bounce cards, little tupperware hats, etc. aren't that much bigger. And don't tend to make the light look that much different from bare direct flash.

If you have to get an on-flash modifier, I recommend van Niekerk's BFT flag, and learning to bounce. Bouncing is where you point the head of the flash at a reflective surface (wall, ceiling, big piece of white foam core, someone's shirt front, etc.) And you use the reflected light as your illumination. The BFT flag will block any light coming directly from the head of the flash from hitting your subject, so the only light used is that reflected from the bounce surface. And that reflection has scattered the light to make it softer.

But the more power you have, the easier it is to do that, because the added distance and scattering of the light will reduce how much of it hits your subject. But the huge advantage with bounce, aside from the diffusion, is that unlike direct flash (where you point the head of the flash straight at your subject), you can choose the direction the light comes from (within the limits of how much the flash head can tilt and swivel).

Just me, but it might be easier to just start with a TT350-F or TT685-F and try bouncing, first, before going with off-camera flash. It'll be easier to figure out if all you have to buy and learn at first is the flash and a $1 sheet of black craft foam and a rubber band. Neil van Niekerk's Tangents website is a great place to learn how to use a flash on-camera, before you go hit the Strobist.

Get into the off-camera stuff when you have a bit more flash exposure and flash/ambient balance experience, can save up a bit more cash for the off-camera bits, and have a better handle on what you'll need.

u/HybridCamRev · 2 pointsr/Filmmakers

/u/zacharius55 - there are other affordable options besides DSLRs and phones - neither of which is purpose-built for filmmaking. Yes, people hang all sorts of accessories on them and make great movies - but you'd probably be better off with a relatively inexpensive, purpose-built cinema camera.

Instead of a compromise still/video camera or a phone, I recommend the [$945.25 1080/60p RAW Blackmagic Micro Cinema Camera] (https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Design-Cinema-Camera-Dynamic/dp/B00WNFK0P0/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A2SYTEIF5THBXJ&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1485952262&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

You'll also need a [$169 5" Lilliput 569 O/P monitor] (https://www.amazon.com/Lilliput-569-Field-Monitor-YPbPr/dp/B00CDKY560//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), plus a [$6.99 cold shoe adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/FOTYRIG-Adapter-Bracket-Monitor-Microphone/dp/B01JP1XYWU//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [$4.08 cold shoe swivel head mount] (https://www.amazon.com/Andoer-Aluminium-Alloy-Camera-Monitor/dp/B00ZUEUVT6//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for the monitor.

As far as lenses go, a [$229.99 Meike 12mm f/2.8] (https://www.amazon.com/Meike-Removeable-Panasonic-Olympus-Mirrorless/dp/B01KV0I7XU//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) [Referral Links] would be a nice, wide affordable prime to get you started.

Both the camera and the Lilliput monitor are powered by the same Canon LP-E6 batteries.

With 13 stops of dynamic range and its ability to record RAW internally, the BMMCC will give you the latitude, color palette and gradability of a much more expensive camera.

Here are a few examples of the image quality it can produce:

Narrative/Experimental

u/HDRgument · 3 pointsr/photography

> would like to go with Yongnuo for the triggers (YN622) and flashes themselves (probably 1 565EX and 1 560).

Good choices. But, you could get a 568EX which supports High-Speed Sync. This would allow you to use flash more effectively outdoors during the day. Otherwise you are limited to the normal sync speed of your camera.

The YN-622 support HSS so you're good there -- if you get a 568EX.

> I have no idea what to go with for the stands (Maybe Manfrotto Nano or Lumopro Compact?)

Both of those lightstands are great. I've actually found generic ones that I'm somewhat happy with: http://www.amazon.com/Ravelli-ALS-Cushioned-Included-Equipment/dp/B003TM600U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410198056&sr=1-1&keywords=ravelli+heavy+duty+light+stand

> swivels

What's important with an adapter is that it's full-metal -- none of this plastic housing or cold-shoe bullshit. I have these and they're fine: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004EGE39A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> umbrellas

Are you sure you want to go with umbrellas? A softbox may be better for on-location work, especially without an assistant (outdoors, with an umbrella and no assistant, if it's windy, you're pretty much screwed). You may want to get one umbrella and one softbox, that way you can switch them between key and fill in two light setups, and pick whichever one is more appropriate for one light setups.

