I have always wanted to have a "smart" radio. My parents have always owned various Pioneer, Kenwood, and Sony radio decks, but they always had their cons to them (clunky OS, different type of touch screens that suck, lack of features, very expensive $800-$2000), useless features, etc.). I wanted something that runs Android 6.0+. I thought about using iPads, but I didn't want to waste a bunch of money for something that is going to be used in my car only. I wanted a budget friendly "smart" radio. That is when I found the perfect tablet, the Nexus 7 2013. Cheap, powerful, Android 6, compact, somewhat thin and small, and best part, it fits in a double-din radio deck.

After finding various projects that people have used, I decided to order a bunch of stuff from Amazon (everything was bought with Prime) and see if I could get this to work. It took about 3 weeks to work out all the bugs, but it runs perfect now. I never found anyone that did this mod in a Nissan Pathfinder, so that was difficult going on my own, reading various wiring diagrams and getting power, sound and steering wheel controls to work. After lots of testing each wire, and lots of trial and errors, everything is working how I want it too.

Questions that people have asked me that I can remember on the top of my head:

Q: How do you turn the tablet on and off if the power button is blocked?

A: Easy, with Timur's Kernel, and the USB car charger hooked up to the accessory power, when I turn my key on/start my car, the tablet detects power from the USB, which wakes the screen/powers on. (ELI5: there are 2 power sources in your radio, a constant 12 volt power, and an accessory key power. So when you turn the key to ACC or ON, it gives power to the tablet, but when you turn the key off, it takes away power from the USB port.)

Q: How does it hold up in the wonderful California heat?

A: Shockingly very well. It hasn't given me any issues in ~95F (+35C) degree weather. There was a day where it was 115F (46C) degrees outside, and that is when the tablet finally said NOPE and started locking up and freezing due to the ridiculous heat. After running my AC for a few minutes, it cooled the tablet down to reasonable temperature and ran normally again. When my car is parked, I have a windshield sun shade that helps a ton with keeping the sun off my black/gray dash, and/or microfiber towels over the screen to keep the sun off. If it's super hot, I just take the tablet/radio/air conditioner part out of my car and bring it inside (not that hard to remove).

Q: How do you control the volume?

A: With the JoyCon EXC, it translates either CAN, IBUS, resistive, or digital steering wheel control signals, to USB keyboard signals that the tablet can see. I have the Joycon setup to have Volume UP/DOWN, Screen ON/OFF, PAUSE/PLAY, and PREVIOUS/NEXT. Click here for more information.

Q: How do you listen to the radio/music?

A: Spotify Premium. While I can spend ~$10 on a radio antenna to USB to listen to over-the-air radio stations, I never listen to the radio. When I had my old stock radio, I never listened to the radio part. I always used my 3.5mm jack to plug in my phone for Spotify. Great perk about being a broke college student is getting 50% off Spotify Premium.

Q: Can you/do you watch TV or movies on it while you drive?

A: I can, but I don't. Pay attention to the freakin' road.

Q: How do you get internet on it since it's a WiFi version?

A: I use my Bluetooth hotspot on my phone to get internet for Waze, Google Maps, etc. I can also use the WiFi hotspot, but that uses more power. I can drive from California to Idaho running Waze the whole way and it uses about ~300MB of data.

Q: Can you make phone calls with it?

A: This has been something I have been trying, but have not had success with yet. I use an app called [TabletTalk] (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.apdroid.tabtalk&hl=en), but it doesn't push the microphone/sound through the tablet. I gave up on this since I have a Samsung Gear 2 Neo smartwatch that has a microphone/speaker on it. Some day I will explore with this more.

Q: How do you power your speakers if you removed the radio?

A: I lucked out big time with this issue because my Nissan Pathfinder has the Bose System built in. That means that there's an amplifier already installed that powers the speakers. So the tablet sends the sound to the Behringer UCA202 DAC, that then converts to a 3.5mm headphone jack that then splits into the Left Front/Rear, Right Front/Rear, and dual subwoofer channels that go to the car wiring harness that then goes to the amp. This saves me hundreds of dollars. For vehicles without a stock amplifier that rely on the radio for power, that is when you will need to buy an amplifier to power the speakers. My 12 inch subwoofer also plugs into the DAC and works perfectly.

Q: I see the reverse camera, how did you get that to work with the tablet? How does the tablet know when you are in reverse?

A: There were 2 ways to get this to work, one way is by video detection, or the other way is by the JoyCon EXC. I chose to do the video detection way because it was simpler and waiting about one second for the app to open was fine with me. I use an app called EasyCap viewer.

Q: Why is there paper over the JoyCon, EasyCap, USB charger etc.?

A: The plastic pieces over the EasyCap and USB charger were bulky/broken. The JoyCon didn't come with a cover. Paper was the easiest/closest thing I had at the moment. If only I had a 3D printer. Someday..

Q: Why is the mic in the vent and not somewhere else? Doesn't the wind from the HVAC cause problems?

A: It was a last-second add-on and just put it in there without having to rewire the harness. I also didn't know where to move it that made it look "stock". I've gotten some great opinions on where to move it! Thanks for those!

I'll add more common questions here when I think of them.

Breakdown of Parts:

Price | Part
---|---
$100 | Nexus 7 2013 32GB WiFi (flo) (bought from /r/hardwareswap)
$5 | Nissan Radio Wiring Harness
$6 | AmazonBasics 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub
$20 | Esky EC135-05 Rearview Camera
$95 | JoyCon EXC
$7 | Tendak OTG USB cable
$30 | Behringer UCA202
$7 | VideoSecu Amplified CCTV Microphone
$25 | Timur's Kernel v4.0 for Nexus 7 2013
$10 | Maxboost Car Charger
Free/Other/Already owned | EasyCap USB Video Capture Card, RCA cables, 3.5mm audio cables, USB cables, 12-16 AWG wire, grinder, zipties, paper, hotglue, other random stuff.
TOTAL COST | ~$305

TL;DR: Modified my Android tablet to work as a replacement for my radio. Worth it? YES. Best Radio Ever.

Have Questions? Ask away. Since I had to learn most this crap on my own, I can share my experience with others and give pointers in the right direction.

EDIT #1: Formatting.

EDIT #2: RIP my inbox. I would never have guessed this would get this popular. I'm just speechless. Wow. Thanks everyone! Trying my best to reply to everyone! Also added another question to this.

That alternator is almost certainly an 80amp, which is good for something like 800 watts RMS (1100watts minus whatever your car uses). I have a car, same make, similar year.. I've got 2 12s and the front components are amped, something like 1000 watts RMS, the lights dim when I bump it hard but it's enough to rattle the trunk, vibrate the rear-view mirror and host a smallish beach party (50 people maybe?)

If you want to go full on SPL you'll need at least $500 for a new alternator... but with what you have, you could focus on sound quality, have something that sounds great and still gets loud enough to blow your eardrums out without breaking the bank

What I did:

Hand-me-down amps and subs. I'm running probably 400 watts RMS or so on the 2 subs.. yeah, really low, but you can really feel it and it shakes the hell out of the trunk. I have hearing damage from a previous system so not-insanely-loud works well for me

Per the recommendation of this sub, I skipped out on rear speakers and spent the budget on the fronts and sound deadening. This is the way to go. I bought the Morel Maximos... after reading a ton they seem like the best sounding speaker you can get under $300... and they only cost $150 for the pair. Look at the recommendations on the wiki for a good budget amp to power them. I've got ~100watts RMS to them, and they get fucking loud (and clear!)

Spend some money on sound deadening.. you'll need it. Road noise brings the signal-to-noise ratio way down, making it harder to hear your music, harder to hear details, and harder on your ears. I bought the Noico 80 mil on Amazon, $60 was enough to do both front door panels and probably will be enough for the rear too. This video gets posted a lot and will give you an idea of what you need to do. I didn't go as far as he did, but followed the concepts and it made a massive difference. Eventually I'd like to add some MLV for more sound-proofing

I come from a pro audio / studio engineering background as well.. you know the saying, spend 1/2 the budget on room treatment, that's probably about right in the car world too.

So for final budget:

$150 for Morel Maximo you'll appreciate this thread, it's an audio engineer's review of the Maximo vs several other components, this is what sold me and I love mine

$60 for Noico 80 mil sound deadener

$?? for MLV.. maybe $100?

$?? - Look on the wiki for a budget 5 channel amp... I'm running 2 amps, takes more connectors, more wire, more cost, but I already had the 2 amps. There seems to be some great amps out there now that are budget friendly, but I'm not familiar with them. Consult the wiki. You could run the components off the head unit but it wouldn't be much more to amplify them properly and it'll make a massive difference in output quality

$30 - Depending on the length of your cable run and your power requirements, you'll probably need a 4 gauge wire kit (do calculate this before buying), get the one from KnuKonceptz they're a great bang-for-buck and the cheapest wire that's actually rated for what it is. (for instance, Boss wire is thick but it's all insulation and not copper)

And for bonus, get a DSP so you can flatten out the EQ in your car.. cars are a lot harder to EQ than rooms because they have so many different nodes. Dayton is about to release theirs for $150, and if you have a calibration mic you're set, if not NADY's CM-100 is a $60 calibration mic and you'll take the car to the next level. You could keep it and re-tune on your next car. My car sounds lovely without DSP but I plan on adding it when I get some more funds... this is easy to upgrade and add later on, just pop it in the signal chain

And one last pro tip: Run your RCAs away from all power sources so you don't pick up that annoying alternator whine. I ran mine through the center of the car, but you should be able to run it on one side of the car and the amp wires on the other

Hope this helps. I'm just a musician/engineer who knows a little bit about car audio, been dipping my feet in a bit more lately, but by far an expert. There's a lot of professional car audio guys around here that can help out more if you have any more questions

</wall>

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

I have a 2012 accord, and the 08-12 have the same body style, so I know what you need and some potential problems you might run into.

You should replace the radio because it'll make a dramatic difference in the sound quality, same with adding an amp. Also, if you want to put quality speakers in, you'll need an amp or you'll risk blowing your speakers.

Problems you'll run into:

• With a new head unit, you'll lose the function of the screen on top, but I think it's a good trade off for the sound quality
  
  
• You can't have speakers in the front doors that are too deep because it'll hit the window, but there are good shallow mount speakers to put there.
  
  
• The back deck WILL rattle, even you you put a good amount of deadener on it, deadener will still help a good amount though. To solve this problem, deaden it, put weather stripping along the back of the deck where it meets the window (I doubled it up where the brake light is back there), and I drilled two small holes from inside the trunk and zip-tied it down around the metal frame under the deck. This worked great for me and I have two 13" subs in a ported box. If you're looking for one 10", it'll definitely work. It might look a little janky, but that's the only way for it to not rattle.
  
  
• To have someone install everything, run the wires, and deaden what you need deadened (which is, at minimum, the front doors and front door panels, rear deck, trunk, trunk lid, and probably the the pillars in the back), you're probably looking at around $300-$600 for about 4-6 hours of work, depending on where you take it to. And some charge more for installing if you didn't buy the parts from them.
  
  In your other post on /r/CarAV, you said you have a couple grand to spend, so I'm going to put a complete SQ system together that you'll be able to keep for a long time and move from car to car.
  
  
• KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit - $50 (they have a cheaper 4 gauge amp kit, but it doesn't have a big enough fuse on it)
  
  
• 100' KnuKonceptz speaker wire - $20
  
  
• RCA cables (need 2 more pairs) - $10 x 2
  
  
• Dash kit - $50
  
  
• Wiring harness - $12
  
• Antenna adapter - $10
  
  
• Steering wheel control interface - $80
  
  
• Kenwood excelon headunit - $260
  
  
• 6.5" Focal component speakers for the front - $250
  
  
• 6.5" JL coax speakers for the back deck - $140
  
  
• Baffles for the speakers on back deck - $8 (you need these if you want to hear these speakers because of noise cancelation from the sub)
  
  
• 10" pioneer sub - $300
  
  
• Crappy pre-fab sub box - $60
  
  
• Custom box for your car - $120 + $15 if you want a grill (They will build it to the specs of the sub, which is 1 cu.ft. sealed if you go with the pioneer)
  
  
• Kenwood excelon 5 channel amp - $500
  
  
• 25ft^2 of sound deadener - $55
  
  
• $1815-1890 + $300-$600 installation + your tax rate
  
  You probably can find some of this stuff cheaper on amazon, but they're not a registered dealer so you're SOL if something goes bad.
  
  I'd go in to the store, get two quotes, 1) just to install all of this stuff you bought online and 2) what it would cost to buy everything from them with installation and see which is cheaper. The cost for dealers on door speakers and subwoofers is literally half of what they sell for, not head units though, they have very little mark up. Chances are the store might end up being cheaper if you tell them exactly what you're looking at online and how much you're planning to spend on it. Win-Win for you and the dealer, he get's business and you get a better price and similar quality products if they can compete with the online prices. Plus you'd be supporting a local business, unless you were planning on going to best buy, car toys, or something like that (don't do that, go to a local place). And if you buy all this stuff from a dealer and have it installed there, if anything goes wrong you can take it back and have them deal with it.
  
  
  
  
  
  

I have an extremely similar setup in my 1999 Ski Nautique, minus the tower. I would have loved help picking out equipment/installing, but didn't have any available, so had to learn as I went.

