Reddit mentions: The best camera lens accessories

/u/neowng - with an £8,000 budget, you might want to think about an upgrade path to 4K. Sadly, if you buy the C100, you will be limiting yourself to 1080p - which could mean another upgrade in the next couple of years.

Since you're coming from JVC, you might want to look at the [£2,917.17 JVC GY-LS300 Super 35 camcorder] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=301510090765&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229508&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) plus a [£97 EF to MFT adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011I2WWQ8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B011I2WWQ8&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) for your Canon glass with aperture control and image stabilization enabled.

Like the C100, the LS300 has built-in NDs, XLRs, dual card slots, a top handle and camcorder ergonomics - but unlike the C100, it has 4096x2160p true 4K image resolution and SDI out - plus it can use its power zoom rocker and variable scan sensor mapping for lossless 1080p digital zoom with prime lenses (as seen [here] (https://youtu.be/0Eq4_hPzQPc)).

It also records to 3840x2160 Ultra High Definition (UHD), 2048x1080 DCI 2K and 1920x1080p HD (up to 60fps).

In addition, it has a flat LOG profile, which increases its dynamic range.

Like the C100, this is an 8-bit camera, but it has 4:2:2 color subsampling and will stand up to grading pretty well.

Here's a UHD file shot with cine gamma (before the J LOG release):

• [“Honmonji Temple” in GY-LS300 by moribun] (https://vimeo.com/139214323) (downloadable if you're a Vimeo Plus or Pro member [if you're not, you can sign up [here] (http://vimeo.com/pro/new?utm_source=affiliate&utm_medium=prosubscribe-cj-vimeo-bizlander-300x250-20130424&utm_campaign=7696)])
  
  Here's a nice J-LOG piece from Dan Chung at newssshooter.com:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 4K J-Log Vision] (https://vimeo.com/138523082) (not downloadable)
  
  And here's a very quick J-LOG camera shelf test at 4096x2160 Cinema 4K resolution from Gert Tetzner at avmediafactory:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Firmware 2.0 J-log ungraded] (https://vimeo.com/140984524) (downloadable for Vimeo Plus and Pro)
  
  A few more examples of the image quality this camera can produce:
  
  
• [GY-LS300 UHD 4K w/ Canon 70-200 and 85mm lenses] (https://youtu.be/QYCdxMrvAoA)
  
  
• [EVS’s test footage for the JVC GY-LS300 4K super 35 Cinema camera] (https://youtu.be/S47dceBcuJI)
  
  ...and 1080p on Vimeo:
  
  
• [JVC GY-LS300 Camera Test] (http://vimeo.com/122736335)
  
  
• [Breathing in New Life] (http://vimeo.com/120445118)
  
  A very nice overview from Zacuto:
  
  
• [First Look at JVC's GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/121192570)
  
  A couple of useful reviews from Rick Young's Movie Machine:
  
  
• [One of a kind - shooting with the JVC GY-LS300] (http://vimeo.com/133929950)
  
  
• [Shooting with the JVC GY-LS300 & Micro Four Thirds Lenses] (http://vimeo.com/136918105)
  
  And two recent reviews of the new features introduced with firmware update v2.0:
  
  
• [Fred Blurton Reviews JVC’s GY-LS300 Firmware Upgrades Version 2.0 by Fred Blurton Productions] (https://vimeo.com/142907613)
  
  
• [JVC LS300 Firmware v2 by Philip Johnston] (https://vimeo.com/150304533)
  
  I have shot with this camera - it is an easy-to-use, very high quality Super 35mm camcorder and a very good value for your money.
  
  Another option, as /u/Darnell _Jenkins suggested, might be a [£6,190.71 Sony FS5 with the 18-105 f/4 power zoom] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B018ITN81M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B018ITN81M&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) with a [£54.93 EF to NEX adapter] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00DW0EV2I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1634&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00DW0EV2I&linkCode=as2&tag=hybrcamerevo-21) for your Canon glass.
  
  This is a great 3840x2160p UHD camera (no 4096x2160p 4K yet) - with real native power zoom lenses, higher frame rates and better low light performance than the LS300 - but it will cost you over £3,000 more.
  
  That said, the FS5 can produce beautiful images that look like this:
  
  
• [The Wood Carver: A Sony FS5 mini documentary by Philip Bloom] (https://vimeo.com/150015724)
  
  
• [Sony FS5 Review - “The Catman” by Johnnie Behiri] (https://vimeo.com/145925611)
  
  
• [Sony PXW-FS5 Launch film “Free Spirit” by Den Lennie] (https://vimeo.com/138889050)
  
  
• [Newsshooter.com Sony FS5 London anti war demonstration footage - graded by Dan Chung] (https://vimeo.com/147904573)
  
  
• [Iron Works - Blacksmithing with the Sony FS5 by OC Films] (https://vimeo.com/147975548)
  
  Hope this is helpful - and best of luck with your upgrade!
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

In the last few years, I have owned and/or used Canon 5DII, 7D, Blackmagic Pocket and now GH4. Lots of pictures (hey, I'm visual).

The basic Field Of View (FOV) of lenses don't change - a 50mm is a 50mm, no matter if the lens is made for a full-frame 35mm film camera, or a native Micro Four Thirds cam like the GH4. The only difference is the image circle a lens projects behind it is (usually) designed for the size of sensor it has to cover. If the lens is designed for a larger sensor, it can usually be used on a smaller sensor, but the FOV will appear smaller. The lens will appear more telephoto, just as if you cropped out the center of a photo on a larger camera. thus, "crop factor".

Here are the basic video shooting modes for the GH4. Now, that picture compares the modes to the full MFT sensor. 1080 uses the full width of the sensor, but not the full height, due to the 16x9 Aspect Ratio. the MFT sensor is quite a bit smaller than a "Full Frame" camera such as the Canon 5D, or an APS-C Like the 7D.

Sidenote: I said basic video shooting modes, because the v2 firmware has added several other 4K modes only really useful for pulling stills, or special-use videos in more square-ish aspect ratios (like shooting with an anamorphic lens).

Various sensor sizes, and modes within them can seem super complicated, and difficult to wrap your head around. Mainly, I think it's due to the wealth of choices available: with mirrorless cameras, you can adapt almost any lens made for stills or cinema, and quite a few lenses originally made for video. This is because the Flange Focal Distance, or the distance between the sensor and the lens mount, is so short. As long as the FFD is longer, you can adapt the lens easily with a basically a dumb tube that moves the lens farther out, and has the proper mounts at each end.

That's fine for all-manual lenses, where you can adjust the iris, focus and (for zoom lenses) focal length manually. But for more modern lenses that require electronic control, you need a "smart" adapter like the ones from Metabones. Metabones also make Speedboosters, which "condense" the image circle of a larger lens into the size of a smaller sensor, giving you three advantages: .7x wider FOV than a "dumb" adapter; 1 stop more light; and, better image detail.

If you compare the GH4s sensor sizes to other common film/video formats, it's rather on the small-ish size for either motion picture or still photography, but larger than most 1/3" or 1/2" pro video cameras of the last few decades. In 4K, it's a bit larger than the BMPCC, which is almost identical to Super-16mm film. Add a Speedbooster, and it's very similar to APS-C or Super 35mm film.

I like this general range a lot. Many of the fast & small C-mount lenses that cover the Pocket also cover 4K, and using a Speedbooster opens up (relatively) inexpensive and high-quality Canon lenses. Like any camera with a smaller sensor, telephoto is easy. Getting a true wide-angle rectilinear is where it starts to get hard and pricey. 18mm is NOT a wide angle on this size sensor without a speedbooster.

That said, my single, ideal all purpose lens would be the Tamron 17-50mm f2.8 VC, Canon Mount on a Canon Speedbooster. Why Canon instead of Nikon? Because of the flange distance, I could also use old manual Nikon lenses with a simple cheap adapter. Can't do that the other way around.

This gives me a very nice, nearly parfocal, constant f2.0 lens that goes from a nice wide to a medium telephoto. This lens and the Speedbooster are abouth 30% more than the most popular native MFT lens, but you only have to buy the SB once. If you don't need stabilization, the lens is even less.

