Reddit mentions: The best car audio & video amplifier equalizers

Do not use a standard LOC for the new civic. The EX head unit has a hidden EQ thats non-djustable and greatly reduces bass output before the signal is output to the speakers. Grab an AudioControl LC2i and use that to tap into the FRONT speakers, as they have a higher bass signal than the rears. The LC2i has a bass correction function, allowowing you to bring the bass frequencies back in line with the rest of the spectrum. The unit is also a powered unit with its own power and ground, giving 7+ volts of signal output vs the 0.5v from a nornal LOC, which will result in a cleaner signal with less noise.

The radio removal is simple. On each side of the radio/center console, there is a trim piece that simple pops off. Start at the rear/bottom (near gear selector) and pop them up. From there, the climate control area pops straight out. Once that's out, you'll see two 8mm bolts underneath the radio which is holding the screen in. Remove them, then pop the screen off, its held on by two pressure clips on the top corners once you have removed the two previously mentioned 8mm bolts. You can then tap into the front left and right door speakers with some quick splices (as in don't cut the lines, just tap into them. You want to keep your front speakers working), and tie them into the LC2i. Tap into the cigarette lighter's power line right there in front for power to the LC2i, since it only received power when the cars switch is on and won't cause your battery to drain. You can either run your audio signal and power to the LC2i to the trunk using 9-wire (google it, its a sleaved line with 9 separate insulated wires in it), or mount the LC2i in the dash somewhere. Either way, ground the LC2i to a clean metal point once youve decided where to install it. From there, run your RCA cables from the LC2i's sub output (not "Main") to your amp. Adjust the AccuBass setting to bring bass back into the signal, then your amps gain to the loudness you like. You'll want to take your time on this part so you dont have muddy bass, or dirty boomy bass. Make it sound clean and tight first with the AccuBass adjustment first, then feel free to make the sub as loud as you like using the amp Gain. Also, the LC2i has its own remote sigbal output that you can send to your amps remote turn on, so youre not having to run an extra wire.

• AudioControl LC2i
  
• 2016 Civic EX/EX-T Touchscreen Radio removal
  
• "9 Wire"
  
  Hope this helps. Take your time, be careful when removing any panels, make it looks good. Don't use electrical tape.

I'm gonna make a nice write-up for the whole thing now, but to get your gears spinning, here's a quick run-down.

Took out my radio, and fabricated a little frame to mount the tablet behind. HDMI-out from tablet goes to this. That goes into an input on this equalizer. I have a panel-mount 3.5 input that goes into the other input on the EQ. I had a double-din radio, and the tablet and the EQ just perfectly fit in the hole it left. I wired a 4-port 12v car charger receptacle thing, and mounted it behind the dash. this plugs into that, and charges my tablet, and provides a charging USB-port. I'm gonna mount a USB port next to the EQ, there's a bit of space there that needs to be filled. hacked this to use for the power for the HDMI-converter box (Just soldered the connector from the box to the inverter.)

So, audio from tablet to HDMI-box. Hdmi-box audio to EQ. (HDMI video to 3 ports installed under my dash... in case I wanna hook a TV up to the truck? I don't fucking know... I just did it!!!) EQ to amp, amp to speakers. The tablet's charger is connected to a line in the truck that is only hot when the car's turned on, and the tablet is set to turn the screen on when charging, and disable everything (gps, screen, all apps, etc... [wifi after 30 minutes, in case I want to transfer files over my home network]) So... when the truck turns on, the tablet turns on, when the truck turns off, the screen, all radios, and all apps turn off. Should last at least a few days on standby.. if I don't run the truck for a week.. I dono.. i'll figure that out later.

Hope this wasn't too confusing... ask me if you wanna know anything else.

