Reddit mentions: The best car amplifier noise filters

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

I've had luck with https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015RCYICQ/ as being a real mix (31) vs the random stuff that most are. I had severe issues of RFI coming down the power line of my two dashcams (power directly to them was fine, but ran off other power they generated lots of RFI along the cable) and I put two of these beads about 3" down the cable and eliminated almost all of the interference. I would try this on all of the cables coming into the radio. They make these in various sizes, so you might need to get multiple sizes. You can't really easily put it on something too big, but if it's too small and you have enough wire loop it around the bead and it'll do even better.

For giggles I realized I hadn't reviewed the beads yet, so here's my review I just posted with more details on my dashcam RFI experience.

It's getting harder and harder to find ferrite beads that are an actual real mix that's useful. It would be better if they told us exactly what mix this is, but per comments along with my own observations this does appear to be a 31 mix or something very similar as my dashcams were giving off really bad RFI on 2m. Several frequencies were fulll-scale interference and others were severely desensed. I started unplugging things in the car and found it was my front and rear dashcam that were causing it. Both seemed to have different impacts. The front was a wideband desense, with the rear unplugged I had issues clearly receiving repeaters, even NOAA which is SUPER strong. It kind of faded in and out etc. I then unplugged the front again, plugged the rear in. The rear was creating the spurs that was full-scale interference on various frequencies across 2m. I did not attempt to see how far it went. I started looking around to see if I could find better USB cables or a different way to power them, then thought I should try ferrite beads but I really didn't have any, all of mine are in use. So i got these based on comments that they were a Mix 31.

I started with one bead on the front camera cable and then added a second one and found it to improve things, then I plugged in the rear camera and unplugged the front again and did the same on the rear. Again, since they were creating different types of noise it was important to test them separately. I wound up putting two of these on the power cords coming into the dashcams about 3" out and that reduced the RFI to the point where if I have the squelch on my radio (Kenwood D710GA) open I can hear when the dashcams power up but no obvious interference in normal use now. I will likely get more of these to have around. Just make sure you get the right size. Looping the cable around the bead improves the choking but if you need to put this over thicker cable, cable you can't loop, coax, etc, you'll want to get the right size.

Noob indeed, but great to illustrate how to approach signal chain issues.

Always start with the signal source device and media. Most modern devices are capable of reading and outputting a variety of audio formats. If you have stereo speakers, that is the output setting you want in your player's settings. You now need to know which physical connections output that stereo signal. It is possible for that output to be RCA usually red and white and/or 3.5mm audio out. The 3.5 mm might say line out or headphone out. Headphone out is probably (always?) amplified and adjustable using the volume on the source. Line out is not amplified and adjustable only post-output (almost always. I had a Peavey powered mixer that broke this rule).

So now you have speakers or headphones you want to connect. If speakers, are they self-powered? If so, do they have connectors matching your outputs? If so, use the appropriate male-to male patch cable. If not, can you use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable? Or 3.5mm to RCA adapter? Chances are good for one of these. But if audio is HDMI only, use something like the device linked earlier to create it.

Now have a listen. If it sounds good, you're golden. If not, does it sound like your content is being obscured by white noise? If so, you need a ground loop device. I bought one on Amazon recently for about $10. I will try to find a link. It is also possible if the output is headphone/amplified, to need an attenuator.

Lastly, when getting help on connection issues, it always cannot hurt to include all devices you want in your signal chain including source, output and processing devices.

Edit: link to ground loop device... Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

That mixer was actually the first mixer I bought, too. It started my long, expensive journey into audio hardware specifically for 2 PC streaming setups. I tried many mixers, got frustrated and tried to downscale to just an interface, got frustrated with that and tried Voicemeeter but hated that.

If you're budget is around 200-400$ for the mixer, you can go with a ZED 10 FX. This was a popular mixer, with streamers like Lirik and Waffle using it. Waffle might even still use it. It has the ability to essentially produce 2 output mixes using a technique called mix minus. The mixer as a master mix output and an AUX/FX output. The mixer also has the ability to send inputs to master output or FX output or both - this is what enables this mixer to do the mix minus technique. You're basically abusing the FX output.

Going the mixer route like above will result in needing a lot of cables, "buzz boxes", etc. The ZED is also pretty big and takes up a lot of desk space. It gets messy, but it's all true-analog if that's your goal.

If you don't care about hearing the audio from your stream PC, you can easily just buy a line splitter and split your mic line - one to gaming PC the other to streaming PC. But, I imagine you want to hear the audio from your stream PC, too. You could just use a standard 3.5mm cable from stream PC back to gaming PC and then use software like Voicemeeter to mix them into your headphones. I did this for a bit, but I'm not a fan of Voicemeeter because it kept randomly not working for me.

You could always go the Voicemeeter VBAN route, and just pipe everything over your LAN using their VBAN feature. But for me this seemed to break a lot and just annoyed me. It's neat though and requires no cables or mixing hardware.

In the end, the best thing that I've found and settled on and currently use is just a higher end audio interface that comes with some really great mixing software. The interface I use is the Babyface Pro. Alone, this is just a glorified audio interface, but I also use a Digiface USB which is a digital audio interface. I found these through Lirik, who uses this now.

So, in the end, my setup is as so ...

1. Babyface Pro plugged into my gaming PC
   
2. Digiface USB plugged into streaming PC
   
3. Headphones plugged into Babyface Pro
   
   With this setup, which is essentially just 2 audio interfaces, you can isolate basically any audio device into a recording channel and send it to and from the Digiface / Babyface. I've got channels that only I can hear, channels my stream can hear, mixes of channels, etc. I have my game console on its own channel, etc. It all "just works" and you can have MANY output channels instead of struggling to achieve only two. For example, the Digiface that I use has 66 channels.
   
   I do also have a Cloudlifter in my chain, but the Babyface Pro is good enough to give gain to my mic (sm7b). I'm tempted to take the Cloudlifter out and free up even more desk space.
   
   Audio is by far the biggest annoyance when moving to a two PC setup. Hope this helps.

I love my SyncUP DRIVE because it is able to add a whole dimension to our SUV.

I don't know what it is about FM radio in cars, but the last couple vehicles, the signal and audio quality has been absolutely atrocious. Unless you have that HD Radio feature built-in on your car's entertainment system, it's so staticky and low quality that it's not even worth listening to.

So, I grabbed a second-gen Amazon Echo Dot on sale for $30 and plugged it in my car, with a 1A micro-USB charger and an audio cable (plus a ground loop noise isolator to remove the humming/hissing noise), and now my wife and I are able to stream our favorite FM radio stations via iHeartRadio and TuneIn, not to mention Amazon Music, Pandora, and Spotify. Granted, Amazon streams their audio through an encrypted network connection (akin to a VPN connection), so T-Mobile is not able to downsample it and therefore is not Music Freedom-eligible, so that streaming counts against my monthly data allotment.

We've got the grandfathered Mobile Internet 6GB plan with Binge On and Music Freedom for $40, with a $10 discount for having phone lines, and $5 discount for AutoPay, ultimately bringing it to $25 per month. Surprisingly, there's also another 6GB plan for $25, but T-Force says the discounts are already applied to that, and the plan is tweaked, but not for the better: throttling on these new plans specifically state that they're forced down to 2G speeds, whereas my grandfathered plan says it's just "slowed down." I've never broken the 6GB barrier in a single month, as I use up 4-5GB per month with encrypted music streaming, so I don't know what the speeds are after that. I also have 4G LTE tethering, but I hardly use that as well.

In addition, I also grabbed an Amazon Fire TV Stick for $30 and plugged it into the Rear Entertainment System's HDMI port (and USB port for power), so the kids can watch Netflix, Hulu, Amazon Video, and even the SlingPlayer app back to my Slingbox connected to my TiVo at home, so they can watch their recorded shows and live TV. All those streams are zero-rated for Binge On, so they can watch all they want to their hearts' content. No more swapping DVDs and Blu-rays, it's all on demand.

All that, plus vehicle monitoring/tracking/logging, diagnostics, and included Roadside Assistance, this is probably the coolest thing to have on my T-Mobile account.

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

Yeah, do that xD And please, if you find yourself putting your voice through noise removal plugins, upgrade your equipment. Is far better in the long run as you'll save time and will get BETTER results. Noise removal is rarely a good option. You can:

-Isolate your recording station better from outside noise (thus reducing the need for noise gates)
-Get better cables (gold plated)
-Get those magnetic noise shields (https://www.amazon.com/VSKEY-Anti-Interference-Telephones-Equipment-Appliances/dp/B078XKHLKG)
-Get better gear (mic and/or interface)
-Get a better/separate power source for your audio things. (I still don't know what gear you're using)
-Compress, and limit. Compress, and limit. Compress, and limit.

This doesn't seem to be an uncommon problem. It's likely a ground loop issue related to less-than-optimal shielding. Some guy got his replaced and it came back fixed, however this tends to be a rather common issue with such thin devices, so I wouldn't get my hopes too high on a replacement being much better. I also have this problem, but got one of these and it fixed it wonderfully. While it would be nice to not need an external filter to carry around (though it's quite small), I'm perfectly happy with this solution. I've also found that turning on the 'lower headphone output' option in system settings makes it a lot less audible.

