Reddit mentions: The best car audio & video accessories

We found 1,719 Reddit comments discussing the best car audio & video accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 396 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

11. Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adaptor Cable - Select 2009-Up Lexus/Toyota

    Features:
  • Lexus Antenna Adapt Cable 2009-Up
  • Wiring Harness
  • Easy installation
Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adaptor Cable - Select 2009-Up Lexus/Toyota
Specs:
Colorcomputer
Height0.38 Inches
Length15 Inches
Weight0.02 Pounds
Width2 Inches
Release dateJanuary 2021
SizeValue not found
Number of items1
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🎓 Reddit experts on car audio & video accessories

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where car audio & video accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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Top Reddit comments about Car Audio & Video Accessories:

u/cthulhubert · 2 pointsr/funny

(Man, this turned out a long longer than I thought it would, for relatively little content. I guess I just have a lot of feelings about audio equipment.)

I'd really recommend reading a bunch of reviews and auditioning what you can (I know that's not always practical, I sure bought mine without listening to many alternatives).

I really like the noaudiophile.com guy's reviews, though I know there are people that disagree with some of his conclusions and methods.

/r/Zeos also has a shortlist and some mini-reviews of both powered monitors and bookshelf speakers + amps, and where our experience overlaps I agree with them, so I imagine my advice in that price range would match theirs. (Though after a quick look, it seems some of them are a little out of date, with links to discontinued equipment.)

If you're willing to spend that much, I can't recommend enough making sure your speakers are properly positioned with stands (you don't have to spend much though: the noaudiophile guy uses soup cans to prop up speakers he reviews at his computer!). You may also consider rubber isolation mats.

I personally use—and very much enjoy—the JBL LSR305s, which I got for 280$ a pair, but they're usually 300$ (typically sold by the each at 150$). When I searched for that price, I found out they've just been replaced with the "305p MkII", but changes are minor and all improvements.

Studio monitors are popular for audiophile grade computer speakers because they're designed for near-field, critical listening, unlike typical bookshelf speakers.

On the other hand, they're designed for a very linear, uncolored sound. Speakers can essentially be thought of as a musical instrument, and while there are plenty of wrong ways to make them, there's no one right way. Precision is just one basis for judgment (though the one I find most soothing to go by, since it's easiest to measure).

The LSR305s specifically have been very popular on /r/audiophile, but there's also a lot of praise for the ~400$/pair Yamaha HS5s and AudioEngine A5s. I personally wouldn't bet a lot of money that I'd be able to tell a big difference between my speakers and those higher priced ones.

**

The rest of this post is just advice for if you do get a Studio Monitor. Many (including the JBLs and the Yamahas I mentioned) aren't terribly user friendly. I ran into some stumbling blocks, so I'll mention them here. They're designed to be stand-alone, giving flexibility to your recording engineer, so to run them in stereo, you'll need a way to control the volume of them together (not to mention some unusual cables/adapters, and space to plug in two things on your power strip).

Zeos recommends this line level control, which is only 10$. There's also a "passive preamp" by Nobsound on Amazon for 40$. I don't think you can do too much to mess up a stereo potentiometer with modern manufacturing, so the extra money for the nobsound one is probably just for the nice box and connectors (admittedly, I built my own passive pre-amp and spent probably too much on a stepped attenuator for it).

Obviously, you could instead control volume directly from your computer's volume control, but there's a hidden hazard there, so this is secretly the more expensive option. On nearly every computer, the built in digital-to-analog-converter (DAC) is 16-bits; turning down the volume digitally fundamentally means cutting the audio resolution your computer outputs. The way around this is a 24-bit DAC: almost all audio is recorded/produced at 16-bit resolution (it's the CD standard; but also, about the limit of detail a human can hear), so you can go to .25% volume on the computer before you touch the real data. My recommendation is the Objective Labs DAC (99$).

Some people recommend a dedicated, high quality DAC anyways for a sound system around a price point like 500$. I do own the ODAC (predecessor to the OL DAC), but for me it's almost just for peace of mind.

As a cable example: if you get JBLs and a volume control, you'll need this for computer to volume control and a pair of these for control to speakers. (Not recommendations, just top results on amazon for those types.)

PS: One thing you
don't* have to worry about at all is "balanced". Most studio monitors can be run balanced, but they'll also run unbalanced just fine. You'd need a very expensive balanced DAC to make use of it, and assuming your home is not the maelstrom of EM interference a recording studio is, it just isn't necessary (it's not even "overkill", if you don't need it, balanced equipment just adds more components that could produce interference).

^(edited to correct first cable link)

u/dicarlobrotha2 · 3 pointsr/COROLLA

(Reposting from a different thread I replied to previously, plus some modifications with better details)



I have done this on a 2017, which should use a similar system and can be swapped out in the same fashion. There are a few caveats that may sway your decision however.



The radio I bought for my Corolla is the Kenwood DMX-905S, but you can get any radio that has the iDatalink Serial port on the back (should be mentioned specifically in the description on whatever site you buy it from) which brings me to the next point...



I used the iDatalink Maestro RR with the TO2 harness that allowed a very straight-forward installation with no modification to the factory wiring. This module allows your radio to interface with all the OEM functionality that is normally configured with the radio and prevents having to deal with a metric ton of ridiculous wiring. This is not where this story ends, however.



The Maestro and harness kits do not come with the adapters required for factory USB, Aux (sort of), AM/FM radio, GPS, Satellite Radio, or any integration for the factory microphone. This last part is what has pained me the most in this whole thing, as I've yet to install the aftermarket microphone or make the attempts necessary to try to get the factory one working. I've got lots of wiring diagrams, but no free time. There have supposedly been some successful attempts online, but naturally only by someone who was planning to sell adapters for it and essentially abandoned the forum and project entirely without ever releasing ANY details.



I used this Axxess adapter for the factory USB. Fits perfectly, just plug into the radio and the factory connector. Wrap the radio USB end with TESA tape so it doesn't disconnect.



The antenna adapters for GPS and Satellite Radio are available from iDatalink as the ACC-SAT-TO2 kit. They should connect directly to the factory harnesses and then to the new radio, but if they don't work for you this is not required to be a specific iDatalink replacement so you may be able to find another brand that works. I own this kit, but have yet to install it in my Corolla so I can't officially vouch for it.



I ordered the Metra 40-LX11 for the AM/FM radio antenna (I have yet to actually install it so I can't vouch for it 100% but it should be fine). I did do some research after someone else mentioned this in the previous thread and despite the strange image on the Amazon page it does indeed have the radio connector and the blue power wire which is required for it to function.



For auxiliary input, you do get the aux connection as RCAs, but you may need to invest in a female RCA to male 3.5mm adapter depending on what your radio expects for the aux connection. Most likely, you will need the adapter. Don't bother with the one that has red white AND yellow because it's only wired for red and white (audio). Something like this should work fine.



Last but not least, you'll need a dash kit. I'm not certain which one you'll need on the 2015, but don't buy the Metra ones. Hot. Garbage. Just go to https://www.crutchfield.com/ and put in your model/year/etc.



As some general advice, I recommend getting some TESA tape and wrapping all your connections. Please for the love of Cthulhu do not wrap your wires in electrical tape if you value your sanity. TESA tape is fabric tape and is absolutely delightful to use, plus it looks good. Also, invest in plastic panel pry tools so you don't ruin your dash trying to get the radio out. You will likely need a 10mm socket to remove the factory radio.



I hope this is probably more than enough information to get you on the right track. Feel free to PM me if you have questions!



(edited because mobile formatting)

u/noahsmybro · 1 pointr/mazda6

I've got a 2004 Mazda 6 Sport Wagon also.

Last January (Jan 2017 I think, but might have been 2016) I installed a Grom Audio "Mazda 02-08 USB Android iPod iPhone Bluetooth AUX car kit" - Model# MAZU3 device.

I also purchased and installed the Bluetooth dongle & Aux-In/USB Charging adapter cable.

Installation required me to remove the OEM stereo and make a minor modification to it (hardest part of that was actually opening the cage of the stereo itself, in order to get to the circuit board).

Then the Grom device plugs in to the socket on the back of the OEM stereo that would be used by the optional factory CD changer.

The Grom 'impersonates' the CD changer, so the stereo thinks it is playing a CD from the CD changer when you are listening to the Grom

PROS:

  • Finally I have satisfactory Bluetooth hands-free phone capability in the car.

  • I can wirelessly stream music (from any source) from my phone to the car stereo. I primarily use this for SiriusXM, but can also listen to music stored on the phone, or Spotify/Pandora/iHeartRadio, whatever.

  • I've paired Windows Phones and an iPhone 7+ to the car, with no problems. I assume an Android phone would work equally well but haven't tried one myself.

  • When I originally installed the Grom unit I loaded up a pretty large USB stick with music. LOTS of albums, lots of songs. I believe I stuck to Grom's documented requirements regarding directory structures and filenames. I can listen to the music from the USB.

  • I've never actually used the Aux-In, but it exists and I assume it will work just fine.

    CONS:
  • Due to the design of the system and how it interfaces to the car stereo there is no audible indication you are receiving a phone call if you aren't already listening to the Grom. I.e., if you're listening to a CD or the radio then you will only know you're receiving a phone call if you see the phone display that there is an incoming call. On my phone, at least, if the phone is in the car and paired to the Grom than the phone won't ring audibly (because it is ringing via the Grom), and so if you aren't listening to the Grom you don't know a call is coming in.

  • No display other than the car's factory LED strip above the HVAC vents. So you can't see who is calling you other than by looking at your phone screen. You can't see any text description of whatever music is being played.

  • Navigating the file structure of the USB stick is inconsistent & unpredictable. I've given up trying to figure it out, and just concluded that since I like all of the music I loaded on the stick (after all, if I didn't like it I wouldn't own it or have put it on the stick) I just listen to the music as it plays and don't worry about it too much. It makes it impossible to go find a particular song though.

  • Occasionally the full system (phone - car stereo - Grom, don't know or care where to assign the blame) will effectively get confused and either I'll hear music coming from the USB stick and my phone, or the system won't be able to play a physical CD, or the system won't switch from the USB to the phone. When this happens the only solution is to force a reset by turning the car off and then restarting the car. This only happens rarely, but it does happen.

    **
    **
    I think Grom should:

  • not charge extra for the additional cables/dongles I used. They add up, and feel like a lot of nickel-and-diming to get the full capabilities of the system.

  • provide (and for this I'd accept it being an optional, extra cost upgrade) a small display that could be plugged in to the Grom unit, with a pass-through for the currently existing wires, that would be used to display song or incoming call information. I'd think this is something that could be done easily using something like a Raspberry Pi, but I'm not a software dev, don't know anything about writing device drivers, and wouldn't know how to fabricate the hardware necessary to plug in to the existing hardware plugs. But conceptually it seems reasonable, and it seems to me that Grom already has the engineers that would know how to do this. I wish it existed.

    ==============
    ==============


    Within the last week I learned of two competing products that I am seriously considering for another car I own.

  1. the iSimple BluHF.
    https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-Hands-Free-Calling-Streaming-Smartphones/dp/B00FRU5UNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521602988&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+bluetooth&dpID=41nW9mERuUL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

    This is a similar product to the Grom, but instead of plugging in to the CD port of the stereo and impersonating the CD changer it uses the FM antenna port and sends its output through the stereo's FM receiver. To use it you switch your radio to a predetermined FM frequency.

    I suspect this would be more reliable than Grom's method, at least with the 2004 Mazda stereo.


  2. The Parrot MKI 9200.
    https://www.amazon.com/Parrot-MKi9200-Advanced-Bluetooth-Hands-Free/dp/B001IA3SZ0/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=Miata%7C1110&Year=1996%7C1996&ie=UTF8&n=1077068&s=car&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive

    I like the Parrot unit a lot. It looks like it would be great, and I'm willing to shell out the $$$ for it. It actually inserts itself between the stereo and the speaker wires themselves, so it will work regardless of what source you're listening to - doesn't matter if you're listening to the radio, a CD, etc...