Head Unit - I basically got the older version of this. Make sure what you get has 6 pre-outs Head Unit $120

Amp - Go with a 5 channel amp to save space, I bought this one Polk 5 Channel $280

Speakers - 2 sets of these, which sound incredibly clear Polk 6.5 $250

Sub - I put together a sub from components. You will need sub, box, and grill. I'll link the sub I got but don't remember the box or grill. Went with 10 inch to save space, but it sounds great and is clear/sloud. Sub Around $120

Speaker Wire - Went with 14 guage, not sure what others would recommend here Wire $25

Amp Kit - Not sure what difference is between grades with these Kit $33

Basically, I had about the same budget, and it came to about $800-$900, I think prices have changed a bit since then.
I really went with clarity over loudness because I can't stand turning up the radio and hearing distortion, but this setup is both clear and very loud. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.

To add tower speakers later you will probably need another amp, and maybe an alternator, not totally sure on that, if someone else has more advice.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hope this helps. Good luck!

I recently did the upgrade myself on with 2014 Sonata GLS without nav. parts used:

• Kenwood DMX905S
  
• Scosche HY1625b dash kit
  
• iDatalink Maestro RR
  
• Factory replacement harness for Maestro RR
  
• Crimp cap Nylon connector
  
  the install was sort of straight forward. connecting the wires from replacement T harness to the Kenwood main cable may seem intimidating, but if you follow the diagram supplied by iDatalink, it will not be difficult. Maestro RR unit is very convenient and it lets me assign a single tap and hold (two functions) for each of the steering wheel buttons. one my biggest worry about losing the factory backup camera and its dynamic parking guideline when the car is in reverse. I am happy to report, the factory backup camera works, and the dynamic parking guide line shows up just fine when I am reversing the car with the Kenwood. removing the factory dash panel was not hard if you use the panel tools. the Scosche is of high quality and matches the factory dash overall, but some of the fitment was not correct. when swapping out the parts from the factory panel to Scosche panel, don't put on those green clips just yet. because for me it took a while to find a good fitment between the head unit and the panel, so I had to take off the panel, change the depth or angle of the head unit, and put the panel back on to see if the fit is good. once you are happy with the fitment, put on those green clips on the panel, and set the panel into the dash for good. I set up the microphone at the base of the steering wheel and the GPS antenna on the right side at the edge of the windshield. I channeled the dual USB cable between the two panels near the factory power, USB and audio inputs.
  
  I'm very impressed with the Kenwood unit. I have upgraded it to the latest firmware. then connected my phone (Galaxy S8) with the USB cable and started android auto. next time, I started my car, android auto started right away wirelessly. the screen is low res, but it is not noticeable for me. the sound quality is the biggest strength. the sound is very rich and clear. I have already swapped all four door speakers with Rockford speakers , and the two dash speaker with these. they are not a good fit at the factory slot, I have used bass blocker with the dash speaker. I have also added a Pioneer powered subwoofer in the trunk. using this wire kit.
  
  pic

Car Audio Fabrication and sonicelectronix have great how to car audio videos. But I won't bull shit you, a 4ch amp install is a lot of work.

I'll do my best to explain what's involved though and I'm gonna use some pictures to try and better get my point across because sometimes I don't even understand what im typeing.

So if you have a non factory amplified set up it will look something like this. The radio will have a plug in it that has a pair of wires for each speaker, a positive and a negative. A factory amplified system will look something like this. The set of speaker wires running out of the factory radio will run into the factory amp and then on out to each speaker. An aftermarket amp can be installed in both situations but the install will differ slightly.

One of the first things you'll need is an amp hook up kit. It has the power wire, fuse holder, ground wire, and a set of RCAs you can use to set up your amp. If you plan on adding a second amp for a sub at a later point you may want to consider buying a bigger power wire (smaller number = bigger) and run it back to a distrabution block so you won't have to do a second run later. You'll run the power wire with a fuse on it from the positive terminal of your battery through your firewall back to where you'll place your amp. Sometimes you'll be able to find a existing grommet to run the wire through and other times you may have to drill your own hole. For the ground you'll find a nice solid chunk of the car to clean the paint off and then using a bolt or screws attach the ground wire to the car.

Next thing to consider will be how to get a signal form your factory radio into your aftermarket amp. Aftermarket radios use RCA outputs but factory radio don't have them. So you'll need a line output converter (LOC). They come in all kinds of flavor from basic that will just drop the speaker level signal to something the amp wants to see to advanced that will give you some added control over your audio signal. What you'll do is cut the speaker outputs from your radio and run them into the corresponding inputs on the LOC. This can get tricky because the factory colors for the speaker wires are not standard to aftermarket color codes. You'll have to do some homework to find out what colors are what wires for your factory radio. While you're behind the radio you'll also grab the switch to 12 V signal that turns on your factory radio to run to the turn on of the aftermarket amplifier so it only turns on when your key is on and it shuts off when you shut the car off.

Once you've got those connections made you'll use RCA cables to run the signal from the LOC back to the amp. Now that you've got a signal into the amp you've got to get the speakers hooked up to the amp. The easiest way to do that is with Multi conductor / speedwire bundle hooked up to the amp outputs and run back up to behind the factory radio to reattach to the wires that were cut that run out to the speakers. All done it will look something like this. The major difference in the situation that you have a factory amp will be that that instead of connecting the speed wire from the amp outputs to the wires you cut coming out of the factory radio you will go to the wires coming out of the factory amp, like this.

Once the connections have been made it's time to set the gain on the amp so that you only provide clean power to the speakers. Sonic has a good series of videos on the many methods to set gains. There is also a guide in the sidebar.

Damn that's a wall of text but hopefully it gives you an idea of what's involved. If you don't feel up to it just call around or head in to some local shops and get some quotes for what the labor and parts costs will be and go with the shop you'd feel comfortable with working on your car.

If you want it to be easy as possible, you can use one of these (and you'll need to pick up a maestro sw or rr):

https://www.amazon.com/AutoHarnessHouse-Aftermarket-Installation-compatible-2016-2019/dp/B07GD8627K/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=autoharnesshouse+brz&qid=1573219865&sr=8-1

​

That covers the steering wheel controls and camera, antenna amp, and factory amp. You'll need to add a pin and wire on the harness (it's included) to power up the factory amp and door speakers. Also, ignore the instructions included on the two 5-pin connectors - just connect the two on the harness together if it's not shipped as such. If you want to try to keep costs down and make your own, you'll need to wire in a voltage converter for the camera power feed.

You'll also need the standard Toyota harness for the rest of the speakers. You can use one of AutoHarnessHouse direct connect Pioneer ones, or just make your own a little cheaper. I believe this is the part, but please double check - I don't have the part number handy right now (You can actually get these at Best Buy, it's in their computer system):
https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=344R0OVLJ7ACT&keywords=metra+toyota+harness&qid=1573220037&sprefix=metra+toyo%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-1

​

For the 4500, I also recommend either wiring up their GPS antenna, or just using an adapter for the OEM one (I went this route just to keep things clean). This pack contains the correct adapter (it's the one with the bright green end, maybe you can find it standalone cheaper):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K03PORU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

If you don't hook up the GPS antenna, the head unit will throw up an error message every time you start up a navigation app in AndroidAuto (it'll still work, it's just annoying).

Lastly, don't forget an antenna adapter and (optionally the OEM USB port adapter cable). I opted not to use the USB port since I have a high speed charger that uses a 12v socket. Same as above, please double check this to make sure it is the right one, but here's what the antenna adapter looks like:

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-LX11-Antenna-Adaptor-Select/dp/B00JYHSDKO/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp?keywords=toyota+antenna+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00JYHSDKO&pd_rd_r=aae8b955-0220-497c-bcd6-480183748bd8&pd_rd_w=bmQ4P&pd_rd_wg=7ZU9O&pf_rd_p=a6d018ad-f20b-46c9-8920-433972c7d9b7&pf_rd_r=F20PSH58JCQN60PP1T5G&qid=1573220626

You'll need to wire in the blue wire to power the antenna amp. Don't hook it up to a constant 12v feed (yello), either use a switched feed, or wire it to the matching blue feed on the back of the harness (it's the one that feeds out of the two pins jumped together by a blue wire).

​

Sorry I can't be 100% on the last couple of adapters - if you have trouble confirming feel free to DM me and I will be happy to check when I get home from work, I kept the packaging for later reference, and again, Best Buy does have these in their computer, so even if your local one doesn't carry them, they should at least be able to give you the part number.

Noob indeed, but great to illustrate how to approach signal chain issues.

Always start with the signal source device and media. Most modern devices are capable of reading and outputting a variety of audio formats. If you have stereo speakers, that is the output setting you want in your player's settings. You now need to know which physical connections output that stereo signal. It is possible for that output to be RCA usually red and white and/or 3.5mm audio out. The 3.5 mm might say line out or headphone out. Headphone out is probably (always?) amplified and adjustable using the volume on the source. Line out is not amplified and adjustable only post-output (almost always. I had a Peavey powered mixer that broke this rule).

So now you have speakers or headphones you want to connect. If speakers, are they self-powered? If so, do they have connectors matching your outputs? If so, use the appropriate male-to male patch cable. If not, can you use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable? Or 3.5mm to RCA adapter? Chances are good for one of these. But if audio is HDMI only, use something like the device linked earlier to create it.

Now have a listen. If it sounds good, you're golden. If not, does it sound like your content is being obscured by white noise? If so, you need a ground loop device. I bought one on Amazon recently for about $10. I will try to find a link. It is also possible if the output is headphone/amplified, to need an attenuator.

Lastly, when getting help on connection issues, it always cannot hurt to include all devices you want in your signal chain including source, output and processing devices.

Edit: link to ground loop device... Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Specs:

• 2012 Audi Q5 with B&O sound system
  
• Prefab box, ~39Hz
  
• 2x Sundown Audio EV-5 (dual 4 ohm)
  
• Sundown Audio SAE-600D Monoblock 600W RMS
  
• Accubas LC2i LOC
  
• KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit
  
  The LOC in use has a feature where it can counter bass frequencies being lowered when the stock head unit starts lowering the bass output at high HU volumes to protect the stock speakers. It turns out this Audi didn't need that feature (bass didn't drop even at max volume).
  
  The box is what it is (quality wise it is actually OK), it's tuned a little high for my taste. Unfortunately with limited tools and no shop/space I decided to go with the prefab box. It cheap but gets the job done.
  
  How does it sound? It sounds really good, gets really loud after I set the gains "properly". One interesting note however is that the Accubass gain needs to be set to 95% of max in order for the "Maximize" LED to come on, when the HU is at full tilt. I'm tapping into the stock subwoofer amp output for the line in to the LOC, I might get better results by tapping into the front speakers but then I'd have to run cables from the HU all the way back, I'd rather not do that.
  
  I need to do some sweeps and check what the frequency response looks like. All in all it blends in quite well with the system, I'm really happy with it.
  
  Total cost for the install with shipping of parts was around $630. (it took ~2 days to install)

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462994649&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+r250

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.

Not sure what you decided to go with but IMO if you get a sub in your trunk then your speakers will sound like they're better. Many people on this subreddit will bash this recommendation but I'll give it anyway.

$150 prebuilt subwoofer box

$55 amplifier

$15 wiring kit

$9 optional converter

The converter is needed if your radio is stock. I also think it makes the install easier regardless as it is one set less wire to run & you won't have to take apart your headunit.

I think this is the best intro level set up for a subwoofer if you're looking to spend about $220.
It will definitely impress you if you haven't heard/had bass in a car before. Also very easy to set up and you can do it in about 3 hours with no experience.

Edit: forgot this amp comes with a built in high/low converter to feed straight off the speakers. Converter may be easier but is optional.

That mixer was actually the first mixer I bought, too. It started my long, expensive journey into audio hardware specifically for 2 PC streaming setups. I tried many mixers, got frustrated and tried to downscale to just an interface, got frustrated with that and tried Voicemeeter but hated that.

If you're budget is around 200-400$ for the mixer, you can go with a ZED 10 FX. This was a popular mixer, with streamers like Lirik and Waffle using it. Waffle might even still use it. It has the ability to essentially produce 2 output mixes using a technique called mix minus. The mixer as a master mix output and an AUX/FX output. The mixer also has the ability to send inputs to master output or FX output or both - this is what enables this mixer to do the mix minus technique. You're basically abusing the FX output.

Going the mixer route like above will result in needing a lot of cables, "buzz boxes", etc. The ZED is also pretty big and takes up a lot of desk space. It gets messy, but it's all true-analog if that's your goal.

If you don't care about hearing the audio from your stream PC, you can easily just buy a line splitter and split your mic line - one to gaming PC the other to streaming PC. But, I imagine you want to hear the audio from your stream PC, too. You could just use a standard 3.5mm cable from stream PC back to gaming PC and then use software like Voicemeeter to mix them into your headphones. I did this for a bit, but I'm not a fan of Voicemeeter because it kept randomly not working for me.

You could always go the Voicemeeter VBAN route, and just pipe everything over your LAN using their VBAN feature. But for me this seemed to break a lot and just annoyed me. It's neat though and requires no cables or mixing hardware.

In the end, the best thing that I've found and settled on and currently use is just a higher end audio interface that comes with some really great mixing software. The interface I use is the Babyface Pro. Alone, this is just a glorified audio interface, but I also use a Digiface USB which is a digital audio interface. I found these through Lirik, who uses this now.

So, in the end, my setup is as so ...

