Reddit mentions: The best camera & photo filters

We found 863 Reddit comments discussing the best camera & photo filters. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 443 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

16. Tiffen 52mm UV Protection Filter

Most popular protection filterProvides basic reduction of ultraviolet lightHelps eliminate bluish cast in images52 millimeters diameter
Tiffen 52mm UV Protection Filter
Height0.9 Inches
Length4.5 Inches
Number of items1
Weight0.0220462262 Pounds
Width3.4 Inches
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🎓 Reddit experts on camera & photo filters

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where camera & photo filters are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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u/oh_lord · 8 pointsr/photography

One of the cool things about lighting is that you can create light with a variety of different things, so you can really play to your budget really well. As others have recommended, if she's serious about learning to light, tell her to check out Strobist, read his tutorials, buy his DVDs, the like. She'll learn a ton and David Hobby is a great writer. His blog is awesome, too.

As for a basic setup, she'll need some sort of light source, a diffuser (or light modifier or some sort), and some way of triggering that light if it's a strobe. That's the very basic setup. Fortunately for her, she can do this for $10, $20, $50, $100, or $1000. Whatever she (you) are willing to spend on it.

If she's trying to do it on the cheap, she can grab a lamp from Ikea (match the type of the bulb with the type of lighting the food will be in. If she's in a kitchen with flurorescent lighting, get a fluroescent lamp), a work light in a clamp, etc, some paper (try tracing paper or wax paper as it's more translucent), and some tape. Stretch the paper out so that it covers a nice area, tape it up to some boxes or something so it stands, and shine the light through it so it's nice and evenly lit. The only thing that affects the "softness" of light is the size of the light source, so the paper is useful for spreading out the focus of the bulb in your lamp and giving you a nice big source. Be creative, move the lamps around, try layering on the paper or removing the paper. Just play with it and see what works. She'll probably need a tripod and a slower shutter speed though, since these lights aren't incredibly bright. Here's another idea using the same equipment for inspiration.

Moving up in the budget, she can start to explore the world of flash photography, and start playing with strobes. These cheap YongNuo Flashes (and there are other models that are great, too) are surprisingly good, reliable, and cheap! I own a few and use them all the time. They come with stands, but she could tape them up around for better angles. Just one of these off camera, or angled properly can make her photoghraphy stunning. Start by placing them off to the side, aimed at the food, and triggering them with the on-camera flash and the strobes set to "optical slave" mode. Tell her to turn down the on-camera flash power to very low as to not give the food a bland look, and just use it to trigger the off-camera flash. Exposure here gets a little more tricky, without going on a huge rant (I could if you want, just let me know), but she should be able to figure it out. Start on low power, and dial it in more and more until she gets the look she's going for. Then, start experimenting and playing more! Use that same paper as before for a quick and dirty diffuser, or, if you want even bigger, softer, light for free, crank the power and shoot it onto the ceiling. The reflection will give her a great, even light source that compliments nearly everything nicely. Play with the built-in diffuser too, bouncing off different things, etc. Shoot, see what works, have fun, and learn. There's a lot to learn, and she'll learn best by just throwing things at the wall and seeing what sticks. Just make sure she's having fun and not stressing too much! If she needs more help, just throw me a question, google around, or post to this forum. Someone will be able to help.

From there, she can keep expanding upwards. More flashes, umbrellas, light stands (make sure she has all the necessary hot-shoe adapters, or umbrella mounts she might need), snoots, grid spots, and other sort of modifiers she might want to get the look she's going for. Worth noting that most things here can be made with some creativity and some crafty DIY work.

Oh, I'd also urge she get a set (or two) of gels for her lights, mainly the CTO (colour temperature orange) and CTG (colour temperature blue) so she can match the colour of her lights to whatever the ambient light is.

Hopefully this helps. If you have any questions or need more help, just let me know. :)

u/ezraekman · 2 pointsr/photography

As most people here have mentioned, paper is going to be the easiest to deal with for solid colors. The best thing about paper is that if you scuff, crinkle, or tear it, you just cut off that section and unroll it some more. It's cheap enough to not worry about, and super-easy to work with. No cleaning (like vinyl), and no worrying about permanent footprints. A 36-foot roll of paper in most colors will run you about $40 for 53" or $60 for 107" width. You mentioned groups, so I'd recommend a 107" roll to avoid running out of room. 53" is really just for individuals, groups, and pets or products. Here are a few other things to consider:

Are you always shooting at home, or does your backdrop need to be mobile?

I have two sets of triple-rollers set up in my studio. They can be found for around $70 on Amazon, and can be wall-mounted or ceiling-mounted. Each set lets me mount 3 different rolls, and I have one set for 53" rolls and one for 107" rolls. If I want to switch colors, I just pull on the chain to raise one and lower another. To swap out a color, it only takes a couple of minutes.

For mobile situations, get yourself a backdrop crossbar and a pair of light stands. If you only use them once in a while, you can again find them on Amazon for around $40. But if you plan to use them consistently, I'd recommend getting something sturdier. Westcott makes a really nice 13-foot stand for around $80 each (you'll need two), and their crossbar is around $90, though some cheaper crossbars can be found for roughly half that. You can spend less on a smaller stand, but I wouldn't recommend it; anything smaller or cheaper loses a lot of stability. These stands will last you forever, are still cheap enough to not worry about it too much, and are fully usable as actual light stands in case you decide to start working with off-camera lighting later.


I'd also recommend 2-3 sandbags for each stand to reduce the risk of someone kicking them over. We live in a litigious country; don't get sued. You can buy empty sandbags pretty cheap (about $20 for 4 on Amazon) and then fill them with $5, 50-lb bags of playground sand from your local hardware store.

How are you using your backdrop?

For either of these scenarios, you'll need some way to keep the background down, as it tends to curl. Your local hardware store carries simple spring clamps for about a buck apiece, and 3-4 of those at each corner and in the middle will keep things stable. I'd recommend picking up a few extras as they're crazy-cheap, and great for keeping your backdrop from unrolling if you aren't using a roller system with resistance.

If you're looking for something seamless, you should also consider a roll of gaffers tape (or blue painter's tape, if you're trying to save money) to keep your paper on the floor, in case you want to create a sweep. In case you aren't familiar with this term, a sweep is where the background makes a rounded, 90-degree turn at the floor, resulting in a seamless background with no "corner". It's how you get those images where your subject is isolated against a background.

What it'll cost you, total

All-told, your total cost for this setup (doing it "right") is going to run you about $300 for your supports (including clamps, tape, sandbags, etc.), or about $100 if you go with the wall/ceiling mount. Paper rolls aren't included in this. This is about as cheap as it gets to do it "right", unless you're looking at an entirely DIY solution... at which point the price can drop to 1/10th of that.

