(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best camera & photo lighting

I'm very happy with my Godox gear so far. I also considered Yongnuo, but I like Godox' wireless system is a lot better. In fact, I think right now they have one of the best wireless systems on the market.

Basic setup:

A hot-shoe TTL flash is a great place to start. I'd suggest the TT350N for that; it's small and convenient to carry. It's strong enough to light up a dark room, and to overpower ambient lights. If you use it as a bounce flash, you don't really need any other accessories.

I use the TT350 for all the bounce photography. Bounce is very simple and convenient. Its small size is very handy here, because it doesn't throw off the camera balance or really get in the way.

I personally bought the V860II-N as my first speedlight. I realized it was a beast when it arrived; way more flash than I needed on my hot-shoe. Here's a size comparison: http://imgur.com/a/jFpvM

I'm glad I have it though; it's great in multi-point lighting and it's nice to have a more powerful option should I need it.

Off-camera setup:

The next step up from there is to move the flash off-camera. For that, you'll need a stand, a head, and a light modifier.

You can use a tripod, but a light stand is a lot simpler to setup and break-down. To mount a light to the stand, you'll need and either a hot-shoe adapter or the flash foot. The simplest and cheapest modifier is a photography umbrella. You'll need a mount to attach an umbrella to the stand, though most hot-shoe adapters will also hold the umbrella.

I use the Godox S mount adapter and a soft-box. The benefit of the adapter is that it can use other Bowens mount light modifiers if I want to try them in the future. It also holds an umbrella.

You'll also need a way to trigger the flash. You can use your on-board flash for this, but I went with the Godox X1 trigger. This is a radio trigger, and does TTL. It cost $40. A very nice thing about the X1 trigger is that it can control the speedlights remotely; I can change power and other settings from my camera, which cuts down a lot of back-and-forth. It's also a lot more reliable and convenient than using an optical trigger.

Multi-point setup:

The next step after that is multi-point lighting. If you already have a speedlight, radio trigger, etc. All you really need are more flash heads. The nice thing about multi-point lighting is that they don't all need to be the same speedlight. Usually, you use different power levels and modifiers anyway. In my case, I have a big powerful speedlight, and a small portable speedlight. When I'm out and about, I can grab whichever is best for the job.

You can use manual (non-TTL) flashes for multi-point lighting. This is best if you don't intend to use ambient as a light source or don't mind fiddling to balance ambient with the flash. A lot of Godox's manual flashes still have built in wireless support, which makes them a good inexpensive solution.

The sky is the limit:

From there, there's a whole world of lighting. Strobes powerful enough to make the sun look dim, lighting modifiers, etc.

Quick edit: A number of companies resell Godox' products. Flashpoint is the most prolific, but there's also Bolt, Neewer, and a couple others.

The advantage of a flash with a trigger is that you can take a couple with it, click the transmitter off, and take a couple without it...

I use a flash on a very low stand for exit photos, generally - but if something wrong - for example, if I can't get into the right position to put the couple between me and the speedlight for some reason, I want to be able to click it off remotely and still get photos! Of course you can handle that with a signal to your husband to switch off that light, so you'll be fine there!

That said, there are cheap flashes that are absolutely fine. You can buy a manual only flash for $30, or one with TTL for $50-60. In addition to the 622's, which are what I use most of the time, you can also get the super cheap 'dumb' transmitters that just pass the trigger signal for under $20. If you're really not going to use this stuff again, they'd be fine.

So something like
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524622121&sr=8-3&keywords=flash+trigger

And

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-Cameras-Canon/dp/B01I09WHLW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1524622217&sr=8-16&keywords=yongnuo+flash

That flash will actually trigger as an optical slave to any flash... so you COULD skip the trigger and just use your diffuse fill flash to trigger it while your husband holds it.

Are those great products? Nope. Would I shoot paid weddings with them? Nope. But I think there's a 95% chance they'd do what you need them to do - all for under $50.00.

If you'll use off camera flashes again... invest a little more in the YN-622c's and/or the godox flashes. But if not, cheap out and you're probably okay.

Whatever you do, make sure to get out there 10 minutes before the exit and test your setup! Sparkler exits have everything a photographer hates - bright lights, darkness, fast movement, and a narrow window of opportunity!

Also, coach your couple! Tell them to come out, kiss, move to a certain spot, stop and waive, wait for your signal to move to the end of the line... kiss again. They tend to just RUN for it and it's easy to miss the whole thing, especially if you need two seconds to adjust a setting or switch on or off a flash trigger. That's more important than the gear! The sparklers really DO give enough light to get a shot with ambient only, or ambient and a little flash fill.

Oh, and if you are using front fill, gel it warm!

Ok, this is SUPER short notice, but who would like to attempt a 'Fit Pic February'?

The challenge is to take a fit pic every day, no matter what you're wearing. The point is to build up good fit-pic-taking habits, not to show off our wardrobes. I know I need it, at least.

EDIT: Yo, if you're reading this and thinking 'I'd love to do that but I can only take mirror selfies', may I recommend this cameraphone stand and this light kit?

They're a bit of an investment for sure, but if you love taking OOTD pics they'll pay for themselves in time. And if you're at all crafty, that big-ass bright light will come in SUPER handy for all kinds of things. Hell, I don't even have mine right now because my dad borrowed it while he cleaned his guns.

EDIT 2: There's nothing wrong with mirror selfies, this is just a suggestion.

EDIT 3: But if you could just get one thing, I would recommend the light kit. It's easy to jury-rig a phone stand -- I used one I made out of clay for a while, and I've used soda bottles in a pinch -- but dim, yellow-toned, overhead lights can't be fixed as easily.

Get yourself a box resizer and a good razor knife. Sometimes a half an ounce or less can make the difference between $5 shipping and $7+, and you will also save packaging material by not having to stuff half of a box with packing paper or bubble wrap.

Box Resizer tool On Amazon $16.99 - Free Shipping

DONT BUY BUBBLE WRAP LOCALLY AT THE STORE. GET IT ON AMAZON.

I almost never pay more than $27 for 700ft of bubblewrap. I used to spend more than that on 250ft when I was buying it at Lowe's or Staples.

Bubblewrap on Amazon for $25.88 with free shipping

Keep an eye out for something like this at thrift stores, you can find them ALL THE TIME, usually for around $5 - $7, and they are GREAT for mounting your rolls of bubble wrap on to save space and make dispensing it easy.

Clothes rack with bar

For taking photos, I use something like this setup. I place the backdrop stand behind a dresser and drape the fabric backdrop over the top of it and tuck it into my top drawer for a seamless background that I can also lean items against since it's tucked in.

Backdrop + Stand Kit $36.90 on Amazon. Free Shipping

Photography Lighting Kit $52.10 On Amazon - Free Shipping

I've got a few questions about computer hardware for photography.

My father is a paper artist and needs to upgrade his computer monitor.
He has always photographed his work then edited in Photoshop elements. He is constantly struggling with color correction trying to get everything to look the same as in real life. His average size work is about 5'x5'. He shoots with a T5i with a Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM.

What are some recommendations for high color quality monitors. Color is the most important factor. He has been using a dell ultra sharp and was thinking of upgrading to one of Dell's higher quality monitors. I've heard good things about BenQ but not sure what to look for. I know he should be getting one with an IPS display.

We were thinking a 27" but is it worth investing in a 1440p or is 1080p still fine. Are there any recommendations for display calibrations. The best selling on amazon is Datacolor Spyder4Pro S4P100 Colorimeter for Display Calibration Is this really worth it and is worth trying on his current monitor? I heard about them on a B&H youtube video but it sounds like it's an easy fix?

He is willing to spend the money to invest in something that will last him a while. What would give him the best bang for his buck? Is there a 750 BenQ that acts like a $1200 Dell

What is the best option for $500?
750?
1000?
1250?

Thank you for any recommendations.

At that budget, get some manual offname speedlights, and some cheap 28in umbrellas. They are far from the best things out there, but even the junk has its place, and that place is on shoestring budgets. As for backdrop, go to walmart, and pick up some queen or king size bedsheets of the walmart brand. Get one thats close to middle grey if possible. A middle grey sheet with a speed light and a color gel will become whatever color your gel is. I bought the strobist pack of gels, so my one sheet instantly becomes the whole rainbow. The reality is that $150 is a drop in the bucket of a proper studio, but there are plenty of budget ways of doing things. If you want even cheaper lighting, at the trade off of control, go to your local hardware store and pick up some of the $5 work lights that look like more like a bowl from your kitchen than a proper light. Continuous light can still be plenty useful but can be a little trickier to set up, and dealing with spill can be a pain. $2 foam core project boards make great dirt cheap reflectors and flags. You best bet at that budget is to think more DIY than "what can I buy". Try things and experiment. I have spent almost as much money at HomeDepot making my own lighting modifiers as I have on buying actual modifiers, and the results aren't really much different between my homebrew and the actual gear.

edit: Here's some links!

AmazonBasics speedlight $28 (x2, ~$60)

flash triggers, $15

two shoot-through, two silver reflectives, two gold reflectives, w/stands and carry bag $57

so that puts us at ~$135 right there

grey bedsheet $15

cheap gel kit $8

So add in tax and shipping, and there's your $150 budget plus a few bucks extra.

Now like I said you can do continuous light a little cheaper.

Here are some lights, modifiers, stands, and backdrops for $97

The key here is this is all "junk". That doesnt mean dont use it. I have a bunch of stuff from kits like these. But dont be surprised if an umbreallas silver lining separates off, or a softbox develops a tear in it. They just arnt made to the same standards as "pro" gear, but you can get just as good results with it if you take your time to learn what you are doing, and accept the downfalls of what you are buying and work around them. Work in your budget and develop your skills more. You will either pursue it further and buy better stuff later, or like me, still have the cheap off name junk because it works fine and you would rather spend money on glass than umbrellas.

On a budget, you might look into lighting options instead. My DSLR/Photoshop always give the best results but sometimes I’m just way too lazy for that lol. I can get pretty good results on my iPhone 6 with good lighting and the Afterlight app, and I’m sure a newer phone would be even better.

I have these soft boxes and have been happy with them (and they’re on sale for Black Friday currently) link

This little ring light is an inexpensive option. There’s probably better ones out there, but it’s like $10 and good for a quick pop of light or balancing out a shadow link

Hi /u/misdy - welcome to /r/videography! I am a big fan of ring lights because you only need one to get nice, even light.

With two or three, it looks like you have a whole studio full of lights.

I started out with a [$120 AC powered Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1V6QAU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00B1V6QAU&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), which I bought after I saw this review: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html

This is a fabulous light, but I needed a light that was battery powered and portable - so I bought a small, but powerful [$199 F&V R-300 Ring Light] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY0J4OY/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00AY0J4OY&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [$25 Milk Diffusion Filter] (http://www.adorama.com/FVMWDR300.html?KBID=66297).

Here is what the lights look like on a [$28 pair of light stands] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WB02Z4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001WB02Z4&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20): https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG

The R-300 runs on either a 12V AC adapter or a [$10 Sony camcorder battery] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q9PWQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0007Q9PWQ&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). I bought a couple of them along with a [$19 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=321347920244&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg).

You can also buy a [$40 rail mount] (http://www.adorama.com/FV15RMR300.html?KBID=66297) for it and put it on a set of 15mm rails. This light does a great job in the field as well as in the studio.

