(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car audio & video

Okay everybody, sit down. Class has started. Getting into car audio can be the most intimidating thing to start. So many brands, power ratings, trying to find a compatible amp. On top of that, a lot of companies lie about there power ratings. Ok so lets start with subwoofers. When looking on amazon you will see a lot of subwoofers claiming RMS and max power. RMS is the rated watts that a subwoofer can handle. Max power rating is just a fake number companies will make to make there product sound better than it is. ( Heres an example Pyle PLPW10D 10-Inch 1000 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JV7CRC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nixzybQY8YTXY ) notice how 1000 watts is in the title. If you put 1000 watts rms on that sub it wont last one min. Its rms rating says 500 watts rms. Now that subwoofer linked above is a pyle of crap. Stay away from these brands (Pyle, Planet Audio, Boss not to be confused with Bose) these are better choices ( Rockford, Pioneer, Kicker, Alpine) balls to the walls best choice ( Skar Audio, Sundown Audio) there are tons of brands but those are most common. A good rule of thumb is looking at the size of the magnet. The bigger the magnet the more power it can handle and usually better quality. (Example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVZDW00/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DvxzybSARDNC5 ) long story short is you get what you pay for. 30$ 500 watt sub looks to good to be true because it is. Build quality is junk and its going to sound like crap. Now if you want a good thump. I recommend staying in the 300-500 watts rms range. It wont kill the budget and you can get some decent bass. Anything higher than that, you will start to get into the car rattling range. Now back to subwoofer specs, you will see different types of ohms and voice coil configurations on subwoofers. Ohms is resistance. Lower the ohm=easier power flow, so more power can be delivered easier. Now voice coil config can get confusing. There can be one of two options on a subwoofer, single voice coil And dual voice coil. A SVC is simply one positive and one negative terminal on a subwoofer. When you have a DVC you have two positive and two negative terminals. Now the reasoning for this is with a DVC sub you can change the ohm rating on the sub itself with different wiring configurations. You can change a dual 2 ohm subwoofer to 1 ohm wiring in parallel ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/1-DVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) thats one example, you can raise, lower or keep it at original ohm. See with a single voice coil sub, you cant change the ohms because there are only one set of positive and negative terminals BUT you can use an identical sub and use its set of terminals to change the ohms of both subs ( http://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2-SVC-2-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg ) now the whole reasoning for this is because at different ohm ratings, you will get a different output on your amp. (Remember lower ohm= higher power) so heres an example ( i'm making these numbers up btw) a amp could have these listed... 8 ohm 50 watts, 4ohm 100 watts , 2ohm 200 watts, 1ohm 400 watts. Now lets say you have a dual 4 ohm 200 watt sub. You would want to wire it in parallel to change the ohms to 2 and then you will get 200 watts, which is what my fake sub was rated for. Now if you have the same sub but was a single voice coil, that wouldn't be the best amp for that sub. It would only receive 100 watts when its rated for 200. So it would be recommended to find a more compatible amp. I shouldn't have to say this but you obviously want to match watts rms with your subwoofer and amp. They say to stay in 80% - 125% of rated power of the sub. So that pretty much means if your sub is 350 watts, and you have the ohm configed to deliver 400 watts then thats fine. If its a good brand and has good build quality you can push it farther than its rated for. Like sundown audio subwoofer can be pushed 300 watts more than rated and run perfectly fine. You will know when your pushing your sub two hard. It will either make a clunk meaning it bottomed out. (It moved in or out to far) or you will smell something burning. Thats your voice coil starting to heat up. If that was to happen, turn down the bass and let it cool and adjust bass level. Now lets talk about good amplifiers, there probably going to be the most expensive item in car audio. Rule of thumb for amps is to not be cheap and don't fall for all the eye candy. The bigger and heavier the amp, the more believable the power rating is. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00011KLXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eIyzybKGRQYJV ) something that small is no way going to output "3000" watts, you probably wouldn't get more than 500 watts. Alot of cheapo brands will put lights and crazy colors to try and attract you to there products. Thats usually a sign of junk. Make sure you look at rms power and reviews will usually say if it was a good buy. Companies like boss will even lie about rms. Now subwoofer amps are called class D amplifiers. There usually two channel or mono block meaning how many terminals there will be on the amp. You can use a multi channel amp on one sub if its strong enough. Also if your planning on wiring your sub to one ohm, make sure the amp is stable to run at one ohm. There is also bridging. When you take one positive of one channel and one negative of the other channel of the amp. So it combines the power of both channels. Amp needs to be compatible to do that. I recommend getting an amp with a bass knob but any decent brand should have one included. A good method of finding true rms of an amp is adding up fuse ratting and multiplying it by voltage. So my amp claims 1500 watts. It has no fuse but has an inline fuse by the battery ratted for 100 amps 100x12=1200 watts. 12 being average voltage, that number can fluctuate to 13.5. My amp is actually compatible up to 16 volts. 100x16=1600 watts, Most amps being only 80-90% efficient = 1500 watts. Also get a decent amp kit, if you get cheap junk, you can choke your amp. If the cables going from the battery to the amp are two small your amp can short out. And for the box, build one. Many sub manufacturers will have a recommendation for there sub, and have all the dimensions listed. If thats not your thing then you can buy one but they can be expensive. I recommend a ported box over sealed. I think thats about everything....if you have any questions, i'm here to help. Don't get discouraged, if you take the time to do it right, your 400 watts system will sound better than your buddies 3000 watt system.

I forgot to mention this but its better to over power then to under power your subwoofer. If your amp is 300 watts and your sub wants 500 then your going to have a number of problems. Your amp will produce alot of distortion and it will be under alot of stress. It will also get hot enough to cook on. Not only that but it will also damage your sub. Think about like this, your sub if built to move farther than the amp is capable of pushing it. This causes clipping and you will get loud popping sounds from your sub.


Also "professional" installers may not be the most trustworthy guys out there. Not saying there all bad but if you show them that you don't know much, they may try to sell you the junk i told you to stay away from at a premium price. The installation really isn't that difficult. Do a some research and it will only take a few hours at most

if you don't care about power ratings and just want bluetooth/usb, Amazon has a Boss radio they sell for $22 with instant coupon Partner this with a $4 wiring kit and you have bluetooth/usb jams for under $30.

Im sure I will get some audio guys downvoting me for recommending an off brand radio, but after using some of Boss' stuff, I can say its hand on heart a decent alternative to the big guys, they sound pretty good and the cost is really low.

Boss even has a couple of decent double din touch screens for under $100, or if you want to go super cheap, Amazon Prime days has a few of the off brand Chinese double dins for under $50 that get extremely good reviews, and typically have the benefit of being able to mirror your smart phone screen and/or play movies. I currently have this guy in my Honda Civic, and it powers the factory speakers better than the original radio, plus it supports Apple Car play, which $160 is a killer deal to be able to modernize any older car with this feature.

Thanks for the reply. that sucks about the budget, a lot of others found setups that were well within my constraints.

> First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

>Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard >pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

>Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head >off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

>So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

> Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68

> You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4

> Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62

> Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109

> Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103

> Amp kit. ~ $33

>And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)

>Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

and

>Oh I can answer this one easy. My first truck was Ranger.
>You can easily get a nice sound system going for cheap. Check out Crutchfield for getting equipment. They make >it dead simple to install most components.
>I recommend getting a CD player.head unit that has bluetooth and usb inputs. You can get a pioneer or kenwood for cheap. Or spend a little more for an Alpine.
>Replace the stock speakers with stock sized aftermarket ones. You don't even have to spend a lot of money. Honestly, you could get away with spending less than >$250 on the whole set up.
>You will have a solid system at this point. You can then research adding a sub for the bass.

>Here is some that fit your truck;

>Head Unit

>Door SPeakers

>Additional Rear Speakers - these will need boxes since there is no spot for installation.


>Total of about $220.

I'm sure there can be good setups found for my budget?

I've been thinking about buying a pair of semi quality headphones for a while now. The DT770 seems like the best choice for it's price but I'm very new to all of this so I don't really understand most of this stuff.

Budget: Around 250€, but for a good reason I can up it a bit.

Source: PC only. Probably.

Isolation: I'll use them solely at home so not too necessary. Though it would be great if it blocked out my roommates voice(from the next room) if we're in the same voice chat.

Type: Full-size.

Balance: A bit of bass is alright but I'd like them balanced.

Past headphones: Some cheap <50€ stuff..

Preferred Music: Any and everything.

So unless you guys have so brilliant ideas I think I'm going with the DT770, but I'd need some advice with the amplifiers. A friend of mine suggested the FiiO E07K but since I'll almost definitely will use it only on my desktop would something like E09K be a better choice? Like I said, I'm fucking clueless when it comes down to these so all help is appreciated.

Links for clarity:

E07K

E09K

Or both?

Thanks in advance.

This amp performed really well on the amp dyno. It a Chinese board, a lot of people don't like messing with Chinese but I feel like I could give this amp a choice.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009NLL68C/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378079&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=soundstream+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=31pytKGMJsL&ref=plSrch
This amp is a Korean board which is typically the more reliable and reputable option. Skar has had customer service issues in the past, but it's in the distant past and I don't really think they issues are relevant anymore. Worth noting this amp did a little underrated on the amp dyno but it will be plenty for your subs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TKE7APU/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378238&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Skar+audio+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41IfkL4-AuL&ref=plSrch
A lot of people are recommending this amp, it's worth noting there is no subsonic filter. Idk where it's board is from, seems Chinese but I could be wrong. Im sure it's a good amp.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLFM596/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378383&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pioneer+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=51YozvhmIYL&ref=plSrch
This amp is also recommended regularly on here. It is a Chinese board, actually it is the same board as the soundstream amp. I recommended up top. This amp seems solid and people. Like it. Great price point.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005KW10ES/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494378510&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ppi+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41xpN3VUPGL&ref=plSrch


The Sundown amp that they priced you is a great amp, better than all of these, but for me bot worth the price difference. These all do plenty of power for your subs, and some you might even have to back off a tiny bit. If you want a warranty, you don't want to get it off amazon. Find them online from certified dealers. I know for the Skar amp you can buy it just as cheap right from the Skar Internet site. The other can be found on down 4 sound or woofers ect

I'm not sure if Frys sells it or not but I'd say to go with the BOSS R1100M amp. This subreddit will disapprove of it but it's $55 and will do what you want it to. Here it is on Amazon. I don't think you can do any better in that price range. Be careful not to blow the sub you get with it though. (If you get something rated lower) If you go with the pioneer, you're looking at $110 + $55 + $15 for wiring. Grand total of $180 for your subwoofer. You still have 120-170 left for a head unit so you should be able to get something nice. I would just try to save as much as I can on the stereo though & just put the money towards another mod/maintenance on your car. I'm guessing your plan is to just have your passenger to just put their feet on top of the subwoofer box? This could be risky (damaging it) but you don't know until you try it.