1. Babyface Pro plugged into my gaming PC
   
2. Digiface USB plugged into streaming PC
   
3. Headphones plugged into Babyface Pro
   
   With this setup, which is essentially just 2 audio interfaces, you can isolate basically any audio device into a recording channel and send it to and from the Digiface / Babyface. I've got channels that only I can hear, channels my stream can hear, mixes of channels, etc. I have my game console on its own channel, etc. It all "just works" and you can have MANY output channels instead of struggling to achieve only two. For example, the Digiface that I use has 66 channels.
   
   I do also have a Cloudlifter in my chain, but the Babyface Pro is good enough to give gain to my mic (sm7b). I'm tempted to take the Cloudlifter out and free up even more desk space.
   
   Audio is by far the biggest annoyance when moving to a two PC setup. Hope this helps.

I just got back into car audio. I am adding a single sub to my car and have done some research recently. Here is what I would suggest as a cost effective way to add some bass to your car.

​

Alpine mono amp new at BestBuy for $99. It puts out 500 watts @ 2 ohms.

Alpine MRV-M500 Mono V-Power Digital Amplifier

​

4 gauge amp kits or $19.45 on amazon.

SoundBox Connected 4 Gauge Amp Kit Amplifier Install Wiring Complete 4 Ga Installation Cables 2200W

​

You will need a line our converter (LOC) to hook up the factory stereo to the amp. This one includes a control knob for the amp as well. This one is $19.97.

SCOSCHE LOC2SL Car Stereo 2-Channel Audio Adjustable Amplifier Add-On Adapter with Remote Control Knob

If you want a cheaper one you can buy this one for $7.94.

PAC SNI-35 Variable LOC Line Out Converter

​

You will need an enclosure for the sub. Since you are cost conscious, I imagine you want the most boom for your buck so I would go with a ported sub box. I prefer sealed but it is up to you. This one is $36.95 and has a decent speaker terminal.

ASC Single 12" Subwoofer Universal Fit Vented Port Sub Box Speaker Enclosure

​

|Part|Price|
|:-|:-|
|Amp|$99|
|Amp Kit|$19.45|
|LOC|$7.94|
|Enclosure|$36.95|
|TOTAL before sub woofer, shipping is free.|$163.34|

​

That leaves you $336.66 to spend on a sub woofer and installation if you need it. You could easily get 2 10's and a box and still have a lot of cash left.

​

You can buy a used box pretty cheap on OfferUp or Craigslist as well as a quality amp and sub. I would not buy a used amp kit or a used LOC. However the amp kit you could simply buy the wire directly.

​

You see a lot of people selling JL W3's online used. That is a quality woofer at a good price.

​

I hope this info helps.

(Edit)
Here is the oxygen free wiring kit I purchased. It is a lot more but reasonable priced on Amazon for what you get.
KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit

I don't usually recommend PowerBass because they're a budget brand, but you have a budget and that's exactly what budget brands are perfect for - these will be pretty good for the money . May as well get the matching coaxials to round out your other pair.

this is an excellent 4-channel amp - and it has balanced inputs & signal sensing auto-engage so you don't need that line out converter thing. Even has a summed line out to drive your future subwoofer.

Then of course, an amp kit for power ... that gets you in under bucks with fairly good equipment.

Subs- Sundown SA-12 $398
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981560&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp- Rockford Fosgate R1200-1D $233
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004T0YAMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981758&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Amp wiring- Knukonceptz 4awg $26
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415981794&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

Head unit- Look for a Alpine UTE-42bt or 52bt on eBay. I picked my 42BT up for $80.

And I would recommend building a box to the specs of the Subs. Go to here and it'll tell you http://www.sundownaudio.com/index.php/products/subwoofers/item/sa-series.html

I know it's a little over budget, but it's the best of the best. If you would like I can adjust it. Your total should be around $737 and whatever the mdf costs. You could honestly just drop one of those subs and it cost you about $538 and still sound amazing.

Here's the basic parts list to build a bucket like this:

• 2x 5 Gal buckets with lids (one for res, one for light top.) More buckets for spacers. (check your home improvement store of choice.)
  
• A big roll of black duct tape. This
  
• A roll of FlexFix tape. This
  
• A couple of space blankets. This
  
• A can of 3M spray adhesive. This is the good stuff
  
• 5x light sockets with plug ends. These
  
• 5x Philips SlimStyle LED "75w" 2700k. These
  
• Some heatshrink tubing. Looks good
  
• Some lamp cord and hookup wire. This, And This
  
• A roll of flux/rosin core solder. Your Choice, this looks okay
  
• An airpump. This one is awesome, This will do
  
• Some airstones. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JLA83C/)
  
• A distribution manifold. At least a 3 way
  
• Some air lines. This, Or This
  
• A length of 3/4" pvc pipe and a plug (check your home improvement store of choice).
  
• A water dripper system. [This] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JAY6E/)
  
• Either a netpot and a bucket lid with a hole cut in it OR a premade netpot/bucket lid. This if you want to save some work
  
• Some PC fans. [These are nice and cheap] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTUJZ36/)
  
• A PSU to run the fans and LED strip side lights you might add on spacers. This. It's 80+ at least. I had a few extra PSUs around. I wouldn't use one that isn't at least 80+ since it will be running 24/7.
  
  Lots of this stuff can be had cheaper at a home improvement or pet store. Check around. You'll need a soldering iron (I like my adjustable 40w), a drill and drill bits up to 3/4" (I like step bits for work on plastic), a heatgun or lighter to shrink that heatshrink tubing. An infrared thermometer is nice to have and can tell you the temp of your nutrients, the plant itself, your lights, etc...Just make sure to calibrate it first, all the cheap ones are inaccurate by at least a few degrees.
  

All E36s have the same sheet metal, so replacing the speakers should not be hard. Buy a 4 channel amplifier, a set of 5 1/4" component speakers for the front and a set of 6x9 speakers for the rear.

I have these adapters. They work perfectly with the stock screws and mounting holes in all E36s- regardless of factory speakers. 6x9s are the way to go for the rear. More surface area on the speaker cone means the capability for a bit more bass output on the highway and so on. Also, 4" drivers are hard to find and not worth the trouble. Link to adapters:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZOZRLM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zrzCybCMQ31D1

This amplifier will fit on an 1/8" sheet of ABS plastic where the stock amplifier location is (you may or may not have a factory amp):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S7G1TPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tHzCybJXA9DDS

You will need a line output converter if you want to keep the stock head unit- which it sounds like you do. This goes in between the head unit line level/speaker outputs and the amplifier inputs:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XLzCybRKTEWY2

Speakers are a matter of personal preference. I'd recommend you go to your local big box or car audio shop and listen to the board. Pick the 5 1/4 and 6x9 speakers you like best- any mainstream set should fit with little effort. If you don't feel like looking, here are some would-please-everyone suggestions.

These speakers could perform nicely in the back:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJzCybAXEKGZV

These will fit in the front (hot glue the tweeter into the factory tweeter basket on the door panel):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002X786XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MKzCyb1CT1SCX

If you want a direct aux input, you can modify the stock cassette head unit to accept an aux input with nothing more than a butchered aux cable and a soldering iron.

Okay for a great sounding sub try this Ive heard good things about image dynamics being a great sound quality sub, and for a amp JBL makes a great amp with a clipping detector so you know you set the gains correctly to make your sub last for a long time. Then add this box this a sealed box so if you feel the sub isn't loud enough I recommend building or buying a custom ported box for it down the line, not buying a prefab and wiring kit

Together it equals $480 (I recommend ordering by phone for sonic electronix cause they will give you a good deal buying all that from them.

Do you have a aftermarket headunit in you car already or is it stock?

There are 3 different connectors that you'll have to hook up to the connector that comes with the head unit that plugs into the head unit itself. The other 3 connectors are VERY easy to install. 0 electrical engineering education, but common sense and the color coded instructions on the back of the packaging explains all you need to know.

Radio Antenna harness

Main connection (two main connectors that came out of the factory head unit)

USB Connector (if your car came with usb at the bottom right of the center console)

Should mention that the stock AUX connection won't function. You will have to run an extension from the back of the head unit to somewhere in your car. I routed mine to the left side of the passenger seat held up by this thing.


I don't use the microphone for bluetooth so that's not connected. I don't plan on using my head unit for displaying for any video sources so I didn't bother hooking up the hand brake bypass. The GPS antenna I just stuck to some metal plate that was inside the head unit cavity (pretty strong magnet and pretty accurate).

You may want to pick up a bracket like this. to fill in the rest of the head unit cavity along the sides. I'm not too sure if this is the exact one for the head unit. Crutchfield automatically told me what parts I would need to completely setup the head unit including the bracket and connectors. I couldn't find yours on the site so I can't tell you exactly which bracket to get. They're both Pioneer head units so it's worth a try. The bracket is a generic bracket made for most Toyota cavities to support double DIN sized head units. I had to do some slight Dremel work to get everything to line up with the stock mounting bracket. A solid afternoon with everything and I was set by the end of the day.

I had to contact OEM Audio Plus about how to get power to their amplifier because they have a replacement harness for the stock harness. But that's information that doesn't pertain to you unless you own their system with a subwoofer.

Tl;dr: Links 1-3 are what you need to connect everything. Link 4 is some random accessory I bought that happened to work things out. Link 5 is a bracket adapter to the stock bracket. Last link is the site that showed me all the stuff I needed and I just looked them all up on Amazon.

I would go with

$300 w/install kit Pioneer 80prs

$90 8" silver flute for doors

$60 XT25 tweeters

$70 subwoofer box

$80 Skar VD subwoofer

$170 MB Quart 5 channel amp

$60 knukonceptz wire kit

$40 Noico sound deadener


Over budget, $870, but that is some good kit for the money. I am not sure which wire harness you need since you aren't keeping the stock bose amp.... that would be a great thing to ask in crutchfield chat window.

Run the 80prs in network mode, cross your sub/mids at somewhere between 80 and 200, mids and tweeters anywhere from 2500 to 5000hz. Tweak around until it sounds best to you. Should sound great.

Does it sound anything like this?

If not, can you record it?

I suspect it's not the Sansui. The headphone out is just resistively tapped off of the speaker out. This means that you should hear the exact same thing through the speakers and the headphone jack.

Connecting the Sansui to your computer has the potential to create or reveal all sorts of interference. The above sample is from a cellphone communicating with a tower, but the computer itself is full of all sorts of noise. It could be that everything the computer attempts to record will have this problem.

Make sure you're using the 'line in' and not the 'mic' connection on the computer. Microphone inputs have a large amount of gain and this will only cause problems if the source is capable of driving line level inputs (the Sansui definitely is).

Try recording from another source, preferably something battery powered that has no wireless capability. If it's not plugged in to anything else then it cannot easily conduct interference. It can still act as an antenna for radiated interference though.

Try using an isolator to see if that helps. This will use a transformer on each channel to break the conductive path between the devices and only pass audio frequencies through. Useful for ground loops but not for radiated interference pickup (like the cellphone example).

Hope that helps.

> I am planning on replacing all 4 door speakers, which I believe are 5" with 6x8 kicker cs series. Total cost for the speakers being $100.

You'd be far better off with 5.25" components, and spending your money on the fronts only to get better speakers. The Kicker CS are frankly pretty damn bad. Try these. You can run them off HU power for now and amp them later to improve the sound.

> I still have the stock stereo, and I'm debating on even replacing it, because if I do, I will lose my fuel economy button/readings. If I replaced it, I planned on replacing it with a Kenwood DPX502BT. It is amplified and I was told with the Kenwood amplifying to the stock amplifier then to the speakers that would increase total wattage to the speakers. I'm not sure if I actually need that, since right now with the stock blown speakers I can definitely turn them up past where I would ever listen to them already. So aside from having bluetooth, I don't see much of a benefit.

You can keep the stock HU and run a LOC to an aftermarket amp, or you can use an aftermarket HU and run straight to an aftermarket amp. Putting aftermarket speakers on the factory amp is a bad idea. There's too much built-in, un-defeatable processing on that signal that doesn't work right for anything other than the speakers it's meant for.

> Next I was going to put a cheap sub in there. There is a 8" bandpass sound ordinance sub on crutchfield for $100. Very good reviews on it considering the price point.

Please don't do that. This sub (dual 2 ohm) in a simple sealed box, or a custom ported box if you want to do a bit more work, would serve you much better. You also need a sub amp, which it looks like you haven't considered. This is a great budget amp. You also need a wiring kit, like this one.

In my experience, there are two schools of thought on wiring in accessories. The first and most common approach is to tap into the vehicle's existing wiring to power all your stuff off the main battery. This is a terrible thing to do, though, especially with modern vehicles as they can be very sensitive to voltage drops and changes. Plus, it introduces the potential for countless gremlins that will ruin a trip, and may cause your vehicle to not function.

​

The second and better school of thought is to design a secondary electrical system from scratch, that is connected only once to the main vehicle and that is at the battery OR the alternator (Battery is easier and way more common). The second way gives you a lot more freedom to build your system, because it all comes down to math. First, start with your power source -- how are you going to power your stuff?

​

If you are going to do a second battery, then that's your answer. Find a place to put it that is near the chassis (as in, keep the weight low) and make sure you can secure it so it does not become a projectile. Connect it to your main battery using a DC to DC Charger (CTEK is good, Redarc is great and priced to match, Renogy is good but cheaper and not as widely tested). Then, install a fuse block near the second battery and run your accessories to that. If you want to run everything off the main battery, then instead of finding a place to install a second battery, just do the Fuse Block.

