Reddit mentions: The best car audio speakers & subwoofers

Alright here we go:

1. DSP's: I've only had experence with a rockford 3sixty.2, but even with that i say that processed audio is exponentially better. That being said, here is what i've gathered are the best DSP's from r/carav. The jbl ms8 which is discontinued but you can find good deals on ebay. The Rockford 3sixty.3 which i personally recommend; and finally the miniDSP with everything added in. You will definitely need some tutorials on EQ'ng and RTA software if you plan on installing these yourself.
   
   
2. Regarding components, you have to go to a audio shop to really get a feel for what you like. Are you fine with mid level components or the audiophile grade? for great mid level i recommend Hertz DSK. For audiophile grade i would go for Morel Tempo's. the coaxials in the rear doors are less important. You can go for some cheaper pioneers which will do the job and still sound good, or find some matching coaxials to your components if you wish.
   
   
3. Go for a 4 channel + a monoblock. I would choose this Cadence D100.4 and a Zapco 1000W rms monoblock. I hope your electrical is decent. If you wish to spend a little extra you can look into a HO alternator or possibly just a bigger audio battery such as XSpower, Kinetik, or Shuriken.
   
   
4. Two tens would be good, but a single twelve would take up less space and not require as much power which is always good. I would get a single Fi SSD which is great for either sealed or ported enclosures. If you want tight bass get a sealed enclosure, if you want to bump hard get a ported box built to specs. Either way, don't buy a prefab, get it custom made.
   
   
5. SOUND DAMPEN EVERYTHING. Dynamat is great and i use it, but many r/carav enthusiasts go for Noico which is also butyl rubber dampener which is much more cost effective. Do your doors, rear deck, and trunk.
   
   overall it should be: $1,880 with everything added in, the most expensive component set, and wire harness. You could spend the extra little bit on a replacement starter battery geared towards audio (the brands i recommended). You will need to double check, but from what i found your alternator outputs 130A, and it should be able to handle up to 1200W comfortably. Set your gains accordingly with a multimeter.
   
   
   Regarding the install, you can do it yourself but it will take much longer than you think it will. With determination and plenty of video tutorials or outside help you can finish it very well. If taking off your cars panels, electrical work, and woodwork/drilling sound daunting, get a professional to install. It can be anywhere from $400-1000 extra depending on what you have them do (component install, DSP programming, sound deadending, amp wiring and install). You can get discounts on labor if you buy stuff from them, so again, please do listen to setups from your local audio shops.

Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.

> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68

> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4

> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62

> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109

> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103

> Amp kit. ~ $33

>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)

>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

and

>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.

>Here is some that fit your truck;

>Head Unit

>Door SPeakers

>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.


>Total of about $220.

I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?

Do you want it to get loud or do you care about sound quality(staging and imaging)? Aftermarket speakers will definitely sound better but you could lose midbass due to the fact that they are optimized for using an amp and the factory speakers most likely have some filtering involved to boost the bottom end. You can overcome this with an amp and also doing some sound deadening.

Component sets are definitely a better option compared to money spent on Coaxials. You can get a $500 set of components that sound great or a $200 set of components and do some treatments and have an awesome set up.

With $500 to spend I would use half for speaker and the rest on deadening. I personally like Image Dynamics or Morelyou can get great sets of those around the $200 mark. You can do a modest amp. Something like the Zapco. then spend the rest on fastrings and deadener. You dont have to go to the nth degree with deadener but adding some CLV and sealing up the holes will go along ways.

I personally like the SPR-60C set from Alpine, about $150 and I think the Pioneer digital amp line is an outstanding value. The GM-D1004 looks like a great match with power to spare for only $100 street. It's twice as powerful as the Alpine power pack for the same money or less.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GMD1004-45X4-Compact-Class/dp/B00O8B7BXQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417587005&sr=1-2&keywords=gm-d1004#productDetails

I use a similar setup, with my amp being pretty much the same except older and without the slick form factor. Feeding 200W RMS into each side gives me the ability to extract all the speakers are capable of delivering, which is sufficient for even top down at highway speeds and a reasonable amount of bass for the speaker size without a sub. The extra power gives you options. You can get pretty bassy if you're not cranking it, or you can get pretty loud with less bass. You're not lacking on the power to do so, only the physical limitations of the speaker. You will not be disappointed for $250 combined!

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

• Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
  
  
• You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
  
  
• Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
  
  
• Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
  
  
• Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
  
  
• Amp kit. ~ $33
  
  And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
  
  Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

Thanks for your help, I have definitely learned a lot. I am slowly coming out of the rabbit hole of audio setups and facing reality. I went all crazy looking at DPSs and LOC and powerful amplifiers and it was fun but it was also overwhelming. In reality I don't need "superb" sound, I would be satisfied with "fairLy good".So I have come down to reality and now I am thinking about the below setup based around the Kicker Key amp. Im thinking 45W should be plenty of power compared to stock and also the hands free DSP setup is gonna be a godsend. I think I found a decent deal on older model Infinity speakers below.

​

{FRONT & TWEETER} (planning to use the passive crossover for the tweeters)Infinity REF-6522EX Shallow-Mount 6-1/2 Inch Coaxial Car Speakers ($43.99)https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FUZV7ZG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1

{BACK}Infinity REF6520CX 2-Way Component System ( With Edge-Driven Textile Tweeters) ($83.95 )https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E62D7BQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1M2AR6046TFJG&psc=1

{AMP} (The speakers are 3 ohm, though the Kicker Amp is 4 ohms, but based on other threads it should be all right)Kicker KEY180.4 ($199.99)https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206KEY1804/Kicker-KEY180-4.html

{AMP WIRING KIT} ($14.99)Crutchfield CK12https://www.crutchfield.com/p_007CK12/Crutchfield-CK12.html

{SPEAKER BRACKETS} (not sure if I really need these as it says that I will need to drill new holes for the screws anyway)Scosche SAC-656 Multipurpose Speaker Mounting Brackets (2 x 12.99)https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SAC656/Scosche-SAC-656-Multipurpose-Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html

{SPEAKER HARNESS} (2 x 9.99)Metra 72-7300 Speaker Wiring Harnesseshttps://www.crutchfield.com/p_120727300/Metra-72-7300-Speaker-Wiring-Harnesses.html

{SUBWOOFER} ??(I am yet to look - though I figured I can do this in two steps)

Total $388.88 + tax

​

Questions:- What do you think?- I should still be able to control the volume using the stock HU volume knob correct?
-What dampening do you recommend as a basic thing while I have the car open?