    My concern with the Parrot though is that I see many reviews that state it worked great for 6 months - 2 years, and then crapped out, and the company provided horrible service when that occurred. So I'm reluctant to get one of these.

    Hope the above helps you decide what you do going forward.

u/andyooo · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

There are many, look on Amazon. Personally I liked the Sony RM-X7BT, but they have discontinued it in the US and probably other markets. Look for something like this https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-Free-Isolator/dp/B0739RGDFJ. These type of adapters don't have a battery, they're designed for cars, so they can turn on and off with the ignition (if your car turns on/off the 12V sockets; mine doesn't). This particular set comes with a ground loop isolator, which you may not need, you'll only need it if you hear static or whirring (from the engine).

Bear in mind that these cheap ones will likely sound like butt with calls due to not prioritizing mic quality, and using the old BT narrowband standard. Since the BT Hands-free Profile 1.6 (circa 2011), BT has been able to do wideband or "HD Voice" quality, but not all manufacturers use it, and good luck finding one that advertises it.

I liked the Sony one because the BT receiver/mic was separate from the controls so you could position it better. The control unit is completely wireless and battery powered, and IR so it needs line of sight, but on the upside the battery lasts very long, and unlike BT remotes, it doesn't need to go to sleep, it just always instantly works, like a regular TV remote. The mic quality was also excellent and noise reduction top notch, I tested it by recording directly on my computer connected to Hangouts and going for a drive. I went that far. It also has HFP 1.6 with wideband, as all modern Sony BT devices, and even has an external mic input. If you can find it and the price is not too expensive for you, I recommend it.

u/D_Bat · 2 pointsr/Audi

You can do what I'm doing. I bought a cheap bluetooth adapter linked below. It plugs into an AUX port and is powered be 12v/cigarette lighter. What I'll be doing is cutting off those plugs and wiring it behind the dash directly into the AUX input wires behind the plug. This way I can still plug things into the AUX for anything but still do the bluetooth device into it. This device auto connects and is for both iPhones and Androids. Music quality is great. I'm no audiophile though and my 2008 Tundra speakers aren't super duper or anything.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NLTW60/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1

If you want to go 100% wireless which is great then get the link below too if your phone supports wireless charging. I love car docks because they are a million times safer than putting your phone down in your center console. They keep your eyes on the road while still being able to see the phone. Also it's super useful with the WAZE app and GPS.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KHEUEJ6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To power that device I bought the product below. It's a 12v to 5v convertor to power a USB port with 3amps of power. This will be behind the dash and I'll be wiring it to the other product below to add a USB port to my A-pillar. This way I'll have a very short wire going from my A-Pillar to my car-dock so that there are no wires really visible in the vehicle interior. :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A71CMDU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-extension-Flush-Motercycle-Xtenzi/dp/B00CNUFGN6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407177113&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+aux+port&dpPl=1

u/tekdemon · 1 pointr/cars

Honestly if all you want is an aux or bluetooth input you can get a box that connects to the back of your current head unit and adds an Aux input. You then select this input using the CD button because the Camry's headunit supports a CD changer that's accessed by hitting the cd button twice (first to select CD then the second press selects the CD changer). The box basically mimics a CD changer but sends whatever you put in through the Aux.
You can then very cheaply buy a bluetooth adapter online for bluetooth-aux and many of them come with good microphones.

That's what I did myself because I like that it's much more stealth than a new headunit so you're not worrying about people trying to steal your headunit or having to deal with removable faceplates or whatever.

You just need a plastic panel prying kit that you can buy online to help take your dash apart, but it's pretty easy and can be done in maybe 20 minutes. I did end up needing to get a ground loop isolator to cut out engine noise since the Camry was never really designed to have an aux input.

I would take a look at the back of the head unit first actually, because I'm almost sure the 2002 Camry head unit actually uses the same connector as the later models like this and apparently they have very cheap connector units now like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Moonet-Auxillary-Integration-Highlander-Landcruiser/dp/B00ITHJ5BQ They have ones listed for the 2002 but I'm almost sure that's for the older headunit model but you should look at the back of the headunit to make sure this will fit. I bought a pricier one but this was years ago, they still have more expensive kits out there too.

Then you just need a female to female 3.5mm adapter and one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ (I own this one and it's great, but I got it on sale for cheaper than the current price)
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004EHZUYG (this one also has a good mic as well but don't bend the wires too much, I had the wired version and my wiring went bad.

u/devont · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

FM transmitters will reduce sound quality. Bluetooth will reduce sound quality. You have both, so they're both reducing the quality of the sound.

Radio stations have huge towers to produce a strong signal, which you're picking up with the antenna of your car. The transmitter you're using produces a very weak signal, which is fine to produce a small "station" for your car, but isn't strong enough to transmit the bass and treble of audio.

So, there isn't any way to increase the quality of an FM transmitter (that I know of). Which leaves you two options.

  1. Buy an aftermarket head unit for your car that has bluetooth or an auxiliary input.

  2. Get an FM modulator. This is what I use in my car. It's sort of like your FM transmitter, but instead of producing a little bubble station to play audio over it you plug it in behind the radio and it takes over the stations. Instead of broadcasting a station, it's hardwired to play louder than other stations. It's CD quality audio. I'm not an audiophile, but I really like good quality sound and it sounds amazing.

    This is what I purchased. I've had it in my car for about 3 years and it's worked flawlessly the entire time.

    This one has bluetooth, but is a lot more expensive.

    Good luck!
u/Tec_ · 1 pointr/CarAV

A cassette aux adapter is probably the simplest.

Next would be a battery or cigarette outlet powered FM transmitter.

Next would be a hard wired FM transmitter. They also exist in Bluetooth flavors. The quality is absolutely better than the previous FM transmitter but they still aren’t the best and require you to be on a FM station to use.

Next would be vehicle specific interface like this or one from USAspec or gromaudio. They work by tricking the factory radio into thinking a factory CD changer or SAT radio is connected. They can be as basic as a AUX input but also come in limited USB flavors as well as Bluetooth streaming and / or hands free flavors. They don’t always work the way you’d expect and can be clunky to use.

And finally would be an aftermarket replacement radio. Arguably the most expensive solution depending on the radio choice but has the potential to be the best solution with seamless functionality as well as increased functionally.

u/PrinceXizor · 2 pointsr/Volvo

That's awesome. The guy I'm buying it from said many of the same things. I also didn't realize until your comment that the bluetooth didn't work with music. I bought this for my current car and it's been great, especially since it has an aux input and cigarette lighter hidden in the console. Hopefully it will continue to work.

I'm coming from an impreza so it'll be some nice power and torque. Also lucked out and this one that came up is the 6 speed. Could you tell when the AWD kicks in in the snow? I'm pretty sure it's FWD until it detects traction loss and it'll send power to the rear. The impreza has always been great in the snow so I hope I don't lose much there.

Does yours have the black and white leather interior?

[Swedespeed has some good guides to exhaust systems if you haven't seen them.] (http://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?210962) Long term I'd love to do full exhaust, lowering springs, maybe FMIC and a bigger turbo, and a tune. Make a really great sleeper wagon.

u/L10ydchristmas1 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Thank you for the comments. The second one shows the installation of a potentiometer using one of the speaker leads, which seems to be a good way to externally mount the Pandora Box 6 volume control (instead of having to open the cabinet to adjust the wheel on the actual device). However, I think the leads to the potentiometer would need to be extended to allow it to cleanly mount to the outside of the cabinet.

The first video shows a solution designed to work with something more customizable, like a Raspberry Pi. I just like how professional it looks. The downside is that you have to drill the holes perfectly since at least two of the holes won't be covered by any trim (the amp controls go right through the holes).

The fact that the speaker and power switch can connect directly to the Pandora's Box were big pluses for me. However, from what I read, it seems like different games have different volume levels so I do think having an external volume control is a good idea. The more I read, the more I think I may go with a Raspberry Pi according to ETA Prime's tutorial, deal with the script edits necessary to get the power button to work semi-correctly (seems to just allow the RP to shut down but the amp stays on) and use some of the ideas from the first video I posted. It just seems to allow for the cleanest design with most flexibility going forward.

I guess the ideal solution would be Raspberry Pi + a cheap amp that has a clean externally mounted volume control. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/d/Car-Audio-Video-Remote-Controls/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550113401&sr=8-3&keywords=amp+volume+control ?

u/GothamCountySheriff · 1 pointr/vinyl

Correct, standard RCA cable to connect everything. From what I'm reading on the Tapco's, they have a stereo RCA input. Turntable > ART DJ Pre II > monitors.

As LionsMouth pointed out below (and I stupidly missed) the Tannoys are active monitors as well. You could test out which pair you like best and go with those. I didn't find a manual in my quick google search, but from what I can see, the Tannoy's use a combo 1/4"-phone/XLR cable connection. If it is a 1/4" cable, you will need to find a pair of mono-RCA-to-mono-1/4" cable to connect from the DJ Pre II to the back of the Tannoys.

The other thing you will really, really want is some sort of line attenuator to control the volume. It looks like neither the Tannoy or Tapco have a volume control built into them. You could use the gain trim on the DJ Pre II, but that would be far less than ideal.

One other thing that would be very handy would be a simple AV switch box. This would allow you to connect a MP3 player or other audio source along with your turntable.

Outside of the turntable (not knocking you or it -- we all got to start somewhere) the other gear you have is really good quality stuff. Like I said the MX-2 is worth holding onto for the future if you get into this hobby. Otherwise, you could sell it for a decent penny.

Links for reference:

RCA to 1/4" adapter cable

RCA to 1/4" adapter

Line Level Attenuator

AV Switchbox

The RCA-to-1/4" cable or adapters can probably be found at any store that sells music equipment. Line level attenuator might need to be ordered. AV switchboxes are generally everywhere and should be at any big box or online retailer.


u/blkandblu · 1 pointr/Volkswagen

Might be a silly suggestion, but have you tried a different dealer yet? I have found the the quality of customer service is only as good as the quality of the people that work there, and some dealerships tend to attract certain types of people (some cocky/arrogant, while others are friendly/helpful). It might be worth calling ahead to discuss the issue and then making a trip to the next closest, as they may actually care to help you out.

As an even sillier suggestion, you could just get one of these external Bluetooth adapters and forget about the issue completely (they are easy to jnstall and work wonderfully, but I know that I personally I would not be happy with non-OEM Bluetooth in my MK6)... http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60.

u/Pyrofallout · 1 pointr/Nexus5

Nice! I too hate the mounts for the air dock. I bought all three and they all suck equally bad in my car. The CD mount came close but my CD slot is rounded and the mount is flat so can't get it fully in and supported. My plan is to do exactly this but just FYI you can get a plate for that proclip that will give you the 17mm (I believe) mounting ball that fits the dock. It's a pretty common size apparently as several GPS units use it.

Also for Bluetooth I've tried a some that just never work all that great. My Tunelink had to be re-paired to my phone constantly, like daily or more. My cars Bluetooth for calling is absolutely terrible as well. I recently got this thing on Amazon last week and it works like a charm. Even has a wired remote you mount with a mic on it, a multifunction button and also previous and next track buttons.

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX
http://amzn.com/B009NLTW60

u/GuinnessDraught · 5 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I don't know about the Avalon specifically, but its possible in many cars. You'll have to exercise some Google-fu.

A whole bunch of factory head units, especially on nicer cars starting in the early 2000s, have aux inputs on the back of the unit. Before an aux input became a standard equipment expectation, it was often a dealer-installed option (i.e. plugging in and running an aux cable) or used to wire up a CD changer (which you can often unwire and replace with an aux in).

For instance, here's what I installed in my car: http://www.amazon.com/BMW-82-11-149-389/dp/B000PA00XM#productDetails. $36 on Amazon for OEM, or you can hunt around on eBay or other smaller sites and probably find an OEM one for $25 or a knock off for $15. Literally just plugs into the back of the unit, then you run it to wherever you want, but typically the glovebox is easiest.