One thing that may solve this problem is to use balanced outputs. Since you have an interface that uses RCA, they are not balanced. You would need an interface(like the Scarlett 2i2) with TRS or XLR outputs. Getting a better interface probably isn't in the cards for you, but that is one solution.

A cheaper alternative would be to get a ground loop isolator like this one here for $10:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541691319&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

This product worked like a charm for my JBL's. It looks like you will also have to buy a few different cables as well since yours won't plug into this.

Ah yes I forgot about the mic... So I guess I'll go for the X1s anyway and plug the mic into my motherboard with a jack extension cable and hope for the best.

Just to double check, if that causes a gound loop, a noise isolator like the Mpow one plugged between the X1s and the X2 would work fine right?

Thanks again for being so available, it's greatly appreciated.

Seems to make sense to me, just make sure whatever you are tapping your speakers can be supported by your amp. (I typically give it a 2.0 Safety Factor for power.) Try to avoid sharing outlets of your audio system with anything else (like PC or other appliances.) If you do, you may need one (or more) ground loop isolators https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VXXU83M8Y6CP&keywords=ground+loop+isolator+rca&qid=1572640221&sprefix=ground+loop+is%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3

Good luck, building a speaker setup, like a PC is a great learning experience!

Thanks for the extra suggestions. I also have the X2s and agree they are incredible sounding headphones. If OP has the money to burn then these take the spot of the SHP9500 easy.

For the mic, I prefer the boom mic since I had issues with my keyboard getting picked up on my Blue Snowball while I had it. I even tried putting dampers on my MX Brown keyboard to get rid of the clack. GREAT sound quality, but it picked up literally everything.

As for ground loop hums I've never had a problem with that but something like the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator is a great solution. Using one in my car as it is an incredibly noisy environment for EMI.

sure thing. the box on my desk is a Schiit SYS (the specs are in the imgur album, but I just now posted it in here too as a reply). The SYS is just an input selector with volume control. I am using my motherboard's onboard DAC since it is actually a good one. So an RCA to 3.5mm cable goes out of my PC goes into a ground loop isolator in the back and then the RCA end goes into the SYS.

I have my turntable go into the box on the right of it, which is a phono pre-amp. This brings the turntable audio to line level and makes it suitable for output on my speakers. I have RCA cables go from the preamp into the SYS. So this allows me to switch between PC output or turntable output.

I don't need a separate amp for my speakers because they are powered speakers. They sound great and the whole system is a huge upgrade from my previous ones. I used to have the turntable plug into the PC via USB, but the quality took a huge loss. I used to have my PC go into a separate DAC (actually an audio interface, the Scarlett 2i2, but it is a very capable DAC as well) and then to the speakers. The sound quality when using the Scarlett is the same as having it go out of my motherboard now actually. The biggest difference was getting good speakers and having the turntable go through a phono preamp.

The headset is a steelseries headset that plugs into my PC via USB. I have a pair of ATHM50's, but I don't have a good way to plug them into my PC. I have plugged them into the audio port of my PC and that has been fine, but no way to use headphones with the turntable currently. I may get a headphone amp in the future, but since I live alone, headphone listening isn't a priority.

hope this helps!

This was a issue for me. I wanted something to use on my deck and yard. I just used a first gen solar Eton Ruckus. Plug in a Chromecast audio into its USB charge port and aux port. I needed a noise filter because of a ground loop. This is the one I used, it's about the size of the packets of Lifesavers candy. My ruckus has a pocket, for lack of better term, that holds everything.

http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2

Sugru or Velcro can also attach it to your speaker. The other thing I had was a short micro USB cable to power it. It's definitely less than elegant but it's functional.

Edit: I actually recommend against getting the built-in Chromecast speakers. I'll tell you why, I was into airplay speakers the manufacturers never update them. Some of my earlier airplay speakers barely work with the new operating system. Luckily they do work well still with airfoil and android airplay apps like allstream and AirAudio. If Google actually makes it's own; I would buy one. Or somebody makes one that you can dock a Chromecast audio I'd buy that.

Edit: fixed text (used dictation)

Xenyx 802 boards are not a USB audio interface. You would need to plug in your mic into ch1 or ch2, then if you just want to send you Mic input to your PC then you will need to take cable like this one (https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C) and plug it into your Main Out then the 3/4 end would plug into your microphone input on your PC.

You may want to use a ground loop isolator as well to ensure a clear and clean transfer of sound from the mixer to the PC. This is a good one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HJ35F2/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I1TOD2ZLXASPZE&colid=CB045PGEL00J). I hope this helps :)

Googling the Arctis Pro headset suggests to me that this is a wired headset. If it is wireless, then I've got no idea what's going on.

It sounds like your particular problem is a common one called ground loop noise, that occurs when source and destination use the same power supply or are connected to a common ground. My knowledge of electronics is limited, but I know about sound so I was able to research this enough to have a clue what might be going on. The fact that reducing the volume makes it go away is consistent with ground loop noise; lower volume means lower power and lower interference.

This could be an equipment defect, especially if this headset advertises clear 5x5 performance, though in my experience the advantages of a wired headset focus on ear comfort and constant uptime (no dependence on battery life). RF interference is an inevitable consequence of using a wire.

I suspect this noise may not exist until the signal reaches the computer, so using an inline filter won't remove it. It seems like a cheap part, though, so you could try it with minimal investment.

https://www.amazon.com/BESIGN-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B06XQYN77L?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1

Alternatively, you could plug your headset into a tiny USB sound adapter. A dedicated sound adapter may be smart enough to take measures to prevent this from occurring by simply isolating the power feeds or filtering the interference. The price range on that is larger, and I don't know if a cheap one will be crap and not actually fix your problem. This one looks good to me:

https://www.newegg.com/creative-sound-blaster-play-3/p/N82E16829102100?item=N82E16829102100&ignorebbr=1&source=region&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords-pc&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-pc-_-pla-_-sound+card-_-N82E16829102100&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_LHOvI9v1FKxzvmeEbCIO99WXsNg-5Zy1pfh6QDO8XWiowVKEUQQiAaAmvwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

OR... you could remove the noise with a software filter. I don't currently have this problem on any of my own equipment, so I can't test any of these, but something like NoiseGator may work.

https://sourceforge.net/projects/noisegator/

That's all I've got. I hope this helps, or at least gives you a starting point to understand your problem better and find a solution.

Just read through your post again and a few more things came to mind:

All Deepminds have balanced outputs - make sure you are using a proper 3-conductor (TRS->XLR) cable to connect to your UMC

Check your gain-staging. you want to make sure your source signal is nice and high so you aren't raising the noise floor by amplifying it at your interface so your deepmind ought to be turned up quite high and your UMC should not have the gains cranked if possible. Even if you have some bus noise, proper gain staging can sometimes reduce it to the point where you can barely perceive it.

You mention that the noise changes with keyboard action which is a sure-fire indication it's bus noise from your computer. Try connecting your UMC to different usb ports to see if there is a difference. On my setup the high speed (blue) usb ports seem to be isolated better than the others.

Make sure your phantom power (+48v) on the UMC is turned off)

Check the USB cable that you are using to connect your UMC to the computer: some cables have a ferrite core, otherwise know as a ferrite bead or "choke" that looks like a little cylinder on the cable: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead This is meant to keep high frequency noise from messing up the USB signal and it shouldn't effect any of the frequencies that are in the audible range but just in case it's encouraging the ground to go one way or the other try a cable both with and without to see if it helps.

The MicroHD will most likely solve the problem but so will these for a lower price:

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/ref=sr_1_6?crid=KUPCV1LLYM77

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HKATOPS-3-5mm-RCA-Ground-Loop-Isolator-AudioStereo-Hum-Noise-Filter-Audio-W27/202731548848

*note that when using these you will no longer have a balanced signal so keep your cable runs short, and you will have to get RCA->TRS adaptors to connect it between your synth and your interface.

Transformer isolators take an unbalanced signal in one side and induce the same signal into the output without any physical connection between the wires - so you immediately get rid of any DC bias and the system has to find a different route to ground (usually through the chassis or the ground pin on your power supply as it was intended)

If, down the line, you want to get a real swiss-army-knife isolator box I suggest:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mackie-MDB-2P-Stereo-Passive-Direct-Box-DI-Box/392059765174

...or something similar. A good passive DI will let you attenuate the signal and lift the ground so you can use them to solve a lot of different issues.

This isn’t a solution necessarily, but it may fix your speakerphone problem. I used to use AUX in my car before I found this little Bluetooth-AUX receiver. Plugs into both a cig lighter and your AUX, then every time you turn your car on your phone automatically connects to Bluetooth. Pretty handy, and works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vsGIDbCXA7R6Z


I’d recommend also picking this up if you’re interested - it silences the weird static noise the BT receiver produces through the car speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4tGIDbQDWD06Q

All a shielded cable is is effectively foil or another dielectric wrapped around the cord. It's pretty cheap, so as long as you buy one from a reputable dealer the chances are you're getting the real deal.

Another thing that could be tried is attaching a ferrite core to the cable. They soak up any RFI and EMI noise being inducted on the cable to a certain extent. Not a substitute for shielding, but they can help in some cases.

I have had a very similar issue before with some microphones when being fed plug-in or phantom power when the microphones didn't need it or at the incorrect voltage. I'd imagine that the G7 is putting plug-in power out the microphone input. Some cameras do let you disable that in the settings menu so worth a try if you can.