Here it is on my camera: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-rhqiHavOnGM/U1J4paO2vRI/AAAAAAAAIrk/eW1mhniD0gY/w724-h543-no/P1120708.JPG

Two F&V lights, two stands, a couple of milk filters, two batteries and a dual charger and you'll have a pair of cool, powerful and compact portable lights that will fit into very small spaces - all for about $500.

Hope this is helpful!

Bill

>In your subjective opinion, is a hardware-calibrated monitor significantly more beautiful than a software-tweaked one, and is it worth the $150 or so it'd cost for a colorimeter?

Yes, absolutely. Having spent the money I consider it worth every penny. Once you know calibrated reference color, you can't go back. Our eyes will readjust and compensate for a lot of differences over time. Those who like using f.lux, for example, often comment on not noticing it's effects after a while.

This is because f.lux is basically an automated color profile changer. It goes from a higher color temperature (7K/6500K or so) down to a very low color temperature as it approaches night time. This makes sense, since the human eye tends to view colors a bit cooler under lower lighting conditions.

While f.lux can feel pleasing, it's does result in inaccurate colors. If you wanted an f.lux like experience with accurate color, you would create a profile for each lighting condition your room has. Primarily an 'overhead lights on' profile calibrated for 6500K 2.2 gamma, and a 'lights off' profile that might be something like 5500K 2.2 gamma.

I consider this a bit overkill though, I stick to one daytime profile, and I have a fluorescent bulb in my overhead that is more of a 'daytime' color temperature. Photo studios go to extremes and use high end monitors with hoods to reduce direct light from hitting the screen, and they have accurate color temperature bulbs of a known brightness.

Personally though, I think one of the better advantages to calibration is also setting the luminance level. Lots of LED backlit monitors can get REALLY bright, but brightness is only beneficial under really harsh lighting conditions, and often washes out the color. Monitors also tend to overgain the colors a bit on high lighting conditions, so you lose some accuracy.

The best way to calibrate, imo, is to 120 cd/m2. This is a nice, even brightness, and while somewhat 'dim looking' at first is quickly compensated by your eyes and brain. This also tends to reduce eye strain. In addition, lots of monitors now can go 200 cd/m2 and up, so by having the brightness significantly lower than its maximum, you often reap the benefit of more accurate color.

As far as a tool, I ended up getting the Spyder4Studio, because I knew I was going to need a printer profiler also and it saved me money.

For your purposes I would go with the Spyder4Pro since it's the same hardware as the Spyder4Elite, only limited by software license. You also get to use it on multiple monitors, vs the 1 monitor limitation of the Spyder4Express.

If you end up needing the features of the Spyder4Elite later, you can just upgrade the software package (I'm not sure if it's more expensive that way vs buying the Elite outright, though).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I09WHLW x 2 - Speedlights - $56

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless Trigger - $19

https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4 - Light Stands - $29

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY - x2 - Cold Shoe - $22

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4 - Octobox - $23

https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though umbrella - $14

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW - 5 in 1 reflector - $20

That brings you for a full starting light setup that can be used for headshots and starting boudoir for $183. And you even have flexablity in there to use a 1 light setup with reflector or use 2 lights. You would want a few sandbags to keep the gear stable, but I am not including those in the price.

Now for a background setup

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00MTF6ZVC

Is a good basic stand but hard to fit under your budget with the above lighting gear.

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Collapsible-Backdrop-1-8x2-8m/dp/B00UWL02PU is also an okay starting backdrop, Grey can be turned into white or black. I will warn you that you will need a fabric steamer to get the lines out, but that is pretty much the same however you go with cloth. Another more expensive choice is to go with seamless paper, I love working with paper, but it is an ongoing expense to use it.

Now if you are going to make this her studio all the time, they make http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949 that you can use to make a great background. Or to me the better option if you are going to use a room as a full time studio, paint the walls, put down hardwood or laminate, and you have a great studio setup.

/u/chadaptation - congratulations on the new BMPCC! You might want to subscribe over at /r/bmpcc - lots of knowledgeable shooters there who can help you get the most out of your new camera.

The Pocket can be a pleasure to shoot with once a few challenges are overcome (e.g. the battery, LCD, ergonomics, small sensor crop and audio).

[Here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNogz62VyNhz8UOC-IHZPJFun72aIhJiKGNlpsKE8VDDUwk63tN53HA56TQfjElXg/photo/AF1QipMEweRTRutSEybNv7Y0ImOWdUNMkkW6o1uk9MEq?key=ckk3X2lsaU5JQlhsMGZFVUs4R2Q0S2M0UnlRcVVn) is a picture of my run and gun setup. With the pistol grip and LCD viewfinder, the camera becomes very easy to handle - while remaining fairly compact.

Here's the parts list:

• Pistol/trigger grip is a [$25.09 JJC HR-DV Remote Handle Pistol Grip for Blackmagic design pocket cinema camera] (https://www.amazon.com/JJC-HR-DV-Stabilizer-Camcorder-Blackmagic/dp/B00MRNP2LA//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• Viewfinder is the [$99 (on sale) Kinotehnik LCDVFBM] (http://adorama.evyy.net/c/60286/51926/1036?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.adorama.com%2FLCDVFBM.html)
  
  
• The shoe on top of the camera is a [$9.83 Alzo cold shoe adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/Blackmagic-Cinema-Cameras-ALZO-Digital/dp/B00HQPF7PU//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• The battery is a [Sony NP-F550, which is less than $10] (https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Replacement-NP-F550-Digital-Battery/dp/B0007Q9PWQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• The battery is mounted on a [$25.90 ILED NPF-Series Plate] (https://www.amazon.com/ILED-Battery-Adapter-BMPCC-HDV-Z96/dp/B00WLEKQS4//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• The battery plate is attached to the bottom of the pistol grip with a [$5.99 1/4" to 1/4" male to male screw] (https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-BIG-Double-Head-Stud/dp/B006TAGWT8//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  This battery/pistol grip setup is pretty flexible. Each battery lasts about 3 times longer than the built-in EL-20s - and you can add a [bottom mounted recorder] (https://www.amazon.com/TASCAM-DR-60DmkII-DSLR-Audio-Recorder/dp/B00MIXFBL0//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) or preamp without rigging, as seen [here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNkBeFcX8uG_KmLjMUGOKFzPWd79a9jshFvwGoqq-BMhqFHecC9CfqkVKJCRriU-w/photo/AF1QipPHVxKeVJxsgjqCi6poxlAkD3ACoscVDLufv6Z_?key=SEpOQWx6a1NMVV93NXd2NUFDcjhnZ3phTnk0Y0x3) - or, by adding a [couple of rails] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DUK1K3I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00DUK1K3I&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), plus a [$30 cold shoe extender] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B7QQ91U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00B7QQ91U&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) and a [shoulder pad] (https://www.amazon.com/Shoulder-Pad-for-Dslr-Rig/dp/B00BIPUQJQ//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), you can provide mounting points for a top mounted mic and a [ring light] (https://www.amazon.com/R-300-LED-Ring-Light-L-Bracket/dp/B00AY0J4OY//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) with a [rail mount] (https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-15mm-Rail-Mount-R-300/dp/B00GMYA9LI//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), as seen [here] (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPpNqf_6Br306Q0W7kOF50O_IYEvDDLk5lzIFkoxsNwcQ0voFS6WcxM7XZagYBXXw/photo/AF1QipPS1KToloOPWtwCPM9K-sJJx3_uYc3Ko3te6T67?key=c2ZKUjhpWUU3REhzT3pURUtZbkw0NExlcVc4R2dB).
  
  When I need to put the rig on a tripod, I remove the pistol grip and replace it with a [quick release plate] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010SIAV2/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0010SIAV2&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), as shown in [this video] (https://youtu.be/dYKjvnfwyvU).
  
  Hope this is helpful, good luck with your new camera and best of the holidays to you and yours!

My main job is creating educational videos, I work for a university creating all kinds of online content/course content (Engineering school so mostly math, science, etc), so I have a few ideas for what you can do. I do everything from just recording lectures to greenscreen + animations. The simplest and cheapest setup would be to use your phone on a tripod and a wired lav mic. If the lighting in your room is good (a big window or lots of lights in the room) that should be fine, but you can also get a [cheap lighting kit](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017D7W57S?ie=UTF8&tag=maxwell032-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B017D7W57S).

If you want to go a bit more interesting, you could try a light board (these are getting more popular). Sample Video here and How to build one. More money ($300-$1500 depending if you want to use a proper camera or your phone still) but the content can be more engaging and easier to use.

Another style that's becoming popular is to use a tablet while recording to superimpose writing overtop of video. I have also seen an overhead angle used to show a tabletop with paper to write on.

Let me know if you need any help! Happy to talk about this kind of stuff.

Links to store stuff are affiliate links

The sunshield will work, but it's pretty small - for softening light, it's the bigger and closer the source, the softer the light. Those 4x8' foam insulation panels cut in half are popular, or a frame with fabric stretched on it, or the round popups. Thing is, you need someone to hold them -they look more natural when held up and angled a bit upward - look at youtube videos. And when you're shooting, you can grab one and lift and angle it and watch the subject to find the sweet spot. You can also use a stand and something like a grip head to angle them, but if it's breezy they can be a problem, especially popups.

Scrim used as overheads are harder - you need someone to hold them WAY up or a pair of stands, they can slow you down. Look at these pics for ideas:

overhead

larger

when the sun is lower

stands

For fill flash, it often looks more natural off-camera - you can get a cheap bracket that attaches the flash to the stands and has an umbrella mount - then you just need a way to synch the flash, either a cable or a cheap chinese radio synch (like $30). Those are cool because you can leave it somewhat assembled as you move around. You won't have TTL with that, though I think there are some wireless TTL solutions out there.

I have this $15 cheapie and it's actually pretty good a reliable, but it won't fire with some of my vintage stuff, mainly big RB lenses.

Thank you and steal away lol.

Tip: I had to double up the flood lamps on each window. My original idea was one clamp/bulb per window but it wasn’t giving me the desired brightness so I doubled them up which looked great from the street. You’ll have to play around with it and see what works best for your needs.

I also had two studio light soft box stands lying around that really helped with the brightness and made it so I only had to use one bulb on two of the windows. I would have used just the studio light stands for all the windows if I had enough but I ran through my budget this year already so couldn’t get more. If you’d like, I can PM you a couple pictures of the setup for reference.

The soft box light stands I’m referring to:

Neewer 700W Professional Photography 24x24 inches/60x60 Centimeters Softbox with E27 Socket Light Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D7W57S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VDHMDb5HDB7QJ

/u/tokuturfey - this is what I suggest also.

Ring lights give you great light with or without a soft box. Here's a great review/tutorial on what you can achieve with a 3 point ring light setup using the Diva Ring Light: http://www.lafcpug.org/reviews/review_diva_ring.html

The great thing about the F&V ring light (unlike the Diva) is that it can be either battery or AC powered - and it is much smaller and easier to set up.

I have both the Diva and the F&V (as pictured [here] (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jrqsQtPN3TU/U1sjz3-jwnI/AAAAAAAAIt4/k2WveyQeO4o/w724-h543-no/P1120732.JPG)), and will buy the smaller F&V lights from now on.