Optionally, I also discretely mounted a small ~$40 bluetooth/A2DP receiver (this guy, much nicer than OP, gets power from the car and also doubles as a USB power plug) on the dash next to the stereo and ran its wire under the trim into the glovebox to connect to the 3.5mm aux. It works/sounds great and I mostly use the bluetooth since its nice to not have to fiddle with wires every time I get in/out of the car, but I can also unplug the bluetooth and plug straight in to the 3.5mm plug in the glovebox.

u/JohnBooty · 4 pointsr/diysound

If you have the space for it a 5.1/7.1 home theater receiver will actually provided the easiest, cheapest, and best subwoofer integration since it's guaranteed to implement a proper crossover that high-passes the C-Notes (improving their power handling and clarity about the xover point) and low-passes the subwoofer. Accessories4Less is reliable and has great refurb deals. They'll also put out more clean power than your typical compact Class D amp.

Of course, there's not always space for something like that.

Compact amps with subwoofer out are annoyingly hard to find. The SMSL AD18 and Q5Pro have subwoofer output, but are a bit pricy. They don't get super super loud, but should be plenty loud enough for practice or as monitors I guess! Keep in mind that their sub outs aren't high-passed so the C-Notes will still play full-range.

Alternately you could choose any old amp, and simply control the volume upstream from the amp. Then you won't need a subwoofer out on the amp.

(RCA splitter) --> (inline volume control) --> (piano)

The amp would go into one set of RCA outputs and the sub into another.

You could of course skip the inline volume control if you can simply do it on the piano!

> Main goal is to get distortion free power that won't starve the speakers, so I'm thinking it should probably put out 40 watts per channel at a minimum? I could be wrong there, parts express has the cnotes rated at 60 watts RMS.

If you're going with a class D amps in the $100 range, look for amps rated at around 100W per channel -- typically based on the TDA7498E like the SMSL SA98 and Topping PA3. That "100W" rating is at 10% distortion. However, they'll do 50W at nice low distortion levels, giving the C-Notes about as much clean power as they can take.

However, if you're just using these for practice from a distance of several feet you don't need to go that big. A "50W" class D amp will give you around 25W of actual clean power, which is pretty damn loud at close range and is only ~3dB less than a 50W amp and 6dB less than a 100W monster.

u/EmLeingod · 3 pointsr/howto

This is what you want to get audio to your speakers, it's called a DAC, (better, more expensive options are available, but that's the best you're gonna do for under $100 lol) and this is the cable to connect the two devices (you'll also need RCA cables)

This will get you video to your projector.

Unfortunately since it looks like you're using powered monitors, you'll need a pre-amp to control the volume.

You may be thinking wow that's a lot of stuff, and it doesn't even come with a remote! And you're absolutely right. Unfortunately, the only thing that does all that is a full blow receiver, which get quite expensive and are usually aimed at surround sound systems. Most receivers don't like powered monitors though, so you'd have to get a very special one.

This is where you realize that passive speakers are what you really want, and you blow hundreds of dollars on speakers and equipment and you become an audiophile. Luckily there's a bunch of guides to get you started over on /r/zeos. But the stuff I listed earlier should let you jerry-rig a working set up while you save up :P

u/xXPanduhzXx · 11 pointsr/GooglePixel

Not op, but I had the BTC450. Really great quality, and adds huge convenience of Bluetooth: it has a microphone built in for phone calls; one touch support for changing songs, answering/hanging up phone calls, etc; it looks nice and has a matte black finish to it; it is super small, doesn't take up any space either.

Here's the Amazon link

u/iPhantasy · 2 pointsr/ft86

There are 3 different connectors that you'll have to hook up to the connector that comes with the head unit that plugs into the head unit itself. The other 3 connectors are VERY easy to install. 0 electrical engineering education, but common sense and the color coded instructions on the back of the packaging explains all you need to know.

Radio Antenna harness

Main connection (two main connectors that came out of the factory head unit)

USB Connector (if your car came with usb at the bottom right of the center console)

Should mention that the stock AUX connection won't function. You will have to run an extension from the back of the head unit to somewhere in your car. I routed mine to the left side of the passenger seat held up by this thing.


I don't use the microphone for bluetooth so that's not connected. I don't plan on using my head unit for displaying for any video sources so I didn't bother hooking up the hand brake bypass. The GPS antenna I just stuck to some metal plate that was inside the head unit cavity (pretty strong magnet and pretty accurate).

You may want to pick up a bracket like this. to fill in the rest of the head unit cavity along the sides. I'm not too sure if this is the exact one for the head unit. Crutchfield automatically told me what parts I would need to completely setup the head unit including the bracket and connectors. I couldn't find yours on the site so I can't tell you exactly which bracket to get. They're both Pioneer head units so it's worth a try. The bracket is a generic bracket made for most Toyota cavities to support double DIN sized head units. I had to do some slight Dremel work to get everything to line up with the stock mounting bracket. A solid afternoon with everything and I was set by the end of the day.

I had to contact OEM Audio Plus about how to get power to their amplifier because they have a replacement harness for the stock harness. But that's information that doesn't pertain to you unless you own their system with a subwoofer.

Tl;dr: Links 1-3 are what you need to connect everything. Link 4 is some random accessory I bought that happened to work things out. Link 5 is a bracket adapter to the stock bracket. Last link is the site that showed me all the stuff I needed and I just looked them all up on Amazon.

u/HitlersLeftTesticle · 3 pointsr/Dashcam

I have a Rexing V1 and I am happy with it. I think I’ve had it for a year and a half now and it’s been working fine. Video quality is in line for its price range. I live in a hot part of the country and it’s held up. I imagine the rear camera version is just as good.

If you aren’t happy with it, you can always return it. But IMO it’s a good bang for the buck camera.


Also, I would recommend to get the Rexing hardwire kit with it. Super easy to instal and hides your wires. Let me know if you have any question on wiring it into your fuse box.

u/reverendnathan · 9 pointsr/MotoX

I'd only recommend the Hint if you've come to rely on BT ear buds. The X is very functional with "whip-right-out-of-your-pocket" functionality thanks to active display turning on and deep listening ready to go.

The car dock I bought is a U-grip for ten bucks. It's not perfect, but it certainly holds my device in place with absolutely no slippage, and the rotation ball on the dock is adjustable which is nice. Easy to remove.

If I can upsell you on car crap, the Kinivo bluetooth car unit in particular supports AptX as do Moto products! No quality compromise versus AUX IN... ditch the wires in your car! I mounted the controller low and can pause and skip in a very comfortable position where the unit is hidden-- honestly, don't know how I went so long with something so dang convenient.

If you are splurging, the turbo charger is cool. For when you've got no plugs, a powerbank is nice. Other than power and cord management, this phone takes away a lot of necessity for accessories.

u/ctjameson · 1 pointr/Lexus

Oh I know. I own one of them. I just don't like how it disconnects frequently and takes forever to regain sync to my device. The AUKEY I'm talking about would allow you to have your cake and eat it to.

Device I'm talking about.

Basically you would leave everything in the center console, it would give you the exact same controls as the one you have now, make it to where it's only one bluetooth device connected at once, AND you'd be able to use your hands free phone from it as it has a mic on the control puck. Yeah, it's got one wire going to the puck, but trust me. It's one of the best solutions out there. I've been through a bunch and this one has worked and looked fantastic for over 6 months now.

u/bittabet · 1 pointr/oneplus

You can still use those headphones and even your car audio just with the adapter it'll come with, I've owned a few phones without headphone jacks and the only really annoying part is if you're trying to charge and listen to music with headphones. They are Bluetooth adapters for the car that will also give you a better microphone for car use. It only costs like $20 when they go on sale and gives you hardware controls for music. I bought this one for my old car that didn't have Bluetooth. It's not on sale now but you can buy another one, just make sure it has AptX so the streaming is good quality. There are even newer ones that support AptX HD.

Having the Bluetooth in the car is way convenient anyways, you can have the phone automatically trigger Android Auto when you get in the car since the Bluetooth will automatically connect which triggers Android auto to start. It's one of the options in the Android auto settings. Amazon is actually releasing an Alexa for the car that'll work as a Bluetooth adapter and add Alexa to the car and I think the introductory price is $25. You just have to request an invite to order since it's not out yet.

There's so much road noise in a car anyways that it's very unlikely that the slightly worse quality of AptX over Bluetooth is noticeable. And the car microphones do a MUCH better job for in car phone calls and you can also keep your phone your pocket and play the last playlist. I really recommend getting a Bluetooth adaptor for your car whether or not your phone has a headphone jack.

u/Quaternions_FTW · 2 pointsr/tasker

Well, I'm not sure if this will help you, but I'll share my setup. I use the SoundBot SB360 which is like $16.00.

It plugs into auxiliary jack, so you could definitely use the tape deck with a female-female 3.5mm collar.

I only have a cd player (no cassette/auxiliary/rca) so I found a guide where I soldered the wires into the cd audio out and play a "silent cd".

My 12v power (cigarette lighter) is always powered on, so for a while, I would just hit the button on the SB360 (turn it on) and it would connect to my phone and launch my tasks.

I recently looked up the specs on my car and found there was a power wire that only comes on when you start the car, so I wired into that.

When my phone connects to the Bluetooth it launches "car mode".

"Car mode" changes "car_mode" variable to "1", stores current volume in a variable, stores current screen brightness in a variable, turns wifi off, turns volume to max, dismisses dangerous audio levels warning, turns screen brightness to max, launches linkme: Torque, Car DashDroid, CaroO Pro (Dashcam & OBD), Waze, Podcast & Radio Addict. Then it plays the podcast.

Not sure if any of this is relevant, I just wanted to share :)

u/Pingom · 1 pointr/E90

kia ora mate. That car is gonna bring a smile to your face. Take for it spin on someplace like the Tahuna-Ohinewai Rd or even SH30. FYI - BMWorkshop in Auckland are my recommendation. This is what you want to get for bluetooth audio/calling - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NLTW60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That is an amazing car for the money - https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/2006-bmw-330i-long-term-road-test

You are enjoying one of the better dailydriver BMWs. The steering is hydraulic so you can place the car with confidence and that non-turbo 6 cylinder is creamly responsive.

Cheers.

u/mandudebreh · 2 pointsr/Dashcam

The camera is an alright camera, but the price is way too high for what you seem like you need.

Will you set up the speed camera alerts through your wifes phone? Does she speed?

If you're only looking for video as the main feature, save yourself the $$ and get one of these Rexings. You can go even cheaper with this Aukey, which has good quality video and it is discrete.

Also, you can easily hardwire it into your wife's car using a kit like this,

u/reyztec · 1 pointr/Honda

The dashboard cracking can be prevented by either covering it, or not exposing the car to rapid changes in temperatures constantly. Mine is not cracked, and I don't have it covered either but I may cover it in black alcantera if I swap out my seats for the beige alcantera recaro seats that I have been lusting after for about a year.

The homelink does also cause battery drainage when it malfunctions, thought yes it is easily replaceable, even removable. It's not necessary, and the Bluetooth capabilities are just for calling, no media. I installed this in the car for calling and music playback, it works great. My homelink works fine but I find it useless so I unplugged it.

I find the TL Type S to be one of the most elegant sedans ever made. If this car was made RWD, it would still be giving the E46 M3 a run for its money in all aspects. I feel as if Honda one-upped BMW in that time period with a FWD sedan like they did to Ferrari with the NSX back in the 90's.

u/ziggo0 · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

I've got an old headunit that I can't let go of. It does have an AUX but it gets annoying dealing with unplugging/replugging in. I use these at work and finally bought one for my car - simple and amazing device. Hands free even works great for phone calls. Just take care on it's mounting location and you cannot go wrong. https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO

u/deWaardt · 1 pointr/MechanicAdvice

What you could do, it's not the most recommended solution, but you could buy one of these Bluetooth to FM transmitter. One like this.

Basically, you connect your phone to it using bluetooth, and the device then creates an FM signal you can tune in to with your radio. They're not the best probably, but they're cheap and will work in every car that has a cigarette lighter and an FM radio.

=

I bought one for my Mazda 6 since the radio I have is not compatible with the AUX mod and it works great.