Alternatives to paper rolls

If you're looking for more interesting backgrounds, you have three main options:

  • dyed muslins
  • printed/painted muslins or vinyl
  • gelled lighting on white paper with a spare flash

    Dyed muslins will start at about $40-60 and look like these. Printed or painted ones (muslin fabric or vinyl start at $60-100 and go up from there. But if you have a spare flash, you can pick up the Rosco Strobist Collection of gels on Amazon for between $10 and $20, and then have any color background you want, with a nice, smooth gradient. You can toss it on a backward-pointing light stand behind your subjects, or backlight the backdrop from behind. Note that your camera and flash will need to support wireless triggering to do this, or you'll need some radio triggers.

    What you get out of your setup depends on what you put into it

    You can do some really interesting things with just a simple white backdrop. The biggest factor is going to be how much time you put into learning how to use it. Here's a post to get you started. Note that this article also has a link at the end to a second article about how to create interesting backgrounds using random objects in front of the flash. Definitely a good read.

    Good luck! :-)
u/Kniefjdl · 3 pointsr/airsoft

Yeah, I feel ya. Maybe it's just me, but I feel like talking about technique and composition is harder in-person, so I tend to fall into the gear talk more easily. Some of that stuff just becomes so automatic that it's hard to verbalize even when you're looking right at it. It's almost like the photographers need to do a debrief with laptops and beer to figure out what worked well the night after a game. I'd be way better at breaking down what I was thinking after a shoot than during--same goes for hearing and processing what the other photogs were working on.

Those tight shots are what I got comfortable with and stuck to for a long time. I knew they worked, so I stuck to them for a very long time. What I like to do now is get the tight shots early and make sure I have a good set of winners that I'd be happy to post. Then, I start playing around and experimenting. I definitely get more trash than keepers that way, but the keepers are so much more interesting. Forcing myself to use a wide lens (24mm on a full frame) and embedding myself within a squad also helped. It really helps to get more environmental when you can't get close, you don't really have a choice.

I like Hoya filters for burners. They're great glass at a super low price:

u/want_to_be_a_fish · 1 pointr/scuba

I'm a big fan of my GoPro Hero 4, It's been on many dives and has captured some wonderful stills and videos so I can show people why it is that I love diving so much.

One negative thing I will say about the GoPro is that it has the fish eye/wide angle lens. This is amazing for capturing most sports and activities, but less so for diving as one normally wants to be able to capture a smaller field of view. If the camera is just for diving, then it might be worth looking for something with a more narrow field of view. As I do other sports/activities for which the wide angle is beneficial, I can accept this shortcoming for diving (not wanting to have to buy two cameras).

As u/ajmpettit has said, filters are massively important. I haven't used the flip filters he suggested backscatter flip filters. I use this simple/cheap set Diving Lens Filter Kit for HERO 4 which allows you to have something for all recreational diving depths. I don't know if there is a set which allows you to easily flip/change the filter during the dive for sites which start at 20 meters and move up to 10 meters (which will require a different filter for the deeper part to the less deep part).

As others have said, it's a good "go to", you won't regret getting one as it does take good videos/pictures. You might get something better for less with the cheap Chinese brands, but at the same time you might just as easily get what you pay for. It's like the iPhone of action cameras (Android fanatics might appreciate this comparison).

As for the software, I have a love/hate relationship with the quik application, nothing makes short and snappy videos for facebook/instagram as quickly and easily. But the lack of options to modify the output manually gets frustrating quickly. I'm still exploring and trying video editing (and picture modifying) applications, but as yet I haven't found one I like.

Sample video:

  • Okinawa: Yamada Point - Diving video - created using Quik desktop (in about 10 - 15 mins). For this I was using one of the filters mentioned above.

    I have found that when including stills in a highlight real video, cropping them carefully can massively improve the end result (more fish per square inch of screen).
u/HAL_9_TRILLION · 2 pointsr/drones

Mavic Pro Platinum. The newer, quieter edition.

I had a P3S, so for range and GPS accuracy, it was an incredible upgrade for me. Not at all sure about the P3A. But I can say this, I've had my Mavic out almost two miles and while I was in the desert with open skies, I had not a single glitch in my video feed. When returning to home, it puts itself on the spot pretty close to perfectly.

Camera though, the news is not so good. Even my P3S camera was superior to the Mavic's. Better colors, no glitches and no fisheye. The Mavic has this tic that happens from time to time in the camera, like something flicked it. It might just be mine, and I can live with it, but it never happened with my P3S. The Mavic lens is tiny, there is a very slight but noticeable fisheye effect to its videos that the P3S didn't have. The video is washed out and useless without a decent set of filters. I routinely fly with an ND16. I also use the True Color profile and up the saturation slightly to get something approaching what video looked like out of the box on my P3S with an ND4. You can use D-Log and do post processing if you want pretty great results (from what I am able to gather on YouTube), but I just do not have the patience for that.

All in all, I needed a drone that wouldn't lose the video feed everytime a house got between me and it (P3S truly sucks for video feed) that can take competent pictures and photos, and the Mavic definitely fits that bill. The other bonus is that it is much easier to carry around/get in the air and attracts MUCH less attention than the P3S - the difference in size and sound alone makes it worth it to me.

u/zantopper · 6 pointsr/photography

Thanks :) I just posted another reply above with some more info:

Lee is probably the best when it comes to ND filters, but you can get good results with most brands. I would steer away from the ND filters that cost $5 on ebay since they're most likely made from low quality plastic. Might be fun to play with though, I might pick some up to test them out.

For reasonably cheap circular glass filters, ICE is a no name brand but the quality seems pretty good. Here's a link to their 77mm 10 stop filter: I picked one up to test and I'm pretty happy with the optical quality.

Lots of people have also used welding glass instead of a 10 stop filter, and it seems to work pretty well — it's got a heavy color cast, but that's easily corrected.

u/kabbage123 · 28 pointsr/videography

Congrats on the job!

[Tiffen Variable ND filter] ( is a necessity to me, especially when outside.

This shoulder rig is really an impressive tool for the price.

Husky Multi-tool is my favorite multi-tool

A good tripod like Davis & Sanford model is probably one of the best purchases I've ever made (it's great as-is, and is even better when you upgrade the fluid head to a Manfrotto Video Head).

Pelican SD Card case not only provides protection, but also helps you keep organized.

Pelican 1510 with Padded Divider Case has been my main camera case for well over a year, and has saved my life on multiple occasions (downpours, falling down stairs, etc). I use the top organizer on it as well quite a bit.

This Apurture light is a great run-n-gun LED light that i prefer over costlier alternatives.

Joby Gorillapod is always in my camera bag for random uses. I use it mainly for a makeshift hair light mount, but I've gone as far as mounting my b-cam on it for timelapses.

Merrell Moab Waterproof Shoes are the best shooting shoes I've ever worn.

This Foldable Cart is incredible for me... I never go to a shoot without it. It folds up and fits in my small jeep along with the rest of my gear without an issue, and it gives me a workbench when deployed on location.