Hi /u/sanityrepresent - I own the BMPCC , and with the right setup, it can be a good, inexpensive first camera. But first you have to fix the few things that make it a challenge to shoot with out of the box, e.g. the tight crop, the "iPhone-like" ergonomics, the dim LCD and the short battery life.

Crop

You absolutely need a wide angle lens to shoot indoors with this camera. I have an old Olympus 11-22mm f2.8-3.5 with a Panasonic DMC-MA1 adapter that gives me a full frame equivalent 32-63mm. But it was expensive. If I was starting again from scratch, and couldn't afford a Speed Booster, I would get a [used Nikon mount Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 for about $400] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2FLenses-%2F3323%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_nkw%3Dtokina%2B11-16mm%2Bnikon%26rt%3Dnc%26LH_BIN%3D1) and an [inexpensive Nikon G to micro 4/3 adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TROEBM/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003TROEBM&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (this is the adapter I use for my Nikon lenses).

Ergonomics

Yes, you can buy or build a shoulder mount - but that can be expensive and/or time consuming. I built my own for less than $200 and I love it ([here] (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-QW78g2jQbeU/U2mZ-aV32NI/AAAAAAAAIzg/E4d9v8aCmME/w963-h543-no/P1080600.JPG)'s a photo - I'll post the parts list if you like), but it turns out I don't use it much.

Instead, I use a [$24 pistol grip with a trigger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=221603818145&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) - just like my old Super 8 cameras from 40 years ago. With the right stance, it works great to keep the camera steady and is a lot less hassle than my rig.

You will also need a [$10 cold shoe] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HJFBUCQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00HJFBUCQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) if you want to mount a mic, light or recorder on top of the camera.

LCD

It is very difficult to see the LCD outdoors (or even indoors, in a brightly lit room). The best solution for this problem is an LCD Viewfinder. I bought a Kinotehnik LCDVF BM ([$118 at B&H] (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1013082-REG/kinotehnik_lcdvfbm_blackmagic_pocket_2ea_mounting_plates_soft.html), [$159 at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/LCDVFBM.html?KBID=66297)).

With the pistol grip and the LCD Viewfinder, this camera becomes a joy rather than a pain to handle. Here is a pic of my setup: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-f3hbYYV_y8o/VHDp77GMxoI/AAAAAAAAJF8/xnHRvNcCm5o/w724-h543-no/P1020575.JPG


Battery

I started out by buying a bunch of spare batteries, but that was unmanageable, so I am getting a [$70 belt clip adapter for my Sony camcorder batteries] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPJ1FJ0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00LPJ1FJ0&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). If you don't have any of these batteries laying around, you can [buy them for $10] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). They have twice the capacity of Blackmagic batteries and cost less. I would get at least two of them plus a [$17.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) (I have one of these for my Sony batteries and they work great).

With this setup, you will have an easy to shoot with, affordable, RAW/10-bit ProRes Super 16 camera with 13+ stops of dynamic range for about $1675 all in.

Good luck!

HCR

You can get some of the effect you want with the 22mm F2 which is an excellent and arguably a better walking around focal length. To maximize blur if you are not getting the desired effect (with any lens) open up the aperture all the way (Av mode) and make sure the background is as distant as possible (so not standing up against that nice tree but a few feet forward of it.).

That said the EF 50mm is an excellent lens and works seemlessly with the M10 with an adpater and would be better at producing the bokeh you desire.

The really nice thing about the canon adapter is it's a simple electrical passthrough, does not impede lens performance at all and is really simple to make. While canon is (I feel) over charging for a ring of metal with some passthough connectors you can get a well reviewed 3rd party adapter for $30-$40. Amazon is OOS right now so the price is a bit higher than I've seen it in the past:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9BKWEQ/

If you are on a really tight shoestring budget you can get the knockoff 50mm with the adapter for under $100. Canon's is better but is it twice as good, and better resolution is not necessarily a good thing for portraits....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QEXM4YC/

IF you are not on budget look at canon's 50mm F1.4 for even more yummy bokeh or the sigma 50mm.

There are rumours that canon will soon introduce an EF-M 50mm. It makes sense if they are serious about the EOS-M system but for me it's little value added as the adapter plus EF 50mm STM + adapter is so cheap.

Basically, yes, but you'll also need a few relatively cheap things to make sure you have power and a way to mount the camera to the scope. And you can definitely go much cheaper (especially on the camera). I just had the camera prior to getting into astrophotography because I do photography as well.

To answer your question, the only other thing I purchased separately that was involved in my setup for this shot was the battery pack that powers the mount, a T-Ring, and a T-Adapter that allows me to mount my camera to the scope.

Power Tank

T-Ring

T-Adapter

Again. You can go much cheaper on the camera and can actually just use a webcam to shoot the video that you'll stack into a still. Registax is free. Autostakkert is free. And there are free photoshop alternatives. You'll also want to use this program called BackyardEOS to shoot the videos at 5x zoom (My computer was acting up for this shot, so I didn't use it this time around) but it's well worth the $30 I think I paid for it. You can get even clearer shots like this one I got a while back. The program allows you to digitally zoom in at 5x using and use only a part of the camera's sensor. Please let me know if you need any other information. I'd be glad to help. Hope this helps some!

I've worked at a theater for a number of years, and still do occasionally.

I wouldn't go with the A6300. Theater lighting is generally pretty bright so you don't need a good low light camera. Additionally, you want something with longer battery life if you filming long plays. I think you'll be happier with a GH5 or a GH4.

For years, I've been using the the GH4 with this metabones speedbooster and the Canon 24-105 for stage plays. I usually throw a gopro up in the rafters for my wideshot. I actually was able to get away with one camera shoots for awhile now as long as I operated it safely, but lately I've been using the GH5 with the 24-105 as my A-Cam and the GH4 with the 12-35 as my B-Cam.

The 24-105 is an absolute joy to use when filming plays. It's par-focal which is incredibly handy, and you don't really need something faster than f/4 with stage lighting.

As far as audio, I have two cheap condensor mics like these mounted above the stage with cables running into the booth. When I come in to record, I plug in a tascam recorder like this one.

I wouldn't get the NTG-2. It's only useful if you can get it really close to your subjects. If you want a shotgun mic I would really reccomend getting the MKE 600

The theater I have a client has numerous fresnels laying all over the place, so I have ample lighting if needed. I usually just use whatever is installed currently.

This Tripod has been my #1 choice for a long time now, and has filmed many plays. I prefer it to ones that cost 4 times as much. I upgraded the fluid head to a Manfrotto 502 which is a huge improvement.

Hope this helps, feel free to message me about anything in particular.

Hi /u/mobalatero - the Canon EF 50mm f1.4 is a beautiful piece of glass and I would keep it. Here's why - these beautiful 4K images were shot with a Canon EF 50mm f1.4 lens adapted to the GH4 (the heron shot is with a Canon EF 100mm macro - please watch at your monitor's highest resolution): http://youtu.be/YTOZaYMwHg8

You'd be hard pressed to match the quality of these images with another lens.

