Reddit mentions: The best camera remote shutter release

The most important accessory that you can get for any mirrorless camera is a couple of extra batteries. The X100T is supposed to have better battery life than previous cameras in the series, but it's still a good idea to have at least a back-up battery -- maybe more, especially if travelling.

I have these: http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-Charger-Fujifilm/dp/B005CRHM5C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507057&sr=8-1&keywords=wasabi+power+x100s (Not sure if X100T uses the same battery as my X100s).

Some things that are ergonomically helpful are add-on grips, such as the lensmate: http://www.amazon.com/Fujifilm-X100S-Thumb-Lensmate-Silver/dp/B00E259GCC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507115&sr=8-1&keywords=thumbs+up+x100s , though I use a knock-off: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Thumbs-TU-100S-Camera-Sliver/dp/B00C9UROH6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507115&sr=8-5&keywords=thumbs+up+x100s , and it works fine. Another ergonomics helper is a soft shutter release button (the shutter button on the camera is an old-school threaded one), there are tons of these on the market, again I went with a knock-off ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JCJO5QU/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1411507202&sr=1&keywords=soft+shutter+release ) and it's fine.

As far as the hood / filter-adapter, I would recommend buying this. I don't really care for the lens hood (though it does cut flare) but instead use the filter adapter and a B+W MRC UV filter. I've never used UV filters on digital before, and still don't on my interchangeable-lens cameras, but being that this is a fixed lens camera and I'm pretty rough on it, I just use the filter and toss it in bags without a lens cap or anything and it's just fine.

A different strap may be good, it's all personal preference. I use a leica non-slip strap and it's great.

Here is a nice neoprene case that will snugly fit the X100s for carry inside some kind of other bag: http://www.amazon.com/OP-TECH-USA-Digital-D-Compact/dp/B0001TSSM2/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411507453&sr=1-2&keywords=op+tech+compact

Fuji makes wide/tele converter lenses for 28mm and 50mm equivilent perspectives. They are supposedly very good but I haven't used them.


Other than that, it's all in what you want to shoot. filters and tripods might be nice for landscape shooters, lighting gear is nice for portrait shooters. Just like any other camera, really.


If you're new to photography, I would recommend picking up some books -- start with Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson and The Photographer's Eye by Michael Freeman. A book about the X100T specifically would be helpful too -- they are sure to come out soon.

I'll do my best. I don't know many technical terms, and I'll likely be editing this as I remember more things, so beware. Also I'm including solutions to a lot of mistakes I made, so this is long:

Setup:

• Before you go, take a picture of a distant object (building, tree...whatever), and make a mental note about where the focus ring on your camera should be. For my 50mm lens, I need to have the focus ring rotated nearly all the way to the left. This will come in handy later. (http://multimedia.journalism.berkeley.edu/media/upload/tutorials/stillcams/rebel_lens.jpg)
  
  
• Download Stellarium (http://www.stellarium.org/) and check to see what the sky will look like when/where you plan your shoot. Also make sure you understand which direction the stars will be drifting in. In N. California, at 9:30 at night, on Sept 18th, facing NE, Andromeda drifted upward and slightly to the left.
  
  
• Next, you'll need a dark area. Use a light pollution map like http://darksitefinder.com/maps/unitedstates-15color.html. I live near San Francisco, so I had to drive 90 miles to get to an area that was dark enough for decent pictures ("green" on the light maps).
  
  
• Make a list of what you need to be sure about: Camera, set to RAW, charged battery, memory card, tripod, tripod head...
  
  Taking pics:
  
  
• I setup my camera and tripod, and aim it towards the first star I see on my screen. However, if your camera isn't focused at least a little, the stars will be so blurry you can't find them. So it helps to know roughly where your focus needs to be (that's why we made that mental note about it earlier). Once you've found a star, adjust your focus as necessary and get it as pin-point sharp as you can.
  
  
• Helpful: An android tablet or laptop. There are free DSLR apps that will give you a live view from your camera, instead of relying on your camera's tiny screen. REALLY helps with focusing and reviewing your images. You can often adjust the camera settings from them too.
  
  
• Now that I'm setup and focused it's time to find Andromeda, so I aim my camera towards it. Problem: I don't know if I'm aimed directly at it, so I take a long exposure at a high ISO. This makes the galaxy much more obvious, so I can find it when I review my picture.
  
  
• Because the earth rotates, the stars drift. Remember when we checked Stellarium, Andromeda was drifting upwards and slightly to the left. I try to aim the galaxy towards the bottom of my frame so as the galaxy moves across the sky, it moves from the bottom of my frame to the top and I don't constantly have to re-adjust my camera.
  
  
• For the 50mm 1.8 lens (http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-Standard-AutoFocus-Lens/dp/B00005K47X/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411340725&sr=1-2&keywords=canon+50mm+1.8+lens): Once you've got your aim and focus ready, check that you're taking pictures in RAW, set your exposure to 6 seconds, set your ISO to 1600. Longer lenses will need more light, and offer you shorter exposure times, but you'll get a larger view of the object.
  
  
• I use a remote trigger, lock it in the "take pictures" position, and let the camera fire for 10-15 minutes. Then I check the most recent picture and make sure the galaxy is still in the frame. If it's not near the top of the frame, I keep going for a bit longer until the galaxy starts to get close to the opposite edge of the frame. (Remote: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KDQPWM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
  
  
• If you need more pictures, re-adjust the camera and keep going. I shoot until I collect at least 500 shots.
  
  
• Now that you have your pictures, you'll need dark frames. We'll use these later to correct errors the camera makes. Put the lens cap on, and with exactly the same exposure time, and the same ISO, take at least 20-30 shots. Don't wait too long, these frames work best if the camera's sensor is still hot from the previous shoots.
  
  
• Now you need bias frames. Again, we'll use these to correct camera errors. Keep the lens cap on, and set your exposure time to the fastest your camera offers. For my T3i, that's 1/4000th of a second. Take 20-30 shots.
  
  Processing:
  
  
• Helpful: When I load my pictures onto the computer, I make 3 folders "Light" "Dark" "Bias". Sometimes I'll find I have high ISO, high exposure "looking for the galaxy" pictures mixed in with my regular pictures. I find the easiest way to identify them is to view my pictures in Windows Explorer and select View - Details. This lists the pictures along with the date they were taken, file size, etc. I add Exposure Time, Focal Length, and ISO to the detail columns and now I can see exactly which pictures are throwaways. I put the pictures of the galaxy in the Light folder, Darks in the Dark folder, and Bias in the Bias folder.
  
  
• Use Deep Sky Stacker, load your Light Frames, and click "Check All". Then load your dark frames, then your bias. These will check automatically. Then click Register Pictures.
  
