Reddit mentions: The best car battery accessories

I know this was posted over a month ago, but if you haven't moved forward here are my thoughts and experience. I will agree with most of what @jgpatty says, but I have had less problems

Install/DIY - As long as you have basic diy skills these are easy to install and the instructions are very straight forward. You will need a good drill and bits, square/measuring tools, and marking devices that is about it.

My Experience - I have installed 3 of the Mighty Mule Gate openers over the years, and was very happy with them. I find them to be very reliable. I have installed two of the m500 models at my own house. 6 years ago I installed the first M500 after after about 5 years something broke on it, BUT that is completely my fault. I neglected my gate (not the opener) it was having a bunch of problems. The hinges I installed were not very good and the post I put in was just a 4x4 which caused the gate to sag and drag on the ground. I tried adding a wheel to the gate, but in the cold weather (north east ohio) the wheel would freeze up and drag on the ground as well. Anyways after about 3 or 4 years of that the opener gave out. I am honestly surprised it lasted that long the gate was putting a ton of strain on it.

So Anyways this summer I removed my old wooden gate/post threw it all out and built a custom 5 x 5 metal post and metal gate with some good hinges and decided just to install a new opener instead of fixing the old one. Every works great

Solar Powered - The other one I installed at my parents farm. Due to the location and distance from 110v power I decided to go solar. We are in North East Ohio which has some of the most cloud coverage in the USA, and the worst rate for solar panels. I put in just one solar panel like they suggested, but in the winter they had problems with low battery, so I added a 2nd solar panel which is easy. You just splice/wire it up to the other panel and you have more charging capacity

Competition - The 2nd time around at my house I considered going with a Liftmaster/Chamberlain option because I have 3 of their garage door openers at my commercial building and they are great. For like $40 you can add an internet gateway that controls up to 16 openers, switches, lights, etc and they connect to home automation hubs as well. They mobile app/website tells you if they are opened or closed and for how long, you can get notifications, etc. BUT in the end the price was more than doubled so I passed on that. I looked into and read a ton of reviews on Aleko and Ghost controls who seem to be knocking off Mighty Mule, and the prices are a little better. But the reviews were not as consistent as mighty mule and since I had good experiences I decided to stay with them. I will say Aleko accessories are good and I have used a bunch of those

Tips & Tricks

Hinges - BUY A GOOD GATE HINGE. Your opener will last so much longer. And a gate hinge is only worth while if it has a grease fitting on the bottom. There are some great weldable ones on amazon for like $15 or $20 for a set. If you don't want to weld them on then you can get these aleko ones for like $11 a piece (they don't come as a set). I welded those ones on, but you can bolt them on as well

Solar Panels - If your gonna go solar install two panels unless you rarely use it or live in the south in a very sunny area. Also it is cheaper to buy the standard opener and just get the solar panels separate and hook them up. There is no difference between the standard opener and the solar opener it is just a bundle. For panels it is cheaper to go with Alekos panels. On Amazon you can get Aleko panels that are twice as powerful for half the cost. Might mule 10w is $99, and Aleko 20w is $45

Extra Batteries For Solar - If your not running solar the standard backup battery might mules sells for $25 is perfect, but It isn't necessarily cheaper but you do get a lot more bang for your buck if you go to home depot and get a deep cycle marine battery as an extended battery. You can then put the next to the post in the ground using one of these on amazon for like $10 - Waterproof Battery Box . That is what I did for my solar install. You wire the Solar panels to the large battery and then hook the large battery up to the main mighty mule battery or the extra battery hookups if your model has that. Make sure to use fuses :)

Mighty Mule Gate Lock - For $120 I was not impressed from a security perspective. If your gate is solid (wind can't penetrate it) then this serves a nice purpose of taking stress off the hinges, gate opener, post, brackets etc. Because a solid gate is pretty much a sail, But from a security stand point it is just too easy to bypass. The latch is just spring loaded when locked. You can stick a screw driver in there and release it. Also the retaining pin the bolt that the latch attaches to can be removed without tools and then the lock is attached to nothing. If you really want security use an aftermarket outdoor magnetic lock. They are about $60 to $80 on amazon and can be used on a mighty mule using the gate lock wiring. There is a little more DIY here. You have to put a separate circuit board in the enclosure for the magnetic lock

Keypad & Post - Don't bother hard wiring the gate keypad. It makes it a less secure system and then you have a run a wire. Using it wirelessly the batteries last more than a year with regular use. And when I say it make sit less secure all someone has to do it rip the wire out of the back of the keypad and push the two wires together to open the gate. Buy the Aleko keypad Post on Amazon. It is $35 vs the mighty mule $85

Inside or Fixed Location Opener Button - You can hardwire a garage opener style button that allows you to open the gate from inside the house, garage etc. It is cheaper and so much faster to just take a regular mighty mule clicker ($20), remove the clip from the back, and run a screw through the keychain hole to mount it to the wall of your house. it looks nice and mine worked for 5 years on the same battery with daily use.

> but at that rate I'm better off charging my batteries with my diesel's alternator

Yep. I frequently ask people on this sub why they think solar is so important when they're driving around in something that generates electricity already. Solar is expensive. It doesn't work in Seattle except for three weeks in August. Unless you're in the desert southwest, you need to have sufficient battery capacity for multiple days without sun which means you need an even bigger solar panel array to recharge that battery pack on the 2 sunny days during a two week period of overcast and showers.

Unless the van is parked somewhere for days and days without moving, just charge the house battery from the alternator. Even if it's parked on a sunny day, there's a huge incentive to park it in the shade to prevent the interior temps from killing anyone inside.

Using the alternator is easy. The absolute brute force, quick-n-dirty, cheap way is to run a #2 or #4 gauge wire from the positive terminal of your your van's battery to the positive terminal of your house battery through a simple switch and a high capacity (100A) fuse.

Under $10 crude switch from any auto parts store: https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS/ You use this to 'disconnect' the wire between the batteries when you park. This prevents that 60W fan you're running 24/7 from running down your starter battery. Get a better switch as your budget allows.

Better is an 'isolation relay' - there are two basic kinds. The inexpensive kind https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JCX8OY/ requires that you also find a 12v power source that goes active when your ignition is turned on. This powers the relay to connect your house battery to the alternator/starting battery. It's not a big deal, but possibly a small hassle. Any Napa, Reibes, Pep-Boys, Autozone, etc auto parts place will have one.

Or, an automatic type that senses when the voltage on your starter battery rises due to the alternator and then automatically connects your house battery so it gets charged, too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ You take the 12v cable from your van battery to one terminal. The 12V from your house battery to the 2nd terminal. And, the last terminal goes to ground.

BTW, I wasn't trying to 'burn you' but rather put some realism into your needs. At least you didn't mention electric heater or electric air conditioning like some folks do. For heating or cooking, gas/propane is the practical way to go. (There are some great, BUT EXPENSIVE, diesel heaters that can tap into your van's fuel system).

For air conditioning, there isn't any van-sized alternative other than a gas powered generator or an electrical outlet near the van.

Good choice on the fridge. And, you're right - it's not a 'now' sort of requirement.

Those battery powered LED things last forever. If you haven't bought any yet, try to get ones with diffusers - intentionally stay away from the brightest ones you can find. The issue is that in the small confines of a van, they just sear burn marks in your retinas. 'dimmer is better' I have these - multi brightness, magnetic stick on to my van's metal interior: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H731UNS/

I got the non-rechargeable ones but use Amazon Basics Eneloop- equivalent rechargeable AAA batteries: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-AAA-Rechargeable-Batteries-12-Pack/dp/B007B9NXAC/ and a USB recharger for them sort of like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PZ6V99U/

I have one of these. You do not want this 2 ft from your eyes in a van: https://www.amazon.com/BUYGO-11-LED-Outdoor-Lantern-Camping/

For camping, a small led light bar should be able to run during your waking-but-after-dark hours without needing an additional battery, assuming you occasionally start the car if it's an extended multi-night camping trip. However, a nice coleman lantern may be a better option given the cost of a dual battery setup.