You can get three [F&V ring lights with soft boxes for $269.99 each at Adorama] (http://www.adorama.com/FVSBBRLR300.html?KBID=66297).

Three ring lights, with 3 stands ([2 for $22] (http://amzn.to/1vjJXtl) and a [single for $15] (http://amzn.to/1tlfUDo)), 3 [$10 Sony FP-batteries] (http://amzn.to/1vjKvQ1) and an [$18.50 dual battery charger] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=111315155908&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) will give you a great 3 point lighting setup for less than $900.

Good luck!

if you're in a controlled environment and starting off but want some flexibility instead of like throw away lights, I'd recommend these. I picked these up before I started working with lighting to start upping the quality of my sets for a reasonable price.

Hopefully this fulfills your needs.

The panels come by themselves so you'd need light stands and batteries/ac adapters.

15W LED panel with controllable WB, brightness, ok diffuser, with excellent build quality and light quality.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0VDOGX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WMBACbR8EQH95

These are the stands i use with it

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=pd_aw_sim_421_of_20?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00K69A0QY&pd_rd_r=4d2f8b3c-32ed-11e9-9916-7fe6d01b346e&pd_rd_w=RqPSv&pd_rd_wg=khx5z&pf_rd_p=469620d9-3e90-496d-9dc8-b19f900ba5fe&pf_rd_r=HAKTWDZ21BWGF51HWG43&psc=1&refRID=WC3EXZSZCRPV77880CEX

This a charger/batteries for it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JMFZ9CW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EWBACbG88NJT0

• Night or dusk might work, better especially if there's any kind of interesting view out that window. If not it's okay to blow it out a little. Try a few shots in the evening when the incoming light won't be so harsh that it distorts the area around the blinds. Open then a bit so that the light bounces up to the ceiling. Try a few different angles and see what works best
  
  
• Start by setting up softer light. See that hard shadow from the desk lamp? It looks like a ceiling fan light which is pretty hard light; and a little too warm (orange). It'd be nice to diffuse that and use a cooler, whiter/bluer bulb. You can play with these cheap reflector combos that have a translucent inner section that you can shoot light through to make it a much "bigger" source of light, thus softer shadows. You can rig that up and play around with it and see what that gives you. If your walls aren't white, the cold daylight CFL bulbs can add some color to the room by bouncing off those wall colors
  
  
• For an even bigger light source, bring in a couple white-ish CFL bulbs and point them at the ceiling with one or two clip lights. Any DIY rig is fine as long as you are bouncing the light of of the walls or the ceiling to make a bigger light source
  
  
• Switch the headphone stand with the plant and turn on the desk lamp to shine light on it. You might need a less powerful bulb or a dimmer switch of some kind to match the exposure
  
  
• You could go for a more dramatic image by waiting until night, and using those clip lights and foil to make spotlights (snoots) and really control where areas are illuminated. Use cellophane or a cheap pack of gels for colors if you're into that.
  
  
• Check out a YouTube channel called "workphlo." Dude is a master of quick, "easy," DIY studio lighting and editing tutorials. It's very inspiring to play with lights and compositing in Photoshop/Gimp

Hello /r/Photography!

I wonder if I can turn to some professionals and camera enthusiasts for some assistance..

I am primarily a retoucher, I have been retouching for over 5 years but I have always had a problem with getting the rights to show the before and after images so I decided to get a professional camera and get into photography myself.
if you are interested my portfolio can be found here: http://www.lulielens.com

Since I have been looking at images for a long time I already know what kind of look and style I would like to get, but I am completely clueless on the topic of camera gear and equipment (though I am looking to change this).

First here are some example images I like in terms of lighting:

Example 1
Example 2
Example 3
Example 4
Example 5


Here is my semi-final list. Could you equipment pros let me know if they will work properly together, or if I missed anything else you think I might need (to start with).

I have a Canon 5d mark ii with a 100mm/2.8f lens.

1. Cactus V5 Wireless Flash Trigger (2 Pack + a single for 3 total)
   
   
   
2. Reflectors - 5 in 1 Translucent, Silver, Gold, White, and Black Collapsible Round Multi Disc Light Reflector 32 INCH
   
   
   
3. Tripod - Sirui ET-1004 Aluminum Tripod with E-10 Ball Head
   
   
   
4. beauty dish option: Pro Studio Solutions EZ-Pro 32in (80cm) Beauty Dish and Softbox Combination w/ Hensel Speedring - Soft Collapsible Beauty Dish with Speedring for Bayonet Mountable Strobe, Flash and Monolights
   
   
   
5. 2x ProMaster PL400 Advanced LCD Control Studio Monolight
   
   
   
6. 250W Replacement Modeling Lamp
   
   
   
7. 2x Promaster SystemPro LS-2 Deluxe Light Stand
   
   Thank you for taking the time to help!
   
   
   

your vids are getting better, bro. And your recipes are amazing :) I would've never thought of making curry paste. I gotta try it now.

I still think that you could shave a minute off of this by doing more dynamic cuts, even though i did notice you playing with speed ramping -- looking good. One big thing i was thrown off by in this one was camera shake when you were pounding the paste and when you slam your fist on the table :) Setting up a tripod may be a little more work, but it will help out. Also, watch your shadows when doing an overhead shot. I think you need more of those, but you would need an LED light to help you with those. Check this one out, it's affordable and very versatile. It can give your dishes some really desirable light. https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1550150996&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=yongnuo+led+light+wand&psc=1&smid=AMIHU7JS0U6DA

​

also, check out my channel when you get a chance :) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC05j4axvVhIUu0FOr3zzkLg

​

For the camera, i think a G7 should do the job, but if you don't even move that much and have a somewhat broader field of view, maybe a set focus will even do the job.

For audio i'd personally get a sound recorder from zoom or tascam and a cable - lav which will cost you 120$ to 150$ and get you great results.

For lightning i'd take something like https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492541966&sr=8-3&keywords=neewer+led

with some cheap tripods, because your indoors mostly there should be no worrys, and they can be powered per battery, too.

Software... Davinci Resolve ist free if you only want to work in a 1080p workflow and even for like 20$ a month you get get the full adobe cc bundle. And yeah you don't want to spend much money there, but many things can be created with the combination of Premiere, AfterEffects and Audition.

Yes - We set up the sparkly backdrop and bought TONS of fun props at the dollar store and online. Big hits were inflatables (inflatable pickle, inflatable flamingoes), glow necklaces and LED batons, and the Mexican luchador wrestling masks. We put a big sign on an easel with our hashtag to encourage people to share their photos and videos. I rented two super bright LED lights from my photographer so that the area was really well lit for quality pics. We paid for a 2nd shooter as part of our photography package and she was basically stationed there from after dinner through the end of the contract taking pictures of guests at the station, in addition to guests taking their own pictures with their phone.

Here's the backdrop frame I bought from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BCNRTY/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=zySdW&pf_rd_r=Y65QGMR8EF2PC6J56FV6&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B072BCNRTY&pd_rd_w=ICthz&pf_rd_i=photo+backdrop+frame&pd_rd_r=ce238929-391a-45ca-bec2-14844bc4c535&ie=UTF8&qid=1540929096&sr=1

​

The silver sparkly backdrop was from Etsy - https://www.etsy.com/listing/263963777/sequin-photo-backdrop-sequence-wedding?ref=shop_home_feat_1

​

Nicholas Cage from was from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Nicolas-Cage-Life-Size-Cutout-x/dp/B00WUN7FFI/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1540929167&sr=1-1&keywords=nicholas+cage+cardboard+cutout

​

We also did cutout big heads on sticks of us (bride & groom), our cats, Guy Fieri, and George & Gil from Oh, Hello (Nick Kroll and John Mulaney) from Build-A-Head.com - they have groupons available for discounts!

The most important piece of a good calibration is a monitor with even backlighting and great color range, gradation, and accuracy at different luminance levels.

To get a real good calibration you're going to need a colorimeter. They are pretty expensive. Most IPS monitors claiming to be good for design work are factory calibrated, which makes it mostly unnecessary to do it yourself.

Some computer shops will have a service offered to calibrate the colors; quality varies.

The cheapest way is to use the built-in calibration that Windows has. If you have a good eye and some good color swatches, you can get a halfway decent calibration.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DFP6M4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used two of these. I guess $80 for both isn't exactly "cheap" but for lighting it is, and given the quality boost it gave me it seemed a worthwhile investment. Especially if youre the kind of person to sell your replaced GPU's etc. on ebay, you also get value there by having nicer pics. I'm glad you liked the pics!

If you want the camera to just see whatever product, and arms/hands, it will need to be as close to directly overhead as possible.

But since you only have one tripod at the moment, I might suggest trying to place the camera as directly over your daughters head as possible. Have her sit, and then position the tripod legs so that the camera can be just above and as much out in front of your daughters head as possible, so that she will basically be sitting under the tripod.

Please secure the tripod, because I was 15 once and the thing might probably get knocked over at one point.

A better solution for this particular angle you mention would be to get two stands and a crossbar, such as those made for holding photographic backgrounds.

Add to that a clamp with 1/4-20 mounting screw and you can safely attach the camera to the crossbar, have it overhead, and not worry so much about things being knocked over. This also get the camera out of the way should you want to setup a second camera for shooting a different angle.

Clamp: https://www.amazon.com/SmallRig-Ballhead-Multi-function-Adapter-Ronin-M/dp/B00DJ5XH4O/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540209251&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=camera+mount+clamp&psc=1

There are better and worse options, and since I don't know which camera you have at the moment, here is a generic type of mount that could work for the situation.

The background stand:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BCNRTY/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=E8goB&pf_rd_r=JDNSYA2WH7VPFQXK5NWX&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B072BCNRTY&pd_rd_w=ydei2&pf_rd_i=photo+background+stand&pd_rd_r=78d3d95b-dba0-4370-b6ec-4ba5c7cac38b&ie=UTF8&qid=1540209393&sr=1

This is something cheap that would get the job done, and with the clamp would allow you to position the camera over the table.

However, if the camera is larger than a basic mirrorless a6300, another solution might be in order.

Here is an overhead tripod that might support a bit more weight if you had a full size DSLR:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Magnesium-Aluminium-Overhead-Professional/dp/B073ZC46SL/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540209508&sr=1-3&keywords=overhead+camera+tripod

The problem being it doesn't allow for great positioning, just like your current tripod.


Hope these ideas help.

I’m really sorry if this is a question you have all answered time and time again, but I’m REALLY getting ready to start learning the trade and this is kind of the last detail I want to get in order.... and it’s lighting.

I live in a rather small apartment on the ground floor, and there’s a decent amount of natural light that comes through our sliding door wall. Sadly... the angle it comes in at and the time frames that it actually comes through our window (not blocked by trees) don’t give me a lot of room to work with. I was scrolling through Amazon and happened across these two lights Amazon, which looks like an okay deal. I’d like to get some cheap items to bounce the light around like some of those white foam boards, but I wanted some input from you guys to see if these are a bust/bad option. I’m mostly going to be doing filming at my desk talking at the camera as well as some clips of “POV” angles where the camera is on a tripod between myself and the desk.

Good questions. (Warning Wall of text ahead)

TL:DR

• 1. Try some soft lights so they don't reflect off your wall
     
• 2. Pick times that work for you and stick with them. Will power is a muscle, Exercise it.
     
