Reddit mentions: The best car audio subwoofers

Okay everybody, sit down. Class has started. Getting into car audio can be the most intimidating thing to start. So many brands, power ratings, trying to find a compatible amp. On top of that, a lot of companies lie about there power ratings. Ok so lets start with subwoofers. When looking on amazon you will see a lot of subwoofers claiming RMS and max power. RMS is the rated watts that a subwoofer can handle. Max power rating is just a fake number companies will make to make there product sound better than it is. ( Heres an example Pyle PLPW10D 10-Inch 1000 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JV7CRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nixzybQY8YTXY ) notice how 1000 watts is in the title. If you put 1000 watts rms on that sub it wont last one min. Its rms rating says 500 watts rms. Now that subwoofer linked above is a pyle of crap. Stay away from these brands (Pyle, Planet Audio, Boss not to be confused with Bose) these are better choices ( Rockford, Pioneer, Kicker, Alpine) balls to the walls best choice ( Skar Audio, Sundown Audio) there are tons of brands but those are most common. A good rule of thumb is looking at the size of the magnet. The bigger the magnet the more power it can handle and usually better quality. (Example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DvxzybSARDNC5 ) long story short is you get what you pay for. 30$ 500 watt sub looks to good to be true because it is. Build quality is junk and its going to sound like crap. Now if you want a good thump. I recommend staying in the 300-500 watts rms range. It wont kill the budget and you can get some decent bass. Anything higher than that, you will start to get into the car rattling range. Now back to subwoofer specs, you will see different types of ohms and voice coil configurations on subwoofers. Ohms is resistance. Lower the ohm=easier power flow, so more power can be delivered easier. Now voice coil config can get confusing. There can be one of two options on a subwoofer, single voice coil And dual voice coil. A SVC is simply one positive and one negative terminal on a subwoofer. When you have a DVC you have two positive and two negative terminals. Now the reasoning for this is with a DVC sub you can change the ohm rating on the sub itself with different wiring configurations. You can change a dual 2 ohm subwoofer to 1 ohm wiring in parallel ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) thats one example, you can raise, lower or keep it at original ohm. See with a single voice coil sub, you cant change the ohms because there are only one set of positive and negative terminals BUT you can use an identical sub and use its set of terminals to change the ohms of both subs ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2-SVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) now the whole reasoning for this is because at different ohm ratings, you will get a different output on your amp. (Remember lower ohm= higher power) so heres an example ( i'm making these numbers up btw) a amp could have these listed... 8 ohm 50 watts, 4ohm 100 watts , 2ohm 200 watts, 1ohm 400 watts. Now lets say you have a dual 4 ohm 200 watt sub. You would want to wire it in parallel to change the ohms to 2 and then you will get 200 watts, which is what my fake sub was rated for. Now if you have the same sub but was a single voice coil, that wouldn't be the best amp for that sub. It would only receive 100 watts when its rated for 200. So it would be recommended to find a more compatible amp. I shouldn't have to say this but you obviously want to match watts rms with your subwoofer and amp. They say to stay in 80% - 125% of rated power of the sub. So that pretty much means if your sub is 350 watts, and you have the ohm configed to deliver 400 watts then thats fine. If its a good brand and has good build quality you can push it farther than its rated for. Like sundown audio subwoofer can be pushed 300 watts more than rated and run perfectly fine. You will know when your pushing your sub two hard. It will either make a clunk meaning it bottomed out. (It moved in or out to far) or you will smell something burning. Thats your voice coil starting to heat up. If that was to happen, turn down the bass and let it cool and adjust bass level. Now lets talk about good amplifiers, there probably going to be the most expensive item in car audio. Rule of thumb for amps is to not be cheap and don't fall for all the eye candy. The bigger and heavier the amp, the more believable the power rating is. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00011KLXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eIyzybKGRQYJV ) something that small is no way going to output "3000" watts, you probably wouldn't get more than 500 watts. Alot of cheapo brands will put lights and crazy colors to try and attract you to there products. Thats usually a sign of junk. Make sure you look at rms power and reviews will usually say if it was a good buy. Companies like boss will even lie about rms. Now subwoofer amps are called class D amplifiers. There usually two channel or mono block meaning how many terminals there will be on the amp. You can use a multi channel amp on one sub if its strong enough. Also if your planning on wiring your sub to one ohm, make sure the amp is stable to run at one ohm. There is also bridging. When you take one positive of one channel and one negative of the other channel of the amp. So it combines the power of both channels. Amp needs to be compatible to do that. I recommend getting an amp with a bass knob but any decent brand should have one included. A good method of finding true rms of an amp is adding up fuse ratting and multiplying it by voltage. So my amp claims 1500 watts. It has no fuse but has an inline fuse by the battery ratted for 100 amps 100x12=1200 watts. 12 being average voltage, that number can fluctuate to 13.5. My amp is actually compatible up to 16 volts. 100x16=1600 watts, Most amps being only 80-90% efficient = 1500 watts. Also get a decent amp kit, if you get cheap junk, you can choke your amp. If the cables going from the battery to the amp are two small your amp can short out. And for the box, build one. Many sub manufacturers will have a recommendation for there sub, and have all the dimensions listed. If thats not your thing then you can buy one but they can be expensive. I recommend a ported box over sealed. I think thats about everything....if you have any questions, i'm here to help. Don't get discouraged, if you take the time to do it right, your 400 watts system will sound better than your buddies 3000 watt system.

I forgot to mention this but its better to over power then to under power your subwoofer. If your amp is 300 watts and your sub wants 500 then your going to have a number of problems. Your amp will produce alot of distortion and it will be under alot of stress. It will also get hot enough to cook on. Not only that but it will also damage your sub. Think about like this, your sub if built to move farther than the amp is capable of pushing it. This causes clipping and you will get loud popping sounds from your sub.


Also "professional" installers may not be the most trustworthy guys out there. Not saying there all bad but if you show them that you don't know much, they may try to sell you the junk i told you to stay away from at a premium price. The installation really isn't that difficult. Do a some research and it will only take a few hours at most

> https://www.amazon.com/Belva-10-inch-Subwoofer-Prelined-Polyfil/dp/B00CBO0HGK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Ah, judging by the links, you have more space that I initially thought. I really don't care for ported prefab boxes as they tend to have pretty high group delay, meaning they tend to sound boomy. Also they tend to use narrow L ports as a way to keep the ports short enough so they can offer below 40hz tune. It's a compromise they have to deal with. But when ports are too small (internal space wise) they tend to have poor vent velocity which means it'll probably make a chuff noise when you get into higher excursions.

The first link has 39hz tuned port. So it's more SPL than SQ due to it's 1.25 ft3 size. So since ~40hz is common with most music, it'll reach that regularly and be pretty If you want SQ, you'll want low group delay (tight bass) but that often means a huuuuge box. Basically that box will reach it's optimum efficiency at around 39 hz then any frequency below that will cause your subwoofer to lose control called "unloading". That's bad which for that you'll need a subsonic filter set at about 39hz (many amps don't offer a variable filter) So keep that in mind.

The sealed box...ah, much better. Sealed boxes have naturally low group delay which is why they sound so tight. They are smaller and better for SQ...that doesn't mean Ported boxes can't do SQ, they can only if the box is large enough and ports are large and long enough for a proper tuning (32hz tune is usually the most common compromise)

However take note that some people actually prefer looser bass, especially if they like Rap. I personally prefer tight bass even with Rap. But some like it boomy so make sure you know your own tastes. We all have certain sound characteristics (sound signatures) that we prefer. That's why audio is subjective.
Sealed boxes have a natural rolloff depending on size for the sub. But your vehicles cabin gain will basically flatten that out anyway.

Also note that (generally speaking) the +3db's efficiency that ported boxes often have as your music approaches the tuning frequency isn't a huge difference. 10 db's is twice the perceptual loudness. +3 is just where you can start to notice it *edit:( it's noticeable in comparison but nothing to write home about, lets put it that way) so don't consider it as drastic as some make it but if you don't have much amp power, it is something to consider for sure.