​

The Fuse Block then becomes what you wire everything extra to -- literally everything that didn't come with the car should go through this fuse block. It's only connected to the main battery by two wires. By starting with this principle, if there are any problems at all with your accessories, your vehicle should still run without any electrical gremlins causing your rig to sit down, and if you need to totally isolate the system, 5 minutes to disconnect those two wires is all it takes.

​

As far as the accessories themselves, the rest then becomes pretty easy -- figure out the energy required to run the accessory (quality manufacturers will supply this info), figure out where you are going to physically install the accessory, and how long the run of wire will be to power it. Select a wire that will be appropriate for the current, and you are good to go.. If you have many accessories in one place -- lets say you want to have a dash panel with 4 switches in it -- then I recommend getting multi-strand cables, like this:

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Metra-MC918-20-20-Feet-Nine-Conductor-Multi-Use/dp/B004H1KAMQ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=vehicle+wiring+multi+conductor&qid=1563898763&s=gateway&sr=8-2

​

This allows you to route one "Master" Cable to your switch block rather than running 10 individual wires. Obviously you'll need to buy the right gauge wire for your application.

​

A few other pointers:

​

• Grommets anywhere the cables pass through any hard surface.
  
• Shield cables as much as you can from wear and tear so that they don't short out.
  
• Put fuses in so that if you do have a short, power is killed immediately. I usually put fuses as close to the power source as I can. For instance, if I put a fuse 6" from my battery, and run that cable to my rear bumper, it doesn't matter where in the length of the vehicle I get a short -- the fuse will blow at the battery. If I were to put the same fuse at the bumper end, I could have a short anywhere along the length of that cable which could start fires.
  
• Make friends with dielectric grease and use it on every connector you see -- stock and accessories. Exposure to moisture (and the corrosion that comes with it) is the enemy of good electrical systems so this helps prevent that.
  
• Make sure you only use multi-strand automotive grade wire. Some folks I know have wired up things using household wiring, which is usually insulated solid core wire. That works fine in stationary applications but in a vehicle, the wire will move and bend and the multi-strand wire has way more flexibility.
  
  ​
  
  We are hoping to use the ARB Linx system in our new rig to limit the number of wires we have to run. It's a fairly new option though so not a lot of people are familiar with it -- it might be worth a look though as it could save you some work.

Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...

Let's do this a little bit differently.

Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.

Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.

Do this instead:

Same brand but higher model

With this amp

and this wiring kit.

Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size

No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.

All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.

I would agree. I have a nice box design that would work for it also and it would be a nice system that could get down and for a first system it will be nice. Also need a wiring kit. So [this one.] (http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII) A single sheet of 3/4 MDF will be $35 and a single bottle of glue will be $5. Awesome beginner system to have IMO. If you don't want this OP, Rockford sells loaded enclosures right [here] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/search?keyword=loaded+subwoofer+enclosures&query_id=34051166&query_code=311397&SearchClickout%5Bquery_id%5D=34051166&manufacturer_id=13) and all you need after one of those is a amp and wiring kit. If you don't have a aftermarket Headunit then you will need a LOC which is like $25 for a good one regardless of which system you choose. And also if you haven't built a box before, don't be intimidated it is the best type of box you can get and the design I has simple cuts and everything.

You won’t be able to see voltage drops normally, the amp may be getting voltage but not enough amps. Check continuity on the amp wire and make sure there’s not added resistance in the wire. Should be damn near nothing.

And I’ve always had good luck with the kicker kits and I’ve hear good things about the knukonceptz kits.

Normally when a client comes in to us and says that they have a amp cutting out and going into protect mode, we swap it with our shop test amp and sub, which is a kicker cxa 600.1 and kicker comp r 12” and we crank the shit out of it and see, if it cuts out with that system then we swap the wires and all is good, if it doesn’t we sell them an amp and sub.

KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Gg.7Cb5PNTECF

Kicker PK4 4 Gauge OFC Power Amplifier Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IFA6C1S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fh.7Cb7E4TQZN

One thing that may solve this problem is to use balanced outputs. Since you have an interface that uses RCA, they are not balanced. You would need an interface(like the Scarlett 2i2) with TRS or XLR outputs. Getting a better interface probably isn't in the cards for you, but that is one solution.

A cheaper alternative would be to get a ground loop isolator like this one here for $10:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541691319&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

This product worked like a charm for my JBL's. It looks like you will also have to buy a few different cables as well since yours won't plug into this.

Ah yes I forgot about the mic... So I guess I'll go for the X1s anyway and plug the mic into my motherboard with a jack extension cable and hope for the best.

Just to double check, if that causes a gound loop, a noise isolator like the Mpow one plugged between the X1s and the X2 would work fine right?

Thanks again for being so available, it's greatly appreciated.

Your amp puts out 800W @ 2 ohms. For your budget I'd get:


Sundown SA-12 D4 - $195 (it says 600W but will handle 800W)

[KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amp Installation Kit]
(http://amzn.com/B0050I6KII) - $27

Build your own ported box to spec - $30-$50, guides are online, it's fun, and it will fit your car and the subwoofer perfectly and sound way better than any old cheap box.

I like this article. If you go sealed, it's very easy. Ported will provide more output, but you need to know exactly how long/wide your port should be for your subwoofer.

As to what to look for, with any sub and amp, RMS power is all that matters. Stick with name brands you know. Although these aren't phenomenal or anything, with your budget you'll probably be looking for Pioneer, Kicker, Kenwood, Alpine, MTX, Sony, Rockford, JL. Stay away from Boss or anything that's like Boss (designed by a 14 year old boy/only lists peak output).

Lastly, you do need wires to hook all this up. Here's an example. I would recommend that brand unless you wanted to just buy welding wire through a local electrician store (it's the same stuff but cheaper). Everyone around here would recommend 4 gauge, but if you want to do 8 gauge, it'll be perfectly fine (I doubt you're going to end up running a lot of power).

Thanks for the extra suggestions. I also have the X2s and agree they are incredible sounding headphones. If OP has the money to burn then these take the spot of the SHP9500 easy.

For the mic, I prefer the boom mic since I had issues with my keyboard getting picked up on my Blue Snowball while I had it. I even tried putting dampers on my MX Brown keyboard to get rid of the clack. GREAT sound quality, but it picked up literally everything.

As for ground loop hums I've never had a problem with that but something like the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator is a great solution. Using one in my car as it is an incredibly noisy environment for EMI.

The only way you'll get it to auto on/off is if you hardwire it in. Which is super easy.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_6rIPBbHPMWDWA

Is what I used. It's good little camera for the price. The quality is pretty good for watching on your phone..but I found it you try to take the video on to the computer it gets worse.

Just made me chuckle when I saw the little gray box while looking your truck over. Very nice man.

Modifications I'd make:

• Replace the wiring kit with this
  
  
• Replace the RCAs with 3 of these
  
  The RCAs in your list are only 1M (3 feet) long which is too short to go from the deck to under the seat. The Knu RCAs are, in my opinion, the best on the market without getting into crazy prices.
  
  As I stated in another comment, I really don't think that sub is going to fit under your seat. It's possible the newer WRX has a different design but based on previous experience with my '01 RS 2.5, and knowing that Subaru hasn't changed the seats much between now and '01, I'm pretty sure it's way too big.
  
  Your deck and amp choices are great.
  

Ok mobile at the moment do I can't dig too far in but here's some quick results that look like they should work.


[Scosche NN03B Wire Harness to Connect An Aftermarket Stereo Receiver for Select 1995-Up Infiniti/Nissan] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_s1NvCbF8GSD2Y)


[Metra Electronics 40-NI12 Antenna Cable to Aftermarket Radio Adapter for Select 2007-Up Infiniti/Nissan Vehicles] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PANZ7U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t4NvCbTQJXTKT)

The job was simple enough if you're familiar with wiring. Match the functions of the harness that comes with the stereo with the adapter, crimp then together and bolt it all back together.

One thing to note is that there is no ground in the factory wiring. You will need to run one separately. I'd suggest hitting a bolt to the chassis nearby to minimize any ground loops.

I'm sure you can find a good write up over at the nextera forums if you get stuck.

Another note of caution. The two metal retaining clips in the bezel love to scratch the dash. Cover it with a cloth to save the surfaces.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

$700 is a little tight for subs, box, wiring, amp, all new door speakers, possible amp for them.

A Dayton HO is a great bang for the buck. Here's about the cheapest amp to push it, that's not a piece of shit. Here's the cheapest 4 gauge wiring kit that's not shit. Here's the cheapest LOC that's not shit. Then you still need a box for the sub. Either building it yourself or buying a prefab is going to run you ~$50. So we're at ~$460 already. I'd throw a Key amp on those factory door speakers and let its DSP do work. So that's $660 total, plus some possible tax or shipping.

Related but separate note, I'd like to see what connector your factory head unit has. There were two possibilities for that vehicle. But I'd think about buying the male and female Metra harnesses for the head unit. It'll make splicing in the Key amp and LOC easier and cleaner. No cutting factory wires. Should be like $30 total. Search 70-1722 and 71-1722 on Amazon for example. If that harness looks like yours, buy em. But it might be the 70-1729 harness?

You will need to buy an amp and sub. It looks like your headunit has preouts so that is good. You can put together a fairly decent sub stage for $500. if you can build a box yourself that will help you budget quite a bit. if you want to save room and still have a pretty decent bump in low end I would look at a single 12" sealed.

Subs:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-ev3-12-subwoofer-e12v3-500w-e-series.html

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/dcon-12-sound-solutions-audio-12-400w-dcon-series-subwoofer.html

Amp:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/twisted-sounds-ts1kw.html

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/nvx-bda7501-amplifier.html

wiring kit:

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484576902&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+KOL-AK4

if you have to go with a prefab box i would do something like this if it would fit:

https://www.parts-express.com/denovo-audio-knock-down-mdf-10-cu-ft-subwoofer-cabinet--300-7085

sure thing. the box on my desk is a Schiit SYS (the specs are in the imgur album, but I just now posted it in here too as a reply). The SYS is just an input selector with volume control. I am using my motherboard's onboard DAC since it is actually a good one. So an RCA to 3.5mm cable goes out of my PC goes into a ground loop isolator in the back and then the RCA end goes into the SYS.

I have my turntable go into the box on the right of it, which is a phono pre-amp. This brings the turntable audio to line level and makes it suitable for output on my speakers. I have RCA cables go from the preamp into the SYS. So this allows me to switch between PC output or turntable output.

I don't need a separate amp for my speakers because they are powered speakers. They sound great and the whole system is a huge upgrade from my previous ones. I used to have the turntable plug into the PC via USB, but the quality took a huge loss. I used to have my PC go into a separate DAC (actually an audio interface, the Scarlett 2i2, but it is a very capable DAC as well) and then to the speakers. The sound quality when using the Scarlett is the same as having it go out of my motherboard now actually. The biggest difference was getting good speakers and having the turntable go through a phono preamp.

The headset is a steelseries headset that plugs into my PC via USB. I have a pair of ATHM50's, but I don't have a good way to plug them into my PC. I have plugged them into the audio port of my PC and that has been fine, but no way to use headphones with the turntable currently. I may get a headphone amp in the future, but since I live alone, headphone listening isn't a priority.

hope this helps!

This was a issue for me. I wanted something to use on my deck and yard. I just used a first gen solar Eton Ruckus. Plug in a Chromecast audio into its USB charge port and aux port. I needed a noise filter because of a ground loop. This is the one I used, it's about the size of the packets of Lifesavers candy. My ruckus has a pocket, for lack of better term, that holds everything.

http://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2

Sugru or Velcro can also attach it to your speaker. The other thing I had was a short micro USB cable to power it. It's definitely less than elegant but it's functional.

Edit: I actually recommend against getting the built-in Chromecast speakers. I'll tell you why, I was into airplay speakers the manufacturers never update them. Some of my earlier airplay speakers barely work with the new operating system. Luckily they do work well still with airfoil and android airplay apps like allstream and AirAudio. If Google actually makes it's own; I would buy one. Or somebody makes one that you can dock a Chromecast audio I'd buy that.

Edit: fixed text (used dictation)

Haven't gotten my Rav4 yet, but have cleanly installed dash cams and rear reverse cameras on half a dozen cars already.

For a clean install, [get a wiring kit like this.] (https://www.amazon.com/MicroUSB-MiniUSB-Hardwire-Adapters-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=fuse+box+usb&qid=1569253472&s=gateway&sr=8-8)

Run the USB line properly above the edge of the headliner to position the dash cam, run the line down the A-pilar trim, and route into the drivers side footwell, hiding the wire from sight. You will need to pull the fuse for cigarette lighters in the fuse box located in the driverside footwell, typically a yellow 20 amp, see diagram on the lid. Then you plug this in its place and add a fuse into the provided slot to keep all the cigarette lighters functional. That will provide you with the (+) line and just loosen a nut or bolt that's attached to anything metal in the foot well and wrap the black wire with the end stripped, around the bolt and tighten it in place, that should provide it with (-) to complete the circuit.

Zip tie up the loose wires and use larger zip ties to keep all the parts in place. Enjoy your clean installation. If that's too difficult, get a ~10ft USB cable that matches your dash cam's and run it under the headliner, A-pillar and run it though the trim and route around as best as you can to the nearest cigarette lighter with adapter or USB port and plug it. This method might work better running down the passengers side, but is the uglier messier method.

