Reddit mentions: The best camera lens supports

We found 52 Reddit comments discussing the best camera lens supports. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 18 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

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🎓 Reddit experts on camera lens supports

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where camera lens supports are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Camera Lens Supports:

u/hipomino · 1 pointr/videography

So, if you're on a tight budget I would suggest trying the Nikon manual focus lenses. I had the 50, 35, and the 105. They are good lenses but I had my issues with them. They focus backwards, to go to infinity you rotate the focus ring the opposite way of nearly every other lens. They also have a distinct bokeh, it's not bad, just not my taste. They are cheap and really easy to come by.

To declick lenses you should only need a good set of precision set of screwdrivers. I have these
You can look up declicking specific lenses on Google.

I also purchased [this](Neewer Professional Flat & pointhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6O92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPn1xbT6E3FVK) so I could take off the front element of the lens if it needed cleaning. Totally not necessary for cine modding but fun to take apart lenses.

You can buy focus gears from all kinds of places online. There are plenty of choices and prices. I buy mine from followfocus gears.com they aren't cheap, but they are seamless, and are 3D printed for specific lenses. They fit perfectly.

For the adapters, I've had some good luck with fotodiox in the past. They are relatively cheap. Sometimes they don't fit as snuggly as they should and that is a problem. With my 105mm when I would touch the lens to focus the lens would physically move side to side and the image would shift. Not good for video. For my contax set I purchase Leitax adapters that actually screw on the the existing mount so they can't shift at all.

For you I suggest you getting a cheap 50mm and try it out. You don't need to buy the gears or declick right away. Just get a lens and an adapter and see how you like it. Stay away from Canon FD lenses as you need an adapter with a glass element in it to focus to infinity. It's not worth the hassle and hard to find a good quality adapter with out breaking the bank.

u/Hellvis · 6 pointsr/AnalogCommunity

That looks a little like fungus but it could just be a horrendous amount of dust. It doesn't look like the typical haze which tends to be really even. I just took an Elmar apart last week to clean it. It's really easy.

You need a set of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HFYKK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRPWCN0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The rubber cups unscrew the black central ring on the front of the lens. That frees the trim ring with the name on it, a tension washer and a spacer underneath. Then you can spin the lens out with the spanner.

Once it's out you can open the aperture all the way and carefully clean the inside of the rear element group with a q-tip moistened with naptha (lighter fluid). Do the same for the front element. Clean them up with a microfiber cloth and reassemble. You'll still have dust inside but it'll be way way less. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly. Go slow. This lens is easy to take apart so if you don't like how it looks when you get done it's easy to redo it. Be careful around the aperture. It's likely you'll get some naptha on it when cleaning the lens. Just let it dry (open and close it a bunch of times) before reassembly.

edit - this is a great lens. Well worth cleaning.

u/IntrospectiveFilms · 1 pointr/bmpcc

Your biggest issue is that the center of mass is way off which is going to wear out your arms faster than if your camera body was directly mounted on top of your shoulder pad. You want to have the bulk of the weight of your rig actually resting square on your shoulder.

If you counter weight your rig correctly it should actually center itself without you holding the handle bars, (obviously don't shoot this way) especially with that long and heavy lens you have. This should be the first adjustment you make. This change would allow you to shoot for hours as opposed to minutes at a time. Gravity + time will tire out the strongest among us.

As far as lens shifting that is actually normal on a longer lens and a non-locking mount. You'll want to look into accessories like:

SMALLRIG Lens Mount Adapter Support for Metabones, Compatible with BMPCC 4K Cage - 2247 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXVBBN3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SDAYDbJTKH87N

SMALLRIG Universal Lens Support with 15mm LWS Rod Clamp for Diameter 50mm to 140mm Lens - 1784 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GZRS9XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dCAYDbDQSQ9PT

SMALLRIG Universal Lens Support Bracket Quick Release with Rod Clamp Lens - 2152 [https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OL102/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_apa\_iAs\]](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4OL102/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_iAs])

As far as your monitor situation, I would honestly go the EVF route, especially when shoulder rigging it outdoors. It's a more expensive solution but it will save you a ton of stress and decrease the likelihood that you miss focus on a shot in the bright sun. I tried the 7" field monitor solution but it just didn't get the job done well and it added more front heavy weight to the rig, which meant I had to counter weight the back and then I had a very net heavy rig.