First polyfil (pillow stuffing) the sound bar. Can be found in any sewing/craft section or store and is cheap. Do not pack too dense. You unscrew the speakers and stuff the fill on the space behind them. This will give more depth to your sound.

Kicker makes a direct fit replacement for you. I went with an Infiniti setup, they fit, but I had to add my own mounting holes. It is easy, but, direct fit is easier.
You can always spend more but these will get you in the door.

Soundbar: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SUO5QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453788771&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=jeep+kicker+speaker+upgrade&dpPl=1&dpID=414npO2O69L&ref=plSrch

Dash: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CSS654/Kicker-40CSS654.html?tp=106

As for subs a single 10" (even some 8's) in a "truck box" will give you the missing low end. You will retain your cargo space and much easier to take out if you need to load up. Or should someone decide they need your subs more than you, it will be cheaper to replace. Of course you could do a 12" or double up on anything...I was young once and competed in many audio events. If you want to go nuts let's talk.

As for your head unit. Head over to www.crutchfield.com and poke around. Many use Crutchfield to see what fits then shop around for a better deal. If you purchase from them you will many time receive all the wiring and mounting hardware +phone support.

If you are newer to modifying things your stereo is a good entry into learning how things work. Feel free to hit me up if you need to talk through anything.

> The Polk components are quality but really need the additional wattage of an amplifier to sound their best

I hear this a lot and the more I learn about audio components, the less sense this makes. Any type of speaker is going to sound 'better' with an external amp in the right circumstances. IE, powering them beyond what your head unit's amp is capable of.

But, component speakers aren't some kind of mystical audio unicorn. They're essentially the same thing as a coaxial speaker (separate drivers to reproduced limited bands of audio). The difference between a coaxial and a set of components is A) a better crossover, B) a larger tweeter, and C) separate components so that the tweeter can be placed for better sound imaging. These features aren't anything to scoff at, but they don't require an amp to function.

OP shouldn't shy away from getting a component set because they won't have an amp. Especially with the Polk db6501 available for less than $130. Those speakers will still sound good running off of the head unit's amp. Particularly if he doesn't have second front channel speakers installed in the dash/A pillar/sail panel/upper door already.

This post isn't meant to attack you personally, just questioning the conventional wisdom that component speakers 'really need an amp to sound their best'.

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZOZRLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zrzCybCMQ31D1

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7G1TPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tHzCybJXA9DDS

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XLzCybRKTEWY2

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJzCybAXEKGZV

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MKzCyb1CT1SCX

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

I just bought a '14 GT which is essentially the same internals as the 2011. I went with these Polk DB571's. Took me about an hour and a half to install, but it all went flawlessly and they sound incredibly better than the stock crap that came with it. Sync calls now sound clear and nice whereas before they were muffled and flat. They do not need an amplifier and they are so much better than stock.

Also make sure you buy 2 of these as well so you don't have to do any fancy wiring. Each pack comes with 2. And also a set of these so you don't damage anything taking the doors and trunk shelf apart.

Here is a crazy useful video on how to install them.

Total cost for two sets of speakers and tools to install them, about $130. This is of course assuming you have a ratchet set available.

Had fun building this with my 11 yo as a gift for college freshman. Here's what we used:

8" sched 40 PVC pipe

PVC cement

Talentcell 12v lithium battery

2.1 Bluetooth receiver / amp

12v to 24v booster

Skar 8" dual voice coil sub wired as 4ohm

Infiity 6.5" reference speakers 8ohm

Mats to isolate 6.5" speakers, and this

Passive raidators (semi-sealed enclosure), and this

Rifle swivels and sling, and this

Mounting feet

Clamps for main plate

Finished it in a truck bed liner spray in black on round PVC surfaces and a metallic gray on the faceplate.

One of the tricks was to create a flat faceplate from the PVC by cutting the 8" pipe section, cooking 15 mins at 300F, then flatenning it out with weight / pressure. Next time, I would prob sub a different material for the faceplate just to make it easy.

If I could do it over again, I'd use a thinner PVC pipe. Standard Sched 40 in 8" weights a lot... 5lb / foot plus very heavy end caps that I used to surround both sides. Probably 20 lbs of PVC alone.

Also, struggle to get the thing to be truly enclosed. Significant air escapes around the perimeter of the faceplate despite applying clamp force and a bit of dynamat.

Sounds great though! 18 yo kid loved it! Lots of tight bass and this amp puts out good sound with the right power/amps feeding it. Sorry not an audiophile so not testing results to share.

Yeah, having Bluetooth or an Aux was the deal breaker on wanting to switch to something new. I was going to buy a single din Pioneer stereo, but I'm glad I found the Blaupunkt stereo instead.

I installed these polk speakers a while back and it was a huge improvement over stock. Adding in the new stereo made it that much better.

I always wondered if there was a way to add Bluetooth without a new head unit, but was a bit lazy on figuring it out. Good luck!

I have the 4100NEX too. Love it.

I went with an Alpine PDX-V9 for the amplifier:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-5-Channel-Extreme-Amplifier/dp/B007VSXGOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233218&sr=1-1&keywords=pdx-v9

Polk DB6501 crossovers for the speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

My sub is the slimline JL 10tw3-d4:

https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233136&sr=1-1&keywords=JL+TW3

The box requirements are tiny for the sub, and the bass is amazing! The amp is really small but powerful.

Sound quality is awesome with the top on or off. I got the bass adjustment knob for the amp to help with this.

For high quality sound on a budget I'd do things a bit differently. Get a good set of component speakers (like these) for the front doors and get a 2 channel amp to power them. Drop the 6x9s you won't need them in the coupe.

A head unit doesn't have a very good amp and the sound quality won't be very good, even at low volumes. Two speakers running off an amp will sound better (and louder) than 4 off a head unit.

A sub will need an amp. A good sub with a good amp will be a great addition and will improve sound quality but you'll need to spend an extra $250+ for everything (Sub, Enclosure, Amp, Wiring, installation) for something that's decent quality. I'd leave this for now as it doesn't fit into your budget.

I have pioneer head unit, Polk MM651s and a Rockford 2 channel amp, the sound quality is great. I plan to add a sub in the future and replace my speakers with components.

Based on your post, I was wondering if you even needed a head unit. If you need is AUX input, I wonder i there are amps with AUX input or if you can wire an iPod/Music Player directly to an amp without the HU. HU's really don't do much these days, I like my Head Unit it has all sorts f features but really 90% of what I use it for is to play audio over Bluetooth off my phone. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can answer this for us.