Here's another option for a compact sub if you want to save more money. I've heard good things about skar audio so maybe it's worth a try.

Skar audio sub 12" 2ohm

It's also 2ohm vs 4 on the pioneer so it'll be more efficient. There's a 10" version if you prefer that for $10 less.

I personally like the SPR-60C set from Alpine, about $150 and I think the Pioneer digital amp line is an outstanding value. The GM-D1004 looks like a great match with power to spare for only $100 street. It's twice as powerful as the Alpine power pack for the same money or less.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GMD1004-45X4-Compact-Class/dp/B00O8B7BXQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417587005&sr=1-2&keywords=gm-d1004#productDetails

I use a similar setup, with my amp being pretty much the same except older and without the slick form factor. Feeding 200W RMS into each side gives me the ability to extract all the speakers are capable of delivering, which is sufficient for even top down at highway speeds and a reasonable amount of bass for the speaker size without a sub. The extra power gives you options. You can get pretty bassy if you're not cranking it, or you can get pretty loud with less bass. You're not lacking on the power to do so, only the physical limitations of the speaker. You will not be disappointed for $250 combined!

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R250X1-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HX8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462994649&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+r250

This amp

That sib in the enclosure should work, but double check your behind the seats measurements.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-KCA-Complete-Gauge-Installation/dp/B0050I6KII

This wiring kit should work, you might have to trim it a bit and/or cut the length slightly to fit in your truck, but all that means is you can use ask that extra wire to do a big three! Menards sells some dope ass 8/6/4/2/0 terminals, they're silver and like five bucks for 2 but they are amazing. You can crimp them on with a bolt cutter (be gentle) and back fill with solder (electrical, not plumbing) to make secure connections. It's copper clad aluminum, so it poetically won't work well to upgrade to, say, 1000 watts, but for 300/500 it'll work.

Head unit is good.

I'm sure you did the research on the harness, but did you get a dash kit? You'll probably find it around the place you got the harness.

Same thing with door spekkers. Disconnect the rear pair though, you'll have better staging just using the front anyhow. In the future, you may wish to amp them, but for now they should be okay. Skip the kick panels, your probably not going to care much about the extra noise.

http://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Knoise-Kolossus-Deadener-100Mil/dp/B009KXF9MW

This sound deadener could make up for any missing volume I'm sure, but you probably won't need 30 sq ft, you might try they're 14 sq ft door kit. Make sure you clean the surfaces with alcohol and lint free towels first before applying it.

You could just skip that last one though, probably not worth it. .. but the Option is there.

So, in conclusion, measure, double check, triple check, then order.

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

First, make sure to check all your resources before popping over to your local sound shop and letting them convince you to buy some overpriced shit.

Amazon and Ebay are your friends! Use crutchfield and sonicelectronix for info and standard pricing, then check Amazon/Ebay for the BIG discounts. Tell crutchfield or Amazon what you're driving and they'll give you a list of parts that fit.

Second, even with only listening to rock music, trust me you will want a small subwoofer to fill out your system. Nothing major, it doesn't have to blow your head off or anything. Just adds a little low end to balance out your sound.

So, if I were to build a decent budget system for your Ranger, this is what I'd do:

• Head unit (radio). Alpine, Pioneer, Kenwood, JVC are really the only brands I would consider. Here's a decent Pioneer for the money. ~ $68
  
  
• You'll also need a wiring harness for your aftermarket radio to work in your truck. Not a big deal. ~ $4
  
  
• Okay, speaker time. Crutchfield says your truck has 5 1/4" in the doors, 6 1/2" in the kick panels and some random speaker behind the seat. For our purposes, let's say you just disconnect the rear speaker as it will be completely unnecessary. Here are some Rockfords for the doors that won't break the bank. ~ $62 / And here's some 6 1/2" Alpines for the kick panels ~ $62
  
  
• Subwoofer. Okay, now you may reach this point and say, "You know, I'll be fine with just this! Listen to how much better it sounds!" Trust all of us, a woofer is a good investment. For your purposes, I've tried to leave some wiggle room as far as budget goes to allow for a decent sub, box, amp and amp kit. A lot of these people will say build your own box, and if you're handy and would like to try, then go for it! I'm just not as averse to prefab as most people around here, so I say just find a decent prefab wedge box that will fit behind your seat. A little browsing and Bam! box and woofer. That's perfect for you. ~ $109
  
  
• Amplifier. You don't need anything crazy. Keeping with the Rockford theme, here's a decent 250w amp for that sub. ~ $103
  
  
• Amp kit. ~ $33
  
  And the grand total is: ~ $441 ($196 without the stuff for the subwoofer)
  
  Now, obviously you can play around with the pieces of this system for preference and price, but this was just what I could throw together in 20 minutes or so. Research, research, research. Half of this game is finding parts you like and reading/forming opinions about brands, etc. Hope I helped.

A pair of these Pioneer Slim Prefab Subs and one Pioneer GM d9601 would cost about $475 with all the install wires.

Alternately a single prefab 12 & Pioneer GM d8601 would run maybe $275 or less with installation wires.

Another option is a prefab sealed box ($20-50) and a shallow woofer like the Sundown or Dayton UM. With a sealed box, I'd recommend two subs. I rock a single 12" Dayton UM in a small sealed and it sounds awesome, but it's not quite loud enough for some songs, and two sealed or a larger ported box would be ideal for a sub like this or the Sundown.

You mentioned $200, not sure what you meant. A good ported box could run over $200, as does a nice woofer. Dayton UM subs are good and under $200, but I'd recommend a ported box or TWO sealed boxes, plus the 12" models are sold out 'til May.

Do not use a standard LOC for the new civic. The EX head unit has a hidden EQ thats non-djustable and greatly reduces bass output before the signal is output to the speakers. Grab an AudioControl LC2i and use that to tap into the FRONT speakers, as they have a higher bass signal than the rears. The LC2i has a bass correction function, allowowing you to bring the bass frequencies back in line with the rest of the spectrum. The unit is also a powered unit with its own power and ground, giving 7+ volts of signal output vs the 0.5v from a nornal LOC, which will result in a cleaner signal with less noise.

The radio removal is simple. On each side of the radio/center console, there is a trim piece that simple pops off. Start at the rear/bottom (near gear selector) and pop them up. From there, the climate control area pops straight out. Once that's out, you'll see two 8mm bolts underneath the radio which is holding the screen in. Remove them, then pop the screen off, its held on by two pressure clips on the top corners once you have removed the two previously mentioned 8mm bolts. You can then tap into the front left and right door speakers with some quick splices (as in don't cut the lines, just tap into them. You want to keep your front speakers working), and tie them into the LC2i. Tap into the cigarette lighter's power line right there in front for power to the LC2i, since it only received power when the cars switch is on and won't cause your battery to drain. You can either run your audio signal and power to the LC2i to the trunk using 9-wire (google it, its a sleaved line with 9 separate insulated wires in it), or mount the LC2i in the dash somewhere. Either way, ground the LC2i to a clean metal point once youve decided where to install it. From there, run your RCA cables from the LC2i's sub output (not "Main") to your amp. Adjust the AccuBass setting to bring bass back into the signal, then your amps gain to the loudness you like. You'll want to take your time on this part so you dont have muddy bass, or dirty boomy bass. Make it sound clean and tight first with the AccuBass adjustment first, then feel free to make the sub as loud as you like using the amp Gain. Also, the LC2i has its own remote sigbal output that you can send to your amps remote turn on, so youre not having to run an extra wire.

• AudioControl LC2i
  
• 2016 Civic EX/EX-T Touchscreen Radio removal
  
• "9 Wire"
  
  Hope this helps. Take your time, be careful when removing any panels, make it looks good. Don't use electrical tape.

depends on the 15s, some like a lot of air, most of the ones I've seen(including CompS) want a minimum of 3'. My single 15 has a bit over 4 to itself. Also a box like that is the same as buying or building 2 seperate boxes since they use a single port for each side and not a shared port. Like these look ok for singles. I like the separate boxes because you can move them around and if you need just a little trunk space you can remove one and still keep a little bass. in a previous car I had them like this and loved the convenience, and also miss having at least a little trunk compare to this lol. Also my box and sub weigh over 100lbs which is a PITA to get in and out of the trunk by myself.

I tend to go a bit of overkill on amps because it's better for the sub to be overpowered than it is to be underpowered. It's easy to hear when subs are bottoming out, but not so easy to hear when an amp is clipping. I'd probably stick with the MB Quart amp and if you have self control go with the comps, or save another $100 and go with this fosgate box which is 1Ω final and 1200w would make it very happy. Also 1200w is a lot easier on your car's electrical system than 2000(120A vs 200A). Lots of tough decisions, it depends more on what you're looking for. A pair of the MBQuart dual 4Ω Subs with the quart amp would go well together as well, but between the quarts and Fosgate P3s, I'd choose the P3s and they are about the same price. I'm a little biased, but for $140 each you can't go wrong with these. Here's a vid of my old 15" version of the same sub with a little over 500w going to it. My RE 15(same 600w rating) lived about 3 years with about 500w(MRP-M500 with 590w birth sheet) then went for about 4 months on my M110(1300w+ birth sheet) and didn't die until I intentionally tried to destroy it the day my Fi came. In the $200 each range I'd say Sundown SAs, in the $300 range, I love my Fi.

First polyfil (pillow stuffing) the sound bar. Can be found in any sewing/craft section or store and is cheap. Do not pack too dense. You unscrew the speakers and stuff the fill on the space behind them. This will give more depth to your sound.

Kicker makes a direct fit replacement for you. I went with an Infiniti setup, they fit, but I had to add my own mounting holes. It is easy, but, direct fit is easier.
You can always spend more but these will get you in the door.