Googling the Arctis Pro headset suggests to me that this is a wired headset. If it is wireless, then I've got no idea what's going on.

It sounds like your particular problem is a common one called ground loop noise, that occurs when source and destination use the same power supply or are connected to a common ground. My knowledge of electronics is limited, but I know about sound so I was able to research this enough to have a clue what might be going on. The fact that reducing the volume makes it go away is consistent with ground loop noise; lower volume means lower power and lower interference.

This could be an equipment defect, especially if this headset advertises clear 5x5 performance, though in my experience the advantages of a wired headset focus on ear comfort and constant uptime (no dependence on battery life). RF interference is an inevitable consequence of using a wire.

I suspect this noise may not exist until the signal reaches the computer, so using an inline filter won't remove it. It seems like a cheap part, though, so you could try it with minimal investment.

https://www.amazon.com/BESIGN-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B06XQYN77L?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1

Alternatively, you could plug your headset into a tiny USB sound adapter. A dedicated sound adapter may be smart enough to take measures to prevent this from occurring by simply isolating the power feeds or filtering the interference. The price range on that is larger, and I don't know if a cheap one will be crap and not actually fix your problem. This one looks good to me:

https://www.newegg.com/creative-sound-blaster-play-3/p/N82E16829102100?item=N82E16829102100&ignorebbr=1&source=region&nm_mc=knc-googleadwords-pc&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwords-pc-_-pla-_-sound+card-_-N82E16829102100&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpPHoBRC3ARIsALfx-_LHOvI9v1FKxzvmeEbCIO99WXsNg-5Zy1pfh6QDO8XWiowVKEUQQiAaAmvwEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

OR... you could remove the noise with a software filter. I don't currently have this problem on any of my own equipment, so I can't test any of these, but something like NoiseGator may work.

https://sourceforge.net/projects/noisegator/

That's all I've got. I hope this helps, or at least gives you a starting point to understand your problem better and find a solution.

It's no where near 1000w rms, but I second the 4 awg as a minimum.

This kit be perfect for your needs. Knu has true gauge wire (if not oversized) and their prices are great.

Never seen that website before. That would be a bit overkill. The speakers look good tho.

If you're looking to save money you can go with something like this.
Amp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HY84/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328240&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=510stvQfv1L&ref=plSrch
Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328354&sr=8-23&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=6.5+coaxial+speakers

Now if you go that route you'll need an amp install kit. Knu koncepts of very well loved here. I have this same kit in my car.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CIJBKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328557&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51T-yGZf9YL&ref=plSrch

This will give you plenty of wire for when you add the sub + amp.

Buy some real 14 AWG silicone jacket wire, (this is what I'm using) and a set of quality XT60 connectors like these.

Ideally you want crimped ring terminals for all power leads that connect to screw terminals, putting bare wire into them isn't how they're meant to be used.

The 14 AWG has enough area so you can solder them to both positive and negative pads on the heatbed respectively, and terminate those with 1 XT60 connector. A word of advice - dismount your heatbed, flip it upside down and put it on something that can take some heat for a bit like corkboard. Heat it up to 60-80C, turn it off, then remove the stock connector and solder the wires. Otherwise you'll get nowhere trying to solder to a room temp heatsink.

The matching XT60 connector uses the same 14AWG to crimped ring terminals, going to the MOSFET board. For reference, here's one I'm using on my printer.

I only removed the power pins from my bed, I pre-cut the connector so I could leave the middle pins and connector shell for the temp sensor attached to the bed, then I could still use that to disconnect those wires. Works great because the little retaining mechanism is in the middle of the connector over the sensor wires.

Pre-tin the XT60 wire cups and the wire itself before you try to solder them together unless you've got both a beefy soldering iron and good soldering skills, otherwise your connector will end up with a faulty solder connection.

Now it's easy to disconnect the heatbed.

Everyone's going to have a different opinion on what to buy, but I'll take a stab...

Electronics:

• Receiver - $140, has 10 band EQ, full crossover setup, and time alignment capabilities
  
• 5 channel amp - $230 - has crossover settings to allow setup of active front stage
  
  Speakers:
  
  There are 2 directions you can go here, active front stage, or passive with rear fill. I'm going to give you an active front stage setup with no rear speakers. Door drivers for this car are difficult due to the shallow mounting depth so I stuck with speakers that are less than 2.5" deep
  
  
• 5.25" woofers - $150
  
• 1" tweeters - $150
  
  Subwoofer:
  
  
• 12" Subwoofer - $160
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• Dash Kit - $13
  
• Wire Harness - $7
  
• Front speaker adapter - $10
  
• 4x8 sheet MDF. screws, glue, etc. from hardware store for building sub enclosuse: $74
  
• Speaker terminal kit for sub box - $6
  
• Amp wiring kit - $60
  
• 16 gauge speaker wire - $20 (need more for active front stage run)
  
• 12 gauge speaker wire - $20 (for your subwoofer)
  
• Sound deadending kit 40 sq ft - $100
  
• Other random install accessories, tools, and little gotcha stuff: $60
  
  Grand total: $1,200

Enclosure and wiring kit. Pioneer recommends a 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure. Sorry I can't find a premade one at those specs, you may have to build it yourself or commission one to be made for you. There are other guys on this subreddit who love that shit though!

As for the wiring kit most people agree KnuConceptz is the best. Here's their 4 gauge which would work fine for this application.

Edit: Oh yeah, if you're keeping your factory headunit you'll need a way to get an audio signal to your amp :P Most popular way of doing this is a line out converter

My vote goes to this Soundqubed sub and either this Fosgate amp, this Alpine amp, this Kenwood amp, or this Pioneer amp. All those amps are good brands and will be decent. As for the box, make your own. Shouldn't cost more that 50. Also will need wires, KnuKnoceptz makes great wire for cheap, this 8 guage ofc wire kit that would match up perfectly with all these amps is like 34 bucks for quality wire. Sadly all this will add up somewhere around 300 but if you find the amp used you might be able to slide under 250. If you go used make sure you get a quality brand. Don't skimp on the box or wire either, they are both just as important as a good amp and sub combo.

Wiring

Obsidian Audio Subs

Amp

I'm not the best on amps but for a budget like that, this should be good enough. The best thing for a box is either to build it yourself because you won't get the sound you want from a prefab. Try to find someone in the area (Car shop, Car Audio place, Audio place) that can make you a box.

So I've decided to go with your recommendations of the E12 and the Fosgate R500X1D. I was wondering if I could save a few dollars on the wiring kit though, as it seems a bit pricey. I found a Belva kit here that's half the price. I've heard bad things about their amps+subs but this wiring kit has good reviews.

I also found this kit by KnuKonceptz that's similarly priced to the Belva kit. Does the kit you linked include something that makes it worth twice as much?

Also, would you be so kind as to recommend a good Line Out Converter?

EDIT: I see that the R500X1D has speaker level inputs. Does that mean I don't need to get a LOC? Do you have any input, /u/dangercdv ?

This isn’t a solution necessarily, but it may fix your speakerphone problem. I used to use AUX in my car before I found this little Bluetooth-AUX receiver. Plugs into both a cig lighter and your AUX, then every time you turn your car on your phone automatically connects to Bluetooth. Pretty handy, and works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vsGIDbCXA7R6Z


I’d recommend also picking this up if you’re interested - it silences the weird static noise the BT receiver produces through the car speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4tGIDbQDWD06Q

Alpine SWA-12S4 BassLine Series 12" 4-ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CE9682O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_WLggvb16ZJVM7


http://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB1221V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

Soundstream PN1.650D Class D 650w Monoblock Picasso Nano Series Subwoofer Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L117RK/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_QMggvb00WJSNJ


KnuKonceptz KCA Complete 8 Gauge Amp Installation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IY3BI6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_hOggvb1872SWH

$80 box, 2 x $60 subs, $110 amp, $20 wiring, total $330. Way better quality components. Recommended the same box and subs to a different user on here and they love it!

Let me know if you have any more questions or need help :)

All a shielded cable is is effectively foil or another dielectric wrapped around the cord. It's pretty cheap, so as long as you buy one from a reputable dealer the chances are you're getting the real deal.

Another thing that could be tried is attaching a ferrite core to the cable. They soak up any RFI and EMI noise being inducted on the cable to a certain extent. Not a substitute for shielding, but they can help in some cases.

I have had a very similar issue before with some microphones when being fed plug-in or phantom power when the microphones didn't need it or at the incorrect voltage. I'd imagine that the G7 is putting plug-in power out the microphone input. Some cameras do let you disable that in the settings menu so worth a try if you can.

It could just be the G7 itself with internal noise issues. I havn't heard anyone complain that the G7 has such issues though, so that would be a first for me, though that sort of 'digital noise' is very common in complicated devices like PC sound cards where there's a lot of activity on the board around the preamps.

Not sure if the G7 has either of these, but if the camera does have wi-fi or bluetooth make sure those are switched off too.

If you stick with the 8" (and get a good one with some nice power behind it) I personally think an 8" would do just fine.

I went through amazon, and found everything I used:

• Sub
  
  
• Amp
  
  
• Wiring Kit
  
  
• Grille
  
  
• Box Felt
  
  Like I've said elsewhere, I wish I would have taken a picture of the box I built. It wasn't vented, and was about ~25% too small, but it still sounds great.
  
  Edit: It was roughly this shape: Not to scale

Whatever you do, spend the extra money on Oxygen Free Copper 4 guage for power. If you have any issues Copper Clad Aluminum will melt and catch fire, and is just all around terrible and incredibly unsafe. I would Recommend Dual for very cheap budget amps. Also might want to look at pioneer amps as well. Boss is just complete trash no matter how you look at it. Otherwise the speakers and head unit are very solid choices.

Actualy, now that I think of it, you can get an AMAZING head unit for not much more: https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-iLX-W650-Mech-Less-Receiver-Compatible/dp/B07NQ2BRFM

If your budget can afford it, you can get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW7Z8NI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer+5+channel+amp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5 or if you just need power for the sub then https://www.amazon.com/Skar-Audio-RP-600-5-Full-Range-5-Channel/dp/B01LW8V8CD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=pioneer%2B5%2Bchannel%2Bamp&qid=1571410867&s=electronics&sr=1-5&th=1

And with OFC, you can use one size smaller due to higher quality, so this wiring kit will be ideal for your uses: https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B0058OENJ2/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=ofc+8+guage&qid=1571410941&s=electronics&sr=1-4

I've been trying to get a similar solution but between two PC's. I'm not a streamer, I just want to listen to a feed both and adjust the volume as needed. I bought a Rolls MiniMixer II which does the job.

​

I use Line out 3.5 to RCA into the a pair of line ins into the MiniMixer - then from the line out into a headphone amp to push the feed into my headphones. I put a ground loop isolator to minimize hiss.

​

I've been happy so far, but I'm wondering if there is a better solution.

OK. So here is where I am. I have decided to first work on installing an aftermarket DOUBLE-DIN head unit with Bluetooth wireless speakerphone, Aux-in, etc. (and I will do the amp + subwoofer in the next phase).

So far I've purchased:

1. Dash Kit which is apparently appropriate for my 1999 Lexus LS400: Scosche LS2085B
   
2. Wire Harness Kit which someone on Amazon reported worked flawlessly for an aftermarket stereo in their 1998 Lexus LS400: [Metra 70-1761 Radio Wiring Harness] (http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-1761-Wiring-Harness-Speaker/dp/B0002BEQJ8/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_3)
   
   Now (I believe) the only thing left for me to purchase is a double-din aftermarket head unit. Do you happen to know of any that would be compatible with this setup? Or am I pretty much able to use any head unit I want because I've installed a dash kit?
   
   Thank you so, so, so much. I can't tell you how much your help means.

I'm really only looking for the Bluetooth/AUX connections. Will this work for that? Or is there a better solution?

A wiring harnesss like this? I didn't realize you had to wire each connection up to an after market stereo. Meh, shouldn't be that bad.

Am I better off just getting something like this?

There are plenty of tutorials online. Are you using a stock rx-8 stereo or aftermarket? To keep things as simple as I possibly can, you'll need to run a power line from the battery to the amplifier with an in-line fuse. Run a ground wire from the amplifier to any grounded metal. You also need to run the remote wire. If you're using an aftermarket stereo, they always have a remote line in the wiring harness. I'm not sure if the rx-8 stock radio does or not. You can also run the remote line to your fuse box but you need to make sure the fuse only gets power when the car is turned on or your amp will suck power out of your battery when the car is off. Those are the three main cables you need to turn the amp on. Now you'll need the cables that will provide audio signal from your stereo. So you'll need to run an rca cable from your stereo to the amplifier. If the rx-8 doesn't have subwoofer rca out, you can always use a speaker wire -to- rca adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4EF1BC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tKuJBbQ5H9RKZ
This will let you run speaker wire from your speakers to this adapter and convert that signal to rca for your amplifier. This way means that the the subs will be acting as normal full range speakers but if you just want some bass it'll work fine. Then you'll need to run speaker wire from your amp to your subs. It's complicated in words and there are plenty of videos out there so I recommend watching them and following along. Good luck!

I know you asked about an amp kit from Sonic, but I would highly recommend getting this kit from Amazon.