It could just be the G7 itself with internal noise issues. I havn't heard anyone complain that the G7 has such issues though, so that would be a first for me, though that sort of 'digital noise' is very common in complicated devices like PC sound cards where there's a lot of activity on the board around the preamps.

Not sure if the G7 has either of these, but if the camera does have wi-fi or bluetooth make sure those are switched off too.

I've been trying to get a similar solution but between two PC's. I'm not a streamer, I just want to listen to a feed both and adjust the volume as needed. I bought a Rolls MiniMixer II which does the job.

​

I use Line out 3.5 to RCA into the a pair of line ins into the MiniMixer - then from the line out into a headphone amp to push the feed into my headphones. I put a ground loop isolator to minimize hiss.

​

I've been happy so far, but I'm wondering if there is a better solution.

I've been having a similar problem. Some research lead me to 'ground loops'. It can be a static-y hum often times. Try a Ground Loop Isolator of some kind. I have xlr and this sorta worked for me. A cheap way to test an otherwise expensive issue. If you're not using xlr, you can try more common methods for cars. There's also cutting it off at the source by using an ac jack isolator. Or if you can't afford that, try using noise reduction plug ins from other DAWs. I use isotope to remove my noise now. It's pricey, sure, but it's 10000% worth its price. A beautiful piece of software that's perfect for my processing when I'm not using Reaper or Audacity.

Had this issue with our 09. Bought a ground loop filter off Amazon and that took care of it.

This is the one I bought (or so says my amazing order history): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6pzFybQ1Z9Q0D

I'm sure others like it would work.

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

It's most likely not CB, it's probably HAM (amateur radio). Like /u/a_crazy_horse said, if you ask him, he will probably help you eliminate the interface, although he is not legally required to.

Your headphones and computer are a FCC Part 15 device, and must accept all unwanted interference by law, but that doesn't mean he's not a nice guy who likes solving problems like that.

Onto further diagnosing. Something is acting as an antenna for you, it could be the headphone wire, or any of the other numerous cables running into your computer. I'd start with ferrite chokes and see if that stops it. With the electrical wiring in your house being the longest wire that the computer is connected to, I would start with your computers power cord, then the headphones, but it won't hurt to do both.

In regards to other comments here, 4 watts is the legal maximum on CB, for amateur it is 1500 watts. Also, the police will do nothing for you. It's a waste of yours and their time to try. You can try the FCC, and they would probably tell you to talk to the neighbor first, which takes us back to the top of this comment. But ultimately, the FCC is responsible for things like this.

On a side rant, nobody ever speaks to their neighbors anymore when they have a problem, communication is wonderful.

Ok, I think I got this.

-

1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
   
2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
   
3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
   
4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
   
5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.
   
   So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?
   
   Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

Cool beans :)

Might be able to improve results with the third party supply by wrapping the cable a few times through a big clip on ferrite like this https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543299320&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rfi+filter&psc=1&smid=A2C3AMRQC5GI7N

Funny you should mention that, I think all Z5's DO share the issue, because I bought the first set from Best Buy, returned them because they wouldn't price match, got the same speakers from amazon, and am now just praying that the ones suggested work, because oh my god returning stuff is a pain in the ass.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2 Heck I wonder if one of these might help lol.

Also, it's sudden volume changes you say?

In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.

Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.

edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).

So, here are some common ways to remove "static" from your system.

1. Upgrade your ground wires. (for your car battery, stereo, Alternator, and your amplifier negative connection) Make sure your amp's ground wire is connected to a CLEAN piece of metal on the body, no paint!
   
   
2. Connect a ground wire to the negative side of the RCA plugs going into the amplifier.
   
   
3. Double check how your RCA's are run through the car.
   If you have your main power wire for your amp running on the left side of the car, then you want to have your RCA's and Speaker wires running on the opposite side of the car.
   
   
4. Use "Ground Loop Isolators" on every pair of RCA's going into the amplifier. http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE
   
   
5. Make sure your positive and negative connections to the amp is clean and solid, not loose or damaged looking.
   
   
6. Make sure you have a nice tight connection on the battery and that the battery connections are tight. Also check both sides of the fuse on the amp's power wire near the battery. Make sure the connections are clean and inserted completely.
   
   Try those. If you still have a noise issue, then we can do a real diagnostic from there.

Oh! Then you're ready to roll! The set should've come with some set up instructions. The setup should look like this:

Xbox USB and Optical go into the mixamp

Headset connects to mixamp

Stream/aux out goes from the mixamp to your PC's 3.5 audio-in port. You'll be able to add that audio as a source in OBS.

But before you do all this, install the Astro software on your PC so you can program the mixamp. I recommend setting it up so that ONLY chat audio goes through the 3.5 port, not the game audio (game audio will be better quality if you just use the audio from the HDMI/elgato).

Tweaking your sound levels will take some time because (as far as I know) you don't really have a way of monitoring/listening to what your viewers will hear as your streaming. What I did was record myself playing a quick game , joining chat and trying to talk as much as possible, then going back and listening to the recording. Based on what you hear, you tweak your game audio, chat audio and mic audio levels. I had to do this several times before I found a balance I was content with.

One last thing is that if you hear some high pitch interference coming from the 3.5 audio, you'll need a loop ground noise isolator. Here's the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Whine is caused by the unfiltered impulse charger .. You need something based on a voltage regulator, these are rare (usually cheap chinese chargers) but it's easy to build one yourself. Docking station won't solve your problems if it's still using impulse charger (most likely). Alternatively you could use DC/DC converter ie. AimTec AM3N-0505S

Edit: just found dedicated car ground loop isolators: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI worth a try if you don't mind this hanging from your AUX port ;)

I use this in my Kia at the moment. Works great! Wish it has a forward/rewind part at times, but it plays pretty well otherwise.

Also get a noise isolator in case you want to charge things at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019393MV2&pd_rd_r=FEMXD2FB1M9W9FCTJXCW&pd_rd_w=KXZVR&pd_rd_wg=tSvLf&psc=1&refRID=FEMXD2FB1M9W9FCTJXCW

Because the Switch is technically charging while docked, and you have an auxiliary coming out if it, you will get that buzzing sound. Notice that when you undock it, the buzzing sound goes away.

It's the same thing that some people go through when charging their phones in a car at the same time they have an aux plugged in, they get the buzzing sound(only in certain cars).

Your best bet, if you don't mind paying, is to get a Ground Loop Noise Islolator. Here is one that I found. Unfortunately, your speaker needs to have an aux input or this will be useless to you :/. I'm looking to buy this later this week, as my monitor doesn't have speakers, but I do have speakers on my desk that have an aux input. Good Luck!!!

happy to say it fixed my issue :D thank you very much...though I am going to return this and buy one from amazon because this filter + 2 trs adapters cost 30 bucks (each adapter was 7$)

i can get this from amazon for 8 bucks and not even need any adapters cus it has 3.5mm female which i can put my dual 1/4 to 3.5mm in :)

should this also work?

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449259813&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop+filter

>So, it should look like this?

Yes.

>My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

The speakers should mute when the line out is used.

>Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

You shouldn't need that.

We're pretty close to AptX HD car adapters being a reality, so I'd say wait a bit. If you must have one now, there are quite a few regular AptX ones on the market. Just look for one that has a USB type A plug rather than a built in car charger plug. Much better to use your own charger in the car to get fast charge, more than 1 slot, etc.

Something like this. This specific ones comes with a 3 slot charger, which I guess is cool if you don't care about fast charging. My car has 2 power plugs so it'd be great for me and leave room to hook up a dashcam using one of the other slots on the charger, and use my other plug for my phone fast charger.

But still, always get a ground loop isolator. They're usually under $10 and completely eliminate electronic whine. Like this.

I bought this 3.5mm isolator to work with my fucky setup, and it works wonderfully.

I do Switch -> HDMI -> Computer monitor without speakers -> audio out to external computer speakers -> Isolator -> Line in to PC -> usb to wireless headset.

It's great because if I pull the isolator out of the speakers, sound goes through the speakers. If I plug it in, sound (both PC and Switch) goes through the headset. Great for watching Netflix while grinding stuff in Fire Emblem Warriors!

I had the exact same issue. A PC and a few consoles, constantly having to plug headphones between them, it got annoying. I solved this issue with a simple sound mixer (less than 30 bucks on Amazon Germany, couldn't find it on Amazon US, but here's the exact model on Ebay). Four different devices just plug into the mixer and one output goes to my speaker, which in turn has my headphones and my bass cushion (it's a thing and it's amazing) plugged into it. Note that I had to use various adapters and converters, since this particular sound mixer uses 6.35mm mono audio jacks (two of them for each device), which I converted to RCA (use mono, not stereo adapters). PS2 and PS3 just connect directly via RCA with their analog cables, my Xbox One uses an HDMI audio extractor (powered by one of the console's USB ports) and a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and my PC the same kind of adapter, without the converter, of course.

The big advantage of this is that I don't have to switch between anything. All sound ends up in my headphones, without me having to do anything after the initial ten minute setup (which really just consisted of plugging everything in).