You have seven options for adapting Canon EF lenses to micro 4/3 (that I am aware of) - some of them very affordable. Here they are from least expensive to most expensive [Referral Links]:

• get a [dumb EF to MFT adapter for $16] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003150B6O/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003150B6O&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) (this is what I did when I switched from Canon) - the aperture will default to wide open - but you can use a variable ND for light control and focus manually
  
  
• get a [$32 adapter with built-in aperture control] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KG4QKC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007KG4QKC&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) - this will allow you to "stop down" using an aperture ring on the adapter instead of a variable ND
  
  
• get a [generic $94 Canon EF to micro 4/3 focal reducer/speed booster] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=281240980971&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) - this will make your lens one stop faster and "widen" it by 0.71x - you will still have to control the amount of light hitting your sensor with a variable ND
  
  
• get a [$315 HolyManta Variable ND built into a Canon EF to micro 4/3 adapter] (http://www.holymanta.com/products/holymanta-vnd-ef-mft) - this is a relatively new solution from a Swedish startup - it inserts a variable ND into the adapter instead of screwing it onto the lens - interesting, but seems like overkill to me
  
  
• get a [$598 RedRock Micro Canon EF to MFT Live Lens adapter] (http://www.adorama.com/RR80900001.html?KBID=66297) - this adapter provides electrical power to Canon lenses for aperture control (you still have to focus manually) - no focal length reduction
  
  
• get a [$659 Metabones Canon EF to Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera adapter] (http://www.adorama.com/MBSPDBSTRBLK.html?KBID=66297) and use the GH4's electronic shutter - this adapter is a focal reducer/Speed Booster with a built-in aperture ring - but it is designed for the BMPCC, so it will interfere with the GH4's mechanical shutter and absolutely requires the use of the E-shutter (use this adapter at your own risk)
  
  
• wait for Metabones to release a focal reducer/Speed Booster with built-in aperture control for non-Blackmagic micro 4/3 cameras - no one knows how long that will be or how much it will cost, but I'm guessing that it will be about the same price as the BMPCC adapter.
  
  
  When adapting Canon lenses, you should remember that the GH4's 2x crop will make the lenses "twice as long" - so your 50mm will have the same FOV as a 100mm lens on a full frame camera.
  
  That's why I recommend you get the $94 focal reducer to turn your 50mm f1.4 lens into a "35mm f1.0" with a ~70mm full frame equivalent field of view (very close to what it looked like on your 60D). With a [$12 variable ND for the 58mm filter thread on your lens] (http://www.adorama.com/RR80900001.html?KBID=66297) to stop it down, you will have a great starter lens for your GH4 for not a lot of money.
  
  Hope this is helpful and best of luck with your new GH4 - it's an awesome camera!
  
  Bill
  
  
  
  
  

There's two main adapters worth your while you may or may not be aware of. First the Metabones Speed Booster from Canon to MFT which has full electronic control and reduces the focal length to make it equivalent of having the lens on a APS-C body (roughly). The same happens with aperture making efectively 1 stop brighter and even sharper.

This is an expensive adapter so there's the cheap solution with the Mitakon Zhongyi Lens Turbo II that, unlike the Metabones, does not have electronics but does quite a nice job for around 1/3 of the price. The Nikon version does have an aperture control ring, not sure about the others. You can use a cheap adapter ring to get the Pentax to fit any of these I believe.

As for a tripod I'd look into the AmazonBasics workhorse (I know, I know) that you may be skeptical about, and yes, it's not perfect but for the price it's an amazing piece of gear.

SD Card-wise I have a couple of these and they've been working wonders.

I've seen general praise over SmallRig cage so you may want to look into that. You can get just the basic cage or you can add a handle a ton of other stuff.

I don't think you'd need an external recorder right now and even if you got it, the signal that the G7 outputs it's kind of weak. 8 Bit 4:2:0 as far as I remember (maybe 4:2:2 but the real difference would be 10 Bit). The general rule of thumb is always shoot 4K and use it on 1080 timelines. That makes for a super detailed 1080 image that has room for reframing.

You can get some bang for the buck LED Lights in the Yongnuo Yn 300 III with even cheaper prices if you get a slightly older model. They are not spectacular but I think you can't go wrong for the price and they output quite an amount of light. Here is a review just so you can see them in action. This guy uses a G7 with a Lumix 25mm 1.7 I believe so that may give a more real life scenario.

That's all I can think right now, I hope you find some if this stuff useful and congrats on your purchase, it's an awesome little camera, I think it will work wonders for your kind of projects.

The Panny 12-35 f2.8 is by far my most used lens, and it compliments your friend's 35-100 f2.8 nicely.

I also have the Panasonic 25mm f1.4 which is a great lens - there's no OIS, which is a downside for a lot of people but if you have a steady hand or a tripod you're ok. I use this a lot on weddings. You could by the 25mm f1.7 for sightly less.

The next lense I'll be buying is the Voightlander 10.5mm f0.95 - it's pricey but a fast wide lens is something I've been looking for for awhile on the m43 system. Voightlander has a variety of f0.95 prime lenses compatable with your sytem - I think a 25, 35, 50 and 80mm IIRC. Had I not alreaday had those focal lengths covered I may have picked one of those up too.

for only $80ish bucks this 9mm BLC (body lens cap) fisheye lens is awesome. Lot of people overlooking it. It's locked at f7 but that's not an issue since I am ususally shooting with it during the day or timelapsing with it in low light with a slowshutter (great for wedding or even timelapses - like this one of mine). I keep it on my camera instead of normal lens caps.

Similar I'd recommend looking into some older lenses and using an adapter. To cover my longer focal lengths I use an older Zeis 50mm f1.4 prime from my analog photography days - it's effectly 110mm with the crop factor.

For extremely cheap ($10-$50 bucks on ebay) you can buy c mount tv lenses. Almost all are f1.4 and have a real milky dream like look to them. They can be cool - check this video out for an example HERE. 16mm lenses can be converted aswell but they'll be way more money.


All my suggestions by the first two are fully manual lenses. That's not everyone's thing sometimes FYI, but I feel like those people are more from the photography side of things. I basically shoot the same stuff you do from the sounds of it - concerts, music vids, commercial stuff, weddings. etc.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canon_T90

(

The T90 is incompatible with EOS (The lens system on modern Canon cameras)

You can use an adapter, but it won't be as good.

If you're going to adapt lenses, I think the Nex system is best, because they have peak focusing which is fucking awesome. Other camera systems should get this in a few years... in fact they could get it from a firmware update tomorrow.. but for some reason nobody else is implementing it :(

With this adapter and a Nex 5 you could use your old FD lenses quite well... (Nex 5 is a slightly older model, the Nex 5N is the newest version, but it's not actually that much better, the old one is still good) it seems slightly out of your price range, but I see them on sale second hand quite often, so if you keep your eye out on craigslist/gumtree/etc. you could get lucky. Or you could just go for the Nex 3 (I think this would be best, since you should have some kit lenses with autofocus, manual is fun, but it's better to go out and take photos and not worry about fiddling around with manual lenses.....)

I use a few old Nikon/Nikkor lenses. Get a F mount to E-mount adapter, go on c-list or ebay and get a cheap lens. You will have to do manual focus, but focus peaking is really the best thing ever for that. You will also have to manage the aperture which is pretty easy.

Look up Ken Rockwell's manual Nikon lens reviews for good details. I have a 55mm 1.2, 135mm 2.8, 28mm 2.8, 35mm 2, and a 300mm 4.5. All these lenses can be had for under $250 if you look carefully. Also, the old nikon lenses are built like tanks, and if you do destroy one, it's not the end of the world as they are cheap. I have been hard on my 55mm and 35mm not a tear was shed when I broke one, as it cost $100 and got many good shots with it.

A HUGE plus is that the camera will use a lot less power, I can shoot 1200+ photos with my a7 and a7s and still have ~60% battery left. Also, after about 2 years of heavy manual focus, I can focus pretty quickly, sometimes better than auto focus (with low light).

If you want to get started much cheaper try out any reverse lens mounts. It allows you to mount your lens using the threads on the front. It's produces fantastic macro images.

https://www.amazon.ca/Fotodiox-Reverse-Camera-Adapter-filter/dp/B001G4NBSC

Something like this. Now I shoot canon but nothing is different. I've used this method many times. It will work great with you 18-55. The zoom will allow you to make some slight adjustments to how close you want to be.

One of the downfalls though is you physically have to move to get your image to be in focus. The pay off is marvellous though.

I know I didn't answer your question but hopefully I was if help. Happy shooting.

For a Cell phone, just hold it up to the eyepiece. For extra stability, you could get an eyepiece adapter. With few exceptions (newer cell phone cameras are getting sophisticated enough for long~ish exposure on bright objects), the only objects you will be able to snap will be planets and the Moon.

For a DSLR, you will need 2 components, a T-Ring which acts as a lens attachment (and you will need to find one for your specific camera brand), and a T-Adapter which will allow the camera to insert into the telescope like an eyepice. Given you are going to an actual observatory, they likely use 2" eyepieces, so a 2" T-adapter will probably be needed.