Oh, I learned how to do everything from the internet. I've never done any car stereo work before, or anything like this at all.

linkdump with all the shit I bookmarked while doing this project;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q8AMC2/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q6DLTK/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

http://forums.androidcentral.com/verizon-fascinate-rooting-roms-hacks/66762-tools-quick-links-please-read-post-1-before-posting-forum.html

http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread.php?t=1245048

http://www.mp3car.com/android-tablet/149167-nook-color-and-power-ignition-question.html

https://plus.google.com/photos/101742863087764134140/albums/5648721282113547713/5648721594511444978?banner=pwa

http://www.wpsantennas.com/WA-1061-Sprint-Overdrive-3G-4G-Mobile-Hotspot-Antenna-Adapter-Cable.aspx

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018SMVCS/ref=wms_ohs_product

http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20080920094216AAK0VAb

http://www.f150forum.com/f30/diy-video-2010-f150-amplifier-install-part-one-82376/

http://www.f150online.com/forums/amplifiers/300586-where-run-amp-power-wire-through-firewall.html

http://www.f150forum.com/f4/amp-wiring-55461/


For looks, you've gotta mount it in the dash, but mounting it isn't an unreasonable option. If you go the HDMI route, make sure your screen still rotates with hdmi plugged in... Had everything installed and ready, plugged in the HDMI cable... everything's upside down.. no way to fix it... gotta cut the dash apart even more now...

There arent any crucial pedals. Personally i dont care about tremolo or phaser pedals really and arent going to get them(also i can hook bias fx on ipad in amps fx loop and get any effects). Reverb i dont have much need for, because there is built in reverb in my amp and its pretty much what i look in for a reverb 99% of the times, it also has a sweet chorus, so no need for that either. And it gives all the distortion i need, which i can shape with rack eq, i might get some fuzz at some point, but dont really feel the need for that just now.

The point is that peoples need depend on what sound they want to get and on the current gear. But there are some pedals that people often like to have. Since you dont do any gigging, you could use rack effects, which have their upsides, and pretty much only downside is that there is no foot button to kick it on/off(some you can control with midi foot controller tho) and the size. For example, i got this for 90€ used https://www.amazon.com/DBX-1215-Dual-Graphic-Equalizer/dp/B0015IUSVW , which is pretty much the same price as some crappy eq pedals with not many channels, but this has 2 channels(can put one before amp to shape the overdriven sound and boost, and other channel in fx loop to shape the overall sound), so to do what this is capable(2xeq pedal), you would pay double for some shitty ones. I would highly suggest getting something like that, if you think eq pedal is for you. Also there are tons of reverb etc and multi fx rack effects around for cheap price, especially if you look for used. Some behringer stuff you could get for like 50-70 bucks used.

Tube screamer as someone mentioned is a nice pedal(i wouldnt say its a must have for metal tho), if you want a boost pedal that boosts mids bit more than bass or treble. But again you could do very similar boost with the rack eq i have(reason why i just sold my tube screamer).

It just all depends on what you want, there are no crucial must have pedals.

Depends on your needs and on each EQ. A 3 band parametric EQ is pretty much objectively better than a graphic EQ as long as the parametric isn't designed to only allow you choose useless frequencies. It all depends on what frequencies you need to change in your setup. One 7 band graphic EQ might suit your needs way better than another if the frequencies are different. However, a 31 band graphic EQ like this (this one isn't for a car) pretty much wins out for "best EQ". It has basically every frequency you'd ever need and you can fiddle with as many sliders as you want. Here is a purchasable 30 band car audio equalizer

http://www.amazon.com/ART-Dual-Band-Graphic-Equalizer/dp/B0002E50WM

Actually, a mixer with Bass/Mid/Treble knobs would be nice, plus you'd have a mixer to use for other things as well.

Or maybe a nice Tubescreamer for each of them. Just do a clean boost (LEVEL/VOL at max, OD/GAIN as low as you can go while still getting sound). It's only adding one Tone knob to shape the sound, but you'll get a nice boost on the signal to work with.

Hey, thanks for the advice. I was looking and noticed this was also in my budget range: SX210. This looks like it'd take a pair of preamp ins and give me two preamp outs high pass and low pass. Would this just be overcomplicating things? I'd rather go with something like what you linked if the difference is negligible and the setup is easier.

Thanks again!

I'm not totally sure I understand your question, but let's see if this helps clarify things.

The easiest way to send the audio signal from a Nexus 7 to that amp would be a mini jack to RCA cable back to the amp, then RCA splitters at the amp, and adjust your fade using the amp levels.