If you are serious about dual batteries, I would strongly suggest an AGM type battery (oddysey pc1500 or similar, as mentioned elsewhere in this thread) and I personally prefer an automatic disconnect, over a hardwired or "manually switched" dual battery setup. I've had good success in the past with this one: https://amzn.com/B00LMGPHW2

Also, there are kits on the market now for jk/jku's that have the same smart isolator in them. genesis offroad has one. The kit is nice, but really, it's the isolator that does all the magis. they just sell you a nice mounting kit that is prewired for easy setup.

This particular smart isoloator also has a momentary switch option where.. if your cranking battery is low and can't start your vehicle, you can press a button and connect both batteries for 60 seconds, effectively jumpstarting yourself.

Manual selecter switches.. I've found I always forget to change the setting, and either.. never disconnect the two batteries when I should, or I forget to reconnect them for charging later meaning one battery is always really low. so I've personally given up on manual switches.

(Since this reads a lot like an ad now, let me just say.. I have no affiliation with cole hersee, other than having a great deal of success with that product I linked. I've run dual battery setups in several vehicles, and this is my personal preference. but like all opinions.. everyone has one, and none of them are "wrong" as long as it works for that person)

Other people mentioned the Battery Tender adapter, which is great.

This guy did a great review on some Bonneville upgrades, and the charger set up he did is excellent.

https://ericwais.wordpress.com/2015/06/20/day-21/

I am pretty sure this would mount on a ST just the same. I use this on a 60 mile round trip commute and its great. Good visibility and it keeps everything charged.

Basically get these:

Arkon Case

Tender Adapter

Battery Tender Harness

And a small piece of velco with glue on it to hold the adapter/cord to your bike when not in use.

Do you really commute 200 miles a day? Or is that just a fun trip you have planned?

Have you wired... anything before? You'll need to be able to terminate wire to do it, but that's not too big a deal. There's also a bunch of different ways to go about it, depending on who you talk to. My preferred method goes something like this:

Acquire parts:

• 4 gauge copper stranded, jacketed wire of appropriate length to reach from starter to house battery, plus a little wiggle room, plus another section to go from house battery to frame.
  
  
• an in-line fuse holder to go right off the starter battery positive
  
  
• another fuse holder for the house battery, I like to use a triple-fuse holder, but you can just use another in-line like the one above.
  
  
• 100 amp fuses for both
  
  
• 4 gauge ring connectors/lugs.
  
  
• some sort of isolator. Basic-tier manual, a dual-battery manual switch (intermediate), or something more automatic, like a voltage sensitive relay.
  
  If you can't work out another good way to crimp the ends on, just pick up a crimp tool along with it.
  
  Plan:
  
  You need to create a circuit from the alternator to the house battery. Circuits are loops; in a DC circuit (as most are on a vehicle), the magic power fairies have to come from the power source via the positive terminal, through the thing they're powering, then return back to the negative terminal of the thing they came from. Most vehicles use the body and frame as the return path for the fairies. The devices' negative sides all connect to the body or frame, and so does the battery or batteries, so once they get to a device, they can always get back to where they came from, whether they came from the alternator (grounded through the engine block/bracket), starter battery, or house battery.
  
  Next, you need to consider where each component will live. You need to connect positive to positive from starter to house battery, with all the other doo-dads in between. The fuse holders should be very close to their respective batteries. Like, less than a foot. I lay my starter battery's fuse right on top of the battery, so anyone working on the van later can't miss it, and should know to consider the rest of that circuit when appropriate. My starter battery's fuse is mounted right next to the battery. The placement of the isolator depends on what kind it is. If it's a manual type, you'll need to access it from within the cabin; I like to put my house battery and a manual isolator pretty close behind the driver's seat, so I can operate the switch from there or from within the cabin. If you go with an automatic jobber like the VSR I linked, that doesn't need accessed again except for troubleshooting, so it's common for it to be mounted near the starter battery in the engine bay. Either way, the wire will go from starter battery positive, through a fuse, through the isolator or VSR, through the house battery's fuse, to the house battery positive.
  
  
  
  There's two types of connections to make with the linked items: "set screw" and "lug". The fuse holders I linked all use set screws, and everything else will use lugs. To make a lug connection, you strip back the wire jacket from the end of the wire just enough so the remaining copper strands fit into the sleeve (and only the sleeve) on the lug, then crimp it down. The lug then gets a bolt through it to make its connection. There is typically already a bolt on the starter battery terminal somewhere, and this is where it will go, though both batteries' terminals will vary in their format. You may need an extra doo-dad to make it right. For a set screw type connection, you strip back the wire jacket as before, back out the set screw, put the wire in its hole, then tighten it into place with the set screw.
  
  Installation:
  
  Snip off a foot of 4 Gauge wire, remove the fuse from the inline fuse holder, then set-screw the wire into one end. The other end of the wire gets a lug, and goes on the starter battery positive. From the other end of the fuse holder, route it to a VSR (if applicable; install its additional ground wire to one of its mounting screws, into the body), then on to the house battery location. Here, it will go through a manual isolator switch (if you don't choose the VSR), then through a fuse, and on to the house battery positive terminal. The negative terminal of the house battery gets connected to the van body or frame with a couple lugs on as short a wire as possible; a seat or seat belt hole is typically a good ground lug - just remove the bolt, add your lug with wire already crimped on, and reinstall the bolt.
  
  Once all connections are made, you can go back and insert your fuses. If you chose the dual-battery switch, it has 3 lugs on it: a "common" lug, battery A, and battery B. The wire coming from the starter battery goes to battery A, the wire going to your house battery goes to battery B lug, and the common lug is for your load (aka, your devices). The switch has 4 positions: "A","B","Both", and "off". You can set it up other ways, but in this configuration, the first two select which battery power is drawn from for the devices connected to the "common" lug, the "both" setting literally chooses both, which means it also is the setting for charging your house battery, and "off" ensures the devices get no power from either battery, and that the batteries aren't connected to one another.
  
  Manual isolator operation:
  
  With the engine running, turn the simple isolator "on", or the dual-battery switch to "both". This connects the batteries, which connects the alternator to the house battery. If the alternator can charge it, it will (see "Caveats" below). When you stop running the engine, and want to run devices without draining the starter battery, turn the simple isolator "off", or set the dual-battery switch to "B". If you go with a VSR, this happens automagically for you, and you can forget I typed this paragraph.
  
  Caveats:
  
  The house battery isn't as close to the alternator as the starter battery. This introduces resistance to it, which comes with voltage drop. The alternator has a voltage regulator in/on/near it that senses the voltage of the battery (or batteries) it's connected to, and if that voltage is lower than its setting, it will kick on, and start charging, typically at or above 13.8V, maybe 14.1. An idle, full battery will read closer to 13V. A 12V battery is actually dead if it gets down to 12V; anything running on 12V accepts all these voltages, and so these systems are considered to run on "12V nominal", which is a range including all these. Anyways, from the perspective of the alternator or house battery, there is less voltage present on the far end than from the near end, due to the voltage drop over distance in the wire. So, the house battery never sees full charging voltage from the alternator, and therefor may never fill all the way up. Measure voltage at the starter battery while the engine's on and alternator's charging, then measure it again at the house battery. The difference between these two is your voltage drop, which should be in the 1-3% range. More or less, this is how short of full you can get your house battery only charging from the alternator.
  
  If you choose a manual isolator, you will get the most charging output possible from your alternator, and you can throw the switch to "jump start" yourself if your starter battery should die, but you might forget to turn the switch one day, and accidentally drain your starter battery. I simply make checking the state of the switch part of my van start-up and shut-down routine, and have only had a problem once. If you instead go with an automatic isolator or VSR, you won't have to worry about this, but your charging rate will be limited by the rating of the device chosen, if its rating is below the alternator's rating.
  