Soundbar: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SUO5QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453788771&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=jeep+kicker+speaker+upgrade&dpPl=1&dpID=414npO2O69L&ref=plSrch

Dash: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CSS654/Kicker-40CSS654.html?tp=106

As for subs a single 10" (even some 8's) in a "truck box" will give you the missing low end. You will retain your cargo space and much easier to take out if you need to load up. Or should someone decide they need your subs more than you, it will be cheaper to replace. Of course you could do a 12" or double up on anything...I was young once and competed in many audio events. If you want to go nuts let's talk.

As for your head unit. Head over to www.crutchfield.com and poke around. Many use Crutchfield to see what fits then shop around for a better deal. If you purchase from them you will many time receive all the wiring and mounting hardware +phone support.

If you are newer to modifying things your stereo is a good entry into learning how things work. Feel free to hit me up if you need to talk through anything.

OK, Here is what I would do. This will give you the flexibility to connect a variety of sources.

You will need to get an amplifier that can provide a "bridged" speaker output. A Bridged output will allow you to input a stereo signal (from your chromecast, projector, or other source) and output a mono signal to your speaker. Search Amazon for "Bridged amplifier". You will not need anything too powerful as you will only be driving a single 4 or 8 ohm speaker. This Rockford amplifier looks like it will fit the bill nicely, although at 150W it is probably more power than you need http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_204?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419695728&sr=1-204&keywords=bridged+amplifier

Replace the speaker and wiring, and possibly the volume control. An 8 ohm speaker is standard. Search amazon for "8 ohm speaker", and get one that matches the size of your current speaker.

For the volume control, it is simplest to adjust the volume from the amplifier, but if you want to keep the volume control in the housing, get a single turn resistor that will fit into the same mounting holes. I think this one is probably too physically large to fit, but you get the idea http://www.amazon.com/Single-Resistor-Control-Ceramic-Rheostat/dp/B00JR6GCSW

What I would do is turn the volume control switch into a switch for lights. This is not my area of expertise, but I would go to an automotive stereo store near you as they might be able to make some suggestions for how to mount some LEDs in between the speaker and the grille, and they will probably have a variety of options.

As for the projector, Benq right now is my favorite brand for quality vs price. I have used some of their consumer and professional projectors and been very happy.

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

Ok, let's reorganize your shopping list here...
so far you have spent $400...

Let's do this a little bit differently.

Your Headunit is fine, however with most pioneers they have shitty RCA grounds (i have one) and eventually will piss you off. The stereo only has 1 set of RCA outs, which is fine for subs but if you intend on upgrading later to a 4channel amp too it would be very beneficial to start off with a proper amount of RCA's. Here would be a very similarly priced and great sounding receiver with 2 rca outs and slightly higer voltage preamps which is always nice.

Now, for your subs...don't do 2 12s just yet. Hold off on that until you can actually afford to power 2 of them with the right wattage and space required.

Do this instead:

Same brand but higher model

With this amp

and this wiring kit.

Your box unless you want to build it should be somewhere around this size

No idea what the tuning on that box is..but should be ok.

All in all it is going to be about 80 bucks more...but this will do soooo much nicer.

Lets talk some talk.

Good

Better

Best

Going with "Good" you're looking at a simple subwoofer upgrade.
You're going to need about 500+ Watts RMS to overcome your back seat. Then You're looking at a ported box with maybe a 12" or 2-12" subs that can each handle good power. Lets go with amazon's stuff and a Single 12" for good measure.

The Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 @ $130
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P3D4-12-1200-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050827&sr=8-1&keywords=Rockford+fosgate+p3

An Atrend Box the 12SQV $65 http://www.amazon.com/Single-Vented-Square-Box-Enclosure/dp/B0007XV5G8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464050938&sr=8-1&keywords=12sqv

The Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime Amp @ $120
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051007&sr=8-1&keywords=r500x1d

A REAL COPPER 5 Ga Wire Kit: XD-ACS60 $58 http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-XD-ACS60-Amplifier-Connection/dp/B0041MU7B0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051265&sr=8-1&keywords=xd-acs60

A PROPER Line Out Converter LC2i $68
http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B01EDFPNSG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464051367&sr=8-1&keywords=LC2i

So, This is the MINIMUM for just adding one sub, Without going with the crap out there.

You are currently at $441 of your $800 Budget Limit.

Lets calculate installation.

1. Amplifier Installation: $120
   
2. Line Out Converter Installation: $72
   
3. Load/Wire Subwoofer into Box: $24
   
4. Disable ANC: $48
   
   Labor is going to be around $264
   
   Labor + Parts = $705
   
   I have no idea how to make your car better with $95 except maybe put some sound deadening in your trunk.
   
   Keep in mind, these prices are at AMAZON's.... Not retail.
   
   $700-800 Sounds like a lot, until you realize that GOOD Labor isn't cheap.
   
   If you think that's expensive, Go ask your dealership how much it costs to replace your alternator... JUST your alternator.
   
   
   

I cannot tell you 100% if they're the best for the price, but I can tell you that I really liked the sound of them when I owned them. Keep in mind that part of having a good sounding speaker is having them properly installed. I put some cheap sound deadening mat inside doors (home depot stuff) in the doors along with MDF ring bases and was really satisfied with their capabilities. Here you can see the reviews on amazon. I recommend going through the questions people have had on these speakers.

Ok, I'll help with this one. Things you will need: dash install kit, wiring harness, head unit, sub wiring kit, subwoofer, sub box, speakers (optional), subwoofer amplifier, and an afternoon. For the dash kit, start here: http://www.carid.com/2008-pontiac-g5-stereo-installation-dash-kits/ the kit let's you fit an aftermarket radio into the dash. Then the wiring harness, http://www.carid.com/american-international/wiring-harness-plugs-into-factory-harness-mpn-gwh406.html connects the new radio to the car speakers. Then the head unit, i really recommend this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01463W1IU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1464928970&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=Head+unit&dpPl=1&dpID=41AY36GKw9L&ref=plSrch it's simple, but has everything you need with Bluetooth and excellent control over your sound profile. Front speakers in my experience are not the most important part of the build, usually for later model cars, the stock speakers are already decent, and just adding a new head unit will seriously upgrade the sound quality. If you really want to replace them, just look up your speaker size for your car and google some good speakers in that size. The subwoofer is going to make the biggest difference in your sound, but i really have to know what you want. Do you want an earthquake in your car, or good balance for sound quality? I can make some recommendations for a sub or amp based on what you want.

ok, so looking into it they aren't necessarily audiophile features, but they are still completley unnecessary for someone who just wants something to give them a few modern conveniences (like an AUX jack and bluetooth for example) and not much else (for example, GPS navigation, or a touch screen, both not necessary whatsoever for a good quality head unit)

in fact, looking at amazon now, even around $80 seems to be a bit on the high side for a decent head unit, as i'm seeing pretty good quality ones for around $50-$60 on amazon

like this pioneer for example: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-150MP-Single-Stereo-Playback/dp/B0091V0A9U/ref=sr_1_4?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518202740&sr=8-4&keywords=head+unit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

or if you don't care about CD playback, this boss unit is on sale from it's usual price of $66 to now about $30

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ref=sr_1_3?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518202740&sr=8-3&keywords=head+unit&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

and it has a few more options (not including CD) over the pioneer, as not only does it have aux, but it also has USB, SD Card, and bluetooth if you happen to have a phone without a headphone jack

that means you need to get a better amp, also for the love of god dont buy a prefab box... pay a friend to build one if you have to. the box is the most important part of your install.

EDIT: this amp will be better than that jl anyday just set your gains right and you will be fine

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8

Shame on r/moto for downvoting a legitimate question. If you don't like how others customize their bikes then just move on.

Certified audio visual technician, I can help with the speakers. If you're going to use the speakers when your bike is off, you need to fit an extra or larger battery into your bike. Recommend at least a 12AH (amp hour) deep cycle battery for the "extra" or anything larger than your current battery for a single one. Forget everything you were told about wattage. Wattage != loud. You want Db rating. Db rating = how loud a speaker is in decibels with 1 watt of power to it. You have to double the wattage every time to get 3 more db. 400 watts vs 100 watts is only 4 decibels louder in the same speaker, or, a barely noticeable difference.

On the cheap end I recommend:
>Any head unit you prefer with a least 20watts per channel or this https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582501&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai If you're cool with just using an aux cord straight from your phone into an amp.

>And these speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-DS693-3-Way-Speakers-Pair/dp/B004K5AZAQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582569&sr=1-5&keywords=6x9+speakers 92db with 1 watt. 20 watts is plenty to crank it them to 104 decibels. 50watts to about 108 decibels.

Pricier but the best bang for your buck:

>Head unit of your choice (doesn't need any wattage)
>This amplifier https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-PAD2000-2-2-channel-Amplifier/dp/B0060AVWRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582960&sr=1-1&keywords=polk+d2000.2 ignore the reviews, solid amp, people just don't know what they're doing.
>these speakers https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KS693-Inch-3-way-Speakers/dp/B004OAWLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582825&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+ks+6x9 or these https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582858&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+6x9

All speakers are water proof and very durable. I recommend 6x9s for maximum listening pleasure. Don't forget to wire a switch to cut power from the amp and headunit when you don't need them.

Ridiculously overpriced but thats just my opinion. I had alpine type r components in front, two way in rears a 12in sub and alpine 5 channel amp for about $600 cheaper. Sure the sub is nice since its out of the way but you can purchase that separately if you want it. The amp was the most expensive piece it was like $400-500. You're better off buying a 4 channel amp and getting aftermarket speakers.

Here are the specs on the type r components:

110 Watts RMS
330 Watts Peak

The speakers alone will trash that system.

componenets $150

2 way $100

pdx-f4 $305

or

pdx-v9 $430

then pick a sub and it'll still be a better deal than the oem system.

I went to best buy about 2 weeks ago and bought the 6.5" kicker speakers for my 01 and they were great. I have an alpine head unit and the sound difference is night and day. I have the same setup in my 06 LJ too. If I can make one suggestion for the subwoofer. I got a single 10" shallow sub and it bumps pretty hard. It was the Rockford Fosgate shallow 10 and I recommend really highly. Amazon has it for cheap, get an after market head unit, decent sized amp, and power the one speaker. You'll never get clipping or static. The amp won't over heat (as long as you get the right ratings)

This sub

And this amp

Never seen that website before. That would be a bit overkill. The speakers look good tho.