If you do want to go with umbrellas, size is the primary consideration. ~45" is probably a happy medium for on-location. I have had some ~30" umbrellas and found the light quality to be not so great. And I have a ~60" that I love, but rarely take on location unless I know I will have a lot of room indoors (60" umbrella is a big fail outdoors, even in low wind) and not have to move around a lot.

Another thing is the ribs -- aluminum ribbed umbrellas may wear out quicker. However, I don't think that umbrellas are a "buy it for life" thing at all and I've never been concerned about build quality in my umbrellas.

I use and recommend Impact convertible umbrellas.

If you want a softbox, I can recommend Westscott Apollo 28" as a good on-location softbox for hot shoe flash.

> I'm also not sure what modifiers to pick up for using an on-camera flash, like a softbox (LumiQuest Softbox or Lastolite Ezybox?), the Gary Fong Lightsphere that everyone has, or something else (LumiQuest Quik Bounce?).

Modifiers for on-camera flash don't actually do much. A bounce card of some kind is nice to offer catchlights when the light is bounced but that's about it. Save the money that you would have spent on on-camera modifiers and buy Neil Van Nierk's books and some beer instead.

> I will put some good rechargeable batteries (Eneloops?) into my budget

Good.

> is there anything else that I'm missing?

Since I do a lot of run-and-gun type work at festivals and conventions (often conventions have very high ceilings and bouncing the flash is difficult) as well, one thing that is very helpful to me is my painter's pole and a Kacey Pole Adapter ( http://www.amazon.com/Kacey-Enterprises-Pole-Adapter-Extension/dp/B00ANZVFME/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410198878&sr=1-1&keywords=kacey+pole+adapter ).

Check out Syl Arena's blog here: http://pixsylated.com/blog/longarm-and-metalhead/

While it's ideal to have an assistant, I often use the pole solo. By simply holding the painters pole as if it were a walking stick (maybe you could say a wizard's staff at the con), with the end on the ground, in one hand and shooting with the camera in the other hand. In order to shoot like this, you will generally want to use a shorter focal length to get directionality and softness in the light. I try to shoot 5 feet away from the subject with this setup. The smaller shoot-through umbrellas are great here because placement is less precise. But you could use the 28" softbox as well.

u/NotFamousButAMA · 2 pointsr/photography

Yes, definitely! Lighting does not need to be crazy expensive unless you want it to be crazy expensive. (That 50 is going to be your best friend when you're starting, a fixed focal length gives you one less thing to worry about while you're fussing with lights. It's also a super sharp lens).

First, you're going to need a flash. Off-camera capabilities are ideal, and Canon has some amazing speedlites (that also come at an amazingly high price). I recommend this one. it's affordable, it has in-flash metering, and it comes with wireless capabilities. (your camera also has in-camera wireless flash triggering, but you need a flash that's compatible)

Next, a light modifier. bare flash is terrible for portraits, especially single-subject portrait work. What I personally would recommend (this is totally subjective), is a light stand with a shoot-through umbrella mount and a reflector. Umbrellas are cheap (I bought a ProMaster shoot-through umbrella for like $15 about a month ago, it works great), a light stand or two may run you about 40 bucks or so, and a bracket that fits your flash and umbrella on your stand is cheap (example ).

Reflectors can be found anywhere, Neewer makes generally cheap stuff (kinda crappy sometimes imo), but you don't need an expensive one. 20-30 bucks is good enough.

For the techniques and lighting methods you can do with a one-flash, one-reflector setup, a quick google search can give you some great ideas. However I recommend reading Strobist. Super good insight, some gear picks (that are more expensive), and some tried and true lighting methods to give you awesome results.

My biggest recommendation is to use the tried and true methods as a jumping-off point, and start playing around with your setup. You can do incredible things with one flash and one reflector, and while it can be intimidating at first, it can only get easier. Good luck!

u/NHarvey3DK · 1 pointr/Panasonic_G80_G85

Congrats!