So a good ported box and a good sealed box can sound the same until you approach the tuning frequency, that's where the ported box can have that free boost. However, you can use a sealed and then use bass boost BEFORE you adjust your gains. So if you can boost say 35hz +3db's on your amp. Then you would adjust your gain, that way you won't go into clipping when you crank the volume...it's a cheat method to use sealed with benefits of ported however it's not free since you'll need more power than you otherwise would.

Now, is 1 ft3 sealed good for the HO? Yes it'll work well. .5 ft3 is optimal which means Dayton considers this it's size to performance ratio to be adequate. 1 ft3 will give you lower extension in frequency but you may not notice it enough to be a big deal. Larger than 1 ft3 could be iffy, if you go too large it'll sound tubby.

This doesn't seem like it's unsalvageable at all. The Hertz speaks you got look like they're pretty nice, and this amp actually seems really cool if it does what it says on paper.

Like everyone else said, yes, that sub is junk. Putting another, better sub in that box may not really accomplish what you want, either. The thing about subwoofers is that the size of the box you put them in matters. Subwoofer specifications will list the ideal internal volume of the box you put them in, depending on whether or not the box is sealed, ported, or bandpass.

If you don't know the difference it's worth a Google to read up on, but it looks like you have a sealed box, meaning there's no other holes in it. It's a closed box that the speaker is installed into. This tends to be the most common in simple setups.

In your case, if you're looking for something that will sound good and fit under your seat, I'd suggest looking at the Kicker Hideaway powered sub. I was somewhat skeptical of it, but I took a shot on it and installed it in my girlfriend's Subaru wagon under the driver's seat. I'm honestly really impressed with it. For its size, it can put out a huge amount of bass and the sound quality is really good.

Your amp has a sub pre-amp out that could easily be run to a powered sub like this, and it'd probably fit right under the seat in that truck.

Honestly I think you're about 85% of the way to a really nice sounding system, you just need to get the DSP set up properly and solve the subwoofer equation.

This page is showing up on google results now :] Thanks for your detailed response!

Here are some answers I've found:

1. L-Drive puts on full-regen when your foot isn't on the gas. If the HV battery is full, it uses the engine in air-compression mode to achieve a similar engine break. This is by far the fastest way to charge your vehicle, though not the most efficient. If you put it in L and tap the breaks at all, it reduces your breaking efficiency, so from this I'm pretty sure regenerative breaks are the electric motor regening. edit; this is a good way to learn to judge the regen-breaks capability. I think it's in maximum, electric (regen) deceleration in L, when your foot is off the pedal.
   
   
2. The charging port allows for a maximum of 16a, 3.3kwh - however the battery can accept a charge of 145a and ..1305kwh?
   
   
3. There are a distinct set of 'driver' controls and options in the left cluster menu - personalizing keys, auto unlocking and more are all available here.
   
   
4. My car does not have front radar :(
   
   
5. The Personal Key I mentioned which supposedly increased driving efficiency is for the MyFord Mobile app. It allows you to have two drivers which gain their own, unique scores.
   
   
6. I'm hoping that I can pull apart the center console enough to insert the ground effects I want - I also want to tie into the DC jack on the under side of the console, so my console isn't packed.
   
   
7. Side damage is bound to happen, if I can just accept that and keep it confined to the lower side skirting, I'll be golden. The side skirting does replace very readily - you can order the year and color from ford for $125 per side.
   
   
8. All available tax credits are tracked by the government, here: http://www.afdc.energy.gov/fuels/laws/ELEC
   
   --
   
   
9. Subwoofers: On the SE package, you can see where the sub on the TIT package would be. Aftermarket, it looks like my choices are an 8" or 10" "low profile" or "slim" box - ideally self-powered. An Amp will fit on top of the HVB.
   Subs will not fit in the 6x9 punchouts in the package deck. If I want a perfect fit sub, I need to make the housing myself. The Slimline by pioneer looks like it would fit well: Here (this is the 10", they make an 8" which is approximately the size of the speaker.
   
   
10. Warranty - Since I bought my car out of state, I'm going to take it to the dealership ahead of schedule and have it given a once-over. I only have a few thousand more miles under factory warrant and if the warranty works the way I think it does, the dealership would be down to make as much money as possible, finding any problems they can. I want updates to everything (the manual says to contact ford if the dealership won't apply courtesy updates). In this way I can get my oil changed and reset the intelligent life counter as well, gain some peace of mind and get the light ring fixed (does that break often?)

Thanks for the input. I got the sub for $45, nowhere near the pricetag from the site but as I said it was used and the other one from the set blew in my friend's system.

That's great to know about the box too, I'll definitely be making some type of upgrade in the near future.

I'd prefer Amazon as I have a good amount left from a gift card. Do you think one of these options would be a good upgrade?

http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp

Description: Dual 12-inch, Terminator-loaded sealed enclosure
Impedance: 2 ohms
Frequency response (+/- 3 dB): 41 to 150 Hz
RMS power (watts): 400

or

http://www.amazon.com/Dual-BP1204-1100-Watt-Illumination-Subwoofer/dp/B000UTMDOC/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top (I'm iffy on the "Dual" brand, Amazon has mostly good reviews but I've found some very negative reviews elsewhere. I think the Amazon crowd was just "wowed" by the lights)

and finally, this one looks like my best option considering the amp's power but again I'm not sure of the Rockford brand
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1L-2X12-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B001P86T74/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1367392434&sr=1-12&keywords=ported+box+12

Woofer Impedance: (2) 4-Ohm SVC
Internally wired in parallel to create a 2-Ohm amplifier load
Power Handling: 300 Watts RMS
600 Watts Max

---------


The other options are keeping the sub I have and buying a single 12" ported box (maybe something like this), or finally a double 12" ported box and two appropriate 12" subs for the amp. Sorry to just slap a bunch of links and questions in here, I'm really confused after looking around at the options.

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

This is just my opinion, I only have a basic understanding of CarAv stuff, but for 500 you could buy a whole new sub and amp. I dont know who and how much it is to repair a sub tho, so maybe its a better deal. But from my experience, my MTX Terminators are great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2?pc_redir=1408200639&robot_redir=1

Add a decent amp (250-300) , and theres your 500. Chuck a wiring kit in there too, set aside a full day to set it up and your good!

Just finished installing a 4 channel amp with a ton of help today, took alllll day. And dont rush yourself if you do install it. There are tons of helpful youtube videos out there.

Just my two cents!

EDIT: Heres an ok amp, under 200.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BJF4V9G/ref=pd_aw_sims_7/188-5557484-9874164?pi=SS115&simLd=1

And my amp I use on my Terminators

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Wb4A0iVTrjr/p_236T4250D/MTX-Thunder4250D.html

Hope this helped!

First I would say that these subs are great. I've had p3 12's and they slam pretty hard.

Second, can your electrical system handle 2 amps pushing 800 watts? Do you have a stock battery? Stock alternator? Upgraded big three? You might wanna consider doing this before loading your electrical system with ~130 extra amps.

Third, vehicle are you building in? Will you have enough space to build a box large enough to house 2 15" inch subwoofers?

Finally, here's what I would do in your situation.

• Buy two more [P1S4-12's](http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P1S4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004TATPBW/ref=sr_1_2?
  s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414689659&sr=1-2&keywords=p1+s4)
  
  
• buy a single R1200, wire the subs to them like this so they'll be seeing a 1 ohm load and the amp will be spitting out as much as its got
  
  
• build them a nice ported box, or buy a prefab for 3 12's
  
  I think going from 1 12 off 200 watts to 3 12's off ~1200 will definitely provide you with the more bass you crave without completely raping your electrical system. This route will also be a lot cheaper than your plan. Let me know if you have any questions.
  