It is worth mentioning that with cheap sound mixers like the one I'm using there's likely going to be some humming and other noises, which my speakers thankfully filter out entirely before they reach my headphones. You may need an additional filter, which are however rather cheap. With my headphone directly plugged into the mixer, which I did just for testing, I also noticed that the general sound level was very low, which once again wasn't an issue anymore once I had plugged my speaker in between mixer and headphones.

good point, was planning on getting some thing like this if that is the case to help defuse.

always open for other suggestions tho... :)

Ahh, hum is quite different. That's likely grounding noise, and would be less common on higher end equipment, but you'd be surprised where this kind of issue rears it's ugly head :/ You can confirm this is the problem by turning up the volume on the amp when the source cables are not connected to another device. If it's grounding noise, you won't hear the hum unless the cables are plugged into a source that is also plugged into the wall.

You aren't too worried about extreme details of sound quality with this system, so a ground-isolation transformer is probably the best way to fix the hum and improve the experience of using the system.

Assuming your sub is not producing a distracting hum, the best place to install an isolation transformer is between the sub and the amp, as these are the devices most likely to be creating a ground loop. The cheapest option I found on a quick Amazon search:

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1462919977&sr=8-7&keywords=ground+loop+noise+isolator

That's good, at least.

Think you could get away with looping each ear's cable round a ferrite ring a couple of times and showing her something like this, with some pretty graphs showing how they can reduce EMF, and hope she misses the fact the EMF is generated in the buds themselves?

Right! Also, I only skimmed your post, and since you're using a receiver, and you're only hearing the sound through the sub, one of these between the receiver and sub might be better. I think either will work, as if I understand correctly the buzz is only present when using one of the PCs, but if you're connecting to the receiver with optical or HDMI, the RCA one between the receiver and powered sub is going to be the better option. You could also just get either the RCA or 3.5mm version and just use adapters, but, in my opinion, the fewer connections the better.

I have had very good luck with this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYYUJAT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So, if you are going to use headphones, like at all I would suggest getting this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Handy for any headphone application. I carry one in my edc.

are you talking about plug and play leds like these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6NZ7D8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZDQ8BK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1

what brand did you use, and would you recommend it.




also ferrit beads like this?

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527192099&sr=8-4&keywords=ferrite+beads&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011

A friend of mine talked to me about noise filters today. I honestly don't know if it works for a microphone but if you are willing to sacrifice a few dollars for a hopefully working fix then this little thing might help removing the noise from the microphone.

A shop that installs audio professionally will probably know more about electrical noise than a regular auto shop or mechanic by the way so if the shop who installed your radio doesn't know see if you can find a car audio shop in your area and ask them.

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ and then set up audio playback in your sound settings https://imgur.com/a/T0Qxbfo.

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable https://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/ and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

Now I've not tried this myself but maybe this thread could help you

https://www.operator-1.com/index.php?p=/discussion/2319/op-1-noise-fix

Here is the product mentioned.
There are definitely other solutions to this problem too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or just search Ground Loop Noise Isolator to find similar

You can get these at local stores for acoustics and electronic stores like RadioShack.

I guess you are from the US since you didn't mention another country - so, here is a Amazon.com link to some.

Newegg also has them.

If you are infact from Europe, visit http://gh.de/ .

Hope this helps! And keep on using Mumble! :)

Yeah it's coming from the speakers. I didn't turn the car on, i just had the radio on. I'd turn up the volume without any songs playing and it makes this loud frequency noise, then when I play the music I can still hear it faintly.

It sounds like this :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVwei9GcqwI

You think using something like this would help?
https://youtu.be/CrKQU-BoVZg?t=196
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541647353&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

You don't need to but a new set of headphones at all, you can buy an extension like this and plug it up to the back
Or you could try something like this which would allow you to stay connected in the front. It works by removing the ground which is causing all of the static.

Also here to say I'm having the same issue when using the aux cable in my car and Galaxy S7. (Just purchased 3/20)

I get static when using Maps, Google Music, and making calls (barely audible with all the static).

I have searched and come across some users recommending to go to Settings > Sounds and vibration > Sound quality and effects > [With an auxillary cable/headphone plugged in], switch UHQ upscaler from off > on. This surprisingly did the trick after I restarted I think. But now it is back to static and it's beginning to get annoying.

If you find a fix please update!

Update: Just wanted to drop by and say that I was able to fix the issue (as it stands anyhow). Taking the advice of a fellow redditor in this thread, I purchased this device and the static has ceased. Should I/you have to purchase something like this to make our brand new $600+ phone function normally? Probably not, but so far this has fixed my issue and I hope it can help someone else out there experiencing similar issues.

I don’t know much about console because I’m mostly a PC gamer but I would try the following things:

1. Get a high quality HDMI cable or just a different one and see if you still have issues.
   
   
2. Use the headphone jack on the console and split the audio — one to your PC and one to your headphones. If you use this method you might need a DAC to amplify the signal before the split. I’ve also found the line splitter sometimes cause noise so you can get a ground loop eliminator.
   
   I would have suggested you switch from on board sound or update your sound drivers but your on a console.
   
   Here’s the splitters, cables, and ground loop eliminator I use:
   
   Splitter - KabelDirekt Pro Series Y Stereo Splitter - 1 x 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female - Y Cable Splitter Produces Equal Audio Output for Headphones, Earphones, and Speakers (0.5ft, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWcxCbK4KWTBN
   
   3.5 to 3.5 - KabelDirekt Pro Series 10 feet ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI88X32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   GL Eliminator - PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   This setup works for me because I use a sound blaster AE5 and the headphone jack already has an amp in it.
   
   You might try something like this:
   
   Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t0cxCbPH562B6
   
   So hook up from headphone console output to 4 channel stereo amp input. Then. One out cable to headphone and the other cable to LINE IN on PC and then separate the audio from elgato in OBS
   
   

• good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I’m not a super expert but was able to self resolve most of my audio issues. In my case the skipping was because my PC built in audio sucked and once I switched to a sound blast AE-5 my issues started to disappear. I know that’s not possible on console :/

Since no one knew, and Im hoping someone else who is in the same position as me, this will solve it for them. Astro TR mixamp works to control volume, or you can buy a cheapy audio hub like this from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T5BG7YK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I plugged the aux cord from line in to the mixamp, was getting a buzzing noise. So you NEED a ground loop, like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Set the audio hub or the TR mixamp as the default communications device in Windows, and now you can control incoming voice chat from Discord or whatever else. Keep in mind the G6 volume in through windows. So if you turn it up or down, voice chat will also increase or decrease. Hopefully someone else finds this helpful!

I've been using one of these for broadcasting bluetooth audio from my switch. It works pretty well. If you do that and get some persistent buzzing get a ground loop isolator.

It would be ideal if the Switch just had bluetooth audio to begin with, but this has been an okay solution for me so far.

I recommend one of these. They work great and let you control the music tracks, podcasts, audiobooks from the controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-T2GzbVJHKWSM

And you might need of these if you get a little bit of feedback like me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gV2Gzb37VFTSN

Yep, I have a nifty $20 Bluetooth adapter for my old car and it works very very well. My phone always connects as soon as I turn on the car. I do recommend getting the anti-feedback ground loop noise isolator thingy if you're using an aux port, though.

I'm getting a lot of static coming from my speakers. Too much to enjoy any music.

It's only happening when my preamp (Music Hall Mini) is plugged in (and turned on).

I'm using a U-Turn Orbit Plus as my record player.

Does anyone have any suggestion for how to eliminate the static?

I tried plugging in an Aux>RCA cable in to a ground loop isolator that I have, but the only thing it did was reduce the gain/maximum volume level. It did not help reduce the static.

The basic setup I'm working with is Turntable>RCA/RCA>Preamp>RCA/RCA>Speakers

I have no idea what I'm doing so any suggestions would be much appreciated - thanks!!

Car Charger, Maxboost 4.8A/24W 2 USB Smart Port Charger [Black] $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISGCAJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) $9.69

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bluetooth Adapter Receiver,URANT Car Kit Mini USB Wireless Audio Adapter Bluetooth Music Receiver & Adapter Home/Car Phone iPhone Stereo Speakers Headphones Car (AUX in) Music Sound System $10.97

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFWM8G9/ref=dp_prsubs_1

​

had this set up for years until I got a car that had a bluetooth stereo. quality was pretty good all things considered - the ground loop Isolator helped tremendously.

I recommend NOT using GameCapture to stream. As usual, the tier list goes:

I'm Just Getting Started: OBS Studio
I Want To Do Better: XSplit Personal
Time To Get Serious: Gameshow
Professional: XSplit Premium, Wirecast

XSplit will let you choose to play the audio from the xbox through your PC's main audio output.

Of course, the best way to do this is to route the audio output from your Xbox through the Aux input of an Astro Mixamp, remembering that if they're connected to the same power source you should use a $10 Ground Loop Isolator to avoid a mild buzzing sound. But don't worry, that's just for you and it doesn't come through to the stream.

I'm going to do a 2016 wrapup article detailing all this soon.

Depends on the type of headset you have.

For example: I have a logitech g933. It is a wireless one that uses a usb bluetooth dongle. On the top of the bluetooth dongle is an aux port, and there's an aux port on my monitor that I put smash on. Now in order to get audio for me, all I have to do is use an aux cable, plug it into my dongle, and then into my monitor, however you will hear a low buzz or hum.
In order to remove this, you need to plug your aux cable into a Ground Loop Isolator
That will remove the buzz and hum, and will make it so the audio you get from your monitor (the one you are playing smash on) is clear and clean.