You should also make sure they are OK with you taking pictures like this. I help run a local public observatory (ie no research, just open nights for the public to look up) and we host monthly photo nights, but setting up the scope for photography requires changing the focus and if you are taking photos that means you'll be tying up any lines behind you for several minutes. On the other hand, if this is a private observatory and you don't have to worry about lines, then great. I would call ahead to make sure either way - maybe they already have the adapters you need

Well it is an old camera, so it's definitely not going to perform at the same level as the new hotness, but that could also be a straight out of camera JPEG with no raw editing too.

Have a look through the Flickr D200 pool and see if you're cool with the quality before buying for sure: https://www.flickr.com/groups/nikond200/pool/

I mean, don't expect miracles, but people still do use older cameras (for example, I'm still using my decade-old 5D and love it) with great effect.

Also just for another random suggestion: if you're not committed to Nikon cameras, Canon EOS cameras (anything that has the EF mount) can adapt Nikon F lenses with a simple adapter. A benefit of going with Canon in this particular instance is that stop down metering should work with any camera, not just their mid-range and higher ones.

If this is an attractive option, looking at some used T3s or T1is could be another choice to consider.

Hello :-)

Great advice so far!

As the others said, a dobsonian will be the best, as you can afford a very large aperture and have a stable mount. Not for imaging, but for planets it still works with some patience.


$300 can get you a 6" dobsonian, or a "2nd"/refurbished XT8. It doesn't get better than this. 8" already shows a lot regarding deep-sky! ...under a dark sky at least.

• "2nd"/clearance (sometimes 6" $224, 8" $304)
  
  
• https://www.telescope.com/Fall-Red-Tag-Sale/Clearance-Telescopes/pc/468/81.uts?&refinementValueIds=4566
  
  
• What to expect in different aperture sizes:
  
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/Astronomy/comments/3j2wjo/what_is_a_good_telescope_in_this_budget/cum0622/?st=k0epgl6l&sh=496220f9 (especially the bold link)
  
  
• Size/Portability
  
  
• https://www.reddit.com/r/telescopes/comments/e0fyli/question_about_appropriate_telescope_size/?st=k3bgvvk3&sh=21cffd01
  
   
  
  > upgradable
  
  The main mirror (or lens) is the heart of a telescope, and can't be upgraded. Thus a 8" would show you the most in the long run, even if you can't afford as many accessories as with a 5" or 6".
  
  With other eyepieces you can later add a wider field of view or more magnification. Even at $20 you can get some decent ones (e.g. the 6mm 66° for planets).
  
  
• http://blog.pixelgiraffe.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/dobson8eyepieces1200.png
  
  
• https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32805977303.html
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Eyepiece-Length-66-Deg-Multi-Coated-Telescope/dp/B01L1HBIME
  
  For DSLR, you need a barlow both to reach focus and get the planets "large enough". A $15-$20 with T-thread can work (a cheap one introduces a lot of chromatic aberration though), and a $10 adapter for your DSLR to the T mount.
  
  
  
• 1 or 2 or 3 (random links as example for the Canon EF mount, double check if it's the right thing, you don't need a tube or eyepiece projection adapter if you have a barlow with T thread)
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Multi-Coated-M42x0-75mm-Astronomy-Telescope-Eyepieces/dp/B07WV3PF8M/ (about the cheapest you can get = you get what you pay for, there are even sets).
  
  A decent barlow set can go in the $100s.
  
   
  
  ...And "turn left at Orion" - The missing manual :-) Do you have binoculars?
  
  
  Clear skies!

> I recently acquired the Sigma 18-35 f/1.8 (Nikon mount) with speedbooster. It’s the lens I leave on my GH4. Useful lengths for everyday, casual, fun, whatever you may need. It’s massive, heavy but super pretty.

It is! Saw a lot of GH4 / GH5 vids with Sigma 18-35mm on youtube and it is something to look at. Just a question, were you bothered by the vignetting? And if im going with a Sigma 18-35mm, can I use a use a cheaper adaptor like this: https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-NF-M43X-adapter-aperture-infinity/dp/B072XF4L4J/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 . Thinking of trying this out first and then borrowing some Nikon lenses from friends then I'm also going for the Sigma 18-35mm. Saw some people selling it lower than the 12-35 f/2.8 so I might consider it. Thanks!

The image link is blocked from external linking, but I copied it here.

Everyone is right that the best choice is a macro len. You can also try using the much less expensive option of extension tubes (with or without AF).

Also don't forget about light. When you get this close your DOF (depth of field) shrinks to almost nothing (notice in your example picture how almost everything except the ladybug is a green blur). To handle this macro is often shot with very small apertures (f/11 - f/32), which means you need a lot of light. I don't shoot macro (gratuitous personal shot) very often, but when I do I like to use a couple of flashes on either side of my subject. This gives me lots of light and handles the shadows better than a single strobe.

People who are big into macro photography tend to use dedicated flash systems and other crazy rigs.

Have fun!

The kit lens that comes with the G7 is pretty sharp for a kit lens, but it's aperture doesn't get very wide. It's overall pretty good for a beginner, because of the ISO sensitivity of the camera it's less important to have a lens with a wide aperture. That being said, it's not perfect for everything and one of the first lenses that many G7 shooters get after they've outgrown the kit lens is the Panasonic 25mm f1.7.

And yes, one of the advantages of the Micro Four Thirds sensor and mount system the Panasonic G7 uses, is its wide compatibility with adapted lenses using either a basic "metal ring" adapter, a focal reducer (which reduces the crop inherent to the Micro Four Thirds format while adding an extra stop of light to your lens), a smart adapter
(which retains electronic lens features like autofocus and image stabilization), or a speedbooster (which does the job of both a focal reducer and a smart adapter in one).

Take a look at B&H or Amazon if you want to buy new. There's also a pretty large secondary market for Gh4's on Craigslist, which I am always a fan of.

Speedbooster wise, for Canon lenses, at the moment you pretty much have two options for canon lenses: This guy or this guy


Welcome to the club! It's gonna be great.

That's the scope I started with :)

The easiest way to get involved (IMHO) is to get a DSLR and a T-mount. This will allow you to attach a canon DSLR to the back of your scope. Now you can easily take pictures of the moon, planets, and brighter objects in the sky.

Deep Sky Stacker is a free image pre-processing program that will help you stack all of your images together with their calibration frames to get ready to do the processing to get the detail out of the image.

As for image processing, Pixinsight is what I use, and it's a hefty pricetag, but it's a one-stop-shop. It does everything you need it to do. I've seen others with exceptional results from using photoshop, but I have no training or expertise in it at all. Here is a fantastic book that explains the intricacies of PI.

For long exposure stuff, you'll need a high quality equatorial mount, and for even longer exposure stuff, you might need a guide camera, but you'd be surprised what a well aligned unguided mount can get you, especially for brighter objects (like M42 here) and shorter exposures. Instead of the 3 minute exposures I took here, you can take 45-second exposures and just collect buckets of them and stack them all together.

I have the Samyang/Rokinon 7.5mm f/3.5 Fisheye and the Olympus 9mm f/8.0 Lens Cap Fisheye.

The Rokinon is overall good but has some minor QA issues. There's some play on the focus ring around the infinity mark. It's generally not a big deal but means you have to be careful to keep the ring lined up and can't rely on simply turning it till you hit the stop.

The Olympus Lens Cap is awesome for the price but the picture quality is fine. You won't be using it for any serious work but it's perfect for fun.

Extension tubes have no glass, air is air. Kenko tubes perform every bit as good optically as Nikon. A set of three is $129. Not much chance finding a set for $40.

They will probably perform best with the prime 35mm, but you may prefer the focal length of one of the zooms, and quality may be acceptable.

What does fit in your budget is a reversing ring for that 35mm - $35. There are off brands that are cheaper, but I have not researched the mechanical quality.

Considering the cost, reversing rings give great results. A very common way to find out if you like macro. This writer likes the generic brand of rings. $12.00

Thank you so much :)

Yes, it's Dubai, i live in Sharjah actually, not much to take a photo of but i try my best to improvise and work with what's around me (such as the picture of the palms.)