• 3. Decide if you want foot traffic (viewers that show up for a game) or viewers (followers that tune in for any game). Foot traffic only comes from games and visibility. Viewers come from foot traffic that you won over with your personality.
     
     

1. Now i've done very little with lighting my cast my info may just be a place to start looking.
   Lighting is always tricky, there are 2 ways you can go about it.
   First is using some propper defuse/soft lighting will work the best. Something like http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Continuous-Lighting-AGG702/dp/B005DFP6M4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1451332880&sr=8-3&keywords=soft+lights Should light your face without bouncing off your red walls creating the miscolor.
   Second you may be able to go into your webcam controls and play with the saturation and remove some of the excess red color. As for exact settings i'm unsure but you should be able to get the picture to a more desirable asthetic.
   
   
2. Schedule is all up to you. As a student i've suffered the woes of having to change my schedule...A lot. But here are a few tips for picking the best times. If your work schedule changes a lot, Look for trends in the changes and pick times your work wont schedule you to work. That way you can always stream those times. As for your side job, you could incorporate that into your stream, and just stream working on the graphics. And finally whatever you decide, Remeber the channel is a show. If you pick times you're making a promise to your viewers that you'll be there rain or shine. Sometimes you'll be sick, Dead tired, or have real life stress distracting you. But if you truely want a consistent schedule its up to you to exorcise the will power to maintain whatever schedule you set.
   
3. There are so many different ideas and theories as to how to get more viewers. None of them confirmed, all of them believed. So why don't I just tell you what I've noticed working, and not working. First, There is a difference between foot traffic and viewers. Foot traffic are people that pop into your stream becuase they noticed you playing a game they are interested in watching. Viewers are the people that follow your channel and watch no matter what your playing. Some will argue its easier to influence your foot traffic, Others will say its easier to influence your viewers. I believe both camps have marret but I'm going to be frank, if you find a game that has good foot traffic, and the viewers to push you to the top ten of that game. Foot traffic will give you crazy numbers for your channel. BUT that doesnt mean you're gaining any viewers from that game. Its very often that you'll be experiencing one time spikes. That being said the only way to gain viewers is by having foot traffic and being a caster they like when they pop in. So what influences foot traffic? How active a games community is, How many streamers are broadcasting that game. Basically you have to find the combination of game you stream well, that people are looking for, and you show up at the top in. Example, I was one of the few people with a 3ds capture card when Pokemon X/Y came out, and I averaged 40 viewers and gained about 700 follows in a month. I stopped playing pokemon went back to 10 viewers and 50 follows a month. You've just got to find an audience to cast to. But you have to decide if you just want foot traffic or viewers.

Thanks so much!

Someone else recommended these. Do you think they would work well? I like the fact that there are three, but will they look as good?

Also, someone recommended F&V Ring Lights. I love the fact that I can use batteries, but I can't find many reviews on them to see what they would look like.

I'm a former lighting tech, so my view is skewed, BUT:

I'd get yourself a Rosco Swatch Book (or another brand, but whatever), and test out the different diffusion "gels" they have. They're plastic film, and pretty temp tolerant you will not hurt them with these LEDs. make yourself a little holder frame, and see which you like best. Then, if the swatch isn't big enough, just order one sheet of that "color", which will be WAY more than you need.

disclaimer: I refer to these as "gels" "colors", etc. It will have Hundreds of colored gels, but also a lot of diffusion and other "effect" type films.

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have the first set, having two lights is super nice and allows for a lot of flexibility regarding setups. Also makes it super easy to use fun color gels, can't recommend them enough.

Hey /u/Coooooooooookies,

I saw you had posted a reply, but then I couldn't respond because it was deleted? I'm not sure if you meant to do that, but I already had a response.

EDIT: Ah they didn't like your shortened urls. It was delayed in posting that message.

I'll paste my response below:

I'm glad it helped!

I would avoid fabric, unless you like ironing! Wrinkles would definitely ruin that boutique look. That stand and probably the clips are too weak to support a wrinkle free vinyl backdrop, and upgrading those would be pricey.

So you could go with seamless paper, it comes in different widths, but you have to cut it to length. It's reusable so long as it doesn't get soiled or bent. It's a little pricer as it comes in big rolls in case you need more. $40 for 53" by 12 yards or $65 for 86" by 12 yards.

Also, I don't know if you already watched Tony and Chelsea's studio tour, but they make a great suggestion about filling sandbags with gravel/stone, because it's way easier to clean than sand if it leaks!

Hello Everyone,

I am making this post about a Studio Continuous Lighting Kit by Fovitec I bought for use since I am a beginner. However while I intend to make good use of it I have some conerns. I knew what I was paying for, and understood it was a continuous lighting kit but I am a bit regretful I bought it before seeing the video that showed how it was assembled. I am not sure if I should work with it the best I can or sell it and get a better continuous lighting kit.

Here are my concerns,

• The Softboxes where hard to get on and I won't be removing them so they will stay on.
  
• There is a inner defuser that should I put on will touch the light bulbs used. I am concerned the fabric light burn because the bulbs will touch it.
  
• The Case itself opens on the side with the carrying handles on top, which is awkward.
  
• I may have to keep the soft boxes and lightbulbs attached when transporting, and just keep the stands, power cords and the hanging soft box with the hanging weight inside when transporting.
  
• It comes and used standard 45W photo fluorescent spiral daylight light bulbs. For those who have used this kit, what are some other lightbulbs to buy for it. Are there LED lights that would work with it?
  
• Has anyone used this for photography and had good success with it?

Unanswered question from the previous megathread

Author /u/HypridElastiAccord27 - (Permalink)

Hello Everyone,

I am making this post about a Studio Continuous Lighting Kit by Fovitec I bought for use since I am a beginner. However while I intend to make good use of it I have some conerns. I knew what I was paying for, and understood it was a continuous lighting kit but I am a bit regretful I bought it before seeing the video that showed how it was assembled. I am not sure if I should work with it the best I can or sell it and get a better continuous lighting kit.

Here are my concerns,

• The Softboxes where hard to get on and I won't be removing them so they will stay on.
  
• There is a inner defuser that should I put on will touch the light bulbs used. I am concerned the fabric light burn because the bulbs will touch it.
  
• The Case itself opens on the side with the carrying handles on top, which is awkward.
  
• I may have to keep the soft boxes and lightbulbs attached when transporting, and just keep the stands, power cords and the hanging soft box with the hanging weight inside when transporting.
  
• It comes and used standard 45W photo fluorescent spiral daylight light bulbs. For those who have used this kit, what are some other lightbulbs to buy for it. Are there LED lights that would work with it?
  
• Has anyone used this for photography and had good success with it?

A couple cheap bigger lights will go a very long way! This kit would probably meet most of your needs if you're shooting indoors. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HMLJDbS37VVAJ
Add your on camera light as a rim light and you've got some pretty good 3 point lighting for less than $150.

Also, remember to really focus on audio as well! Arguably the most important part of video. :)

Good luck!

Wedding Videographer for 12 years here.... I used a monopod to shoot 98% of my weddings as the primary video, with a tripod as the secondary stand. You can get a monopod for about $15.00 from Walmart or you can go the more expensive route and get one for about 100.00 + dollars from a pro camera shop. For the actual ceremony, I always placed my tripod camera to the entrance and I would stand near the front by the Groom as the Bride came up the isle... edited together is was very professional. The monopod will give you the option to move out of the way during the ceremony. The lav mic was only used for the vows because when you go to edit you will have to go from the sound in the room to the mic... if you try and place both together you will get an echo. Find out ahead of time if there are any speeches, toasts, dances, bouquet toss ahead of time so you can be ready for them during the reception (get a schedule if you can). Don't shoot people eating food and keep the reception as natural as you can. I would keep the reception to one camera on your monopod... you will catch all of the action and keep your editing down to a minimum after the fact (important). Lighting.... I used those LED lights that run about $24.00 on amazon - (see link at the end) ... hope you have external lighting to prevent grainy video footage. Ask the photographer for still shots of groups so you can use them in your video ... using the "Ken Burns Effect" in your video editor. If your going to do a montage remember, people look more romantic and elegant when slowed down in your editor... Good luck... and oh yea... watch out for your equipment and drunks putting their drinks down near your stuff... one spill of a soft drink and its done for.

Here is an example of a small wedding for an older couple (2nd marriage) that I did a few years ago. It was shot with a single GoPro Camera on a monopod. The wedding took place in a courtyard in the French Quarter of New Orleans and features a short intro montage. - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OXxVpNqnbyQ

​

Link to camera light - https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Cameras-Battery-Included/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=newer+led+video+light&qid=1570037334&sr=8-5

Ha I think you gave yourself some good feedback at the beginning of the video - you could already see the finished look, so the viewer doesn't need to wait until the end/watch more :) You could put the finished look in the thumbnail instead and do your outro with it.

As you're doing makeup videos I'd also recommend getting some better lighting (doesn't have to be expensive), I bought this one and it is quite good: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Neewer-Dimmable-Panasonic-Batteies-Included/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=video+lighting+led&qid=1563132285&refinements=p_89%3ANeewer&rnid=1632651031&s=photo&sr=1-5

I want to record professional course at home which will be sold in online course sites. This will include talking head and screen casting, I use Screencast. My recording area size is 2X2 meters with very few light shines in. Help me build a decent studio in 500$:

1. Lens - I own Sony Nex 6 with Sigma prime 19mm. Not sure if this lens is optimized for video or what to look at lenses for video shooting. Saw other wide lenses at 250$, not sure if I should buy
   My sigma: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/918897-REG/sigma_19mm_f_2_8_dn_for.html
   
   
2. Lighting - will this kit be enough? any remarks regarding this choice:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072Q42GXQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A3QDQQZGFBPIAD&psc=1
   
   
3. Tripod - how should I choose Tripod for my Nex 6: is there a standard connector that all cameras in the world support? how should I filter Amazon tripod results and get only those that fit my camera?
   
   Any other thoughts will be blessed

Alrighty, absolute novice, noob, beginner and totally clueless person here, please bare with me. ELI5 level answers if possible please. I own a record distro and i'm looking to take my own product photos of the products i'm selling because the stock ones are always crap/non existent. I'd like to take photos like this-

http://kingsroadmerch.com/epitaph-records/view/?id=4291&cid=17
http://kingsroadmerch.com/epitaph-records/view/?id=3989&cid=17
http://kingsroadmerch.com/epitaph-records/view/?id=3897&cid=17

What kind of lighting, tent and stand setup would I need for this? Would something like this do the job? -

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Table-Photo-Studio-Light/dp/B001MYASTG/ref=pd_sim_e_29


I am on a reasonably tight budget and understand the iPhone 5s(which I just ordered for unrelated reasons) actually has a pretty solid camera. Would I be able to get close to similar results using it's camera with this setup?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Thank you! That's actually something I've been attempting to improve lately. Historically I was using my iPhone, because attempts to use a DSLR looked even worse (because I had no idea what I was doing). After becoming a wee bit more knowledgeable on a recent vacation in Yellowstone and the Grand Tetons, I became determined to finally improve my indoor shots. I found some surprisingly reasonable equipment on Amazon for background and lighting (lighting x2, tabletop backdrop stand, background paper, clamps to hold the paper taut), leveraged tripods I already owned and used one of my Pentax DSLRs (A K20D in this case). I still auto-leveled all the images on my computer, but hopefully they are better than in the past.