I'm also pretty new to it. Take my lessons learned:

Microphones:

Return the Videomic pro and get the Videomic Pro+. The differences are that the mic turns on/off automatically and it has a usb rechargeable battery.

Having to carry extra batteries are dumb. Especially when they're not rechargeable. Also, you WILL forget to turn the mic on, then your whole shot is ruined because NO SOUND will be recorded. Trust me.
You probably noticed that you can't look in the viewfinder because of the videomic. This Movo 4" bar will fix that.


Batteries:


Speaking of extra batteries, you're going to want more. There are two types: cheap non-decoded, cheap decoded, and OEM.

Non-decoded means you won't know how much battery you have left in the camera. Obviously that's dumb. Spend a little more and get decoded. I really like these OAproda 2 pack + charger. No battery lasts as long as the OEM, but it's close enough. Plus, the OAproda charger is much thinner than the others and charges via USB.

SD Cards:

I love these SanDisk Extreme Pro. I purchased the 128gb because I NEVER want to be in a position that I can ever possibly run out of space.

You'll want a way to copy the files to your pc. This Transcend USB 3.0 works amazingly, and it's $9 for a two pack.

Lens:

The kit lens is pretty damn good. But here are the lenses that you'll see people talk about all the time. Depending how new you are in photography/videography, you should know this: we have a crop sensor. It's not the end of the world. A majority of the people don't mind it. But when you're looking at lens sizes, you need to double the number in order to compare it with full frame camera's. But again, not a big deal.

Panasonic 25mm f1.7 - compared to the "nifty fifty" on a full frame (25mm*2=50mm). This lens works aaaaaaamazing in low light / day light / etc. But to get an idea of how 'zoomed in' it is, take your kit lens and rotate it to "25mm". That's how this lens is. Nevertheless, still such an awesome lens.

Panasonic 45-150mm f4.0-5.6 - I just bought this lens from Amazon Warehouse for $100. It's very well built and serves it's purpose (when I want to zoom in on something far away)

Rokinon 12mm f2.0 - Everyone loves this lens, but keep in mind that it does not have autofocus. Is it the worst thing in the world? No. But it's the only drawback so it's worth mentioning. I was doing some night time time lapses last night and man, this sucker was beautiful. It's WIDER than any other lens, so you'll capture more of the image but it DOES NOT have a fisheye effect (which is awesome).

DSLR Video Shooter's G85 guide was wellllll worth the $20. Most of it was pretty elementary, but I did learn so much more and started using about 90% of what he spoke about. Brilliant.

u/GIS-Rockstar · 1 pointr/photography

The cheap video lighting kits are a bit under powered. They're useful for learning tools (mine came with 2 reflector umbrellas and 2 translucent umbrellas, but they're not 100% effective, and might end up bouncing light from around the room into your shot more than just from the surface of the umbrella. Additionally, one light behind one umbrella doesn't really overpower ambient window light the way I imagined it would. I was brand new to it so maybe they work well to fill in shadow, but i think a rig with multiple bulbs will be more effective at providing the controlled, directional light you may be looking for.

I ended up getting a pair of speedlight mounts to use them as off camera flash stands & modifiers which was fun; but since the umbrellas aren't huge, the height of the actual speed light is significantly off center so it's mainly the top half of the umbrella that's providing the most illumination. It's much better than a bare strobe, but I feel like it's not really using the full potential of the entire umbrella's surface to diffuse light. Something like this S-type bracket will hold a speedlight in the center of an octobox or another modifier, and that seems much more effective for strobe photography. It's not much more expensive, so it still pairs well with the light stands from the cheap video lighting kit as an upgrade.

Even as a not super effective intro kit, it's a decent baseline to get you shooting and practicing and figuring out what you'll need to find your shooting style. Kind of like how it's helpful to start with a kit lens before spending hundreds or thousands on a pro level camera/lens combo just to discover that I don't know shit about photography and expensive equipment is a budget overkill.

u/Halo6819 · 2 pointsr/videography

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

u/Whirlmeister · 1 pointr/Vive

Yes, it comes with controllers.