Some of the low end brands on Sonic that sell amp kits won't give you wire that's as thick as they actually it is (i.e. some '4 gauge' cables will have thicker sheathes and less wire than others). Knu Konceptz over-sizes their wires plus this kit is made with oxygen-free copper instead of cheaper copper clad aluminum, which would provide better current flow and OFC doesn't corrode as easily. It's a great deal for the price.

Had this issue with our 09. Bought a ground loop filter off Amazon and that took care of it.

This is the one I bought (or so says my amazing order history): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6pzFybQ1Z9Q0D

I'm sure others like it would work.

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

Infinity Reference 5 channel amp - $239.99

[4 AWG amp kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RWK4CU-Copper-Complete-Installation/dp/B019Z3RCG2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550159767&sr=8-6&keywords=4+awg+amp+kit) - $49.95

9 wire - $24.95

Additional RCAs - $19.99

4 channel LOC - $23.34 - You need this because you're keeping your factory radio

RCA splitter - $7.45 - To get the 4 channel LOC to 6 channels for the amp's input. There's maybe other ways you could do this, but this is what I would do because it'd be the simplest to swap the radio in the future.

Infinity Reference 6.5" for the doors - $56.95/pair x 2 = $113.90

Infinity Reference 3.5" for the dash - $48.70

= $528.37 + Installation which will easily run between $200 - $350

If you'd like to spend a bit more you might ask about sound dampening on the doors. Or you might save the extra and put it towards replacing the radio in the future.

It's most likely not CB, it's probably HAM (amateur radio). Like /u/a_crazy_horse said, if you ask him, he will probably help you eliminate the interface, although he is not legally required to.

Your headphones and computer are a FCC Part 15 device, and must accept all unwanted interference by law, but that doesn't mean he's not a nice guy who likes solving problems like that.

Onto further diagnosing. Something is acting as an antenna for you, it could be the headphone wire, or any of the other numerous cables running into your computer. I'd start with ferrite chokes and see if that stops it. With the electrical wiring in your house being the longest wire that the computer is connected to, I would start with your computers power cord, then the headphones, but it won't hurt to do both.

In regards to other comments here, 4 watts is the legal maximum on CB, for amateur it is 1500 watts. Also, the police will do nothing for you. It's a waste of yours and their time to try. You can try the FCC, and they would probably tell you to talk to the neighbor first, which takes us back to the top of this comment. But ultimately, the FCC is responsible for things like this.

On a side rant, nobody ever speaks to their neighbors anymore when they have a problem, communication is wonderful.

Day old post, don't care.

I bought some Revision Desert Locust goggles off ebay for ~$30. Spent another $20 for a 25mm fan (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MYNWUP4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01), some 20ga wire (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JT1CEE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01), and some on/off switches (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FH7WN2Y?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00).

I placed the fan to one side of the goggles (currently held in place with hot glue, but might "upgrade" to zip ties instead), ran the wires on top of the goggles (held in place with zip ties) to the on/off switch on the other side. Then ran wires to the back where I have a spare rechargeable battery held in place with velcro. Covering the battery up with the cover that came with the goggles.

That fan puts out 2.8 CFM with not a hole lot of noise, and at only 25mm, that's an astonishing amount of air!!! I haven't had a chance to try it out yet, but I will be this weekend. The on/off switch is to keep what little noise the fan puts out down, as with these goggles, I do not forsee needing the fan constantly on.

Hey! If you have a cassette player, you're gonna need an adapter which can be found here if not you dont need this! Make sure the measurements of the radio match up, it should fit most single/double din radios.


After that make sure to buy a wiring harness


And then get your radio!



Also this would help a bunch, be sure you have a 8mm socket ready.

I have this https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Wide-Angle-G-Sensor-Dual-Port-Charger/dp/B075VRXRD6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=aukey+dash+cam+dr02d&qid=1555966124&s=electronics&sr=1-3


and tied it into the fuse box with this
https://www.amazon.ca/MicroUSB-MiniUSB-Hardwire-Adapters-Protection/dp/B072J3L2JN/ref=pd_bxgy_107_img_3/136-5260954-8759003?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B072J3L2JN&pd_rd_r=07df55ef-6540-11e9-94bd-393e388bbf8d&pd_rd_w=oatjH&pd_rd_wg=05PLf&pf_rd_p=88f05819-6e09-4eaf-970e-fd581a2a2708&pf_rd_r=C8SC7MFT36MYWHRH58M6&psc=1&refRID=C8SC7MFT36MYWHRH58M6

​

Looks great as its design is more flush with the windshield. I have it mounted just to the left of the rear-mirror mount and it still leaves room for the mirror to angle for the driver. Very easy to install and the wires fit into the mouldings just fine.


Have a look at the quality it produces from one of my vids here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vRKKvaS7RmM
It has a refresh rate faster than my LEDs (which is why my LEDs are flickering in the reflection).

Ok, I think I got this.

-

1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
   
2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
   
3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
   
4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
   
5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.
   
   So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?
   
   Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

Cool beans :)

Might be able to improve results with the third party supply by wrapping the cable a few times through a big clip on ferrite like this https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543299320&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rfi+filter&psc=1&smid=A2C3AMRQC5GI7N

I would get this wire kit instead: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417578842&sr=8-2&keywords=knuconcepts+4guage

It is Oxygen Free Copper and has a higher current capacity. The wire you chose has a max rating of 100Amps. Your amp has 120Amps worth of fuses on it. So you will want to get a better wire.

The one I posted should be perfect.

Funny you should mention that, I think all Z5's DO share the issue, because I bought the first set from Best Buy, returned them because they wouldn't price match, got the same speakers from amazon, and am now just praying that the ones suggested work, because oh my god returning stuff is a pain in the ass.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2 Heck I wonder if one of these might help lol.

Also, it's sudden volume changes you say?

In that case I think you would be satisfied with an ISOBAR8ULTRA, ground loop isolator, and a couple power squids.

Use the ground loop isolator on the audio cable to your computer. Plug the speakers directly into one of the plugs on the surge supressor. The plugs on this supressor are arranged into four filter banks. Try different devices in plug paired with the speaker one and listen for any interference. This should take care of all your issues for under a hundred dollars and I don't think you will get much better performance without spending MUCH more.

edit: If your budget can stretch a bit more you may enjoy some of the features of the Digital Loggers Web Power Switch 4 or Ethernet Power Controller III. I can attest that they are quality products although they do not have any EMI/RFI filtering (which you may not need anyway).

If the Technics Amp does not have PRE-AMP output, then this gets difficult. It can probably be done, but it is unclear how well it will work.

https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/sa-103.shtml

There are Speaker Level to Line Level (RCA) converters that are meant of car stereos. But they might work for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-RFHLC-Speaker-Signal-Adapter/dp/B009VTDVMU/

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KISLOC-2-Channel-Speaker-Converter/dp/B00I4EF1BC/

Though search AMAZON for "speaker level to line level converter" though be aware that it doesn't always return the correct products. But you will see some similar to those above.

If you are willing to seek alternatives, then give us a working budget for those alternatives.

Also important, what is the source of your sound? TV? Turntable? Computer? CD Player? Network Streaming? Other? All of the above? None of the above?

I'm guessing absolute minimum for an alternative solutions is going to be in the $50 to $100 range. But to make those suggestions we need to know what is going into the system in terms of sources of sound. And we need a clear declaration of your working budget.

Oh! Then you're ready to roll! The set should've come with some set up instructions. The setup should look like this:

Xbox USB and Optical go into the mixamp

Headset connects to mixamp

Stream/aux out goes from the mixamp to your PC's 3.5 audio-in port. You'll be able to add that audio as a source in OBS.

But before you do all this, install the Astro software on your PC so you can program the mixamp. I recommend setting it up so that ONLY chat audio goes through the 3.5 port, not the game audio (game audio will be better quality if you just use the audio from the HDMI/elgato).

Tweaking your sound levels will take some time because (as far as I know) you don't really have a way of monitoring/listening to what your viewers will hear as your streaming. What I did was record myself playing a quick game , joining chat and trying to talk as much as possible, then going back and listening to the recording. Based on what you hear, you tweak your game audio, chat audio and mic audio levels. I had to do this several times before I found a balance I was content with.

One last thing is that if you hear some high pitch interference coming from the 3.5 audio, you'll need a loop ground noise isolator. Here's the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

for the rear I switched it out withthese.
for the front
and
these adapters are great if you don't want to slice the cables.

also. you will need a spacer for the Rockford.

I would recommend the Polk Audio over the Rockford.

Edit: and they work with the stock head unit without an Amp. I am an amateur so I didn't want to replace the stock radio/dash .
and too lazy to add an amp.

Good luck!

I miss my 4runner like hell. I had the same exact year. The Couple tips I'll give are as follows.

1. Rear speakers are not very important due to low mounting
   
   
2. When you pull the factory woofers cut the speaker out of the frame. Then mount that to the door. Put the speaker in place and run long screws through the plastic to the metal. This will help with clearance issues and having to do extra work drilling and mdf rings.
   
   
3. get a very small amount of deadening for the front doors. The lows are much cleaner. A MUST WITH NO SUB!!
   
   
4. Amp them if at all possible.
   
   Enjoy your 4runner. I loved mine. And I will have another some day
   
   Amp: $60
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GN5K650/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465707141&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41GaE-RQw8L&ref=plSrch
   
   Components: $140
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5JPTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707295&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hertz+component&dpPl=1&dpID=51V1OG4m70L&ref=plSrch
   
   Or these for $150. These have rear Fill out on the crossovers which could benefit you as well.
   
   http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/sxp65a-diamond-audio-6-5-150w-rms-sxblack-series-convertible-component-speaker-system-aluminum-tweeters.html
   
   
   Rear speakers: $ 85
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5C1C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465707841&sr=8-2&pi=CB192198896_AA75_QL70&keywords=hertz+5.25
   
   
   
   Wiring kit: $23
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707977&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch
   
   
   I spent $307 very wisely. If you get a head unit from sonic electronics they give you the install kit. Some decent pioneer and Kenwood units are in 200 or so range allowing for a small order of sound deadening.
   
   I'd figure 250 to 350 for the radio making the total 557-657.
   
   30 is plenty to get some sound deadening. Making my total $587-687.
   
   Another option to help the speakers reach potential are the Mini amps you can install behind the dash. I really want to get you the sound quality you seek. But doing so effectively means a amp
   

Yes. It's android autos google maps based off your phone. They make google maps and spotify driver safe. But still both work fine for the basics. I come from the same background as you and I love this device. Play around with the MHL stuff too. And absolutely 100% get this

Whine is caused by the unfiltered impulse charger .. You need something based on a voltage regulator, these are rare (usually cheap chinese chargers) but it's easy to build one yourself. Docking station won't solve your problems if it's still using impulse charger (most likely). Alternatively you could use DC/DC converter ie. AimTec AM3N-0505S

Edit: just found dedicated car ground loop isolators: https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI worth a try if you don't mind this hanging from your AUX port ;)

Speakers:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370878816&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Amp:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67751_Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2.html

Radio w/ 3 sets of pre outs to make your life easier:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0073V1NP0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370879138&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Wiring:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1370879267&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

That Boss wire is more like 10awg than 8. Get this instead. Not their best, but at least you won't have to run a new power wire unless you have plans to eventually go over ~900w total (theoretically this wire can handle ~1000w).

Also, if you plan on eventually doing your rear speakers, you should just get the 4-ch version of that amp.

All in all, this'll be more expensive by ~$100. But it'll sound much better, you'll be making your life easier for future upgrades, and you won't have to buy and run new wiring unless you end up going with big power.

I use this in my Kia at the moment. Works great! Wish it has a forward/rewind part at times, but it plays pretty well otherwise.

Also get a noise isolator in case you want to charge things at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019393MV2&pd_rd_r=FEMXD2FB1M9W9FCTJXCW&pd_rd_w=KXZVR&pd_rd_wg=tSvLf&psc=1&refRID=FEMXD2FB1M9W9FCTJXCW

You want to get a d2 sub. That means it's dual voicecoil, 2ohms per coil. coils would be wired parallel for a 1 ohm final load. A 4 gauge amp wiring kit will be fine. I would spend the few extra dollars for a nice OFC (oxygen free copper) kit over a kit that uses CCA(copper clad aluminum) Here is a really good choice, has all you need http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344479367&sr=1-2&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

Because the Switch is technically charging while docked, and you have an auxiliary coming out if it, you will get that buzzing sound. Notice that when you undock it, the buzzing sound goes away.

It's the same thing that some people go through when charging their phones in a car at the same time they have an aux plugged in, they get the buzzing sound(only in certain cars).

Your best bet, if you don't mind paying, is to get a Ground Loop Noise Islolator. Here is one that I found. Unfortunately, your speaker needs to have an aux input or this will be useless to you :/. I'm looking to buy this later this week, as my monitor doesn't have speakers, but I do have speakers on my desk that have an aux input. Good Luck!!!

>So, it should look like this?

Yes.

>My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

The speakers should mute when the line out is used.

>Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

You shouldn't need that.

No offence but if you don't understand the wiring diagram maybe you should get someone to do it for you?