If it's an indoor location with no windows, you might be hard pressed to get nice images without a flash. The ISO performance on the d5300 isn't fantastic. I would look into possibly getting video lights, or a flash to light your images, you can pick up both from yongnuo pretty cheap.

The best moments to pick up here would be if she had family or friends she's interacting with, you can only take so many pictures of her getting her hair done before it gets boring. Look for laughs and interactions, good luck!

I bought this Viltrox VL-162T based on /u/maukka's measurements and positive opinion of the related L116T. I know it's not a flashlight, but it runs on batteries, can be handheld and makes light, so I think it goes here. No, that does not make it OK to post your new phone.

This is intended to be a camera light. It can run on a Sony NP-F battery or a 12V, 2.1mm barrel plug. It has hot shoe mounts and 1/4" anchor points. My Opus BT-C3100 power supply works with it, for example. I bought this power supply from Banggood for it, but do not recommend it. The first one failed entirely. Banggood sent a replacement, which does not seem to maintain its voltage under load; it will power the Viltrox panel, but has problems with the Opus charger. I also added this cheap mini tripod which I do not recommend for this application because it's not wide enough for satisfactory stability with this light on it.

I believe these use Yuji BC series 5mm LEDs, and the light produced is beautiful at all color temperature settings (3300-5600K claimed). It's rare you'll see this from me, but I don't think this light needs more Nichia. These emitters are perfect as they are.

What it does need is more 18650. I soldered and glued an 18650 carrier where the NP-F battery is meant to go. It runs for 80 minutes on a pair of HG2s, staying over 90% output the whole time and shuts off without warning at about 7.0V. The display blinks at this point to indicate low battery. Given that, it's not safe for the batteries to leave unattended indefinitely, but I bet two 18650s at 3.5V can power that blinking display for a long time before they get over-discharged. Plugging in a power supply results in voltage across the battery contacts, but only a few microamps of current will flow between them. It will not charge the batteries.

Claimed output is 1070 lumens. That seems about right, but I don't have a way to integrate a light this size. There's a diffuser included, but it seems to dim the light more than spread it. I haven't found it useful.

This thing is awesome. It makes a great room light or desk lamp with appropriate power and mounting accessories. That it's battery capable makes it even better. I've been using it in the bathroom when I shave because there are no outlets and I'm not satisfied with the fixed lighting. My only complaint is that the minimum output is 20%, and I'd like it lower.

I have the Neewer CN-160 which are LED fixtures for only $27.95 on Amazon. Of course these are cheap and have a color cast. They do, however, operate off of NP-F550 batteries so if you plan on filming on a location without wall outputs, you can easily use these. Although, just as HybridCamRev said, The F&V R-300 Ring Lights are great options but more expensive. They're brighter and can hang right over the lens of your camera or off on a light stand. These are great because you only need one to evenly lite your subject (in this case, yourself). It all just depends on your budget.

Awesome! I hope you do trying it out! Here's what I got.

Camera: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019UDIDXS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio Recorder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DPOXS8I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mic (Same we use for podcasting) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IPUJJI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lighting Kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KRN0SEI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ring Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1UCDKU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a subscription of Adobe Creative Suite and use almost all of it. After Effect and Premiere. We use Cubase for audio engineering but Audition is great too.

I just recently started using this one. Maybe not the highest quality, but I do photography just for fun right now, so there's not much point in shelling out $50 or more for a nicer one. It does the job and it's easy to carry.

The basic principles of light are quality, direction, and luminosity.

Quality is how hard or soft the light is. Having a larger light source will produce softer light, that's why softboxes are so large. Keep that in mind if you're going with a DIY option. (Also remember that larger is relative to the subject, so having a light a lot closer makes the light larger, and therefore softer)

Direction is obviously the direction of the light. The most popular use of lighting in facecams is two lights each at 45 degrees from your face. This will give the most even and pleasing light. Experiment and see what you like. Other uses for a two light setup can be things like key light, fill light, and rim light. Look these terms up if you want to learn more.

Lumonisty is the power of the light, and this can be controlled through the light itself or the exposure settings of your webcam. Try to find a good balance and capture realistic skin tones.

Using these principles this is how my facecam looks using two of these and a Logitech C920

Depends on the desk specs I would assume and if you want them to face outward towards the user. You’ll need something rigid to tack/attach the diffusion material and custom form it to the edge of the desk (if I’m understanding that correct, that is).

There are diffusion gels (they’re like thin plastic sheets - paper thin) and fabrics (typically used in photography) that you can cut and wrap around a frame. Order a Rosco Swatch Book to see what would work for you.

Or you can do indirect placement and put it under/behind the desk. Don’t necessarily need diffusion if you’re hitting the wall or something since you 1. Would be using the wall as a sort of diffusion and 2. Won’t be looking at it directly. Unless you can see hot spots/uneven light spread, you may not need anything.

Overall, I would recommend an aluminum rail LED strip housing with diffusion insert. I would recommend these for almost every home LED project, outside of anything drastic which would require much more work. This is the easiest and best looking solution.

I just got this light and so far it fkin rocks. You can probably find something for half the price if you look hard, but this thing puts out a lot. I plan on getting a second in the future.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01934RL0U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MI5VMO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Other than that check out YouTube. It's a well of content and there are honestly too many to list.

Next Level Painting

Jack of Clubs Painting

Slow Fuse Gaming

Sonic Sledgehammer

Midwinter Minis

Also TWITCH. A lot of people streaming live content and will take questions from viewers as they're working. I pretty much always have someone running on screen while I'm building/painting.

If you want to go one step further, there are people who do private solo or group classes thru Patreon.

Photography light stands (something like this) might be your best bet. I've used these with the lighthouses in the past for less-permanent VR setups, and just ziptied them to the top. Worked great!

This is your camera. It can focus on objects 1cm from the lens so you can get really good detail. Frankly, you can even go cheaper than this since all of the Fuji Finepix series have a great macro lens that will work perfectly for what you need. Maybe get an older model and a light tent for photo shoots.

I'm buying a backdrop and stand setup. AKA, Muslin holder.

Just looking for any advice on what to buy. Maybe there's a favored brand or standard for this type of thing?

It will be used for portraits and product photography.

This Julius Studio one seems entry level and slightly more favored on amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072BCNRTY/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00E6GRHBO

I also need the muslin backdrops, in at least white and black. Would also like medium grey. I guess I could make use of green.

So maybe this package?
https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Studio-Adjustable-Background-Backdrop/dp/B075SQG2HW/ref=pd_sbs_421_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075SQG2HW&pd_rd_r=F6YC1P4VZKX44WD280RP&pd_rd_w=0Lhev&pd_rd_wg=LZm7z&psc=1&refRID=F6YC1P4VZKX44WD280RP


Thanks

If you want a studio look use a $35 softbox/lightbox with several lights on the outside. Household bulbs will work fine as long as you have a bunch of them but floodlights would work better. Use the same lightbulbs because different ones will give you different color mixtures.

This setup is best if you plan to continually produce new product and you want consistent background and lighting for each photo over time.

If you can return those I would. Those are meant for larger studios and not really for constant light.

If you can look into led panels. They have dimmers and you can mix in yellow and blue light to get the perfect balance for your room, especially if you have any natural light coming through a window.

Look at these, I'm pretty sure it's what I use (I steal them from my husband who's a videographer) and they are amazing! (Not an affiliated link btw)

Neewer Dimmable Bi-Color LED with U Bracket Professional Video Light for Studio, YouTube Outdoor Video Photography Lighting Kit, Durable Metal Frame, 480 LED Beads, 3200-5600K, CRI 96+ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01934RL0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OiArDbD2DT7J9

Hmmmm, personally I would go with the less expensive camera and a nice lighting setup. Then I would upgrade your camera later on if you want/need to. I don't know that camera but it seems to have pretty good reviews. If you are just using it for facecam with gameplay then you'll be scaling down the video anyways so it shouldn't matter as much.

I use two of these lights for my lighting and it works well.

Have had good luck with these, but it depends on your set up too:

Neewer 2 Packs Dimmable Bi-Color... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Neewer 18-inch Outer Dimmable SMD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJDD3NL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Good luck!

Honestly, I think you’ll be unhappy going cheap in the beginning. You’ll probably want to upgrade later on, so you might want to save some extra money for better equipment. But if that’s not an option right now, I totally understand!

You really can’t go wrong with the Yongnuo flashes. Check those out to see which one fits your needs and is in your price range. These triggers are pretty decent. You’ll want a nice bracket for your umbrella and flash. These stands are also fairly decent.

I agree with u/greypowerOz, I'd definitely start looking into off-camera flashes! My favorite OFCs are actually super affordable, they're the Neewer TT560 and they're great starter flashes. You can also gel them really easily with a pack of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG. It's a sample cine gel pack; I got mine for free in film school but they're wicked cheap and the perfect size for flashes.

Open Source Software

• exiftool Command-line metadata editing tool.
  
• dcraw Command-line RAW processing tool.
  
• GIMP Photo editing.
  
• Blender Video editing.
  
• Audacity Audio editing.
  
• OBS Studio. Realtime streaming and clip production.
  
• Darktable. Light table and raw developer.
  
  Proprietary Software
  
  
• ManyCam Pro - freeware software that enables webcam use with multiple chat applications simultaneously, such as Skype, Omegle, Chatroulette, MSN, or YouTube
  
• OnyxServers - white label video streaming / hosting service
  
  Hardware
  
  
• [Logitech C922x webcam] (https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Webcam-Widescreen-Calling-Recording/dp/B01LXCDPPK/) - well-reviewed webcam.
  
• [Fovitec StudioPRO softbox lighting kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-StudioPRO-Softbox-Lighting-Softboxes/dp/B00KRN0SEI) - Good lighting is essential for high quality videos/photos.
  
• Blue Yeti microphone - well-reviewed microphone
  
• Microphone shock mount - Reduce rumbles from stand / desk.
  
• Microphone foam windscreen - Reduce pressure on the microphone sensor from wind, breath blasts, and splosives ("b" and "p" sounds). One thing to note, a mic windscreen often will dampen higher frequencies more than a pop filter will.
  
• Microphone pop filter - Same purpose as foam windscreen, but doesn't dampen high frequencies as much.
  
• Microphone boom stand - Useful if you want to capture good sound on your bed / couch.
  
• HyperX Cloud II USB Headset - good for phone sex, video editing.
  
  Tutorials
  
  
• DIY ultimate tripod with camera boom
  
• DIY Mini Camera Jib Crane $25 dollars
  
• Easy DIY Camera Crane Jib - Complete parts list

For the best combination of cost, quality of light, and ease of use, I've found that these type of light tents are easily the best, and this is coming from someone who was a professional studio photographer for over 20 years.

They give a wonderful, even, soft light with almost any kind of light source, and with camera technology what it is today it's almost impossible to make a bad photo using one of these things, even with an inexpensive camera.

Here's a shot of my Hasegawa 1/48 A-7E shot inside one using a flash head in an umbrella on each side. Nice, even exposure all-over, no worries about shadows, and set up in about 15 minutes.

I'm looking to get into shooting more 'studio' portraits. I want to get a cheap continuous lighting set-up for my house, that way I can use it for filming and also for some portrait work with analog cameras. Do you think that continuous lighting would be enough? I shoot with pretty fast glass normally. I was looking to get the Neewer 700W Set because of the price and I have had good luck with their products in the past. Any suggestions or advice is appreciated!