  Edit: I would like to explain something that I wish I would have understood when I was first getting started. Subs and amps are not magic. They operate off electricity that doesn't just materialize from thin air. There is only a set amount of electricity alternating from the battery in your vehicle. Therefore, we can't just plug up high power amplifiers and expect everything to work out perfectly! We must be efficient with the amount of power we have, which is why you should get a nice box and focus on other means of proficiency.

depends on the 15s, some like a lot of air, most of the ones I've seen(including CompS) want a minimum of 3'. My single 15 has a bit over 4 to itself. Also a box like that is the same as buying or building 2 seperate boxes since they use a single port for each side and not a shared port. Like these look ok for singles. I like the separate boxes because you can move them around and if you need just a little trunk space you can remove one and still keep a little bass. in a previous car I had them like this and loved the convenience, and also miss having at least a little trunk compare to this lol. Also my box and sub weigh over 100lbs which is a PITA to get in and out of the trunk by myself.

I tend to go a bit of overkill on amps because it's better for the sub to be overpowered than it is to be underpowered. It's easy to hear when subs are bottoming out, but not so easy to hear when an amp is clipping. I'd probably stick with the MB Quart amp and if you have self control go with the comps, or save another $100 and go with this fosgate box which is 1Ω final and 1200w would make it very happy. Also 1200w is a lot easier on your car's electrical system than 2000(120A vs 200A). Lots of tough decisions, it depends more on what you're looking for. A pair of the MBQuart dual 4Ω Subs with the quart amp would go well together as well, but between the quarts and Fosgate P3s, I'd choose the P3s and they are about the same price. I'm a little biased, but for $140 each you can't go wrong with these. Here's a vid of my old 15" version of the same sub with a little over 500w going to it. My RE 15(same 600w rating) lived about 3 years with about 500w(MRP-M500 with 590w birth sheet) then went for about 4 months on my M110(1300w+ birth sheet) and didn't die until I intentionally tried to destroy it the day my Fi came. In the $200 each range I'd say Sundown SAs, in the $300 range, I love my Fi.

Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.

And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html

I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.

Could you please include your vehicle's year, make, and model in future posts?

If you want my honest opinion, no speakers you get for $60/pair are going to be better than the Bostons you have now, unless yours are straight up blown and rattling. And since you have the Boston system, there's probably a factory amp which may or may not use DSP. Point being, you already think those speakers sound pretty good. So add a subwoofer, pull the bass setting on the head unit down a click, and you'll be able to crank those speakers a touch more. As for sub, the Fosgate P300 is recommended here a lot and for good reason. Solid performer and it's an easy to install all-in-one solution. Easy to remove the whole thing quickly, should you need to trade the car in or just make room for luggage.

Start with the box. On the description is says...

> Enclosure Volume: 1.69 Cu. Feet/ Mounting Depth: 4-1/2"

I'm 95% sure this means total volume, meaning 0.85ft^3 per side. The Depth is also key.

What this all means is you need a flat sub that plays well in a 0.85ft^3 box. I'd recommend these Pioneer 12" flat subs over the Rockford's based on the performance of the 10" versions of the same Pioneer subs I have and the appearance of the Rockford woofers, but the Pioneers are 4 ohm woofers.

As for the amp you posted, it simply doesn't match the subs. Look for something like the Hifonics Brutus or Zeus, or PPI sub amp for around $150-200. Look for Class D architecture and a remote knob. Look for sub amp that can generate at least 1000 watts rms into 1 ohms.

Rockford is a good brand for sub amps, but not the Punch line. The regular Rockford line is a bit pricey but well regarded. The nice Rockford Class D, 1200 watt @ 1 ohm amp is $220 on Amazon Prime.

If you don't have a Big 3 upgrade & good wiring kit you'll not reap the benefits of all the money spent on amps & subs. A big 3 kit costs maybe $30 to DIY, and a good run of 1/0 power cable & accessories fuses, is less than about $50. Don't short change performance by not doing basic, necessary upgrades.

I recently overhauled my sound system in my '10 Civic SI because either the stock HU or amp was going out, and the stock sub gave out. I tried my best to stay budget friendly and I'm more than happy with my setup.

AMP I got from a friend as an open box unit, for $80.

Front and rear Speakers $40x2, came with mounting hardware and wires = $80 total.

Head unit
$70, I think the hardware for install was an additional 30$ = $100 total.

Sub Best buy has it on sale for $50.

Sealed Enclosure $30 from amazon.


That's $340 total and I did the install myself. I'm not too big into car audio all of the items I choose were due to customer reviews/ decent price point. Hope this helps.









Edit: Just realized, you referring to digital screen unit meaning a double din. Ignore all that, at that budget just get a double din and better door speakers, and upgrade as you go.

Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OKYQzbAT9VST5


Thats what i have. I didnt run anything to clean up the signal but i did isolate the signal wire from the power and ground. I ran sheilded speaker wire from the passenger B pillar and underneath the back seat cushion. I ran the power through the cabin, tucked underneath the carpet and door seals.

The sub is smart enough to turn on and off by detecting signal from the head unit.


I forgot to mention the best part. The harness just clips into the sub so removal is super easy. I have it attached to the false floor and i can easily pull it in and out for track days.

You'll have to be thrifty @ $500, but I think you can put something together that sounds good.

• $250 - Small sealed sub and amp
  
• $250 - Two sets of component door speakers and 4-channel amp
  
• $100 - wiring kit, harness adapters, etc.
  
• $100 - cd deck with Bluetooth to pair your phone to.
  
  I have a 5-channel amp in my truck with 4x 75w (only using two channels here) and 1x 350 w for the sub. It's plenty loud. The 5 channel is nice for simplicity, but doesn't leave any room to grow if you decide you need a bigger sub or something.
  
  People talk about powered subwoofers on here once in a while, you'll find recommendations if you search. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/
  
  You might need to play with the sub position to get it to sound good in teh van (might resonate at some frequency in the back corner but sound better a few feet forward, etc. TBD. If you give it a few feet of cord, you can move it to the back fo the van when you''re listening to music ouside the back doors.
  
  These are affordable and sound good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/
  https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65
  
  

Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...

Let's do this a little bit differently.

Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.

Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.

Do this instead:

Same brand but higher model

With this amp

and this wiring kit.

Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size

No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.

All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.

Lets talk some talk.

Good

Better

Best

Going with "Good" you're looking at a simple subwoofer upgrade.
You're going to need about 500+ Watts RMS to overcome your back seat. Then You're looking at a ported box with maybe a 12" or 2-12" subs that can each handle good power. Lets go with amazon's stuff and a Single 12" for good measure.

The Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 @ $130
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12-1200-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050827&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+p3

An Atrend Box the 12SQV $65 http://www.amazon.com/Single-Vented-Square-Box-Enclosure/dp/B0007XV5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050938&sr=8-1&keywords=12sqv

The Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp @ $120
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051007&sr=8-1&keywords=r500x1d

A REAL COPPER 5 Ga Wire Kit: XD-ACS60 $58 http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-XD-ACS60-Amplifier-Connection/dp/B0041MU7B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051265&sr=8-1&keywords=xd-acs60

A PROPER Line Out Converter LC2i $68
http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01EDFPNSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051367&sr=8-1&keywords=LC2i

So, This is the MINIMUM for just adding one sub, Without going with the crap out there.

You are currently at $441 of your $800 Budget Limit.

Lets calculate installation.

1. Amplifier Installation: $120
   
2. Line Out Converter Installation: $72
   
3. Load/Wire Subwoofer into Box: $24
   
4. Disable ANC: $48
   
   Labor is going to be around $264
   
   Labor + Parts = $705
   
   I have no idea how to make your car better with $95 except maybe put some sound deadening in your trunk.
   
   Keep in mind, these prices are at AMAZON's.... Not retail.
   
   $700-800 Sounds like a lot, until you realize that GOOD Labor isn't cheap.
   
   If you think that's expensive, Go ask your dealership how much it costs to replace your alternator... JUST your alternator.
   
   
   

Thanks

Im still new to brands, havnt been in this hobby for that long to absorb all the reviews. What are the cheap/unreliable brands that i should stay away from? Im tempted to buy cheap but dont want it to blow up and smoke lol i want something stable.