I found some over-ear headphones were uncomfortable because of the headstrap for some people, but the majority of people I've demoed for have had no problems. On-ear headphones may be a better option, and if its just for you the supplied ear buds are actually surprisingly good.

Depending on your room and whether you are happy to screw the lighthouse sensors to the wall you may need some sort of mount.

I was happy to screw the sensor mounts to the wall at home but I picked up

A couple of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wolfcraft-4042000-80mm-Telescopic-Support/dp/B001BWT2PA/ref=sr_1_2

and a couple of these
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MyArmor-Universial-Threaded-Microphone-Motorcycles/dp/B01A6KJDFG/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_2

So I could bring the Vive places with me and demo (without having to screw anything to the wall).

Alternatively if you want to attach the sensors to a bookshelf or similar these are great:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_3

I also ended up getting a 3m HMDI extention and a 3m USB extension because my play area is a few meters from my PC and out of the box you only get 1m cables to the breakout box.

u/d4m1en · 0 pointsr/photography

Artificial lighting is the best and easiest way to make great, professional-looking portraits.

Are you sure you can't afford a speedlite ? You don't need an expensive name-brand one. A basic speedlite is $35. Get two of those, a basic radio control, some flash brackets, one more basic umbrella and you have yourself a portrait lighting kit for $100.

The only limitations will be that this kit won't take heavy use, and the flash won't do TTL (you have to set the power manually, which you want to do for off-camera flash anyway).

Finally, read strobist tutorial and you are now good to go and make great portraits.

u/CreepyCactaur · 6 pointsr/gopro

Just got some stuff in the mail today and finally put together a rig for shooting with my hero 4. Amazon Links Below!

|Gopro Hero 4 Black Gimbal Shooting Rig|

  • Hero 4 Black Edition Here

  • EVO GP-PRO Gimbal Here

  • Viltrox DC-50 5' LCD Monitor Here

  • GoPro Smart Remote Here

  • FOTYRIG 7" Magic Arm Here

  • FOTYRIG Clamp Here

  • 2 Powerextra Monitor Batteries w/ Charger Here

  • BeStableCam Crane Tripod Stand Here

    Any questions, opinions, or ideas for improvement are welcome!

u/Graniteman · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

Yeah, an umbrella is going to be too big to hand hold. If you are shooting insects in the wild my experience is there is a trade off between a big enough diffuser to get good looking light (bigger is better) and something that will be so big you will scare insects, or not be able to precisely control it and accidentally bump the bush or whatever you are next to.

I have these two.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017U0WM8
http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Speedlight-Speedlite-600EX-RT-Panasonica/dp/B003Y322RO
They strap directly to the flash head, so you don't need anything else to attach them. It's not like an umbrella where you need a bracket to hold the umbrella to the flash.

No hood for macro like this. You will be so close to the subject that the hood would actually block light from the flash in some cases.

You may want to start with a flash bracket though. I use a [manfrotto 330B)[http://www.amazon.com/Manfrotto-330B-Bracket-Support-Heads-Black/dp/B001D2CW2I]. It will hold two flash heads but I just use one. The key thing is you need a bracket that lets you position the flash at an angle above the focal point of the lens.

Which reminds me, keep in mind you will probably shoot in manual focus mode. You turn the focus ring to the 1:1 (max) magnification and then move the camera by hand until your subject is in focus. And no matter how you focus, it takes steady hands to keep the very thin focal plane on your subject.

I don't know what your budget is, but if you want the L it's supposed to be nice. I don't know that the IS helps much given that you will be shooting with a flash (that should freeze any hand-shake motion in my opinion). If you might shoot with natural light then the IS would be critical, but I'm not sure how possible it would even be. Flash makes such a HUGE difference for sharpness of the image.

You may want to just get the non-L and if you fall in love with macro you can sell it and buy the L later. Or you may do like me and move toward the extreme 4:1 or 10:1 magnification stuff where the EF lens is useless anyway.

u/burning1rr · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

You can accomplish a lot with a single light.