The only real problem is that it's pretty prone to interference. If you're playing on frequency 99.90, but there's another channel on or near that frequency as well you're gonna have interference.

I just put mine to the lowest frequency it would go, noone broadcasts there over there so sound quality is great.

u/Chaosphere_ · 2 pointsr/windowsphone

It works great. When I get a text my music pauses and it asks me if I want the text read or ignore. I don't have to press the Bluetooth button or the phone. It's completely hands free. After it reads it to me it asks if I want to respond. If I say yes then it waits for my message then it shows me the message and asks if I want to retry or send. AFAIK WP is the only one that is completely hands free for this. iOS and Android require you to press the button. You never have to touch the phone or the Bluetooth button when someone texts you. If you want to send a text you just press and hold the button for a few seconds then voice control kicks in. You can say who to send it to and what the message is by voice alone. I love it.

Edit: This is what I have.

u/untitled-1 · 2 pointsr/Audi

If your car has aux in you can use something like this. It has a mic built in and can play music and call through your speakers. I have an older junker version of this from Belkin, it's great nonetheless. Surprisingly great sound quality.

Edit: it needs a cigarette lighter jack so be ready for that. My A4 has the aux in and power port in the arm rest compartment so it was perfect.

u/Teknik987 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

I recommend the Kinivo BTC450. Ive had mine for over a year now its works great. Handsfree calling, auto-connect (big plus for me), music controls and siri activation. Also with this one you won't have to charge every day. Its pretty much plug and play.

But if you like that one more which has good reviews and that works for you i would get it.

u/Skitch_n_Sketch · 2 pointsr/audiophile

If you just need something cheap, something like this would work. It'll just go in between the PC / Sub.

On a budget your best bet is almost always to spend more on the Left / Right speakers and add in the subwoofer as an afterthought. The Micca's are capable speakers but are easily outclassed by the LSR305's. The PSW10 also has (contrary to the amazon reviews) a pretty bad reputation here for chuffing.

My gripe with going for the PSW10 + Micca's is you're skimping on everything. It's a bad sub paired with "OK" speakers. You'll get more bass over the LSR305's, but that's at the sacrifice of overall audio quality.

Honestly my best advice at the moment is this. Start off with a set of speakers (My recommendation being the LSR305's), and see if they can meet your needs / expectations. If you happen to have a guitar center (or any similar store) near you then consider going in to listen in store or buy and return. Amazon likely offers a similar service but I've never returned anything that wasn't broken so YMMV.

u/triscious · 4 pointsr/Cadillac

I've got a 2009 AWD. I don't think there's a way of adding an in dash backup camera shy of adding an aftermarket unit, but the parking sensors have always worked great for me.

Bluetooth is for hands free calling only and not music. I've used this for over a year now and it's been great. It's all stored in my center console.

Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739RGDFJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n9poDbT0NKNK1

u/Brandicus · 2 pointsr/CarAV

got this for my wife for xmas and she loves it, cheap elegant solution that adds no wires anywhere:

http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1451771122&sr=1-1&keywords=bluetooth+cassette+adapter

do recommend you get two after awhile so you can have one ready and charged with less hassle. Remember to remove the film from the roller/reader thing before using for improved sound quality. Cheers!

u/WuddaWaste · 2 pointsr/Android

I had an external Bluetooth adapter that I REALLY liked. It worked better than either of the BT car stereos I have (Pioneer and Clarion) and cost a fraction of what they did. It plugs into the aux port and to USB for power. I had it two years ago and really loved it. It has buttons just like the cord you showed. There might be something better on the market these days, but I can certainly vouch for the clarity and ease of use of this little bugger. In fact, writing this makes me miss it right now.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1466458793&sr=8-14&keywords=bluetooth+adapter+aux+car

u/cdegallo · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I really like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ZA9YAb47229A6

Aptx audio, so quality is great. I've gone through more car Bluetooth adapters than I wish to admit, and I'm finally happy with this one.

But I recommend picking up a ground loop noise isolator regardless of what adapter you go with.

u/Matthew2470 · 2 pointsr/reactiongifs

I felt the same way but I ended up buying this and it's actually pretty great:
FM Transmitter, Otium Bluetooth Wireless Radio Adapter Audio Receiver Stereo Music Tuner Modulator Car Kit with USB Charger, Hands Free Calling https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DZKERVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_h1CJJygHqKNks

u/kestrel808 · 17 pointsr/nottheonion

I drive a early 90's toyota and picked up this bluetooth receiver for my car. Your stereo has to have 1/8in audio input(or an adapter), but it works super great and it's only like $23.

u/Matad0r0 · 2 pointsr/subaru

I have an 01' but Im pretty sure that this, or something similar, will work and it looks pretty stock, you also need an RCA to 3.5mm adaptor, I got this one
this thing basically bypasses your FM antenna and gives you an aux input, I put mine under the climate control and the input and switch are hidden behind the DIN pocket

it looks like the antenna size might be different in the 06(i cant really tell), but there are adaptors

u/kstrike155 · 2 pointsr/Audi

IF you have an iPhone:

You can easily get bluetooth streaming with your factory head unit using a CoolStream or Tune2Air 1000 (if you have the factory iPod cable) or Tune2Air 3000 (if you don't).

I only have experience with the Tune2Air. It will provide very limited control of Spotify/Pandora. You can pause, fast forward, and rewind, but you can't change tracks (next or previous). It will show track information, but only if you hit the "info" button on the MMI. I've been happy, but wish I could do next/previous tracks. Certainly not a deal breaker. But it does provide full control of your local library on your iPhone, just like a normal iPod is connected.

u/Thetechguru_net · 1 pointr/GalaxyS8

A little more cable than you are looking for, but I have tried at least half a dozen of these. All were OK for music, but the microphones were crap for phone calls, even in expensive devices from well known brands. The Soundbot SB360 is the best I found https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/

Sound quality is excellent and callers tell me they don't know I am on a speakerphone.

You will need a 1/8" f-f stereo adapter to connect to your cassette adapter.

u/athauglas · 3 pointsr/saab

> It's currently in the center armrest, but I would really like to place it elsewhere.

> Also, while I'm at it, would it be possible to add a single USB port in that same general area, for charging a phone? Is there any advice or logic for that?

It sounds like you're playing something off your phone and charging it at the same time, and you have no easy way to change the music. Right?

I'm about to blow your mind. Boom.

integrated USB charger, minijack input, easy bluetooth pairing, high quality audio, hands-free calling with noise cancellation, and play/pause/skip/seek.

u/jorji · 1 pointr/cars

It's fun as hell do drive, especially in town. I love that it was designed by engineers who were aware that horsepower is not a be all end all. I live in Pittsburgh and can accellerate onto the parkway and up hills as fast as my lead-foot desires, and it's really a joy to throw into a curve.

Before picking the two, I test drove a Fiesta, a Fit, a Soul, and an SX4. I'd have added the Chevy Cruze to the mix, but I wanted a hatchback and wasn't willing to wait for the 2012s to become available. The Fit and Soul were both roomy, but under-powered. The Fiesta had a numb shifter, the SX4 had a too-lightly sprung accelerator, and the Soul's shifter was placed so closely to the seat that I found myself banging my elbow against the seat every time I changed gears.

My only complaints with the Mazda2 are that the gap between 1st and 2nd gear is big, and it is less than desirable for tall people, which is actually not my problem: I'm 5'11, but most of that is leg, and the Mazda2 has great leg room for its size. Also, they managed to put speed-sensitive volume adjustment, 2 trip computers, a fuel economy computer, and an ambient temperature display in it, but no bluetooth. I ended up buying one of these.

u/pqgbd · 3 pointsr/india

Not really overlooked, but I love the convenience of a magnetic mobile car dock (the one I have was extendable, and doesn't seem available anymore).

If your car is old and doesn't have built in bluetooth but does have an aux port - this is a great bluetooth receiver with built in mic (I got mine for INR 1747)

u/MetricT · 17 pointsr/nashville

I ordered this hands-free mount from Amazon and it's a good one. Thanks to voice recognition I can say "Hey Google, load the TDOT Smartway webserver" and it'll pop up. And with Bluetooth, I can take calls over my car's stereo system instead of using my hands. If you have an older car without Bluetooth, you can add it for $18 with this adapter. I have one in my older Subaru, and it's good to go there. It has a surprisingly good microphone built-in, as well as a quick charger.

u/SomeoneUkno · 1 pointr/Dashcam

I actually have everything you just mentioned, haha. I bought [this] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXC2329/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YSVwzb2RM8ZP6) because it's cheep and because of the location I have it in, it's easy to replace if needed. The mirror may not be the best place, but it was definitely an easy install. Thanks for your advice.

u/lampredotto · 2 pointsr/MINI

Yeah, I wouldn't let tech influence your decision too much, OP.

Bluetooth is super easy to add after the fact. I installed one of these in my Acura after the BT module died. It's unobtrusive, handles calls like a champ, streams music/podcasts flawlessly, and even interfaces with the "OK Google" voice commands on my Android smartphone. Oh, and it was $25.

As for keyless entry, yeah it's nice but it's the kind of feature I care about on my wife's minivan. For a hot hatch like the Mini, base your selection on the essentials of the driving experience.

u/etari · 1 pointr/Android

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - Supports AptX

Mine doesn't so i got one of these and I use it every day. I love it. It auto connects as soon as I turn my car on, if I have Bluetooth enabled on my phone (which i usually do.) Many cars build before cars came with bluetooth have audio input jacks to go into the stereo and you can put it on AUX mode to use it. I used to use a 3.5 mm male to male cable to plug my phone in, but this is way easier, it never goes dead because it plugs into the cars power adapter (cig-lighter). Basically it works the same as having Bluetooth built in when you have an older car with out Bluetooth built in. :)

u/unknown47 · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yes, I have one of these. Yes, it will auto-connect once paired. I would recommend a unit with the ability to skip tracks like the one posted above. It is a lot easier to change songs with a push of a button.
https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487627478&sr=8-1&keywords=soundbot+bluetooth
I use this in my other car.

u/pap3rw8 · 2 pointsr/Audi

I use an adapter called Tune2Air and it plugs right in to the AMI. It works great for me with both android and iPhone (with wifi off). The track info shows on the dash and skip buttons work even with Google Play Music on my iPhone. It works more reliably than a Lightning cable, and the occasional hiccup can be solved by reconnecting.

I got it in amazon, it was under $65.
Here: ViseeO Tune2Air WMA3000A Bluetooth Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/

I can pretty much guarantee that a normal USB dongle wouldn't work at all.

u/popsicle_of_meat · 1 pointr/saab

Alrighty, here we go:

Step 1 - I picked up a Kinovo Hands Free setup. Uses AptX codecs so the sound is high quality. I had to change the aux plug to something more low-profile to still use the cup holder. You can see it installed HERE, along with a magnetic phone mount and old phone showing the Torque app.

The next steps were done because I only had the base sound system, which leaved a lot to be desired.

Step 2 - Installed Kicker DSC35 speakers in the dash. See first pic HERE.

Step 3 - Install Saab OEM 6x9 woofers in the rear deck for $50 on ebay. See pics 2&3 of the imgur album.

Connect them to an amplifier. I got the amp for free from a buddy at work. He didn't need it and it had water damage, so I was lucky it worked. Pics 4-5 of the album. The amp had speaker level inputs, so I tapped the door woofer ouputs from the stock amplifier and use the 6x9s like mini subs.

The front kickers gave me real treble, and the woofers can thump pretty good. All in all, I've spent probably less than $150. I'll probably swap out the rear small speakers to something better soon, and I may add a real sub to fill out the low end better.

u/erikivy · 1 pointr/Nexus5

Pretty sure it's not a problem to do what you are asking, although I use a car kit for both streaming and phone calls. My wife and I both have this unit in our cars

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NLTW60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and love it. The sound quality is really good (to our ears, anyway) and it's very reasonably priced. Check out the reviews.

u/BreadSox · 1 pointr/technology

Ok in all seriousness get an aux to bluetooth adapter like this Kinivo BTC 450.