  
• Under Stacking Parameters, I use Mosaic Mode under "Result" and Kappa Sigma Clipping for the Light, Dark, and Bias frames. Click OK
  
  
• Click Recommended Settings and click any link that's blue. This will automatically pick the best setting for you. Click OK and start stacking! This should take at least a couple hours from start to finish.
  
  
• You'll end up with a picture of nearly NOTHING! But now when you brighten it up the stars and galaxy will emerge and you'll end up with FAR less noise. Deep Sky Stacker used those dark and bias frames to identify what in your pictures is just useless noise, and eliminated it. Deep Sky Stacker also has a very crude adjustment tool to brighten images, but you can use Gimp, Photoshop, Lightroom, or another image editor to really play with the brightness, levels, and curves to get the best image possible.
  
  
• Helpful: If DSS goes through the whole process, and ends in an error, look through your pictures. Make sure the darks are all dark, the lights are all light, and delete frames that look funky (airplane flying through them or something). Maybe try stacking just the first 50, or the first 10...play around with it until you find out what's wrong.
  
  Did I leave anything out? Any questions?
  
  VERY HELPFUL VIDEO: http://youtu.be/e0JSTF8SGi4

Bare minimum, you'll need some extension tubes. Kenko's are always my top recommendation, but Vello's are almost as good for a much lower price. Both have electrical contacts for autofocus and work identically. Extension tubes are just empty barrels, so image quality will not be affected.

Extension tube magnification depends on the focal length of the lens being used. Since both of your lenses are 50mm, an FD to EF adapter will not give you ay benefit over using your EF lens.

If you're interested in buying a macro lens, it's actually quite difficult to go wrong, as almost all EF macro lenses are very good. Having said that, extension tubes are more than enough to get started with macro, so no need to jump the gun.

Macro lens recommendations:

• Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM - Very solid lens for a very good price. Image quality is on par with the L macro lens.
  
• Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM - Weatherproof and has IS. If you need any of these features, take the L over the regular canon macro. If not, the regular canon macro will serve just as well.
  
  Do not get:
  
  
• Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro Lens - requires an adapter to get 1:1 photos.
  
• Zeiss 50mm f/2.0 Makro-Planar ZE Macro Lens - A very expensive lens that only does 2:1 and has no autofocus. Good image quality but lacking for a macro lens.
  
• Canon MP-E 65mm f/2.8 1-5x Macro - A special purpose lens that requires special equipment to use. Definitely not for beginners.
  
  Since higher magnifications require more light, a flash is highly recommended. Any flash will do, but you'll want to be able to trigger it when it's not on the camera. Something like a Yongnuo RF-603 is a very cheap way to do that.
  
  You'll also want some modifiers for your flash. You can buy some (diffusers, snoots, etc.) or make your own.
  
  The most important thing, I feel, is a good guide for starting in macro. Macrophotography by LordV is pretty much the holy grail, and has a few tips on building your own modifier, if that's something you're into.
  
  

Hey, I have the same camera and intend on doing the same thing, only on Tuesday (8/14) night. I'll miss peak by one night... :/

I've never shot a meteor shower, though.

Anyway, I use the camera more with my refractor, but I do wide-angle shots sometimes, including one of the ISS I keep meaning to post (and hope to remember to do when I get home today). Here's things I've learned in my short time in astrophotography; remember, this is general stuff, as I've never shot a meteor shower:

• I put the lens in manual focus, find a decently bright star, turn on live-view, zoom in on the screen all the way, and focus. It's still kind of tricky, but it gets better with practice.
  
• While it's a nice lens, the kit lens has a terrible little focus ring. To keep it in focus, I use gaffer tape. I keep a couple feet of this stuff rolled up around a toothpick in my camera bag. It's awesome. It's like duct tape, but won't leave a residue on the camera. Don't use it on or near the optics, and take it off before putting the camera away. A tiny piece will do to hold the focus ring in place (1/2" square or less).
  
• I trust you have a tripod; a good solid tripod is a must.
  
• I think the answer for which ISO setting is this: Set it as high as you need it to get the shot, but as low as you can to avoid noise. Sorry for the vague answer, but it can change depending on what other settings you use. I like to start at 800 and go up or down.
  
• Your exposure length should give you a histogram peak somewhere in the middle. The big picture is: you don't want your histogram too close to either the left or right sides. To do that, you'll adjust exposure length, ISO, or aperture.
  
• I've heard people say to stop the aperture down a little to make sharper stars. It's a balance between that and actually capturing the stars as points, unless you want star trails... For a meteor shower, star trails might work. (I keep mine wide open, but I do more shooting with my telescope, not a lens.)
  
• Using a remote of some kind is a good idea to keep the camera stable while controlling exposure. There's also a setting to add a delay of 2 seconds before taking the exposure.
  
• There's also a thing called "the hat trick", where you cover the lens with a hat (or something), open the shutter, give the camera a second or two to stop shaking, then move your hat (starting the real exposure). Reverse to stop the exposure. I haven't done it, but it sounds reasonable.
  
• Take dark frames to eliminate noise, or use the built-in high-ISO noise reduction. This person said why better than I can.
  
• There's also a setting in the menus to dim the display. It'll keep from blinding you too much while using live view at night.
  
• I stick with RAW. It's not lossy. I like jpeg for everything else, because I'm not a pro. But for AP, I stick with RAW, since there are much fewer photons involved.
  
  All right, I feel like I'm missing some things. It's late, I'm working the night shift, and I don't have my notes with me. Also, I might be rambling. I really like the D5100, though, and I feel like there's a lot of tricks to learn. That's half the fun, though, right? :D

Thanks! Like connorirw said, a tripod and long shutter speed is a necessity. That image in particular was taken over a 4 hour period to track the star movement. It's possible to get an effect like this with an exposure close to that length in bulb mode, but I find it's better to make a composite with several images stacked. This reduces noise and allows for the removal of any bad frames(like planes flying through the shot, etc).

So I focused on the stars and used f3.5, ISO 500, with 30sec exposures being taken over and over for the 4 hours. There are modes on most(all?) DSLRs for continuous shooting, but I used an intervalometer to set it up. At Sunrise I took another image with the lake in focus at a narrower aperture to add after creating the startrails.

Then I began the processing. I used an application called Starstax to create the composite image, which I exported to photoshop to blend the foreground in. I set the foreground layer mode to lighten and played around with a gradient filter to ensure the trails stayed bright.
This was my first attempt blending a brighter foreground layer with startrails in this way. It was trickier than I initially thought, and I'm not completely happy with the result. I typically light paint the specific foreground subject I want to focus on, which makes the editing much easier.

Sorry for the long post, hope it helped.

The best system for you is probably Nikon DSLRs. They have the best low light performance for your money in the DSLR world, and being a camera manufacturer pretty much exclusively, they have looooots of lenses.