That's just my headset though. Someone else did a handy guide on how they set it up, with pictures. https://imgur.com/gallery/xXDXM


Hope this helps

You could try clipping a ferrite core to the ends of the cable, it should help remove excess RF interference.

Although, you'd probably have better luck switching to Composite A/V cables (if possible).

It sounds like a ground loop. Does the buzzing/whine get louder as you turn up the volume?

If so, there are a few solutions:

1. Make sure the PC is properly grounded to the outlet. If you are using a surge protector, make sure the "GROUNDED" light is on (or the "NOT GROUNDED" light is off, depending on the model of surge protector).
   
2. Make sure the outlet is properly grounded. There are two ways to determine this. If you have a multimeter, just set the multimeter for 120V read, stick the black probe into the actual prong for the outlet and the red into the ground on the outlet. If the multimeter reads 120V, you're grounded. The other way involves removing the actual outlet from the wall and I won't give the directions for that since I'm not an electrician and I don't want you to die if you screw up.
   
3. Make sure the motherboard is properly grounded. Since you built the PC yourself, double check to see that you only installed the necessary standoffs and that you didn't miss any or add any extra ones.
   
   If none of the above options worked, you'll need to purchase a Ground Loop Isolator. Cheap and they work extremely well.

I added an aux port to my 2006 not too long ago. A ground loop isolator is a must otherwise you'll get a lot of background noise during acceleration and when you charge your device.

I got these parts:

Goliton aux cable for Mazda

3.5mm feed-thru panel mount jack

ground loop isolator

The combination works perfectly. I drilled a hole in the center between the cigarette lighter and the passenger airbag light. There is plenty of space behind it and the part is pretty cheap (less than $20) to buy used on ebay if I must return the car to stock configuration.

Most case manufactureres skimp out a bit on the front panel wiring. There are old forum posts from the Windows XP era about custom fixes, which, like you mentioned, involves foil. Rear audio panel is usually not [as] susceptible to electrical interference, though.
Edit- some ppl say that ferrite beads or a ferrite core should help reduce EMI

Sounds like a ground loop; I had a similar issue daisy-chaining some Astro Mixamps. Put something like this between your 3.5mm cable and your PC: PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator

Best of luck -- unwanted noise is terrible!

You can buy it here it’s like $40. You can get dual lightning or a lightning and aux like mine. Also if you charge from the car you may need one of these to keep the signal noise from the charger from going to the head unit. All in all it cost me like $150 with the mount and cables and in my opinion it’s worth it.

If the interference goes away when you unplug the USB from the DAC, yet the DAC is still hooked into the powered speakers, then you're hearing a ground loop. This is because you're grounding your equipment together through the analog 3.5mm cable to the DAC then USB to your PC.

I used to get this from plugging the 3.5mm headphone output from a phone into my line in on my Saffire DAC, then once I plugged in the USB to keep the battery charging on the phone, it would make a loop.



A couple thing may help you.

One is going with a dual balanced XLR with a 3.5mm adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/AxcessAbles-TRS18-DXLR402M-Stereo-Breakout-Audio/dp/B01AS5RXJ2/

or dual 1/4" TRS -
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP-153-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O3C/

(there are many variations of these out there).


The other option is to put a ground loop isolator in line with your analog unbalanced RCA signal:

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-Ground-Isolator-Noise-Filter/dp/B077Y5DLBB/


You could also try a USB filter (some have inputs for an external power supply) - https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Isolator-Digital-Isolation-Industrial/dp/B00XXPO4UG/

(Or even just getting a better USB cable with ferrite chokes)


Or of course, last resort - just get a cleaner, pro DAC, like a Focusrite Scarlett Solo
https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/

Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.

While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.

I have lot's of issues with EMI too, as you can probably tell. I do a lot of twitch streaming and I have 3 of these ground loop isolators in my system to eliminate that hum. I don't know how they work, but they definitely take care of that hum.

This is my streaming setup diagram. I have a ground look isolator in between my casting PC and the mixer, between my PS4's optical audio converter and the mixer, and between my mixer and my main computer's audio input. It completely silences any hum caused by EMI.

Yep, I have an idea if you're willing to spend $8 to rule it out.

You need to purchase a Ground Loop Noise Isolator which you can then try with each of your various devices.

If none of them exhibit static at that point, then you've determined that indeed there is some faulty grounding or shielding in the components of the phone. At that point it's time for a return to Google if you can under warranty.

If you don't have static with the one pair of headphones that tells me the components are solid in that pair. The other components may be the weak link but you need to rule out the phone first.

The ground loop noise isolator also has self evident uses wherever else you may have this problem. I use one in my car for example.

Good luck.

How are your power cords arranged? Is there anything overlapping? Sounds like some sort of interference. Not other turntables to test with?

Before sending it back for another out of warranty repair, you may want to try a ferrite ring or two. Amazon has them pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015RAZTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d0TYzbRYCKEEJ

Really? Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Loop-Noise-Isolator-Stereo-Systems-Audio-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505104449&sr=8-4&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

Definitely worth a try! Thanks for the tip.

as /u/pocketspoon has mentioned this subreddit is more headphone equipment.

However what you may want to look into a filter for your modmic. You could pick up something like an audio interface or a mixer to help assist with controlling gain and reducing electronic feed back but that can be fairly expensive.

I would a try a ground filter like this first.

no worries. I will say that this "issue" made me rethink my approach and I ended up routing all my outputs (via 3.5mm outs and 1 optical audio out) with voicemeeter and hooked them up to the streaming PC individually and was able to assign all audio as separate sources (discord, game & my mic) and it made for easier on the fly adjustments on streamlabs.

Good luck! if you do need the noise loop isolator, I bought 2 of these and they worked flawlessly. I'd try without it first as maybe you'll get lucky and your line-in to line-out (pc to pc) might not have any noise issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

So my new motherboard has some electrical interference in the rear audio ports only. It’s minor and it happens when I move mouse and the windows around.

Anyway I already went through hours of troubleshooting, I was wondering if something like this would help.

If not, is the “creative sound blaster audigy FX” a decent sound card? It’s a bit more than I want to spend but I just want to make sure this’ll do the job for music, gaming, movies etc.

I have sennheiser hd 280 pro if it matters.

I have JBL305s which I use straight from my computer with a line isolator. The one I have is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=line+isolator&qid=1574190220&sr=8-1

A DAC would give me a physical volume control which would be handy sometimes - but I dont know that it would give me any better sound quality. It's basically processing the sound in the same way that your computer is already doing, but with the advantage of doing it externally from your computer and away from all the other electrical parts inside the computer that might interfere with it.

A decent DAC is $100+. So personally I would just try the speakers first, then see if you need a line isolator, then see you if need a DAC.

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

Sometimes you can clean that up with a magnet around the aux plug, but your best bet is a ground loop isolator.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

I do hear a difference between PC and AMP/DAC. Not a massive one, but still. Bigger issue is volume. Even at max volume levels everywhere X2's still sound pretty quiet for me.

​

I'm not sure what is this good for exactly, but what about this thing called Ground Loop Noise Isolator? https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Is this something that can help here?

You can also get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JUOWB2Q

I actually spent a fair amount of time looking for a grounded USB charger like the one you linked, but didn't come across it. Thanks for linking it; I'll give it a shot with another Dot and speaker combo.

easiest quick fix is to add a stack of snap on ferrite cores to it's power cable and your sensitive electronics cords. If that helps, then it was RFI. If it doesn't, then maybe the machine is actually causing surges or something more serious.

eg. https://www.amazon.ca/Pieces-Clip-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B07DLD2LNW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=snap+on+ferrite&qid=1556121578&s=gateway&sr=8-1

just search for "snap on ferrite". Get some that fit your power cord.

Other things to check: does a regular incandecent lightbulb on the same circuit as the sewing machine show any brightness variation?

But, this is a problem in the machine. There exist sewing machine repair people even now. If it's a cherished machine, getting it fixed while servicemen still exist is a good idea. You don't want a shock or fire hazard. If it's a newer machine, junk it and replace. New sewing machines come with fancy features, but a shorter service life.

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4

Product descriptionPackage included: 20 * cable clips (with 5 different size included) for cord with 3/ 5/ 7/ 9/ 13 mm inner diameter

Helps reduce EMI on AC power lines. Black plastic enclosed ferrite core for 5 mm AC power cords. **Great for cutting noise on USB, firewire, phone, power cord, coaxial, audio, video cables, etc.**This rectangle ferrite Bead can be widely used in a variety of Data cables, USB cable, telephone line, network line to **shield external electromagnetic interference.**Easy to install with double snap clips; Reduce electro-magnetic interference and improve signal integrity. Easy structure and convenient installation. Just clip it on and you will get clearer signal and faster data transmission.

You can get bulbs that fit. They have an LED driver that the wiring harness plugs into. As far as brands, I've got no advice. I bought mine for cheap from some local guy that runs his business out of his house and I can't remember the brand.

Once your install is finished, you're going to want to check the beam alignment and height. You're also probably going to want to put ferrite cores around the wires as close to the LED drivers as feasible, or you'll get electromagnetic interference and your radio will play mostly static.