I also highly recommend the Tilta Nucleus Nano follow focus system. It's affordable, dependable, and it's wireless, which opens up a ton of mounting (or non mounting) possibilities, which would consequently allow that matte box to get closer to the lens. I think otherwise you're going to continuously struggle with the manual FF obstructing the matte box. Because the wheel has to be in proximity of the gear ring, you're very limited on where you can place the wheel on your rig. The Nano throws that issue right out the window.

A cheaper work around would be to get a lens hood for your lens so it extends out a bit further and can butt up against the donut in the matte box. I have actually used a set of step up rings in the past to accomplish a similar feat.

u/mcarterphoto · 1 pointr/analog

An extension tube beats a macro lens if you don't already have one - even a cheap Amazon or eBay thing is fine, since there's no optics. For me, a 50mm lens and a 25mm tube is perfect on an APS-C camera.

Camera raw vs. scanning software: I'm no scanning expert, but I've shot some E6 slides with a Nikon DSLR and been really amazed at the detail you can pull out.

If I were going to really dive into it (I'm much more into printing), I'd get a cheap 15mm rail setup and a cheaper 15mm lens support and drill/tap the support to hold a stack of white plex and clear glass. You could do up to 4x5 with something like that.

u/HybridCamRev · 2 pointsr/videography

/u/Grey-Alien - in this price class, I have been very satisfied with SmallRig and Photography & Cinema products.

With a $1000 budget, I recommend a [$78 SmallRig X-T2 cage] (https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Video-Camera-Fujifilm-Mount/dp/B06XRBPZ42/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$19.99 SmallRig articulated monitor arm] (https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Articulating-Rosette-Standard-Threaded/dp/B00NW6HO2G//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), a [$249.99 Photography & Cinema PR-1 Shoulder Rig] (https://www.amazon.com/VALUE-Photography-Cinema-Shoulder-camera/dp/B00A2WTNZE//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) (you can remove the shoulder mount section and handles when it's on a tripod) plus a [$22 SmallRig lens support] (https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Support-Height-Adjustable-Telephoto/dp/B01N1Q0UQL//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) for your XF50-140.

This setup will give you high quality components for a reasonable price - and allow you to mount everything you need on your camera.

Hope this is helpful and good luck with your conference shoot!

u/benskate · 4 pointsr/skateboarding

If anyone is interested in the camera set up be ready to be disapointed:

iPhone 5S with 120fps mode with This fisheye lens

Honestly for 8 dollars the thing does pretty well

u/FishesInTheOcean · 3 pointsr/bmpcc

Yes :) here they are:

Handle: link

Mounting plate: link

Manfrotto Quick Release Plate : link

Follow focus: link

Rods(16" & 6") link

Handlegrip: link

Lens support: link

Shoulder pad: link

Rod clamp: link

Cold Shoe mount: link

To hold the battery I used this rod clamp: link and this plate: link

Battery: link

To connect the battery to the BMPCC 4k I used these cables and the charging cable from the camera to make an adapter: link to cables

Magic arm to hold the monitor: link

Samsung SSD 500gb: link

SSD holder: link

Monitor: link

HDMI cable: link

BMPCC 4k cage: link

I'm using the Sigma 18-35mm (Nikon) and the Viltrox 0.71X Lens Mount Adapter: link

I think that's it :)

u/jku2017 · 2 pointsr/flashlight

I'll let ya in on a little modders secret :) this tool will be your best friend

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6ZI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_h5hCDbK7EP89N

u/FeistyPotato · 173 pointsr/interestingasfuck

Its surprising how what is basically just a cheap, tiny magnifying glass can help produce such remarkable pictures on a phone. I captured this image of a caterpillar that had water droplets on it with my iPhone 5 and a cheap macro lens.

EDIT: Here is the lens for those curious. It also comes with wide angle and fisheye.

u/MarkusFromTheLab · 2 pointsr/AnalogCommunity

I got a set like this Neewer Professional Spanner from Amazon, not great but worked well for me so far. Also used it on a few lenses with success.

u/gb0n · 2 pointsr/minolta

I can give you a partial answer.

The tool for a screw with two holes is called a spanner. You can get them pretty cheaply on Amazon or at other places. (E.g. this item.) Or you can improvise by using, say, two nails and a pair of pliers.