If you're looking to save money you can go with something like this.
Amp
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BF6HY84/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328240&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=510stvQfv1L&ref=plSrch
Speakers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0PF9G/ref=mp_s_a_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328354&sr=8-23&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=6.5+coaxial+speakers

Now if you go that route you'll need an amp install kit. Knu koncepts of very well loved here. I have this same kit in my car.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005CIJBKK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502328557&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=knukonceptz+4+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51T-yGZf9YL&ref=plSrch

This will give you plenty of wire for when you add the sub + amp.

Thanks for this info. I think it may be in my best interest to find a more powerful single sub. And I like the idea of keeping a little trunk space. this sundown sub is what I’ve been looking at, and to keep my current amp for the time being

Tough first build I hope it comes out sick.

I’d suggest stretching the budget a hair and getting Image Dynamics ID10’s

Or going a hair bigger on the enclosure and getting image Dynamics ID12’s

They’re nice budget SQ-ish subs that do well in sealed enclosures.

Feed them with about 750watt amp at 1 ohm and they’ll sound very nice.

Something like this or this
Or this

Would pair up nicely

Ported isn’t going to work in that amount of space.

I can not recommend this unit enough:

Pioneer AppRadio 4 SPH-DA120 6.2-Inch Capacitive Touchscreen Smartphone Receiver Display https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0FHsDbY8Y0Y0S

It has Apple CarPlay as well as android auto depending on your phone. Great sound, customizable lights on the front to match your interior, even HDMI in the back (look up adding a raspberry pi car computer).

I’ve bought two for my wife and I and would buy a third if I had a car to put it in.

Also congratulations on your car! Enjoy it and don’t forget to 👋

$300 for 4 speakers? Thats a pretty good budget.

I would personally buy these 6.5's and these 6x9's. Now, i have the first set of speakers i linked, and so do a lot of the people on this subreddit. They are pretty nice sounding speakers, and will get as loud as you need. I linked those 6x9's because they are the same model as the first, just different size.


Also, i saved you $50, that you should spend on deadening.

I also installed 5.25's in front and 6.5's in the rear like u/Bageeka did, and can vouch that the sound difference is huge. Oddly enough i also used kickers, since they were like $34 at bestbuy. But if your on a budget, check out [this deck] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S50WPG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), its super cheap and ive been more than happy with it.

Rule of thumb, you get what you pay for and if it’s too good to be true it probably is.

Example boss claiming 1100 watts for $44.99 when others are selling 1000 watts for $180 or 1200 watt for $330 should be a big red flag that something isn’t right with that boss. That’s not to say you can’t get a deal on an amp that’s worth a damn or that you need to pay extra for a name it’s just an example that some things are to good to be true. That “1200 watt” boss amp would be lucky to make 400 watts on a good day.

Thanks for the response. Looking at the Subwoofers with good ratings I found 3 models that I think would be good for me.

I could go with 2 of these

Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch Subwoofer 4 SVC (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036MOQCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I25mybM8C1RZ8

Or 1 of these

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_u55mybA45BVQA

Or 1 of these

12W0V3-4 - JL Audio 12" Single 4-Ohm W0V3 Series Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5ZCDDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v65myb8P643ME.

All of the configurations above come to around the same price. I'm thinking one higher quality subwoofer would sound better than 2 of lower quality, correct? I'm planning on using a sealed box. Which one of these would be the best choice?

They would be compatible, but I think there are better deals out there.

If you are looking to get into car av, I think you will be much happier with this sub (you can get the 10,12, or 15 version. You will want the 2 ohm version though) for $200 and this amp for $130. You will just need to build or buy a box. If you have the means to build a box, you can look at CAF’s free box design (link to design in description)z you might be able to pay a cabinet builder to make one if you don’t have the means yourself. That brings you from $350 budget to $330, you just need a box.

If you want to actually mirror your screen, you need this with a radio that accepts HDMI. Carplay is similar to mirroring, there's plenty of youtube videos that demonstrates what it's about, a lot more limited than mirroring though. I don't personally use it but the Kenwood DDX9703S is a beautiful radio, if you want a cheaper radio though this Pioneer is neat as well.

/u/pixelkarma If you're keen on the JBL CP100 I would highly recommend the Sony XAV-AX100. The only issue is it doesn't have Aux in. I love my one, it works/sounds great.

I had the Sony XAV-AX100, and much like you, I wanted that volume knob. And much like you, I was disappointed when I actually had it. Other than that, the head unit itself was pretty great, sounded fantastic. I ultimately went back to Android head units, but I liked the Sony.

If you can wait a month or so, the Sony XAV-AX5000 just came out:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX500-CarPlay-Receiver-BLUETOOTH/dp/B07CB3CB1V

currently out of stock, but it is an updated version of the 100, and does not have a volume knob, but easily accessible volume buttons.

Background!

What I own so far:

• Logitech Z 906 5.1 Surround. Used for LCD TV, computer and gaming consoles for now.
  
• Audioengine A2 Powered Desktop Speakers (2) - Not in use. Bring stored for future.
  
• Fiio E09K Desktop Headphone Amp - Not being used. May connect to desktop rig eventually.
  
• Onkyo HT-S8409 7.1-Channel 3D Ready Network Home Theater System. Bought this with the intention of it being my home theater system. Probably outdated by now.
  
• Onkyo HT-RC430 5.1-Channel 3D Ready A/V Receiver - Not used prob going to sell.
  
• Sennheiser HD 595 headphones Main PC Desktop drivers.
  
• Sennheiser HD 600 Barely used! Want a good amp to use them with.
  
  What I'm looking to get/upgrade to:
  
  
• Better 7.1 system or at least receiver. I'm looking to prep with a decent 7.1 system for the future. Onkyo used to be really great but everyone keeps saying Denon is better.
  
• A really good tube amp that won't break the bank. The whole DAC/Amp thing confuses me. Would use it for audio out on my Desktop to Sennheiser headphones. Had my eyes on some stuff from Schiit such as the Lyr 3, Valhalla 2, but open to suggestions!
  
  Some extra info:
  
  
• Don't really care about internet streaming because I use Google Chromecast, Sonos etc that will hook into a receiver. Sonos does most everything but I have two Play:5's (old and new) with the 3.5 jack if needed.
  

Zero reviews. Off-brand. Try to find something that inspires more confidence. Two minutes of research led me to this one that is better from a trusted name with good reviews for a lower price:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01463W1IU/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile

I have that exact sub but I'm running it off a JL 1000/1d mono block amp. I had it in an enclosed box first and eventually moved to ported box. The ported box makes it much louder. Can't comment much on the amp you have in momd but 1000 watts is more than enough power. It's in my 2011 Mazda 3 with an aftermarket headunit and it sounds great, all that's left is to get rid of the rattles this summer! Just thought I'd share my experience with ya. Hope it helps.

Edit: here's the box I chose for it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_zaVOAbD953G1C

I got a pair of these. Super cheap but surprisingly good. Originally intended to be temporary while I repaired the old ones, but after the break in I think they sound better than the old expensive ones.

Both in a ported box aimed up, pushed by this amp.

Yes.

Don't buy it.

You will be sorely disappointed with the audio quality and overall build quality of it, good radios start at about $80, and you want reliable bluetooth.

I spent $100 on a Kenwood for my Honda and the bluetooth is fucking terrible, it takes ages to connect. I can safely say I have wasted multiple days of my life getting the god damned bluetooth to work. Otherwise, it sounds fantastic.

Best inexpensive radio brand? Pioneer. this guy is a fucking deal.

For a 99 Mustang, you also will need a handful of accessories to install it, including:

Ford radio removal tools

a Dash adapter kit (because the radio is a different size than stock)

and a wiring harness kit (This only works if you don't have premium or Mach audio)

The harness kit will make it easy to wire it up on your kitchen table, all of the wires are color coded to match the wiring harness the Pioneer radio will come with, once you crimp or solder your connections and heat string or electrical tape them, install will be as simple as "plug and play"

The issue you run into with cheap radios is poor advertising of wattage or power output. I promise that $30 radio doesn't put out 50w x 4. Probably more like 1/4 of that, this will make your music sound like total utter shit.

Ok i copied some specs of the same exact speakers on ebay.
Any 2 channel would work on these if you're only planning on amping them, but a 4 channel amp would be good for if you want to amplify all 4 speakers front and rear. I would recommend Rockford Fosgate amps, this one is nice. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481249591&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+2+channel



Ratings
Impedance 4 Ohms
Power handling 45w rms | 90w max
Technical Specs
Tweeter size 0.25″
Woofer size 6.5″
X-over point 3.5khz
Cone material IMPP NBR surround
Magnet size 90mm x 15mm
Magnet weight 14oz
Frequency response 50hz – 20khz
SPL 88db
FO 50hzMSRP: $249.99

Ebay listing

I purchased these in August 2014. They are both still like new in box condition. I recently upgraded my desktop to utilize TRS/ XLR because the RCA connections created a static background with my powered speaker while playing games. I never had any issues while listening to music or watching videos. If you don't use a powered speaker, or if you don't play games through speakers, this is an awesome DAC/ AMP pair.

I did use the E17 in my car for about a year to act as a signal amplifier to my radio input. But I always kept it in the case so it doesn't have any scratches. They look brand new. The only issue I would mention is that the LCD screen does show a "burn in" because I have used it almost every day and so the text "USB IN" is visible on the screen. If you don't understand what I mean by LCD Burn In just ask and I will try to get a picture of it.

I'm having trouble finding the specs on FiiO's website, so I'm including these Amazon links for reference. When I get off work I'll try to do a little more digging.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Alpen-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1510938798&sr=8-2&keywords=FiiO+E17&dpID=41txNfEtYYL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510938798&sr=8-4&keywords=FiiO+E17&dpID=41CpZWsDoyL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I paid $248 for the pair of these, and I'm firm with my $150 price. Shipping will be $10 USPS Priority Medium Flate Rate. Paypal preferred, but I'll accept a check. They will ship once the check clears, which takes about 3-5 days.