A watch with a compass is very important to me if I'm doing exteriors and have no idea where the sun is at due to cloud cover.

Anyway those are some odds and ends I could think of that I use on a day to day basis.

u/RedStag86 · 3 pointsr/GH5

Just using your example of going from a sunny playground to a shaded area, that light isn’t nearly bright enough to help you. I doubt you’ll find any on camera light powerful enough to help you outside during the day, even in shade.

If you’re trying to solve that particular problem, then I suggest treating yourself to a variable ND filter. Don’t be too cheap, either. You were ready to spend $150 on that light, so don’t be afraid to drop some money on this filter. The cheap ones aren’t great. Stick with a reputable brand like B+W, Tiffen, Hoya, etc. This is an example of a pretty good one. Remember that you get what you pay for. You’ll want to look at your lens filter thread measurement to make sure you get the correct size.

If you don’t know what an ND filter is (Neutral Density), it is basically sunglasses for your camera. It allows you to darken the image without having to change the settings on your camera. This is particularly useful for video when following the rule of thumb of your shutter speed being double your frame rate, as these are normally pretty slow shutter speeds from an exposure standpoint. With a variable ND, you’ll be able to quickly spin the filter to brighten your image rather than fumbling with camera settings. It would actually look much smoother than a light anyway.

u/FoodandFrenchies · 3 pointsr/Chefit

I bought a canon rebel on Amazon. Works great. I think I spent around $200. I wanted a little more than the kit lens (though it's fine) so I bought these:
They basically turn your kit lens into a macro lens. I will say though that you have to use manual focus when you use these. Can't beat the price though.

I have this tripod:

And this light:

I use a reflector too but that light comes with a decent one.

This site has a lot of great tips, I particularly like this article and it uses the light above:

Here's a photo I took with my setup tonight --

Good luck! It's fun to learn all this stuff. (Disclaimer: I'm not a chef, I just like taking nice food photos).

u/Halo6819 · 2 pointsr/videography

Im new to the game as well, but so far these are the things I have picked up for my G6:

first, i bought a G6 kit that came with some handy stuff

I have also purchased

A slightly better tripod

A flood light

Battery pack for said light

Variable ND Fader for filming out doors

Rode shotgun Mic

Zoom H1

Lav mic to go with the H1

Headphones to listen for levels

Triple Mount Hot Shoe

Backpack to hold everything

This is just a fun lens, and its cheap the 50mm means its a 100mm equivelent, so its for really tight portraits, but the low aperture is good for low/light and for a very shallow field depth. When I am able to use it, this lens produces the most popular results when i post them online.

new strap cause the one that comes with the G6 sucks!

What i want to get:

A bigger zoom lens I am mostly interested in videography(weddings etc), and this would be good for back of the house shots)

The M 3/4's "nifty fifty"

u/alexharris52 · 2 pointsr/videography

Okay, put the t3i in manual (M) and set the shutter to 1 second or longer - this is super important, you'll get trails on things and it'll make them look like they're moving. Get a 10 stop ND grad filter for your lens so that you can do this without the shots being super dark - they're basically sunglasses for your camera. Set the iso to like 200 (for daytime) and just put the whiter balance on auto, it doesn't really matter

Point at something like cars, or if you're filming ice, pull farther out so we can see everything that's moving quickly in the background. Google search "Your City" and a ton of great shots from photographers will pop up on google images. Go copy those locations with the same composition so you know the framing will look good (since its already been done and you can see a sample of it online)
Aim for about 100 photos a shoot, this will give you about 4 seconds of footage at 24fps
I have my intervelometer set to about every 6 seconds

Bonus: Shoot in jpeg + RAW, get Adobe Lightroom, its super easy to use. Edit the RAWs in there because they're great for color correcting/editing. Send them to Adobe After Effects and apply Warp Stabilizer if there's any wind pushing your tripod or shaking your camera. it'll look great then

Source - I just made this with the t3i

u/The_Endless_ · 1 pointr/gopro

I bought a set of Neewer ND filters + UV + CPL so it's 6 in total...~$30. I haven't gotten to test them out just yet but reviews were positive, price was excellent. The kit is nice, the filters look to be made of good quality and they install (push on) easily. I use ND/PL filters on my drone for videos and there is a noticeable benefit, I imagine the same result for the GoPro.

u/crimsonjella · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

i've been wanting to do this really cool group costume for a while now. My favorite video game is bioshock and i'm obsessed with the creepyness of it and it's just amazing, so i've been wanting to do like a group contest of like the big daddy, the little sister and a splicer or soemthing like that but i can't find anyone that likes bioshock as much as me and is willing to do it with me because we would definitely have to make the costumes.

link something hmm let's see this because i just got a new phone and a case would be very helpful, or maybe this because it would come in handy with the photography class that i'm taking this semester

Thanks for having a contest, especially your first contest! that's awesome! :D

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/photography

I agree with oldscotch. This lens is great and easy to use. It also encourages to move your feet more to get the right angle rather than rely on zoom. I ended up using this a lot more than the 18-55 5.6 kit lens when I started off cause it was just more fun. Also, the price is pretty good:

Usually it's $199 so I'd just wait a few days until they get more.

Another thing I would buy just starting off is some sort of filter for your lens. I'll probably get yelled at for saying this here but its a great way to protect one of the most expensive parts of your kit. The filter will break and not the lens. When you start off you most likely wont even see the difference between having the filter on or not:

I originally bought this one because it was so cheap

I've bought this one for my other lenses

u/DaxCo · 1 pointr/gopro

Get the underwater filters, they are awesome! I also got the LCD screen so I could see my shots before taking them and help get better images if that makes sense. Just had the settings on the highest and had fun with it. I took TONS of photos and get your camera up and in the face or as close as you can of what ever you are shooting, this is maybe 12" away from this turtles head to get a good image. I will include a link to the filters I personally used and liked, they were cheap made a HUGE difference in the color/image quality underwater with them on.

CamKix Underwater Lens Filters

u/carsgobeepbeep · 5 pointsr/scuba

General GoPro advice:

  • In saltwater (blue water color) you need a red filter. Here's your cheapest option:
  • In freshwater/lakes (green water color) you need a magenta colored filter.

    And, some specific advice for your Hero3 Silver:

  • 30FPS will look better than 60FPS because the camera will get more light exposure per frame, improving your image. If you are planning a dive deeper than ~50ft or so in all but crystal clear waters with bright sun, I would shoot in 30fps.
  • For the same reason as the above, you may get a better exposure shooting in 720p than in 1080p. The Black Edition cameras and newer 3+/4 cameras are better at these higher resolutions in low light conditions, due to a better sensor and other improvements.
u/Nerdasaurusrexx · 2 pointsr/coins

I already posted the tarnished coin :p

And I don't have any macro tubes nor a macro lens (too expensive), I use macro filters, cheaper but sort of the same effect.