  Your power distribution to your loads still needs additional fusing. If you use the dual-battery switch, most loads should come off the common lug, through a fuse, and on to the devices. If not, then connect them from the starter battery, through a fuse, and on to the devices. Many people install a fuse block with multiple fused circuits to go to various devices; it needs a fuse in its feed that is as large as all the other fuses combined.
  
  Wondering why I linked a triple-fuse holder? It's a neat sort of junction for the house battery's positive terminal, where everything connecting needs fused anyway, and these particular fuses can need to be quite large, though different sizes. 100A alternator charge, 50A+ load distribution, 30A+ solar charge, or the big ol' honkin inverter I tend to install on my builds.
  
  

> You state that your batteries are in series but that would make this a 24V system and you only have a 12V inverter. I think you meant they are parallel. They appear to be parallel in the photo as well.

Thank you for the observation. I've updated the page.

> Also though you have sealed batteries, they should be isolated from the other electronics incase they burst leaking acid and hydrogen gas.

I was under the impression that AGM batteries did not leak unless punctured or dropped. Would putting each battery in a container like this and let the airflow push the air out of the main container be enough?

> ...the inverter should be a larger fuse though, likely more like 60a if not 80a.

While I was testing the inverter capacity I blew its internal 40 am fuse, So i figured using a 40 am breaker would be enough. if I increase the breaker to 60 or 80 as you described, wouldn't that allow the internal inverter fuse to blow again?

> The wire you have appears to be too small for the inverter amp draw.

I am using AWG10 for these connections. Others have also mentioned that this may not be think enough. Would going to a size 6 be enough?

Thanks very much for your feedback, by the way! I'm still learning but all the comments and suggestions help a lot!

I feel you friend. I also went camping but did take one of those car jump all in one batteries along with a 12 volt power adapter for my machine. it had worked the previous camping trip for about three to four days just fine. But this time, it died at 1 a.m. the first night and I was awake the rest of the night. I simply cannot sleep without my cpap at this point. The rest of the trip was a misery, next night slept in the passenger seat of my Prius with the CPAP plugged and car on (on but not running). trying to sleep in a seat sucks, but the car turned itself off every hour so it was hardly any better than that first night. I believe the next night I slept in the bed of a truck with a CPAP plugged in in the truck (again, on but not running) through the little back window and it worked much better. Until it rained.

So the NEXT camping trip I got my shit together.

Get a deep marine battery. These are designed to power small things on a boat and are used to the small dribble of electricity over a long period of time. Get a battery box to place it in for safety, and a battery tender to charge it before the trip. You'll want a ring terminal harness to attach to the battery posts, and a female 12 volt adapter to plug your machine into.

The box contains everything safely with just the plugs you want sticking out the slots in the lid, but if there's small children in the camp you may want to ratchet strap it closed to be on the safe side.

I got battery and box at my local walmart. The rest from Amazon.


Female cigarette adapter:
Battery Tender Black 081-0069-8 Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_173UCbVCXJH0M

Ring terminal harness:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7-3UCbPET1K8N

Battery tender to charge your battery:

Battery Tender 12 Volt Junior Automatic Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ak4UCbQYJBZCA

And of course you'll need to get the 12 volt power adapter. Look up the model maker of your CPAP machine and Google away to see where you can find one. I looked for my manual and then I found the one that was recommended in the manual along with recommendations. Mine recommends I do not use the water chamber when using the 12 volt power adapter due to power consumption and no way am I risking the battery running out of power before the trip is over. I got the adapter from a generic CPAP supplies website.

Good luck! I'm going camping this summer I hope my setup still works!

I usually camp out of state with family and have a few nights in a house before heading home. I always bring a new face mask new filter and even a new hose if I have one as after camping the machine reeks of woodsmoke and it drives me absolutely batty.


Edited to fix oh so many typos.

PS: I will edit the links more pretty when I'm on a desktop sorry about the non pretty formatting

You are right about needing in the neighborhood of 50 AH (ResMed battery guide @ https://www.resmed.com/us/dam/documents/articles/198103_battery-guide_glo_eng.pdf if you haven't seen it yet).

The 12 volt scooter batteries are usually 35 AH so that's close but not quite. Two linked together would do it, or look at the 12v 55AH SLA batteries (example https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00K8V2LZI). I like the AGM/SLA batteries better than the regular deep cycle because they are sealed (non-spillable) lead acid instead of flooded.

Then just make sure you order the ResMed DC adapter and you should be good to go. It might be nice to have a cigarette adapter with eyelet terminal instead of the alligator clips version that comes with the ResMed DC adapter, here's one for example https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y.

I like that jumper unit! I’ve been looking at this myself

I honestly hadn’t thought of TP - I have some regular old tissues in a box but didn’t consider TP, so I might just add it in! Costs nothing and is pretty light, so why not. Ditto for the coolant - thought of the oil, because Subaru - hadn’t thought of the coolant. Gonna get some and keep!

On the extinguisher, I’m seriously considering one because even if it might not be useful to save my own butt at some point, it could be useful to save someone else’s and that kinda makes it worth carrying. I’m intrigued by your spare mount setup and how you’ve attached the axe and shovel on the hatch - do you have any pictures to share how that looks like?

This is a cool little website that helps to design solar systems and battery banks. Since you have 12V batteries and a 12V inverter, you'll need to wire the batteries in parallel, this will add their capacities and keep the voltage the same. When wiring these together it is important to keep the wire length between batteries the same, this is because there is resistance in the wire, so if one battery wire has more resistance than another, then it will draw a bit more power to equal the other battery and over time this can cause issues. This website explains the wiring issues and shows a little diagram of how you should wire your four batteries for your specific case.

So you can use the first website to show how the battery bank should be wired, and use the second website to see how to correctly wire it. Buying wires like this will mean they're already at the same length, but you may only need 8awg or 6awg wire for your purposes (look at wire gage sizing charts). For my two-battery bank I'll be crimping my own connectors onto wire from the hardware store that I cut into equal lengths, usually a cheaper option is to just make your own sets. A forum about a guy asking about battery wiring.

Fusing is also important, you don't want an accidental short happening in your inverter and your 6Kwh battery bank dumping hundreds of amps into it. Again there are many websites offering advice, this one is what I based my fusing off from, I'm only using one solar panel though so I'm only needing one fuse for that. Smaller ones for the solar panels and bigger ones for the batteries and to the inverter I believe the best way is to fuse each battery and then fuse the entire bank as well 5 fuses total). Slow-burn fuses are recommended.

Basically I would say use www.Google.com as a strong resource and post further questions you might have that you can't find the answers to (or can't find simple answers to).

Many battery maintainers use the Battery Tender style of harness, like this item. It's nowhere near 4 or 6 gauge, more like 14 gauge max (higher number = smaller wire).

If you want to use 4 gauge jumper cables that's totally OK, bigger is better. But your battery maintainer probably doesn't put out more than 1 - 2 A, maximum which is safely and easily handled by that Battery Tender harness.

> I need to take a look and see if I have the space for it under the hood (probably) but would be best if I could use a battery box in the bed of the truck.

Either way works, but it's a lot more fairly expensive wire to get back to the bed.

This is what I'm using (or something really similar): http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1416450132&sr=8-8&keywords=battery+isolator

Yeah, cheap chinese stuff. But it's been fine for a couple of years so I don't feel like it owes me anything. Expect that much more in properly sized cable and cable ends.

I had this and all the accessories on a previous plow truck: http://www.hellroaring.com/bic75150.php

It's really nice, but more than I wanted to spend for the foul weather/off road toy the new setup is on.

OK, should these things happen again, here are some things you should keep in the trunk.

A tire inflator that plugs into your cigarette lighter. It won't help much with larger leaks, but for smaller ones it'll let you reinflate the tire long enough to get to an auto shop.

If you want to plug a leak, you'll need a tire repair kit. This isn't as simple to use as the inflator (you'd want to practice or at least see it done first), but it's not rocket science either. A word of caution though: the needles used in those kits have been known to break, so don't do what that guy did at 2:48 where he was lucky not to give himself a vasectomy.