I was thinking something like this for subs -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B06XDHP82F?th=1

And slap on some kinda amp like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004S4XKYC/ref=psdc_2230642011_t2_B00T3QBLYG?th=1

This vs. This

I would rather custom build, but if I can save $$ from a kit I'll go with that.

The alphasonik kit is pretty impressive - two 12's in a box with an 800 watt amp (1600 max) for $177. I had some alphasonik subs back in the day and they hit surprisingly hard. Any opinions?

Thanks for this info. I think it may be in my best interest to find a more powerful single sub. And I like the idea of keeping a little trunk space. this sundown sub is what I’ve been looking at, and to keep my current amp for the time being

hahaha wow okay, I'm looking for more of a balanced system, but I do want the bass to be noticeable for sure. My total budget is looking to be around 500-550. that is including buying a box and all the connecting wires. I know people who can help install it so no money there. I play much more dubstep and rap, basically nothing else. This is the box I plan to get.

You'd get better sound quality putting a 2 way component set up front and leaving your rears stock. This is what I'd go with on your budget.

Headunit $230

Sub $60

Box $45

4 channel amp $135

Front components $120

Total is $590, so a little over your $600 budget after wiring and adapters. If you run this you would power your front components using the first 2 channels of the amp, and you'd power the sub by bridging channels 3 and 4. You'd keep your rears stock and fade your sound all the way to the front for the best sound quality. This would be a pretty nice budget sound quality system.

For the fronts you would just have to buy 6x8 to 6.5 adapters for your vehicle and mount the tweeters somewhere, usually either your doors or a-pillars.

Thanks for the response. Looking at the Subwoofers with good ratings I found 3 models that I think would be good for me.

I could go with 2 of these

Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch Subwoofer 4 SVC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036MOQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I25mybM8C1RZ8

Or 1 of these

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u55mybA45BVQA

Or 1 of these

12W0V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W0V3 Series Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5ZCDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v65myb8P643ME.

All of the configurations above come to around the same price. I'm thinking one higher quality subwoofer would sound better than 2 of lower quality, correct? I'm planning on using a sealed box. Which one of these would be the best choice?

Are you going to have rear speakers? or just fronts? and run 3 channel amp?

If you are going to have front and rear speakers. I would go with the following set up.

amp https://www.skaraudio.com/products/sk-m9005d-car-amplifier

and

sub https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX3002-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=sr_1_40?crid=2GIYJPUPWZ95Y&keywords=10+loaded+subwoofer+box&qid=1555076614&s=gateway&sprefix=10+loaded+subwoofer+box%2Caps%2C169&sr=8-40

​

My reasoning is this. If you want space, this sub box can be placed firing down, and you can put stuff on top of it. And also by going with a 5 channel amp you can just need 1 power wire from the battery to the 1 amp, with your set up your going to have to split that wire, one to the amp and one to the powered sub. And this still meets your budget. you can probably find a cheaper 5 channel amp, or a 3 channel if your going that route. but skar is awesome for the price and the punch. i've been really happy with my skar amps.

Thanks for all the responses guys. Definitely loving this subreddit, great community to be a part of. So I decided on a two-way speaker set up with a sub/amp enclosure for the trunk, and eventually in place of the soft top with a little fabrication. Speakers, sub, plus some speaker baffles and 8 gauge wire kit for the sub. I'll make sure to post a follow up, once everything's fine tuned.
edit - words

They would be compatible, but I think there are better deals out there.

If you are looking to get into car av, I think you will be much happier with this sub (you can get the 10,12, or 15 version. You will want the 2 ohm version though) for $200 and this amp for $130. You will just need to build or buy a box. If you have the means to build a box, you can look at CAF’s free box design (link to design in description)z you might be able to pay a cabinet builder to make one if you don’t have the means yourself. That brings you from $350 budget to $330, you just need a box.

It's a great price compared to the cost of the subs/box alone, however overall you can do much better for the same price. Keep in mind that this isn't a manufacturer's kit, its just an amp and wiring that someone decided to sell with a dual sub and box combo.

Here's an alternative:

JBL GTO1214 x2: $160

Pioneer GM-D9601: $170

Knu KCA 4 gauge wiring: $35

Dual 12" Box: $42

Total: $407

IMO those JBL subs are hands down the best value on the market.

Amp

Sub

Box

You won't need a high level converter with this amp, but you will need a nice install kit

The sub and box go together, so I ignored "must come in box" because either you're installing yourself and you can put screws in wood, or you are taking it to an install shop who can do it for you.

If that is somehow really beyond your abilities, something like this will work. (still need a dedicated amplifier)

I have that exact sub but I'm running it off a JL 1000/1d mono block amp. I had it in an enclosed box first and eventually moved to ported box. The ported box makes it much louder. Can't comment much on the amp you have in momd but 1000 watts is more than enough power. It's in my 2011 Mazda 3 with an aftermarket headunit and it sounds great, all that's left is to get rid of the rattles this summer! Just thought I'd share my experience with ya. Hope it helps.

Edit: here's the box I chose for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zaVOAbD953G1C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=AIIZF0ROPFSE5&psc=1

I'm about to buy 1 sundown sa 12 and a box and amp after reading the reviews. This link is to a 750 watt. It says 4 ohm, but in the description it says "RE: 7/07 ohms" What am I missing? Does it mean that it's 4 ohm if wired in parallel? I went to best buy and test drove some subs the guy had and I think I'd like something ~ 750W so if I bought a sundown sa 12 750W, what amp do you think would be good with either impedance however I decided to wire it?

By the looks of your post, you're focusing on adding a subwoofer to your car, and the most important piece of advice I can give is:
BUY ONLINE!

I have 2 JL W3v3's powered by a JL 500/1 series amp. I made my own box after finding the suggested dimensions online. Total cost was right around $550 about 3 years ago. You can get a really good setup for much less than that online Installation is fairly simple and there are plenty of How-To guides on the internet if you're unsure.

http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-Series-TNE212D-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=pd_cp_e_2

I just helped a good friend of mine set that up and it sounds pretty damn good for the price.

One question, are you looking for sound production, or sound quality?

Well here's the plan.. plan to just have front speakers atm, since I'm told rear aren't necessary with a subwoofer. Plan to get these speakers powered by this powerpack. I drive a 99 camry sedan, but really don't want to have to replace the alternator from all of this.. maybe I should find a less powerful subwoofer or just go with the 500w RMS? All I want is some good clean bass for some electronic toons. Also, was planning on getting a ported box

DIY. While not top tier stuff like SVS or HSU, you can stitch together a truly awesome sub for very little money these days.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-W12K6D4-V2-Subwoofer-Compliant/dp/B07C8KV239/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1537516086&sr=8-7&keywords=rockville+sub

Surprise surprise! This sub has been reviewed quite a bit in the car audio scene. It's quite a bit better than the price would imply.

https://www.amazon.com/Belva-12-inch-Subwoofer-Prelined-MDFS1215/dp/B00EV6ED2A/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1537516271&sr=8-15&keywords=12+sealed+subwoofer+box

Good enough for sealed. With a sealed box you will never hit the "movie" lows, so you don't have to worry about convoluted ports and whatnot. Maybe throw some bracing in if you are worried about cab resonance.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU1000-BEHRINGER-iNUKE/dp/B00LGNFALY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537516541&sr=8-1&keywords=inuke+nu1000dsp

Only does an actual 600 watts into a 4 ohm load bridged, but it has fairly powerful DSP and you probably don't actually need more than 600 watts peak. And it's only $200, though you might want to mod in a couple 120mm computer fans for quiet operation.

$350, plus fans, cables, bolts, and some sealant. So $400 and a bit of elbow grease, and you'd have a sub that would shake the hell out of most living rooms. You could also get a shallow mount box and sub for roughly the same price and still get big bass out of a little box;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016IH7XD0/ref=sspa_dk_detail_8?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B016IH7XD0

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BXE8ZHG/ref=twister_B01MYY0ZTM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Same Behringer amp. Or you can use the savings and get something nicer, like a Crown XLS1002.