Thank you! Ok, I will check more the G7. I did not mention that but want to buy these lights, seems pretty good for the price: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Packs-Dimmable-Bi-Color-Lighting/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541656546&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=neewer+2+packs+dimmable+bi-color+480+led+video+light&dpPl=1&dpID=510kZrykw6L&ref=plSrch

This brand is great for the budget conscious. I have this version and it is excellent for the price. The fan would be noisy for video in a quiet setting where you need silence, but for most video and for stills, it's great.

Oh yeah, like I said, all 3 of my sensors are on tripods that can extend almost as high as the ceiling. I've tried moving them all over the place and up and down. Every time I think I finally fixed it my left hand randomly floats off into space on a harder song. This has been going on for 6-months plus, I've pretty much given up on Rift.

unfortunately i only have time to make video at night.

Clamp light like this one ?

For the light bulb, how many wattage do i need for a small room (10 feet x 9 feet)?

I think i can buy one cheap diffuser, but i don't know the differences between the one that looks like umbrella, or softbox

If i can only buy one, which 1 is better?

Thanks

The AmazonBasics flash is ~$30 and is just a rebranded Neewer model. It's full manual, but if you're shooting off camera with speedlights, with the A6000 that's the only game in town anyway. (If there's a TTL wireless transmitter/receiver out there for the Sony multi-interface shoe, I'm not sure).

For stands and umbrellas, when I started off Cowboy Studio stuff was inexpensive and relatively good quality to price. I'm not sure if it's still that way, but if you're looking to keep it cheap to start with, it's not a bad way to go. Same with their wireless transmitter, but Neewer has one for $16 on Amazon right now that comes with 2 receivers.

(The one thing to keep in mind is that the hotshoe on the black A6000 is painted/coated, so the transmitter may have issues grounding, but I haven't had one of these in hand for several years, and I'm having difficulty remembering if the transmitter required a ground spot in the first place, as it's just a simple "pop the flash" affair. You should be fine though.)

So for a starter kit to learn off camera stuff, I'd say go with 2 of the AmazonBasics Flashes

This umbrella/stand kit

And the above mentioned trigger set. That's around $130 and two lights should be plenty to get you started. Maybe even consider getting some softboxes while you're at it.

Since you're just getting started with it, I wouldn't dump too much money into it for now. Those two flashes with umbrellas/soft boxes will be plenty to just get the basics down, learn the different lighting styles, and decide if shooting with flash is where you want to go.

From there, shelling out for some PocketWizards, Profoto strobes, and all the high end kit is up to you!

First, I'm no dude, and how I did the blacks? Light box. Great for doing macro/still life of anything and not really that expensive. Mine had a couple of 'velvet' coloured backdrops which is how I got my black background (I think the one I linked may be the exact one I had).

Also you can make your own with a cardboard box and big sheets of paper, but these will give you better results.

And cheers for the comments!

New to photography. Apologies if this was discussed elsewhere on here but I could not find it for the life of me. I recently decided to try off camera flash and bought a Godox TT685N kit and a octo softbox to diffuse the light. I'm really enjoying shooting with it but I can't help but notice sometimes that I have shadows in places I don't want on my subject and was wondering is it a good idea to buy another flash or combine flash with continuous light or some kind of fill light to save a little money? So far the speedlight is the only lighting equipment I use and I primarily shoot indoors. I was looking at these to add to my lighting kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017D7W57S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I pickup up a set of these a little while back:

Rosco Rosco Lux Small Swatchbook https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ER2YG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It was like $5. I pulled all of the shades of orange to find what works best with my phone/lights.

As a bonus there's a bunch of reds that you can cover your flashlight with to do some night creeping!

I’m starting to get into lighting. The goal is for portrait work outdoors.

A friend was kind enough to give me 2 yonguo speed lights and a trigger that he doesn’t use anymore. He told me to buy this:

Neewer 2 Pack 33"/84cm White Translucent Soft Umbrella for Photo and Video Studio Shooting

Camera Flash Speedlite Mount,ChromLives Professional Swivel Light Stand Light Bracket Umbrella Bracket Mount Shoe Holder E Type for Canon Nikon Pentax Olympus Nissin Metz and Other Speedlite Flashes

AmazonBasics Aluminum 7-Foot Light Stand with Case - 2-Pack

Can someone explain the difference between that and something like this?

He said to go as cheap as possible, but after you factor in the tax the amazon option is about ~$10 cheaper. My gut is telling me to go with the B&H because of the vast amount of positive reviews. What are your thoughts?

Depends on what you are shooting, most point and shoots from nikon or canon should be ok at the high end of your budget.

Your S5 probably has as much power as any low end camera, but the lens is what will make a difference in getting good shots.

If you can find a cheap used dslr, that will make a huge difference and get a cheap light set up like this:

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Table-Photo-Studio-Light/dp/B001MYASTG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1417732784&sr=8-4&keywords=photo+studio+lights

Thanks for the giveaway parametrek! Thanks also for making such an excellent site!

Viltrox VL162-T, if that's allowed. If not, Rofis TR10. I was planning on modding the VL162-T to run off of batteries.

I use light stands. They are taller and have a smaller footprint than normal tripods.

​

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-7-Foot-Light-Stand/dp/B074VMTP68/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1535956111&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=light+stand&psc=1

​

These should work fine.

​

Also get a ball swivel. Like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/BESTEAM-Degree-Swivel-Tripod-Camcorder/dp/B01LWE9S9Z/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1535956180&sr=1-3&keywords=ball+swivel

​

Note that you don't have to use the max footprint that a tripod can do. You can make it as small as you feel comfortable with. Mine are at like 1 square foot. They are out of the way in the corner so that's fine for me.

Here is what I use, all great stuff.

Neewer Green Screen Backdrop,... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07K1SX1KR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Neewer Photo Studio 176 LED Ultra... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B06XDFGDCX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Sinvitron® 11 inch Magic... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B011769YUM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And to add some warm / white light as needed I have one of these clamped to my monitor to my left.
KEXIN Clip on Reading Lamp LED Desk Lamp - 5W Eye-Caring Table Light 3 Mode Dimmable Brightness Study Lamp Flexible Neck Clamp Night Light for Bedroom Student Boy Girl Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07S86R3FL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VaeHDb2PYGJS7

When shooting a show, it's going to save you a ton of time & work if you run 2 cameras (one on a semi wide shot of you and one as a close up to your prep or cooking). You might think that will ruin your budget but not if you go for a good "bang for the buck" setup. You can do this in any reasonable budget if you go with the following:

1080p audio & video for under $400 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKuGweaTrkY or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2KYWzKaqEk


As others are saying you need lighting, so you'll need at least two of these, which are portable (battery option) and perfect for indoors (weak for outdoors) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3W0KDS/

I would highly recommend the Yongnuo external speedlights! You'll also need wireless flash triggers to shoot with your flash off-camera (made for your camera brand) I personally like to shot through a white umbrella for close up portraits. You can find all of this equipment on Amazon :)


Yongnuo Flash: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_B3jizbSQH5JC7


White Umbrella: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003PEX8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_K8jizbZE9WMJ8


Flash Adapter for light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TYDBYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m9jizbNDJBSJ6


Light stand: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_79jizb8EEAZAT


I can recommend wirelessly flash triggers too! What brand is your camera?

The lights you linked are nice, but probably far more than you need for what you want to do. Do you already have a plain white wall with no extraneous light source? (windows, etc.) If so, what's in your picture is pretty simple. Basic 3 point lighting (key/fill/back) will do the trick with 2 extra dimmable lights for the background. Softboxes are nice but diffusion will work just fine. In recent years we've switched to color-shifting dimmable LED panels for pretty much everything. these lights are dirt cheap, have black barndoors, and color shift between warm/cool, tungsten/daylight, 3200k/5600k, whatever your preferred terminology is:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072QB3K9T/

We have 4 of them and they're fantastic. You probably don't even need the diffusion really but old habits die hard. If I were you I'd get 3 of them plus 2 for the background and you can reproduce that look exactly. (if you already have something you can use for fill or back you can prob get away with 4.)

I assume you already know 3 point lighting, but if not there are plenty of tutorials online.

EDIT - the lights I linked don't come with lights stands, but if you don't already have them here's some cheap ones: https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-7-Foot-Light-Stand/dp/B074VMTP68

Your solution is correct, cover the uncontrollable light and use a controllable one. Soft light will look best, but you need it to be bright enough so that your camera doesn’t have to compensate digitally (making the picture all grainy and distorted). A desk lamp will not have this power by itself, so either a bunch of desk lamps bounced off a white wall or shot through a layer of diffusion, or get like two LED video lights and bounce then off a white wall or bounce/shoot them though diffusion (photography umbrellas, diffusion from 5in1 reflector, softboxes, etc.)

http://www.amazon.ca/CowboyStudio-Table-Photo-Studio-Light/dp/B001MYASTG - The lights alone will help. There's a lot of great free resources for food photography. Start on YouTube!

I do a beauty channel so my lighting setup will be different than the look you are going for. I looked up Chael and it looks like he at least uses a ring light and a background light. You can get a lot of use out of a cheaper lighting system like this one. I’ll try to link you; also what camera are you planning to use? https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-Photography-Continuous-Equivalent-Softboxes/dp/B00KRN0SEI/ref=as_sl_pc_tf_til?tag=lorryhill-20&linkCode=w00&linkId=b7e44016ad0d59a26b439e43e9bce276&creativeASIN=B00KRN0SEI

I am trying to setup a very beginner's studio in my basement. I have a 25 feet by 20 feet space (no windows) that I plan to use. Would this equipment work for me?

1. Julius Studio 10 foot wide backdrop stand
   
2. [Cowboy Studio 10x12 feet grey muslin cloth] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VCW6G0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) (Or for a small studio, should I go black or white instead?)
   
3. Neewer 37" beehive octagon softbox (will this work with my Yongnuo 560 speedlight?)
   
4. Neewer s-type holder with bowens mount (Does this fit the softbox?)
   
5. Impact air-cushioned light stand 8' (And this will fit the holder?)
   
   Would love to hear opinions on these, and also if I am buying stuff that will work with each other.
   
   Thank you!

This one. It's not cheap but you can share it with your friends as the software seems to have unlimited installs.

You calibrate your colors and after that run flux. Flux will now take the calibrated color profile as base and then do its thing on top of it.

Pretty much! It’s an LED light wand from Amazon. Helps me see potholes + looks cool.

YONGNUO YN360 LED Video Light with Adjustable Color Temperature 3200K-5500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_C3mLDbX4TD92T

Get the biggest memory card you can afford. With Prime Day starting in a few hours, I have no doubt memory cards will eventually be featured. 128GB, Class 10, UHS-1 (or 3), V60 (or 90). Larger numbers are better.

If you really want to get into video, think about an inexpensive rig.

http://dslrvideoshooter.com/video-gear/rigs/

As a beginner, look at the $30 end. I have an ebay version of this. This one gets a lot of positive reviews and is only $20.

Video takes an insane amount of light. Since you are going to be in Colorado in the summer, shouldn't be an issue. Having said that, if you are going to be shooting in low light situations, you need a light. I have this one.