There are a bunch of them out there, but I have/recommend the Kinivo because it supports aptX (high quality sound over bluetooth). I think Belkin makes a pretty solid one as well.

u/jenorama_CA · 0 pointsr/Subaru_Outback

Oh, what a drag! You can't put a new head unit in because of the combined climate controls? Lame, Subaru. Lame. There's no headphone jack cleverly hidden somewhere?

It's been a really long time since I used an FM transmitter (used to use one for a portable CD player. Yes, I'm old), but in my experience they were okay, as long as you found a nice, empty channel. It was a pain when traveling and your previously empty channel would suddenly be Hot Hits 97.5 or whatever and you had to mess around and find another one. Now again, I'm showing my age, because the one I had back in the day used analog wheels to tune and it had a gross one and a fine one. These days they're all digital. I found this guy on Amazon. It's listed as their best seller and it seems pretty inexpensive to at least try out.

Good luck getting your tunes sorted out!

u/ReeceChambersIV · 2 pointsr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Besides the usual safety things like a jack or window smasher I would get a cassette to Bluetooth insert like this or a cassette to aux like this the radio isn’t much fun and you can then play your own music. I think a name that kinda comes naturally will end up being more meaningful than a forced one from the internet.

u/kvlle · 1 pointr/GrandCherokee

Can't offer any help on what you bought, but can recommend the approach I took to this....

FM Modulator

Pair that with a Bluetooth receiver and you can even have Bluetooth music at the flip of a switch. Have been using it for years, works excellent

Edit:

You'll probably also need this too... look into it... relatively easy install

u/dooshbox · 1 pointr/CarAV

Sorry little lady. Well.. depends how into your cars audio system are you, do you really care how it sounds(I.e Planning for future upgrades), or are you just wanting a quick fix?

Something like this would be super quick and easy, if your radio has RCA inputs on the back.

Question, do you know which radio it is? Base, Premium etc.

u/thespotts · 1 pointr/gadgets

If you're interested in Bluetooth on the cheap, I got a Bluetooth adapter from Amazon for about $19. Plugged it in to a 3.5mm to cassette adapter in my 25 year old 4runner and it works great! Definitely recommend.

Edit: I got this one

u/rubin110 · 1 pointr/AndroidAuto

This might be an elaborate way of answering your first question, but mostly I wanted to write out my experience of doing this exact thing. Also apparently I need to split this up into 2 replies.

​

I have an AVH-W4400NEX and a 2012 Prius Plug-In. After buying all the stuff I needed...

u/Dick_Giggles · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

My car only has aux as well. I still have a headphone jack but I wanted something automatic. I bought this mpow bt reciever and it works great. It auto pairs when you turn on the car (some need a button push). Also when it is paired I have it set to stay unlocked and go into android auto. Pretty slick!

u/embo500 · 2 pointsr/f150

If you get one, also get the TAP adapter, and the Hardwire kit. They're pretty cheap.

Using this, I ran the hardwire kit up behind the rear view mirror, behind the headliner, down the plastic on the A pillar, and back behind the kickpanel and into the fuse box with the TAP adapter. I can't remember which fuse I used without looking but it's wired into one where the camera automatically comes on whenever the accessory is active or the truck is running. When I turn off the truck, the camera turns off, automatically. I don't have to do anything except clear off the saved videos once every 6 months or so.

u/marcsupial · 1 pointr/iphone

I was in your same shoes about a year ago. The market for these devices has evolved considerably since then.

I personally own and use this one from Belkin:
Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version

Like I said, I purchased that a year ago tho.

Recently I purchased this one for a friend:
Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX

Its a little nicer in that it has navigation controls on top. The Belkin one requires multiple taps of a button for navigation and I have found it is hit or miss.

Here is one that is a little more discrete but doesn't have the USB port the others do that allow you to charge your phone:
Griffin Technology BlueTrip AUX for iPhone and Smartphones

Hope this helps!

u/LocationBot · 1 pointr/legaladvice

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Author: /u/ohNole

Title: I purchased a phone charger off of Amazon and it broke my phone.

Original Post:

> The charger in question is here. I plugged my phone in and it went black after a few minutes, then went into this cycle of showing the Apple screen then going black again - over and over until it died. Tried the phone this morning and to no avail - same thing. My phone's battery is shot, the home button/finger scanner is not functioning due to lack of power (can't do hard reset), and the phone won't turn on.
> At the least I want Amazon to cover the price of the replacement battery (if that's the solution), but what happens if the phone is shot? Is amazon liable? The page even specifically says, "Smart output current pairs all cellphone and tablet, safely charging to your device without damage to the battery."




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u/bicyclemom · 3 pointsr/Android
  • I like the Moto Power Pack Micro. Handy to have a keychain battery pack, which can also act as a phone finder and trusted device.

  • Also have to give props to the Hula case that my phone came with. Makes it nice and grippy.

  • The Kinivo BTC 450 car bluetooth adapter is great if you have an old car that lacks built-in bluetooth.
u/ryan770 · 4 pointsr/iphone

I bought this and I’m super happy with it.

Only thing is Siri is really muffled for some reason, but music is extremely clear, and I’m picky.

Since it stays plugged in, it doesn’t need charging. My phone pairs with it right when I turn my car on, and I say “hey Siri, resume podcast” and don’t have to touch anything. It’s nice.

u/Artificial_Cinnamon · 1 pointr/CrappyDesign

I'm not discounting the problem at all. I completely agree.

Have you looked at the car Bluetooth adapters?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.L33AbA1WWYSD

I don't endorse that one specifically, but I've been using one for years in my car. Automatically connects when I get in, they're pretty excellent.

u/motoridersd · 5 pointsr/GooglePixel

You can connect your phone to multiple devices that handle different features. My BF's Maxima only has phone support, but he uses a Kinivo Bluetooth Receiver plugged into the aux port for A2DP audio. Phone calls still go through the car's handsfree system. I recommend you look for a bluetooth receiver that supports Apt X to get better audio quality. This is the one we use

​

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

u/live_life_love · 2 pointsr/iphone

I have not used the mophie wireless charging car vent mount, so I cannot comment on that product, though it does look pretty neat if it works well. In case others comment and share a negative experience about that product, I wanted to share my setup for a few ideas.

I have an iPhone XS Max, so no headphone jack, and an older car, so no built-in bluetooth.

I use the iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Universal Phone Holder to mount my phone to the windshield.

(I noticed you mentioned a vent mount, there are plenty of options available for that type of mount as well.)

Then, I use the Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kit - this allows me to play my music on my phone via bluetooth by connecting an audio cable into the Aux jack in my car and I can charge my phone using a lightning cable. I chose this model since it is powered via the car charger instead having to deal with rechargeable bluetooth adapters.

It may seem a little clunky, but it works well until I purchase a new car (I'm currently at 185,000 miles).

Products Mentioned:

iOttie Easy One Touch 2 Car Mount Universal Phone Holder for iPhone X 8/8 Plus 7 7 Plus 6s Plus 6s 6 SE Samsung Galaxy S9 S9 Plus S8 Plus S8 Edge S7 S6 Note 8 5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRGOKQ8/

Mpow MBR2 Bluetooth Car Kits for Hands-Free Calling, Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Aux Adapter 3 in 1 with Dual USB Car Charger & Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio System (HFP/HSP/A2DP/AVRCP) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0739RGDFJ/

​

u/budjb · 4 pointsr/CarAV
u/Flying_Assassin · 1 pointr/LifeProTips

If you're interested, here's the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANDHBNS/ref=oh_details_o04_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I lied, it's closer to 10 bucks actually. But a few key things about it is that it has no battery and needs to be plugged into a USB port to run. Whether that be a computer or cheap wall charger doesn't matter.

On the plus side, because it has no battery, it's always on and doesn't have power-off power saving features. This is nice so you can stick it in an awkward place behind a stereo system out of sight and not have to worry about turning it on again after x amount of time of inactivity.

Edit: it says iPhone/iPad and stuff, but it should work fine with anything that does Bluetooth audio. Like I said it works great for me with my tablet, a Nexus 7.

u/3raser · 7 pointsr/shutupandtakemymoney

I have this one http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60 and it's easily the best thing I've ever bought for my car.

It works perfectly

u/DirteeCanuck · 2 pointsr/G35

I used the aux kit and added a bluetooth amp for 50 bucks.

Car connects when it turns on and can play music just fine without some bullshit FM transmitter. Cost $100.

All wireless and the voice works as well.

You wire everything into the armrest and I drilled holes for the transmitter placed just below the stick shift. Barely noticeable and I can switch songs very quickly;.

I thought I would be buying a double din setup down the road but I am very impressed with this setup so far. My phone can stay in my pocket all the music and calls work seamlessly.

I think if I did my speakers I would just add a 4 channel amp in the trunk and bybass a headunit all together.


Before I bought the bluetooth dongle I just plugged phone directly into the aux kit using it's 3.5mm. I thought the dongle would drop quality over the phones built in amp but I have noticed no difference and now it's fully wireless and has a built in mic for calls.


Here's my setup:


Aux Kithttps://www.amazon.com/iSimple-ISNI531-Automotive-Auxiliary-Infiniti/dp/B0072L7W7O/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=g35+aux+kit&qid=1571875449&sr=8-2

The amp- This one works great turns on and off with car.

https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=sxin_4_osp48-96dd736e_cov?ascsubtag=96dd736e-c0e4-4c96-99e7-fa0f3d21e869&creativeASIN=B0769DXZTV&cv_ct_id=amzn1.osp.96dd736e-c0e4-4c96-99e7-fa0f3d21e869&cv_ct_pg=search&cv_ct_wn=osp-search&keywords=car+bluetooth+receiver&linkCode=oas&pd_rd_i=B0769DXZTV&pd_rd_r=8d2fbcf6-71bf-405e-9764-04801f0a8240&pd_rd_w=D03Wj&pd_rd_wg=sXdZq&pf_rd_p=a23a388c-add5-49df-b293-a31ade89c6bf&pf_rd_r=1ZFRS8ED3NNK4AR3BD1X&qid=1571875483&tag=spyonsite-20

u/Eugene_Debs_Hartke · 1 pointr/asheville

Great advice. I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado that had an "Aux" setting. I had something similar to the Scosche installed in my truck, with an aux plug that I could use. Google your make and model of car and "Aux" and you should be able to find the right thing to order. I had mine installed by the Stereo Man http://ncstereoman.com/info/category/home/.

Also, if you get that installed, I recommend this for plugging into your aux and being able to have bluetooth. Works great in my truck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSUWCZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/BruceInc · 1 pointr/mercedes_benz

Yea you can skip songs, play/pause, and control volume from steering wheel and dash buttons.

If you already have the media cable then this (or something like it) is what you need

Bovee 1000 Wireless Bluetooth Music Interface Adapter for in Car iPod Integration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B52LLJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Rer0Bb6WP6BTA


If you don’t have the media cable, something like this will probably be better since the cable is like $150 from the dealership (if I remember correctly)

Bovee Bluetooth Car Kit for AUDI, VW, MB - Music Interface Adaptor for in car iPod Integration (WMA3000A AMI/MDI/MMI connector) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uir0BbQ4F6KBT


Before you buy anything make sure you have the media port. Mine was located in the glove compartment on the left side.

u/redditfromwork · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yes, any decent amp should come with the remote gain knob (shitty amps come with bass boost knob, which you absolutely do not want to use), if it doesn't just pick up a PAC-LC1 for $10-15. Lots of people running very high end gear run those, it's especially helpful for controlling multiple amps at once since it attenuates the input signal.

u/Engibineer · 1 pointr/vwgolf

I have one of these Bluetooth adapters in my Mazda. It plugs in to the aux input and it has physical buttons and a microphone on a small unit with a magnetic release that you put somewhere convenient. You could connect either your Android or your iPhone to it and then the other phone to your car's Bluetooth. It's a kludge but maybe it will accomplish what you need.