About what i find lacking, i'm interested in doing a few photography setups since transportation isn't easy and most of what around me has been photographed to hell by me. I want to take a certain picture of a drop of water splashing into a large water body, such as a bowl filled with colored milk or such. But every time i read about these things i require lots of equipment, such as flashes and umbrellas and general lighting equipment, but i try to improvise.

Anyway, i'd like some advice about how to photograph certain buildings, such as lets say a skyscraper, is there any special gear i need?

And as for post, Photoshop RAW
Also, i'm dipping my toes in the water of macro photography, a friend of mine told me not to buy a macro lens right away, so im thinking of purchasing macro extension tubes, such as these.

Yeah. I bought my canon xsi off cregslit complete with a canon 18-55mm and a 55-250mm with 3 SD's a tripod and a case for $450 and i have never had any complaints with that gear.

also if your looking for a nice lens but don't have the dough you can pick up one of these for pretty cheap and get 40 year old nikon lenses that are just as sharp as new ones for much much less.

or if you go nikon you don't have to use the ring. :P

also I would like to see your work! I haven't read the whole thread to see if you posted a link of some kind, but i would love to see some of ur stuff!

Thanks guys. Ya, I don't need manual focus, but I do need to control my aperture.

The Kenko set seems like the best one, but it's kind of expensive at $250 and is more than I was hoping to spend.

https://www.amazon.ca/Kenko-Auto-Extension-Canon-Mount/dp/B000U8Y88M/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1501421408&sr=8-14&keywords=extension+tube

My alternatives are:

Fotodiox for $70

https://www.amazon.ca/Fotodiox-Extension-Lenses-Extreme-Close-Up/dp/B00CYLLF16/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1501421641&sr=8-2&keywords=extension+tube+canon

Neewer for $36

https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-3-piece-12-20-36mm-Automatic-Extension/dp/B00GJJBO4C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501421661&sr=8-3&keywords=extension+tube+canon

No-Name Brand - $58

https://www.amazon.ca/Focus-Extension-Camera-Complete-Starter/dp/B00HJX1LYK/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501422011&sr=1-6&keywords=extension+tube+canon

Hey there! My a6300 will be here Monday. It's my upgrade from my (5 years of use) t3i! I've been wanting an a7s / a7s ii ever since they were released but the a6300 seems like a much better option right now as my budget is even lower than yours. I purchased this adapter and I will be using it with a Rokinon 14mm, 35mm, and 85mm until I can afford a Sony 50mm f/1.8 and Sony Zeiss 16-70 f/4.

I will be testing this camera out Tuesday with my setup and can let you know my thoughts if I remember!

Extras: Instead of purchasing Sony lenses in the future, I may purchase Sigmas new adapter and invest in a line of sigma lenses. If I had $1500 left like you, I'd sell my t3i, my lenses, purchase that adapter when it is available, and purchase sigma lenses. Here is a great video of the new sigma adapter.

Yes, I meant computers too.
You will need an adapter, but the good thing about canon is, if you adapt your bigger canon lenses to the M, all the auto functionality works perfectly, whereas if you adapt your lens to other bodies, there may be some discrepancies. Adapters aren't too pricey either, this one works as good as the 'official' canon adapter for a fraction of the price https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Lens-Mount-Auto-Adapter/dp/B00D9BKWEQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527005918&sr=8-3&keywords=ef+to+m+adapter

My go to lately has been the olympus 25 f1.8 . It's the 'Nifty Fifty' of the m43 world and does well in lo-light/indoor situations. they used to be $399 but have dropped to $299 recently.

Only downside is no image stabelization as Pani does it in lens and Olympus does it in body, but at that focal length it is not usually an issue.

If you are on a budget but want to play around to see what it's like having a prime lens with low f-stop i highly recomend the Fotasy line. I call them toy lenses but they can actually produce some very nice pictures with interesting boke due to it's super low f-stop. I picked up a few of these at different focal lengths and it taught me a lot about my camera. upside, lenses are 20-30 bucks, downside, no auto anything, but they can be great learning tools.

Specifically, you need to look for lenses that say "macro".

The actual focal length really depends on exactly what you hope to shoot.

The reality is that you're stepping into "specialty" accessories for photography which means "more expensive".

Most likely you're looking at the 60mm f/2.8 Macro, or the 100mm f/2.8 Macro.

These are the Kenko Extension Tubes, which you mount between the body and the lens.

They move the focal plane further from the rear element in the lens which means you can focus more closely. They're very handy, but if you're at a point where you need to spend money anyway, I'd advise that you just go for a proper macro lens because the 55-250 lens you already own isn't exactly the most amazing image quality. (it's very much a starter / kit lens).

Good luck!

You might have heard that cameras from Sony are good in low light, and they definitely are, but they have their own issues. That being the rolling shutter, so I can't recommend a Sony camera for sports.

With that said, something to consider is a Panasonic GH5 used in like new condition, arguably the best mirrorless camera for video right now. Just get the body, then use a metabones speed booster, and choose a Canon lens to get good low light performance.

Keep in mind this is a challenging situation for any camera. Shooting at 60fps results in a shorter shutter time, so you let in less light. Couple that with outdoor night video, and you'll need some decent equipment to get good quality results.

So I've been doing astronomy for several years now and decided to try to venture into astrophotography. I bought a Canon T6 Rebel, this T-ring, and this adapter to use with my smallish Celestron refractor (not sure the exact model atm, sorry) and my computerized Celestron mount.
I'm fairly sure I'm missing something obvious here but how do I use an eyepiece with this set-up? They don't seem to fit in the extension tube.
Also, can someone recommend what settings I use on the Canon or recommend some good resources for someone new to DSLR and astrophotography. Right now I'm mainly looking to photograph Jupiter, Saturn, Mars, and the Moon.
Thanks!

My go-to lens right now with the a7s is the Canon 24-105 f/4 L.

I previously shot exclusively on Rokinon primes with my Canon 7D since I was always running into lowlight situations for event coverage. But the a7s being the lowlight monster it is, there's really no point in carrying around 3-4 different primes at one time and constantly switching out when I have all those focal lengths available in one really great zoom. Also, the image stabilization is extremely helpful. I shoot pretty much 100% handheld with the 24-105 and my footage (motion-wise) looks better than it ever did with my primes + monopod.

If you wanted to get a feel for what your footage would look like, you can check out this video. I shot all of the b-roll at the beginning of it with the 24-105 and my a7s. The singing portion starting around 1:12 was shot with Rokinon primes so you can just ignore it from that part onwards.

https://vimeo.com/120457369

password: lindalindalinda

You can probably snatch a good version of the lens for around $600. A lot of people are buying up 5D and 6D packages these days that come with the 24-105 as a kit lens. It's possible you could get a new one for around that price. My used copy has worked well for me though.

And I know the metabones adapter seems like the more legit option but most other a7s users I've encountered, myself included, prefer the Commlite Adapter over it. Only $100, works like a charm, and there's no need to mess around with firmware updates. Only problem you may encounter with it is light flaring more than usual. Personally though, I think it looks cool. But there are ways to insulate the adapter to get rid of it.

If you think you still need some 3rd or 4th opinions, feel free to head over to the Sony A7s Cinematography & Video User Group or the Sony A7S Video Shooters Group on Facebook. I'm sure they'll have much more insight to offer.

I'm gonna offer my two cents here, I hope this helps:

Here is pretty much exactly what I would buy with that amount of money:

1. G7 with 14-42 Kit Lens - 497 on Adorama w/ a $50 gift card. here.
   
   
2. use that $50 to get yourself a couple of 64GB Transcend Class 10 SD Cards. here.
   
   
3. For a tripod, this Amazon Basics fluid head is a great value at $65, but frequently goes on sale for $35-$45. here.
   
   
4. Low light on the kit lens sucks, you can solve that by grabbing some FD lenses on eBay. I'd go for 50mm 1.4 and 28mm 2.8 as a start. Each can be had for ~$50.
   