I cannot tell you 100% if they're the best for the price, but I can tell you that I really liked the sound of them when I owned them. Keep in mind that part of having a good sounding speaker is having them properly installed. I put some cheap sound deadening mat inside doors (home depot stuff) in the doors along with MDF ring bases and was really satisfied with their capabilities. Here you can see the reviews on amazon. I recommend going through the questions people have had on these speakers.

Coaxial speakers just means that the tweeter and woofer and built together, so you only have to install one thing. Components come with an external crossover(sends bass+mid to woofer, high end to tweeters) that everything connects to, which lets you place the separated tweeters in a separate location.

Dunno if your particular focus has seperate tweeters, or coaxial speakers, see if this video is your car. If it is then the size looks like 6"x9", which would be great if you like bass because 6x9 speakers are the next best thing to a dedicated sub-woofer.

Don't see any well-known brands of 6x9 speakers on Halfords, but Amazon.co.uk has some nice looking choices. Like these JBLS, if they will fit.

You'll have to take time to do a little research, to know what the exact size is. Or rip off the door panel and break-out the tape-measure.

Shame on r/moto for downvoting a legitimate question. If you don't like how others customize their bikes then just move on.

Certified audio visual technician, I can help with the speakers. If you're going to use the speakers when your bike is off, you need to fit an extra or larger battery into your bike. Recommend at least a 12AH (amp hour) deep cycle battery for the "extra" or anything larger than your current battery for a single one. Forget everything you were told about wattage. Wattage != loud. You want Db rating. Db rating = how loud a speaker is in decibels with 1 watt of power to it. You have to double the wattage every time to get 3 more db. 400 watts vs 100 watts is only 4 decibels louder in the same speaker, or, a barely noticeable difference.

On the cheap end I recommend:
>Any head unit you prefer with a least 20watts per channel or this https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582501&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai If you're cool with just using an aux cord straight from your phone into an amp.

>And these speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-DS693-3-Way-Speakers-Pair/dp/B004K5AZAQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582569&sr=1-5&keywords=6x9+speakers 92db with 1 watt. 20 watts is plenty to crank it them to 104 decibels. 50watts to about 108 decibels.

Pricier but the best bang for your buck:

>Head unit of your choice (doesn't need any wattage)
>This amplifier https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-PAD2000-2-2-channel-Amplifier/dp/B0060AVWRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582960&sr=1-1&keywords=polk+d2000.2 ignore the reviews, solid amp, people just don't know what they're doing.
>these speakers https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KS693-Inch-3-way-Speakers/dp/B004OAWLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582825&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+ks+6x9 or these https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582858&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+6x9

All speakers are water proof and very durable. I recommend 6x9s for maximum listening pleasure. Don't forget to wire a switch to cut power from the amp and headunit when you don't need them.

Check the /r/CarAV side bar for the approved gear link for more suggestions. These are on sale and are definitely a step up from the Fosgate

https://www.amazon.com/Hertz-DSK-165-3-Component-DSK165-3/dp/B008B5JPTS

The Hertz HSK line is even better but the ones I linked look like they're on sale at Amazon.

Even better: https://www.amazon.com/CL-61-Audio-Component-Speakers-System/dp/B00FX9SO74

Or these babies, if properly tuned will blow those Fosgates completely out of the water.

https://www.amazon.com/DLS-RM6-2-Reference-Component-Speaker/dp/B00G4L6V0W

Don't forget to look at Morel. They are pretty much the gold standard of speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Tempo-Morel-6-5-Component-System/dp/B003F2U79O

I have a 08 elantra I put the exact same Kenwoods in the rear doors. They sound great on the factory head unit, no distortion. Unlike the 60w RMS polks I have in the front doors which do distort (got to get an amp for those).

I did gain a bit of clarity and fidelity by swapping the stock speakers out for the kenwoods, but they are nowhere near as good as the polks; even though they are unamped.

Also as a side note, I got those Kenwood 1666 on amazon for $21, maybe you can too. It was about a month ago though.

edit: Found the Link they're actually $2 cheaper than when I got em.

edit2: beware, these didn't come with an adapter ring in the box. Might be something to consider when deciding to order from amazon. I'm pretty sure crutchfield includes them for free.

Ridiculously overpriced but thats just my opinion. I had alpine type r components in front, two way in rears a 12in sub and alpine 5 channel amp for about $600 cheaper. Sure the sub is nice since its out of the way but you can purchase that separately if you want it. The amp was the most expensive piece it was like $400-500. You're better off buying a 4 channel amp and getting aftermarket speakers.

Here are the specs on the type r components:

110 Watts RMS
330 Watts Peak

The speakers alone will trash that system.

componenets $150

2 way $100

pdx-f4 $305

or

pdx-v9 $430

then pick a sub and it'll still be a better deal than the oem system.

I've had good luck with the Rockford Fosgate Punch series of co-ax's. I also strongly recommend applying a small amount sound deadener (Noico from Amazon is good and cheap) around the area you are installing the speakers and a foam fast ring kit around each speaker. I have went this route on a couple of factory systems and it made a major improvement - all of these upgrades should be within your stated budget.

Links:

Speakers
Deadener
Fast rings

The speakers on the door are a 1 inch tweeter and about 2.5 inch midrange then the 5 1/4 inch by your feet. Not all one inch tweeters will fit but these fit with little modification. Also check out Bavarian Sound Works even if you're not looking to buy from them to check what sizes they use. I plan on using the speakers I linked below with help from the other link. Good Luck on your first car.
http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/hk_speaker_upgrade/
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB5251-5-25-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0PFA0

(((post is also for Zack V, who is building a system right now in his truck)))

​

I want to focus mainly on the upper front speakers, let's say you've got 3.5's up in the dash.

But first lets get a recommendation out of the way for the 6x9's: Run them on an amp.

On the amp for the 6x9's, likely wire 4-channel amp mounted somewhere under the glovebox where it won't get kicked by someone's feet.

Then a set of speaker wires from the dash head unit and back up to the head unit to splice into the wiring harness adapter that was purchased for the head unit, this will feed the speakers their power instead of the head units own speaker output without having to run any new wiring to each speaker, which should be just fine if you are not going over 300 watts peak (or over 50 watts RMS per channel, 200 watts RMS total, or 450 watts max, peak is usually 50% over RMS, MAX is usually 200% to 250% over RMS).   So you can safely go up to a 450-watt amp easily as long as you're not running it at max full volume 100% all the time, which you won't because you'll go deaf in no time. Most newer vehicles stock wiring (although thinner) is of high enough quality to handle this with no problems (50-Watts RMS).