If you need any help picking a set for whatever lenses you have or have any questions feel free to ask, I'd love to help.

u/johnnyfatsac · 0 pointsr/photography

I'm a bit in your same situation. I'm going to Iceland for 12 days and going to try and shoot a ton of landscapes with my Canon 60D and Tokina 11-16mm Ultra Wide angle (uses 77mm filters). Here's what I got on a budget from a little digging on

Tiffen 77mm Circular Polarizer: $144; on sale for $20!

B+W 10 Stop Neutral Density filter: $252; on sale for $100

Tiffen 77mm Neutral Density 0.9 Filter: $99; on sale for $25

Step-up and Step-down rings let you use your pricey filters on your other lenses; saving you lots of $$$!
Fotodiox 7 Metal Step Up Ring Set, Anodized Black Metal 49-52mm, 52-55mm, 55-58mm, 58-62mm, 62-67mm, 67-72mm, 72-77mm: $13.49

Fotodiox 7 Metal Step-Down Ring Set, Anodized Black Metal. 77-72mm, 72-67mm, 67-62mm, 62-58mm, 58-55mm, 55-52mm, 52-49mm: $14.60

Pedco UltraPod II Lightweight Camera Tripod: $16.67 instead of a $100+ Gorillapod

You can go super cheap/artsy and use welding glass as a ND filter: $6 There's lots of easy tutorials on how to fix the color tint of the glass online.

Travel and photography are both amazing yet expensive hobbies. I hope my little list helps you out by saving you a little $ on the photo side; letting you have more $ on the travel side to do and see more... thus getting more amazing shots!

u/horse_masturbator · 1 pointr/waterporn

I'm glad you asked, yes, I used a variable ND fader by Neewer. This photo was shot at F/16 with the fader cranked pretty far dark and you can see in the photo that it is very sharp. This was using my $100 Canon 50mm F/1.8 at F/16 so diffraction was in play, with a cheap Tiffen filter on it and an even cheaper ND fader and it turned out very very sharp. I would highly recommend the Neewer variable ND to anyone in need of an ND filter. I got mine for $5 on Amazon with free shipping because of prime, you can also see other photos I've taken with it linked to the Amazon page.

u/Simpleprinciple · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This Macro kit would greatly benefit me because I would love to be able to start taking better macro pictures. It always feels like I cant get close enough. I have a good distance lens and love it, but I really want to be able to sneak up on the little things and get a good close shot. Nothing quite as frustrating (there are some things but its a turn of phrase) as when you try to get that closer shot only to have it refuse to take it or to focus properly.


u/BeltPress · 1 pointr/gopro

Do you have a link to where you bought them? Are you sure they're for GoPro? With a Hero6 camera, your ND filters should be square, as they replace the front lens cover, like this. The only round ones I've seen for the Hero5-7 line come with an adapter accessory to fit over the lens housing for a 52mm DSLR-style filter kit like this

There are older styles for the older cameras, which pressed onto the lens of the cameras where the lens was exposed all the time.

It looks like what you're using is something like this, which isn't for your model of camera. Are you sure you didn't buy a kit for Hero4 and are trying to press the filter onto the lens of your camera after you took the lens cover off? Because that's what it looks like to me.

u/RizzoFromDigg · 3 pointsr/videography

Get a 77mm variable ND filter (it changes strength as you rotate, much like a circular polarizer) and get yourself a series of Step Up Rings to convert from 52mm (which I assume your 30/1.4 is) to 77mm.

The biggest lenses you'll likely ever own are a 70-200mm and a 24-70mm, both of which are 77mm filter threads (at least the Nikkors are), so if you buy filters in that size, you can just get step up rings to adapt your filters to your smaller lenses.

I recommend spending money on nice B+W filters. If taken care of, they'll never ever be obsolete, so you might as well get quality:

Then buy a set of cheap step up rings that fit your various lenses.

u/Archer_37 · 1 pointr/photography

I second HOYA. Very pleased with them for my UV filters.

Eventually i will upgrade my $20 Platinum (BestBuy) CPL to HOYA or BW, but for the moment it is adequate.

I have also been very pleased with my B+W ND1000. It is the first heavy ND filter that is actually neutral enough for me to be happy with. The cheaper ones I tried always had an uncorrectable colour cast. (The B+W is easily correctable.)

u/CajunBindlestiff · 1 pointr/photography

This camera is fantastic at both photos and videos, and this refurbished model saves you more money for a great lens, which is by far the most important part of your investment.
This incredible lens has recently had a big price reduction. It has pro features such as a fast, constant aperture and stabilization that will make it possible to shoot sharp photos and videos even in low light, where most lenses fail. It shoots everything from landscapes to portraits perfectly. You will likely keep this lens forever, and it is an ideal lens to learn on. Much better than the cheap kit lenses bundled with most cameras that are very limiting.
Throw this on the front of the lens to protect it.

u/watsoned · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Macro Filter Set! I used to have some of these for my older camera, but after I upgraded I found that they were no longer going to fit the lenses I use now. Why do I want them? Because I love the versatility (and the novelty, c'mon) of being able to take macro shots without having to invest in a macro lens. Especially when it comes to nature shots, since getting up close and personal with the tiniest details on a bug or a flower is just amazing.

u/B_Ledder · 1 pointr/videography

I posted this mainly to showcase my new lens (Kamlan 50mm prime f1.1) which I just recently found out about (and I thought the lens was amazing especially for the price) and the looks of fake anamorphic lenses. I used a filter which had an oval shaped hole (for the oval bokeh effect) and a thin wire vertically down the middle (for the lens flare streak). I also recently got an ND filter which is great with the high speed lens so I can keep a very shallow depth of field during the day.

Overall I think this setup I have going on is awesome and great if you’re on a budget.

Here are the links to everything:

[Kamlan Lens - 50mm prime f1.1]

[Anamorphic Lens Filter]

[Variable ND Filter]

u/ihaveplansthatday · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

I would love to have this set of macro lens filters for my camera. I really love to do macro photography and haven't had a macro lens since I replaced my old camera. It would be really beneficial for my food photography when I need to capture the fine details, especially for baking.

u/thegreattrun · 1 pointr/photography

Hey Alex,

Thank you so much for taking the time for this. I'm currently using an Canon Rebel T1i (old and crappy). The supposed IR filter that I'm using is this one here.

You said that you tried to process the image I posted, and it didn't work. This leaves me with two possibilities: 1) My camera (internally) isn't capable of IR photography because of its internal make up. 2) The filter (as you mentioned, and I posted above) that I'm using isn't an IR filter at all.

If the camera is the issue, I'll have to wait because I don't want to convert it as it is my only DSLR. If the filter is the issue, can you please send me a link to which one would be doable? That Hoya filter seems to be the one everyone is talking about. Is that a good choice?