   
5. To use those lenses on your G7, you'll need a simple, cheap adapter. Find that here.
   
   
6. For audio, you can get surprisingly good sound out of this cheap, cold shoe mountable shotgun right here.
   
   I believe that totals a little less than $700 for an enviable amount of non garbage, budget friendly equipment. You can even add some lighting and still stay under that bundle price.

I have an EOS M.

I'd suggest installing Magic Lantern firmware to unlock 3x lossless crop zoom which gives you the same benefits of the t3i crop zoom.

Along with the 22mm it came with, I have a Canon 50mm f1.8 and a Sigma 30mm 1.4 that work with my Fotodiox EOS M adapter.

The EOS M goes through batteries kind of quick, so I bought a 2 pack third party Wasabi batteries and charger.

I also have an EOS M AC adapter which lets you plug the EOS M into a wall or to a large battery like this...



Here's a couple videos I shot with the EOS M.

• Home Studio Setting
  
• Event Coverage
  
  It's a great starter camera.
  
  I wish it had remote shooting, so I can use apps like DSLR Controller.

If I might recommend one more thing to spice up your macro world, it would be a reversing ring. Stick it on your fast 50mm (or 35mm) and it's pretty neat. Definately leaning more in the artsy/lomo world doing this, as the DOF is super tiny, and you basically have to get 'right on top' of your subject, but, hey, it is cheap, cool fun. I have been using a pair of cheap LED flashlights to illuminate whatever it is I'm messing with.

I typed that response up on a tablet, and I wanted to take the time to give you a better response.

I have a D3100, and it does pretty well. The reason I recommend the D5200 is because DxOmark rates the sensor quality much higher than my D3100. If you can afford it, you might as well get it. The tilting screen might also be handy, and has a better resolution to boot.

Fotodiox Extension Tubes <-- These are the extension tubes I have for my camera.

I also made an album of pictures using the tubes.

With 135mm lens

With 50mm lens

I will say that the 135mm allows you to be farther away, which will help prevent getting shadows from the lens in your picture.

The thing about extension tubes is that they really seem to mess with your exposure. Therefore, you can't really use the "Sunny 16 rule" very well. Most of the time I have to "chimp." Take a picture, look at the histogram, adjust.

I've only had my tubes for a few days, but I would also recommend a tripod. As you can see from my pictures, there are large areas that are out of focus. You can increase the "depth of field" by "stopping down" the aperture, but that means you have to lengthen the exposure. Longer shutter times = more blur.

I bought a Canon AE-1 on eBay for a photography class I took a couple of years ago. It came with a 50mm 1.8 lens that's completely mechanical- no sensors, wiring, etc. I've since gotten this adapter and a couple more old Canon-compatible lenses to use with the NEX and everything coalesces perfectly.

There are loads of pretty cheap, functioning FD (or third-party brands compatible with Canon) lenses on eBay. You already have the Nikon lens, so maybe the 50mm wouldn't be right for you, but I'm sure that you could find a decent wide-angle or something for a sliver of the price that you'd pay for the E-mount lens. Good luck! Let me know if you have any more questions.

There is no good cheap adapter. You can have good or cheap but not both.

Bad (no autofocus or aperture control) + cheap ($15): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VVZ4A8G/

Okay (aperture control, AF works decent on many lenses) but a little expensive ($100): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9BKLX8

Good (works a little better on more lenses) but expensive ($400): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716RHXRB/

I strongly advise you to sell the Canon lens and buy an equivalent Sony lens. Continuing to use Canon glass on a Sony body is going to give you endless frustration. You can get a
Sony FE 28-70mm f/3.5-5.6 for $350ish new if you buy grey market or as low as $240 used.

Even with a top of the line Metabones adapter, you're going to have issues with autofocus speed and reliability. It's really not worth using adapters unless you have a significant collection of glass already or the lens to need just doesn't exist on Sony.

Plus as others have said, that lens is crop and your body is full frame. The Canon lens is worth more to you as cash towards a Sony lens than it is as a lens.

Hey /u/M1K194 You should consider using an adapter with vintage manual focus prime lenses. These lenses often have solid optical performance and are easy to find online. I would recommend you purchase an adapter similar to this one and a Canon FD mount prime lens such as this Canon FD 28mm f/2, or this Canon FD 50mm f/1.4. Using this setup you can get good low light performance without breaking the bank. All together the adapter and two lenses would be less than $300.
I hope this was helpful. Happy shooting!

I got a body from Amazon warehouse deals for $385 a few weeks ago. It said the screen was scratched but I didn't notice any issues. (Looks like prices went up a little though).

Lenses: I just bought an adapter for some old manual focus Canon FD lenses I had laying around. The adapter was $15 and the 3 lenses probably cost me $100ish on eBay.

So I just bought an SD card, 2 batteries, and a dual charger for another ~$50.

I do plan on getting newer lenses later, but so far I'm enjoying the manual set up. A lot of bang for your buck.

Focus peaking can make it easier to focus manually. It highlights what's in focus like this.

You can get a cheap, 3-6 year old used mirrorless camera, 16-20 megapixels with manual controls and electronic viewfinder (important!) for $150. That is without a lens. You can get a $10-15 adapter from amazon (I've used the Fotasy brand) and use just about any cheapo 50mm thrift store lens (provided you get the correct mount adapter).
Camera: https://www.keh.com/shop/sony-a3000-digital-camera-body-20-1-m-p-672701.html
Adapter, for old canon lenses: https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-NEX-VG30-NEX-VG900-NEX-FS100-NEX-FS700/dp/B00EDBT440/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522030603&sr=1-2&keywords=fotasy%2Be%2Bmount&th=1
Cameras have never been cheaper or better, and when you buy used... well it's like buying a luxury car. The vast majority of depreciation has already taken place. If she has a "garbage" phone, it's more likely to kill her interest in the hobby. Especially since only recent versions of android have the ability to adjust the camera controls manually & shoot raw files. I'd suggest paying for some baseline hardware instead of lessons (youtube should have everything you need, lesson-wise, for free). With pay lessons, you're out money if she decides not to "stick with it." With hardware, you can re-sell it or use it yourself or re-gift it to someone else who wants to explore photography. And the image quality will be 10x better.

Good luck.

I have an a6000, and am hoping to get an a7ii in the coming months. I have a question regarding adapters for legacy glass. Any insights on the difference between the $99 Metabones adapter, the $29 Fotodiox adapter, and the $17 Foatsy adapter? Is it all just build quality? Or something else?

Also any recommendation for a fast prime telephoto somewhere in the 90-200mm range? I've been looking at Canon FD/FL but I'm open to anything really!

Thanks in advance for your time! :)

Thanks for putting my mind at ease but https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y302CG?tag=briasmitphot-20 says explicitly at the bottom of the product description:
Compatible Cameras (Including, but not limited to): Sony Alpha a7, a7r, NEX-3, NEX-5, NEX-C3, NEX-5N, NEX-7, NEX-F3, NEX-5R, NEX-6, NEX-VG10, NEX-VG20, NEX-VG30, NEX-VG900, NEX-FS100, NEX-FS700, NEX-EA50

Actual product packaging and contents may differ from image shown due to packaging or product updates by manufacturer.

NOTE: This adapter will NOT fit on the Sony a7S, a7 II, a7S II, and a7R II. However, in the questions answered people say they are using it with the a7II just fine. But then Fotodiox says: This will fit Sony A7II (aka ICLE-7M2; E-mount; full frame). I am currently using it on A7II with a Canon FD 20mm f2.8.
Maybe this will help - https://www.fotodioxpro.com/fotodiox-canon-fd-new-fd-fl-lens-to-sony-alpha-nex-e-mount-camera-lens-mount-adapter.html
By Sri on October 6, 2015
This adapter is designed for Sony E-Mount lenses. The A7II uses Sony FE-Mount lenses for a full frame sensor.
By SomeGuy on October 6, 2015
yes
By Dustin W. on October 6, 2015
As stated in our listing: NOTE: This adapter will NOT fit on the Sony a7s, a7 II, or a7 RII
By fotodiox Inc. on October 6, 2015

Always so confused with Sony... what adapter do you use with your FD lenses? could you link to amazon brother?