The amp will have to have a "high-level input" for this to work (just don't use the RCA connectors for this task unless the stock radio has the low output option for them, which isn't likely). You will likely only find the less expensive amplifiers with this option, as most setups replace the head unit first (aftermarket head units provide the low level RCA outputs designed for use with amplifiers).

As for the 3 1/2 speakers in the dash, this is going to be the hardest thing to understand but they are actually full range and set the "sound stage" for the vocal part of the music.  Putting in tweeters only (without full or mid-range) will kill your sound stage entirely and make your vocals sound very flat, especially if your 6x9's are lower in the doors by the feet.

Most importantly is to match them to the head unit, meaning you want to get the highest clean volume with the minimum wattage, for example: (and I just researched this) the best pair on the market without an amp will be something like the Infinity Reference 3022cfx 3.5" and here's why:  you get 91db of "pure, clean sound" (due to low end Bass Blocker built in so you don't blow out such a small speaker) but all that sound comes from only 25-watts of power!  (Can handle up to 75 peak if the head unit puts that much out or you want to add a second 2-channel amp) but that combined with a very high signal to noise ratio will give plenty of volume without needing an amp, and this is one of the only component speakers of this size that comes in a 3-ohm configuration which will give it some added oomf due to higher power draw at lower volumes (meant to compensate for the other speakers running on an amp). If you check out all the other offerings on the market, you'll see a lower sensitivity, higher RMS power requirement, narrower frequency range, much higher price, and in some cases ALL of these factors at once!

Others like the JL Audio C2-350x, JBL GTO329, and Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 all have very limiting factors such as high power requirements, needing a second 2-channel amp, or low signal to noise ratio, needing a second amp, or specifically the JL's may sound flat due to a limited higher frequency range (like tweeters only),  the JBL's will be drowned out by the sheer volume of the 6x9's with the 3.5" JBL's having such a high RMS power requirement they will literally sound "quiet" compared to the 6x9's without their own amp, and the Rockford Fosgate 3.5's have both a lower sensitivity and flatter frequency response. I know it's only a few hertz (85 to 120) but that to me makes all the difference on the vocal sound stage when there's a low male voice singing such as Eddie Vedder, Johnny Cash, Jim Morrison, etc... (at least to me I hear a difference, it could be psychological but that's a whole other category of postings).

Keep in mind you can spend OVER $1000 (without buying an amp) on 3 & 1/2 inch speakers & Signal Processor & Shipping chasing top quality, but this isn't the goal here today, for right now you want your price range of the whole speaker system around $500.

Of course if you're only streaming Pandora or Spotify don't bother for highest quality as the high ranges all get garbled to audio compression so there's no point, just go with whatever cheapest speakers won't give distortion at moderately high volumes.

Don't forget the wiring adapters! This was my favorite part for not having to cut the factory speaker connectors and they're usually under $3 each Example: Speaker Harness for $5.62 / pair.

I hope this helps you make a decision. Personally I like the vocals in music the most so I may sound a little passionate on the topic of setting the sound stage.

$300 for 4 speakers? Thats a pretty good budget.

I would personally buy these 6.5's and these 6x9's. Now, i have the first set of speakers i linked, and so do a lot of the people on this subreddit. They are pretty nice sounding speakers, and will get as loud as you need. I linked those 6x9's because they are the same model as the first, just different size.


Also, i saved you $50, that you should spend on deadening.

You'd get better sound quality putting a 2 way component set up front and leaving your rears stock. This is what I'd go with on your budget.

Headunit $230

Sub $60

Box $45

4 channel amp $135

Front components $120

Total is $590, so a little over your $600 budget after wiring and adapters. If you run this you would power your front components using the first 2 channels of the amp, and you'd power the sub by bridging channels 3 and 4. You'd keep your rears stock and fade your sound all the way to the front for the best sound quality. This would be a pretty nice budget sound quality system.

For the fronts you would just have to buy 6x8 to 6.5 adapters for your vehicle and mount the tweeters somewhere, usually either your doors or a-pillars.

These are my recommendations. Are your 6x9's old? Because, they are cheap speakers, but they still shouldn't distort like that.
Some good 6x9
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN2TGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1398354095&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Some good 6.5" rounds
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN2TF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1398354234&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Finally you said you wanted to maybe add a second 15"? This amp has 2 channels, so you could add the second some at any time. As for knowing if it is 2 or 4 ohms, you can use a digital multi meter (dmm) to measure the impedance in the sub. This is a 2 ohm amp, but a 4 ohm isn't hard to find.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CYL7LW/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1&qid=1398354444&sr=8-12
I hope this helps!

You're not going to be able to keep the cassette player. I'm sorry to break it to you, but for the same reasons you can't buy an 8-track player, you can no longer buy a cassette player. As pdb1795 said, you can always get a new stereo with CD/AUX, then use a walkman plugged into the AUX to play your tapes. But I suggest converting all your tapes to MP3 ASAP so they'll stop losing sound quality everytime you play them. Plus you'll be able to play those MP3s without a walkman on your new stereo.

​New stereo (all harnesses and brackets included for free)

Amplifier

Wiring

Front Speakers

​

Subwoofer depends on how much bass you want and how much trunk space you're willing to sacrifice. It also sounds like you're getting it all installed professionally, which is a smart idea. So figure at least $250 for labor, likely more like $300.

Just installed these in my 2000 a week ago. It took 15 minutes, and all I needed was a Phillips screwdriver and the new wiring harness


Kenwood KFC-1666S Sport Series 300W 6.5" 6-1/2 in 2-Way Flush Mount Car Speaker / 2 Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJB67X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ua45AbZ2WTWPH


Metra 72-9300 Speaker Connector for Select Mazda/Nissan Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BETHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ff45AbQBSREC4

Let me know if you need any help, it was pretty straightforward though. Best of luck!

Yea, sell it for whatever...

Pre built , stick to a sealed box.

Something like

Ultimax 10

Pioneer 8601

box

It might not be much louder than what you have, but it should hit deeper and sound better. Make sure the new box is well sealed and throw some polyfill in to make up for sub displacement if you like.

Get high-sensitivity speakers rated over 90db. I have Polk db6501 components and they work quite well, and have a 92 db rating. They're so loud on 75watts x 2 that I have to dial back the gain from the head unit to keep them in line with my 3 subs running on 800 watts.

You should plan on getting an amp & sub to compliment your door speakers. I'd recommend a 5 channel amp with a remote sub controller like mine.