Finally, could you share some of your methods in post? Do you use Photoshop? Thanks again for your help, Alex!


u/DirewolvesAreCool · 1 pointr/AskPhotography

Generally, don't buy those kits, they're terrible. C-POL is a very useful filter and it's better to have a solid glass in front of your lenses - why degrade your image quality, right? Tiffen is fine, best ones are brands like Hoya and B+W, which are also pretty expensive thanks to the quality of the glass.

This is a great review that will also teach you a little about what to expect and look for in the filters:

I would be more willing to compromise on the ND filter, especially something like ND1000 for experimenting with long shutter speeds because it's a really niche thing and as a beginner, there's probably no need to drop hundred bucks just to play with it.

I found solid test reviews on this 'non brand' so I ordered it for fun but my C-POL is from B+W for example:

u/Concision · 1 pointr/ExposurePorn

I use this 10 stop filter:

It's possible I got an exceptionally good copy, but it is good for the price.

One tip I have is to take your cheap filters and make sure you're not using auto white balance. DSLRs have a pretty hard time figuring out white balance sometimes for long exposures. Lock down white balance and see if the color cast is still present.

u/SkwatLife · 2 pointsr/PanasonicG7

After doing more research - should I be getting a variable ND filter or a solid non-variable ND filter? Or a polarizing one?

In terms of brands, i'm looking at Fotga like the one /u/TheOmega3368 has, or:

  • Gobe
  • Tiffen
  • Polaroid

    Anyone have experience with any of these variable ND filters and can recommend a brand? Again, would like it to be inexpensive, $30 or under!


u/ParkaBoi · 1 pointr/photography

The ones that I've seen most recommended are the Lee Big Stoppers. They'e not cheap and you have to buy filter holders. But they can be used on pretty much any lens so you won't have to buy more than one for different sized threads.

If you want a cheaper one, then stick to the big brands like Hoya and Tiffen. But even these aren't what you'd call inexpensive.

I have some and I love them.

u/TMA-3 · 0 pointsr/Filmmakers

If you're just starting out and on a tight budget, this ND filter kit might be a good choice. They're plastic, but at least they're something.

As for a polarizing filter, it depends on what you're going to be shooting. I actually just bought a CPL filter myself and I'm still learning how to use it. Basically a polarizing filter just reduces glare from reflective surfaces like sheets of paper, windows, lakes, etc. and a CPL filter lets you rotate the entire thing to choose which area of the shot is affected. So yes, a polarizing filter is also a good way to control exposure, but I wouldn't say it's as necessary as an ND.

u/AnotherWay2Fail · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

I heard so too but I was not about to buy and expensive one to start off. I went with a somewhat cheap but not the cheapest I could find. It seems not to have any antireflective coatings, but I’m not too worried about that. I’ve been pretty happy with the results.

K&F Concept 58mm Slim Variable Fader ND2-ND400

u/TheCleaver · 1 pointr/photography

Are you looking at the square filters with a holder and set of adapter rings, such as these? Or singular, circle filters like these?

If you're looking at square filter systems, you'll just need a holder, filters (all of which are a standard 100mm size), and the adapter rings which connect your lens to the filter holder. You can then transfer the holder with the same filters to each of your lenses.

If you're looking at single, circle filters, they come in a variety of sizes and this is when you should buy the one that fits your largest lens a set of step-up/adapter rings. Having said that, I don't think I've ever seen a filter that's sold with the rings included like you mentioned?

If you're new to ND filters, spend a good amount of time considering which method you'd prefer and which brand to go with. It's always worth spending more on a good set of filters "for life" than buying cheaper ones, as you'll often find they colour-cast and can ruin your images. Well known and respected brands include Tiffen, Lee, Cokin Z Series, Hoya, B+W etc.

u/FreackInAMagnum · 1 pointr/photography

You might consider getting a continuous ring light such as this one.
A ring light is a easy, portable light that will allow you to get the shot, which wouldn't be possible without it.
In general, investing in lighting is never a bad idea. Simply learning how to use the lighting is always a lot of fun.

Also, you can get a variable ND Filter, which is also helpful for both video and stills.

u/sir_oki · 1 pointr/SonyAlpha

If the B&W filters are too pricy, I’d highly recommend the ICE ND1000. It’s a fantastic filter for the price, with minimal converting and great sharpness for the price.

u/ImLyno · 1 pointr/scuba

I got one similar to this

Worked great for me, here's some screen grabs so you get an idea of what it's like, I chose to just leave it on at all times rather than risk taking it off for topside and loosing it

Above Water

Shallow Water (around 10 metres)

Deeper water (around 20 metres)

Deeperer water (around 32 metres)

All images are RAW so with a bit of colour correction they look quite nice, think my next investment will be a nice dive light to go with it.

u/Cupcake_Kat · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

This would really help me travel more by adding to the type of photos that I can take and wanting to visit new places and revisit previous to see them through a new eye. I don't have enough to buy a new lens, so this is a very good supplement. Thank you for the chance : )

u/sigSleep · 1 pointr/dji

PolarPro Filtres Shutter Cinema Series pour DJI Mavic (ND8, ND16, ND32)

Hope this is the good ones..
I like the polarized effect .
Thank you for replying

u/thenamesalreadytaken · 2 pointsr/photography

I'm using an 18-140mm lens with Nikon D5500. I want to buy an ND filter for the lens. This seems like a good one, since I'm not looking for a variable ND filter. My question is:

  1. How do I select the diameter for the ND filter? As in, which one should I get for 18-140?
  2. In case anyone has used this product, is it worth the money?
  3. If not, what are some recommended ones around this budget?
u/jjSuper1 · 12 pointsr/Filmmakers


Don't show the sky, any natural lighting will help sell the illusion.
You'll want to get yourself some ND filters, either cheap Like THESE

Or a variable screw on filter Like this

These will help you achieve a darker image, while allowing you to using whatever lens stop (within reason) you wish. Shooting in day in the forest is already going to be a bit darker than out in the open, but you should still be able to shoot close to wide open if you want.

Also, try to avoid showing glowing bright sun crashing through the trees onto the floor. Moonlight can do that, but doesn't always look the same.

Finally, if you want a "blue" look, you could white balance your camera to a yellow card which will shift it blueish. Or just shoot at 3200K or lower and it'll be fine.

Hope that helps.

u/HybridCamRev · 2 pointsr/videography

Nice job. To shallow out your DoF, you need a [$20 58mm ND filter] ( for your 12-35 to keep your lens aperture wide open to 2.8.

Good luck!

u/motophiliac · 1 pointr/photography

You can use a neutral density filter. Neutral density means grey, as opposed to having a distinct colour like blue, or red.

*Edit: Here's a decent one to increase expsosure by 6 stops. Note the thread diameter, which will be printed on your lens. There are loads of sizes and darknesses to choose from.