I realize I'm new here, so I'm happy to use a middle man if that's a thing on this subreddit. I've done a few trades in both r/Starcitizen_trades and r/pkmntcgtrades

https://www.reddit.com/r/Starcitizen_trades/comments/6qummw/psa_confirmed_trades_thread_august_2017/dmdh1yz/?context=3

https://www.reddit.com/r/pkmntcgreferences/comments/4yxrum/supremegunmans_reference_thread/

Any questions I'll try to get to after work.

Thanks

Hi, I know absolutely nothing about audio power amplifier and came here in hope for some help.
I have a Beyerdynamic 770 Pro and want to fix an amplifier to it, I have checked most of FIIIO E09K ( http://www.amazon.com/E09K-Output-De.../dp/B008J26ZL4 ) but every time I check up reviews or YouTube videos then fiioe17 is always included.
I'm guessing it's because the E09K is not DAC included, but I dont really know what kind of difference it makes. I understand it converts the signals, but I dont get what that does in practic.

So I decided to look at amplifiers with DAC included and came up with either FIIO E10K or Hegel Super(this one is more expensive but there's a 50% discount on it).

Which one should I choose? All help is greatly appreciated.

The headphones are connected to my computer, I'm not going to use an amplifier for my phone or laptop. And I dont have a sound card

• locker. with a soft top you may want to be able to leave something expensive in your jeep with some peace of mind. any kind of locker that affixes to the vehicle and is made of metal. lots on amazon.
  
  
• kicker speaker upgrades, they are a direct replacement, and sound much better for a good price.
  
  
• interior LED light replacement, you can get a drop in LED dome light replacement at your local shop that will let you actually see inside when you need to.
  
  
• mopar gas cap cover, if yours doesn't have one.
  
  
• little stick-on wide angle mirrors, big help for blind spots. they're everywhere and cheap, find one you like and put on one or both mirrors in the corner.

Thanks for the quick reply. Told him he will need a better box.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463443730&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+fosgate+750+rms

Is that the amp you speak of? $210 on amazon.

Also what wiring kit? I see many posted here and I don't know which would be best for his specific setup.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/

It would be difficult to find a proper headunit with a cassette, but i can give you a few items to go by.

Headunit - DEH-150mp

(dash kit, wiring harness and antenna adapter of course)

keeping budget in mind, and that that car has 4 4x8 sized speakers, i would get two sets of these adaptors to allow for 5.25 speakers.
I personally use 2 sets of Polk db522
and for the money they sound decent.

You could leave it like that and it would be enjoyable or you can go the extra step and get something like a RF4 channel amp, with amp install kit and be right around your 500 mark.

Keep in mind that i am far from an expert. Just wanted to give you a direction.

That PM100X1 was exactly the type of product I had in mind, thank you, but you're right, pricing makes it not worth it.

I had no idea LOC were a thing until you mentioned the concept, but yeah, it looks like that's the way to go.

So if I'm understanding what you're suggesting correctly, a setup may looking something like this...

1. Splice the +/- pairs of wires for all 4 channels coming out of the head unit and connect it into a 4 channel LOC (like this one)
   
   
2. Run all 4 channels over to a 4x100 amp using flex wire for easy wiring.
   
   
3. Re-splice in the factory wiring into the appropriate channels on the amp.
   
   
4. Done?

I started with the Sync 2 system in my 2016 Explorer and noticed the clipping as well. It drove me crazy along with sync 2/MFT. I too had most of my climate involved with the HU and sought out possible solutions. I ended up installing a sync 3 system from a newer parted ford along with This. I also added a small sub, but would still have been possible without the sub. After install, absolutely 0 clipping! It changed everything and sounds fantastic for pretty much a stock setup!

Alright, I will buy Rockford Fosgate Punch P2. As far as the box goes how does this look? I am not sure how to find the right type for that sub.

http://www.amazon.com/Bbox-E12SV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=pd_sim_e_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1GZ3QQN113ZA4BAF94XM

So basically my setup will be that box,

Amp: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3001

Sub : http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P2D4-12-12-Inch-Subwoofer/dp/B004UFHXIS

Speakers: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_1131665S/Kenwood-KFC-1665S.html?tp=105

Stereo: http://www.amazon.com/Sony-DSXA40UI-Digital-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B00FB45SRU

Any advice to make it better, or if something is wrong is really appreciated. Thanks again for the help!

>Some people can't buy a brand new car just to have the newest technology

You don't have to buy a new car. You can buy a new receiver unit for cheap... cheap as in $36: http://www.amazon.com/612UA-MP3-Compatible-Digital-Media-Receiver/dp/B004S50WPG/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1394303431&sr=1-1

That's probably what this tape converter would cost, but a new receiver will sound 100 times better. Converting from digital to analog in that little tape unit and then sending that analog through the tape deck's read head is going to produce a lot of noise and a lack of clarity - fantastic if you're a hipster, but awful if you care about form or function.

Go the easy route and order some Kickers off Amazon. $60 for the set, plug and play, and sound great. Kicker Speakers

huh. that sounds so much simpler than my Taurus was lol.

I'm probably going to be replacing the stock radio at some point anyway with this: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ which probably also won't have a trip computer lol.

But in the meantime, It'd be nice to have. Maybe I can just buy a stock radio with the trip computer already active and slip it in.

Item | Price

--|:--
Alpine Type-R SWR-12D2 Subwoofer | $142
NVX JAD1200.1 Amplifier + Installation Kit | $305
NVX True Spec 1/0 Gauge Big 3 Amp Wiring Kit | $70
BBox E12SV 12-Inch Single Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | $40
Total | $557

That should be a good start. That gets your a basic enclosure (you might be happy with that, you might want to consider building a custom one or having one built), the subwoofer, amplifier, wiring to install the amplifier, and wiring to upgrade your battery and alternator cables.

Thanks for the info. Do you think the MTX amp would be worth it in the long run (like, would the Power Acoustik amp die on me)?

Also: I've heard that these Alpines are great speakers and I am wondering if it would be worth it to shell out the extra $50. Or maybe I should go with these Polks. You seem to be pretty educated when it comes to audio; what would your choice be?

You can get a decent bluetooth/USB capable head unit for about $30. That's what you'd spend on a FM transmitter at Best Buy. Installation is not difficult and any reasonably popular car will have a walk-through on YouTube.

Get these instead of the Kicker's

Polk Audio DB461P 4-by-6-Inch Coaxial Plate-Style Speakers (Pair, Black)
http://amzn.com/B000P0NJOO

And these instead of the JVC's

Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver)
http://amzn.com/B000P0R6KW

For $15 more, you'll get better sound. Although, if you prefer to use Crutchfield, I'm sure you'll be happy (for the time being) with those.

Good idea. Is this the kind of unit you’re talking about? https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-616UAB-Multimedia-Stereo/dp/B01CG8N0H8?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_14

Then I’d only need an aux to connect to my laptop and a 12v power supply to plug into an outlet, right?
Thanks for any advice, I am not technically knowledgeable so you’re really helping me.

/u/lightzalot I would probably buy you this car radio if I had the money - because I like gadgets and am clueless about beauty products. Or possibly something for the kitchen. Or maybe a vibrator if I knew you really, really, well, since I've never bought someone a sex-toy before, and I like the name "Pico Bong".

ok good, its a fine subwoofer in the right box (make your own, dont buy one) but get the d2 and wire it like this

And for an amp under $200 to power it, really I would say the Twisted Sounds 1k, but its a bit over your budget, but wonderful amp. OR, here is one right on 200 that does 750rms

Ok I think I will put a 12 in my backseat now. is this the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XlXqzbKCMPHC0

is this a good sub for the amp? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ZWBG7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BnXqzb188Y4KP

these wires? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050I6KII/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SoXqzbR928SJY

And is this box good? Single 12" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GUT3JOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GpXqzbKXFSYCR

Would this sub be better since the amp is only 500 rms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zqXqzb6PKAHB4

I don't have any drills or anything to make my own sub enclosure so that's why I'm asking if that box would be good enough or I can see if I can get someone to make one for me

The easiest and cheapest route would be to buy this rockford fosgate loaded enclosure and just wire it into the rear speakers.

Although, this may not be much an improvement on the premium system. So if you're craving a little more oomph, you would have to go this route:

Get an amp with high level inputs like this precision power. Wire it with a nice 4 awg amp kit and splice the high level to the rear speakers. After you have the amp installed, the possibilities for subs are pretty much endless. You could run something like this SA 12 and either make a box for it or put it in this prefab.

Amp: $120

Amp Kit: $30

Sub: $200

Box: $45
____
total: $495

After shipping and taxes it all might be over 500, but this would definitely scratch your itch for bass.

So you want no bluetooth audio streaming, but since you want Spotify, you want a aux in.

There is a super cheap Boss on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004S50WPG/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473795820&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&th=1&psc=1

I'll throw in that I've had an 09 Corolla S with 5 speed stick and it has never had a single failure of any sort other than the manual transmission having a second to third synchro issue that I've learned to work around. But as most are automatics, even that wouldn't be a problem. I highly recommend the cars for reliability as long as they're properly maintained.

If you get it, you can easily install a double-din apple/android compatible receiver, like the Sony XAV-AX5000 ( https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX5000-CarPlay-Receiver-BLUETOOTH/dp/B07CB3CB1V ) for GPS/music and make the car feel modern.

I just called my local Best Buy, they set me up with a harness and din adapter no issues. Keep in mind when changing your receiver you will lose likely the door mounted speakers and your steering wheel controls. I didn't mind as I got a way better set up for a little over $200
Here's what I got and I am VERY happy with it
BOSS AUDIO 616UAB Single-DIN MECH-LESS Multimedia Player (no CD or DVD), Receiver, Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CG8N0H8/
ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pb6MybFVX6G0F
And this woofer

Rockville RTB12A 12" 600w Powered Subwoofer Bass Tube + Bass Remote+Amp Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PYXBZ0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hc6Myb37Q7HC0

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9L28AbQPQWH9M

Have you looked into the P3s or the more budget friendly P2s? Jl also makes some nice subwoofers like the w3s.

Oh goodie, so that's basically the easiest possible combination. (I was asking about steering wheel controls and subwoofers because you'd need even more adapters for those. And auto climate control makes the din kit a pain in the ass, you gotta import it from Japan. But yours looks like a base model without any of that.)