For a sub figure out the largest box you can fit in the trunk first, and then you can match a sub to it. Don't worry about rear speakers unless you're entertaining passengers.

You really can't do much without an amp, but if you have the same size speakers front & rear you can start with inexpensive speakers in the front and build the rest of the system with amp & sub. Then you can get new front speakers, and fit the cheap speakers in the back for ambience or just in case passengers are along.

Infinity Reference 5 channel amp - $239.99

[4 AWG amp kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RWK4CU-Copper-Complete-Installation/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550159767&sr=8-6&keywords=4+awg+amp+kit) - $49.95

9 wire - $24.95

Additional RCAs - $19.99

4 channel LOC - $23.34 - You need this because you're keeping your factory radio

RCA splitter - $7.45 - To get the 4 channel LOC to 6 channels for the amp's input. There's maybe other ways you could do this, but this is what I would do because it'd be the simplest to swap the radio in the future.

Infinity Reference 6.5" for the doors - $56.95/pair x 2 = $113.90

Infinity Reference 3.5" for the dash - $48.70

= $528.37 + Installation which will easily run between $200 - $350

If you'd like to spend a bit more you might ask about sound dampening on the doors. Or you might save the extra and put it towards replacing the radio in the future.

Super, thank you also for confirming the speaker is a 8 ohm 3 watt.

For an L-Pad I am looking at this: https://www.ebay.com/p/Eminence-Overspx-lpad-L-pad-Assembly-Kit/1500346869

Basically I like the fact it is more flush mount. Now to find some really nice 4 ohm speakers... Maybe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

• locker. with a soft top you may want to be able to leave something expensive in your jeep with some peace of mind. any kind of locker that affixes to the vehicle and is made of metal. lots on amazon.
  
  
• kicker speaker upgrades, they are a direct replacement, and sound much better for a good price.
  
  
• interior LED light replacement, you can get a drop in LED dome light replacement at your local shop that will let you actually see inside when you need to.
  
  
• mopar gas cap cover, if yours doesn't have one.
  
  
• little stick-on wide angle mirrors, big help for blind spots. they're everywhere and cheap, find one you like and put on one or both mirrors in the corner.

Disclaimer, I'm into very high end car audio, so this might be overkill.

I would not recommend using the cutout in the rear deck if it is available, which it isn't. Definitely no cutout there. You would be much better off putting a little ten inch sealed box in the trunk. Shouldn't take up much space at all, and will sound much better. You get into some weird issues putting aftermarket subwoofers in stock rear deck locations anyways, most subwoofers can't be run in an "infinite baffle" set up like that.


Here is a very decent system for under $600

Front Speakers $140


Subwoofer $130


Subwoofer Box $35


Amplifier $170


LOC $100


Budget a minimum of $200 for install.


This will be a killer system. Super clean and plenty loud. The four channel amp's two rear channels can be bridged to power the subwoofer. Trust me, you don't need rear speakers.

You can also install the subwoofer and amps where the spare tire goes, just get AAA.

I miss my 4runner like hell. I had the same exact year. The Couple tips I'll give are as follows.

1. Rear speakers are not very important due to low mounting
   
   
2. When you pull the factory woofers cut the speaker out of the frame. Then mount that to the door. Put the speaker in place and run long screws through the plastic to the metal. This will help with clearance issues and having to do extra work drilling and mdf rings.
   
   
3. get a very small amount of deadening for the front doors. The lows are much cleaner. A MUST WITH NO SUB!!
   
   
4. Amp them if at all possible.
   
   Enjoy your 4runner. I loved mine. And I will have another some day
   
   Amp: $60
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GN5K650/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465707141&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41GaE-RQw8L&ref=plSrch
   
   Components: $140
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5JPTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707295&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hertz+component&dpPl=1&dpID=51V1OG4m70L&ref=plSrch
   
   Or these for $150. These have rear Fill out on the crossovers which could benefit you as well.
   
   http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/sxp65a-diamond-audio-6-5-150w-rms-sxblack-series-convertible-component-speaker-system-aluminum-tweeters.html
   
   
   Rear speakers: $ 85
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5C1C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465707841&sr=8-2&pi=CB192198896_AA75_QL70&keywords=hertz+5.25
   
   
   
   Wiring kit: $23
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707977&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch
   
   
   I spent $307 very wisely. If you get a head unit from sonic electronics they give you the install kit. Some decent pioneer and Kenwood units are in 200 or so range allowing for a small order of sound deadening.
   
   I'd figure 250 to 350 for the radio making the total 557-657.
   
   30 is plenty to get some sound deadening. Making my total $587-687.
   
   Another option to help the speakers reach potential are the Mini amps you can install behind the dash. I really want to get you the sound quality you seek. But doing so effectively means a amp
   

Thanks for the tips! I found an adapter that Crutchfield thinks will work and found these for a decent price on Amazon but I still worry about getting them to fit since I won't be doing the install... I guess I shouldn't worry since Crutchfield is pretty good at what they do but I don't want to have whoever does the install to not be able to complete it because they don't fit and then still charge me a labor fee.

The Harmon speakers sound fantastic, I just didn’t see it worth the $3k package it comes with lol

The kickr tweeters, speakers, and sub is an optional upgrade you can buy at the dealership or on Amazon (click me)

I highly recommend getting a headunit if you can find a deal on one and if you want to challenge yourself with a DIY install. I’ve never installed one in my life but it was a fun experience.

Go the easy route and order some Kickers off Amazon. $60 for the set, plug and play, and sound great. Kicker Speakers

Thanks for the info. Do you think the MTX amp would be worth it in the long run (like, would the Power Acoustik amp die on me)?

Also: I've heard that these Alpines are great speakers and I am wondering if it would be worth it to shell out the extra $50. Or maybe I should go with these Polks. You seem to be pretty educated when it comes to audio; what would your choice be?

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_46055_JBL_GX962.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-e13MeT3gIVT1qGCh0gdAIxEAQYCSABEgL0QPD_BwE

Above is gx series. A little over 2 ohms but 94 dB so should be ok.

JBL GTO939 GTO Series 6x9" 300W 3 Way Black Car Coaxial Audio Speakers Stereo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KN2TGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mYLYBbDP4CDHQ

3 way gto series which is similar to what I had, I had the 2 ways as I felt that 3way can just be marketing talk at this level. There may be better deals out there.

I can't recall but I may have replaced the dash speakers with gtos as well, been a couple years.

I would like to replace the HU, but no one locally has worked on a 2017 Forester w/ the Eyesight, Starlink, and all of the collision avoidance they build into the cars. I think this is definitely the best route, but I would like a few more opinions, especially anyone who has done it already.