Other than being darkened, it doesn't interfere with the photo at all, it just leads to longer exposure times. Why?

If this image had been shot with an exposure time of anything over, say, 10 seconds, it's very unlikely any people would show up on the photo.

At a pinch, you can use a polariser to increase your exposure by about 2 stops, so from 1/4 to a whole second, from a second to four seconds or thereabouts.

If you're wanting photos void of people wandering around, this is definitely a good way to do it.

u/burning1rr · 1 pointr/Nikon

There are some variable ND filter options that fit your price range. Those are a good place to start. With a variable ND, you rotate the ring to control how much light is filtered out. These go well above ND32.

K&F seems to be a decent budget brand. One of the photography vloggers I watch has started reviewing their stuff.

If you eventually decide to get serious with filters, I'd suggest looking into plate filter systems, such as Formatt Hitech instead of pricy $80 round filters. These systems are somewhat expensive, but are designed to fit all your lenses using adapter rings. They open up a world of ND grads, which are useful for shooting high-contrast landscape scenes.

Generally, 85mm systems are economical and suited to crop sensors, but the 100mm systems are really needed if you want to shoot with ultra-wide lenses.

u/Zekester3000 · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7

I've wanted to get into correction and grading for a while now, so I figured I'd try it. However, I've heard before that you want to shoot as flat as possible, so that when you're in post, it's as exploitable as possible, right? That's what I was going for with the Natural profile.

Yeah, the whole aperture 22 thing was because 1) I already had my ISO as low as it could go (200), 2) I wanted to stick to the shutter speed/fps rule, and 3) the only thing left to adjust was the aperture. At anywhere under like 18 aperture, I was overexposing a lot, so I thought that was my only option, to adjust aperture.

I've heard of ND filters before and I've seen some before/afters, they actually look quite brilliant. Is this one fine?

u/picmandan · 2 pointsr/itookapicture

This is totally cool. Looking at this image makes my brain hurt a bit however, trying to comprehend the angle that I'm seeing. I don't necessarily dislike that aspect, perhaps it helps, or perhaps I wonder if taking the image more level might help me out.

Nice exposure and framing for sure. I like the natural frame provided naturally on 3 sides by the walls and rails.

In another part of the thread, you mentioned waiting for people to leave. I've never tried it, but a trick you can use is a strong neutral density filter to get exposure times up by many factors (a decent kit appears to be a 6 stop and 10 stop, stackable). Then, as people or other objects move, they disappear. Of course the obvious downside is if the trolley is moving too, it will be blurry. However, that could be fixed by taking 2 exposures (one at a normal exposure) and merging the images with photoshop or similar.

Here's a good article.

u/tehrealbdeal · 1 pointr/bmpcc

I think I use this one just for when its bright out. works pretty well.

u/d_russ · 1 pointr/videography

What about a simple Tiffen ND9 for $27?

Also, I get that you want to advise for the absolute best but honestly, dude is 17 and I don't imagine has the most stringent of image quality concerns ala theatrical distribution / 4K, so what harm is there in learning on a cheap filter?

u/downvotedbylife · 7 pointsr/photography

Threads like these always seem to bombard people with directions to a hundred different money sinks. If you just want to make a cheap attempt to get your feet wet, get an inexpensive IR filter off amazon like this one, screw it on your lens and go out and take some pictures.

As others have mentioned, you won't get any super-crisp images without modifying your camera, since the on-sensor IR filter requires looooong exposures to be able to make any sort of image. If you're just playing around and magnificent quality isn't the top priority, shoot in max ISO and you should be able to get away with 1-2 second exposures in broad daylight. A tripod helps a lot.

Try to stay away from filters that block anything above 720nm without modifying your camera, though. They will block out way too much light and it will be much harder to get a clear image.

u/MISFITofMAGIC · 1 pointr/photography

A basic UV filter, cheap ones can add funny flair, but they can be removed quickly and easily. If I take the filter off I generally make sure to use a lens hood.

u/roccscout · 12 pointsr/videography

To get smooth (not choppy) motion, i.e. the motion blur that the human eye sees as "natural", you want your shutter speed to try to be half as fast as your framerate, also known as the 180 Degree Rule.

If you're filming in 30 frames-per-second, you would want 1/60 shutter speed. At this relatively "slow" shutter speed, you will get nice blur with any movement.

If you were filming in 30fps and had a shutter speed of 1/800, your footage will look really choppy and unnatural.

Since you're slowing down your shutter speed for the 180-degree rule, you'll be getting more light. To get a proper exposure, you'll have to decrease your ISO or your aperture.


If you want to get a nice shallow depth-of-field look at low apertures (f/1.5-2.8), you can't increase your aperture value without overexposing, and your ISO will hit the bottom value. To compensate for this in photography, you would simply increase your shutter speed. BUT, since this creates choppy movement in video, that's where you need to look into ND filters to properly expose your image with a 180-Degree shutter, normal ISO, open aperture, and a ND filter.

I recommend the Tiffen Variable ND's.

u/geekandwife · 2 pointsr/photography

Your only choices are not square filters or variable. Standard round ND filters work as well.

$30 bucks for those on a budget...

Or $60 for a 3 stop, a 6 stop and a 10 stop. Great for a budget shooter

And since you are on this anti square filter crusade, throwing it in as a budget option as well -

$30 for 8 filters, and the holder... Looks like it would fit on a budget...

u/goldfish18 · 1 pointr/djimavic

The polarpro nd filters are amazing. I actually have a set of ND8, ND16, and ND32 that I'd be willing to sell to you. I bought them at the end of June, but then got a Mavic 2 so I won't need them anymore. I've only used them a few times and got them on Amazon. PM me if you're interested and I'll send you pics or whatever else you may want to see.

u/hellowiththepudding · 1 pointr/scuba

Honestly, just get the gel inserts. The flip systems seem nice, but I'm not willing to pay $50+ when I can get the gel for $8 (and even that's paying too much).
these go for $12, so even paying $8 for a few small circles of the material seems like too much, but that's a niche market for ya.

u/FussyParts · 3 pointsr/photography

A good 150mm rectangular filter is going to blow about your entire budget.

One can make a filter holder by cutting out a sponge and spray painting it black with the remaining $5.

I haven't the faintest idea why every filter holder is $150-$300. It's some machine shopped aluminum, should be $30.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the 17-40 is a 77mm screw front. That's a very common size and therefore a decent investment, should be easy to find a circular filter for ~$50-80. I'd recommend B+W 10 stop for $60.

u/sibastiNo · 1 pointr/photography

I just do photography as a side hobby, but the ICE ND1000 filter has suited my needs very well at a pretty reasonable price. I don't know how it compares to the expensive ones though.