I like the TT600s, but maybe hold off on buying more gear for now. Try to get good with your current flash before spending more money on gear. When you have experience, you'll have a much better idea of how to spend your money.

Presumably the Flash you have supports optical slave mode. Try using it off-camera; there are good guides to set that up.

If you're going to buy anything, I'd recommend a light stand, an umbrella holder, and an umbrella.

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/Filmmakers

I am trying to do a complete carry-on ultra-lightweight interview kit. So I'm an old guy, and not a big guy. But I wanted something I could single-handedly carry on a plane, on a bus, in a cab, as a pedestrian. It should be no more than two cases and I should be able to carry them in one hand while carrying a personal bag in the other. It had to be everything needed for talking head interviews including lights, camera and sound. That means my setup is much more restrictive than yours, but it works. This effort is based on doing quite a few films in Europe using only what I could carry.

Nothing I could find really made it easy. The biggest problem has been powering options, so I made the decision that it had to be small fixtures that could be used close to the subject with reasonable running time. Everything had to be battery-powered no cables or outboard power supplies were needed.

I bring 3 lights and 3 stands. This light is a fairly soft key, adjustable, 18-watts, built-in rechargeable battery. Then I have three of these very small point-source lights, (also with built-in batteries and they come with a variety of gels). One of these is used as a backlight, another for possible light for a background. Add these for mounting one or two of these Lowel umbrellas. These turn the point-lights into a nice, soft fill. Each of these lights will run 60 minutes or more at full power, much longer if reduced. Also, running time can be extended with a couple of these. I can get nice exposure and shallow depth-of-field at ISO 400 or 800. (Double or quadruple operating time at ISO 1600.)

Amazon has this light case that is checkable and can hold this lightweight Velbon tripod with a fluid head plus three or even four of these Neewer stands plus some gels and a small roll of gaffer tape.

My camera case is a small older one with a Nikon label. It holds my Panasonic GH4 or GH5 with 12-60mm lens plus 3 batteries and a USB-powered charger. There's also room for all the lights, an iPad, and a 4-port USB charger, which charges everything.

And...(are you ready for this?) the sound is in this kit, too. The secret here is the PicoGear PicoMic dual wireless mic system. This thing really does what it claims: two wireless mics with good range and run all day and the whole system goes in your pocket, plus the bonus of no body pack or cables to hide.

I'd appreciate your comments.

u/geekandwife · 2 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS - Light stands - $36

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-Cameras-Canon/dp/B01I09WHLW/ - Speedlight x 2 - $64

https://www.amazon.com/Flash-ChromLives-Light-Stand-Bracket/dp/B07317T52Q/ - Umbrella holder 2 pack - $18

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I - Octobox - $25 (by far my favorite speedlight modifier I own for portraits, you could go cheaper with just an umbrella, but I love my octobox )

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ - Wireless triggers - $16

https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC/ - Shoot though Umbrella - $17 - Can be used in place of the octobox above if you must, but I would get both and use as your fill light

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector - 5 in 1 reflector - $18

Right there is my go to recommendation list for a starting photographer. That gives you an Octobox, 2 stands, 2 lights, a umbrella, remote triggers, and a reflector. All you need to add in is your own sandbags.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Speedlite-Speedlight-Umbrella-Photography/dp/B00LFC50HA is an alternative if you don't want an umbrella

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Portable-Shooting-Speedlight-Speedlite/dp/B00UIT28FI is the last thing I will throw in, I just recently have picked one of these up to use as my super portable kit. Folds up to fit in a pocket, it is big enough that it can be used as a key light or even as a fill.

u/maukka · 1 pointr/flashlight

Glad you like it! I've got three of the slim edge led diffused versions and they're absolutely perfect. Also waiting on the direct led version you bought. I added a couple of these long arms to make them work as great workbench lights.

u/contactgus · 1 pointr/Vive

Yes, those are the third hand poles that I didn't want to spend the money on, I didn't realise that they were not spring loaded. I was also thinking of the marks left by the pressure so I am considering using rubber pads on the feet. I have a pack of these lying around: http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B007J6VKU2
If I remove slippery part I'll be left with 4 thick rubber pads that I can use.