So you're going to need:

• A wiring harness (specific to your Outback). You want to connect the other end of this to the harness that comes in the head unit's box. Personally I used solder/heatshrink to connect these but "butt" crimp connectors are also an option. Please don't use electrical tape, that'll fall apart through time and heat. https://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-8901-93-Impreza-Vehicle/dp/B0002BEQL6/
  
  
• An antenna adapter (for FM/AM). https://www.amazon.com/Metra-40-SB10-2005-Up-Antenna-Adapter/dp/B000K53QAQ/
  
  
• A DIN kit: https://www.amazon.com/Metra-95-8901-Double-Outback-2005-2009/dp/B00K5D2MYE/
  
  
• The stereo itself: https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ or maybe https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-AVH-1300NEX-Multimedia-Bluetooth-SiriusXM-Ready/dp/B073BNFTV7/
  
  Crutchfield also has some good resources. The only thing is that the aux port under the palm rest won't work anymore, unless you can find a way to adapt it to the new stereo. Many new stereos don't even support aux anymore. Also the Sony I mentioned (probably amongst others) has a USB port hanging off the back, so you'll need to get a USB extension and run it to somewhere in the car. Like drill a hole somewhere in the center console and run the cable up.
  
  And here's a guide for actually removing the stereo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GIyQGdXUxS4

Your stock radio likely doesn't have a line out, so you can use a line-out converter such as this or this. You can wire the inputs to your rear/trunk speakers and the RCA output goes to your amp. For your amplifier's remote turn-on input, you can find the fuse for the radio in your fuse box and use this with a second (much smaller) fuse. You do not need to remove your stock radio to install any of this. Crutchfield has nice instructions for installation in most scenarios. Happy wiring!

Sony XAV-AX5000 7" Apple Car Play, Android Auto, Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CB3CB1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-XNDDbPW8M1T9

Best one there is atm. If you can wait till December there is another one coming out from Sony but it's double the price. It's easy to install and it's a 3 inch larger display. You can move it in all directions to where you want to see it when installed. It's the Sony XAV-AX9000

You want to separate the DAC and headphone amp and Speaker amp sections. Trying to find an all in one is never good.

I'd go Odac RCA version ($170) + FiiO E09K ($100) + Emotiva Mini X100 ($190)

That way you can use the 3.5mm and RCA outputs of the Odac with no splitters and feed both the E09K for headphones and the Mini X100 at the same time.

Have you considered the HD600's or HD650's? The 700's you should really listen to before you consider buying. They are a bit "unique" in their implementation and some people just can't get into the way it sounds (me included)

Tube Vs Solid state is a taste thing. If you can sample a few, do so. Just know tubes distort sound in a warm and loving way.. but are inaccurate. If you want accuracy you need a solid state.

If the amp didn't have to be HUGE the SMSL SA50 for $66 would also work

I imagine that you just need an amp like this. The specs are pretty darn nice for its size imo. Then you find some speakers with the same RMS rating.
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel/dp/B004T0WFVE

It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.

This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.

I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.

It's the nicest head unit I've owned, but it still feels slightly dated. Weird shit, like there are two USB ports on the back and one is for iOS devices, and one is for Android, so if you want both you need to run two cables out from behind the dash. Even stock Chevrolet radios these days seem to support both out of a single USB. The interface is "meh", I don't love it but I don't hate it. The biggest thing I miss is a physical volume knob, but I would have had to get a smaller screen and I didn't want that.

Honestly the reason I got it is because of The Wirecutter's Review. If I weren't looking for CarPlay/Android Auto, I probably would have gotten a different one, but I love having Spotify & Google Maps in my car.

Prolly better off using the 9601 here at 1 ohm wired like this. It's better to have more power available to a sub than not enough.. this avoids clipping at high volumes.

Dash kit is there, doesn't look too damaged, you should be able to cage mount a new radio.

No antenna adapter required (thanks Honda!) For reference, antenna is the silver end with foam wrapped around the wire shown in pic 2. It will just plug into any new radio.

The red RCA you show in picture 2 should have a white or black one attached too (they come in pairs) I can see the same cable tucked behind the support in picture 3, so I'm guessing it's just jammed away in there somewhere. That would be the subwoofer signal line (or go to an EQ, not sure what you had in addition to the radio/speakers).

The most important part, the harness to the car, isn't shown in any of these pictures. Picture 3 shows the wires in a bundle on the right side (under the yellow plug), but I don't see the end. It looks like this. If you have that, all you need is Metra part no. 70-1721 to plug in and give you all the wires for a new radio. If it's cut off (just bare wires) you'll have to hardwire (but won't need any extra parts). Take a picture and reply with it and I can confirm what you need.

As for radios, you won't have a hard time finding a good quality $100 radio with aux and BT. I'm a pioneer fan, the deh-x6800bt is right in that budget.

Are you going to feed the sound from the phone to the car speakers?

If yes, then you need a car stereo with a 3.5mm jack. Then just buy a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cord and then a phone car charger.

If you just want to play over your phone speakers then just get a car charger.

EDIT: Like this car stereo. http://www.amazon.com/612UA-MP3-Compatible-Digital-Media-Receiver/dp/B004S50WPG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395996738&sr=8-2&keywords=car+stereo

You want portable or is this just at home?

If you're only at home O2/ODAC combo or the Magni/Modi combo.

Magni: http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=13

Modi :http://schiit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=14

O2 : http://www.jdslabs.com/item.php?fetchitem=o2full

ODAC (this is the combo and the odac by itself) http://www.jdslabs.com/storecat.php?fetchcat=5

If you want to be on the go as well at home I would say the E17/E09k combo. This way you can take the E17 on the go but dock it at home.

E17 : http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E17-USB-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B0070UFMOW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754570&sr=1-1&keywords=e17

E09k : http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754606&sr=1-2&keywords=e17


If you want to do away with a pricier DAC a behringer uca202 is an easy substitute.

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1368754731&sr=1-1&keywords=uca202

Edit - Links

Thats for the response. I am interested in a gauge because my car is modded and theres a few things that I want to monitor while driving. Its not a big deal as I can just link it up to my phone.
I'll look into the pioneer. I was also recommended a sony, https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX5000-CarPlay-Receiver-BLUETOOTH/dp/B07CB3CB1V/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=double%20din%20android%20auto%20play%20bluetooth&qid=1574139439&sr=8-15&fbclid=IwAR26FFXrneQuY0wnTU6prPeBtwhftW07RyTAiKc6KIBGV6EbQrV7mzEY4c0 . Is this one comparable to the pioneer?
thanks

> boss r1000m

My bad, it's actually this one: Boss R1100M


I thought it was 1000+ reviews but its 700. Still though, all those people actually believe they're getting the bargain of the century.

I don't blame Boss though. They're doing a very good job of getting people to buy their stuff, and although we all rip them on this subreddit, we're not their target audience. Their target is high schoolers and people that shop at Walmart that are going to be happy with their purchase because they have "2000W" sound systems and can show off to their friends and what-not.

But it's when they try to sell that crap on Craigslist that always gets me. "2000W Bose 2 12" Competition Subwoofer in Bandpass Box, $300"

With a tiny $50 dollar Boss amp, 2 Boss subs and one of those disgusting prefab "bandpass" boxes with the 'Dual' or 'Pyle' subs in them and have blue LEDs inside.

/rant

this one I've used before and it was even cheaper back then...sounds great for any sort of stock speaker setup and has a bunch of functionality. have them in multiple cars for a year+ each, good deal

Well you didn't specify a budget so i'll just [throw this 1500W rms amp at you](https://www.wolframaudio.com/collections/w-series-monoblock-amplifiers/products/w-1500-1). Solid Korean made amp that should be more than enough for your subs. Set your gain with a multimeter (or oscope if you have access) appropriately and you'll be solid.

If you dont' want as much stress on your electrical then you might want something a little smaller, like this [RF 750.1d])https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8). Also a solid little amp that is underrated. They usually put out 800-900W rms.

I don't know how easy it is to install because I had a audio shop do mine but I replaced my front speakers with Kicker 6x9 & tweeters, backs with Kicker 6.5" speakers & installed a Kicker 11HS8 8" hideaway sub under the rear seat. It's all run by the factory head unit with a Alpine KTP-445U 4-channel Power Pack Amplifier & a AudioController LC2i to power everything & even out the sound. Sounds a lot better than the Bose system imo. Here's a couple links to some of the products I used although there's some other similar options made by other manufactures as well. I couldn't stand the regular stock stereo, you can hardly even hear the rear speakers & bass is nonexistent.

https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-11HS8-Hideaway-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007LQWSYC/ref=sr_1_1?crid=14ZVDXCI9A4A5&keywords=kicker+hideaway+11hs8&qid=1566757560&s=gateway&sprefix=kicker+hideaway%2Caps%2C408&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Alpine+KTP-445U&qid=1566757860&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-Channel-Converter-AccuBASS-Subwoofer/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?keywords=audio+controller+lc2i&qid=1566757904&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr1

Their is a 6 inch Sony head unit that comes with apple car play, android stuff with all the buttons on the bottom. We had it in our 07XT as well as our 2016 cross trek. Thing works amazing, and is runs counter to some of the more over critical reviews you will find. I’ll see if I can get the exact name of it for you. It was roughly $400

EDIT: it’s a 7 inch here it is. The 6 inch has a scroll button for the volume.


Sony XAV-AX5000 7" Apple Car Play, Android Auto, Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CB3CB1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_L6MJDb50R7475

Didn’t read your price range, I’m sorry.

No, it’s 2 ohms in parallel. The SA 12 you linked is 4 ohms per coil, so wired in parallel it’s 2 ohms and in series it’s 8 ohms. The SA12 D2 (this one) is able to be wired down to 1 ohms. So if you get the SA-12 D2, you need a 1 ohms stable amp (the R750 I recommended is perfect) But if you get the SA-12 D4, the JX1000/1 would be nice because the sundown can handle 1000 easy. Here’s some wiring diagrams for dual 4 ohm and dual 2 ohm subs: https://imgur.com/a/KVrt9FM/

I decided to go with your recommendation from amazon. Will get it by Friday and will use that until my repair comes back. Thanks for all your help!!!

I have this one, and its $150 - highly recommend it. They always underrate them, so it's kind of luck of the draw but mine is rated for a little over 500 watts.

Other users can successfully pull over 100 watts at 4ohm.