I was told that my 2017 Alltrack would accept two simultaneous Bluetooth connections, but that appears to be incorrect. Interestingly, the instructions for that Bluetooth adapter also say that two simultaneous connections are possible, but I haven't been able to get it to work either. Bluetooth is just bad.

u/mahoneycutt · 1 pointr/ProjectFi

That's a good question. How do I check which profile is being using for my car? Can I change the profile?

​

What baffles me is all functions of the phone (calls, podcasts, MP3s) work perfectly with my Jeep - just

not voicemail playback.

​

I didn't mention this, but I've used a MPOW Bluetooth receiver (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078TD6D72/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the last year and it works fine with the phone and the car speakers (via the AUX port).

​

Thanks

u/3minutekarma · 1 pointr/MINI

Well, I'll update my own thread.

The best rated cord I could find on Amazon was this one, liked it because it was the higest rated cable of its type.

Head over to the car audio place, they said it would be $75 to replace the cable. After they tear out the current set up, found out that I had an original iPod interface box behind my stereo. Kinda looks like this

Downside is the 30-pin cable is a din interface, and not a USB like I thought. So either I could order the right cable and wait a week or have something else installed.

Ended up getting the Tranzit Blue HF kit installed for $200 total. Phone connects to the box via Bluetooth and then the box transmits on an FM station you select through the app. They also installed a button and a mike on the dash to control the app. If you have the transmitter on it drowns out most other FM stations, so a 4-second hold on the button will turn it on so I can stream from my phone or turn off to listen to AM/FM. The kit also auto-connects to my phone and Siri works great with it.

The last option would be to have an aftermarket stereo installed that has a bluetooth connection, but also a USB interface and an AUX interface. The downside here is the steering wheel controls wouldn't be operational with them and would require yet another aftermarket kit to have the volume/channel up/down buttons work. That cost was around $450.

So mildly more than what I wanted to pay, but it's been working well since I've gotten it. Nice to be able to listen to music/podcasts without a distracting hiss.

u/mapin · 1 pointr/technology

You can get a BT receiver that plugs into the Aux jack. Works great with my 1+1. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

The only thing the 1+1 is missing is Apt-X support which would provide higher quality Bluetooth audio. That said, in the car, it all sounds great given the noisy environment you are in.

u/bengineered · 2 pointsr/Nexus6P

Yes, it would require power. Some receivers have batteries that need to be recharged, others just need to be plugged in via USB (which is NBD for me, since I always have a car charger for my phone anyways).

I've been using the SB360 for the last couple years and I've been quite happy with it, as have the other people who I've recommended it to.

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mxhEAb3X8FAC7

u/solbrothers · 2 pointsr/Cartalk

it wouldn't be an FM transmitter if it plugged into the aux jack. It'd be a blutooth receiver.

I have this one and I love it. Works perfect in my 2007 Honda Fit with stock headunit.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY

u/fuckingbugz · 1 pointr/audiophile

Post Removed so I'm pasting it here as sub suggested:

I just got a Samsung UN50RU7100 TV. Only audio output options are Bluetooth, "TV Speaker" and "Digital Audio Out (Optical)". I want to connect my old B&W DM330s.

Considering either:

A) Getting an optical to RCA adapter and then an amplifier and then converting the loose speaker wires to RCA (https://www.amazon.ca/Techole-Converter-192kHz-Aluminum-Converter-Headphone/dp/B07XMLGXFD/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=optical+to+rca&qid=1574355994&sprefix=optical+to+&sr=8-4) (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Preamplifier-Headphone-Amplifier-Audio/dp/B07TJS2DBT/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=amplifier&qid=1574357280&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=ADPE7GPX91ORE&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE5S1lPWE9IUFlDSUcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA2ODcxMTBVOUdPWVJTWlVKOUQmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDQzNTA0OVlUODBIT1ozNUxPWCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl) (https://www.amazon.ca/Haokiang-Speaker-Terminal-Connector-Adapter/dp/B07FQ7TCMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=speaker+wire+to+rca&qid=1574357340&sr=8-4)

B) use the same amplifier and speaker wire adapters as A but instead of optical use a Bluetooth device (https://www.amazon.ca/TUNAI-Firefly-Smallest-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01HDO66NK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=bluetooth+receiver&qid=1574357436&sprefix=bluetooth+receiber&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySzZBVUdaVldSSEVUJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTczMDc1SVBBSlpaUFdNTlBMJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3NzEwNzQxTjk2MzQzR0c0MzlIJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfcGhvbmVfc2VhcmNoX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=)

Which option should I go for? Will I lose sound quality going Bluetooth? Is there a better way to do this I haven't thought of? Any suggestions appreciated. Cheers.

u/Steelersgirl20 · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

November 11th. And hmm boy :)

20.00 and 40.00
Thanks so much and congrats!

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

The simplest way is to get a passive volume control, like this one, or a higher end one, like the mackie big knob passive. I have that one and like it a lot.

A better way is a dac/amp combo like the fiio k3, schiit fulla 2, etc.

You plug the speakers into the dac output using the correct cable, set the physical volume on your speakers (I usually go around 75%) and use the volume knob on the dac/amp to adjust while listening. And being that you're using the dac instead of onboard sound, you'll probably get less noise and interference.

u/Imastupididiot · 2 pointsr/Wrangler

As for the AUX jack, I bought this which plugs into the back of your stock stereo. (Which should work on your Jeep, but I would pull out your stereo to make sure the jack for it is actually there). Then I bought this and hooked everything up and it works perfectly.

u/CorinthianLeatherMan · 3 pointsr/gadgets

I have this one and love it!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLTW60/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416721052&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

It has buttons on it to pair, pause/play, and volume control. I have it in my center console compartment with my aux port, never touch it really, I use my phone mounted on the dash. 99% of the time it connects automatically when I turn my Bluetooth on, the other one percent I have to open the console and just tap the main button real quick and it pairs.

Another nice thing is the cigarette charger for the power has an aux converter built in as well. Can't speak highly enough about the unit, I researched a few and they're all around this price range too.

Here's some more!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?k=bluetooth+car+adapter

u/the_resident_skeptic · 27 pointsr/Music

Not sure about the 2010, but my previous car (02 Taurus) had a tape deck. A CD player, or if you were really rich, a 6-CD changer were options. I ended up buying a bluetooth cassette adapter which worked OK.

u/WillsMyth · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

Get this. I've had it for over a year in my Cadillac and it works perfectly. Whenever you hop in just push the button and it's ready. The built in mic makes the speaker phone flawless too.

Belkin Hands-Free Bluetooth Car Kit for Apple iPod, Apple iPhone, BlackBerry,and Android Smartphones, US Version https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CLYJ2I/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_q3tVub0FDH3GV

u/RazielKainly · 1 pointr/pixel2

I got this......
Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - Supports AptX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


With this device I am able to just connect via Bluetooth instead of aux and free up the USB c Port for charging.

The device works perfectly everytime

u/matu4251 · 1 pointr/technology

I got this one a few weeks ago for my wife and ended up buying another one for me to replace the one I was using. It works really well. It pairs automatically to your phone when you turn on the ignition. You can skip songs. It gives you hand free phone and access to Siri without getting your phone out. Well worth the price. Since I stopped using cable about two years ago I haven't had to fiddle with the connection to have stereo or any sound at all (every few month I had to replace the cable).

u/robertgentel · 1 pointr/technology

A while back I found several under $20 on Amazon. I bought this one and it works fine: https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473310035&sr=8-4&keywords=bluetooth+auto

I used to use the 3.5mm jack but wireless is actually a nicer experience, just start the car and it pairs and I can press a button on it to start the music (and skip tracks etc).

I much prefer bluetooth everything and no wires, I am not going to mourn the 3.5mm jack, I'm looking forward to more and better wireless solutions.

u/kspdrgn · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yes, avoid +db on any part of your signal path, be it a head unit setting or bass boost knob.

Set gains to maximize clean output, then use something like an RCA cable volume knob to dial down your sub to taste.

u/itcrackerjack · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

In my garage, I run a chromecast hooked up to this guy running a pair of 8" speakers from the 80s. :https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077Z7DBRT It's 20w and powers them just fine for the whole 2-car garage. I'm not recommending that for high volume, but it does the job. A used receiver would work really well too, they're just much larger.

​

You can get a pretty simple RCA pot volume control knob on amazon that you could use for the sub. https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/

u/goldberg1303 · 1 pointr/Android

$14

$26

Personally, I'd splurge for teh $26 unit since it has the ground loop isolator, and hands free calling, but the cheaper one offers less clutter.

Like I said, whether you have a headphone jack or not, I'd definitely consider either of those a good investment. And it has the bonus of making the lack of a headphone jack in your car an afterthought.

u/Bezzle59 · 3 pointsr/CarAV

Based on what they want, they don't need a parrot device. Could just get something like this. Could easily be hardwired in if they don't want to give up a plug.

Edit: This is an even better solution since it's meant to be hardwired and has an aux output so it doesn't need to be used as an FM modulator.

u/tman2damax11 · 3 pointsr/iphone

I just got a dedicated Bluetooth cassette tape: https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

It's awesome that you don't even know it's there and the battery lasts like 1.5 months.

u/LostReaction · 1 pointr/ZReviews

So when I bought mine I ordered one of these amplifier controller thingies. I have it connected between my DAC and the 305's. It works well enough but I've found it more convenient just to adjust the volume in Windows. I have the actual volume on the back of each monitor set to "5" to prevent me from easily maxing out the volume in windows. With the volume at 5 these are plenty loud enough for a desk.

You had the right idea with the line level controller. I personally don't hear a difference between in sound quality with using the line level controller and having it disconnected but I know some people are much more critical than I am.

Good luck with your setup!

u/magnites · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

You have several options:

  1. Easy, cheapest, move on with your life
    Buy the cable sociojeje linked (or whatever one you want as long as it goes from one 3.5mm to dual mono 1/4 inch). Plug 3.5mm into soundcard/onboard audio and 1/4 inch into the inputs on each speaker. Since you want to leave the volume control on the back of the monitors in one position and never touch it again, with this setup you will be using your PC for volume control, which usually sucks.

    2)I want to control volume outside of windows approach
    Get an inline volume control (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002J226O/?coliid=I21HE0GYZHPUID&colid=1VYF10R99G2UC&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it is the cheapest one I can find). You get a 3.5mm to dual rca cable from your pc to the input on the volume control, then two rca to 1/4" from the control to the monitors. Leave windows at like 75-100% volume (you are going to have to experiment) and use the volume knob on the inline to control volume. This is also the ideal solution if you have an external DAC or buy one at some point (which you should)

    3)I want all the things, but dont want to spend a lot of money
    Buy this: https://www.amazon.ca/Micca-OriGen-G2-Resolution-Preamplifier/dp/B01N14SY65/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540965426&sr=8-2&keywords=micca+origen+g2

    This an external DAC AND headphone amplifier in one. What makes this one special, is that you can switch between headphone out and line out (speaker) with the toggle switch at the front. This will replace your soundcard once its plugged in by USB and will also serve as your volume control. If you have headphones, it would be plugged into this as well. Cable wise, it would be USB from PC to the Dac (included with unit), then two RCA to 1/4" mono cables from the dac/headphone amp to the speakers
u/kevan0317 · 5 pointsr/ToyotaTacoma

Oh man it was stupid easy. Took maybe 5 minutes to do total.

Bought this and this from Amazon and installed with the factory radio. It just plugs right into the back with no issue on my non-JBL radio.

Both come with good instructions and a quick YouTube search to learn how to pop the radio out made quick work of it. Sound quality is crystal clear.

I loath aftermarket radios. The way they look and function is just hideous compared to where technology is. Alternatively I can't afford a $600 touchscreen unit. I'm a firm believer in just leaving things alone, leaving them stock so this fit right into my budget and methods. Very happy with the way it turned out. Sleek, elegant and simple.

u/cardfire · 1 pointr/AndroidAuto

TL;DR -- OPTIONS:

1. BT-->Aux car kit adapter, with a big button that, when held, gives voice assistant prompt. also handy for pause/resume without reaching for stereo deck.