Seals, including the mirror bumper, are easy. If you e-mail Jon Goodman (jon_goodman@yahoo.com), he'll sell you a properly cut set for your camera and will provide a very good set of instructions. For about $10.

u/jeffk42 · 6 pointsr/AnalogCommunity

Use a curved spanner. You can push the two ends close enough together so that the sharp points both go into the holes, and then twist counterclockwise.

This is a great tool to have if you do any repairs later, particularly on lenses. So consider it an investment. :)

u/bulksalty · 1 pointr/photography

They're lenses for adding on to fixed lens video camcorders (that one appears to be a wide angle converter). Like a reverse tele-converter. On amazon, new, they go for about 20-30 USD. Brands don't always mean much in third party optics, many big makers will sell the same optic to a variety of different brands to resell, so if you see similar items near you for sale used from brands like Vivitar (that don't manufacture their own optics) or a store brand, price near those.

Because of their use, figure out what filter thread size it fits on (it should be listed in milometers, and may have a Ø character near it)

u/B_Huij · 3 pointsr/photography

If you're talking about this:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-pointed-Spanner-Repairing/dp/B00J5F6O92

I use that exact one all the time and it is great. I have repaired several old "junker" cameras that basically just needed to have the leaf shutter removed and flushed out with some solvent to get them working like new again.

u/ItsMeEntropy · 1 pointr/photography

Looks like you'll want something like this.

Though I will say if you're getting significant sagging with the 18-35 1.8, a cheap ballhead/tripod is probably the problem. These lens supports are meant for even heavier lenses (think telephotos, like the old 80-200 2.8 which had no collar). What tripod are you using?

u/mz-s · 2 pointsr/analog

You can try a filter wrench (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAPdfGZK6GY).

I would use a small file or saw blade to cut two grooves in the filter ring adapter, and then use a spanner wrench (something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Stainless-Spanner-Opening/dp/B00J5F6ZI2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1483806955&sr=8-10&keywords=spanner+wrench) to twist it off. Be very careful not to damage anything else. Goes without saying that the filter adapter won't be usable again once it's off with this method - not that it matters most likely.

u/G4M3F4C3 · 2 pointsr/InvertPets

If you're just using your phone camera, you'll need to experiment with different light sources and positions until you find something that allows it to focus properly. You could also grab a cheap macro lens off like this off of amazon

u/fellfromthesky · 3 pointsr/Tools

I think you're going to need something like this.

Edit: Here's one from Amazon. Double check how wide the ring is, though. The tool only goes down to a 5mm diameter.

u/djburkes · 1 pointr/flashlight

Maybe something like this?

u/FredzL · 1 pointr/robotics

You could also use a splitter to get a stereo image from the single camera like : https://www.amazon.com/Aibote-Universal-Photograph-Stereoscopic-Smartphones/dp/B07BR14Q3V

u/harborfright · 1 pointr/livesound

There’s actually a tool for this, it’s called a Spanner Wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5F6ZI2

That said, the big flathead solution mentioned above is what I’ve always used.

u/fred0x · 2 pointsr/analog
  1. Looks like there are some different viewfinders available for the LX. If you want to keep a flat top search for 'Pentax FF1'
  2. Your looking for a spanner wrench. I use an old sliding caliper right now but started with pointy tweezers.
u/Captain_Ahbvious · 1 pointr/parrotbebop

I ordered this however the lens is much smaller and getting it to focus is kinda hard. It still turned out ok but you just have that feeling that it’s not the same.

u/jdead121 · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

You can try buying a camera lens vise, although I'm skeptical of how well they will work. see - https://www.amazon.com/DSLRKIT-Repair-Filter-Ajustment-Steel/dp/B00SYBYTZO


In terms of repair, I had the same thing happen to my Sigma 16 f1.4, it cost me $60 (including return shipping) and they replaced the barrel and ensured the lens was still calibrated. This is for a $410-$430 lens. I am not sure how much Zeiss/Sony charges, but I'm going to guess its more.

u/cyp22 · 4 pointsr/GH5

Hi I had the same problem and got one like this https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Camera-Repair-Adjustment-Construction/dp/B07NJS1RML/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Lens+Vise+Tool+Repair+Filter&qid=1568493376&sr=8-2 that solved my problem. Just be carefull with the lens elements . But it was a metal lens though.