ICE 77mm ND1000 Filter Neutral Density ND 1000 77 10 Stop Optical Glass

u/CharlesStross · 2 pointsr/diving

I use this kit:

I don't edit footage shot with those at all unless it's right under the surface or I'm going deeper than the lens I'm using is ideal for, but even then it's a slight tint correction rather than needing a total re-grade. I dive Monterey and the magenta (anti-green) never leaves my camera.

It's simple and cheap but gets the job done. Protips: put the lense lanyard in between the hinges of your mount so it can't run away and make sure you put the lens on underwater so you don't trap bubbles between the lens and housing.

u/hereicum2trolltheday · 1 pointr/space

Here you go.

The better the polarizing filters that it's made from, the better the results.

u/secutores · 2 pointsr/gopro

Or, even simpler. Use a filter. Works like a champ.

u/DigitalSuture · 5 pointsr/photography

I used these for weddings with my flashes. They work awesome, and they include a Kelvin rating and how much it adjust it. 5000-5500 Kelvin is daylight (my Nikon likes 4800). 3200-3400 K is Tungsten, Florescent is 3000k with Green.

The florescent ones that come in the pack might need to be doubled up, you will probably lose half a stop exposure (1/3 roughly per green gel). The darker the gel will reduce flash output. This is added on the loss of exposure from your umbrellas/softbox if you use it.

If you use ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) then use the Hue tab for yellows slider in the HSL (Hue, Saturation, Luminance) area to bring it to taste.

If your looking for actual full front to back color management, shoot raw. Photograph this chart with even cross lighting or in daylight with minimal shadows cast on the color patches. Then run this program and it will give you presets for the camera calibration tab in ACR. Same presents can be used for Lightroom since they are using the adobe color engine etc.

To successfully manage this i would stop by to photograph the office quickly to get the color temp correction. Test your flash with a couple combos etc. Your missing one huge component possibly. The light coming into the office, since it is shade, you are going to get about 5800-6000k coming in (shade/direct lighting mixture) which is a blue tone. So you will have corrected for the nasty fluorescent, but now since you dropped to 3000k there is a huge blue source of light coming in.

Either balance everything and deal with the blue in post, or blast everything with un-adjusted flash (or a CTB 1/4) so the florescent doesn't have time to show up. If it is a really cloudy day your going to get a 6,600k which will be bluer than originally planned for, and if that happens you will need probably a CTB 1/2 or CTB full (or 1/2 and 1/4 combined) to balance the lights- also you need to add exposure if that is the case.

By the way it also depends on the type of florescent lights. If it is the new CFL (compact florescent lights) that you screw in, you will not have a problem because they refresh up to 10,000-40,000 times a second. The question is if they are the long tube florescent lights they refresh around 100-120 times a second. What this means is that your shutter speed should be slower than 1/125 of a second because it might catch one not refreshed and then you get to spend time in photoshop. Also the length of exposure balanced with the outside will determine how much of a shift of green you get. Do be aware that the florescent lights that say 'cool white' have a coating that is pretty much doing what the filter gels are doing.

TL;DR Damned if you do, damned if you don't. And your client probably might not care about all this trouble. Great system when streamlined though :)

source: Too many weddings.

I prefer this calibration script, but more advanced. Either script will do the job with minimal differences.

edit: move brain dropping to the correct train of thought.

u/hammad22 · 1 pointr/photography

I have just one more question, can you recommend me an ND filter for my Nikon D3300 with regular 18-55mm kit lens? I have no idea which mm length lens I should get because they come in various sizes or the differences between some ND filters. I saw this and this on Amazon. Like what's the difference between ND2 and ND4?

u/bulksalty · 2 pointsr/photography

Two of them:
First has one has multiple copies of commonly used ones (reddish, cyan, straw, CTO, CTB, etc) and they're a hair bigger (sized for speedlights)

This one is the original with one of everything they make (it was the original hack recommended on strobist).

I got some stick on velcro and use those to attach them to my speedlights.

u/evan_mcginnis · 1 pointr/photography

I recently purchased these and they're great. Especially if you don't want to invest a ton of money in them at the moment.

I use them on my 50mm 1.4 for shallow DOF during the day, and you can stack them to darken them!

Neutral Density Filters for 50mm

u/qwertty1234567890 · 1 pointr/scuba

We use this one which has a couple of different levels of filter depending on the amount of algae etc. In the water. It lets you vary the red filter based on conditions - something like that should help your issue.

u/LunaticBolt · 4 pointsr/videography

Tiffen 77mm Variable Neutral...

I have this one and it’s great

u/UnrighteousFool · 1 pointr/gopro

Awesome video! A few things though

  1. You should use really use a red filter.
  2. How did you rig it to the chum?
  3. How long did you leave it down there?
u/luckykarma83 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Happy Birthday Diaju!

A lens I'd like

u/mbstuart · 1 pointr/ExposurePorn

I ended up getting a B+W 77mm ND 3.0-1,000X. I've been very happy with it.

u/vrihet · 1 pointr/photography

I have a question on infrared photography. I've seen lens cap thingies like this one on sale on Amazon for a fairly cheap price. Would the lenses produce the similar images, or do you need to buy a specific body/lens?

u/PastramiSwissRye · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7

How much do you want to spend (say, $5-$100) and how future-proofed do you want to be (tiny filter that fits kit vs giant filter that you can adapt to other lenses in future)?

You need a 46mm ND to cut half a stop of ND. Believe it or not, in my brief Googling I had trouble finding a filter at a good price that would achieve that ND at that price, so instead...

This is what I use: a Fotga slim fader ND. Not as a precise, but inexpensive, of good quality, and more versatile.

u/ItsMeEntropy · 2 pointsr/photography

I would get a large 77mm filter and just buy step-down rings for your lens as needed. That way, if you ever want to upgrade your 18-55 you'll be able to keep using that 77mm filter.

The setup would look like this:

77mm ND Filter > screws onto this 77mm to 58mm step-down ring > screws onto your 18-55 lens.

So if you end up buying a new lens in the future, say the Canon 10-18, you can just buy a different 77mm to 67mm step down ring and use it with that new lens.

As for what filter to get, that depends. They can range anywhere from $50 (for a budget one) all the way to $400+ for a full filter system. The $30 ICE filter I linked does surprisingly well as an intro-budget ND filter if you just want dabble with its effects.

u/whimsyee · 1 pointr/Beginning_Photography

If you're just an average photographer, try a variable ND filter.

That one is almost too large, but if you get somethig like a 72mm, and use a step up ring, you can use it on most lenses that you will get.

u/yikesAyetti · 1 pointr/pics

I use this under $10 filter for my IR photography with my Nikon P7000 that has not had any internal modifications done. And I think it does a pretty decent job.

Here's another example of an image I've taken with this filter

Source: I'm a turtle.

u/evanrphoto · 1 pointr/WeddingPhotography

haha, i used gels for the first time at a wedding only a few weeks ago. i used some Rosco The Strobist gels on my OCFs just because the lights were so obtrusively warm.

u/sunnydelish · 2 pointsr/flashlight

Thanks for the link. I will check them out.