If the nail or whatever is still in the tire, then you'll need something like vice grips to pull it out. If it's not in the tire, then you'll need the inflator to push air in and some (preferably soapy) water to see pour on the tire and see bubbles where the air is coming out.

And since this kit is $6 and has plugs to fix four flats and a shop will charge you $5 to fix one, it doesn't take that long to start saving a few bucks.

A set of jumper cables. Honestly, I don't know why dealerships don't put this in every car that drives off the lot. Here's how to use them correctly. With these, you won't need to call AAA for (most) dead batteries, just find some kind soul willing to let you jump off of their car. For jumper cables there's a few things you want to look for:

• Made of 100% copper. Cheaper ones are made of aluminum or aluminum with a copper shell. Those don't work as well, and they break easier.
  
• Longer is better. After all, they're no good if they won't reach!

I'd just put the biggest marine deep cycle battery I can fit as my starting battery, (probably group 31) and get a $100 lithium jump pack in case I ran it down.

Or

You can build your own goal zero type portable battery setup for$200-400. The Yeti 400 is a 33ah 12v AGM deep cycle battery with 300w sine wave inverter and a 12v plug in. It also has features like low battery alarm, displays power usage, and comes with an AC charger. You won't save much $ making it smaller/less powerful, but it will weigh less if you'd like to use a smaller than 33ah battery.

$50-150 for an AGM deep cycle 12v battery, 33ah

$75-150 for a 300w pure sine wave inveter, you can save more money if you don't need pure sine wave or 300w, or don't mind an always on fan

$25-50 for a 12v trickle charger to charge the battery up at home, if you don't have a charger already

$15 for a male to male 12v adapter to charge it from your car, or use your jumper cables.

$10-20 for a 12v socket or two, or a USB charger socket

$10-50 for a battery case to hold the battery and mount the inverter and sockets on

$30 on misc parts like voltage display, wire, and fuses

Sure.

• Inverter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007NOUBA/
  
  
• 2 x 75Ah batteries - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZMVI46/
  
  
• Double battery box - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJ2MBRD/
  
  
• 200amp ANL fuse & fuse holder - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079ZNGCDX/
  
  
• Wiring - 1 pair of 4AWG 1ft & 1 pair of 4AWG 3ft - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071H7D7SM/
  
  
• platform stool to keep equipment safely off the ground - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072KDDS51/
  
  Should be about $750 for lots of runtime, and compatible with any pump that uses 120VAC. The only open question I have is whether the eyeletts on the battery terminals are 3/8" or 5/16" so I know which wiring set to buy. I emailed the company and waiting for a response.
  
  I used this guide to figure out what I wanted to do - https://www.tripplite.com/support/how-to-select-and-install-inverter-charger-for-sump-pump
  
  EDIT: wow thanks for the gold, kind Internet stranger!

It's kinda like trying to weigh a letter for postage with a scale set up on a trampoline full of kids. It's bouncing up and down, so it looks like the letter weight is going up and down because it doesn't have a stable reference point because it's getting noise from the power line.

Laptop, you'd have to find a DC adapter for that model of laptop. Dell used to make some, not sure about other brands. They are kinda pricey considering you already have the inverter.

For phones, there are a couple different charge technologies, but they are all USB (sort of). Normal 5v USB is limited to 0.5 amps, so it charges slow. There is a higher power 5v USB, which is I believe 1.1 amps, and then there are USB charging adapters that put out somewhere around 2 amps. 2 amps is about the limit for the cable, so to charge faster than that they have what are called 'quick charge' adapters, which operate at voltage higher than 5v, either 9 or 12v depending on the device being charged.

Most of them are wall adapters, so I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'mains charging [was] faster'. But, they do make [DC quick chargers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OSX8UC?psc=1&smid=A142BGUZC6UH73) that will charge just as fast as the wall. It will also be more efficient than firing up a 1kw inverter to step it up to mains voltage to run a 30ish watt switching power supply that converts it back down to 5/9/12v. I'm not recommending that specific model; it seems to have good reveiws but I've never used that specific one.

Just make sure your phone supports quick charge, and know that there is quick charge, qc2.0 and qc3.0. They should be backwards compatible (it would charge at the highest voltage that both support), but I'm not 100% certain on that. You'd also need some way to connect that to the battery, something like this.

Alternators give out anywhere from 60-130 Amps, depending on what model came with your van. A single 100W solar panel, laid out flat, is going to produce in the neighborhood of 80W for about 5 hours on a good sunny day, or roughly 400W per day. Even the smallest available alternator will produce twice that much energy in an hour of driving per day.

If you are going to charge your "house" battery off of your alternator, be sure you get a battery isolator circuit that will prevent your house electronics from draining your starter battery. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK

when you buy a battery tender it will come with a lead for connecting to the battery, as well as a lead that has battery clamps/clips on it for temporary charging.

this "lead" has two wires on one end and a fitting like the USB adapter in /u/afeagle1021's post (except it is the MIRROR IMAGE of that fitting). The two wires will go on your battery terminals (aka posts) via loops installed on their ends that go around the battery terminal screws, where you bike's electrical system makes it's contact with the battery.

there is an indicator for polarity on at least one of the wires, make sure it is attached to the corresponding battery terminal. then you plug your bike into the tender overnight and plug the usb adapter in when you need to power your phone when you are riding.

you might need to get creative about how you run your usb cable if you want it secured and out of the way.

Link to lead sold without tender

Link to Battery Tender Jr.

Oh wow thanks for the detailed explanation!! I have one of those basic ones like this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NCOKZQ&pd_rd_r=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E&pd_rd_w=eRr1U&pd_rd_wg=vLNJB&psc=1&refRID=FEPFCNGTVQGZ1AS6BW9E

Have you ever tried them?

I've been very happy with the Battery Tender brand. I have a friend who uses this on his boat (it's designed not to overchage).

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-1163-Solar-Maintainer/dp/B004Q83TGO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416250584&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+solar

We use a traditional (plug in) tender on my wife's car. A fairly common setup is to permanently connect the terminals to the battery and then run the leads somewhere more convenient, like out the grill or fender. It makes connecting/disconnecting a lot more convenient.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_z

Thank you! This is really helpful for me. I think I'll go with your approach of using a 12v socket USB adapter (most likely in the glove box); I don't want to risk a shoddy cable giving me problems when it's really hot/cold.

I'm relatively inexperienced when it comes to electronics/car customization, so pardon any trivial questions.

• Is a fuse tap required if there is a vacant fuse slot in the fuse box?
  
• How can I identify the correct fuse slot/amperage that I need for the dashcam (or any accessory for that matter)?
  
• Is it worth purchasing a pry tool set for running the wires?
  
• Assuming I use an "always on" fuse slot (so I'm able to use parking mode on the dashcam), is there concern that it could drain the battery?
  
• If so, are there in-line protective devices that would prevent this, or is this an altogether incredibly unlikely event? (something like this?)
  
  Shopping List:
  
  
• Fuse tap
  
  
• 12v Socket Plug
  
  
• Anker 2port USB car charger
  
  
• 15ft micro USB to USB cable

On any vehicle I buy I replace those immediately. Get some 6 gauge ring terminals off amazon (negative is 5/16 and positive is 3/8 ring diameter), a pair of military terminals and some 3/4” heat shrink (harbor freight is dirt cheap). Cut the old ones, peel back the insulation and crimp the lugs. Amazing how much better they run without the corrosion and a solid connection.

I think they have a 25 pack of ring terminals for $10ish bucks. Can use a 3/8” ring on both of you want to. Out the door for $20 and have room for accessories to be added later.

Links:

Ring Terminal

Military Terminal

I use one of these that I use to disconnect my 12V Deep Cycle RV/Marine battery from my starter battery:

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-002843011-Series-Rating-Battery/dp/B0000AYAFE/

I have it in a location where it is easy to see it so that I remember to turn it, but an automatic one like the Battery Buddy would be nice in case I forgot.