I used the term "tweeter" loosely. It's hard to tell exactly what they are, as they have passive crossovers built into them. They are literally designed to be plug and play. They may actually be closer to midrange than a true tweeter.

Amazon Link To Speaker

There is the link for what they are.

This is my build which I posted on Facebook a few days ago, before I add subwoofer, so far less than $500, I'm still building it ..

--

Tonight's window-shopping shopping cart for my first audio upgrade from 2016 WRX base OEM audio. Includes amp, speakers, and noise suppression. This seems like a really good starter build for less than $500. Looking for feedback.

DS18 SLC1800.4 DS18 Select SLC-1800.4 1,800 Watts Four (4) Channels Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDI0D3K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IDI0D3K&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=TLRSTER62FWVZ4YI

• affordable clean wattage
  
• 80 watts per channel matches customer recommendations for the Alpine speakers
  
  Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0059AK2T0&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=PXNDF7S6RPBZPEKP
  
  Rockford RFK4X 4 AWG Complete Amplifier Install Kit
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012BYOSK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012BYOSK&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=2GAGDGGKMRWMHURO
  
  Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=as_li_tl…
  
  50 Sq Ft Noico Self-adhesive Foil & Butyl Mat 50 Mil Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URR4O5I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00URR4O5I&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=Q7FJEOPI6QOBHJKL
  
  Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015WJH4ZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B015WJH4ZW&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=WNEQ67NXUPTXMY4T
  
  BAFX Products® - Decibel Meter / Sound Level Reader - W/ Battery
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECCZWWI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ECCZWWI&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=UV3UKNSI24GV7E3Q
  
  
• to measure the noise levels before and after installing the Noico mat
  
  Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for iPhone, iPad Tablet and Android
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ADR2B84&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=XCRDPQNFVK6NFAAN
  
  
• to calibrate the HU EQ after the amp and speakers are installed

Get these instead of the Kicker's

Polk Audio DB461P 4-by-6-Inch Coaxial Plate-Style Speakers (Pair, Black)
http://amzn.com/B000P0NJOO

And these instead of the JVC's

Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver)
http://amzn.com/B000P0R6KW

For $15 more, you'll get better sound. Although, if you prefer to use Crutchfield, I'm sure you'll be happy (for the time being) with those.

Here are the parts I'm considering so far

2 sets of these for all 4 doors

Alpine SPS-610C 6-1/2" Component 2-Way Type-S Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004THAWHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kqsnyb7A57SH7


These 6x9 for rear deck

Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WusnybVYBR8YD



This for getting signal to amp. Not sure if complete overkill for my goal setup.

AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter with Bass Restoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATHBO86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bwsnyb2TGNBDW



And this subwoofer. I might go with 2 of them when I add them to my car.

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kysnybS8CXRZS

Like stated above I have no idea on the amplifier. I would like to have it power my speakers and subwoofer, so I'm guessing a multi channel would be better? In the end i would like to have a woofer and tweeter per door, 2 rear deck 6x9, and a subwoofer or 2. Please let me know if anything needs to change. I'm open to all opinions and suggestions.

I bought a pair of these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bzVDzbKZAHRXN

And something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00T9DX538/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tAVDzbFYVYR9R

Then covered them with speaker grills.

Works really well and gets decent sound while not costing too much money and it was way easier to setup than tearing apart old computer speakers.

I never put in a sub nor did I fully think it was worthwhile.

http://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459290714&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+db6501 ..I've had these myself for 7 years and I love them. I have them and the db691 (3way 6x9) in my rear deck. The sound they produce is amazing, more so with an amp.

These look pretty good: JBL GTO609C Premium 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANI3LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6jHzbECF9SVW

For a few bucks more, I've also heard good things about these: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r8jHzbT4S09VR

I have used this in the past for an arcade machine:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Home-Mini-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B0071HZ5EQ/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1542249390&sr=8-23&keywords=amp+pyle&dpID=51lERL5XyrL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

It's a bit light, but it worked pretty well with this pair of car speakers:

​

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-CH6530-Car-Speakers/dp/B000J1FABY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542249440&sr=8-3&keywords=boss+car+speakers&dpID=419kc1idC3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I'm not sure how the tweeters come out because I haven't changed my speakers over yet. In shaa Allah. But I do have a fairly high end set of Polk audio woofers and tweeters with crossover so you're not crazy for going that route. I've seen people wire in the mini amps like the one made by alpine which I also have.

So I'm pretty sure it's possible to wire in all that stuff. These are the speakers I have:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0R6LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465262462&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=polk+audio+6.5+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41lSW9Ti-gL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just stuck these into my brothers car this weekend with an 80wrms amp. It sounds incredible. And for an everyday setup(not competition/show off car) they are pretty loud and clear. Plus, it leaves you with $250 to find an amp. Crutchfield reccomends putting 6.5's into the front door using an adapter bracket because the stock ones are 6x9. But the back door is already 6.5. so thats an option!


But like everyone else said. Buy it all at once and take your car apart only once. It just makes life easier and you break less clips, trim, screws etc.

You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?

Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497924801&sr=8-1&keywords=POlk+DB+6501

Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.

I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.


ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497925174&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier

It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.

This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.

I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.

I have had these for years and just love them, would recommend every time!!

I do not have rear deck speakers. but as long as you know the speaker size, speaker impedance of your factory speaker, you can find a replacement in amazon. these are the bass blockers i have used. I think for tweeters you are better off buying 3.5" speakers like Infinity REF3022CFX or something similar and modify the brackets, as in cutting the outer brackets of the speakers with Dremel so the holes in speaker lines up with the frame. you will find some posts in forums about people doing it. this is the one I ordered Pioneer subwoofer. this is not as easy as replacing factory speakers, because most subwoofer will need their own power cable to route from the battery. also plug the rca and remote wire in the back of the head unit then route them back to the speaker at the trunk. for now, do some online search and forum reading, to see what other owners of your car model have used to upgrade their speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW

Spend a little more, and get those. it's the best bang for the buck and they fit in most factory locations without mods.

Since you're looking at a whole system I'd look towards a 5 channel amp like this Kenwood. Polk makes good components. JL makes good SQ subs. That amp would power these fine. You're going to get a wide variety of opinions on this though.

They are 6.5 and I found these recommended in a thread with a few upvotes: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

Does that seem like a good deal?

A few reviews I looked at indicated that some kind of spacing is needed such as a mdf ring. Is this what is needed in the car?