It looks like you might want control over fade/bal in the dashboard, in which case the device you linked to looks similar to this one, which I've had good results with in the past. One RCA in becomes 3 out with separate level adjustment and overall EQ.

I started with the Sync 2 system in my 2016 Explorer and noticed the clipping as well. It drove me crazy along with sync 2/MFT. I too had most of my climate involved with the HU and sought out possible solutions. I ended up installing a sync 3 system from a newer parted ford along with This. I also added a small sub, but would still have been possible without the sub. After install, absolutely 0 clipping! It changed everything and sounds fantastic for pretty much a stock setup!

You do not need an amp to connect to your speakers.

They will likely (most certainty?) add more volume. Same goes for sound clarity.

I'd suggest a sound processor run before the amp, as well. I run a Audio Control DQ-61 in my car with a 5 channel Alpine amp. 4 channels go to front / back, 1 for the sub. And it bumps.

A processor can include an EQ (equalizer), as well as a crossover. Massive improvement over a stock radio's controls. Bear in mind, I still use my stock radio. I simply connect the processor to the radio, bypass the radio's EQ / crossover, and control it all from my processor.


The sound processor will be the biggest improvement in your sound, hands down.

To complicate things I live in Alaska and Amazon is pretty much the only company that ships up here, and it looks like there isnt any helix dsps on prime. Most of the 3rd party sellers on amazon wont ship to AK :(

https://www.amazon.com/Maestro-ADS-DSR1-Digital-Signal-Processor/dp/B076CY59YX/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542585323&sr=8-1&keywords=dsp

Would something like that be worth $250 or is it overkill for my setup?

I test drove a Sonic and since the infotainment system is already pretty great I'm assuming you want to keep that.

Your car has 6.5" speakers all around, so the easiest thing to do is to skim this post and find something that fits your budget.

You'll need a line output converter (LOC) to get signal to the amp. If you're planning to run only the subwoofer off the amp i'd suggest this, and if you want to amp everything this.

You'll need to determine how much space you want to give up for the subwoofer first, then choose a sub and an amp to drive it.

if you want to amp the front speakers any 4-channel with 50-100+ watts per channel will work.

That is crazy over priced for a harness. This thing is what I am going to use when I upgrade my system and it does what the harness will do (after proper wiring) and it is also an EQ.
This is all they are going to use Stay clear of that place. The second link I posted for sonic electronix have really good prices and will give you good advice on what to get, even if it is not from them. I have bought all kinds of gear from them. Still need more to finish my project though. :)

Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!

Hey, thanks for the response! I got it working with realtek and the phono input on the receiver. However, you're right about the impedance. Are there any affordable amps that you'd recommend? I believe I have crossover control already figured out if what I ordered works (Car Home Subwoofer Equalizer Crossover Amplifier RCA Adjust Line Level Volume https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S66QNA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_19HczbWH5WV7M). So I'm thinking about getting either a 2x50 watt sure amp board with a power supply. What kind of amps did you get?

You just realize one day that this is all going to be insanely expensive and there is going to be almost no one that gets why you do it. Now i just close my eyes. Spend the money. Shed the blood. Enjoy the bass.

I have found that the further you get from fancy interfaces and "all in one" solutions that are "drop in" and "oem ready" the closer you get to the real joy of car audio.

But that is just me... what do i know.

I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

So this is how i have mine set up.

iPad mini 3 128g>Lightning Digital AV adapter>HDMI cable>HDMI to Optical Converter>12V to 5V converter>Optical Cable>Alpine PXA-H800/RUX-C800>Alpine PDX-V9>Alpine SPR-60c>JL HO W6v3 Wedge

I have the hdmi converter plug cut and soldered to the stepdown voltage converter which is soldered to the back of the 12V Cigarette lighter all heat shrinked wrapped. The HDMI cable is extra long so i can have the iPad to the passenger seat comfortably. I did have a lightning cable extender that worked for a while but it suddenly stated that this cable can no longer be used for this device so i had to bring the AV adapter outside of the dash so it looks a little weird....but what are you gonna do.
As long as it sounds good i dont really care.
The RUX-C800 remote for the H800 is installed below my console near the gearshift in my Honda Civic 2009.