What kind of range do you want? 12V battery + adapter + Car FM adapter. Plug in your phone and you can transmit whatever audio you play. Perfectly legal under FCC Part 15 rules.

Edit: fix link

Normal, in my experience it happens. Try using these https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Anti-Corrosion-Washers-Black/dp/B01155YKF4. Make sure you dont just use water to clean it. They make battery cleaner that neutralizes the acid and helps seal the post. Or I just make a paste with baking soda and scrub it down and put one washer when I buy a car.

I might even spring for the 16' cables, I know my 20' have saved me loads of headaches. But definitely 4 guage, the only thing more expensive than a nice pair of jumper cables, is a broken shitty pair of cables, then having to buy a nice pair to replace them. Here's a link to a cheap good pair from amazon that I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Booster-Cable-Gauge-UL-Listed/dp/B00F9RNIPI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478242256&sr=8-3&keywords=4+gauge+jumper+cables

Brand, no..Your just looking for something like this. (BTW looks like they are significantly cheaper online. ~$70 is what I saw at a Sears auto center and PepBoys
http://www.amazon.com/Premium-Jumper-Booster-Cables-Tangle/dp/B00NT6ELRA/

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMLVH4E?psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ANSGU?psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/FJC-45245-Parrot-Professional-Booster/dp/B004BGXNGW/

Longer length gives you more options, thicker cable and better clamps means your not standing in the rain or cold as long.

Maybe a bit of a deviation from the root of the problem, but if you find yourself on Amazon, I highly recommend getting one of these. Unlike a pocket tester, it's built like a tank. You can roll it up and squish it in the bottom of a backpack or pocket, crush it your tail storage or leave it under your seat permanently hooked up to your battery. It's build quality and the simplicity of it's design just exudes ruggedness and reliability.

Of course an RFID transponder alarm system or battery tester will give you a more (sometimes unnecessary) accurate reading. But all I know is, every time I've glanced under my seat and seen that LED flashing between 0%-100%, I've never regretted spending that $8.95. Eh, if not you, maybe this recommendation will help someone.

Get these Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kZ.tzb78XRSC3

Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger will charge and maintain your battery so that it is ready to go when you are! It's lightweight, fully automatic and easy to use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y4.tzbARX0FQZ

They also sell them as a package at most battery stores. I can't tell by the description if the tender includes the adapter as well.

Every time you get home plug it in and leave it plugged in.

I've had this for over a year and it works great

If you buy a battery tender it comes with one of these that the usb thingy hooks right up to. I just have it hanging out the side of my bike and I can easily tuck it up under the fairings.

As echoed elsewhere... No.

To fix this, get the correct ring terminals, and crimp them on. If you don't have the crimper, use crimp/solder terminals and solder them using a torch.

Then replace that positive battery terminal with an aftermarket that will accept all of the wires appropriately, or use a military style terminal and appropriate size ring terminals.

You can get everything you need to fix this at NAPA.

If anything I've said here has confused you, please enlist the help of someone more familiar with automotive electronics.

Get something like this from your local auto parts store, or even Wal-Mart. I had a car that had corrosion issues on the battery terminals and after cleaning with a wire brush, baking soda and water (as others have stated) I put these on and they never corroded again. Cheap investment, worked perfectly.

you would connect a wire to the positive terminal of your battery using an electrical lug you can pick up from any autoparts store. Then that wire goes to a switch (need to make sure it is rated for the current.) and the other side of the switch goes to the wire that was on the battery before. Or you can buy a battery lockout switch and be done...here's one on amazon https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Sure.
Lots of people use this one which is nice because it's got all you need built in plus some fancier features out of the box.

What I use and was talking about previous is something like this and this

If you want something longer for convenience go with these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00E9ANSGU/ref=s9_topr_hm_b13xTR_g263_i1

Since this is /r/frugal though, the shorter the cable the thinner it can be and still carry the same current. So if you want to save some bucks you could go for something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ELASYIA/ref=s9_simh_hm_b13xTR_d0_g263_i1 (the 12 foot option)

Thanks for the reply. I was able to get a look at the batteries today to check the connections and noticed one seems to have been leaking. I removed it and so far the system works fine on the remaining battery.

So I'm thinking it developed a crack OR the leak is due to overcharging. How can I figure this out?

Maybe you can help me answer this question: If my batteries were topped off and then I drove for 10 hours, would my battery isolator be overcharging the batteries? And one of them finally quit?

This is the smart isolator I'm using-

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

A ring terminal harness is this product from battery tender. You can use it with battery maintainer as well as charging accessories like heated gear or a power outlet.

I don't know what conference call is, I'm assuming it's having more than 2 people daisy chained into a conversation. My riding buddies use it but I never have. Only thing I use it for is music and the occasional phone call.

My gloves are completely waterproof as I'm sure many on the market are. I wouldn't worry about a little rain unless it is a downpour where you will be riding all day.

Not hard. Do you want the super easy and lazy way?

Get a battery tender quick disconnect and then get the usb port that plugs directly into it.

Quick disconnect: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

USB port: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DJ5KEF4&pd_rd_r=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0&pd_rd_w=ANaFZ&pd_rd_wg=QpvAv&psc=1&refRID=YJ39F7M010D2BW6GZEY0

Definitely better to use a trickle charger lead with a fuse.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HHPBF46?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=E0C16K3XS36A8PZ1W1R4

You can buy a 12v fan that runs off of a cigarette charger in a car. Then you can buy a $100 deep cycle marine battery and run the fan for almost two weeks. You can also use the battery to charge your phone. All in, for less than $150, you can charge your phone and have a fan for over a week without power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003SS62PS/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLX78/

In terms of having something to charge a battery without taking the seat/unscrew everything, you could get him something like what you've linked but I would opt for a SAE connection cable. SAE connections are much more common for accessories (like chargers or USB connectors) than the BMW cigarette style.

This is what I have on my bike for battery tenders and separate USB plugs

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498076141&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+cable - $6

You could easily get him this in addition to whatever else.

edit - fixed link

I have something like this up front: https://www.amazon.com/Goodway-Universal-Motorcycle-Waterproof-Rotation/dp/B07BRR9RPM/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1550853589&sr=8-13&keywords=motorcycle+phone+mount

The cable runs under the tank all the way back under the rear seat. I cut off the ring terminals and attached this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Tender-SAE-DC-Power-Automotive-DIY-Connector-Cables-2x0-75mm-30cm-300mm/142428764913?epid=1238902560&hash=item21296a7af1:g:j6sAAOSwWxNYyOzV:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true

I also have the standard battery ring terminal that comes with the battery tender running from the battery all the way back under the rear seat as well. Basically this from the battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550854062&sr=8-6&keywords=sae+connector

The end result is you have 2 SAE connectors under the seat. One that runs to the battery and one that runs to the USB charger.

If you want to use the the charger you linked and if you already have a cable that is long enough, you can run the cable from the battery to the rear, then loop it around and run it to the front. Under the seat simply cut the red cable and just put any switch of your liking in-line: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xtoggle+.TRS0&_nkw=toggle+switch&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=293&_odkw=switch&LH_TitleDesc=0

Let me know if you want more pictures of my setup. I can snap some up (currently the bike has fairings/seat off since I am getting it re-padded).

Links to some of the things I purchased and am happy with:

Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station


Hakko FX-901/P Cordless Soldering Iron

NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal

Carviya 12V 24V Heavy Duty 16 AWG 15A 20A Male Plug Cigarette Lighter Adapter

/u/SirDigbyChknCasear is right, the Escort 8500 uses 12V according to the manual.

OP, I would get something like this 12V socket, figure out where the radar detector's power cord meets the vehicle's harness (presumably somewhere behind the dash), and splice this in there. Do it properly - either using solder and heat shrink or using appropriately-sized butt connectors. Don't just twist the wires together and slap on some electrical tape. From there, you can plug in the dash cam's power adapter and run its cable separately while still maintaining a fairly clean look. Depending on how the radar detector is turned on and off, you may want to add a switch somewhere.