2. Physical Mic-button on my Pioneer stereo unit.

3. Eventually finding and troubleshooting why my Android phone won't listen to mic for ambient "OK GOOGLE" requests when screen is locked/asleep. I'm not there yet.

---
Option 1.

Before I bought my new stereo for my new-old-car, I bought a highly-recommended MPOW BT-->AUX car kit from Amazon after scouring reviews.

I hated it.

It directly led to me shelling out almost $500 for a new head unit, steering control adapter and enough cabling to wire a space shuttle prepping to go into orbit.

BUT I haven't yet returned it to Amazon, and after admiring its One Big Button on the face of the thing (and the elegant magnet mount) I figured "what the hell."

My Android phone still paired with it automatically, even while also paired to the head unit simultaneously.

I pushed the button and it paused my music.

I booped the button again and it unpaused.

I pressed it firmly for FOUR OR FIVE FREAKING SECONDS and it promped me with the Google Assistant cue. Success.

---
Option 2.
I checked the PDF manuals online (pg's 26/27) and found the following Pioneer AVH-series head units have essentially the same instructions for "Voice Recognition (for iPhone)" which appears to have the correct equivalent behavior for Android devices (and I'm assuming the other NEX series models have the same button):

AVH-2440 AVH-2400 AVH-1440 AVH-1400NEX

[AVH-2440 AVH-2400 AVH-1440 AVH-1400]
(https://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/AVH-2440_2400_1440_1400NEX_OpManual062918.pdf)

That fat little bumblebee logo on my stereo was actually an obvious Mic emblem the whole while. This is technically a physical button that will consistently prompt my Google Assistant, even if the button is smallish and doesn't really lend itself to pressing without looking (I'll orient my hands against the 'Eject' button seated to the ride of it).

---
Option 3.
I think the holy grail would be if I could figure out why the menu for (Android P) Settings-->Assist App (Settings)-->"Voice Match" grays out "Access with Voice Match" in order to access Assistant any time even if screen is off.

If anybody has experience with this, I'd love to hear about it.

u/Axeavius · 1 pointr/htcone

My car is weird about bluetooth (it only does phone calls), so I've strongly considered getting that HTC Bluetooth Clip thingy. But, to be honest, I'd probably go with something like this Belkin Bluetooth Car Kit (currently $44.79 on Amazon). It hooks up to your aux input and you transmit your music to it via bluetooth. The only downside is that you wouldn't get track information like you would with connecting directly to your stereo via bluetooth.

On a side note, I do have the Belkin Bluetooth Music Receiver (currently $20.09 on Amazon). It's the same concept but for home use. I have it hooked up to one of the inputs on my receiver, and any of my bluetooth-enabled devices (HTC One, iPhone, MacBook Air) can connect to it. It's super convenient!

u/Thatpurplexj · 3 pointsr/E90

All of the aftermarket Android units have junk audio quality and as of late there still isn't a fix for it. I use the tunai firefly bluetooth adapter and my phone connects immediately without having to do anything but press play. It's not car play or anything but certainly better than having to connect each time.

u/saarlac · 3 pointsr/iphone

I have this and it works great.
It lives in the center console (plugged into the usb port there), aux cable snaked under console to front aux port. I never have to touch it. Cumbersome is not a term I would use to describe this setup. I would say invisible, functional, or nearly as good as a factory bluetooth head unit. Certainly not cumbersome.

u/METEOS_IS_BACK · 119 pointsr/iphone

Actually I have a Bluetooth cassette adapter that's super cool. People get amazed when they see it.

EDIT: link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OsvXBb4J008NP

u/Ferrari-559 · 1 pointr/cars

I have recently bought this and it works perfectly.
Also, if you are in the US, use this website to find the best station in your area
http://elecurls.tripod.com/fm-free.htm

u/jinsaku · 1 pointr/CarAV

This looks great. Does it auto-start your music as well as soon as it reconnects? (assuming it's only been a few minutes or so)

(EDIT: That looks like it's possible a knockoff? No labeling. This looks like the same Mpow one and only $5 more)

u/Michael_A_Alan · 1 pointr/GalaxyS6

Do yourself a favor:
http://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60
I've used one of these for years and it works great. Plug it into your aux Jack and pair it with your phone and now your car has Bluetooth. It supports both HFP (phone calls) and A2DP (Music) and it has physical buttons for media control and answering calls.

u/Utilityj · 0 pointsr/BMW

This is what i use for my 08 328i. Great sound quality imo and I think the best perk is the buttons it has on it so I dont have to look and fumble with my phone to change songs.

u/ivtecdoyou · 12 pointsr/Android

I bought a bluetooth adapter that plugs into my car's aux port, and it works excellently. It has a next and previous song button and play/pause button so that I never have to pull my phone up to change anything. I love it and don't see myself ever going back to using an aux cable, Can Be Found Here

u/getthething · 1 pointr/apple

I know you said you didn't want to use Bluetooth as to avoid sacrificing audio quality but you may want to look at this. I have one and I love it. The audio is slightly quieter but not any worse than direct with aux.

You plug one cable into the aux and one into the cigarette lighter. It adds Bluetooth calling and buttons to play/pause and skip tracks. And it gives you a USB port so you don't lose the ability to charge when you want.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLTW60/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1413431025&sr=8-1

u/idevxy · 3 pointsr/Android

I have a Bluetooth audio receiver that plugs into the AUX jack. It works really well. Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0769DXZTV/

Bonus: hands free calling.

u/TexturedSoyProtein · 2 pointsr/essential

There are a bunch of FM transmitters that are only a little bit bigger than a regular car charger, and have different higher powered USB ports on them that may work for you.

​

This one is from Anker, it doesn't have any specific quick charge standard, but it does have "intelligent" USB ports. Usually these do a good job of keeping things topped up.

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GJ7DHMP

​

There are some other random ones with 2 USB ports and at least 1 of them is QC3.0:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Transmitter-Ainope-Wireless-Bluetooth-Compatible/dp/B07DMHMRV5/

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Transmitter-Hands-Free-Compatible-Electronics/dp/B0771M35KW/

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/

​

And this one, the FM transmitter controls are on a gooseneck thing, but the second non-QC3.0 USB port is 2.4A, if you care about such things.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Display-Compatible/dp/B0761NJRQY/

u/theflyingcolumn · 1 pointr/LandRover

Alternatively if your Disco still has an original deck, ION makes a wireless Bluetooth Tape Adapter. It has a rechargeable battery that lasts about 4 hours. Sound quality is very good for $20.



I contemplated doing some modification to the sound system to rig up an Aux or Bluetooth connection but I've got enough electrical issues to deal with with out cutting wires! Looks like you know what you're doing though - nicely done.

u/ArkAngel06 · 1 pointr/Android

I recommend one of these. They work great and let you control the music tracks, podcasts, audiobooks from the controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-T2GzbVJHKWSM

And you might need of these if you get a little bit of feedback like me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gV2Gzb37VFTSN

u/RJB919 · 2 pointsr/mazda3

For my 2008 Mazda 3 HB, I bought this Bluetooth receiver from Taotronics (Link ). So far it has worked out well and been more than usable. I would recommend it as it’s easy to install and use, and the sound quality is more than acceptable.

u/anyones_ghost27 · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

Yep, I have a nifty $20 Bluetooth adapter for my old car and it works very very well. My phone always connects as soon as I turn on the car. I do recommend getting the anti-feedback ground loop noise isolator thingy if you're using an aux port, though.

u/absolutarin · 1 pointr/Audi

If you're sure that the 30-pin adapter is working properly, try this one rather than plugging your phone to the insanely short cable in the glove box.
https://www.amazon.com/ViseeO-Tune2Air-WMA3000A-Bluetooth-Adapter/dp/B00R2HZ1XU/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465825302&sr=8-4&keywords=audi+mmi+cable

It looks like a good solution to me.

u/thebiglachovsky · 1 pointr/Android
u/sfw_throwit121 · 1 pointr/civic
u/Preclude · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

There are two good ways to do this:
Option 1:
Grab yourself a set of these. https://www.amazon.com/CableWholesales-Audio-Piggyback-Cable-Female/dp/B000I94FAE/
Plug the double sided end into your source, and then feed the other end to your speakers. You'll then plug another set of RCA into the open ends on the source and send them to your Sub.
Option 2: If you don't like using the windows volume control, then you'll get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/
Also this: https://www.amazon.com/Link-BM105-Male-Barrel-Connectors/dp/B001NCDBEQ
The Barrel connectors will go into your source. Then plus the controller into the barrel connectors, then the piggyback cable into the other end of the controller. Then plug your RCA into backside of the Piggyback and put one set into the speakers, and one set into the sub.
Once you've chosen from the two options, you'll need to set up the speaker and the sub so the volume matches.
To do that I would turn the computer audio up to maximum. Then, turn your speakers up as loud as you would ever comfortably listen to them. Then get your subwoofer gain and crossover where you want it. You will then use your PC volume/or the control nob to control the volume of both of them. If you use the control nob, your PC volume will always be at max.
EDIT: You might also need this to get the sound from your motherboard audio out to RCA: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-105597-3-Feet-Premium-Stereo/dp/B0094A1F3S/

u/voide · 1 pointr/infiniti

I have this one from Amazon and it works great. I'm no audiophile by any means, but I am quality conscious and I've never noticed any issues.

Edit: Just found this one which looks similar, is cheaper, and also has great reviews.

u/tmouser123 · 1 pointr/tmobile

Yea i had a similar issue. I have an amazing integrated sound system so can change it out. I ended up getting this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FRU5UNA

Works great. But totally understand you waiting for a proper setup

u/Kralizec555 · 1 pointr/nexus4

As others have suggested, if it's a slightly older model it is possible that the built-in bluetooth will only support phone calls and not media. If that is the case, you will need to seek another route.

Just my two cents, if your car has an auxiliary audio in jack (looks like a headphone jack), then you can use a bluetooth adapter to wirelessly stream audio rather than plugging in every time. I use this model in my car and it works beautifully.

u/Tinksy · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

Similar to another suggestion, I use this -

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_w-ZXBb40221V9

I give it permission to play audio but not phone in the BT settings so calls still go through the car, but audio works perfectly with it!

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/DIY

It can absolutely be spliced.
As someone who recently made a head unit for my older car with a Raspberry Pi, Bluetooth music and calling, OBDII reading, and WiFi, I'll tell you it's not too hard to add it to something like this.

Use something like a Kinivo or a cheapo Mpow.

(If you want more info on the head unit build, I'll be making a full DIY post in the next few weeks once I have the time :) )

u/devinepope · 6 pointsr/gadgets

I did this in my '08 Chevy impala. Use this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004CLYJ2I/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

All you have to do is plug in the cigarette lighter the and the aux plug. Read the instructions. It's fairly simple and useful. Also it can answer calls so you don't have to switch between stuff.

For extra win you can grab an NFC tag and you can program it to connect your phone and any other phone to it automatically so your friends and use their music if you want.

Source: my setup

If you have any questions whatsoever feel free to ask!! :-)

u/In_Dying_Arms · 0 pointsr/CarAV

>neither Visions nor Geek Squad (best buy) know how to install an aux input.

Either you asked the wrong questions or didn't listen to them correctly. You can either add something like the IS32 but at that point you're better off just getting a new radio like this one.

u/artaru · 5 pointsr/technology

I couldn't find it quickly but it was something like this.

Most of these things also have mics built in so you can talk or use Siri hands free.

u/alientity · 6 pointsr/audible

Most vehicles have an AUX input (older vehicles usually have a CD Changer option, which in many cases, can be converted to an AUX input using an adapter), so even a cheap AUX->BlueTooth adapter would address this (and it's just nice to have if you're a smartphone user).

There are so many of these devices on the market, you can find them at your local WalMart, Target, Best Buy, etc., or Amazon (example).

Another option is to find a really cheap (even used) SmartPhone, and download the content via Audible while on your WiFi network at home (or a public hotspot if you don't have access at home).

Even BlackBerry has one of these (and works really well).

u/clambert11 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

This really is the best solution but everyone has different needs. The sound quality is fantastic and my sub still carries bass with it.