The installation took a bit of time since i couldnt leave everything undone because i had to drive it but i saved a whole lot of money.

At the moment i just have a magnetic holder stuck in my cd player slot to hold the ipad. I will be getting a prefab console ipad installation kit when i have the time to do so.

I was also able to leave my back speakers connected to the stock radio if i would like to listen to the radio for sports talk.

this little guy for $14 shipped is passive, line level, and has adjustable cutoff. If it does what it's supposed to, it seems perfect. The reviews on this other listing make it sound like maybe it doesn't really filter correctly. Or maybe it's just first order (6db/octave) which doesn't cut as much of the highs as people tend to think. Anyway I'd love to know if it works, if you want to try it ;)

Otherwise, I second AzusMobo's recommendation to pick a cutoff frequency and buy FMOD inline rca filters.

Lastly, if you know your amps input impedance, you can make your own line level filters, which should be cheaper; but I don't know how common it is to know that specification. (In fact, I'm not sure how the FMOD ones are getting around that issue. Maybe all modern amps are similar enough in that regard?)

My car had a storage compartment right under the radio that I didn't ever use so I took it out, and once I did that this new radio fit in just fine.

They make radios like this as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Single-DIN-Multimedia-DVD-Receiver/dp/B00D0RVFPY/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376784451&sr=1-3&keywords=Pioneer+AppRadio+single+din

Basically the screen on it slides out and flips up

Other options:

• Many computers have multichannel output. They may already have an output port specifically designated as a line-level output to go to a subwoofer! For example, on my motherboard, there's an orange connector called "CS-Out", which stands for "center/sub output". Maybe it's just a matter of plugging the sub into the sub output (with an appropriate cable)? And setting up the software properly, which isn't necessarily trivial.
  
• Get an electronic crossover. There's the MiniDSP approach. Or get a traditional one, like this one (which is meant for car audio, so it'd be a bit of a hack and would require a 12V power supply).
  
• (Ab)use a headphone distribution amp like this $25 behringer to drive both inputs.

That's a good idea, something like this might help filters from 40-150hz if not this specific one something along the lines of it

This little beauty. It’s more expensive than other line out converters, but totally worth it.

I set up a sub in my ST1 not long after getting it, it makes a big difference! There are 3 things you'll need:

• The Sub: Pretty self explanatory.
  
• The Amp: A sub is a big speaker and will need more power than a normal one, you'll need an amp.
  
• An AudioControl LC2i: Our cars dont have an output for an amp,
  the LC2i will give you the output you need. the way i did it was tapping the LC2i into the rear speaker wires and then plugging the amp into the LC2i.
  
  That all being said, id reccomend going to your local car audio shop and asking them for a reccomended, entery level sub and amp combo. if you want to do all the wiring yourself you'll need:
  
  
• 4 AUG wire, ~20 feet for positive, ~4 feet for negative.
  
• lots of speaker wire, maybe 25 - 50 feet, it never hurts to have extra.
  
• Wire ends.
  
• RCA connector audio cables, to connect the amp to the LC2i.
  
  Thats more or less my experience, its a bit of work but not bad.
  
  
  

Sure, you just need a line out converter. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AAQGybXNRFXF9

I have read about something like this. Would that allow me to add the subwoofer to my setup without a receiver or is the receiver the only option?

this would be better for the money . i would spend more and the lc2i

That's the direction we're going. You'll be missing:

• AM / FM / HD / Sat radio (no big loss, replaced by Pandora and streaming internet radio)
  
• CD / tape player (who cares)
  
• Balance (I keep it centered anyways)
  
• Fade (I push towards the front, this can be accomplished by adjusting amplifier gains for front/rear)
  
• Volume - I like having a volume knob
  
• EQ - You'll lose out on the ability to fine-tune the output for your car.
  
• Separate subwoofer volume - I adjust this now and then. Can sometimes be replaced by a remote knob to the sub amp.
  
• Display - My phone auto-locks, display dims after inactivity, and it's hard to read in direct sunlight.
  
  So most of what you're missing out on is sound processing. Get an equalizer and a good dash mount for your phone and you're golden. I think you're on the right track and this is the future of car audio.