My recommendation:

Refurb D7000 - $519. 1/320 flash sync speed, plenty good in low light, pro ergonomics, works with nikon's newer and older lenses.

Lens: 50mm f1.8G. You said portraits only, so here is your best bang for your buck lens for that. $215.

Lighting: Check out the strobist 101 lighting kit. $100ish.

Flash: YN 565 + radio triggers. $150ish.

With a memory card and whatnot, that comes to around $1000 and you have a great portrait setup. But, you're limited to one focal length (albeit a very useful one). Here are some tips if you wanna push it into the $1000-2000 range:


Nikon 80-200 f2.8D - crazy bang for your buck.

Sigma 18-35 f1.8 - the best wide/normal zoom lens for aps-c cameras. The quality out of it is nothing short of astounding.

85mm f1.8G. You want shallow depth of field? You've got it.

I've played with an SB800 and an SB900 with the camera (D7100) in commander mode. They work fine in a room where the light will reflect a bit, and they're ok behind white umbrellas, but I wouldn't push the issue much further than that.

For a mid-level solution, check out [These Guys.]
(http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4) They work on RF so you don't have to rely on line-of-sight. They're also pretty cheap, and as an added bonus can work as a wireless shutter release. I'm waiting to get paid, and then I'm gonna order a pair of them to play with, eventually I'd like 2 pair (you need 3 to trigger 2 flash heads, and one extra never hurt anyone.) But I want to make sure they're going to work properly first. The only downside to these is that they don't do TTL, so you have to dial the flash power in manually, which doesn't matter to most people anyway.

> Does the camera body have a built in wireless trigger that SB-600-700-800-910 respond to?

Yes, kind of. The main on the camera does a few special preflashes that the other ones can pick up. It's kind of like if I used a flashlight to send you a message in morse code -- except they do it much, much faster.

> Or do I have to mount a flash on the camera shoe, and use a wireless transmitter built into that flash to trigger a wireless receiver in another flash?

That's an option but not necessary on the newest models. However, I still often opt to buy cheap radio triggers because it's nice not having to deal with line of sight.

> Is the Nikon wireless system in SB-XXX capable with regards to range, i.e. 100meter range or more,

No, I wouldn't say so. Maybe in a pitch black environment. The range is very dependent on how bright it is since in a bright environment the bursts of light from your camera are harder to "see."

> and is it line of sight limited, or should I buy the $39 wireless radio trigger kits from eBay?

It is line of sight limited.. kind of. In a dark place if it bounces off a wall it will still trigger your flashes. It's hit or miss and depends, again, how much ambient light there is.

> Or does Nikon sell a wireless trigger kit/CLS that takes better advantage of integrated features (i-TTL via wireless triggers)?

Nikon might, but in this case the most common thing would be to buy something like Pocket Wizards. However then you're shelling out around $150-250 per transceiver which is over $300 just for one camera/flash pair. You can easily drop a thousand dollars just getting your flashes to be wireless.. which really sucks.

> What do I miss out on with cheap eBay remote flashes?

They have very long ranges and are quite reliable so you mostly only miss out on the TTL aspect. If you're fine with setting flashes manually they're very useful. I have a set of RF-602's by Yongnuo (cheap Chinese) but you'd now want to purchase the updated RF-603. They will probably be ever so slightly less reliable than a pocket wizard set, but by less reliable I mean you may miss one shot every 200-500 photos.

Yeah sure. I used the kit lens for my EOS 1100D (17-55mm), 30 second exposures iirc, 35 seconds interval (I tried 30s interval but because the exposure was 30s I had to allow time to save the images to the storage).

I live on the edge of a small town so it wasn't necessary to go out to the middle of nowhere to avoid light pollution, although I suspect it would yield better results to do so. I simply set up my camera pointing out through an open skylight and connected it to my laptop on which I have installed camera control software which has options for timelapse.

The use of a laptop was purely personally choice though, it's honestly easier to use something like this.

I'd recommend one of these suckas, especially if you think she might combine cooking & taking photos. Photography is all about light, and one of these speedlites is an awesome and affordable way to get a better understanding of that. Read the reviews to get an idea of how kickass these things can be.

Alternatively, I learned photography by taking pics of the night sky. It was the most interesting thing to me and is what drove me to learn more about taking photos. I bought one of these, which allowed me to take pics with crazy long shutters on my T2i and also do cool stuff with star trails. I remember being so damn pumped when I took that photo with my T2i, the stock lens and a $10 shutter release.

Coupling the release with the tripod is a nice combo. The flash is great for indoor stuff.

If you're feeling SUPER crazy, consider the famous "nifty fifty." My biggest frustration with the kit lens when I had my T2i was that it was practically useless handheld in low light, and it was hard to achieve any shallow depth of field, which are two pretty big draws to DSLR photography. The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II changed that all.

It can be had for under $100 used on Amazon, but I'd check your local Craigslist. Everyone Canon shooter has owned this lens at one point, and I've seen them for as low as $50 on NYC CL.

I would go for the 50mm lens and a tripod, throw in the shutter release and flash if you're feeling super generous. It would set her up for a very long time if she is serious about photography. If all the stars align, you could probably get the lens + tripod + shutter release + flash for under $150 but it's not very likely.

1. Depends on how much work you want to do and how wide your scene's dynamic range is. I started shooting raw and reduced my need for bracketing significantly, but there is a definite use for those kinds of shots; I just haven't been chasing them too hard.
   
   
2. It'll take practice and experience for sure. The even more effective solution is to support your exposure work with software in post to really smooth out the subtle exposure differences between shots. Have you heard of http://lrtimelapse.com? Liok around for some tutorial videos on how it works. As far as intervalometers go, this is a pretty cheap and wireless solution that might be worth playing with (though you'll want to triple check that it's compatible with your rig). The problem is that it still might be hard to meter your scene without touching your camera, and the very subtle changes in light and exposure settings are tricky to balance.

I went down a deep Nikon rabbit hole asking this same question and here's where I landed:

First: the camera will shut off every 30 minutes like /u/bgpawesome said. This is sort of a sensor issue but it's equally (if not more) a tax issue. I found one workaround for using your Nikon longer than 30 minutes and it comes down to recording. I have a D5600 so I'm not sure if all of this will transfer to the D5300 but if you start recording on your Nikon then stop it it resets the shut off timer. I bought a cheap remote shutter release cord and in the settings changed the remote settings from "release shutter" to "record video". It works but sometimes it tries to focus so you might want to set it to manual focus.

Second: The Elgtao is incredibly limiting on Mac. You have to use Elgato's software and I found it lacking so I went with the Black Magic Ultra Studio Mini Recorder. In fact, I bought two (one for my DSLR/GoPro and one for my Xbox One or a second camera). Now I can use OBS which I found way more customizable than Elgato.