If you do your turn signals, you're going to need a load resistor (8 ohm, I think) in parallel with your lights so that you don't get a rapid blink.

Example of ferrite cores: https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=17U3NAHEZG6Q5&keywords=ferrite+beads+snap+on&qid=1557170122&s=gateway&sprefix=ferrite+&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2C3AMRQC5GI7N

I purchased this one, and it has fixed the issue. Also, I would recommend getting a better car charger as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019393MV2&pd_rd_r=CGG7HFN298GVGCX0812J&pd_rd_w=DSl7T&pd_rd_wg=seEpH&psc=1&refRID=CGG7HFN298GVGCX0812J

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Charger-Android-Devices-Output/dp/B00IEFXDO8/ref=sr_1_6?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1484669050&sr=1-6&keywords=car+charger

Anyway you can bypass VGA? Or try another VGA cable, perhaps one with bigger chokes? (that lump at each end)

​

In theory, you could just buy a pack (pick the right diameter!) https://www.amazon.com/stardrift-10-Pack-Diameter-Suppressor-Industrial/dp/B015RDPNTW

​

But I honestly have no idea how effective any of these are. Keeping the signal digital through the whole path is the best option.

Get a Bluetooth adapter for the aforementioned aux port. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_nMpWBPsncdEok
This is one that supports aptx, works well, has pass through cig lighter cord with USB port built in so you don't need to worry about battery. Might want to get this as well, depending on how well your stereo is grounded. I experienced weird buzzing but my aux jack is soldered (by me) to my tape input, so I'm not surprised there was issues. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_GwFAL9sbYR2Z4

Anyway that's like $40 to turn your car stereo into fancy and not have to fuck with the aux cables again (which for me were always wearing out anyway.)

>Shouldn't wireless audio be noise free? I figure that it should be immune to noise since the audio is digital.

No! You might wanna google that... TL;DR: Wireless=Interference=Noise

And no, you don't need a mixer board. Since i'm assuming you're using a pc/mac, an external sound card will do.
You might wanna troubleshoot first before making any kind of purchase. You can start by plugin the monitors in different sockets around the house, or taking the monitors to a friends house and see if the noise persists. If it does, this might help: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=lp_10981591_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500471154&sr=1-1

My recommendation would be an external soundcard with balanced outputs (~$150-$200)

Connecting all of your devices to the same circuit may eliminate or lessen the problem. A ground loop isolator may solve the problem. https://www.amazon.com/REIIE-Ground-Isolator-Bluetooth-System/dp/B01JUOWB2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494183344&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1 Connecting your devices optically if possible is a pretty fool-proof way of solving the issue. Here's a good video to help you understand what's happening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GS-6jBk9YPM

I have and what you need is one of these in line with the headphone end. Best solution I have found.

I actually think this is a common issue.
You need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Ground-Loop-Noise-Isolator-Stereo-Systems-Audio-Systems-Included/dp/B01L1NP7YI


EDIT: yeah, we posted the same product. lol

I've had this issue with my phone as well as a bluetooth device I bought (the one in my car died). What you need is a ground loop noise isolator. This is the one I got and it removed the noise for my bluetooth device and phone. Hope it helps!

Some ways to troubleshoot audio issues is ensure that your Focusrite and your streaming PC are plugged into the same power source (Differing power sources can cause line noise), your XLR cable could be shitty, your audio device could be failing, the gain on your Focusrite Scarlett could be too high, the audio device settings could be crappy.

​

One last thing it could be is to go into SLOBS, then right click your microphone setting, then see if there is a GAIN filter that is applied. Once I accidentally added a GAIN filter while messing around to my microphone in SLOBS and it was causing issues. The only filters your microphone should have is a Noise Suppression and a Noise Gate Filter (Or Alternatively a VST filter if you're really savvy).

​

If it's a wiring issue then:

Ground Loop Isolator should solve your problem. It's likely your motherboard audio device causing issues. A 3.5mm input into your PC is getting line noise. Ground Loop Isolators are super cheap, you can order them on Amazon or go to a local audio store and pick one up for <$10.

This is what I use for the inputs into my streaming PC that have this noise you're referring too (Has many ways it can be caused), it eliminates it without any noticeable reduction in audio quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1557352537&s=gateway&sr=8-3

I run the exact same setup. For some reason an amp causes a lot of static on the mic.

Something like this can help. Have it connected between your cans and your amp. It will reduce the volume output, but helps solve the static issue. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The way I did my setup was to run a 3.5mm aux cable from my gaming pc’s green stereo drive port on the back of the motherboard into a grounded loop noise isolator like this one to help the popping and static when transitioning from digital to analog,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sjtZBb6M2T7WA


Then I ran the 3.5mm end of the ground loop into the red microphone port on the back of my streaming pc. That way I could go into my Sound Settings and look at my recording devices and there should be a new input there from your gaming computer. Go into the properties and there should be a tick box for your streaming pc to always listen to your gaming pc and output it through your streaming pc.

That way I only had one set of speakers listening to both PCs, and I could use the new recording device as a sound input in Elgato Sound Control in OBS to stream the sound from my gaming pc and listen to it at the same time.

It might sound confusing but the cables and everything are relatively cheap.

I’m at work but if you need more help I’ll draw a layout for you later if you want.

The Wirecutter has a good round up of bluetooth car kits. Saves heaps of research.

My criteria:

• Uses USB for power, not a cigarette lighter hard wired (allows for dual/tri usb chargers)
  
• Supports APT-X and AAC if possible
  
• Play/Pause and Skip
  
• Can trigger Google Now
  
• Clear audio for handsfree phone calls
  
• Practical/well designed/not too large.
  
  I got the Himbox HB-01, while it doesn't support APT-X the new one does, and the stock stereo is probably the limiting factor in sound quality. To get google now working, i installed an app "BT Gnow". The New HB-01+ i believe would resolve both apt-x and google now out of the box.
  
  Note when you have a device such a phone or bluetooth car kit connected to both aux and usb, you may get noise in some vehicles. It varies by device and by vehicle. While in my car the noise is minimal, I still use a ground loop isolator to eliminate it entirely. You'll notice that the wirecutter mentions the newer HB-01+ has a whine, i'd wager that this may be eliminated with a ground loop isolator.

I use a ground loop isolator like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XQYN77L/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works perfectly.

Thanks for the detailed response! I have the headset powered through the TV which has a USB port. The controller is plugged into the Xbox. I have tried plugging in the headset through different power sources, USB, my laptop, the wall, etc. There is still a humming that comes from the headset being plugged into the controller. I am going to purchase this. Do you think it will help?

Yes. I've had this problem.

You may need to buy a specific device to solve this issue.

Here is more info:
https://www.reddit.com/r/NintendoSwitch/comments/5yhpfl/switch_making_unbearable_buzzing_noise_through/

I bought the cable it recommends and it solved the problem entirely. :)

I have been able to do it and would be happy to share my experience with you to save you the pain of my research...

I am using this sound card that comes with cronusmax which I plug into my ps4
https://shop.cronusmax.com/external-usb-sound-card.html


I have this trss audio splitter plugged into said sound card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FB8LCQ7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


There was a ton of ground loop feed back... so i had to get 2 of these plugged into the split mic and headphone ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


then plug one end into your computers microphone (ps4 audio out goes into pc mic in)


and the other end.. (ps4 audio in) goes into your pc's audio out...


for control of the audio im using voice meeter and voice mod... My headset is a wireless ps4 platinum headset with the usb plugged into the computer.. and I use a normal physical microphone rather than the platinum headset mic .. I havean old launchpad midi controller used for muting and various audio effects.

Could be a ground loop. Does your power strip have proper grounding? Try plugging your speakers into different outlets (i.e. not through the power strip that also contains your PC).

How high is the gain on your speakers? You should max out your PC's software volume control and lower the gain on your speakers.

If none of that works, you could try a ground loop isolator

Yup, anything MIDI capable will - I use my MicroKorg to play everything I own.

One thing you might need with the Craft is a ground loop isolator like this if you power it by usb: https://www.amazon.com.au/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=asc_df_B019393MV2/?tag=googleshopmob-22&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341774517583&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9231468523261452727&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9071459&hvtargid=pla-314762789448&psc=1

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.ca/PAC-Ground-Isolator-3-5-Applications/dp/B001EAQTRI

or

https://www.amazon.ca/HIRALIY-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B01GJHEA9O/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491973393&sr=1-1&keywords=ground+noise+isolator

Would I plug this in before the Y-Adapter then the Y-adapter into the ports? Or would I plug this into one of the ends from the Y-Adapter?

Do you know why it's happening with my microphone? Is this a common issue with them?

Ty

I just bought this one and I really love it. But you likely will need to purchase a ground loop noise isolater to prevent that high-pitched wheeze you get when you plug something into your car.

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You could also get one for the 1/4in jack instead, mine was $8 on amazon and works great:
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_aw_lpo_107_bs_tr_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G2TS68BSH7H411W1NAR9

It's one of these guys https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Here is how they work http://www.tech-faq.com/ground-loop-isolator.html

If you pick one up off amazon to try and it doesn't work their return policy is great for these purposes.

Hello,

I recently bought the Micca PB42x and am having some problems that perhaps could be fixed. The speaker which contains the internal amp is making a whisling/whining sound whenever it is on. It doesn't matter if I have audio playing, nor does the volume of the audio affect it. I have it connected via the 3.5mm cable that came with it and the two speakers are joined via the speaker wire that came with it.