I run a 4 channel amp so I can use the front two channels for two component style door speakers and then bridge the back two channels together for running one sub. equalizer

amplifier

I think you could probably spend 150 bucks and be set up pretty nicely. It won’t be competition sound, but you’d be jamming

what about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Home-Subwoofer-Equalizer-Crossover-Amplifier/dp/B00S66QNA6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474406648&sr=8-1&keywords=sub+woofer+crossover

If I add the sub from the speaker out (limited amp outputs), will this go before the speaker or before the sub?

>JL 500/1

That amp accepts 8V max speaker level. Pretty friggin low, even without a factory subwoofer amp output. An $89 Pioneer head unit can output more than that. I'm not kidding.

Use an LC2i

For $500 I would go:

Morel $150

Phoenix Gold $130

Amp Kit $40

Fastrings $25

CLD $25

Audio Control $87

Total- $457

Dream car or not everything can go to next install except cld and Fastrings.

I'm going to use these items to feed my powered sub:

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-MX51S-Mini-Mix-Mixer/dp/B0002BG2S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465604364&sr=8-1&keywords=4+channel+mixer+rca

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S66QNA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i'm not super worried about distortion from low quality components if i keep the line level low and the subwoofer gain high. noise will be negligible because the sub can't reproduce hiss anyway. i also use acoustic suspension speakers and have fairly flat bass response already, i am mostly interested in this for frequencies below 40hz.

Check this out, it should help fix your issue.
https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-DM-810-Channel-Digital-Processor/dp/B01EDIWWAK/

I couldn't find any subs like that. Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Home-Subwoofer-Equalizer-Crossover-Amplifier/dp/B00S66QNA6

Maybe something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00069R0LM

Or there are fancier ones like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076GZS6NB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vP6RDb6QGDR34

The sub goes under the rear seat. I am not going to install it myself although I could. They installation is a bit tricky because I have sync 3 in my system and I want to keep it. I also purchased a JL Fix86 to make sure I can add amps to it. If you have the Sony speaker system you may not have to do this.

JL Audio FiX-86 OEM Integration Digital Sound Processor w/ Automatic Time Correction and Digital Equalizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7P7IK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_n-d4BbS591C09

So something like this but for home use?

what you want is an equalizer, but i can't tell you which one specifically because i'm still a bit fuzzy on how your stereo is hooked up
but look at this for example
https://www.amazon.com/S4EQ-Pre-Amp-Equalizer-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B000O50VEQ

Not talking about the MiniDSP. Talking about any of the many variations of an active crossover. Go to a local car audio shop and pick one up for cheap.

Thinking about this...

amp

DSO

speakers

Speakers

What do you think?

Would this filter suit the purpose of the circuit?

Clarion EQS746 1/2 DIN Graphic Equalizer with Built-in Crossover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EZV3T8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t5Nxzb47ANXQB

Receiver

DAC

Both for $100.

ssl equalizer and pre amp

It’s not the best quality so half a years use out of it might explain the issue, but it’s the right size and has the features I want

That's where it gets tricky. You'll need to connect your stock HU to a line out converter (LOC). The LOC will need 2 things connected to it: speaker wire inputs for a signal + remote turn on signal. using these the LOC can connect to the monoblock via RCA's (low level inputs). You'll need to look at a particular guide on youtube or in a mazda forum (or from someone here) to find out the most stress free way of getting the speaker level inputs and remote signal wire from the stock HU.

RCA's should be provided in that amp install package. The only extra thing you need to get is a LOC. If that one is too pricey, Crutchfield sells some cheaper models - the Rockford model seems reliable.

>PAC lP7-2

Also, I read on the max forum people were saying this LOC made a huge difference over a lower quality one..

​

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=LOC&qid=1563194668&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

Not sure how accurate that is but it's a lot more expensive ($80 vs $20)..

You only have a 90 amp alternator, so figure 5-600 watts to play with.

2x Dayton subs

Box

Soundstream mono amp

No external LOC required, one is built into the amp.... but you might splurge on a AudioControl lc2i in case ford is still screwing with bass roll off frequencies.


Or, give Mike Singer a call about upgrading your alternator and start from there.