Third: To be perfectly honest, after a month of research and trial and error, I use a Logictech c920 for my "main" camera. If I'm doing a music performance or something that I want to look nicer I use the Nikon but for every day streaming the c920 has been more than adequate.

Hope this helps. Happy to answer anymore questions if you have them.

I don't know if it has an intervalomter function built in (I'm a Canon guy), but just get one of these and take all of five minutes to read the manual. Super easy to use. Then take all of your images and throw 'em in to your favorite video editing software and go to town. Fairly simple, honestly.

Recently bought a few knick knacks for mine.

• ICE 67mm ND1000 Filter Neutral Density ND 1000 67 10 Stop Optical Glass, great price and has a lot of great reviews.
  
  
• Manfrotto MTPIXIEVO-BK PIXI EVO 2 Section Mini Tripod, needed a little tripod I could carry with me everywhere.
  
  
• Foto&Tech IR Wireless Remote Control for Sony Alpha Cameras, useful for all occasions.
  
  
• B+W 67mm CLEAR UV HAZE MRC (010M), just a little extra protection when the weather is bad. Great quality brass ring.
  
  
• 49 mm - 67 mm Filter Adapter Step-Up, so I can use the filters on my 55-210mm.
  
  
• Case Logic SLRC-203, needed a new bag that could fit everything, including big tripod and found this.
  

Can you connect some kind of remote to the camera? The connector looks something like a headphone jack, but it would probably be easiest to just search for name_of_camera remote on amazon - it should look similar to this and would allow you to expose however long you wish, for a set length or in an interval.

Although just having a longer exposure isn't actually as helpful as you might think - the trails just start overlapping (this is 92s) and at some point the pictures just kind of all look the same - having control of exactly when the exposure starts and ends is very nice.

https://www.amazon.com/SHOOT-Shutter-Release-Digital-Cameras/dp/B00MCA191K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1472691250&sr=8-2&keywords=nikon+d3300+shutter+release+remote

It doesn't need to be expensive. The cheaper the better haha. The best thing about DSLRs is that it is cheap to screw up. Take ton's of shots. Take shots you know won't work and learn from them in post. I would recommend the adobe creative cloud lightroom/photoshop subscription if you haven't already. It's $9.99 a month for both products and you can learn how to recover a lot of the raw files.

I'm in desperate need of a remote control for my camera since I mostly use it for fashion shoots and filming. It would make everything go so smoothly if I didn't have to run back and forth from my camera to my backdrop :P

Thanks so much for the contest!

P.S. Your photos are gorgeous! I love the portraits that you do :)

My week is crazy. At work we have a production roll out that effects all of our customers. What this means is all this week up till Thursday will be working late making sure everything is ready to go for the roll out. On Thursday, I have to come in and work a normal 8-5 shift, go home and decompress for about an hour, then get back on my computer and work with everyone to get the roll out done. This typically goes until 12-2am in the morning. Friday, I have to come in at my normal time and hope we didn't break anything so we don't have a ton of calls to support. Fun times. :)

catdog
Item

I was very happy with my a6000 for landscapes and astrophotography. I don't think the newer models would be worth the cost unless you want much better action/video. I'd recommend the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm/2.0 for wide shots sample.

You will need some kind of wireless remote, I recommend this style for $10.

I personally love it, especially the design. It's almost completely metal so it's fairly heavy. There are some neat features, like a switch which lets you crank the shutter lever whilst not advancing the film for double exposures etc. Aperture and shutter priority (only works with camera supported lenses) allow for automatic exposure based on chosen aperture/shutter and the metering of the scene of course. I'm not a big fan of the empty screw shutter button so I recommend buying a screw on button like these: https://www.amazon.com/Shutter-Release-Fujifilm-Concave-Surface/dp/B01M2COLAQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503680051&sr=8-3&keywords=shutter+button :) There is stop down metering mode which allows you to use non native lenses and still have the camera choose the shutter automatically. If you have any more questions just ask.

You should check out these: http://amzn.com/B004YW79F4

Or alternatively just stick a piece of white card, like a business card in front of the on camera flash to bounce the light away from the subject. Also turn down the power of the flash manually. Doing both of these will prevent the on camera flash affecting the exposure, but will allow the slaves to pick up the flash. No delay is needed.

I used the same technique before I bought the triggers listed above, while they are manual control only they are a great starter trigger.

Hope that helps.

(First time poster long time lurker, made account to answer your query!)

Well, depending on his interest: starscapes vs telezoom celestial bodies, I would buy him a good prime lens (50mm or 85mm) that is used. Look for f/1.8 or less (the 1.8 is way more affordable). The other great thing about these two lenses are they're very versatile. He can use them just about anywhere that he goes and they are excellent in low light situations. He will definitely, more so than the lens, need a tripod. You cannot get a good shot without something to hold the camera still.

He'll need a good remote release cord so that he'll be able to keep the shutter open and get that great shot.

Again, I don't know much about the telescoping zoom lenses but this one happens to be in your price range. You could do this and the remote release but he'll still need a tripod of some kind. Do you know if he has one?

Oh man, that's a nice camera! You're going to have tons of fun with that.

You do probably want to use the bulb setting, although you don't have to. I think the a6000 will do up to a 30" exposure without a remote. I use this timer because it lets you totally customize and automate your picture-taking. For example, you can do a nighttime time-lapse movie by taking, say, a 30 second exposure every 2 minutes for 6 hours, and you can program that all into the remote so that it will work while you sleep. Definitely a worthwhile investment if you want to get into any kind of photography.

Here are some examples of a light painting experiment we did in my dining room http://imgur.com/a/vN4ko

I use a Canon but here's my "for dummies"/quickstart guide to light painting:

1. Set camera to M
   
   
2. Set exposure to the longest possible (on my camera it's 30 seconds)*
   
   
3. Set aperture. In the examples we used f/22. Experiment and see if you like the outcome. Now that I think about it. We had some problems with making that much light to show up. Something like f/8 would've been nicer to work with
   
   
4. Wear dark clothing, turn off all the lights
   
   
5. Hit the shutter then stand in front of the lens.
   
   
6. Paint! We used a cell phone with a flashlight app. Get creative. Sparklers, fire, LEDs, flashes, flash lights or anything that lights up can be used to paint
   
   
   
   TIP: if you're working alone, set the self timer to 2 seconds so that you have time to move in front of the lens before the exposure starts*
   
   *TIP: if you set the shutter speed to BULB then it will keep it open for as long as the shutter button is held down. Most remote-shutter releases have a LOCK or HOLD position that is very useful. You can buy a remote for under $10 on amazon. (You don't need to go name brand for this, it's just a button)
   
   TIP If you want to use BULB mode but down have a remote, you can
   "hack" it by using tape to keep the button down*

I think the only way to get instantaneous remote shutter fire is to get a wired remote. Luckily, they are cheap, and really good for fireworks.