Mpow Bluetooth 4.1 Receiver with Built-in Noise Isolator, Hands-Free Car Kits & Bluetooth Aux Car Adapter with Dual USB Car Charger & 3M Magnetic Mounting Base for Car Audio System (G-3 for MBR2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TD6D72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XpEWBbBMKD04J

u/Djs3634 · 3 pointsr/BuyItForLife

I bought it, it seemed great but the problem I had with it was that you had to manually turn it on and off. I wanted something that turned on and off with the car. I bought this instead, who knows if it's BIFL or not with that said I'm very happy with it.

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - supports aptX by Kinivo http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_r0sVub14M1MAM

u/Myteus · 17 pointsr/nostalgia

Get a bluetooth one with a built in mic and boom, wireless music and hands free phone talking. It works great!

https://www.amazon.com/ION-Audio-Cassette-Adapter-Bluetooth/dp/B00I3YLHAC

u/Satanbakesale · 2 pointsr/KGATLW

Yo! ION Audio Cassette Adapter Bluetooth | Bluetooth Music Receiver for Cassette Decks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I3YLHAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vFHMzb8H6FVM9

I've had one for more than a year and it work perfectly! Wayyy better than a fm transmitter

u/primo_pastafarian · 1 pointr/Android

Get this.

https://smile.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/

You can run the wires behind the dashboard to keep the cables out of the way. Personally, I put a car power adapter back up there too. The only thing that is visible is the control interface.

This shit's amazing. Added benefit, you won't get charging frequencies / noise / static feedback playing back on audio while you're charging.

u/dapipminmonkey · 1 pointr/pixel2

I purchased a Bluetooth FM transmitter for my car awhile back and it's usable. I'm not an audiophile, and if you're not too concerned about audio quality it's pretty nice. My father had borrowed my car for two weeks awhile back and really liked it, considering what it was. After the first week I mentioned it sort of cuts out some of the highs and lows and he was then able to notice it. Audiobooks and podcasts on he other hand sound just fine.

u/abezzilla99 · 3 pointsr/oneplus

You can either use a usb-c to 3.5mm adapter and go back to using an the aux cord or you could use something like I've linked below. Adds bluetooth functionality to your aux port. I personally use an fm transmitter (roav brand has been the best in my experience) but I know static can be an issue like you said.

​

https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Microphone-Cancellation/dp/B0769DXZTV/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2JEEZRSN5A46A&keywords=aux+to+bluetooth&qid=1564523191&s=gateway&sprefix=aux+to+bl%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-13

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Wireless-Hands-Free/dp/B00O8FYUJA/ref=sr_1_8?crid=2JEEZRSN5A46A&keywords=aux+to+bluetooth&qid=1564523191&s=gateway&sprefix=aux+to+bl%2Caps%2C173&sr=8-8

u/alone-on-earth · 1 pointr/Guitar

cool, thanks for the link!.. That appears to be the only thing of its kind available on the web.. Do you know what would be the appropriate configuration (mono/stereo, pot value) for something like the Kemper? And is that knob not the same thing as, say, this?

u/CorpseMunging · 2 pointsr/BmwTech

I highly recommend this. Sure it isn't 100% integrated but the price is right and it has great sound quality.

>

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Car Kit (Hands-Free Adapter for Cars with 3.5mm Aux Input, Apt-X) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Wt4yDb0M2NBPN

u/Mostlydave · 1 pointr/audible

I would think about a radio transmitter like this:

[](Bluetooth FM Transmitter for Car, QC3.0 Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Music Player Car Kit with Hands Free Calling and 2 USB Ports Charger Support USB Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_r-vxCbEZJNJH1)

As long as your radio works

u/DnB925Art · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I use this and perfectly works with BT on my Pixel XL. My Pixel XL's BT also has been flawless on my Honda CR-V and Toyota RAV4's stock stereo system.

u/Crocoduck_The_Great · 1 pointr/iphone

You may be interested in this then:

https://www.amazon.com/SoundBot-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Wireless-Streaming/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1473376902&sr=8-7&keywords=aux+bluetooth

Turns your AUX into Bluetooth, gives you media controls off your phone, and has a better mic for driving than the phone's built in mic. All for under $20. I've been using one in my car for a couple years because it is, in my opinion, a nicer experience than using AUX. It turns on when your car turns on and off when your car turns off.

u/clawesome · 2 pointsr/MINI

Yeah, digging into the dash of a MINI would be a major pain to do anything worth while. I like to keep mine as stock as possible.

Right now I don't have the iPad mounted anywhere, I've just been doing testing with the stock Y-Cable that came with my Countryman. The cable is like 12 inches, so can't really move the iPad anywhere at the moment, just been putting it on passenger seat while testing. I don't think I'm going to make any permanent mounting for it, since I'll hardly be using the iPad in the car, except for maybe the occasional road trip. If I had a smaller iOS device, I'd consider making a mount in the driver side sun visor. Would make it accessible and keep it hidden. I think the only smaller compatible device running iOS 7 would be an iPhone 4 or 4s.

On my r56 I had before my r60, I used this Kinivo Bluetooth receiver. Fairly inexpensive and worked well. It comes with adhesive and I mounted it behind my steering wheel so it was out of sight. It doesn't auto play, so you have to hit play every time you start the car which is pretty much the only thing I disliked about it.

u/YoderinLanc · 3 pointsr/lancaster

I just did this a couple months ago in my girlfriends car. She just bought a 2007 Honda Accord which did not have an input, so I installed one for her birthday. It's super easy. Note: The 2003 is the same setup as the 2007.

u/applevinegar · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Any headphone amp can do the job if you have one. Otherwise the Schiit sys has nice aesthetics: https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Audio-SCH-13-Passive-Preamp/dp/B00K6Q2A4C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474215582&sr=8-1&keywords=passive+volume+control but a passive volume control such as this will work: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1474215582&sr=8-3&keywords=passive+volume+control

Sound quality with monitors is going to be leaps and bounds better than the other two, even if they're close together.

u/mattgoldey · 1 pointr/lgg4

My '09 Scion tC doesn't have integrated Bluetooth, so I bought a Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit and it works great. And best of all, my tC's armrest has both power and the AUX input inside it, so it's completely hidden. The little control panel is discretely stuck on the side of the armrest.

u/NoMugshots · 2 pointsr/Lexus

I own a 1999 RX300 and it too only has a cassette slot. All i did was get a cassette AUX adapter, a female to female 3.5mm coupler, and a Bluetooth AUX adapter. Now I can play my music through my cassette via bluetooth.

I currently use: SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_07DHxbF1NFZDN

I honestly can not tell a difference between using the AUX directly compared to using bluetooth. Hope this helps.

u/jmanpc · 1 pointr/CarAV

I've been using this for a year or two and it's been great. It sounds good, too!

u/pdxiowa · 2 pointsr/MINI

You can get a bluetooth receiver with an aux cord - I'd recommend just getting one that will plug into an available USB so that you don't need to repeatedly charge it. Once your phone is paired, it will automatically pair with your phone every time you turn the car on.

Something like this Kinivo ($35) or this MPOW ($24) would fulfill that purpose.

u/scubascratch · 9 pointsr/iphone

Get yourself one of these car Bluetooth adaptors for $20, zero effort to connect disconnect. Turn car on, automatic connect. Turn car off, automatic disconnect. No mess, no fuss.

I used to be major frustrated with the previous car Bluetooth device I was using that required me to press buttons to connect disconnect, but now I'm super happy with the SB360.

u/nah_you_good · 1 pointr/BmwTech

I don't know anything about any of that, but in mine I just purchased a $15-30 bluetooth receiver that works extremely well. In the e90 in particular it's nice because you can leave it plugged into the arm rest socket.

The unit is really just the controller piece, which you can stick anywhere on your dash (I stuck next to the iDrive wheel).

I'm talking something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Receiver-Magnetic-Handsfree/dp/B0168GBMCY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493952251&sr=8-1&keywords=aukey+car+bluetooth

u/egamble · 1 pointr/audiophile

You got a great deal on that amp then.

Without a gain adjustment, I would be very cautious to do this. Even with something like the Fulla it would be easy to blow out your speakers if you turn the dial too high. You could use this to limit it https://www.amazon.com/PAC-LC-1-Remote-Amplifier-Controller/dp/B0002J226O but you need to be very careful.

Personally, I would sell that amp and pick up an SMSL SA-60. The amplifier you have is meant for a very different purpose than you are using it for and the chances of you blowing up your speakers is too high.

u/tendinosis · 2 pointsr/WranglerYJ

clinometer

Removed the radio and capped it with abs plastic, fit it with a usb charger and [four of these switches in different colors] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PU0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) using these housings

the switches got to [relays] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that are powered [by this fuse box] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that is mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box under the hood.

Those power my OBHS and OBA. Other two switches not in use yet, hoping for rock lights/light bar some day maybe?

Removed the old fog light switch panel, replaced with abs plastic and volume control that goes to an amp that goes to a stereo jack that i just plug into my phone for music.

u/-TheDoctor · 2 pointsr/mazda

I have this one in my 08 Mazda 3 i Sport and it turns on and off with the car. It works great, with good sound as far as bluetooth goes.

u/jasopen · 1 pointr/iphone

Just an FYI, the 30 pin to lightning adapter from Apple actually contains a Digital to Analog converter chip, as analog audio is not available on the lightning port. That's one reason why it seems overpriced.

What I did was actually get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004CLYJ2I/

The audio goes Bluetooth to the device and the to the aux port of the radio. The main benefit is that for short trips I can play a song or two without even taking the phone out of my pocket.

u/sageDieu · 1 pointr/Audi

I'm not personally familiar with the b8 series infotainment and what all it can control on the car, if it has a lot built in that isn't related specifically to the sound system then you likely won't be able to upgrade it. If it doesn't you can get replacements that support all of what you asked for. If it does a potentially easier option is to just get a bluetooth aux adapter:

https://smile.amazon.com/Mpow-Bluetooth-Receiver-Isolator-Hands-Free/dp/B078TD6D72/

and then there are lots of aftermarket less elegant but much cheaper backup camera options like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Pruveeo-D700-7-Inch-Channel-Reversing/dp/B073WFJ7HV/

u/purebishop · 1 pointr/techsupport

I have this one and it functions perfectly with my android devices. Based upon the description of yours (and the reviews), I'd expect it to also work with android devices. If yours doesn't, return it or work with Belkin support.

u/Steve192 · 1 pointr/gadgets

Im using this device (Kinivo BTC450) for half a year now and I'm pretty happy with it. It's not exactly what you're looking for since its not hidden. But it autoconnects to the last used phone and if it cannot establish a connection it will stay visible and available for pairing.

u/lumpyg · 1 pointr/audible

If you have a phone with the audible app and your car has an AUX input you can buy a blue tooth audio adapter like this one I bought. I've been ysing it for over two years and it's super sweet.

u/jimbolla · 2 pointsr/tech

I've had the Kinivo BTC450 for over 2 years and am pretty happy with it.

u/rcmaehl · 1 pointr/techsupport

I'd recommend something like this adapter (link) just to be safe

u/asindragon · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

I bought this to do volume control PAC LC-1 Remote Amplifier Level Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002J226O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Iy0ZBbXAAZ5JG I actually attached it to the back so my kids wouldn't mess with the volume but it's great i turned it to the max then adjusted the amp to a level I thought was the threshold of loudness.

u/Alimoose · 7 pointsr/Android

Highly recommend this bluetooth car kit by Kinivo. It plugs into your AUX jack and gives your car bluetooth capabilities. Bought it for one of my cars and it works great.

u/Tu13es · 1 pointr/MINI

I have one of these and have been really happy with it for a few years. The unit plugs into the aux jack and cigarette adapter, I plug a lightning cable into the USB port to charge my phone in to charge and audio goes over bluetooth. There are better/newer ones now (there's a good guide here).

u/neongasoline · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I absolutely love this one

it works pretty good and looks really nice in my car, small and unobtrusive

there sometimes it doesn't auto connect but you just have to click the button and it only takes a couple seconds to connect