If the dash cam has a power adapter that isn't just a standard "cigarette lighter" plug, then you can probably wire it in without the 12V socket adapter. I can't help more without more info.

Clean it up good then you can use anti-corrosion washers or [anti-corrosion spray](https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80370-Battery-Protector-Aerosol/dp/B000BOKML2/ref=sr_1_2? s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496404545&sr=1-2&keywords=anti+corrosion+spray) or just coat them in a heavy grease after you retighten.

The corrosion is caused by the dissimilar metals and perhaps a bit by the hydrogen gas generated when charging the battery.

Do not cut into or splice off of your wire harness. Get a battery tender pigtail that connects directly to your battery (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_-1cAzb8YDMYBC). Then use a 'Battery Tender SAE to USB adapter to plug a USB cable into (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_r3cAzbN5DASR2). This was you can charge you bike when parked for a while and have the freedom to run the USB cable to your bars for your ram mount or into your bags to charge extra gear.

Yes you can. To make it easier by negating the need to pull off the seat or panels to get to the battery, get yourself one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_1/185-9216454-3055567?ie=UTF8&qid=1449857423&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+pigtail

I recommend this if you're gonna leave it plugged in, easier than taking off the seat!

Install one of these as well as one of these and you're good to go. That is the setup I have running to my handlebars for my phone while riding. I also installed a switch so I can stop it from pulling power when parked or raining or whatever, you can see the switch glowing red under my seat.

Nice score, looks like it has a lot of potential and is near done. If i may add a suggestion, toss a cover on the positive terminal and make sure it is well insulated all the way to the starter/alternator so it doesn't short out. Maybe toss a quick disconnect terminal on the negative side so you can disconnect it if you leave for awhile, or in a hurry if something fishy is going on with your electrical system, never know when those gremlins can attack.

Well the battery is brand new now so it doesn't have any corrosion on it yet! I do need to do a better job on the terminal though. Do those little anti corrosion washers actually do anything?

This fits the "breaker or switch" suggestion perfectly and is exactly what its for, albeit a bit more expensive than a manual switch ;P

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00400IYTK/

18Ah means that it would discharge or charge 18 amps for an hour, or 1 amps for 18 hours. So doing 18Ah/1,1 amp = 13,36 hours.

That being said, the recommended minimum charging current for AGMs is about 15%-25% the capacity. So 18Ah*0,15=2,7 Amps to 4,5 Amps. For that reason, I wouldn't recommend using the 1.1 amp one for that kind of capacity.

Finally for the connectors, I'd buy this cord, cut the eyelet connectors and crimp some 16 AWG piggy-back F2 connectors instead. That way, you'll be able to plug in both the charger and your fish finder at the same time while having the Noco quick disconnect.

I'd keep the wire coming with the charger intact in case I need it to charge some other battery. The clamps are quite useful especially with the quick disconnect thing. It will keep its last setting until you change it again so don't forget to change the mode if you want to charge a car battery, you would overcharge it on the AGM setting. Just select what job you want it to do before plugging in the battery.

I got a 40ah AGM for $140 at Interstate battery not too long ago and it worked perfectly on my last tent camping trip. Got 4 nights of out it without power. No humidifier and heated tube of course. See if there is a dealer local to you. I've seen cheaper AGMs also but this is an investment if you go camping often The dealer also will charge my AGM for free every 6 mo. Get a volt meter to take charge measurements. Grab a cigarette lighter plug hardwire kit that can handle the amps you need and hardwire it to the terminals. The clamps that came with my kit are almost worthless.

They make a battery clamp that unscrews and disconnects the beg battery cable when a vehicle will be sitting for a long time. It is commonly used on motor homes and campers. Easy to pick up at most auto parts stores.

Here is one. Top Post Battery Master Disconnect Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_98GCCb732JJV6

If you're willing to pop the hood every night, something like this would make it relatively painless: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D55VM3

Leave the positive alone and disconnect the ground. Also if your are going to leave the vehicle sitting for extended periods you should get a quick disconnect. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS.

So you buy a 14$ battery box and pop a fuse on the positive lead.

I also have an AirSense 10 Autoset. The power "brick" provided with the unit is a conventional 120-240 VAC to DC converter. With the Ego Lawn Mower and Inverter you're converting electricity from DC to AC to DC. There will be substantial power-to-heat losses due to less-than-optimum efficiency of the power conversion.

Additionally, the AC output of the Ego Inverter (see manual, page 9) is limited to 150 Watts. At 120 Volts, this means that the current maximum it allows is 1.25 Amp. The maximum current demand that the AirSense 10 requires is 1.50 Amp. This is why the inverter's overheat is being triggered and it cuts power to your APAP; too much current is being demanded by the unit for the inverter's circuitry to handle.

I recommend following Resmed's Battery Guide using stand-alone, deep-cycle batteries.

I take my AirSense 10 camping and I recently purchased the following items, totaling to $205.56

1. $68.99 12V 35AH Group U1 Deep Cycle Scooter Battery
   
2. $11.36 Group U1 Snap-Top Battery Box
   
3. $45.03 Battery Tender Plus 1.25 Amp Battery Charger
   
4. $69.99 Rockpals DC Converter Compatible with S10 CPAP Series
   
5. $10.19 Battery Tender Female Cigarette Adaptor for Quick Disconnect
   
   12V 35AH batteries ship factory-charged. If used with tube heating and humidification switched off, and maximum IPAP pressure of 16 cm H2O then a single battery will last you for two 8-hour nights. See Page 7 of Resmed's Battery Guide for details of power consumption if using any of the heat settings.
   
   I hope this helps. Feel free to ask me questions.

A deep cycle battery and a battery isolator. Makes it so both batteries charge straight off the alternator, but keeps them seperate so that you can hook all your accessories up to your secondary battery and not have to worry about draining your main. The nicer ones(such as this) will charge the main battery before the secondary, and with the press of a button will temporarily join them in case your main battery is dead so that the starter can pull from both batteries. You could supplement it with a solar charger as well for longer endurance.

That one is kind of weird. It looks like you need to install that whole thing and then pull the power cord out of the car and plug it into a wall? That is weird.

I would use this instead. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1481806706&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender

It's a smart charger, from a USA company made in USA, and when you don't need it you put it away. I have three of them. One for my classic car, and one for each of my motorcycles.

Add in this https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=S7TZQJ2BZZ3NWG4KS2KV

You connect this part to the battery terminals and leave them there. When you want to plug it in, you just connect the cords from the tender to this. Plug and play. I also use this on my motorcycles. My car I just use the standard connection clamps that come with the tender.

Cheap, USA made, and works. Read the reviews.

I have a charge controller, but the door is directly attached to the battery terminals. As for the camera, I used the advice from this group and bought a car charger with USB ports plugged into this:

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y

I had to strip the wires and crimp different terminals on them since they didn’t fit on the battery bolt.

I am only aware on one user claiming there was an error and that user correlated that to his recent install of a hardwired blackvue. No real science there and highly speculative.

The way I hardwired into the 12v was simple. I bought this: NOCO GC018 12V Adapter Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

and installed on the battery terminal. It has an in line 10amp fuse and tucks away neatly under the hood. Then I ran the blackvue power cable into the car through the firewall where Tesla provides a very nice rubber plug to do so. Everything took about an hour to do (and I did it twice after doing it the first time without a fuse and it worked fine - just wanted to be extra safe)

Wait, so you want to get a C or D cell battery pack + transformer to plug a standard AC lamp into it?

That's infinitely the wrong way of doing it. The batteries won't provide nearly the life you want, a transformer would suck down power like there's no tomorrow (making the battery life even worse), and it'll be far more expensive than it has to be.

12v DC is common (boats, trailers, RVs, solar-powered systems, ect) and doesn't require a transformer to run. There's tons of batteries and appliances that run 12v and they aren't much different in price than AC appliances.

At a minimum, you'd need a 12v battery (typically lead-acid like a deep cycle, marine, or even just a regular car battery), a battery lead w/socket and a 12v desk lamp

Be sure to secure the battery, though, you don't want the tots to short circuit it.