This adapter.

Look here for lenses.

From the above link, I would look for 24 or 28mm 2.8 lenses. It doesn't matter if they are non AI, AI, or AI-S, since that's only an issue for people who own Nikon bodies. The cheapest will be the 28mm f/2.8 E series, followed by the non-AI, then AI-S lenses. They are all fine on your camera, but the AI-S is arguably the best. As for KEH, even their ugly lenses are quite good, and I highly recommend buying from them.

Just remember, you will be in full manual mode. That means setting the f-stop yourself, in addition to the focus. If you plan on buying more than one, I'd also suggest buying an adapter ring for each one, so you spend less time unscrewing/screwing.

It depends what you are using it for and what requirements you have. The Metabones are great, but pricey.

My Canon glass never comes out of manual focus, so i just got a cheaper Fotodiox adapter.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Camera-Photo/Fotodiox-EF-Sny-Fusion-Adapter-EOS-E-Mount-Camera/B00D9BKLX8

It's been absolutely fine on everything I've put on it (which is quite a lot). No issues at all, in fact less than I read some people have with their Metabones.

If you're looking for better AF then you might want to consider something else, but also, if you want good AF, adapting lenses isn't the way to go.

what camera do you have? and what lenses?

The best macro you will get on the cheap is using a reverse ring filter or

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Reverse-Camera-Adapter-filter/dp/B001G4NBSC/

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Extension-Cameras-Extreme-Close-ups/dp/B003Y5T464


good luck

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004WIMB9E/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I remember I'll post some sample images too. It's not great, but on my copy the center really is pretty decent, and I'd use it for portraits maybe. It's $25 for a lens so if you like swirly bokeh it's probably worth it.

I'm surprised I haven't seen more recommendations for macro extension tubes.

https://www.amazon.com/Kenko-Auto-Extension-Canon-Mount/dp/B000U8Y88M

I eventually purchased the Canon 100mm macro and the Laowa 25mm f/2.8 2.5-5x, but before that, the extension tubes let me really play with Macro photography and get some good shots. There are a lot of limitations (aka, shallow depth of field) to Macro photography that it will behoove you to get some practice with. Especially once you go with higher magnification.

I had these before, but I accidentally threw them away :(

I never even got to use them! My friend, that I went to school with (natch for Photography) got them at the same time and she said they're amazing and that I need to got them. I recently received this amazing piece of equipment and it would really help me use it to its full potential!!!

Also, you get lenses pretty cheap that look really good and it's also a good way learning the principles of photography such as aperture and shutter speed and ISO. Because they are full manual.

You can get Canon FD lenses for cheap with an adapter:

Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-AMFD-Thirds-System-Adapter/dp/B003MDWG68

Example lenses:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vivitar-Canon-FD-28mm-f-2-8-FD-Lens-For-For-Canon-/122244785827?hash=item1c765b66a3:g:E4AAAOSwcUBYO624

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-FD-50mm-f-1-8-Lens-/232156965357?hash=item360da229ed:g:ePQAAOSwB09YOwh~

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quantaray-Canon-FD-70-210mm-f-4-0-5-6-FD-Lens-For-Canon-/291956781588?hash=item43f9faf214:g:Je4AAOSwcLxYEt2a

And these are just some examples, I wouldn't pay more than $100 for an old Canon FD lens.

Ah, okay... so it seems like cheap tubes like this one don't have wiring built in, while pricier ones like this one do.

It seems like it would be so simple to just have the electrical connections, the cheaper ones could do it...

Oh wait, here's a cheap one with the stuff built in.

Gonna kinda buck the system. I bought a D3200 with the 18-55 and 55-200 kit lenses. For macro shots, I bought this reversing ring that I put onto the 18-55, and it's pretty fun to play with. I also grabbed this aperture ring sui that I wouldn't have to hold the little finger by hand.

Obviously this isn't really a professional setup, but it does everything I need, and takes plenty good quality pictures for me.

They would adapt to anything with a shorter flange distance.

So something like a Sony NEX series would work great with an adapter like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-E-mount-NEX-VG10-Original/dp/B003Y302CG

I am using M42, Leica M, and Pentax K mount lenses on my NEX-5N.

You can get a $10-$15 adapter and use canon fd or Minolta rokkor lenses. These vintage lenses can be bought pretty cheap on eBay.

The cheapest option would be this, Fotasy M2514 25MM F1.4 TV Movie Lens and Lens Adapter Kit for Olympus Panasonic MFT Micro 4/3 M43 Cameras https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004WIMB9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uX0IAbGGKD8Z3. It’s a 25mm cctv lens, so you’ll get the same field of view is as the 25 1.7. I know it’s pretty easy to have issues with these lenses and adapters though. It is only $32.

If you know what to look for, you can get a good older dedicated macro lens for less than a hundred.

The oldest Nikon "F" lenses do not work on most any modern Nikon camera. So, they tend to be some of the cheapest good quality lenses.

http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Manual-Focus-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-NK060090331510?r=FE

Pick up one, plus a $10-$30 F-to-EOS filter, and you're all set.

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-07LAnkeos-Mount-Adapter-Camera/dp/B001G4QXLE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1371055469&sr=8-2&keywords=f-to-eos+adapter

Just recently started getting into photography because of how influential it is in design (so please take what I say as a grain of salt). To start things off, photography in general is more equipment heavy than graphic design I will say. A lot of people will argue that you can replicate any photo style on any camera, but I typically disagree with this.

With that being said, price points can also be a be a bit subjective and relate with your experience level. A professional might consider a $1,500 lens to be cheap, while newcomers might find spending $1,000+ on a full kit to be expensive.

I might be a bit biased as it was the first camera I've ever bought, but I personally love Sony cameras! While Cannon, Nikon and Pentax have made names for themselves, Sony is quickly catching up with their market. In general, Sony's line of cameras are extremely universal, with their e-mount lenses the possibilities are endless. They've even provided lens adapters for many of the top camera companies, if you ever wanted to buy additional lenses.

My first camera was a Sony A6000, and I highly recommend it as a beginner level camera! They have a more updated Sony A6300, but it's entirely up to you and what you plan on using it for.

i was thinking of picking up one of these: link

it isn't chipped, but it would work fine for the pc lenses i would think? I already have a nifty 50 for the canon, and it works well enough that i don't think i'd be hopping to use the 50 1.4 for much since it is manual focus.

you need a FD to E-Mount they also go by FD to NEX adaptors. I bought this one for a FD 50mm 1.8 and it works great. I even used it on some Vivitar lens a friend found and it also worked.

https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-NEX-VG30-NEX-VG900-NEX-FS100-NEX-FS700/dp/B00EDBT440/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1510258353&sr=8-3&keywords=fd+to+e+mount&dpID=41qOUoV4bWL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Thanks for the advice. I believe this one would work correctly, right?

Fotodiox Pro Lens Mount Auto Adapter - Canon EOS (EF / EF-S) D/SLR Lens to Canon EOS M (EF-M Mount) Mirrorless Camera Body - with Full Automated Functions https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D9BKWEQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O..gDbYVHK8RP

Also, would it change the focusing at all with the ef lenses? I have some rolleiflex lenses that I adapted to my canon ef system and the farthest they can focus is like 10m away, but not infinity, because they can’t be put any closer to the sensor. Would this also happen while adapting ef lenses to ef m, or would it work at the same focus lengths.

Thanks!

I like to search ebay for FD lenses under $50 with a Buy-It-Now price. You can find perfectly good third-party FD lenses for dirt cheap. And FD - E mount adapters are about $13 a piece on Amazon.

Get extra batteries! And if you want to experiment with a fun dirt cheap lens, I enjoyed this very much https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-M2514-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic/dp/B004WIMB9E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1493324879&sr=8-4&keywords=lens+25mm

(Extremely stylized, cool look)

Si pentru /u/beer_and_pain

Daca vrei sa ai niste wow moments ia un obiectiv decent de 50mm f1/8

E cea mai buna chestie pe care o poti cumpara pentru aparatul tau.

in plus poti sa iei ceva de genul : https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Reverse-Camera-Adapter-filter/dp/B001G4NBSC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536862281&sr=1-1&keywords=Fotodiox+52mm+Macro+Reverse+Ring+Camera+Mount+Adapter+for+using+Nikon+SLR+Camera+and+lens+with+52mm+filter+thread si ai o lentila macro bestiala (fara autofocus dar e tot wow).