Check Amazon, there's the JVC KD-R320 Vehicle CD Receiver with Dual AUX at amazon like $60 including shipping and the Boss 612UA MP3-Compatible Digital Media AM/FM Receiver for like $35

My friend has a head unit with Apple car play and it honestly looks just like an iPhone without the button. It's very sleek, very clean, and when powered on it's not riddled with bright flashing colors. I'll link it once I find it.

This is the closest I could find but it's not too far off: https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS

Okay, I may go with putting it under the seat. What about this Rockford Fosgate?

>Also, do you know whether RF considers Amazon an authorized dealer, in the event a warranty claim comes up?

I found out that if sold directly by Amazon, Rockford will support warranty claims.

I did this for an ex's car as a present.

Basically, fuck the cassette adapter. This is cheaper, as permanent as you want it, and better. No scratchy feedback.

Install an aux port in your car.

The head unit (basically stereo control panel) pops out, and you can plug this into the back. Empty spot? Plug there. You might have to give up one of your inputs (unplug the cassette plug w/e you want).

Aux interface,Yomikoo USB/AUX Mp3 Player Adapter Car Digital Music Cd Changer 3.5mm for Mazda 2004-2008 M3 2002-2008 M6 1999-2003 323 2003-2008 Miata 2003-2008 MX5 2002-2006 MPV 2007-2008 CX7
by Yomikoo
Link: http://a.co/6y7OLKq

I used this company's version for a 2000 Honda. I did notice a buzzing sound when charging your phone, (older cars, more electrical noise) so I bought this:

AUKEY Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Home Audio and Car Stereo System with 3.5mm Aux Cable
by AUKEY
Link: http://a.co/he465A8

All good. That was an issue with her wiring.

Wyness Car CD USB Audio Aux Adapter Digital Music Cd Changer 3.5mm Interface for Mazda 2003-2011 M3 2003-2011 M6 1999-2003 323 2003-2008 Miata 2003-2008 MX5 2002-2011 MPV 2006-2011 CX7
by Wyness
Link: http://a.co/aDMRTUI

This one looks fine too. Honestly they all look like they're made by the same company with different names.


Or don't deal with any of that shit. Just replace the head unit. HOLY SHIT THIS THING IS $20. No ground noise.

But wait there's more. $20ish more bucks and you get bluetooth and removeable media.

The only thing you'll need is a spudger (plastic flat thing to pry the dash off). Maybe a screwdriver. It's super easy, have fun, look up youtube videos for your exact model.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CLFM596/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479707951&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=9601+pioneer&dpPl=1&dpID=51YozvhmIYL&ref=plSrch

This amp with knukonceptz 4 gauge.

And a soundqubed hds315 or sundown sa15 is what I would recommend. The hds315 is on sale in 5 days. The amp will be perfect

I got a prefab temporarily for my SA-12 that's tuned to 33Hz, and sounds pretty good to me. Atrend Box Link

I just picked up the rockford r400.4d a couple of weeks ago. So far it's been awesome! And since the place I got it from was a certified retailer they price matched the Amazon price for me.

Thanks for the comment!

what do you think of these http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371929199&sr=8-1&keywords=SPR-60C

would you recommend getting coaxial speakers in the rear?

I would say the installation will probably be around $100-$150

Here’s a link to Geek Squad. Their installation is about $65 plus parts. I would think with a mount kit and the steering wheel control integration you would probably be at around $100-$120

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/car-deck-installation-hardware-not-included/3582102.p?skuId=3582102

I bought my Pioneer AppRadio 4 off Amazon. (SPH-DA120) it is CarPlay enabled. I really like it but would recommend you also get a matte screen protector for it as well or else the fingerprints get pretty bad. (I had to wipe mine off daily with my OCD)

Pioneer AppRadio 4 SPH-DA120 6.2-Inch Capacitive Touchscreen Smartphone Receiver Display. Here is a listing for one at $330. There may be cheaper options out there now if you do some shopping around. I’m not sure.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jRH4AbQBZ71HF

So I’m guessing stereo + parts + install would be around $450 roughly.

Most mid-upper level head units have the ability to plug in a backup camera. I think you'd be hard pressed to find a unit with Android Auto without a backup camera plug. Also, if it has Android Auto, you're guaranteed to have a USB port, as it's required, and all head units with the above mentioned features will most certainly have an aux input as well.

Also, I hear Crutchfield's customer service is top-notch. You should be able to give them a call with more specific questions.

Here are a few well-reviewed units I'm considering for my WRX with all of the features you listed:

Pioneer AVH-4200NEX

Kenwood DDX9903s

Sony XAV-AX100

So would you recommend something like this?, then?

it does look good, how does it compare to the Pioneer AppRadio 4?

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS

I wanted carplay mainly for the maps function but according to one review I watched, google maps still cant be used and apple maps is still garbage... lol

Yeah my Jeep puddles up pretty good near the front which worries me and I will keep all that in mind. For reference purposes the subs and amp that I bought are these:

http://www.amazon.com/Package-Wrangler-Kicker-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B00KJ0ZI4O

http://www.amazon.com/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO

I linked the best buy page on the post. I was actually looking at this amp. Let me know what you think if they will power, and any reccomendations. I want the most bang for my buck, without blowing the puppies.

Pioneer gm-d8604, and gm-8601 is around 250.

You could do a pair of skar shallow 12's and keep your back seat. You could probably step up to the pioneer 9601 and single american bass xr15 and get skull smashing clean bass without totally destroying your budget.

Subwoofer, Amp, 8 gauge cable kit, trim removal set, Fuse taps, and T-Taps

As for a guide, I just used other guides online and pieced them together. Really should have made a well-documented one when I did it, but I installed mine 6 months ago. Already forgot certain things. Just remember to look up the speaker wire colors for the back speakers before you tap into them and know that putting the power cord through your firewall from your battery is going to be a total bitch :)

Also just to clarify, the fuse taps are for the remote wire going into the amp. I tapped the sunroof fuse as it shuts on/off with the ignition (I don't have a sunroof, but it shouldn't matter if you do or not). Also also, that black cable going into my amp on the left side is a bass knob that came with the amp. That's wired all the way up into my glove box, so it can be adjusted easily if it becomes too much. The wires with kit and everything are long enough that you shouldn't need anything else, and everything tucks away in the door seem guides so nothing is showing at all.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PJ1VL8?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Equalizer:26$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004TU5R1E?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_3&smid=A1FMHNVWMGI839

2 speakers: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004S4XNEO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_4&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Amp: 46$

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Wiring: 16$


Would you mind reviewing this then? I know it's not going to make the ground shake, but it will be a lot better then an 86's stock audio, and it has room to upgrade.

I just put these in mine and they are night and day better than stock:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're plug and play so no extra wiring or anything of that nature.

I'm in the same position as you, and just posted about this yesterday. The set-up below is likely the best you're going to get on a budget, and it comes out to a few bucks shy of $400 after shipping (only one item isn't eligible for free super-saver shipping). This is what I'm going with, and I think I'll be more than happy with it.

Sub

Box

Amp

Wiring

Control Knob

Grille (not necessary, but smart)

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-Prime-channel-Amplifier/dp/B004T166L8

This one would give the best sound for both?

This is a somewhat subjective question, so I will give my opinion.

Hear it yes... feel it... meh not really. Don't have too high of expectations.

If your sub is a dual 4 ohm voice coil this amp would be a good choice for optimal performance: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BF6HX8U?keywords=rockford%20fosgate%20250&qid=1452789936&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I saw this on sale today, apparently works great with carplay, check it out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_0nuvzb86JX9GK

Check these out they are pretty inexpensive and there are lots of options: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=boss+car+stereo

I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-612UA-Single-DIN-MECH-LESS-Receiver/dp/B01CG8N0H8/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1474663449&sr=1-4&keywords=boss%2Bcar%2Bstereo&th=1

Its the best seller version but with bluetooth.

This little beauty. It’s more expensive than other line out converters, but totally worth it.

I set up a sub in my ST1 not long after getting it, it makes a big difference! There are 3 things you'll need:

• The Sub: Pretty self explanatory.
  
• The Amp: A sub is a big speaker and will need more power than a normal one, you'll need an amp.
  
• An AudioControl LC2i: Our cars dont have an output for an amp,
  the LC2i will give you the output you need. the way i did it was tapping the LC2i into the rear speaker wires and then plugging the amp into the LC2i.
  
  That all being said, id reccomend going to your local car audio shop and asking them for a reccomended, entery level sub and amp combo. if you want to do all the wiring yourself you'll need:
  
  
• 4 AUG wire, ~20 feet for positive, ~4 feet for negative.
  
• lots of speaker wire, maybe 25 - 50 feet, it never hurts to have extra.
  
• Wire ends.
  
• RCA connector audio cables, to connect the amp to the LC2i.
  
  Thats more or less my experience, its a bit of work but not bad.
  
  
  

Yes:
First swap your speakers out with something like these:
Kicker 77KICK10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS

• get 2 sets (front and back)
  Also swap the little speakers in the dash and rollbar with 77KICK25
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2UYPI
  
• again get 2 sets.
  
  Then get you a decent amp. I prefer DD Audio D4.90 amp but any quality 4-channel amp at 75w per channel is fine. The D4.90 can take line-level inputs from your 130 head unit.

Sure, you just need a line out converter. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIL0LW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AAQGybXNRFXF9

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013N0UEE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the box I have. I know it's not best to use prefabs but I don't have the means to build a box currently and anything bigger will not work in my situation in my car right now

anything else I could do to improve?

You can get something with bluetooth, aux, and USB for just over a hundered

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-X6800BT-Single-Bluetooth-Receiver/dp/B01463W1IU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451397817&sr=8-1&keywords=pioneer+head+unit+bluetooth

I've used this before for something simple for my mom. She loves it.

I'm tempted to try out the Halo LED headlights on Amazon for $120 ish.

https://www.amazon.com/TURBO-Headlight-Projection-Motorcycle-Freightliner/dp/B015WIRU2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741576&sr=8-1&keywords=wrangler+halo+led

$63 for speaker upgrades, I can't recommend it enough. I got 2 kits for both soundbar and front speakers, took me less than 2 hours to install it all myself.

https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741601&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+upgrade

Next on my wish list is the switch panel that goes on the windshield, hook all your lights into one unit.

https://www.amazon.com/Apollointech-Wrangler-Windshield-6-Switch-Assemblies/dp/B01CDTW03K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741651&sr=8-4&keywords=wrangler+switch+panel

I wanted android auto as well. Installed a sony dash. Don’t need to buy another car to have those features.