Are you on FB groups? Nick from New Provisions Racing can hook you up with a deal on the door speakers, they don't have the tweeters.

​

Tweeters.

​

Doors.

​

Just be sure to go on Subaru and DOUBLE CHECK that the part #'s on the Amazon listings match the model you need for your model and trim level and such. I'm 90% sure those links are a match, but you should def check just to be sure.

Thanks for the comment!

what do you think of these http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371929199&sr=8-1&keywords=SPR-60C

would you recommend getting coaxial speakers in the rear?

Rotary engines can't power aftermarket audio equipment..... :P

But srs, get a nice Double Din(Pioneer/Kenwood/Clarion)

Get a nice 4 channel amp, and I'd suggest(with 6x8 to 6.5 adapters) these polks upfront and these in the rear

If you're wondering why I suggest adapters, it's because the choices for 6x8's are slim to none.

Polk audio man. These cost a bit extra but would definitely be worth it.
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369987553&sr=1-1&keywords=Polk+audio+db

I didn’t have any luck finding a separate Hertz mid to match your tweeters but you could always get the Hertz DSK 165.3 component set that matches those tweeters and sell the two sets of coaxials.

If you’re feeling adventurous you could get a completely separate mid that isn’t a Hertz brand but there’s a lot of options out there and that could be a difficult choice to make if you’re not sure how they will pair with the tweeters. On the plus side you can tweak the crossover points a little to see if different LP/HP crossovers work better.

1. Is my rear woofer will play louder without tweeter than with tweeter attached to it at the same volume?
   
2. How much better a morel tempo 6 component set compared to JBL 609C component set?

The older dell soundbars that attached under monitors had decent sound. I had used one on my old bartop. New ones don't have AC adapter like the old ones. Run off USB power.

Otherwise it's an amp and speakers like these. I used these in my full size arcade build:
4in Speakers and


Amp

I just put these in mine and they are night and day better than stock:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're plug and play so no extra wiring or anything of that nature.

I created a mounting plate for dual speakers and where people are putting buttons you could make speaker holes

https://imgur.com/gallery/I3xQBgU

Got these upgraded speakers they even can mount in the stock location if you just want better quality

BOSS Audio BRS40 50 Watt, 4 Inch,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Yes sir, Ram 1500.
I was looking at these for the 5.25" and these for the 6x9. I basically want a tweeter up top since the speakers are so low in the door.

Yes:
First swap your speakers out with something like these:
Kicker 77KICK10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS

• get 2 sets (front and back)
  Also swap the little speakers in the dash and rollbar with 77KICK25
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2UYPI
  
• again get 2 sets.
  
  Then get you a decent amp. I prefer DD Audio D4.90 amp but any quality 4-channel amp at 75w per channel is fine. The D4.90 can take line-level inputs from your 130 head unit.

I replaced only the front and rear speakers last year, kept the stock radio as I only listen to mp3's via my phone. What I didn't know was the factory speakers were 20W each (blech) and that soldering would be involved. Done and happy.

Im open to it. Honestly I was think these Polks in the front at the most. Like I said, theres no reason to go full audiophile since its just a truck.

I'm tempted to try out the Halo LED headlights on Amazon for $120 ish.

https://www.amazon.com/TURBO-Headlight-Projection-Motorcycle-Freightliner/dp/B015WIRU2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741576&sr=8-1&keywords=wrangler+halo+led

$63 for speaker upgrades, I can't recommend it enough. I got 2 kits for both soundbar and front speakers, took me less than 2 hours to install it all myself.

https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741601&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+upgrade

Next on my wish list is the switch panel that goes on the windshield, hook all your lights into one unit.

https://www.amazon.com/Apollointech-Wrangler-Windshield-6-Switch-Assemblies/dp/B01CDTW03K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741651&sr=8-4&keywords=wrangler+switch+panel

$120 Polk DB6501 for a component set or for a little less $80 for Polk DB651 coaxial They do quite well with deck power. Before I upgraded I had the 6501s in the front and 651s in the rear running off of head power with an MRP-M500 running a RE SE-X15 and they were pretty well balanced.

1. Chryco wiring harness
   
2. Single DIN bezel
   
3. Speakers
   
4. Soldering iron kit
   
5. Heat Shrink
   
   Tell Best Buy to go suck a lemon.

Recently bought these and installed myself. Good bang for your buck!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AFxK9E69ocMMo

For the fronts did you go a for a nested 2 way or a component?

I am still unfamiliar with the whole way the wattages work.
My understanding is that the Subwoofers Wattage level needs to match or exceed the sum of RMS across all speakers? So a 5 channel 650 watt amp could drive 4x 110 Watt speakers, and a 210 Watt Sub?

Would this kit work well?

I got them from Amazon. As per usual, you probably wouldn't find them that cheap in a normal store. My car ('94 civic coupe) took a pair of 6.5's in the front doors and a pair of 5.25's in the rear deck. Your accord might have 6x9's in the rear deck. If this is the case, your price will be a bit higher.

Looking at Amazon right now, the prices are a little higher than when I bought them.
Polk DB651 - 6.5" Pair - $65

Polk DB621 - 5.25" Pair - $64

Polk DB691 - 6X9 Pair - $88

These JEEP WRANGLER JK KICKER SPEAKER UPGRADE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OQwBwb56MGN5T they are plug and play with no need for an adapter.

Yes. I didn't do a ton of looking tbh, but they were cheap and had solid reviews. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RNNX8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the amps I actually found this really cool YouTube channel that tests out budget amps to see if they are "up to Snuff" or trash.
Here is my build:

Door speakers
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059AK2T0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Amp for door speakers
Dual Electronics XPR84D 2/1 High Performance Power MOSFET Class D Car Amplifier with 1,000-Watts of Dynamic Peak Power

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849

Sub
Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V-c4BbJW5C6F2

Amp for Sub
Audiopipe AMPI-1500 1500 Watts 1 Channel Mono Amplifier

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Audiopipe-AMPI-1500-1500-Watts-1-Channel-Mono-Amplifier/48123860

I would start by replacing the 2 small dash speakers. They are 3.5" but for some reason lack a tweeter. I replaced mine with some Infinity Ref. 2 ways and it really brightened up the soundstage.

https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-REF3022CFX-Reference-Speakers-Edge-driven/dp/B01E4JWG6I?keywords=infinity+ref+3.5&qid=1538330991&sr=8-1&ref=mp_s_a_1_1

I like This MB Quart amp.

and if you don't go with Focal take a look at these Infinity Kappa 6x9s or These JBL 6x9s

These fit in an 04 WRX with a spacer so look for speakers this size. Decent speaker too though a little trebly.