Finally, sound. If sound is important to what you are shooting, think about an external recorder. Internal mics are a huge compromise compared to even an inexpensive recorder can do. For $100 the Tascam DR-5 is more than adequate.


Ok, now having said that, the only thing you REALLY need to buy is the memory card. Everything else is optional. You can hand shoot with natural light and the internal mic and get great video. Its just a lot harder. Hard is not impossible, it just takes more practice.

Google around and you will find a ton of tutorials on how to shoot video with a DSLR. A few things that stuck in my mind:

Shoot 10-1. If you want a minute of video you need to shoot 10 minutes and edit it down.

Pan slowly. Go as slow as you can. Now go slower. Its amazing how "fast" any movement is when you are recording it.

Shoot low and away. Literally the opposite of what you want to shoot a still image. You need to get the camera away from your face because your breath is loud and will cause shake.

Shoot early and late. Start shooting BEFORE the event you want to get happens and keep shooting through that event. If you dont you wont have any edit room. Its not like you are buying tape/film so shoot as much as your sensor can handle.

Hope this helps! Im in Colorado Springs next week and you reminded me to pack my rig! Thanks!

1. Found this cheap reflector on Amazon, will it work fine for photographing models outside or should I rethink and buy something more expensive? http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-Inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW
   
   
2. I'm also looking at getting this lightstand: http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=pd_sim_p_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D4BMN9Z97PRH719JW48 , but looking at pictures of that lightstand, it doesn't seem like it can be rotated or used like this http://www.cowboystudio.com/v/vspfiles/photos/8051-reflector-C%20holding%20arm-2.jpg , is that true? If then, can you point me to another relatively cheap light stand that has that capability?
   
   
3. What are some more things that I should consider buying for photographing models outdoors?
   

“Neewer” is a Chinese company (sold on Amazon) offering many lighting, camera and audio products. For the price pretty amazing stuff. Here is a two light LED kit with stands worth looking at for $130. https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Packs-Dimmable-Bi-Color-Lighting/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=sr_1_4?crid=B9R3FRD06SBT&keywords=led+panel+light&qid=1563417067&s=gateway&sprefix=Led+panel%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-4

Easiest thing I can think of to accomplish that is to get some cheap photography softbox lights. Those things are bright af, they fill the whole room if you position them correctly and the light is very evenly white. Would that qualify?

Like these

All those items are pretty cheap. The reflector is 15 bucks on amazon. [The foam core is also about 15 bucks]
(http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/334961/Office-Depot-Brand-Sturdy-Board-Foam/) (and get a black version for your flag). And yes, foam board is used for bounce. It gives off a spread-out, diffused light that's good for a lot of situations.

Thanks for the giveaway, Parametrek! I'm slowly realizing I have a lot of lights, so I think the Viltrox light panel is a good choice. Also, I'm excited to see how your site is expanding.

"Gel" is indeed what you are looking for. (It's called gel because the filters used to be made from gelatin, but now it's a plasticy polyester film) What I would recommend is to find a theatrical supplies or lighting rental store by you and pick up a gel swatchbook so you can test the different colors on your actual lights. You may need to block the parts of the lights that the swatches don't cover, I'd suggest using aluminum foil and tape.

If you can't find a supplier near to you, you could order a swatchbook online: https://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495168846&sr=8-1&keywords=gel+swatchbook

In addition to the warmth, you might want to use a Rosco #119 or #114 which is a frost that will also help to soften the light.

What you're looking at is way more than you need to spend for a lighting environment, unless you need to shoot something really large.

Buy a cheap light tent. ($30) These can go up to 48x48", so they should handle most subjects you need to shoot. Ignore the included backgrounds - they wrinkle way too easily. Buy some poster board (18x24" or larger, $2-3 each) in various colors (white for isolation, yellow/blue/gray/burgundy for mood, etc.), and a little bit of masking tape. Then buy another speedlight. ($50-$500.)

Then:

1. Set up the light tent. (It'll pop open almost instantly.)
   
2. Position the poster board so that it has a nice, smooth curve to it, then use the masking tape to hold it there.
   
3. Set up your strobe(s) near your light tent. Don't just set them up next to it - pull down the diffusers and position them 6-12" from the tent to allow them to spread out the light throw.
   
   Here's a setup I used to shoot the results of a culinary class as a favor to a friend of mine who happened to be the instructor. Note that my setup had three strobes instead of two, but two strobes will still yield good results. Even one is manageable, but I'd recommend at least two.
   
   Here were the resulting shots:
   
   

• Stuffed chicken, potato wedges and grilled asparagus
  
• Chicken and waffles, with diced apple sauce and bacon
  
• Extreme macro of garnish from this dish of chicken over pasta with green beans
  
• Ice cream with chocolate flourish
  
  Minimal editing in Lightroom, but vignetting was added in post.

So now I have to revise my show and tell!

[This] (http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-30-Inch-Photo-Soft-Light/dp/B001TKCZVM/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2F0ZKIG7ZVCL8&coliid=I3TVRTC2WR2OW9) will be the next thing I save for to help me with my Etsy shop.

And then [THIS] (http://www.amazon.com/VivoBook-X202E-DH31T-11-6-Inch-Touch-Laptop/dp/B009F1I1C4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=BVG50JB9A21R&coliid=ITPP5FVUJ8WUZ), I really need to replace my work laptop that exploded and is only mildly working right now... Trying to write all of my reports on a laptop that doesn't work is frustrating!

Awesome giveaway, thanks a ton!

Light Panel

F+V makes a ring light for $200 or less. It's awesome! Runs on Sony batteries, not off the cameras hot shoe. Why is that cool? Cause you don't HAVE to to use it as a ring light. I use mine mostly as a little edge light, on a tripod, behind my subject. Genius!!!

http://amzn.com/B00AY0J4OY

What your looking for is something to cast soft-light on your workspace.

Get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-60cmx60cm-Softbox-Diffuser-Fluorescent/dp/B00LTNKKVG/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1511945500&sr=1-4&keywords=soft+light+lamp

Plug in one of these bulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/Bonlux-Daylight-Balanced-Spectrum-Photography/dp/B01EFK7XE6/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=8X7REXZN8369RAC069WP

And mount it on one of these stands:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Photography-Relfectors-Softboxes-Backgrounds/dp/B00K69A0QY/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5ZF30F2MDZM6ZJQBSG0Z

Have it cast light onto your workspace. You can probably find a smaller box and stand. You might even consider getting two of them for better lighting and eliminating shadows from your arm. The lighting will also help you as an artist becuase it casts white-light instead of a warm yellow, which can affect how you see colors at night.

Either you get a fixture that is not hanging low like spotlights or led's, or you take it off the ceiling altogether and come up with a different approach.

I mounted spotlights on top (not very bright tbh) have leds behind my TV and monitor (Self adhesive usb led strips), Philips living colors lamps around that give me mood light and when I need really bright light I have those battery powered lights on cheap stands (come handy everywhere, garden etc.)

Rather than having a lamp firing straight on the piece, put both of them on the side of the box. This will help you not have that shadow you have in pic 2. Also, I'd lower the angle a bit more with the lighting. You want the light to diffuse through the paper on the side of your light box. Another thing I'd do is put the paper on the inside of the sides of your box rather than the outside. By doing that, the white paper can scatter more light around the interior. As it stands, you have the cardboard trying to move light around the box. This also gives you more room inside the box to shoot because you don't have to worry about the box being in the shot since everything is white and you can get rid of the lines in post.

I had a homebuilt box as well, but ended up picking this up from Amazon. It comes with everything you need and those lights are awesome.

These are the lights I got. Six of them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01934RL0U

I'm pretty happy with the test we did today, night and day difference.

Nope

http://i.imgur.com/29GX8DM.jpg

this is the paper

lights are $10 clamp lights from lowes with 100w equivalent daylight cfls

probably don't need the extra floor lamp I was playing with

I had some speaker stands I clamped them to, you can spend like $40-$50 on amazon and get some mini lights on adjustable stands instead

I ordered some diffusers for the lights which haven't arrived yet to soften things and play with it

If you’re limited in space, my solution has been to mount an LED light on one of these stands, and clamp it to the back of my desk. Gives me a little more flexibility than mounting it on top of my monitor.
I use these lights, if youre interested.

Cowboy Studio's 30" - biggest size that would fit the little card table I have. I recommend getting the biggest you can fit. Dallas Moore has 48 inch one using a piece of plywood on 2 workhorses. When photographing larger objects, I have to take out the background in photoshop.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TKCZVM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I haven’t tried this, but perhaps a photography background stand with curtains or fabric that matches your venues draped around it or tied to the side?

Here’s a stand I found on Amazon

And you can add any curtains or fabric you like draped around to hide the legs. You can find black sequin curtains for pretty cheap

Get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458791907&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+flash

I've been using it for a few weeks now and love it. Wifi has latency issues, but this is instant RF, way better.

Good tips! Would you believe the entire thing was shot and edited on an iphone 6s?

Lighting is massively important when you aren't using a great camera, I bought this $40 softbox and it's made a world of difference. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DFP6M4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s01

Good idea about the slider, I'll look into it

It shouldn't be too difficult to find paper rolls that width. I've had good luck with large models using photographer's backdrop paper. It comes all the way up to 12' (a little over 3.5 meters).

Lumen ratings are often exaggerated, although I suppose it could be possible that a dual head light of the size of the one you linked could put out 14,000 lumens since the heads appear to be big enough to provide quite a bit of surface area for cooling.

I keep seeing the Home Depot Husky brand LED worklights stashed in various places at work. However, I've never seen anybody actually using one, and the maybe 3 times I've taken a moment to try one myself, it's been dead. So those don't seem like a very good option.

This might be different than what you're looking for, but I'll mention it because they're somewhat similar and get discussed here occasionally - Viltrox high CRI panels. Several users here have and like them for the natural looking light they produce. They're intended for photography and videography, and not as bright as halogen worklights, but with relatively low size and weight and minimal heat, you can position them safely much closer to whatever you're working on, and they can run both off of AC power or camcorder batteries.

There's a little version that puts out 1000 lumens, and a larger version, rated for 2500 lumens.

Definitely gels as others have pointed out. To start out with, you can get a sample pack like this, and then tape the desired gel to your strobe.

I believe the best one is the Sypder4Pro, they're $150 new. You might be able to buy a used one off eBay for around $100.

http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Pro-S4P100-Colorimeter-Calibration/dp/B006TF37H8/

Do you have an IPS monitor? If not, you should think of investing in one of those as well, especially if you're printing a lot.

Datacolor Spyder4Express:

http://www.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Express-S4X100-Display-Calibration/dp/B006TF3746/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342633794&sr=8-1&keywords=spyder4express

The pro is 50$ more but may be worth it as it does a better job (Slightly) and can configure multiple displays:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006TF37H8

Haha, thanks! Just a roll of white photo backdrop paper and a photo strobe with a 22" beauty dish and sock.

Thanks as always Para! :) Viltrox

R.I.P. gundeals

https://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-VL-162T-Brightness-Camcorder-3300K-5600K/dp/B073QLGK3R/

Good luck everyone!

For a lightbox, you can find decent quality cheap ones online so that it's almost not worth building it yourself -- I own this: http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Table-Photo-Studio-Light/dp/B001MYASTG and can recommend it highly. It's $39. It comes with multiple color backgrounds. It comes with two cheap yet acceptable lights -- but don't expect much from the lights, and assume you'll need to upgrade them with ANYTHING else, including just some basic table lamps.