Sorry it took so long to reply, i was eating dinner.

1.Sealed enclosures. I think 1.15 cu ft of airspace for each sub, and both displace about 0.073 cu ft. I cant find where it talks about minumum airspace required.
2.no
3.all set to low, however i tried messing with them by setting the gain on the highest setting and got almost nothing out of it. Also tried setting everything to high, but again nothing.
4. tried it without any setting changed, and then with the bass set on high. I should mention it is a factory head unit.
5. Yes. I sanded it down and I'm pretty sure its all the way to the metal.

Haha, here's the box link. I'll check out that other sub and edit this in a second.

Edit: I'll think on choosing between these two or the 8" linked above until Saturday when I get my paycheck and will have enough for all of this to be ordered at once. Honestly I just don't know enough to come to a conclusion, I guess I'll compare the frequency and such specs? Reviews for both are great and I know the JBL brand (never owned, just recognize), which I've heard is important in car audio (the brand).

http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/item/ev3-series

is this what you mean by e series?

Also, can you recommend me speakers for my car? I only see wiring/head unit/amp/Subs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=psdc_1294866011_t2_B00J8SV72A?th=1

4.5 rating with 1000 reviews, #1 best seller, 2 12inch w/box, good or no???

https://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-ZRX1216-1D-Subwoofer-Amplifier-1200-Watt/dp/B00T3VMUD2/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1485393252&sr=1-1&keywords=hifonics+amp

Looks good ?

Sorry, I should have clarified. You're looking at the sub! It's below the amp, which is mounted on a carpet covered board. The sub fires downward. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/?coliid=I24Y5KGVWITD0G

And price... sheesh. I spent ~$380 for the installers to do a shitty job, then had them give me a free amp kit, so that was a nice "savings". I already had the amp & LC2i from my previous car. Solid state relay and resistor was $130 total on mouser.com. Plus various wire terminals, heat skrink connectors, fuses, velcro, black sub box carpeting... all small things but they add up.

My advice would be to do lots of research: learn how to properly splice wires, where to place fuses, know how to test that your circuits are working as expected with a multimeter, yada yada... OR find a car audio installer you can trust that's worked on model 3's before. If you want to DIY, I suggest reading the thread I linked to. Lots of people far smarter than me.

Just trust me on this one you will absolutely love it SUBWOOFER

My Item much thanks

Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.

http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM

So basically my setup will be that box,

Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001

Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS

Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105

Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU

Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!

I recommend a powered sub! I just put this in my LJ: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and I love it! Didn't even replace the other speakers and it sounds so much better! With the top on, this thing POUNDS the inside of the Jeep, so much that I've had to turn it down when playing EDM. With the top off, even at highway speeds, the bass comes through and just makes everything sound better. I was able to run a high pass filter for the overhead and dash speakers taking the pressure off of them, making them sound louder and crisper.

This is of course an alternative to adding an amp and messing with everything, which is more hassle, more hardware to hide, more wires to run, and more money to spend. Let me know if youve got any questions.

Thank you! Appreciate the suggestions greatly. I was able to find 2 12"s for $150 and from what I've heard these are pretty dang good. Would they work with that amp you've suggested?



MTX Audio Terminator Series TNE212D 1,200-Watt Dual 12-Inch Sub Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zd5RCb37NTMWF

I'll be in Jacksonville from May 25 - 28, then leaving back for Alabama Monday morning. If you can get all of this before then and want to drive to the Mandarin area of Jacksonville on Friday before noon, I can help you get it installed.

• Surge Installer Series Amp Installation Kit (8 Gauge, 1,000 Watts)
  
• Stinger SGW9920 9 Conductor Speedwire 20ft Roll Blue
  
• AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control
  
• Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure *or 10 inch.
  
  Edit: that's everything I used, minus some zip ties, electrical tape, and quick splice connectors. Regardless of if im able to help or not, those items will get your system running. Also, my Florida trip is about an 80% go, so there's a small chance I wont be there.

Check out the Rockford Fosgate p300. It is a powered sub that comes in a 10" or 12" for a few bucks more. I just got the 12" and it is awesome. More bass than I need. I got the sub and wiring kit for right around $200. I went with this because both versions have incredibly positive reviews, the price didn't break my budget, it doesn't take up a huge amount of space, and it was my first sub install so having a single unit seemed easier.

I did not know of this company before your comment but unfortunately it looks like the r53 isn't supported. I found a box at a dodgey audio shop here in town for 50 bucks that seems to fit the bill. It's available on amazon for 35 and free ship but I'm sometimes impatient and wanted bass in my life again. Thanks for the suggestion at any rate.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013N0UCQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1420002811&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

A bandpass/ported box will give you more rumble and boom while a sealed box will give you a more clean knock. After owning a bandpass box for two years, switching over to sealed was a great choice. Recently bought this sealed box and couldn't be happier.

​

BBox apparently makes a good bandpass box as well, however can't say I've tried.

Item | Price

--|:--
Alpine Type-R SWR-12D2 Subwoofer | $142
NVX JAD1200.1 Amplifier + Installation Kit | $305
NVX True Spec 1/0 Gauge Big 3 Amp Wiring Kit | $70
BBox E12SV 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | $40
Total | $557

That should be a good start. That gets your a basic enclosure (you might be happy with that, you might want to consider building a custom one or having one built), the subwoofer, amplifier, wiring to install the amplifier, and wiring to upgrade your battery and alternator cables.

in that case since you have a small car I'd suggest a shallow 10", something along these lines would probably work well, although I'd get a regular box.

With subs the box is key so a bigger box would give you more bass but if space is an issue then I think this would be ok

Either way, any subwoofer will make a huge difference! Cannot recommend crutchfield enough either, they have a ton of guides as well if you want to install it yourself, which isn't that difficult - just takes a while.

[Subs] (http://www.amazon.com/MTX-Terminator-TNE212D-200-Watt-Enclosure/dp/B001JECAM2)

[Amp] (http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-MRV-M500-Mono-subwoofer-amplifier/dp/B00BMR7UPS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1383005622&sr=1-1&keywords=alpine+mrv-m500)

Wire

If you have Prime all this will be under $300. If you don't I have no idea what it will be as I don't see the normal Amazon price. But this will provide very nice strong low end. Good starting base.

Will do! :) when you say P1, are you referring to this combo: Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Hzy2tb07YN0CV


Or this: Rockford Fosgate P1-2X12 500 Watts Dual Rms Subwoofer Enclosure by Rockford Fosgate http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V9GR62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_1Ay2tb1KTZ020 because I don't think that would fit in my car... Hahaha

So I have a 15" Soundqubed 1200W RMS subwoofer being powered with a soundqubed 1200w amp. The sub and box are so heavy in my trunk, and I honestly don't really want to listen to it loud because it hurts my hearing.

I am wanting to go with a smaller and more light weight set up. I am torn between getting an under the seat Rockford Fosgate subwoofer, this one to be exact: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-PS-8-Underseat-Subwoofer/dp/B00Y3WKUX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522712591&sr=8-1&keywords=underseat+subwoofer+rockford+fosgate&dpID=51c8j4HS70L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

But then I am worried it might not be enough bass, and so I was thinking about getting a loaded enclosure and either 10" or 12", something like this https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522712633&sr=8-2&keywords=rockford+fosgate+loaded+enclosure&dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Right now I have 2 kicker tweeters up from, and a 6.5" kicker 2-way speaker 60W rms each in each door. They are powered by an amp and sound really good, I just need some bass to compliment them.

Any advice on the under the seat sub? Should I get a loaded 10 or 12 inch over it, and if so...the 10 or 12? Thanks.

I don't have a spare tire in my Renegade so I took off the false floor in the back, and the thin layer above the styrofoam you're talking about, as well as all the styrofoam and stuffed this guy in between the peg that's there to hold the spare tire in place and the curved wall of the tire well. The floor panel fits flush on top of it. You can't even tell the sub is in there if the stereo is off. Sounds great too.