My current set-up is not ideal (I will take and upload pictures after work). I think that I might be getting some noise or perhaps there is a ground loop somewhere. I purchased this but I did not notice any noticeable difference, not even a little bit. Maybe the ground loop isolator I bought is faulty or I attempted to fix something that wasn't the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just thought of something else... What about Bluetooth? Have you paired your Echo with something that could be transmitting to it? Could someone else have paired with it who is nearby when you hear the voice(s)?

Going back to potential RFI, I'm with /u/moronmonday526. Put a ferrite or two on the power cord and see if it helps. Also, try a different outlet in a different room.

If you have a battery base, you could just, of course, unplug the AC adapter and confirm/rule out that as a source (basically acting as an antenna).

FWIW, I haven't had any RFI with either the Echo or Google Home when I transmit (I'm one of the ham radio guys moronmonday mentioned). That said, we hams tend to be good at tracking down RFI and most hams are willing to lend a hand to help out a neighbor. Have any around you could call on? I doubt his/her radio is getting into your Echo from your description, but they can lend a hand in sniffing out the offending source if it is RFI.

Edit: fix link

To deal with the noise I use a ground loop isolator on both OP devices when recording to DAW, removes most of the noise, I bought this one (out of stock now) but I'm sure others will work just as well;

​

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This looks like very strong switching power supply noise. It could be coupled into the SDR via the USB cable or received directly via the antenna. Where and what is the antenna in your scenario? Try turning off any number of electronics in the vicinity to see if it is a particular power supply. I use a USB cable with a built-in ferrite choke on it, and use extensions to get the SDR away from the PC. Getting the antenna away from the SDR will also help if the problem is coming via the USB cable. For lots of other wires like keyboard, mice, monitors, etc. I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E5E5IY4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Im pretty sure ground loop isolation is going to be the right answer. EDIT - especially since you say it works fine with headphones

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Here's another one that works well and is cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/

I have 2013 Cruze with Bluetooth phone support but no audio. I use a dongle similar to this one along with this (cuts out humming noise). Setup works great, music runs through the adapter and phone calls come in through the car's built in Bluetooth. My OG XL Pixel auto connects to both when I start my car.

If can judge the noise is caused by ground loop power supply ,I recommend this device to eliminate the noise ,I tried it ,it is cost less than $8 and it is very useful .
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B019FC6ZQQ

If you have an aux jack, this bluetooth adapter works great. I've been using it for almost a year and a half. It automatically connects to my phone when I turn on the car.

https://www.amazon.com/Firefly-Bluetooth-Receiver-Smallest-Streaming/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=sxts_kp?keywords=tunai+firefly&pd_rd_i=B01HDO66NK&pd_rd_r=3efc7bef-166a-49d6-b921-780054c6f84f&pd_rd_w=QnB0O&pd_rd_wg=Dmgk9&pf_rd_p=81d99bd4-f902-4b23-8928-b05d50fd5b3c&pf_rd_r=T1MRKNKD61ZMDJ10NPZ0&qid=1568747925&s=gateway

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You'll likely also need a ground loop isolator to eliminate noise.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1568748037&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You hear a loud buzz in the recordings? Sounds like a simple ground loop issue. PS4 is not grounded, PCs are. When you connect an analog cable in between them, it causes a ground loop which causes buzzing.

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If I'm correct in my assumptions, there are 2 solutions to this:

1. If your aux cable is connected to your PS4 controller, make sure it's wireless. If the PS4 controller is plugged into the PS4 via USB it will pass through the ground loop.
   
2. If wireless controller isn't an option, or the aux cable is plugged into the PS4 itself using some sort of HDMI audio extractor, you'd simply need a ground loop isolator - they're 10 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1556058688&s=gateway&sr=8-3

You want the USB and optical cable from the mixamp to go to your Xbox. Configure the mixamp first with the mixamp plugged in via USB to the PC and make it so the stream port only outputs the party chat.

Once configure plug the USB back into the Xbox. Then you want a cable going from the headphone or out audio port on your PC into the aux port on the mixamp.

This will give you Xbox audio and party chat output to your capture card while also allowing you to hear PC audio.

You may have to get a ground loop isolator for the aux cable though as you may get a humming noise Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The knivio bluetooth is a good call, ive had mine for almost a year now which works perfectly and have done exactly what you want to do. What i used was an Add a circuit and then wired a new cig socket to the add a circuit i bought form autozone. Now it will auto connect and turn on only when the key is switched to acc position when connected to the right fuse, typically rap, ign, with that specific size fuse. Also i just hid the extra socket under the dash. Also if you do end up getting a noticeable noise/interference which i highly doubt use this ground loop isolator.

I might've already found one which I would've tried if it came to it.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

Basically repeating this.

But please let me know if it works for you! :)

You can actually pick up a ground loop isolator and just tuck it away under the dash or something. I have one on my car and it works great. Heres one from Amazon for $9 with Prime.

I've just bought Takstar 82 PRO and I'm liking them so far. However, I have an issue when I connect those headphones to my old Technics amplifier (SU-V550, from the 80's). I hear a constant white noise when no audio is playing. The white noise volume increase with the volume knob, it's not audible when I play mp3s or flac or during movies (and youtube). Didn't have this problem whith my and cheaper Sennheiser HD201.

How do I fix it? Is an headphone amp the only way?

edit: could something like This solve my issue? Or does it make the sound worse?

If you want to use in game voice chat with your stream hearing all of the audio, you will need a few things:


Splitter - This splitter is the only one I found that correctly splits the Mic line from the Headset line. This will plug directly into the Switch, then you'll plug your headset into the jack with the mic, and the other jack will be a 3.5mm line going into the Elgato.

Ground Loop Isolator - The splitter is going to create an audio loop buzzing noise, you'll need this to isolate that and keep the audio clean. This will go between the splitter and the Elgato.

3.5mm Cable - If you don't already have one, you'll need one of these to link the Switch to the Elgato.

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That is the only way I was able to use in game voice chat while streaming. Currently I just use Discord to chat through the PC, and send the Switch audio to the PC as well so it all goes to the stream. However, if you want to use in game voice chat you'll need to do the above.

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So I have been running into something similar with my E46. I found that when my iPhone isn't plugged in to power, it works fine. But when I have my phone plugged in it will work, then it will fail switching back to radio after sometime and act as if the AUX doesn't exist when trying to select the mode (just goes between Radio and CD).

I found this online, again, not your car but could be of assistance BMW CCA, basically what I believe I am experiencing is a Ground Loop fault. I will be ordering this part Ground Loop Noise Isolator once I finish testing with the phone plugged in and then unplugged replicating the issue to be sure. But after searching many different forums, finding the same symptoms pointing to this same issue, I am really thinking this is the issue I am having, I will test again with the device before installing it... I just don't know how I am going to hide that bulky thing in the dash.

I hope that helps! Post back with any findings!

Do you have a Magnet for the power cable? Sometimes they give some with the TV. It helps for times when there’s interference.
https://www.amazon.com/BCQLI-Detachable-Shielding-Interference-Improving/dp/B0775V3QN3
These might help.

There's also ground loop isolators, what do you think of them?

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=pd_sim_auto_18?ie=UTF8&refRID=1M93G0HTVE1NX2EXVBE7

I got this awhile ago and it's works pretty well.

generally you want to use the ac97 audio for the vm, which still has the occasional crackle (not bad, useable/playable), but a better solution is to get a cheap usb sound card, pass it to the vm, and use a 3.5mm audio cable to send the signal from it to the audio line-in(usually colored blue) on your system, then listen to the line-in via loopback on pulseaudio. you may also need a ground loop isolator:

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527403494&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=3.5mm+noise+filter&psc=1

another note when using the ac97 audio is youll have to install the drivers in compatibility mode as win10 does not have drivers for it

Hey, I've had the same problem with this phone and others. If I use the aux out on the dock without power I get fine sound, but when I plug it in the quality drops. If I charge with the port on the phone the audio is better. Apparently, a ground loop isolater can fix the issue, but I haven't tried. If you use the dock a lot, it might be worth it to try the isolater.

This is a fairly common thing. You can attach ferrite beads to your headphones to mitigate this fairly easily.

Typically you would see a single bead installed at the base of the cable near the plug, but you may need to either install more further up or loop the wire through the same bead multiple times if it doesn't stop the music the first time. It also can't hurt to attach ferrite beads to all your cables on your computer/tv as well. Heck I ferrited my network cables (not that that helped me in my situation).

I have 3 boutiques on a hub, I use these to eliminate noise. They work perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wlV6BbMD2CMZ8

I had the same exact problem. The speakers plugged into my sound card would produce this awful coil whine that was terrible while playing WoW or Marvel Heroes. I built a new PC and the sound stopped whenever I used the front headphones jack, but the back still produced this issue.

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I no longer have the coil whine coming out of my speakers/headphones. Pretty sure any ground loop isolator would work.

Follow up to all of this, maybe someone stumbles across this thread eventually.

So the FX send output works, I connected it to my PC with a cable and a buzz box.

It is not mix minus, meaning I have the mic separately and the other output is everything I hear (PC audio + microphone).