I have these filters that I plan on putting in front of the light to change to tone/color of light.

u/Ralkkai · 1 pointr/photography

Well I'm looking at [this]( right now. I'm on a college kid budget so I was looking at this or the Tiffen ones for 45 bucks which seem to have better reviews. I don't know what the difference between a .6 stop and a ND2 is tbh.

u/asosaki · 1 pointr/fujix

I use my Fuji for a lot of video work so I have a lot of experience with variable NDs. In my experience, the best one to get (for the price) is the Tiffen Variable ND. I also have a GenusTech variable ND/polarizer that I love and is fantastic, but also really expensive (about $250 I believe) and kind of hard to find apparently. I bought mine from The Camera Store in Calgary.

u/zardoz_speaks_to_you · 2 pointsr/videography

Your choice, it won't make a difference to the image, but if you think you'll ever buy a bigger lens get the bigger nd. I have this one and it works well.

u/Theageofpisces · 2 pointsr/analog

I bought these. I thought I read where shorter lenses may not give the best macro results?

And I guess I'm in luck, because I just bought some Tri-X!

u/piggychuu · 1 pointr/PanasonicG7


As someone who read this thread after picking up a cheap ($20) variable ND lens, this image makes a lot of sense. I was toying around with long exposures for the first time and I was wondering why I saw those weird patterns and whatnot. It wasn't entirely consistent so fortunately it was a bit better towards the ends of the spectrum, but there wasn't really a nice middle ground. If I ever get more serious about needing a ND filter, I'll definitely be getting a higher quality one.

Filter for reference:

u/letseatpaste · 7 pointsr/photography for the 77mm for $30, they have different sizes, though. I think I paid $22 or so for 49mm. That's on USA Amazon, otherwise search for "ICE ND1000 filter" and you should probably be able to find it.

u/MacGyverisms · 2 pointsr/photography

If you're looking for a screw-in filter, B+W is the way to go. Just make sure you get the size that fits your lens. Never really had any color casting issues with it, even on their ND 3.0 filter. Personally, I find myself using a ND 1.8 more often though I have both. There are also drop-in filters like those made by Lee, which come highly regarded but are leaps and bounds more expensive. Multi-coating is nice to have, but more important for polarizers than filters. It really depends on how much you're willing to spend. I have no idea what a "hot mirror" is, but I'm thinking that you're referring to a hot sensor or hot pixels. When you take long exposures, with an ND filter for example, the sensor will continue to heat up as long as the shutter is open. Hot sensors produce more noise, which hurts overall image quality. Any filter you put in front your lens is going to have some adverse affects on your image, most of which can be easily fixed in post processing. Contrast, tones, and all that can be adjusted in Lightroom after the fact.

u/Hooked · 3 pointsr/photography

I have an Ice 10 stop ND that's been working pretty well for me. There is some slight color shifting but other than that nothing too noticeable. But you can fix that in post.

u/subtyler · 2 pointsr/oregon

This is the one I used for this picture. It does change the color cast of your image but you can fix it in lightroom.

u/klulukasz · 2 pointsr/oculus

Ir filters for cameras usually filter IR out , for dk2 camera you would want band pass filter that passes only IR

edit: sorry actually IR filters for slr's are usually passing only IR, so they should work (eg., many digital cameras have integrated IR filters that filter out the IR and thats what i was basing my first answer on.

u/StillARedditor · 1 pointr/pics

Or if you use a really dark filter.
58MM Altura Photo Neutral Density Professional Photography Filter Set (ND2 ND4 ND8) + Premium MagicFiber Microfiber Cleaning Cloth

u/AberrantCheese · 4 pointsr/M43

For long exposure of waterfalls I've used this ICE ND filter with it's ridiculous 10-stop. I used it to get this waterfall pic. You can get by with less, say an 8 or 6 stop. At 10 stops I could do crazy 30 second or more exposures, but that isn't at all necessary for most waterfalls. (Edit: If you order that filter be sure to match the size to your lens, I just pulled up the one for the 40-150 pro size of 77mm)

u/son-of-fire · 12 pointsr/aww

sure no problem! I bought these recently from amazon. They just go over the off camera flash, I have this one which has a small diffuser that folds down over the front which I slide the gel under.

Here's a pic where you can see the flash with the gel in the background.

EDIT: Fixed a link

u/Unknown_Pleasures · 2 pointsr/photography

I have had no issues with my Tiffen ND filter and I have been using it for around 6 months.

43$ shipped

u/Chexjc · 2 pointsr/photography

I bought this one for $30. When you cheap out, you lose a lot of sharpness, but if you're only going to use it once, it does a decent enough job. Here are a couple of images I captured using it.

u/mr_bijae · 1 pointr/gopro

I am doing some underwater stfuff as well. Here's a few things that I purchased:

the bobber

red snap on filter

go scope

And a shameless plug for my first tide pool video shot last weekend.

u/jonjiv · 2 pointsr/VideoEditing

There is nothing wrong with your tripod head.

This is high shutter speed stutter. There is no motion blur at all in your footage, which causes the image to stutter, especially since you shot at 24 fps.

What shutter speed was this shot at? You should be around 1/50th of a second at 24fp. My guess is that you didn't put an neutral density filter on your lens and you were forced to shoot around 1/240th of a second. I never go over 1/100th unless I intentionally want stuttering footage.

Invest in some ND filters. A 0.9 will usually do the trick.

Also, you can try using the highest f-stop on your lens to try to get the shutter speed below 1/100 s.

Edit: I downloaded your files. There is something wrong with your export or sequence settings. The original MOV file plays much smoother. Your "Source Video" has duplicate frames, effectively making it 18fps, which means there is an incorrect frame rate setting, likely in your timeline, since both videos show 23.98fps. What are your timeline settings?

Edit 2: Since your frame rate has reduced by 6fps, (from 24 to 18), it looks like you edited 24p footage in a 30p timeline and then exported at 24p. Definitely check your timeline frame rate.

u/bube7 · 1 pointr/photography

I want to buy an ND filter for daytime long exposures, but can't decide on what to get.

At first, variable ND filters made sense - because they would enable me to shoot wide open in daily shots, besides long exposures. I'm a hobbyist, so the little degradation in quality with vari-NDs wouldn't have mattered, but the x pattern issue really discouraged me from wanting one.

Anyway, I can't decide between these three ND filters:
Another, more expensive B+W - what's the difference between this and the previous one?

And here were the vari-NDs I was considering:
*Light Craft Workshop

As I said, I don't think the vari-NDs are for me.. but which of the other 3 would you recommend? Any loss in sharpness and contrast? Any color casting?

I would not prefer to go up to the pricey B+W's range of $150, but if there's a big difference in image quality compared to the other two, I just may choose that one.