If you're determined to do it yourself maybe you just need a wiring harness kit like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-NN03B-Harness-1995-07-Standard/dp/B0007KPS0A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494895498&sr=8-2&keywords=nissan+350z+wiring+harness

It all depends on your setup. I don't know what plugs Joying comes with and whether or not you have a bose system in your car etc.

happy to say it fixed my issue :D thank you very much...though I am going to return this and buy one from amazon because this filter + 2 trs adapters cost 30 bucks (each adapter was 7$)

i can get this from amazon for 8 bucks and not even need any adapters cus it has 3.5mm female which i can put my dual 1/4 to 3.5mm in :)

should this also work?

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449259813&sr=8-1&keywords=ground+loop+filter

We're pretty close to AptX HD car adapters being a reality, so I'd say wait a bit. If you must have one now, there are quite a few regular AptX ones on the market. Just look for one that has a USB type A plug rather than a built in car charger plug. Much better to use your own charger in the car to get fast charge, more than 1 slot, etc.

Something like this. This specific ones comes with a 3 slot charger, which I guess is cool if you don't care about fast charging. My car has 2 power plugs so it'd be great for me and leave room to hook up a dashcam using one of the other slots on the charger, and use my other plug for my phone fast charger.

But still, always get a ground loop isolator. They're usually under $10 and completely eliminate electronic whine. Like this.

If you're spending that much for a brake bleed kit, get an electric vacuum pump for ease. under $50 USD

vacuum pump

12v adapter

wires

I threw this together with the first 12v adapter I could find on amazon. If you want the run to pump better with more vacuum, get an adapter that pushes more than 2 amps. I have a 5 amp adapter and the pump runs like a top.

I bought this 3.5mm isolator to work with my fucky setup, and it works wonderfully.

I do Switch -> HDMI -> Computer monitor without speakers -> audio out to external computer speakers -> Isolator -> Line in to PC -> usb to wireless headset.

It's great because if I pull the isolator out of the speakers, sound goes through the speakers. If I plug it in, sound (both PC and Switch) goes through the headset. Great for watching Netflix while grinding stuff in Fire Emblem Warriors!

I have an old Alpine MRP-M350 in my car. Paired with SWS-12D4.

First you have to pick your amp. But it also helps to know how many Amps your Alternator puts out. My alt puts out 150 amps, which is uncommonly high for a sedan. The reason for knowing your alternator is because if you have a weak alt, you will get headlight dimming very easily. No one likes headlight dimming.

After you know how many amps you have to work with off your alt. Then you get an amp. Something like this is pretty middle of the road:

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/alpine-500w-class-d-digital-mono-amplifier-with-low-pass-crossover-black/7551285.p?skuId=7551285

After you have you amp, you need a sub. Pick any dual voice coil sub. Dual four is good. When wired in parallel it makes it 2ohms.

https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1DVC_4-ohm_mono.jpg

Now you have sub and amp. TIme for wiring. You need a wiring kit.

https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=lp_3308787011_1_12?srs=3308787011&ie=UTF8&qid=1491479560&sr=8-12

You will want Oxygen Free Copper, not Copper Clad Aluminum. Pure copper is what you are after. Anything else is junk.

Now you have your parts. Amp. Sub. Fat ass wire (4 gauge).

Run the power wire from the battery to where ever you want your amp, most people put it in the trunk. Make sure you have the inline fuse holder close the battery, within 12 inches.

Next, from the back if your stereo, you are going to run two wires. A remote wire that leads to the amp. And pair of RCA cables also to the amp. Next you are going to run a ground to the amp. The ground is simple because most people just find a bare metal in the trunk and use that.

Then you hook the power wire to the power terminal on the amp. Then the remote wire to the remote terminal on the amp. Then plug in the RCAs into the amp also. Power wire gives the amp power, remote wire turns the amp on and off with your car so you dont drain the battery because its always on. The RCAS give the amp an audio signal. Lastly, you go back and install the fuse, in the in line fuse box near the battery. And now you have a complete circuit, and thus, a working amp.

I had the exact same issue. A PC and a few consoles, constantly having to plug headphones between them, it got annoying. I solved this issue with a simple sound mixer (less than 30 bucks on Amazon Germany, couldn't find it on Amazon US, but here's the exact model on Ebay). Four different devices just plug into the mixer and one output goes to my speaker, which in turn has my headphones and my bass cushion (it's a thing and it's amazing) plugged into it. Note that I had to use various adapters and converters, since this particular sound mixer uses 6.35mm mono audio jacks (two of them for each device), which I converted to RCA (use mono, not stereo adapters). PS2 and PS3 just connect directly via RCA with their analog cables, my Xbox One uses an HDMI audio extractor (powered by one of the console's USB ports) and a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and my PC the same kind of adapter, without the converter, of course.

The big advantage of this is that I don't have to switch between anything. All sound ends up in my headphones, without me having to do anything after the initial ten minute setup (which really just consisted of plugging everything in).

It is worth mentioning that with cheap sound mixers like the one I'm using there's likely going to be some humming and other noises, which my speakers thankfully filter out entirely before they reach my headphones. You may need an additional filter, which are however rather cheap. With my headphone directly plugged into the mixer, which I did just for testing, I also noticed that the general sound level was very low, which once again wasn't an issue anymore once I had plugged my speaker in between mixer and headphones.

good point, was planning on getting some thing like this if that is the case to help defuse.

always open for other suggestions tho... :)

That's good, at least.

Think you could get away with looping each ear's cable round a ferrite ring a couple of times and showing her something like this, with some pretty graphs showing how they can reduce EMF, and hope she misses the fact the EMF is generated in the buds themselves?

are you talking about plug and play leds like these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6NZ7D8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073ZDQ8BK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1

what brand did you use, and would you recommend it.




also ferrit beads like this?

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Pieces-Ferrite-Suppressor-Diameter/dp/B01E5E5IY4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527192099&sr=8-4&keywords=ferrite+beads&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011

A friend of mine talked to me about noise filters today. I honestly don't know if it works for a microphone but if you are willing to sacrifice a few dollars for a hopefully working fix then this little thing might help removing the noise from the microphone.

A shop that installs audio professionally will probably know more about electrical noise than a regular auto shop or mechanic by the way so if the shop who installed your radio doesn't know see if you can find a car audio shop in your area and ask them.

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ and then set up audio playback in your sound settings https://imgur.com/a/T0Qxbfo.

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable https://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/ and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

I don't have RDS, but I do have the JBL Synthesis system, that looks like this.

That said, I have some confusion with the wiring harness...

1. Do I NEED to pick up a JBL wiring harness just so that I can use the factory amp/sub?
   
2. Can I use the regular wiring harness like this one, or will I need to pick up another one?
   
   
   Thanks
   
   

Now I've not tried this myself but maybe this thread could help you

https://www.operator-1.com/index.php?p=/discussion/2319/op-1-noise-fix

Here is the product mentioned.
There are definitely other solutions to this problem too.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Or just search Ground Loop Noise Isolator to find similar

First of all, more PICTURES!


So I saw a couple of other posts and got inspired. Mainly this one and this one.


I used wire and LEDs from amazon. 3 LEDs on each side.


And visor plugs and screws from ebay.


I wired the lights up to the switch as shown in the 2 other posts, which was really easy to do.


Then I wired the lights up through the trim.


I drilled holes in the plugs to fit the lights and put it all back together.


The pictures show some before and after, but I didn't have any pictures from night. The difference is huge, I can actually see in my car at night.

Looks like a pretty straight forward swap. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmJwXa9Bkgc

A quick google search and I found the adapters needed to it's plug and play, but do you own verification.
Speaker Mount: https://www.amazon.com/Mosuch-Plastic-Speaker-Adapter-Highlander/dp/B007ZQGZWO
Wire harness: https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-8104-Speaker-Connector-Vehicles/dp/B0002BBP7Y

As for pro installers. I used to work for CarSpa like 15 years ago in Arlington. They were good back then, not sure about now. They used to do almost all the dealership installs around the area. The boss was a bit of a douche, Yelp agrees apparently.

You can get these at local stores for acoustics and electronic stores like RadioShack.

I guess you are from the US since you didn't mention another country - so, here is a Amazon.com link to some.

Newegg also has them.

If you are infact from Europe, visit http://gh.de/ .

Hope this helps! And keep on using Mumble! :)

vinyl player turntable.

Parts Express Subwoofer Kits

DIY 12" subwoofer recommendations and costs - AVS Forum

The V.B.S.S. DIY subwoofer design thread - AVS Forum and my favorite the VBSS End Table.

Better subwoofers than the boomy F12:

• 12" Polk Audio HTS 12 is on sale for $299. RCA input only so you would need a speaker wire to RCA line converter.
  
• 12" Bic Acoustech PL-200 II $299.
  
• Or better yet, look for a used SVS, HSU or Rythmik.

This is my build which I posted on Facebook a few days ago, before I add subwoofer, so far less than $500, I'm still building it ..

--

Tonight's window-shopping shopping cart for my first audio upgrade from 2016 WRX base OEM audio. Includes amp, speakers, and noise suppression. This seems like a really good starter build for less than $500. Looking for feedback.

DS18 SLC1800.4 DS18 Select SLC-1800.4 1,800 Watts Four (4) Channels Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDI0D3K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IDI0D3K&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=TLRSTER62FWVZ4YI

• affordable clean wattage
  
• 80 watts per channel matches customer recommendations for the Alpine speakers
  
  Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0059AK2T0&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=PXNDF7S6RPBZPEKP
  
  Rockford RFK4X 4 AWG Complete Amplifier Install Kit
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012BYOSK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012BYOSK&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=2GAGDGGKMRWMHURO
  
  Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=as_li_tl…
  
  50 Sq Ft Noico Self-adhesive Foil & Butyl Mat 50 Mil Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URR4O5I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00URR4O5I&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=Q7FJEOPI6QOBHJKL
  
  Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015WJH4ZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B015WJH4ZW&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=WNEQ67NXUPTXMY4T
  
  BAFX Products® - Decibel Meter / Sound Level Reader - W/ Battery
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECCZWWI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ECCZWWI&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=UV3UKNSI24GV7E3Q
  
  
• to measure the noise levels before and after installing the Noico mat
  
  Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for iPhone, iPad Tablet and Android
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ADR2B84&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=XCRDPQNFVK6NFAAN
  
  
• to calibrate the HU EQ after the amp and speakers are installed

Yeah it's coming from the speakers. I didn't turn the car on, i just had the radio on. I'd turn up the volume without any songs playing and it makes this loud frequency noise, then when I play the music I can still hear it faintly.

It sounds like this :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVwei9GcqwI

You think using something like this would help?
https://youtu.be/CrKQU-BoVZg?t=196
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541647353&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

You don't need to but a new set of headphones at all, you can buy an extension like this and plug it up to the back
Or you could try something like this which would allow you to stay connected in the front. It works by removing the ground which is causing all of the static.

Also here to say I'm having the same issue when using the aux cable in my car and Galaxy S7. (Just purchased 3/20)

I get static when using Maps, Google Music, and making calls (barely audible with all the static).

I have searched and come across some users recommending to go to Settings > Sounds and vibration > Sound quality and effects > [With an auxillary cable/headphone plugged in], switch UHQ upscaler from off > on. This surprisingly did the trick after I restarted I think. But now it is back to static and it's beginning to get annoying.

If you find a fix please update!

Update: Just wanted to drop by and say that I was able to fix the issue (as it stands anyhow). Taking the advice of a fellow redditor in this thread, I purchased this device and the static has ceased. Should I/you have to purchase something like this to make our brand new $600+ phone function normally? Probably not, but so far this has fixed my issue and I hope it can help someone else out there experiencing similar issues.

I don’t know much about console because I’m mostly a PC gamer but I would try the following things:

1. Get a high quality HDMI cable or just a different one and see if you still have issues.
   
   
2. Use the headphone jack on the console and split the audio — one to your PC and one to your headphones. If you use this method you might need a DAC to amplify the signal before the split. I’ve also found the line splitter sometimes cause noise so you can get a ground loop eliminator.
   
   I would have suggested you switch from on board sound or update your sound drivers but your on a console.
   
   Here’s the splitters, cables, and ground loop eliminator I use:
   
   Splitter - KabelDirekt Pro Series Y Stereo Splitter - 1 x 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female - Y Cable Splitter Produces Equal Audio Output for Headphones, Earphones, and Speakers (0.5ft, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GN76HAG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fWcxCbK4KWTBN
   
   3.5 to 3.5 - KabelDirekt Pro Series 10 feet ... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DI88X32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   GL Eliminator - PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAQTRI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   This setup works for me because I use a sound blaster AE5 and the headphone jack already has an amp in it.
   
   You might try something like this:
   
   Behringer Microamp HA400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t0cxCbPH562B6
   
   So hook up from headphone console output to 4 channel stereo amp input. Then. One out cable to headphone and the other cable to LINE IN on PC and then separate the audio from elgato in OBS
   
   

• good luck, let me know if you have any questions. I’m not a super expert but was able to self resolve most of my audio issues. In my case the skipping was because my PC built in audio sucked and once I switched to a sound blast AE-5 my issues started to disappear. I know that’s not possible on console :/

Since no one knew, and Im hoping someone else who is in the same position as me, this will solve it for them. Astro TR mixamp works to control volume, or you can buy a cheapy audio hub like this from Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T5BG7YK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

When I plugged the aux cord from line in to the mixamp, was getting a buzzing noise. So you NEED a ground loop, like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EAQTRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Set the audio hub or the TR mixamp as the default communications device in Windows, and now you can control incoming voice chat from Discord or whatever else. Keep in mind the G6 volume in through windows. So if you turn it up or down, voice chat will also increase or decrease. Hopefully someone else finds this helpful!