I have this adapter for my Nikon 1.4 full manual glass. Works really well and for video I prefer my Nikon lens over my Canon Nifty Fifty.

I wouldn't mind most adapters as long as they don't need glass adapters. Meaning I wouldn't get FD glasses for EF mounts.

So far, I know, this is what works quite well for video and without losing focus to infinity:

Nikon lens -> EF Mount

EF Lens -> M43 Mount

Nikon Lens ->M43 Mount

Pentax Lens -> EF Mount

This is based on fully manual lens though.

I have a Sony NEX-5n and my favorite lens is a Canon FD 50mm f/1.8 via a cheap fotodiox FD -> NEX adapter. I just ordered a Zenit Helios 44-2 58mm f/2 and I plan on buying a NEX -> FD focal reducer / speed booster. Sorry for the messy set up lol.

Would using a M42 (helios) TO FD adapter ON an FD to NEX adapter be too much distance from the sensor? The M42 to FD is meant to be mounted to an FD body, so I assume the distance provided by the FD -> NEX adapter would suffice so that adding an admittedly thin M42 -> FD adapter ON that wouldn't hinder focus distance too much?? I researched this for a bit but couldn't really find anything.

this is my adapter I've had for years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y302CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the M42 to FD adapter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/221942704552?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

Thanks

If you want wide AND cheap, look no further:
https://www.amazon.com/Olympus-Fisheye-BCL-0980-Micro-Cameras/dp/B00I19TVU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479103361&sr=8-1&keywords=olympus+body+cap+lens

The amazing Olympus 9mm F8 bodycap lens! ~85$ gets you a nice fish-eye that doubles as a bodycap. Two for one!

The optical quality isn't great but it DOES work and that's the important thing. They're fun lenses to shoot on. I've got both the 15mm and the 9mm and it's incredible how tiny they are.

Thanks for the advice - I'm in a similar situation as OP.

I just heard about the Viltrox speedbooster as a comparable yet inexpensive alternative to the metabones. Do you have any thoughts on it? I know a big part of the M43 form factor is, well, the size, but do you think it would be suitable for those who may want to expand their inventory of lenses to other mounts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079M4W8MQ/?coliid=I1FOIF5LACOBF0&colid=3T2Z870V2UKDE&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Its a good camera. The only thing I wouldn't like is the lack of a viewfinder.

As for lenses, you might want to check out the Sony 50 f1.8 for low light images. Any third party alternative would work for that as well.

For example:

http://www.keh.com/camera/Canon-Manual-Focus-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-CA0601040019706?r=FE

and

http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-E-Mount-Camera-NEX-5N/dp/B003Y302CG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1396994347&sr=1-1&keywords=fd+to+nex

Any adapter from FD to NEX E mount will work though. That one is kind of pricy.

Fd lenses: http://www.keh.com/Camera/format-35mm/system-Canon-Manual-Focus/category-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses?s=1&bcode=CA&ccode=6&cc=3115&r=WG&f


Huge list of used lenses:

http://www.keh.com/camera/format-35mm?s=1&bc=39

You could get a GH3, however that wouldn't leave you much money left over for a lens, let alone all the other bits you need.

The camera is one of three parts that make up a quality production; you also need to consider sound and lighting.

If you're just experimenting, then you could go for this little combination:

• Canon EOS-M with 22mm F2.0 lens - $365
  
  
• Limostudio photography CFL 3 point kit - $55
  
  
• Rode Videomic - $150
  
  
• Magnus VT-4000 - $150
  
  
• EF to EF-M Adapter - $60
  
  
• Canon EF 50mm f1.8 - $120
  
  That leaves you about $40 for media and spare batteries. The links are for illustrative purposes - shop around to find better prices and you can save even more!
  

> Canon EF 75-300mm

A crap lens to begin with, definitely worse than your 55-210.

> EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

Basically a worse version of your 16-50.

> Canon EF 85mm f/1.8

Excellent if you want to do portraits. You need an adapter to fit that (and the others) on your camera. It just attaches to your camera like a lens, and allows Canon lens to fit. You want a EF (or EOS) to E mount (or NEX) adapter. They vary in price quite a bit based on if you want autofocus or not, as well as build quality.

You need something like this, this, or this. If you don't care about autofocus and only want to use the 85 (again the other 2 are worse versions of what you have), this or this would work just as well.

I haven't tried that lens / camera combination myself, but there is a chance autofocus is slow / inaccurate enough to be borderline unusable, so you'd have to manual focus.

That comparable lens in a Sony mount is around $600, which would likely be somewhat sharper, but quite a bit quicker and more accurate autofocus. You could also get a lens that does something similar for about $250.

USB to laptop with this for the 500D. Camera to telescope with this for the 500D. Good Luck!

I've used these:

M42
PentaxK
Nikon

and have gotten pretty good results shooting video with my 60D.

Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.

This comment contains 3 pricing graph(s)

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Imgur pricing graph

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Product 2: Metabones Speed Booster XL 0.64x Adapter for Full-Frame Canon EF-Mount Lens to Select Micro Four Thirds-Mount Cameras (B011GEMHU4)

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^^I'm ^^a ^^bot. ^^Please ^^PM ^^any ^^bugs

For video, I'd go with the canon t3i with the magiclantern firmware: http://vimeo.com/30803116

That being said, Nikon has the 35mm f/1.8, to which Canon really has no comparably priced option (except the too-long in APS-C nifty fifty). A very popular kit is a Canon body with old Nikon lenses via an adapter like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Mount-Adapter-Camera-Digital/dp/B001G4QXLE

for skateboarding videos, you may wish to go full manual focus since the subjects will be moving around a lot, with deep focus (stopped down aperture).
...
Mounting inexpensive wide-angle manual lenses from 20+ years ago using adapters (eg. Canon FD to 4/3rds adapter) and using those cheaper, older manual lenses (tons at used camera shops, ebay, keh.com) can allow you to build a lens kit cheap. A benefit of the 4/3rds format on the G7.

eg. https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Adapter-Olympus-Panasonic-Cameras/dp/B003EAVUMK?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

eg https://www.keh.com/shop/canon-20mm-f-2-8-fd-mount-lens-72-canon-20mm-f-2-8-fd-mount-lens-72.html
20mm Canon FD manual lens $238
20mm Canon EF auto lens $539
...but this isn't the best example because the Lumix 20mm is only $269
http://shop.panasonic.com/cameras-and-camcorders/lumix-camera-lenses/H-H020A.html

But you get the idea.

...

Also, look at Olympus lenses in addition to Panasonic lenses in the 4/3rds format. Compatible, and often Olympus lenses are higher quality.

http://m43.co/best-micro-four-thirds-lenses-the-ultimate-guide/
http://www.cameralabs.com/lenses/lens_buyers_guide/Micro_Four_Thirds_lenses/Recommended_MFT_lenses.shtml
http://m43photo.blogspot.com/2011/09/lens-buyers-guide.html

...

and olympus has unique lens cap sized lenses.
http://admiringlight.com/blog/review-olympus-15mm-f8-body-cap-lens/2/
http://www.photographyblog.com/reviews/olympus_9mm_f_8_fisheye_body_cap_review/

Macro is one of the most technical sides of photography, a good starter lens is the 100mm macro from canon http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004XOM3?pc_redir=1410422622&robot_redir=1

If you want more magnification after that you can add extension tubes to the lens, but then is getting hard to manage the focus of the lens and the working distance can be awkward http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000U8Y88M?pc_redir=1410295973&robot_redir=1

Finally if what you are really after is a microscope like magnification the 65mm macro from canon will do the trick, This is a highly specialised lens and I will not recommend it to a beginner. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00009XVD5/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1410489652&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40