Sony XAV-AX5000 7" Apple Car Play, Android Auto, Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CB3CB1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4hJ2Db9R3P887

That amp isn't really going to give you the transient response with a passive sub with it's wattage output, especially if running all four outputs.

You'd probably be best off with the BIC. If you have the skills needed, you could possibly build a DIY with a decent/budget bare sub and something like a Rockville RPA9 bridged and using the 150hz crossover.

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-W12K6D4-V2-Subwoofer-Compliant/dp/B07BMMS1LJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642739&sr=8-1&keywords=rockville%2Bsubwoofer%2Bcea%2Bcompliant%2Bk9&th=1

with this;

https://www.amazon.com/Rockville-RPA9-Channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B06XDRZD3D/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536642824&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=rockville+rpa9&psc=1

And this;

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=twister_B01MQQB9D9?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

would give you a hell of a lot of bass for around $300.

But that's ultimately up to you.

I can't seem to find the 1.5 cubic feet box. Would this one work?

Also, which would be better: Alpine SWS-12D2 or Alpine SWS-12D4

And what size of amp should I get?

Not sure if you're onboard will be able to drive them to their potential.

The FiiO E11 will certainly drive your 50ohm headphones.

If you're looking for something a little more robust looking and desktop oriented, the FiiO E9 will drive most any headphone out there.

I had been looking at this [Sony](http://www.Sony.com/ XAV-AX100 6.4" Car Play/Android Auto Media Receiver with Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MF9W0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sqJEAbGVBM331) unit on Amazon until I heard the new kenwood and jvc models will support wireless Android auto. Those were announced at CES last month.

$ 34 US free shipping- not half assed

http://www.amazon.com/612UA-MP3-Compatible-Digital-Media-Receiver/dp/B004S50WPG

Very cheap

Is this the E07K + E09K combo? (http://www.amazon.com/Fiio-E07K-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00A9LHLQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417724915&sr=1-1&keywords=fiio+e7 + http://www.amazon.com/E09K-Output-Desktop-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B008J26ZL4/ref=pd_sim_e_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0H50ZT2069A3FRNX3AXW ?)

If so... Do they come with original packaging? I'm assuming 8-9/10 cosmetic condition and 10/10 functionality?

this would be better for the money . i would spend more and the lc2i

If you plan on installing yourself, Amazon is the place. Just don't skimp on the amp quality (thermal protect and fuses) or wiring, or you could have an electrical issue on your hands and be up shit creek without a warranty. Happened to me when I bought an MTX amp off ebay years ago and it failed and smoked my subs simultaneously.

Do you plan on having a full-range amplified system? If not, you might wish to stay in the same price range but perhaps get a different sub with more modest power handling (600wrms/1200peak) that will give you more musical tightness without a boom that drowns everything else out. I personally like the RF P3D4-12 and would pair it with a P500X1bd . In some cases, if you buy a RF wiring kit, and have it installed by an RF authorized dealer, you'll get a 2 year warranty on everything.

Recently bought these and installed myself. Good bang for your buck!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AFxK9E69ocMMo

SUB : https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R1S4-10-Prime-Subwoofers/dp/B00HFXLSPG/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543553243&sr=8-10&keywords=2+10+inch+subwoofers

BOX : https://www.amazon.com/Nissan-2003-2008-Subwoofer-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEBYBC/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1543553132&sr=8-10&keywords=350z+subwoofer+box

AMP : https://www.amazon.com/Watts-Mosfet-Monoblock-Amplifier-R1100M/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543553262&sr=8-3&keywords=boss+amp


Would the sealed box affect why it does that as well?

>JL 500/1

That amp accepts 8V max speaker level. Pretty friggin low, even without a factory subwoofer amp output. An $89 Pioneer head unit can output more than that. I'm not kidding.

Use an LC2i

https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU

My favorite ddin until the current excelon stuff.

I have a [pioneer] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLFM596/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_zHh6wbD89X5A8), I wanted the sub I purchased because I was under the impression that I could get a sealed box. That wasn't true, sonic electronics had incorrect info listed. I was going to purchase a sealed box for the new sub since I'm getting credit for the return. I've never used the sub

For $500 I would go:

Morel $150

Phoenix Gold $130

Amp Kit $40

Fastrings $25

CLD $25

Audio Control $87

Total- $457

Dream car or not everything can go to next install except cld and Fastrings.

I got them from Amazon. As per usual, you probably wouldn't find them that cheap in a normal store. My car ('94 civic coupe) took a pair of 6.5's in the front doors and a pair of 5.25's in the rear deck. Your accord might have 6x9's in the rear deck. If this is the case, your price will be a bit higher.

Looking at Amazon right now, the prices are a little higher than when I bought them.
Polk DB651 - 6.5" Pair - $65

Polk DB621 - 5.25" Pair - $64

Polk DB691 - 6X9 Pair - $88

It's a prefab. This one. https://www.amazon.com/E12SV-12-Inch-Single-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013N0UEE/ref=sr_1_1?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1486184286&sr=1-1&keywords=Atrend+bbox+12. Would you suggest I find someone local to build me a custom box rather than a new amp? I primarily listen to rap. Thank you.

These JEEP WRANGLER JK KICKER SPEAKER UPGRADE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OQwBwb56MGN5T they are plug and play with no need for an adapter.

this amp is what I need to power, I double checked the dyno and it’s 190, I have a bunch of OFC 16 gauge speaker wire and about 6-8 ft of OFC 4 gauge, I was hoping I could use the 16 gauge

I've been looking at this on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8B7CFS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1GRTT9GHGRY0B

I really like the minimal look of the interface.

Pioneer AppRadio 4 SPH-DA120

This is probably the most(only?) reputable aftermarket brand that offers Apple Car Play.

So just to make sure, I can just buy the basic wiring harness, the proper dashkit, and that basic BOSS stereo and I'll be fine? I want to make sure because my bullshit detector was going off when he told me I absolutely needed it, and that the BOSS stereo was not compatible with my stereo, and had the gall to stick to his guns when I told him the stereo that had just had been stolen was an 11-year old basic BOSS stereo.

Once again, I plan on buying this Boss stereo, and this dash kit and wiring harness for a completely stock 2004 Acura RSX. If that looks good, just let me know and I'll order it right now. And of course, I won't be going to Fry's (despite my friend having an employee discount) since the guy that lied to my face is the only one certified to install car audio.

I actually ended up going with a $15 phone mount :p definitely still considering upgrading in the future though

My eyes are still set on this slick little number here.

I'm trying to connect a FiiO E09K -- with active speakers and a sub -- to a Yamaha RX-V675 receiver via RCA cables. Is this possible, and if so, which connection do I use?

I am looking for something similar as well, and although I have no experience with this one, it looks nice:

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SPH-DA120-Capacitive-Touchscreen-Smartphone/dp/B00O8B7CFS/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1462902699&sr=1-5&keywords=android+auto

The SQ amp is $210, but I found a Rockford Prime 750 on Amazon for $192 (every little bit helps).

I also found an ATrend enclosure with identical specs to the one recommended on the SQ website for $65 instead of $141, HERE.

What do you think?

EDIT: I added some more amps to my OP.

I have $300 on Amazon so I could add a couple hundred if needed but now I'm only thinking about 1 sub. I'd say $300-$400 for all of the equipment and then installation is separate.

I'm thinking of Rockford P3 600W for the sub, 12 in. Ported Enclosure as the box, and Zapco Mono Class d for the amp.

Would this work alright or should I get a different amp for only 1 sub? Also, should I get the 2 ohm sub or the 4 ohm sub? Let me know what you think.

here is a 4 channel for some what cheap: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R400-4D-Full-Range-4-Channel/dp/B004T0WFVE

and a mono: http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1404874825&sr=1-1&keywords=500.1d+rockford

you will need to make sure that sub you buy is final impedance of 2 ohm.

This is the amp I ordered and this is the sub. Since I first made this post, I was able to switch my order to get the 4Ω DVC version of the same sub. Now both will be running at 250W RMS, so it should all work out fine.

There are three types of "Android" headunits:

• a) You buy a headunit that runs full Android (usually 6.0, 7.0, or newer). This headunit will have a laucher designed for use inside a car, and a set of installed apps that will let you use FM Radio, GPS (sometimes with integrated maps), videos, music, etc. If you don't like these apps, you can open the Play Store from that device and download the apps that you like as if the headunit were a tablet or a phone. This is an example of this kind of headunit. You don't need to connect your phone to the headunit.
  
  
  
• b) You buy a new car o a headunit that supports Android Auto, like this one. This headunit doesn't run Android, it has its own Operating System and a USB port. To use Android Auto, you need to install and configure the Android Auto App ON YOUR PHONE and then connect your phone to the headunit with a USB cable. The headunit will show a warning asking you if you want to start Android Auto and if you agree, the headunit's screen will show Android Auto start menu. All the function, files and data comes from your phone to the headunit screen.
  You can't customize how it looks or behave, and you can only use the apps that are allowed to run by Google.
  
  
• c) You buy a new car but it doesn't support Android Auto. Instead of it, your car runs a customized android called Android Automotive that only run in car's infotainment systems. This is very rare today.
  

The biggest buyers remorse for me was the 730 Nav/XM radio with the hard drive. Jeez does that thing suck. I'm not kidding, it was a $1895 option and is worse than anything I've ever encountered. The XM sound quality is terrible - generally flat regardless of setup. The NAV functions cause instant rage trying to input a location, and of course they want $200 two years later to update the maps. The only thing that sounds halfway decent is playing high bitrate MP3s, but only after I replaced the garbage factory speakers with higher end units.

Basically, you could replace every single function the in-car entertainment system does with a cheap cell phone, and have it all done much better.

The second option is closest to recommended specs

Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.

Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.

Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!

That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.

Edit: Link

Not super cheap but the Rockford Fosgate 400 4D is a 400 watt 4 channel that runs my JBL 6x9s. About $140 to $160.

Here's an Amazon link for $142:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004T0WFVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q8uUzbQ3Q9ENF