Of course it all depends on whether the poles themselves will be stable enough and I'm not feeling too confident :)

As for the camera mount itself, I bought something like the recommended ones in a local shop but the shop keeper also showed me something like this which might be useful for a temporary solution or for transferring to a seated area where the lighthouse doesn't have to be held up too high (on a shelf or something):

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ

If I do end up using command strips I might use a secondary command strip and somehow tie a leash between it and the main mount. I might do that anyway to have a secondary anchor

u/SoTotallyToby · 3 pointsr/Vive

I got two clamps that will clip to furniture. I have one on a shelf, the other on a curtain rail and they work bloody perfect. Great too if you travel with them and they're very small. Definitely better than having a tripod taking up space!

Only £15 for 2!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=sr_1_cc_7?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1526667294&sr=1-7-catcorr&keywords=dslr+clamp

u/krunchynoodlez · 1 pointr/photography

I recently got a Godox V860ii and am looking into getting an off camera flash setup for it.

What are the benefits of using a S-Type Bracket vs just using swivel mount? One is almost twice the cost of the other, and I'm willing to invest, but is there any other benefit besides the Bowen mount system for the link of the one I put below? Thanks!

Bowens S Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Godox-Bracket-Speedlite-Softbox-Honeycomb/dp/B00JS3MINC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=s+bracket&qid=1565634775&s=electronics&sr=1-2

Swivel Mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JRNNTG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AM5WHBW8CZ8MA&psc=1

u/Solnx · 1 pointr/photography

I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.

A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:

Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting

Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes

AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack

Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?

He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?

u/photography_bot · 2 pointsr/photography

Unanswered question from the previous megathread


Author /u/Solnx - (Permalink)

I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.

A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:

Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting

Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes

AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack

Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?

He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?

u/teehizzlenizzle · 3 pointsr/Beginning_Photography

I would highly recommend the Yongnuo external speedlights! You'll also need wireless flash triggers to shoot with your flash off-camera (made for your camera brand) I personally like to shot through a white umbrella for close up portraits. You can find all of this equipment on Amazon :)


Yongnuo Flash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B3jizbSQH5JC7


White Umbrella: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEX8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K8jizbZE9WMJ8


Flash Adapter for light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m9jizbNDJBSJ6


Light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79jizb8EEAZAT


I can recommend wirelessly flash triggers too! What brand is your camera?

u/ReverserMover · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

Not the other guy, but for $200 or just over, you can get really good images.

What you need:

u/cloudbreaker81 · 1 pointr/Vive

I'm using spring clamp mount. Works very well. Can clip on to all kinds of stuff. Got one on top of a small step ladder and the other on top of a wardrobe door. Have had perfect tracking even though they are at different heights. Cheap as well.

Phot-R Multi-Function Spring Clamp with 1/4" Screw Ball Head for DSLR Cameras https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_utnpxbT586DDH

u/pth · 1 pointr/photography

Do you already have strobes? If so something like this works pretty well. Your tripod will need a very strong head as the weight (and leveraged weight) starts to get large.

I used this, with a pair of off camera strobes (and radio triggers), that I had for other uses. Of course I was not shooting as close as you will be, so your mileage may vary.

u/maxcovergold · 1 pointr/oculus

I was hoping for something less bulky that the following, but it might be the best option at under £5ea:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phot-R-Studio-Multi-Function-Reflector-Cameras/dp/B00MR0VPOQ

u/VRegg · 1 pointr/Vive

If you really want something solid that doesn't take up space you may want to get a floor to ceiling rod support. This is the cheapest I found. https://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-support-cargo-bar-66172.html Though you will likely want to paint them another color to match the room.