So I don't really need to worry about what I get? I honestly don't want to have to run wires, splice and take apart panels right now. Just trying to get some decent sounding speakers to replace the 13 year old ones that are starting to distort. I saw some Good Infinity Speakers on Amazon that I was looking at along with the Metra connections to make it easy to connect without needing to splice or strip cables.

I understand I won't be getting any resounding bass but the speakers in there (before getting wobbly) was good enough for me. Still using stock everything because I am a firm believer of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Well now it's broke and needs fixing.

Nothing wrong with those components... how about a pair of these guys and one of these so they don't meet the same fate..

The biggest buyers remorse for me was the 730 Nav/XM radio with the hard drive. Jeez does that thing suck. I'm not kidding, it was a $1895 option and is worse than anything I've ever encountered. The XM sound quality is terrible - generally flat regardless of setup. The NAV functions cause instant rage trying to input a location, and of course they want $200 two years later to update the maps. The only thing that sounds halfway decent is playing high bitrate MP3s, but only after I replaced the garbage factory speakers with higher end units.

Basically, you could replace every single function the in-car entertainment system does with a cheap cell phone, and have it all done much better.

I had this driving my two of these and the amp was just entirely too much for them at anything past 15 volume on a scale to 50. It definitely is decent, but I don't have the means to test its actual output.

I got it off Amazon. It's a dual channel 50W + 50W driver that can drive 4ohm -8ohm speakers. I used BOSS 4" 50W 4ohm speakers

TDA7492P 2 x 50 Watt Dual Channel Amplifier Wireless Digital Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Amplifier Board 50W + 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HtjByb5TNPS0P

BOSS AUDIO BRS40 BRS 4" 50-watt Full Range Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mvjByb6J5BQZV

Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.

Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.

Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!

That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.

Edit: Link

Since you already have the 12v battery to run it from, and you just want to hook your phone to it. You could get a lot of bang for your buck with one of these little t-amps and a couple of inexpensive 6.5" car speakers

Thinking on getting either infinity or polk or one of these in the search

Oh really? this is the setup I got

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

Edit I also have the speaker harness

I see. Do you know of any speakers closer to the $100 mark? Checked my bank I got $390 to spend.

Edit: What would you say about these?http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
I found them on the suggested FAQ

https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491113422&sr=8-1&keywords=jk+speaker

I just did these in my soundbar on my 2017. Difference is night and day and it took me all of 5 minutes to install them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LFVKHY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NJybzb1WFRYR4

Or do fast rings

Do you mean these?
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1421962066&sr=8-5&keywords=alpine+type+r+6.5++3+way

here that should work

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-Se10-10-Inch-Sealed-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0007TJDG6/

Or

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Subwoofer-Sealed-Automotive-Enclosure/dp/B002CEIMDY

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-BRS40-Replacement-individually/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503958993&sr=1-1&keywords=raw%2Bspeakers&th=1

Taken from a previous post

> I'm planning on getting the Fi Q 12 sealed w/1100 RMS Hifonics amp powering it and have these as my speakers

Here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PV6F8I2?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.

Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)

Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component

Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial

Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT

What about this setup?

amp with DSP

speakers 1

speakers 2

These.

So I'm thinking This amp with 2 sets of These speakers. I had and Alpine amp and speakers in my old truck and I never had any issues with them and they had no distortion when I cranked them up. I figure I might as well replace them all at once.

I have the same 2015 unlimited sport and the speakers were pretty bad.

I have this amp mounted under the driver dash to the left of the brake pedal. There is a little cross bar. I fabricated a bracket out of an old steel computer case and some rivets.

4x of the Kicker 77KICK10. Those are a direct fit part and improve the quality by far even without the amp

4x of these 3.5" speakers to replace the stock paper crap.

After replacing all of these, this sounds great for me. I also have a 10" sub that runs off the same amp in the back that I can remove at any time when I choose to take my hard top off. I just googled some Jeep speaker replacement and managed to do it all myself.

This is plenty loud so that if I had the top off and going down the highway I would have no problem hearing anything, no crackling or distortion. let me know if you have any particular questions

So you have these? They look a little more complicated to install. If that's not them, what do you have? Remember I'm an audio-newbie, so anything that involves an amp or extra wiring confuses me.

As far as I can tell, you can fit 6 1/2" speakers in the front doors with a bracket. That ' 3 1/2" ' speaker you're looking at in the door might actually be something odd-ball like 2 1/2". The rear deck is indeed 6 1/2", not sure where you got 4" from.

If you have the Harman Kardon audio system you might have a couple shallow-depth 6x9s in the trunk under the rear deck, but even so I'd leave those alone.

Start with the front. I'd go with this. The woofers are 3 ohm impedance, and your OEM woofers are either 2 or 3 ohms. If you get something that's 4 ohms you're going to lose some power. (This is irrelevant if you're doing something with the head unit / amp though)

Edit: You can snag that Infinity component set on Amazon for $70 cheaper, but I think you'll need to buy the mounting brackets separately

The foam rings are called Fast Rings. If you've already got the door apart, they aren't much added cost, and can help some. https://www.amazon.com/FAST-Rings-3-Piece-Speaker-Enhancement/dp/B016LFVKHY

Try running your current vehicle with the fader turned all the way to the front, so the back speakers are off, and see if you can live with it for a week. Some don't notice, others find the lack of fill in the rear troublesome. It's personal preference.

In my opinion, you made a mistake with those speakers. Those are some of the more harsh speakers on the market.

Not to mention that they don't even have a legit Crossover, they are basically coaxial speakers not attached together. for another 20$ you could have gotten the extremely acceptable Polk-DB6501 component set which has nice mellow tweeters, as well as a crossover that gives you three tweeter level options.

I know i'm not helping much by telling you that you got bad speakers, but thats what i suspect.

But, one other possibility is that you have some funky wiring going on... did you use the stock wiring? I'm not sure what the situation is with that car, but if if came with a separate tweeter/woofer component set stock, they may have some sort of crossover built into the wiring. You might try running some new wire and making sure they are wired correctly.

I'm looking at putting these in the doors. Trying to upgrade from these. The oval component speaker market is hella limited- slim pickins.

 

I also have an 8" sub, no name brand, will likely replace the driver with a shallow mount ??? brand woofer (haven't got that far yet- doing this all on a budget, so it's one thing at a time).

Update- I picked up this system: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ill let everyone know how it is.
Question: Does anyone know where the hell the front most Bose speaker is? It is 3.5 inch but I legit have no idea where it is