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

Mannn, you're gonna send me down a rabbit hole aren't you. That sounds very interesting. As an alternative I found this custom build: https://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/509-Another-Sub-Installation/page2

And I've had this in my Amazon wish list forever as something that should fit under the load floor without removing the spare: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9L28AbQPQWH9M

Have you looked into the P3s or the more budget friendly P2s? Jl also makes some nice subwoofers like the w3s.

youll need around $100 for install so youre looking more at around $200 for the rest.

check Craigslist first and see if you can find a sub and amp. check the sidebar for recommended brands and stay away from cheap stuff like Boss, Pyramid, Pyle, Rockville etc..

another option is to buy sub+amp sets. like this Rockford Fosgate. something like this wont rattle the block but itll sound good in your car.

Ok, I think I'm reading it right..

Would this Be a good ported box, as far as dimensions go?

Or would it be better to get a vented box?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8PD8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464956653&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=4134ADBa8vL&ref=plSrch

I can attest to the fact that this sub is can take a beating from newbies. It's got plenty of power handling and it's a great value. When i was a bass head i ran two powerbass 12 inch competition subs and they refused to die. You could also go with the 12 inch variant http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00INA8XJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957007&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=powerbass+subwoofer&dpPl=1&dpID=41xxvDO8hWL&ref=plSrch which will be MARGINALLY louder, play a little bit lower (frequencies), but it will take up more room in your trunk.

For the box, i would go ported. It will maximize your volume output and also let you smell if you're burning up your sub. This guy should be fine http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0013MWT9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464956763&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=10+inch+ported+subwoofer+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51hYLJphMpL&ref=plSrch

The amplifier is the trickiest piece. You want an amp with lots of power, but buying from a reputable brand is super important in this hobby. If you buy a cheap amp it my say "10'000 jigawatts for $50!!!) but really it's only gonna put out 100 watts and then die in a month. The amp is usually the most expensive item in a build. You want your amp to have more power than your sub can take, because if you push an amp too hard it will break your subwoofer. I would really recommend this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003AILWGK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1464957714&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ap1V91JdL&ref=plSrch but you should be ok with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464957802&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+fosgate+power+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ib%2BxysflL&ref=plSrch as long as you don't push it too hard.

Hit me up with any questions

If u want 2 subs which I would recommend, you can get 2 mtx tn 12 inside a premade box for 150, then buy that same Rockford amp and a wire kit and if u have a stock headunit, a loc

amp
subs and box
wire kit
line out converter, if u don't have rca's from headunit

This is the best bang for your buck and its relatives super cheap, the is practically what I have expect I fucked up and didn't get the premade box. If your not looking to win competitions but want cheap loud good bass, get these

First, replace the head unit. You can do this for less than $100. Example: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130X6800BS/Pioneer-DEH-X6800BS.html?tp=5684&avf=Y order this and you'll get the dash kit and wiring harness for free.

Next, add some bass. Get this subwoofer/amp combo, it's the best you'll get on a budget. With a new head unit, you'll get RCA outputs for the sub.

You should be good to go from there.

An alternative option is this for the sub and sub amp:

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-10-Amplified-Subwoofer/dp/B007AQ2W2Q

If you can stretch it, this will blow away the skar monoblock and pioneer sub, and comes in a custom designed enclosure for the Rockford sub. I am a pretty big fan of this one for a bass package.

I think you might need to spend at least another $100. My daughter has this and it’s pretty awesome as far as powered subs go.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B007AQ2W6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520480494&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=rockford+punch+300&dpPl=1&dpID=51gr0hNb2TL&ref=plSrch

Does this budget include an amp? How about the enclosure?

If you're trying to do all of this for $150 (NEW) then something like this RF powered, loaded enclosure would probably be the best you can do. Wiring will be extra.

I ordered a P300 by Rockford Fosgate about a year ago. It's a powered enclosure and not a separate amp + subwoofer.

I had it installed at a local Radio Active and they tapped into the factory amp. It hits well enough honestly. I find I don't need a crazy amount of bass for small hatchbacks. I probably should have mounted it to the side because it does take up quite a bit of trunk space.

Hello all. Hopefully this is right place to post this but I'm considering getting [Rockford Fosgate P300](Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7eMlybWSAD857)
For my 2011 F150 super crew. Anyone have any opinions on these?

Awesome, thank you. I'm sold on the HO. Currently looking at possibly using one of these boxes:

https://www.amazon.com/E10SV-10-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1

or

https://www.amazon.com/Belva-10-inch-Subwoofer-Prelined-Polyfil/dp/B00CBO0HGK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I'll answer most of your questions. The system you are building is actually made to be loud not SQ.

Crutchfield doesn't have your car listed yet, so I won't recommend a speaker unless you are into modifying your door to make them fit. Out of the two speakers you are looking at I would go with the GTO629 just because of the tweeter and the higher sensitivity for the same power.

It will be expensive and loud if you replace all four doors, which I don't recommend. You can get one set of the GTO629 for the front then the 6520 for the rear.

I use this Noico product on my doors and rear and I think it works fine for budget installs. You'll have plenty leftover for the trunk and trunk lid especially if you have a subwoofer back there.

Depending on the kind of music you listen to the speakers alone might be enough, but people really like bass in their cars so I would recommend a subwoofer. Those speakers will not be able to produce sub bass, so you'll be missing out. I use this Pioneer sub and it does a good job of handling sub bass while laying flat and you can put stuff on top of it.

Tie it all together with this NVX amp and you'll be set.

I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

So I just got a 2002 Ford Taurus and I am trying to put some subs in. I just bought two of these 12'' Planet Audio 1800w AC12D. A friend of mine believes that the best box to be able to handle these was this double 12'' Sub Box but what I am thinking is that there is probably an equally as good box but for a lower price. Should I actually get this box or is there another cheaper one that will still work? Perhaps this one would work?

Limited budget. Would it be recommended to go with the JBL speakers in the cheap proposed systems or with the Micca ones plus a ~$100 subwoofer (found https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=9723&AID=11051853&PID=7112509&ref=cj&utm_source=cj&utm_medium=11051853&utm_term=Skimlinks-2617611 and https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TSSWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502901197&sr=1-3&keywords=slim+subwoofer
were recommended)
For some background, they are for a fairly small bedroom and I have diverse music tastes but am particularly into hip-hop and electronic music. Specifically, bass heavy music so I want those low frequencies coming in pretty strong/clear. Thanks for any advice!

I'm rolling on a 2017 STI base and from all the research I did when I was looking into making my sound system not sound like garbage in my car, seems the general consensus has been that these cars all have terrible head units, the stock speakers actually aren't bad (the head unit is just that bad that it makes them sound bad), and that the subaru kicker speakers are far too much money for what they deliver.

Oem audio plus even keeps the stock speakers in their solution. They do replace the tweeters though and obviously add a sub.

A simple under seat subwoofer seems a far better value to get bass into the system. You can even get a kicker for $200.

I'd ultimately suggest replacing the head unit along with getting a simple under seat subwoofer for an more even and overall solution.

I went with the Pioneer 4200NEX and a Cerwin-Vega under seat subwoofer.

Sounds pretty damn good and I now have android auto (and apple carplay if you're into that).

No, it’s 2 ohms in parallel. The SA 12 you linked is 4 ohms per coil, so wired in parallel it’s 2 ohms and in series it’s 8 ohms. The SA12 D2 (this one) is able to be wired down to 1 ohms. So if you get the SA-12 D2, you need a 1 ohms stable amp (the R750 I recommended is perfect) But if you get the SA-12 D4, the JX1000/1 would be nice because the sundown can handle 1000 easy. Here’s some wiring diagrams for dual 4 ohm and dual 2 ohm subs: https://imgur.com/a/KVrt9FM/

The primary issue with the OEM subwoofers is the price. You can pay $3-500 for a new one, and they definitely aren't worth that unless you can find one used.

I installed a Kicker 11HS8 in my 2015 WRX under the passenger seat and it worked great! That car had the base audio system and just adding that sub made a big difference (although I later upgraded the other speakers too).