And clamps like this https://www.amazon.com/Anwenk-Ball-Head-Mount-Adapter/dp/B06XQY99DR/

u/problypropylene · 1 pointr/photocritique

Excellent. Make sure to get some kind of adjustable umbrella mounts like these to go with your light stands... They work great on tripods as well if you need stability but not height. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07317T52Q?psc=1

u/jgfoto · 0 pointsr/AskPhotography

You could set your self up pretty good with $500. I have a couple suggestions, but the first would be to get yourself a cheap prime lens first. Either a 50mm 1.8 or a 24mm pancake. Both are around $100 and would still leave quite a bit in your budget. So, saying you go ahead and do that:


  • You could get a couple of Yongnuo 560 IV
    You could choose to fire then optically with your Canon speed lite or get one of these
  • Grab a few of these to hold your flashes
  • And a few of theseto stand them up
  • In terms of modifiers you have a few options. You could go with cheap umbrellas which are fine. Or you could get some small soft boxes. I say just grab a huge modifier. As big as you can get. It's gonna really depends on how much space you have. check this out

    That's a decent, portable, and effective setup with two lenses for right about $500.

    Since your using someone else's studio lugging equipment is gonna be a pain. That's why I think speed lights is the way to go. But if you don't mind, look into a monolight kit. For your portraits I really do think you'll like what you get from a fast prime lens.
u/yesimalex · 2 pointsr/photography

I just purchased 5 triggers, 2 stands, 2 umbrella mounts, and 2 Brollyboxes they look like the softlighter mentioned below. I spent about 145 total. I played with it earlier today these are straight out of the camera, if that isn't obvious hahaha.

Hey this is all "Free super saver shipping" because shipping sucks.

u/Hilarious1 · 2 pointsr/Vive

Tension bars big enough to run floor-ceiling, and clamps with the 1/4 20 camera mount thread on them.

Example: 2x these and 2x these. Shop around for better deals. Look for mention of "ball head" as it us a very simple but effective method for articulation.

u/Moratamor · 5 pointsr/oculus

I use this clamp on a door frame. It's great as it holds well, leaves no marks, and when I'm done I just move it back to the top of my monitor.

u/RoadRunner_1024 · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

These are also good, i use one for my 3rd lighthouse (different play space) have it clamped to my lamp


https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07GZ1D4BB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/NYJITH · 5 pointsr/Vive

I can’t link the amazon pages right now, but I got these shower rods that go floor to ceiling and ball camera type mount with a clasp on rods. Takes up less floor space and pretty sturdy.

Edit:

Rods

mount

u/CrateDane · 1 pointr/virtualreality

You can get clamps with ball joints, easier to work with and still fairly affordable. Like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=pe_3187911_185740111_TE_item

u/davehaslanded · 1 pointr/oculus

Sure can.
Amazon U.K: Phot-R 53 cm Studio Goose Neck Clip Clamp and 1/4-Inch Stud Spigot with Flexible Flex Arm Photography Reflectors - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVF1UMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3MeBybYQJZDEF

u/thelogic · 1 pointr/photography

Will this swivel and this adapter allow me to connect a Yongnuo560iv to a Dolica Tripod?


Also, does anyone have any better quality swivel recommendations?

u/Ndgtr · 1 pointr/H3VR

I'll give you a tip:

Extendable shower rods (or some other extendable pole of some kind), and something like these.

Wedge the shower poles between floor and ceiling, screw the base stations into the clamps, then fasten them onto the poles and adjust as required.

I've been using this method for over a month now and it works a treat.

 

I don't know how I found this post from a week ago either.

u/Nye · 3 pointsr/Vive

Had a similar problem over the summer, and my solution was these beauties: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/

Depending on what country you're in, you might still be able to get something from Amazon for tomorrow.

u/Mega__Maniac · 2 pointsr/Vive

Yea, I have one of the smallest gorillapods and used to use it for mounting a lighthouse. Obviously if you can get one of the legs wrapped around something then so much the better.

But if its going to become a common thing, get these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They happily clip onto shelves, doors, curtain rails etc and provide a good grip, I have no fear of them falling.

u/nrosko · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

with these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 althogh i would gues i might need a better clamp than the clips if they are heavy.

u/ToshiYamioka · 1 pointr/videography

Alright so here's a picture of what I have on my camera

Basically you need 3 pieces:

u/whatisfailure · 1 pointr/photography

I bought this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TYDBYQ/
and there's nothing to screw in. It looks like there's supposed to be a larger piece that fits into the flash bracket.

u/smushkan · 2 pointsr/videography

The D5100 is not a great choice for video, as it doesn't allow you to adjust aperture while shooting video which makes it a real pain getting your exposure correct.