You'll eventually need to pick up a 12v battery charger, but those things are pretty cheap, and a single charge should last a long, long time if you're only running a low power lamp off it.

Something like this?

You might want something like this for safety.

http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM318BKS-Snap-Top-Automotive-Batteries/dp/B004W5SGBO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457794361&sr=8-1&keywords=boat+battery+cover

Yes, the jumper cables. I have cursed myself so many times not having them... Cartman cables sounds like... Cartman. http://www.amazon.com/Cartman-Booster-Cable-Gauge-Listed/dp/B00F9RNIPI/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1459123126&sr=1-1&keywords=jumper+cables&refinements=p_72:1248861011&linkCode=ll1&tag=addourscom-20&linkId=58c5a476325586749eeb05523e3cebca

Battery terminal protector instead. I've had the same can for about 8 years. It has lasted many a car.
Clean the terminals and clamps with a wire brush, spray a coat of the protector on everything and add some fiber washers. I've never had terminal corrosion issues.

I have a genius boost HD.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GB70-UltraSafe-Lithium-Starter/dp/B016UG6PWE

Nah op, just buy a deep cycle battery and isolator relay to charge it off your engine. Then you can silently charge things at night etc.

Also buy
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wa9EybWJA9XPG

And any usb cigarette adapter for charging your devices off the battery.

As it sounds like you will be in cold weather here is a bonus. It seems pricey but is so effective. Temperature settings and everything.

DC12V Electric VACUUM INSULATED kettle boil cup https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4OYITE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ac9EybYMT5M1F

maybe im missing something here but my whole setup was like $250 at most. I got my deep cycle battery on offerup for $40, used this $15 isolator (bigger ones arent much more expensive), and this $20 box. Then i also added this voltage meter/usb port/ power socket to the box for $10. Then all the wiring and fuses were maybe $100 total.

I do have a shore power charger that has an in-line battery meter. I'm not sure how accurate it is though. The battery sat for 3 months, after being fully charged, in the unheated trailer in 5-15F temps. When I finally got there to connect the charger, the battery meter still read 100%. It is a brand new deep cycle battery meant for solar, but I didn't it expect to hold 100% charge all winter like that.

EDIT: The "battery monitor" I have is an in-line one on the NOCO Genius GC015 terminal connector.

So if I were to purchase something like this.

https://www.amazon.com/OptiMATE-CABLE-47-Adapter-DUCATI/dp/B00HHPBF46

Would this work to trickle charge my battery.

Maybe something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Battery-Isolator-Voltage-Sensitive/dp/B00400IYTK

Sounds like the tender harness that I've got with the in line fuse https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ for a tender.

It's a key from a battery disconnect switch.

Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-002843011-Rating-Battery-Master/dp/B0000AYAFE

Battery, case, socket, splitter, charger

While it costs more than the orion/celestron ones, the battery is of much higher quality, it's more than twice the capacity, easily replaceable parts etc.

One thing to keep in mind is that normal lead-acid batteries require charging over long periods of time. If you drain your lead-acid house batteries to 50% charge (which is the maximum for deep discharge lead-acid/AGM) it will take hours of charging to bring them back up to 100%, and many people just don't drive that many hours. That's why there is usually solar which will charge all day long.

Nowadays, you can also buy Lithium Iron batteries, which don't suffer from being part discharged, and which charge much faster. But that's a bigger up-front investment.

As for how you hook up your battery pack to the alternator - you need a smart battery isolator that first fills up your car battery, and only then switches to send charge to your house battery. To keep your voltage drop to a minimum, you need thick wires to go 18 feet (which is 36 feet total, as the number that matters is the full round trip, not just one way.)

https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Battery-Isolator-Voltage-Sensitive/dp/B00400IYTK for example.

All of the KT-8900Ds that I have looked at have a cigarette lighter adapter. You can buy an adapter to go between the battery and radio like this. Otherwise a bit of cut and splice may be in order. As long as you have an appropriately rated fuse, you can wire straight to the battery.

I can't answer all of your questions but I can say that yes the batteries should have been left on a trickle charger over the winter.
The symptoms all seem to just point to dead batteries, hopefully after charging for a couple days they'll regain their ability to hold a full charge.

As far as jump starting, I see no reason why you would not be able to, as long as your truck's battery can provide similar cranking amps.

For my merc 5.7, I use a dual purpose for starting the engine and deep cycle for boat electronics. I've got them wired with this guy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 that way both can charge when the engine is running and I don't have to worry about the boat electronics draining my starting battery.

A battery tender will lengthen the life of your battery as well. Install some permanent leads so its easy to hook up and leave it on the tender whenever its parked at home.

I built this setup recently:
https://old.reddit.com/r/bonnaroo/comments/bfy56y/mini_solar_rig/

1. $80: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GRN8Q9V
   
   
2. $139: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FNQH9R1
   
   
3. $99: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G7SCMVI
   
   
4. $7: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y
   
   
5. $11: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0746BM8ZR
   
   
6. $32: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WITWKNG
   
   A few other odds and ends brings it close to $400 total.
   
   The charger controller is overkill for the one panel, and you don't need a lithium battery necessarily, but you also have to be careful what lead acid you get as most are not built for deep cycling. You can probably get a much larger capacity solar or marine deep cycle lead acid for what I paid.

Endless Breeze Stand alone Fan

https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1472756020&sr=1-1&keywords=endless+breeze+12+volt+fan
55 ah battery
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Exell-12V-55Ah-SLA-Battery-Rechargeable-AGM-replaces-UB12550-45825/186361686
12V Plug Socket with Eyelet Terminal
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
12V Male to Male Outlet Charger Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GTOSTE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Window Vent Visors for ventilation....

I choose to keep the battery part separate. If that's what you want, here's what I got.

Battery Tender 081-0069-8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041CDPQO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Battery Tender 081-0069-6... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

i trickle charge and my battery stays in the bike. you need this. as far as getting a screwdriver in there, just use a ratchet with a screwdriver bit.

I feel like that type of switch won't hold up well. I've seen them used, not on cars, but the clamp force between them needs to be tightened. Still, it should work as intended. Might arc a bit connecting it, but what doesn't.

This is the switch I've seen used before many times.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK

Cool, I plan on using one of [these] to isolate the two. (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400IYTK/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1Z9PJN6YB119)

I must apologise I didn't think the whole cigarette lighter battery charger thing through, as it turns out this will just blow your cigarette lighter fuse, since it may be possible that the deep cycle battery would draw to much current and since cars don't limit the current that goes through your cigLight socket ( as I originally thought). You can still charge your battery through your cigarette lighter but you will have to use this thing instead and maybe this connected to the battery to be able to charge it.


So I really don't have any links to all this since this is how we used to do it with our family outings (minus the charging the battery through the cig lighter port). At this point I'm maybe confusing you and would recommend to buy Yeti Goal Zero, since I don't feel comfortable giving advice on something that I haven't personaly tried, (charge the battery through the cig lighter thingy).

I wouldn't cut the end off the fridge, I'd think just use one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R97VAZJ3VP025AT786SY

This: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QM94FQD1ZYPEYY78R4KZ

plus this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Smartphone/dp/B00DJ5KEF4

The first one has a number of accessories you can connect from a battery charger to heated clothing. The second is a usb adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Charger-Samsung-Qualcomm-Certified/dp/B01E764DXM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524747899&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+car+charger&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Adapter-Socket-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524747960&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+female+socket

I also just have one fuse, right on the output of the battery, an automotive 58V 70A MAXI fuse from Littelfuse in an inline fuse holder. There's also a 100A manual power switch from Hella and a small precharge button.

Dual battery you will at least need this:
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Dual-Battery-140A-Isolator/dp/B00400IYTK

https://www.amazon.com/Scoshe-EWFH-Single-Fuse-Holder/dp/B000KIR8M0/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y4S68RZF6CFYXAZBN52B

https://www.amazon.com/Absolute-ANL200-2-Pack-Fuses-Plated/dp/B005EUTLYW/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y4S68RZF6CFYXAZBN52B

Then its on to pwm vs mppt charge controller
and a panel and wiring.