What do I need to buy to make this subwoofer work with my mixer?

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1563244767&refinements=p_89%3ARockford%2BFosgate&s=car&sr=1-1&th=1

I own this already but it's in my car & I might be able to salvage the cables used I don't think that's all I'll need?

edit: I see that it has an amp built in so I've got that covered but I still need a way to power it.

edit 2: I successfully removed all the cables from my car (what a fucking task that was). So I've got all that.

Rockford Punch

$64.95 dollar subwoofer and performs great. But if you want the true opinion from anyone who buys CarAV, a subwoofer is actually one of the most important items in the car audio world. It takes the stress off the stock speakers which makes them sound clearer. But then again, it all comes down to what you're musical preference is. Great build but if you want some bump in the trunk, you're gonna wanna have a budget higher than $75.

You'll need a sub, box, amp, and wiring kit for the install. You already have an aftermarket radio, so you don't need an LOC. Unless you get a loaded enclosure, I don't see this getting bought and installed all for $300. Labor at Best Buy is going to be $150, maybe cheaper if you buy the junk they have on sale. Here are some suggestions anyways:

PPI monoblock - $100

Rockford p2d4 - $80

10" sealed box - $30

Knukonceptz 8awg ofc wire kit - $36

Total: $246 shipped to your door

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518320964&sr=1-1&keywords=rockford+powered+sub

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1518321247&sr=8-13&keywords=ofc+amp+kit

There isn't a better deal. Dead serious. For what you want to spend, that's as close as I see anything worth owning. The amp kit isn't a fire hazard and the sub/amp is complete shit. It's not amazing, but at least you have an amp, sub and box that are going to work together for under $200 and you can add a few extra bucks to get an amp kit that won't burn your car to the ground or corrode into dust in 6 months.

Both items should have a warranty since the sub is "Sold by and ships from Amazon" and, well, an amp kit shouldn't need a warranty anyway but it's sold by Knu via Amazon so it's as legit as buying from them. Which you could probably do for the same price since it's not eligible for Prime anyway and therefore you can cut out the "middle man" as it were and let Knu keep more of the money.

Might even been enough speaker wire in the kit to use to hook up the high level inputs on the powered sub without buying anything extra and you'll have the RCA interconnects for later if you ever buy an aftermarket head unit or end up using/needing an active line output converter or integration device.

I got a prefab temporarily for my SA-12 that's tuned to 33Hz, and sounds pretty good to me. Atrend Box Link

On Amazon pioneer makes a shallow 10 inch. I had one for my ranger worked great! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_CPh7BbNBAKVGE

If you're trying to keep your budget in the vicinity of $500 I'd still seriously recommend that MTX RTL package. - it's truly not a compromise - it's a very well made amplifier, efficient and well built subs in the right enclosure with the right wiring for under 5 bills delivered to your door.

If you want to double that budget and get significantly louder without compromises, an MTX TH1200.1D is a well-built CEA-rated, no joke amplifier that has no difficulty delivering 1200+ watts at 1 ohm, a pair of the Sundown SA 12's wired to 1 ohm and an Obcon Freak box... if that doesn't rattle your brain into goo, you're not human :)

So if I were to get something like this, is there a recommended way to secure it to the floor of the truck?

Alright. Yeah I can do 250. Was thinking of getting the wiring here:

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL-AK4

And it looks like the D4 version is the same price!

http://amzn.com/B003ZWBG7Q

Do you not have the phone slot in the middle arm rest to stick your phone?

As for the sound system, I added a 12" powered Rockford Fostgate sub and it's night and day. Cost around $200 total and it sounds waaaaay better and has a quick release harness to easily pop the box out if I want the trunk room back.

Thanks to all the people who were helpful, including the ones just trying to be helpful....

I found an old thread on a Volvo forum with someone having similar issues, he replaced it with a Pioneer unit, similar to this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Ts-sw3002s4-1500-watt-Shallow-Subwoofer/dp/B00K9854T0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464740744&sr=8-1&keywords=TS-SW3002S4

Just ordered it.

This one was only $115 and has a built-in amp. Add in some money/labor for a wiring kit and it's pretty cheap for how it sounds.

I'd recommend going for a real sub+amp combo, though.

I won't ever go back to not having an amp and sub. It really adds so much depth that the stock stereo lacked. It really makes everything sound better, podcasts, country, EDM.

This is the sub I bought.

I've never had a sub in my car, but I never knew what I was missing either. If you can afford the trunk space and like your music loud, I recommend it.

I would probably say $200 max for the sub(s), amp, and box.

I listen to mostly EDM, and some rap, so would like a decent bit of bass boost, as its going into an 05 grand am that only has 4x6 and 6x9 speakers stock.

What about these ones, they're on prime sale for $120, which would leave me $80 for an amp.

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

I had this installed yesterday on my r53 Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_JQUNub0HRBAVS and it sounds amazing! I also have an a kenwood stereo($100) and replaced the front speakers with some Polk audio($60) ones and my mini can bump!

I'm in the same position as you, and just posted about this yesterday. The set-up below is likely the best you're going to get on a budget, and it comes out to a few bucks shy of $400 after shipping (only one item isn't eligible for free super-saver shipping). This is what I'm going with, and I think I'll be more than happy with it.

Sub

Box

Amp

Wiring

Control Knob

Grille (not necessary, but smart)

If i were you i would check out Pioneer Champion, Rockford Fosgate, or Dayton RSS.

The sundown is a strong spl sub from what i hear. I just haven't used them yet and cant give you an opinion on em other than people say that they need every bit of power you can give them. In the comments folks are saying there running 1400w rms to one, so think about that. The others i have. I am running two champions and they flex @ ~500rms each. I got them when they were on sale for like 90 a piece. Such a steal.

But to answer you question, imo, that box might not sound the best with the SA-12, or the Dayton Hos.

Thank you, so i used that to find a premade box that i may just buy two of. Would this work? Seems like the size sort of matches up.

Dear OP, I was in your same spot only 4 months ago and bought this powered amp. I am already looking into getting a real amp and sub to replace it. If you are serious about the sound in your car don't get this one, or at least get a better one than this.

I will say that it is way better than having 4 speakers without the sub, but some people will want more.

Hey I just got this in my trunk and after some tuning, I am very happy with it. It gets too loud so I have to turn it down, and they are cheap enough that you could buy one for each car.

These are easy, cheap, and don’t take up a ton of room. My Chevy SS with a Bose system was severely lacking bass. I’m not an audio person by any means but it kicks up the bass nicely.

Rockford Fosgate P300-10 Punch Powered Loaded 10-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W2Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_35.UCbPS8RJPR

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013N0UEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the box I have. I know it's not best to use prefabs but I don't have the means to build a box currently and anything bigger will not work in my situation in my car right now

anything else I could do to improve?

I can't seem to find the 1.5 cubic feet box. Would this one work?

Also, which would be better: Alpine SWS-12D2 or Alpine SWS-12D4

And what size of amp should I get?

with this box and this amp edit: it would actually be about 50-60 bucks cheaper to go this route and you willl have better quality sound

If you plan on installing yourself, Amazon is the place. Just don't skimp on the amp quality (thermal protect and fuses) or wiring, or you could have an electrical issue on your hands and be up shit creek without a warranty. Happened to me when I bought an MTX amp off ebay years ago and it failed and smoked my subs simultaneously.

Do you plan on having a full-range amplified system? If not, you might wish to stay in the same price range but perhaps get a different sub with more modest power handling (600wrms/1200peak) that will give you more musical tightness without a boom that drowns everything else out. I personally like the RF P3D4-12 and would pair it with a P500X1bd . In some cases, if you buy a RF wiring kit, and have it installed by an RF authorized dealer, you'll get a 2 year warranty on everything.

30 x 13.75

Pretty close, cheap, construction looks decent. Close to Soundqubed rec size

[Well what about this box?] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013MYXDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tdchyb1M877BK)

I hadn't realized it was ofc. What are the benefits of that versus non ofc? Less interference?