For ~$100 more than the SX60HS you could grab a Panasonic G7 which also supports 4k and has a whole lot more video-focused features; and also there's quite a range of relatively inexpensive M43 glass that costs a lot less than Nikon mount lenses.

Generally if you're shooting with DSLR or mirrorless you'll want an external audio solution. For example, you could combine whatever camera you end up buying with an inexpensive recorder such as a Zoom H1. You can then use a Attenuating cable with headphone splitter to allow you to route the audio from the recorder into the camera for synchronised recording while also allowing you to listen to the audio with headphones.

You can connect the camera, microphone, and recorder together using a cold shoe extender and a 1/4"-20 screw to cold shoe adapter for the audio recorder.

Given that it sounds like you'll be recording in very noisy environments anyway, I wouldn't worry too much about handling noise, especially if you mount whatever microphone you get in a suspension mount.

u/Hasuto · 1 pointr/Vive

Tripods usually have one large screw on the top and you attach a separate tripod head to that with a smaller screw (same as on a camera or the base stations).

https://www.adorama.com/alc/0008168/article/Buying-Guide-Tripod-Heads

You can get a small and cheap head and it will let you adjust the angle of the base station. (Like thishttps://www.amazon.com/Professional-Mini-Ball-Camera-Mount/dp/B000L47AHG) or you can get a holder for a light source, often called umbrella stand. (Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TARION-H-Shape-Umbrella-Softbox-Adjustable/dp/B01HHW7BAK/ref=sr_1_8?). I use a product similar to that umbrella holder for my light houses.

u/Cedira · 1 pointr/ValveIndex

I don't have my base stations permanently secured.

Instead, I bought a pair of these, but only used one of them, clamped to a bookcase.

On the other side of the room I have a basic camera tri-pod I bought over a decade ago sitting on a shelf with it's legs very close together and not extended very far.

u/skeetloaf · 1 pointr/photography

Is there a cheap adapter that would attach this to the screw on top of a regular camera tripod? basically a light stand adapter of sorts?

u/hideisalive · 1 pointr/photography

There's a bunch on Amazon from 6 and up

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00456PGOA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398119118&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

I have a bunch of them for small light modifiers.

u/krista_ · 2 pointsr/Vive

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZ1D4BB/


or something by smallrig. i've been using smallrig for a long time for lots of things, including a number of my bade stations.

u/game_0ver_ · 2 pointsr/Vive

I picked up two of these clamps for my living room as more of a temporary mount. Planning on clamping them to the curtain pole, wall light or maybe on a door. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1459112857&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=camera+mount+clamp&dpPl=1&dpID=41o38CfsL6L&ref=plSrch

u/mzinz · 1 pointr/photography

Are the umbrella swivels a universal standard? Would this be fine to connect the flash to stand? http://www.amazon.com/Flash-Holder-compatible-Canon-Speedlite/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324340636&sr=8-1

u/PumkinSpiceTrukNuts · 1 pointr/virtualreality

Oh just realized you may have been asking about the shower caddy rods. You have to get these mounts for the shower rods. (these are the rods I got)

u/dazzlerellis · 1 pointr/oculus

These worked well for me as I had some high shelfs so they clamp on to those no drilling required.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MR0VPOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/linh_nguyen · 2 pointsr/photography

It's an L bracket w/ multiple cold shoes.. but on a whim, search C bracket and came up with: http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Shaped-Adjustable-Bracket-Tripod/dp/B0031YZ1A6

err.. brain fart, as zstone noted, cold shoe, heh.

u/philleeeeee · 1 pointr/Vive

I have my lighthouses set up with a pair of clamp mounts which lets me attach them to my bookcase and wardrobe without having to drill any holes in the walls.

edit: you just missed out on the recent 25% off steam sale for the Rick and Morty game sadly