(In general, Cowboy Studio makes good cheap stuff for this; http://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Photography-Lighting-Chromakey-Backgrounds/dp/B005FMKJ1I/ seems to be a similar product too)

whatever light you get make sure it's dimmable and has a diffuser attachment. Something like this. https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Dimmable-Panasonic-Samsung-Olympus/dp/B06XDFGDCX/ref=asc_df_B06XDFGDCX/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292974284305&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5136241249916722319&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000813&hvtargid=pla-347938700150&psc=1

Just looking around, tungsten kits seem a lot pricier. What’s the benefit of them over fluorescents, something like this?

I think lighting is important if you are planning to conduct interviews with lots of people as sometimes natural lighting may be quite risky. This link is for two softbox lights for £50. I haven't used these but I plan on buying them in the future and they are reasonably cheap and have good reviews
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Abeststudio-Continuous-Lighting-Photography-Softboxes/dp/B01F59NSX6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502643124&sr=8-5&keywords=softbox+lighting

At the very least I would get a 5 in 1 reflector kit just to get even lighting for interviews. Only £11
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Translucent-Collapsible-Reflector-Photography-Situation/dp/B002ZIVKAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502643168&sr=8-1&keywords=5in+one+reflector

Then I would get either the Zoom h1 and the Rode Videomic or just the Rode VideoMic Pro with the +20db setting on (both come to around £140). However you may be able to get away with your mic on a stand right above or below the interviewee. You'll have to do more researching as I don't know about microphones for interviews.

As for other things I think that would mainly be it.

Thank you!

>At any price? You'll pay any amount?

Within reason - if a lens that's perfect for this is a few hundred bucks, no problem. Close to a thousand, I'd think about it. More than that, I'm probably out. It's a business purchase for me, though, so easier to justify.

>Be more specific on the lights.

Ahh - let's talk about that :)

What I have now seems to 404 on Amazon's site, so they must not offer it anymore. However, I believe they are closest to these, which is two 700w lightboxes, each with an 85W CFL at 5500K.

I'm absolutely open to switching around the lighting setup.

Well, I've never done product stuff before and the lighting in your video was really good. I guess I would start with a kit like this and get a couple of diffusers for each to cut the harshness.

Neewer 2 Packs Dimmable Bi-Color 480 LED Video Light and Stand Lighting Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072Q42GXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tMjtDbDANAXMV

Any standard hotshoe radio trigger should work.
It won't have anything like TTL, HSS or rear curtain capabilities, but they're cheap and cheerful, and work.

this sort of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U

That would definitely work for food or any other product/still life photography. Only thing with the box is that you're limited to solid color backgrounds, unless that's what you want. With a reflector like this you can diffuse/reflect light and compose the background however you want.

Two of them:
First has one has multiple copies of commonly used ones (reddish, cyan, straw, CTO, CTB, etc) and they're a hair bigger (sized for speedlights)
http://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Strobist-Collection-1-5x3-25-Strobes/dp/B002SWIOOM/

This one is the original with one of everything they make (it was the original hack recommended on strobist).
http://www.amazon.com/Rosco-Lux-Small-Swatchbook/dp/B0002ER2YG/

I got some stick on velcro and use those to attach them to my speedlights.

This does a great job. I position my lens above it and shoot through the center.

Amazon.com : F&V Lighting R-300 LED Ring Light with L-Bracket : Led Household Light Bulbs : Camera & Photo
https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-R-300-Ring-Light-L-Bracket/dp/B00AY0J4OY

I'll send you a couple of photos this evening when I get back home of toned coins captured using it if you're interested. I use an opaque filter over it that clips on with magnets, and the light intensity of the 300 LEDs is infinitely adjustable.

Ring lights are fine for close ups and interview shots, but not what you're trying to do. You should invest in these. They are relatively cheap. They are RGB LEDs, and you can control from an app.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can use any standard Sony NP-F series battery, or these power supplies.

https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-American-Standard-Adapter-Switching/dp/B00OHHTTVS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=YONGNUO+power+supply&qid=1570647093&s=electronics&sr=1-3

It may sound like a large investment, but they are very cheap compared to professional lighting. You can buy one at a time, and add as you need to. They are very durable, I've had about 6 of them for several years, and they always come in clutch on a shoot.

Simple three point lighting is (Key, Fill, Rim.) The key and fill go to the left and right of the camera array, and the rim be high, behind the subject (when you look at the shot this light is creating a glowing rim around your subject.)

I noticed that keeping back lighting on my editing workstation helps keep my eyes adjusted by evening out the direction of light piercing my eye balls all day/night long. They’re adjustable colors too which helps a lot when I go into color correction/grading. I’m using a couple of these - YONGNUO YN360 LED

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I

https://smile.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella

https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY

https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS

https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-DSLR-Cameras/dp/B01I09WHLW

https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Since your monitors are not the same model, it's going to be very challenging to get them to look the same.

You should probably get a color calibrator if you actually want them to look the same.

If you can't afford that, there are cheaper calibration tools. Just look around. You can also, of course, just tweak the color settings manually until they look the same using Nvidia Control Panel / Catalyst Control Center. You can also try to just use the built in Windows color calibration, which I find very hard to be consistent with. What models are your screens? Somebody may have made color calibration profiles for them. They won't be perfectly tailored to your screens, but they should come pretty close.

Neewer LED panels are fantastic, no reason not to go with them. My preference is for these but there are of course others. IF you want to pay a HUGE premium and get a slightly slicker mount and interface, you can go with the Elgato light, but I just can't support their pricing for what they offer.

Yeah I bought a spyder4 pro off amazon. it's like 150 bucks but you can use it on tons of stuff.

http://smile.amazon.com/Datacolor-Spyder4Pro-S4P100-Colorimeter-Calibration/dp/B006TF37H8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407881831&sr=8-1&keywords=spyderpro4

I calibrate my:

MBP
Surface Pro 3,
3 desktop monitors.

It's been worth EVERY PENNY.

These aren't tubes but are one the most used pieces of lighting equipment in our production bag:

The Yongnuo Light Saber:

https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=yongnuo+light&qid=1564150579&s=gateway&sr=8-5

This sexy handheld mofo can dial in daylight, tungsten, RGB and everything in between. Its cheap and adds such a vibe. Once again not tubes but could be used in a similar fashion. Highly recommend.

Looking for an all white backdrop recommendation, already have a stand like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO

And am looking for something like this to attach to it:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ER2YQ/

Any other suggestions?

Is it an actual light or a reflector?

To me it looks like one of those reflector photographs and movie maker uses.

Edit: like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Translucent-Collapsible-Reflector-Photography-Situation/dp/B002ZIVKAE

I mostly rely on natural light, but I occasionally use a couple smallish LEDs.

I've seen a lot of people lately recommend picking up a couple of these lights. I've been meaning to pick one up, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

Thank you!

these are the lights very versatile !!!

https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN360-Adjustable-Temperature-3200K-5500K/dp/B01D2X4A8Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=younguo+led&qid=1557668678&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Your best bet is just doing it yourself using you iPhone and these few items from Amazon. It'll cost you about $100 for these 3 items, but you'll never have to pay someone to do it for you, so its worth it.

https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Studio-Photography-Backdrop-Background/dp/B015YHXHWQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1526082839&sr=1-3&keywords=white+photo+backdrop

https://www.amazon.com/Julius-Studio-Background-Backdrop-Photography/dp/B072BCNRTY/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072BCNRTY&pd_rd_r=3P35Q5G0Z2FWQG3Q4TAK&pd_rd_w=ZQN9c&pd_rd_wg=ReAuO&psc=1&refRID=3P35Q5G0Z2FWQG3Q4TAK

https://www.amazon.com/Fancierstudio-DK2-Professional-Photography-continuous/dp/B004TSCARK/ref=sr_1_7?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1526082936&sr=1-7&keywords=studio+lighting

Softboxes or umbrellas for food photography?

I have a social media/food instagram account that I created as part of a social media course. I create my own content, which makes the photo quality very important. I have a professional camera and received a recommendation for a tripod here—which I bought.

But I still find that the lighting is the most important thing. I created some good photos by creating very shoddy softboxes with desk lamps and some see-through/sheer fabric, but these broke recently; so I'm thinking of upgrading.

However, I've come across two different things: umbrellas and softboxes. I don't know which to get. What's your recommendation?

https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Professional-Photography-Lighting-Portraits/dp/B017D7W57S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538619759&sr=8-3&keywords=product+photography+light

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003WLY24O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1_1_1?smid=AYYB6OSI63NRK&psc=1

Thank you! It was a lot of trial and error. It's this exact one from amazon. I got it about two weeks ago and really like it. Neewer 700W Professional... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017D7W57S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use a single studio lamp for mine, I just don't have much room for another one. You could also try a neewer lamp which I hear are pretty good especially if you lack the room for two studio lamps.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B06XDFGDCX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518710416&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=neewer+light&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2BDoViD4wL&ref=plSrch

Here are some options.

Cheap godox flash

godox flash that has TTL which is like auto mode for a flash just get the version for your camera brand (Sony, Nikon, canon)

Godox transmitter, again, get the one for your camera. There’s also the x1t for about $20 less.

lightstand

S bracket for holding speedlight

softbox. There’s lots of options for softboxes out there...

For a cheaper option than a softbox use an umbrella

These light stands are what I use (pack of 2): https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Aluminum-7-Foot-Light-Stand/dp/B074VMTP68/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=light+stands&qid=1563245217&s=gateway&sr=8-4

And you'll want these for the stands as well (pack of 2): https://www.amazon.com/UTEBIT-Removable-Lightweight-Ballhead-Camcorder/dp/B07KF7TTZ1/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=light+stand+adapter&qid=1563245324&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I am considering buying a light meter (specifically this one). Would I need to purchase a sync cable to connect my flash and light meter? If so would a cable like this work with this trigger system?

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Dimmable-Professional-Photography-3200-5600K/dp/B01934RL0U?ref_=ast_slp_dp

​

With 4 NP-F970 Batteries: https://www.amazon.com/Powerextra-Replacement-Compatible-DCR-VX2100-HVR-HD1000U/dp/B01N3TWBXI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3AVTU7RI3GKN2&keywords=np+f970+battery&qid=1574805414&s=electronics&sprefix=np+f%2Celectronics%2C227&sr=1-3

​

Some gels: (cut to size) https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-12-Inches-Transparent-Correction-Different/dp/B01CCIKB5Q/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=neewer+gels&qid=1574805440&s=electronics&sr=1-1

​

and two light stands and you're in business.

​

I've been using these for a long time and always do the trick.

Look up the film guys (thefilmguys.net) and see what that cinematography looks like. Only those lights and nothing else.

Angle from where the picture is taken might have an influence, but I don't think that it matters all that much.

Try looking at the original picture and compare it to the picture shown on the wall screen. Look at the colour of the floor. There is a distinct difference even though if you look at the original picture shown on only one screen there is no such thing.

I don't know how the calibration is done when it is turned on, and I can't see how you can do a proper calibration without an external measuring device to measure what colour each screen is actually producing. Basically measuring the colour which is produced and comparing it against the colour which you are trying to produce.

I only know about the consumer facing products used for this. The tool used is called a colorimeter.

Link to one such device.