I recommend one of these. They work great and let you control the music tracks, podcasts, audiobooks from the controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-T2GzbVJHKWSM

And you might need of these if you get a little bit of feedback like me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gV2Gzb37VFTSN

KCA is Knu's code for copper clad aluminum which is aluminum wire with a thin copper coating. Kolossus Flex is OFC, oxygen free copper, and is good for 150A at 4ga. Pure copper is a MUCH better conductor than aluminum.

Yep, I have a nifty $20 Bluetooth adapter for my old car and it works very very well. My phone always connects as soon as I turn on the car. I do recommend getting the anti-feedback ground loop noise isolator thingy if you're using an aux port, though.

W304-Fs or W254-Fs. They are free air woofers. 4 ohm SVC. You need to figure out which one it is based on the diameter, then you'll have your power rating. I'd also get a multimeter to make sure they are not blown. They don't handle much power. One of these, with gain properly set should work, so you have some spare power if you ever were to switch them. I'd suggest this wiring kit.

This is what I'd do on that budget.

Sub: Dayton Titanic 12 $190

Box $57

Amp $166

Wiring Kit $50

Total: $463

With the little extra remaining I'd get a sound deadening kit for your trunk. You could also save money on the wiring if you never plan to upgrade in the future, but I typically like to go overkill on my amp and wiring the first time so future upgrades are a simple plug and play without having to run new wiring.

I'm getting a lot of static coming from my speakers. Too much to enjoy any music.

It's only happening when my preamp (Music Hall Mini) is plugged in (and turned on).

I'm using a U-Turn Orbit Plus as my record player.

Does anyone have any suggestion for how to eliminate the static?

I tried plugging in an Aux>RCA cable in to a ground loop isolator that I have, but the only thing it did was reduce the gain/maximum volume level. It did not help reduce the static.

The basic setup I'm working with is Turntable>RCA/RCA>Preamp>RCA/RCA>Speakers

I have no idea what I'm doing so any suggestions would be much appreciated - thanks!!

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

Car Audio Newb

I bought a used Skar ZVX-8 dual 2 ohm 900 rms sub in a box and its currently wired to 1 ohm. I plan on getting an Audiopipe APCL-1001D as my amp (getting a good deal in it). Specs say it should do 1000 watt rms at 1 ohm, or 600 rms at 2 ohm.

My questions are, should I run it at 1 ohm or rewire the sub for 2 ohms? And as far as an amp wiring kit, would this be a good option, or should I just build my own kit with welding cable? Trying to be as cost efficient as possible.

Car Charger, Maxboost 4.8A/24W 2 USB Smart Port Charger [Black] $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISGCAJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) $9.69

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bluetooth Adapter Receiver,URANT Car Kit Mini USB Wireless Audio Adapter Bluetooth Music Receiver & Adapter Home/Car Phone iPhone Stereo Speakers Headphones Car (AUX in) Music Sound System $10.97

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFWM8G9/ref=dp_prsubs_1

​

had this set up for years until I got a car that had a bluetooth stereo. quality was pretty good all things considered - the ground loop Isolator helped tremendously.

The easiest and cheapest route would be to buy this rockford fosgate loaded enclosure and just wire it into the rear speakers.

Although, this may not be much an improvement on the premium system. So if you're craving a little more oomph, you would have to go this route:

Get an amp with high level inputs like this precision power. Wire it with a nice 4 awg amp kit and splice the high level to the rear speakers. After you have the amp installed, the possibilities for subs are pretty much endless. You could run something like this SA 12 and either make a box for it or put it in this prefab.

Amp: $120

Amp Kit: $30

Sub: $200

Box: $45
____
total: $495

After shipping and taxes it all might be over 500, but this would definitely scratch your itch for bass.

You can get a chinese radio for $30 but if you plan to keep using your car for some time it would be better to go up one notch and put something like the Pioneer FH-X720BT, i know CDs are in extinction but for a little price difference you still have the option.
You need to get the mounting kit, and the wiring harness. Installing it is not that hard, if you can splice some wires you're set, the wires in the radio harness and in the adapter are color coded so you just need to match them.

I think I'm going to go with the P3D4-12 you linked me to and this box, and either this amp or this amp (which would you recommend?) with this wiring. My question is, is there a bass control knob that pairs specifically with the amp? Also, would you recommend running it at 2 ohms or 4 ohms? This looks like a good sub-amp combo, but I just want to make sure I'm doing everything right before purchasing.

Is this the harness adapter you're referring to? Sorry I'm new to all of this (I paid bestbuy to have all of my stuff put in originally) so I have a couple more questions.

Will that mini amplifier power all 4 speakers? I only see a L and R so my assumption is that it'll only work for 2 speakers. Also, how do I power the amp? Is that what the remaining wires coming out of the adapter that aren't for the speakers are for? Lastly, is attaching the wires to the amp as easy as stripping the wire and twisting it around the pins? Thank you again for your help.

I'm pretty sure they flog you here if you suggest anything other than Knukonceptz.

Cheaper kit :
http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381424122&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

Better grade OFC kit : http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Kolossus-Gauge-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B005CIJBKK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381424140&sr=8-2&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge+ofc

mystery edit mofos.

Here ya go....Sundown E series 15 $165

Pioneer amp $170

box $150

wiring kit $ 60

Around $550 for everything, but you could easily knock off $100 of that just by building your own box. or still save some by finding someone on craigslist that builds boxes(every craigslist has 1 or 2)

I recommend NOT using GameCapture to stream. As usual, the tier list goes:

I'm Just Getting Started: OBS Studio
I Want To Do Better: XSplit Personal
Time To Get Serious: Gameshow
Professional: XSplit Premium, Wirecast

XSplit will let you choose to play the audio from the xbox through your PC's main audio output.

Of course, the best way to do this is to route the audio output from your Xbox through the Aux input of an Astro Mixamp, remembering that if they're connected to the same power source you should use a $10 Ground Loop Isolator to avoid a mild buzzing sound. But don't worry, that's just for you and it doesn't come through to the stream.

I'm going to do a 2016 wrapup article detailing all this soon.

Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!

so i'm looking at buying these bulbs, these connectors and this wire. altogether it'll be around $20, but i'll only need some of this stuff for each.

i'm trying to decide if it is worth buying the extra connectors and wire or if i should just buy this pair of connectors with wire already soldered on and the bulbs and save myself $10.

You could try clipping a ferrite core to the ends of the cable, it should help remove excess RF interference.

Although, you'd probably have better luck switching to Composite A/V cables (if possible).

Here buy this: http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426718853&sr=8-1&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge

Make sure the power wire from the positive battery is fused within a foot or two of the battery. Secondly, make sure the ground or negative is to a bolt that has the paint sanded off. With the car running, check the voltage between the two points and make sure it reads around 14.3 volts to be sure you have a decent connection. Finally the thing that stores power is called a capacitor. It has it's place in certain areas of car audio, but you don't have to worry about it at this point and would advise against spending the money on one. Youtube has plenty of videos on how to properly crimp/solder your wire, as well as hook up amps, subs, etc.

OP, help out your future self and do this all at once. Replace your speakers, wire in your amplifier all in the same weekend. Make sure to use 4gauge for your power wire in case you want to add a sub in the future. Your budget is a little tight, don't ignore the cost of good quality cables (I just installed these this past weekend).

It sounds like a ground loop. Does the buzzing/whine get louder as you turn up the volume?

If so, there are a few solutions:

1. Make sure the PC is properly grounded to the outlet. If you are using a surge protector, make sure the "GROUNDED" light is on (or the "NOT GROUNDED" light is off, depending on the model of surge protector).
   
2. Make sure the outlet is properly grounded. There are two ways to determine this. If you have a multimeter, just set the multimeter for 120V read, stick the black probe into the actual prong for the outlet and the red into the ground on the outlet. If the multimeter reads 120V, you're grounded. The other way involves removing the actual outlet from the wall and I won't give the directions for that since I'm not an electrician and I don't want you to die if you screw up.
   
3. Make sure the motherboard is properly grounded. Since you built the PC yourself, double check to see that you only installed the necessary standoffs and that you didn't miss any or add any extra ones.
   
   If none of the above options worked, you'll need to purchase a Ground Loop Isolator. Cheap and they work extremely well.

Most case manufactureres skimp out a bit on the front panel wiring. There are old forum posts from the Windows XP era about custom fixes, which, like you mentioned, involves foil. Rear audio panel is usually not [as] susceptible to electrical interference, though.
Edit- some ppl say that ferrite beads or a ferrite core should help reduce EMI

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_cmu_pg_t

Cheaper and Better than anything you will find on Amazon :D

Original credit to /u/magic8ball88

Sounds like a ground loop; I had a similar issue daisy-chaining some Astro Mixamps. Put something like this between your 3.5mm cable and your PC: PAC SNI-1/3.5 3.5-mm Ground Loop Noise Isolator

Best of luck -- unwanted noise is terrible!

Use an IEC splitter cable with a clip-on ferrite. The IEC splitter allows you to neatly wire up all of your power supplies from a single cable. You can fix it in place on your pedalboard, so you'll only need to plug in a single power cable to run all of your Pedal Power units. The ferrite will help dissipate RF interference coming from the mains wiring.

While you're at it, get yourself an outlet tester and a GFCI - it could save your life.

I have lot's of issues with EMI too, as you can probably tell. I do a lot of twitch streaming and I have 3 of these ground loop isolators in my system to eliminate that hum. I don't know how they work, but they definitely take care of that hum.

This is my streaming setup diagram. I have a ground look isolator in between my casting PC and the mixer, between my PS4's optical audio converter and the mixer, and between my mixer and my main computer's audio input. It completely silences any hum caused by EMI.

Yep, I have an idea if you're willing to spend $8 to rule it out.

You need to purchase a Ground Loop Noise Isolator which you can then try with each of your various devices.

If none of them exhibit static at that point, then you've determined that indeed there is some faulty grounding or shielding in the components of the phone. At that point it's time for a return to Google if you can under warranty.

If you don't have static with the one pair of headphones that tells me the components are solid in that pair. The other components may be the weak link but you need to rule out the phone first.

The ground loop noise isolator also has self evident uses wherever else you may have this problem. I use one in my car for example.

Good luck.

How are your power cords arranged? Is there anything overlapping? Sounds like some sort of interference. Not other turntables to test with?

Before sending it back for another out of warranty repair, you may want to try a ferrite ring or two. Amazon has them pretty cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015RAZTIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_d0TYzbRYCKEEJ

as /u/pocketspoon has mentioned this subreddit is more headphone equipment.

However what you may want to look into a filter for your modmic. You could pick up something like an audio interface or a mixer to help assist with controlling gain and reducing electronic feed back but that can be fairly expensive.

I would a try a ground filter like this first.

no worries. I will say that this "issue" made me rethink my approach and I ended up routing all my outputs (via 3.5mm outs and 1 optical audio out) with voicemeeter and hooked them up to the streaming PC individually and was able to assign all audio as separate sources (discord, game & my mic) and it made for easier on the fly adjustments on streamlabs.

Good luck! if you do need the noise loop isolator, I bought 2 of these and they worked flawlessly. I'd try without it first as maybe you'll get lucky and your line-in to line-out (pc to pc) might not have any noise issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Speaker Amp $145

Save a little with this Knukonceptz wiring kit $50

Sub amp $150

Puts your total at $620. You may be able to find a cheaper speaker amp, I'm just a fan of Alpine, and I love mine!

I never tried to play music with an SD card. I do have a bypass installed. I know with the 4200 there is a different bypass module that you need. Did you make sure you got the right one?

Edit. This is the one I have MicroBypass Parking Brake Switch Fully Automatic Video in Motion Interface for Pioneer AVH-4100NEX AVH-4200NEX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VKQ6ECQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6IlgAbHPR7ZVZ

Edit : nevermind didn't see that you already linked it lol

Which cables have you tried? Did you use any on the list on the pioneer website? Have you tried enabling USB debugging like some forums say?

So my new motherboard has some electrical interference in the rear audio ports only. It’s minor and it happens when I move mouse and the windows around.

Anyway I already went through hours of troubleshooting, I was wondering if something like this would help.

If not, is the “creative sound blaster audigy FX” a decent sound card? It’s a bit more than I want to spend but I just want to make sure this’ll do the job for music, gaming, movies etc.

I have sennheiser hd 280 pro if it matters.

I have JBL305s which I use straight from my computer with a line isolator. The one I have is something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=line+isolator&qid=1574190220&sr=8-1

A DAC would give me a physical volume control which would be handy sometimes - but I dont know that it would give me any better sound quality. It's basically processing the sound in the same way that your computer is already doing, but with the advantage of doing it externally from your computer and away from all the other electrical parts inside the computer that might interfere with it.

A decent DAC is $100+. So personally I would just try the speakers first, then see if you need a line isolator, then see you if need a DAC.

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

Sometimes you can clean that up with a magnet around the aux plug, but your best bet is a ground loop isolator.

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-3-5-3-5-mm-Isolator/dp/B001EAQTRI

I do hear a difference between PC and AMP/DAC. Not a massive one, but still. Bigger issue is volume. Even at max volume levels everywhere X2's still sound pretty quiet for me.

​

I'm not sure what is this good for exactly, but what about this thing called Ground Loop Noise Isolator? https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Is this something that can help here?