Well here's the thing. I'm not an audiophile I just want the bass to rattle and be loud.

I found this MTX mentioned around the sub and was curious. I don't care about distinctive bass notes.

Is there any decent amps + wiring for $100?

So I went to a 2 others shop and they recommended


[Rockford Fosgate P1S4-12 Punch P1 SVC 4 Ohm 12-Inch 250 Watts RMS 500 Watts Peak Subwoofer]
(https://www.amazon.ca/Rockford-Fosgate-P1S4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004TATPBW/) x2 -
Their price: $159.95 ea



[JX1000/1D - JL Audio Monoblock 1000W RMS Class D Amplifier]
(https://www.amazon.ca/JX1000-1D-Audio-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004LMCZMY) - Their price: $499.95

Bassworx RP12V - REF Vinyl 2-12" PORTE - Their price: $299.95


And

12W1V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W1v3 Series Subwoofer x2 - Their price $289 ea

JL Audio Class-D Monoblock RD500/1 1000W Peak RD Series 2-Ohm Stable Class-D Monoblock Subwoofer Amplifier - Their price $498

Prefab box, forgot to take note of it.

I’d look into upgrading the front speakers and giving them more power. You could get a four channel amplifier and power a set of component speakers up front and bridge the rear channels of the amplifier to run a 10” subwoofer (rear door speakers would run off of the factory radio). Pioneer makes a 10” pre-loaded down-firing shallow subwoofer enclosure that doesn’t take up a ton of space and you can easily load things on top of it.

Not sure what your budget or car audio installation skills are, but here’s an example of what I’d do with your CX-5 for under $500:

Component Speakers:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_091ISS165/Focal-Integration-ISS-165.html?tp=106

4-Channel Amplifier:
https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_130GMD8604/Pioneer-GM-D8604.html?tp=35782

Subwoofer:
Pioneer TS-SWX2502 10 inch Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JQTU3QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qy-EAb0AA96Y7

This will be much better for your budget you just need a amp kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_0xPAub0K3B7YD

If space is an issue you should look at the 10 inch pioneer shallow mounted sub.
You can get it with a box for a reasonable price and it will take a good amount of power.
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JQTU3QC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485881674&sr=8-1&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=TSSWX2502

It's a prefab. This one. https://www.amazon.com/E12SV-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1486184286&sr=1-1&keywords=Atrend+bbox+12. Would you suggest I find someone local to build me a custom box rather than a new amp? I primarily listen to rap. Thank you.

Looks like this one!


http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-Series-10-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT9O

Ok so 0 guage can be used for any wattage im assuming?

And what is your opinion on the sub i chose and this one?

For the amps I actually found this really cool YouTube channel that tests out budget amps to see if they are "up to Snuff" or trash.
Here is my build:

Door speakers
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059AK2T0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Amp for door speakers
Dual Electronics XPR84D 2/1 High Performance Power MOSFET Class D Car Amplifier with 1,000-Watts of Dynamic Peak Power

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849

Sub
Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V-c4BbJW5C6F2

Amp for Sub
Audiopipe AMPI-1500 1500 Watts 1 Channel Mono Amplifier

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Audiopipe-AMPI-1500-1500-Watts-1-Channel-Mono-Amplifier/48123860

Head unit :some kenwood /pioneer that you like- $200ish

Front : [These ] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_20992_JL-Audio-C2-650.html) - 250

Rears: [These] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com) -100

Sub: [this one] (http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-REV-3-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q)

Amp: [this] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_64240_Kicker-CX600.1-12CX600.1.html)

Sound deadener : Stinger roadkill $100ish on sonic

i have this sub in a 98 extended cab. takes up quite a bit of space. i can post pictures if you would like.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=twister_B00A8F4TAY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.

I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.

Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.

I've heard good things about the Rockford Fosgate P300-10 or P300-12. They aren't a tube per say, but a samll-ish sub box with a 300 watt amp built in. The 12 runs $250. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=p300-12&qid=1563151399&s=gateway&sr=8-1

allow me to make a suggestion
this amp and this box and this sub and this wiring kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bbSADb008NTF3?th=1&psc=1

I saw this sub to put in the back of the passengers seat. For anyone that knows about subs, is there a huge difference between the 10 in and the 8 inch? There’s a difference of 200 peak watt and 50 RMS watt between them, and idk which to choose

Rockville RW10CA 10" 800 Watt Slim Low Profile Active Powered Car Subwoofer Sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Ec6CbA39Q435

That’s what I ended up going with. I might end up going with a nicer setup in the future but I thought I’d see how this worked first.

Oh, and I don't know if it helps, but here's the parts we're working with:

Enclosed Rockford sub: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007AQ2W2Q

Wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CBRWZW

Front door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG76/JBL-GT7-6.html?tp=78072

Rear door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109JBLG76/JBL-GT7-6.html?tp=78072

If space is what you need, I can vouch for this guy... I am 38 and have a baby seat in the car as well, so your mileage may vary.

This box
is what I ended up with so luckily I chose one with closer to 1 cu (.90).
Also, I picked up the same Pioneer you linked to Walmart but picked up on Amazon. Looking forward to this so much.

The second option is closest to recommended specs

Jbl is always one of the top review for underseat subwoofer. What about this one, well its not really an underseat: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-SWX2502-Shallow-Mount-Pre-Loaded-Enclosure/dp/B00JQTU3QC

Ever consider a powered sub? Like the infinity basslink or Rockford Fosgate https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZFBvzbVWXXRFW

They add lows without adding them to the car next to you.

What about this one

even this would work http://www.amazon.com/Atrend-E12S-12-Inch-Hatchback-Enclosures/dp/B0013MWTB2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Bbox E12DSV Pro-Series 12" Dual Vented Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013MYXDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hld4Db1Y1JFS6

This one is decent.

Would this be a good enclosure

• E-12D2 V2
  
• Atrend Ported box
  
• Amp Remember he has $300 budget
  
• Wiring Kit
  
• L.O.C.
  
  Youll have $15 left to hit up a Taco Bell

Great place to start. If you wanna go a little cheaper, this was my first setup

http://m.bestbuy.com/m/e/product/detail.jsp?skuId=7551285&pid=1218851199236 that's the amp

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001JECAM2 those are the subs

First off if youre wanting that kind of bass youre going to have to build a box to spec of whatever sub youre getting. Personally i would suggest 1 or 2 Sundown SA-12's
http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Series-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1377637886&sr=8-2&keywords=sundown+sa+12

and a proper amp http://www.amazon.com/Hifonics-BRX1100-1D-Vehicle-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B00BHSTTLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377637961&sr=8-1&keywords=hifonics

http://www.amazon.com/SA-12-D4-Sundown-Audio-Subwoofer/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1375125535&sr=1-1

Build a box to spec.

Yea this one!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6

I don't think you need to spend $200 on a sub if you're just adding frequency. If everything else is stock and you're not in a large SUV or van I would just go with a single 12". One of these two perhaps http://amzn.com/B0028AYIXK http://amzn.com/B004UFHXNI
But the sound quality and loudness will depend heavily on your amp - what do you have or have in mind to push the sub?

If your looking for a sub I personally have this Rockford Fosgate in my trunk that give my car more than enough bass and uses about a fraction of the space.

Where I found the stereo lacked in my 12 WRX hatch, was the bass.
I put a 12 inch Rockford Fosgate in the trunk, and let the speakers only run mids and highs. It has improved the stereos sound greatly and didn't break the bank too badly.

Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt Powered Loaded 12-Inch Subwoofer Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EubfAbY7QGTG2

If you are considering the OEM Kicker setup, I'd look at the Rockford Fosgate P300-12 Punch 300 Watt instead.

Rockford fosgate 12 in powered sub

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462394225&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+12+in+powered+sub

Also I replaced the front speakers with the same brand. Kept everything else stock

So if I purchased it on Amazon do they normally come with everything needed to install it? Or do they just normally assume that you have all of the wires/adapters already?