Also, you can get a wired intervalometer that will also do manual shutter triggering and a lot more. I have this one, and it works great for time lapses and fireworks.

I also have this one - it just trips the shutter and is really cheap. Less bulky and good for fireworks.

I'm going to Hong Kong on the 18-26th, then Taipei from the 26-30th! I am doing some major soul-searching and giving a break from my daily routine :) Lots of hiking and pictures! Might look into a tripod + this for some awesome selfies!

I just got this simple one off of amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458139992&sr=8-1&keywords=a6000+remote

It's their #1 best seller and has great reviews. It's cheap and does exactly what I need it to do.

Yeah it was. I think it turned out well alright, though if I had enough equipment I would have set up a t2i or t3i and plugged in an intervalometer. I did a timelapse of it with my Canon 7D while I was in Chicago on youtube and can be seen here. http://youtu.be/uCNi22wqjqg.

I like this option because you have higher ppi to make a better quality image and more control with the image style.

• Gorillapod- really cool and fun to use (My uncle's friend actually owns the company!)
  
• A prime lens is definitively a good idea.
  
• You probably don't need to get a fancy remote shutter, a simple one will do (I use a 10 dollar one that I bought a few years back)
  
• you can never have too much memory!
  
  EDIT- I failed at bulleting

I use this intervalometer with my D3200, it works pretty well. I can use it either as a remote shutter release (just press the button), or I can set it up as if I were doing a time lapse to take a series of photos without having to press the button each time. If you have the gear for it, you can also use it to take very long exposures - an equatorial mount with tracking for AP, or something like a stack of ND filters for daytime photography. You'd just set the camera on bulb mode, and set the intervalometer for something like a five minute exposure (30s is the longest my camera can do alone).

I had that same issue! I bought a cheap remote on Amazon and it is amazing, fixed all of the issues, and honestly, I prefer it. It’s wireless and has a physical shutter button instead of a display with no feedback, plus it doesn’t make any changes to your settings because it basically acts like a normal trigger

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GY5KWA

>I own a Cannon Powershot G12? Will that camera suite my needs?

You will need a remote shutter release, as well as a tripod if you don't already have one.

Some software is more webcam oriented, you may want to get something that works with pics you download to your pc rather than requiring an active connection to the computer.
This is free.

This should be a better option for 4 triggers. You might need to check D3300's compatibility with these triggers. But I don't see why they wouldn't work for you. I got a D3100 and these work perfect on it.

Watch the video review, it is worth it.

I have a Nikon D7000, and I just use a little wired shutter release that duplicates the two-stage shutter button on the camera exactly, with the added feature of locking down to trigger the "bulb" mode for as long as I want.

The Cannon Magic Lantern solution is one option, but personally I use the wired remote anyway for any longish tripod photography because it doesn't shake the camera when I press the button. Mup mode + off camera trigger = no shake even with the longest lenses.

However, as /u/zeFinn pointed out elsewhere, it's a good idea to stack photos for long exposures instead of just taking one long picture; it helps cut down on noise from the camera sensor heat as well as normal noise because it can be filtered out in the stacking process. I only got away with this because it was about 20°F out, if it had been warmer the picture would have hot pixels everywhere. (if you look at that image in full resolution, the hot pixels are really obvious. That was nearly 20 minutes in t-shirt weather, so it turned out really badly.)

Get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/NEEWER-Digital-Shutter-Release-Trigger/dp/B005LTH7QA
I use it all the time and love it. It will allow you to set a pre-timer so that you can get into your car and then you can set the long exposure time through it also. I use it primarily for timelapse photography. Worth every penny.

I work in the software industry. There's no such thing as a "super straight forward" feature on a high end consumer electronic device like the A7. Every feature gets a design doc, project plan, quality assurance cycle, and user testing. Documentation has to be written; both for the user manual and the in-camera guide. That documentation has to be professionally translated into at least half a dozen languages

Programming is often a trivial part of adding a feature.

With an unsupported 3rd party add-on, doing something like that is no big deal. Support what languages you want. If it sucks or it's broken, release an update. It's not going to create black marks on your camera review.

And as far as it goes, you can use a cheap intervalometer do do what you're asking. Set the camera to 3 shot bracket burst (or whatever you want). Set the release to whatever schedule you like, in bulb mode with an exposure long enough to take 3 shots. This $30 unit will do the trick: http://amzn.com/B017GY5KWA

I shoot macro photography and the A7R3 actually loses the 3rd party app to create focus stacks. So, I have more reason than you to be annoyed with Sony.

You need an intervalometer. Nikon doesn't make an official one for your camera, so you need to get a third party one. I would not spend more than ~$30 on one.

I just got the cheapest one I could find and its worked fine for me. There are several other models on amazon like this one or this one that have slightly better ratings.

1. Nope! Put the flash into Manual mode, set the power of the flash, put it onto the camera's hotshoe, and fire away.
   
   
2. The YN-603N is a great option for off-camera wireless shooting. I've used the Canon equivalent with my 60D, and so I have one mounted onto the camera plugged in with the shutter release cord, the flash off-camera set to radio, and the second 603 in my hand as a remote shutter release. Hitting the button on the 603 will trigger both the off-camera flash as well as the camera's shutter. It makes the limited macro stuff I do much easier because then the camera shake is limited to the shutter.

Is this a good intervelometer for my d3200? does anyone have any better suggestions

New with a DSLR, I'm going to buy a remote wired shutter release to help me with long exposure shots (startrails, etc), for my Nikon D7100

I see an inexpensive one for $7.50, is that good enough? Is there anything more I should be looking for? The one I'm looking at.

Was the remote release the IR kind that works directly with the camera, and didn't need anything plugged into the camera? Like this?

If so, that may explain why it worked in bulb mode that way. Canon doesn't expect you to aim the IR remote at the camera for 5 minutes to do a 5 minute exposure. The camera knows you're using an IR remote, and acts accordingly. I'm just guessing, though.

On the other hand, a release that plugs into the side of the camera will have a built-in way to hold down the button, and Canon makes that kind of release work just like the shutter button.

The Yongnuo RF-603 (sold in pairs) is a dual mode transceiver that you can also use as a remote flash trigger. It's cheaper than the official Nikon remote solution, more flexible and I use mine a couple of times a month.

When you're using it in remote trigger mode, the setup looks something like this - and the button on the transceiver not connected to the camera will fire the shutter (it's dual-mode, so a half-press will focus just like your camera's shutter button, but you probably want to focus first.)

Note that there are several different retail packages of the RF-603 that include different cables for different lines of cameras. Some kits are for cameras with the port on the side vs 10-pin connector on the front - although the transceivers themselves are identical.