You can use one of these https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC017-Socket-Battery-Clamp/dp/B00G8WLX78 and any old car usb charger. (Can find a cheaper and simpler at Walmart or auto parts store) with a regular old 12 volt car/motorbike battery.

Yea. Uses a wingnut thing. https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Ask your dealer if they installed one (they're not factory equipped); if they didn't , you can get one from Amazon for less than $6

https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

​

While you are figuring out what the issue is. . .

Most people can manage to install the battery tender pigtails on their own.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1487631371&sr=1-1&keywords=battery+tender+usb

Ducati battery tender

We used this battery tender to connect the wiring harness and had to replace the 3 amp fuse with a 15 from the fuse box note the manual where to find it.

This so what I have: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1539529909&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=battery+tender&dpPl=1&dpID=41GJoSjcVrL&ref=plSrch

Paired with this pigtail lead which sits in my glovebox: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

First:

Battery Tender 081-0069-6 Ring Terminal Harness with Black Fused 2-Pin Quick Disconnect Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CO2myb008ZQVE

Then connect:

Battery Tender 081-0158 Black Quick Disconnect Plug with USB Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RP2mybAQ3ZYY3

Then you just connect and route a standard USB to mini USB.

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1502911662&sr=1-7&keywords=battery+tender

I added one of these to my bike.

I then plug in one of these to charge my phone.

I much prefer the modular setup as I can plug in other accessories to the same port, such as my tire inflator. However one of the direct to battery usb chargers may be cheaper.

Upvote. If you're not getting it fixed right away, this will ease some of your headaches. I prefer this style, but to each their own. http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Battery tender junior.

Tuck a quick connector harness under the seat and you'll be golden.

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001N729FS/ref=pd_aw_sim_auto_2?refRID=1GHJA1JCE9CTZC5R36SK

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

This and the clamps come with the Battery Tender I bought. I have the connector on at all time and tucked under the pillion seat. You can also get cig and usb connector for it too.

You mean one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Ask your dealer if that $150 includes KY or whether that costs extra, too. If you can open a can by yourself, you can install one in about 5 minutes. You just need a wrench (or socket) that fits the nut on your car's battery terminal (the black wire that attaches to the battery).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0748GKHZ8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115896&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=80w+folding+solar&dpPl=1&dpID=51GlBo5rIvL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K8E0WAG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115963&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=35ah+battery+deep+cycle&dpPl=1&dpID=51TNL6zn1RL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518115996&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12v%2Bbattery%2Bsocket&dpPl=1&dpID=511ZvmcpmsL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

I thought of getting the yeti 150. But went with this instead due to 2-3x capacity, and cost. The only thing i didn't get was an inverter, which i don't need

Any bike you want.

I have mine hard-wired to the fuse box (on only when ignition) - I did not use a kit, rather used a piggy back fuse thingy and this for pluggin it in (cut the red-end to attach it to the tap-fuse end).

It is more stable/better quality than the kits... and has an inline fuse for added protection.

I use one on my bikes. I've seen my battery get low if I'm running a lot of lights or use my E-start a few times on a short trip. It definitely extends the life of a battery.

If you get one buy one of these too:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_45gNzb60665XK

It's a harness that you attach to your battery, and you can put the quick connector somewhere so you don't always have to remove your seat. On my dirt bikes, I put them behind my air box door next to the air box, so I can access it within seconds.

Battery Tender makes a quick disconnect plug. I have one on my bike that I use to connect the tender. You screw it onto the battery terminals. I also have a USB plug that I can connect to it and charge phones, cameras, whatever.

There are also These I've got them on a few vehicles, very handy just a 1/2 turn or so and the battery is disconnected. They're installed on the negative side and work very nicely.

You start with one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G8WLW2Y/

Then your second battery has a socket to plug in things. Use the double headed cable to connect your battery to the vehicle cigarette lighter.

The vehicle cigarette lighter wire is small, too much resistance, not a good way to charge.

Sorry bro, on the other coast... WA state.

I added a [pigtail] (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465948574&sr=1-5&keywords=pigtail+sae) and got one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465947776&sr=1-4&keywords=sae+adaptor) to get USB charging capability.

That is a terrible battery box. The acid will eat the box. They make acid proof plastic battery boxes. With provisions for straps. Just make sure you buy a battery box for the correct size of battery.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM318BKS-Snap-Top-Automotive-Batteries/dp/B004W5SG6Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496187688&sr=8-2&keywords=battery%2Bbox&th=1

Thanks to this thread, just put this on my bike:

USB Connector

Tender receiver

Have my phone in a case on my bars to run as a speedo/map/GPS tracker. No more limited distance.

No, they haven't. I don't think. Not the original owner. Don't get me wrong, there is space, but not a whole lot. I might be able to pull it off. What posts would you say? I was looking at these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QRTZR0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3SY7P2NFH5KUX

You could also get a 12v socket - http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ for instance - tap it off your existing 12v socket fuse with an add-a-fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ - and hide it all in the dash somewhere. That way you have no permanent mods.

If it were my trailer I'd buy a battery box and move the battery to the tongue.

That means running a bunch of heavy wire from the tongue to the back (I would use 10ga minimum since it's DC and you get a bunch of voltage loss on long runs with DC.)

Or you could build an enclosure around the battery and put a vent in the outside wall.

You'll have to make it so you can open the enclosure for maintenance.

It's weird that they would mount the battery there, you might want to point it out to the manufacturers.

http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ

Here's a pic OP if you want to compare. Yeah, I doubt that's killing the juice to your bike.

Most auto parts has a + battery terminal replacement that has a on/off switch.. Also doubles as engine kill switch. Cant start it unless someone knows to turn the knob.

Quick question regarding battery storage - what sort of containers are ideal for storing lithium ion/"lipo" batteries? I am currently forced to store them in my living space and it makes me a little nervous since I have no protective bin of any sort.

​

These battery boxes would do nothing for a li-ion battery fire, right? What is the correct alternative?

I took my first bike (2001 ninja 250) from NC to seattle, coast to coast, 2 months after I got it. Long trips are great as long as you prepare for them.

1 - Maintenance. If there are any intervals that will happen during or soon after your trip, do them before you leave.

2 - Get roadside assistance or something similar. At least have the number for a tow truck.

3 - Make sure you can charge your phone/other stuff. Basic hookup involves something like this, or a battery tender cable with an adapter. I did the second one, with the quick disconnect between my seat (where the cable comes out from the battery) and my tank bag, where all the wires are.

Getting to the actual riding part...

1 - Wind isn't as much of a problem as you might think. It can suck, but if you stay relaxed it'll be just fine. Remember, the bike will always want to stay up, so just let it do its thing. (your bike weighs ~650lbs, it's not going to be too badly affected anyway)

2 - Take breaks! At least once an hour, pull over for 30 seconds or so and get off the bike. Walk around it, drink some water. Fatigue has a nasty habit of creeping up on you without you realizing it.

3 - Stay hydrated and fed, and keep a bottle of water with you.


That's all I have for right now, I'll edit later if I think of something else

edit: get some earbuds or a big old speaker if you're against headphones while riding. Hours upon hours of road without a radio or anything gets boring insanely fast.

Longsleeve was essential, since I'm usually out during the day when it's hot as hell, crazy how cold even 50mph winds can get at night.

As for sunblock, started to realize 30-60 minutes with the sun beaming on me probably wasn't the best to go unprotected. Also an extra pair of ear plugs


My bike already came with this installed, which apparently can be used if you have gear that has electric warming features

Then I got this which is basically a USB adapter, use it to charge my phone or GPS etc

I went the lazy route on this one. I don't use my truck for months at a time and I was tired of coming back to a dead battery. It's a piece of shit so I wanted to "fix" the problem as cheaply as possible. Instead of tracking down the parasitic draw, I just installed a battery disconnect switch from Amazon for $10.