Surprising to me was that the FX nob functions as gain for the FX send output. Meaning if I have it at 10 the signal is all distorted and if I have it a 1, I still get a clear output just more quiet.

Currently I have it at 3, that way its the same level as my voice using the stereo output.

This did fix my discord problem which is great.

A lot of noise here. I recommend this thing, that I found in a bunch of reddit threads and it helps me a lot with my OP-1 noise reduction, when I record it directly to my soundcard

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

First, you probably don't need the gain set to 10 on the monitors. Try reducing it to 0, set the PC to 100% and then slowly increase the gain on the monitors to about as loud as you would ever want it. This helps attenuate any noise induced into the signal picked up along the way.

Next, try plugging the monitors into the same power strip as the PC to reduce any ground potential between the devices.

Finally, if the above did not help enough you will want to isolate the ground between the two devices. The cheapest way to do this safely is with a line level isolator like this. They however have been known to affect the sound quality a bit since they add a cheap transformer in the signal path to block any DC on the line.

If you are still having this problem I can not recommend getting a Ground Loop isolator enough.

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Amazon Link

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It creates an isolation point which breaks ground loops (the cause of the interference) this thing is pretty much a $10 get out of jail free card for tons of audio quirks.

Shit I forgot to give an update. Update: I ordered this one off of amazon and it works perfectly, I had my concerns because it was only 10 bucks, but it works. Crystal clear music. Now let's just see how far it's going to last.

tbh it is probably easier for me to just buy this one on amazon and get it delivered to me if you think that is the type of device I'm looking for?or is it something else? I have prime so I get it within a couple days and I can return it if I don't need it.

I used this one and it worked pretty fine iirc:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2

Yeah. You'll want to get one of these cables, and go from your headphone port to either channel 5/6 or channel 7/8. Red goes in Right, black in left.
You will also probably need a ground loop isolater. Something like this one. Otherwise you may hear some static over the wires.

For my setup I use a male to male 3.5mm cable to plug my Switch into my PC's line in port. That way you get both the game audio and Discord audio through the same headset. Also had to use a ground loop isolator to get rid of some noise, but now it works beautifully.

These are the the ones I bought, but there are a million to choose from:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0171PQLB8/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NO73Q84/

Try picking up a ground loop isolator from amazon. I use this one and it works great Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Sure thing! It's a "ground loop noise isolator" and the price has dropped!

• https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI
  
  Looks like they're some "cooler" looking ones now.

you guessed right, it is electrical interference. you probably already have it caused by your car's electronics and the usb cable is just a next source.

i have this one and it works great. i actually have it plugged into a bluetooth dealy since my car doesn't have bluetooth.

reviews exaggerate sound quality issues like quieter or low bass. i mean, turn it up or turn up your bass.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

This is probably caused by poor shielding. Grab something like this from Amazon (just make sure you get the right size) and that might help. No guarantee though.

ground loop isolator

I was doing a ham radio project and all was well until I placed the radio on the charger and I got a crazy hum. Putting this inline resolved all the issues. Best $8 I've ever spent.

You should ask people on amazon if it gets rid of ESD. Some DACs will enhance audio while not eliminating interference. You might buy it and find that you will need something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Isolator-Digital-Isolation-Industrial/dp/B00XXPO4UG/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+static+filter&qid=1564536816&s=gateway&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/VSKEY-Anti-interference-Telephones-Equipment-Appliances/dp/B077Q6T1XG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=usb+static+filter&qid=1564536816&s=gateway&sr=8-3

It completely depends on whether or not the ESD only affects your 3.5mm jacks. I use the X470 Gamin Aorus motherboard which has dedicated DAC-Up ports for isolation.

You can probably use a ground loop isolator to keep the DC voltage away from your guitar.

Ordinarily, a computer microphone is not designed for a guitar, but can be used with one. Hope this works for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Hands-Free-Bluetooth-CarAudio-Connect/dp/B004CLYJ2I

I used this guy for that and it was great. I stuck the little puck over the cigarette lighter hole and ran the wiring under the console and up into the storage compartment to connect to the 12V and aux there. You'll need a ground loop isolator as well otherwise as you RWC you'll hear alternator whine, something like

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/

Best way is to just plug in an audio cable from your switch into the blue line-in port on your PC. I've been doing this since the switch came out.

You do need a ground loop isolator though, otherwise you only get loud static because of interference coming from the dock.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1573383821&sr=8-3

Yes I do have a cartridge copy but I am sure it is the 3.5mm cord since it only happens when I use that (I have tried a few cords) thinking about trying this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L1NP7YI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

after searching Google, it seems it's a widespread problem.. perhaps something like this noise filter can help

SoundBot SB363 3.5mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator Adapter Remover[Buzzing Eliminator Hissing Filter] Speaker/Car Audio Stereo System/Bluetooth Adapter Receiver/Car Kit/Home Audio w/Built-in AUX Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071W65PPC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T0wZDbP61YN1S

only the RCA inputs inputs in my G35x Sedan from 2007. So I use this combo:

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https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RH29CJO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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https://smile.amazon.com/SoundBot-Isolator-Eliminator-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B071W65PPC/ref=ya_od_pd_dx_mr_1/140-0226181-9233445?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B071W65PPC&pd_rd_r=b3dc9685-b372-47b6-ac4f-9cab6eb0cb8b&pd_rd_w=9sXj9&pd_rd_wg=j2xAt&psc=1&refRID=BN0W932BC8M70YNAT492

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and

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https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XC5KWJN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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No steering wheel controls so all control comes from the phone. But it works well and sounds good.

I HAVE THE SOLUTION


https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542998101&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator


2005 cooper s, r53, 70k miles.
Replaced my oem aux cable, with another oem (through from ebay) because my original one developed a short and would cut left audio out completely, super annoying.


I unplugged the old, plugged in the new and it showed up just fine. Tested it with music and all good. Put everything back together and drove to cumbys and it worked. Next morning, start navigation and music all good, then go to plug my phone into power and the aux disconnects. I almost always have my phone plugged in when in the car, so the aux connection was really almost never on. searched around on nam, or asked fbook forum and discovered someone else who had similar problem with the aux magically disappearing.


Something with the ground for the radio and the cig lighter being on the same circuit, or idk. But i tested it again knowing what to look for and yeah, everytime i plugged my phone into power (not just the cig lighter, but the plug into my phone) the aux would disappear from the radio options.


adding a ground loop isolator to the aux cable completely fixed it for me.

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

I had a similar issue and got one of these. Worked perfect. Not as much macgyver of course...

Yeah, essentialy you'd use headphone or line out to a cable like this. Then use another cable like that from the mixer to the PC. You might need a ground loop isolator like this to eliminate any hum coming from the PCs.

I realize now this may have been what you were talking about before. I was up super late and my reading comprehension may have been suffering. For some reason I thought you were going to run both PCs into a splitter and then into the mixer. TL;DR I'm dumb.

Oh, it requires an aux port and the USB is for power. I used this one and was completely satisfied.

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VL3PzbN4X230Q

with this to prevent feedback noise, it really helped!!: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AM3PzbDZEMPVP

For anyone in the US - I have about 3 of these and work really well!

Amazon US - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

culprit is likely the cable/wire that feeds into your powered speakers. keep this very short. If that doesn't help, pick up these http://amzn.to/2wKQ7vB and clip to the wires as close to the speaker inputs as possible. Helps even more if yu can loop the wire through the beads like this: https://www.quantumbalancing.com/images/cp04.jpg

This is the correct answer. I got this one from Amazon for $12. Sounds much better now.

The static noise might be due to poor isolation between the power and audio lines in the Bluetooth unit--I had the same issue with mine. The solution was to buy a grounding unit like this one that sits inline on the audio cable. Worked like a champ, and the cable on it is long enough that I can put the whole thing out of sight.

>S-Video consists of two video components, luma and chroma. The checkerboard pattern you often see with poorly-built cabling is caused by the chroma component not being fully separated from the luma component and causing interference. Sounds like your thinner cable is better than your thicker one.


So is this caused by a lack of shielding or the lack of a ferrite bead?


If it's the lack of a ferrite bead, would something like this fix the problem?


> Incidentally, the yellow wire is not needed for S-Video and is frequently omitted entirely from S-Video cables. You should probably leave it disconnected.


Yeah I was wondering about that... Good to know.

Well, that fixed it.. Although I don't want to run this giant extension cable, so maybe get something like this http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI ?

amazon? ebay?

link link

I'm not sure this will solve it 100% but it's worth a try. If not return it or go to a shop near you and ask for this and if its possible to test it out and return it.

That should be fine. It's possible to find it as a single cable too:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Pro-PCBL43FT6-Stereo-Y-Cable-Adapter/dp/B004G87FLY/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358512&sr=1-16

You may find you get a lot of hum or buzz, more than you do listening to the PC alone. This is probably caused by a difference in the ground between the PC and mixer. These sorts of devices can then be a very helpful addition:

http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLGI35T-8-Inch-Stereo-Isolator/dp/B004HJ35F2/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358835&sr=1-8&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

http://www.amazon.com/Hosa-HEM-462-Eliminator-Audio-Integration/dp/B0042ZVZZ8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369358647&sr=1-1&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

One of these takes care of that problem nicely.

If true the OP can work around it by installing an input transformer between the source and the headphone amplifier. This will break the unwanted ground short.

edit- like (this one)