If you want to go really fancy, there are inexpensive laser triggers that can help you catch really fast-moving targets, but I have no experience using or setting up one of those.

extra battery is a must have.

remote for easy remote shutter


external usb powered battery charger

any anker battery pack is nice too, hook this up to your camera directly or to the charger above.

for bags/straps i'm a huge fan of peak design. they're expensive but damn good quality. https://www.peakdesign.com

Yongnuo RF-603 triggers work great for me. Although, they wont be very useful if you use your speedlites in TTL mode. It only supports speedlites in manual mode.

Oh okay. The one i'm looking at on Amazon has a shutter lock and unlock as well. I'm guessing that would just allow me to lock the button so the shutter doesn't open?

https://www.amazon.com/Fotasy-Mcable-Mechanical-Photography-Exposures/dp/B008OD1BNK/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&qid=1500140212&sr=8-19&keywords=cable+release+shutter

Didn't realize the IV had a radio transmitter in the first place. Might just go with the 560 III, and I actually wanted to use a manual flash, not TLL. Are there any wireless triggers I could buy for the flash? I saw a few but didn't know if I should drop on any of them or not, specifically this one Thanks for the help! Is there anything else you recommend or have an input on before I go off and purchase it?

I got the Fotasy grip which helps with handling and protects it a little from falls.

If you use a tripod grab an old school cable release. I love how Fuji adds these screw mounts in the shutter release however it would be nice to quickly override it in case it's not working.

also got some soft shutter buttons- which do fall off.

and a screen protector- but I'm clumsy so that's up to you.

I've got about 6 batteries. I got the double charger but it's pricey.

Isn't it worth spending $32 for the peace of mind on something like this

I have* a Neewer remote that does pretty close to what you want, and I use it to do this.
It's a corded remote, so set the delay to however long it'll take you to get in the shot.
Leave the bulb alone - instead set exposure on your camera.
Leave interval at 1 (as low as it goes), and it'll take a picture every one second. Not quite burst, but close.
Set the number to however many photos you want to take.
Leave the sound on, and if you have good ears, you'll hear when it's done from where you are.

• I don't actually have a Neewer, I have some even cheaper knockoff version. I think they all come from the same factory anyway. Mine was $15. Just find what kind of remote plugin you need and search Amazon for that.

I bought this for my 7D (works for 5d), it has been trucking on for years. Never had a problem, however I wouldn't use the onboard backlight for illuminating the screen when it's dark because it drains the battery, which actually has lasted forever. However I just bought this a few weeks ago before the kickstarter fund ended. It's just about the best intervalometer that's going to be on the market. It can do bramping for sunsets and sunrises, plus the creator is planning on making it open source for more features to be added (controlling your camera via bluetooth with your ipad or iphone for example).

60mm micro - $200

d7000 kit - $700 (look for a kit so you get extra lenses for other lifestyle work)

Yonguno Flash - $75

Wireless kit - $35.

You're $10 over your limit but you'll probably make that up with a smart purchase on the 60mm or d7000 kit.

Why so ghetto? Just get a cable release, they cost like $5 :)

Here you go. You got lucky it's right next to me right now ha. Amazon link

I have an older DSLR and I just got one of these... It works great.

http://www.amazon.com/Ramozz-intervalometer-remote-shutter-Camera/dp/B00C1C0WQC

I admire your ingenuity but dude.

-)

It's a shutter release button. Something to screw into where the shutter release cord normally goes. The range from cheap plastic 5 dollar options to 50 dollar nice engraved versions.

https://www.amazon.com/VKO-Shutter-Release-Compatible-Fujifilm-x/dp/B01M2COLAQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543218427&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shutter+release+button&dpPl=1&dpID=41bYgYVbfmL&ref=plSrch

Personally it makes it easier for me to hit the button smoothly since I have sort of shaky hands. This plus the hot shoe thumb attachment is really helpful for shaky hands.

The general concept is really easy. Maybe it's just the times I've tried it, but I would have expected the moon to track a little more.

Most cameras should be able to let you do up to 30s of exposure. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but Canons don't have the functionality to go beyond that, while Nikon does (don't ask me about any others). Because it has a million different names, let's just say that if you own a Canon, you may have to get a doohickey to allow for > 30 seconds.

To start, I wouldn't even worry about filters. Just try out different times and aperture settings. If you want lights to have a more starburst type effect, you need to make sure you shutter smaller (larger f/#) and go for a longer time.

Here are some of my others:

https://i.imgur.com/wzt6fit.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/o7wpcxj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Y1bw0SF.jpg

That's great info, thanks very, very much. This is starting to take some (admittedly amorphous) shape in my brain.

Would these Yongnuo YN-622N Transceivers suffer from the radio limitation you describe (RF I presume)?

Or were you referring to the less expensive kind such as these?

These are off-camera flash triggers, but they can also be used as wireless shutter releases.

I would recommend the Nikon ML-L3 but it's not compatible with the D3100.

Is this a mechanical intervalometer?

If not, would you be able to help at all?

I just picked up a Wescott 60" convertible umbrella (you can make it a shoot-through with the black peeled of), an Impact 13' light stand, an umbrella holder, 2 Yongnuo 603N's (to fire the flash remotely), and I'll be using my SB-600 flash I picked up from eBay for about $220. That's what I found going between Strobist and Zack Arias' awesome DVD "OneLight"


Also - I plan on shooting portraiture with my Nikon D7000 + 50mm 1.8. We're in the same boat.

What camera? You don't need one at all if you can install magic lantern, it's built into the software (what I use) - otherwise the cheap Amazon knockoffs (http://www.amazon.com/Shutter-Release-Timer-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1394018085&sr=1-5&keywords=canon+cable+release) work as well as the canon $100 ones (what I used before ML).

edit: ah, i see your have a nikon. maybe this one: http://www.amazon.com/GTMax-Digital-Shutter-Release-Control/dp/B00463ERCY/

OP might have a wired remote (like this) but should still plug and play.

Yognuo makes some incredible flashes for the price - fully compatible with Canon, Nikon, etc. This is a superb flash, and this is the accompanying trigger for Canon 450D. There's a receiver built into the 560, but I don't think you can buy just one trigger.

If you have a mac and a camera, just plug it in and have the Image Capture utility auto shoot every x number of seconds.

If not, either get a camera that has this ability built in, or get a timelapse specific attachment for your camera such as this one.

Once you have all the shots taken (I recommend 1 shot every 1 or 2 minutes) put them into a video editor (imovie works well but others should be fine) and set the frames to say .1 seconds each. Export that resulting series of frames as a movie and voila!

I made this timelapse using this technique.

OR

Get a smartphone timelapse app and just set your phone up to shoot the shots. Downside to this is that you wont have a phone for the duration of the print :( but it'll take care of almost everything else including exporting a video for you :)

I want to get a lighting set up for a home studio. I was going to get some youngnuo flashes from amazon. However, how do I find a set of 1 trigger and 3 receivers for a 3 point light set up?

In this amazon pckg it looks like I only have one set. are they all synced to the same frequency?

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=pd_bxgy_p_text_z


Any tutorials good tutorials for these flashes? I been looking but wound up with 1hr vids where the photogapher talks 90% about how cool he is and 10% of how to use the product.

I have a speedlite and just gave up trying to use it last summer, because it was so hard to use. The power was so strong. I tried one of those caps to diffuse but it seemed futile

I also have a D3100. To keep the shutter open for an arbitrary amount of time, you need to use the Bulb shutter setting. Go into Manual mode and "slow" the shutter speed to the setting past 30" (30 seconds). In Bulb setting, the shutter stays open as long as the shutter release button is depressed. If you want to do long exposures without camera shake, you're going to need to buy a shutter release cable. I use the Nikon MC-DC2, and I think that's the only one that works with the D3100.

As for seeing Live View (or the viewfinder) while the camera is at ground level, there are accessories you can buy, like this expensive one. I don't know of any others off the top of my head. I'm sure you'll be able to find something with a bit of searching, though.

That's not what wifi means; it has nothing to do with a data plan. You can communicate between your camera and your phone by wifi.

You don't need infrared--most cameras don't have that. You can also use a radio remote, like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Pixel-TW-283-S2-Wireless-Shutter/dp/B017GY5KWA

I find wired shutter releases like these much more reliable than IR. www.amazon.com/dp/B005TCJJ9M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_VA5Xub0DX47BM


I have had nothing but problems with using IR remotes. With IR you will have to sometimes dance around while pressing it to get it to work. A wired or RF release will work MUCH more consistently

My two cents is that it's not really worth it. Yes, TTL can be convenient if all you will ever do is to shoot with on-camera flash, and leave your camera in auto all the time, and with an advanced wireless setup with multiple flashes, it's somewhat convenient to be able to adjust the ratios from the camera itself, rather than having to go to each flash in a different setup.

That said, in terms of advanced lightning and overall versatility, you are going to have a much better time with a wireless setup and multiple flashes.

However, for the price of the one SB-700, you can have:

1. 2x Yongnuo YN-560 III - 2 x $85 = $170
   
2. Yongnuo RF-603 wireless transmitter - $32 - ^1
   
3. Cowboystudio double light kit - $68
   
   Total: $268, that leaves you with enough to add a softbox or some lightning modifiers.
   
   Here's the thing: A manual flash, and compensating for it, even if you occasionally mount it on your camera becomes second nature after just a week or two, and the sheer convenience of being able to (let's say you're photographing a party), being able to just put two flashes in the room, set them both to something reasonable, point them at the ceiling, and shoot away handily beats out TTL, and avoids the harsh light on-camera flash gives you.
   
   
   Since you're giving prices in euros, you may want to check amazon.fr, amazon.co.uk or amazon.de - whichever of these is more local to you - the Yongnuo gear is usually available there, and light stands to the Cowboystudio are usually also available, and shipping may be cheaper.
   
   ---
   1. Note there are two different Nikon models, the N1 or the N3 - you'd need to check which model you need.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Aputure-Control-compatible-Inexpensive-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y34AK6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417525971&sr=8-3&keywords=intervalometer+canon

That’s the one I’m using (or a different branded version of it). Very happy with it, does the job, no problems. Bought it 5 years back or so, still with the original battery.

I think it's worth getting a cheap cable release for your D5300. You can find them for under $10.

https://www.amazon.com/SHOOT-Release-Shutter-Trigger-Digital/dp/B00MCA191K/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1ZSU953HZ1EVU&keywords=nikon+d5300+remote+shutter+release&qid=1567601416&s=gateway&sprefix=nikon+d5300+%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-8

Get an external flash. If I'd bought one of those I likely wouldn't have had a strong urge to upgrade my two kit lenses as fast as I did. This plus these and you're set. I recommend buying rechargeable batteries, you'll need 4 AA for the flash, and 2 AAA per wireless transmitter.

Ah yes, I do have a PC connector Amazon link of Yongnuo 603n. I was much too tired yesterday night to even think of that!

I'll give it a shot. Wouldn't be the worst thing in the world if it works.

Sorry, not sure if its worth selling them separately, the trigger are only $25 on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/RF-603-Wireless-Transceiver-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B0099SGFZI )

I use a $10 Foto&Tech remote off Amazon, it worked on my a6000 and works now it works on my a7rii
https://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510695460&sr=8-4&keywords=sony+camera+wireless+remote

I don't really know whether ones better than the other. I owned a D40 but I've never used a D70 nor really looked at them.

You can do a quick comparison here - http://snapsort.com/compare/Nikon_D40-vs-Nikon_D70

But either way, you are better investing in lenses rather than the body. So I would say get whatever one is cheapest so you have more money for a good lens.

I'm not really sure what to recommend in terms of continuous lighting as everything cheap I've used has always sucked but you could pick up a Yongnuo flash. The set up with a flash would probably be about £75 (There iwll be cheapest places for some of this stuff).

This might be a bit over kill to begin with but some links anyway just in case:

flash and triggers:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN-560-II-ELECTRONIC-SPEEDLIGHT/dp/B009APY9TO/
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/

Stand, bracket and umbrella:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Photography-Light-professional-studio-photolamps/dp/B0011363NS/ref=pd_bxgy_ph_img_z

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flash-Shoe-Umbrella-Light-Stand-Holder-Bracket-Mount-B-/390442523341?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item5ae8301acd

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/33-Studio-Flash-Translucent-White-Diffuser-Umbrella-/190507468777?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item2c5b2147e9

TTL can be nice in certain situations depending on what he's shooting, but yeah, a ~$30 price drop per transceiver for losing TTL is significant.

Hey OP: http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/

First do as others have suggested and make sure you understand how it is supposed to work to focus, if you find it is not always working right the switch in your camera could be broken. You can get one of these to test it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001G9TYHE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If that works all the time your button is broken, I picked up a used 5D and had similar weird intermittent problems then it totally stopped working, I took it apart and found the first piece of metal in the two stage switch had broken, it can be fixed but it requires taking basically the whole camera apart, my camera works great now.

Really? Would this not work? Because I used one with my d3200 and never had an issue

Neewer Digital Timer Remote Shutter Release Trigger(Replacement for MC-DC2)for Nikon D90 D5000 D5200 D7100 D4 Digital Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NFwtDbYPK5GFF

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4

Try those. Buy yourself a couple spares and they'll be as reliable as you need.

From my list that would be THIS

just this but at a much cheaper price

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LZxBCb5PBM1ZZ

This may not be the exact one you need, check the compatibility.

wait! I have one of those! This one: (https://www.amazon.com/Foto-Tech-Wireless-Control-Cameras/dp/B00GSAEN4A/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1497150913&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=cam.in+remote+a6000) which I have never used and it's still sealed. Same I should have researched beforehand.

The pro Canons use a different connector from the axial plug of the low-end models.

https://www.amazon.com/Aputure-Remote-Shutter-Release-Intervalometer/dp/B003Y34AK6 or
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Timer-Remote-Canon-D2000/dp/B005LT7CE2/

Yup, you need an intervalometer. Here's a cheap one that I have:

>Neewer Digital Timer Remote Shutter Release Trigger(Replacement for MC-DC2)for Nikon D90 D5000 D5200 D7100 D4 Digital Camera https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005LTH7QA

There's cheapo ones that have intervalometers and bulb timers too. Ex: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M

I use these

If you bought a wireless remote it not going to work on the D3100. You need a wired one to work correctly. This one will work and give you more options than the oem nikon one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y2YTEE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_AGZPub1PB96F6

Would this work?

If lenses are out, then what about light?

Get a flash and some radio triggers, it'll change the way you do things.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CIRTH4/ref=oh_o04_s00_i00_details

is what i have now, and

http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-NPT-04-Channel-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B002W3IXZW/ref=pd_bxgy_p_img_b

is what i was gonna look into getting. but someone below said he uses something that is almost as just as cheap so maybe these might work? what do you think?

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1334613115&sr=8-4

Attach one of these radio triggers to the hotshoe mount on your camera and the other the hotshoe mount of your SB-600.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452508589&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+603



Then place the radio trigger and your flash onto this and fire away

http://www.amazon.com/Photography-Studio-Umbrellas-Fancierstudio-UB1/dp/B004HR0M4Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1452508670&sr=8-4&keywords=light+stand+umbrella

What justifies the high cost of the Manfrotto tripods? The legs cost ~$150 and the Ball head is another $100 or so. Also, would a fisheye lens be suitable for astrophotography?

Comment: The D3100 does not have an IR receiver, thus a cord release is necessary:
http://www.amazon.com/Nikon-MC-DC2-Release-Digital-Cameras/dp/B001F6TXME/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346031587&sr=1-4&keywords=nikon+remote

Indeed, with the Yongnuo Wireless Shutter Release Transceiver Kit . Inexpensive and reliable.

I haven't used it for long periods of time, but I haven't experienced any of this with my X-T2 or signs of it with the X100F so far. Could just be the buttons you're using? I bought these for mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2COLAQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

OP could also buy these triggers for which the YN560 has a receiver built in:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004YW79F4

As a pair they can trigger any manual flash, but as long as you have a YN flash you only need one trigger. Saves one more piece of equipment to keep track of and carry batteries for.

Mine is no longer available but this one is similar and quotes up to 100 hr exposure right in the specs

On the cheap I strongly recommend the yongnuo unit. Also works as a wireless shutter release, and very well reviewed for the price.


If you've got the coin, the pocketwizards are worth it, but for just starting out the yongnuo's are a steal.

you can buy an intervalometer from amazon for $15 and use your t6i for time-lapse shots. they both share the same 24mp sensor, so image quality will be identical. If it was me, i would get the t6i, because of the higher focus points, but that's because I only take stills and 9 point is too low when you are taking stills.

I use daylight normally, no flash. And I use THIS wireless remote control.

How important is TTL when using a single OCF?

Basically, I'm learning to use my SB700 but don't like having the sync cable attached to my camera. I'm considering a few wireless options:

Yongnuo

or

Pocket Wizard

The key question here is that I'm still figuring things out and don't know how often I'll need/want to use my flash. If I go the cheaper route, I'm limited to only using the flash in manual mode (versus the industry standard pocket wizards). So, is flash in manual mode a disadvantage for a beginner and I should go with the pricier, but more versatile PWs? Or is TTL not crucial for beginner/intermediate work?

Thanks!

Hey!

I got a little issue regarding my DSLR camera (Canon 4000D) (I know it doesn´t have a good reputation, but I just got started in photography and didn´t wanna spend too much money on my first camera)... So, the problem is, that I recently bought an intervalometer for my Canon 4000D to get started in taking time-lapses, but soon after I bought it, I realized that there is no port at my camera to connect the intervalometer with it. Also, the adapter cables I got from the package with the intervalometer do not fit.

The only 2 ports that my camera has are HDMI and (I think) mini USB b type. Do you know if there is any possible way to connect the regular jack connection from the intervalometer with my camera? Or connect an intervalometer with the camera in general.

This is the intervalometer I got:

https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Remote-Control/dp/B0081EC08M/ref=sr_1_4?crid=34LO8ERMFRZWR&keywords=intervalometer+canon&qid=1555961227&s=gateway&sprefix=intervalometer+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-4

I just can´t find any solution online and really wanna start doing time-lapses...

I tried a similar thing with two sets of Cactus triggers - it didn't work. Dealing with the poor quality cheapo triggers got to be a pain, especially if one part of a set died.

I ended up buying these transceivers, which are freaking awesome. I get ~100yd range out of them, and they also work as a remote cable release.

I use Yongnuo radio triggers with my d5100. They are about $30 for a pair and have worked well for me. They'll let you remotely trigger the shutter, but you can also used them to sync off-camera flashes (manual only, no TTL).

If you buy two or more pair, you can both trigger the shutter and off-camera flashes.

My only complaint is that when syncing flashes, there seems to be a little delay. That little delay means the flashes don't go off soon enough and I sometimes see black bars at my sync speed (1/200th). I have to set my shutter a bit slower, at 1/160th to eliminate the black bars. But for $30 a pair, that's a minor thing.

Something to keep in mind when using it as both a shutter remote and flash sync: You can trigger your shutter just by plugging one into your camera with the short shutter cable. It doesn't need to be in the hot shoe for that. You can then put a flash in your hot shoe and use TTL. However, you can't remotely trigger flashes that way. To sync off-camera flashes, you have to have one trigger in your camera's hot shoe. You can then stack a flash on top of the trigger, but you'll lose TTL for that flash. The trigger in your hot shoe can also have the shutter cable attached, serving both as the receiver for the shutter button in your hand and also as the flash sync master transmitter.

The reason the flash sync requires one in the hot shoe is because even though it knows when you press the remote shutter button, it can't know how long it takes your camera to activate the shutter. If it were to guess wrong, the flash would go off at the wrong time and the light would fall on a closed shutter. The trigger in your hand activates the one plugged into your shutter release. The camera starts the process of taking a picture. Some (very short) time later, the camera sends a signal to the hot shoe. The trigger in the hot shoe (probably the same one that's plugged into your shutter release) senses that signal and only then transmits to the other triggers to fire the off-camera flashes, ensuring that the flashes go off at the correct time.

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Shutter-Transceiver/dp/B004YW79F4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405975513&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+radio+trigger