Reddit mentions: The best car care products
We found 5,373 Reddit comments discussing the best car care products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,429 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Lexol Leather Cleaner and Conditioner and Sponge Kit, For Use on Leather Apparel, Furniture, Auto Interiors, Shoes, Handbags and Accessories
- Clean, condition and protect leather auto interiors, sporting equipment, furniture, baseball gloves, leather jackets and boots, and tack and saddles
- Contains (1) 8 ounce Lexol cleaner, (1) 8 ounce Lexol conditioner, and a 2-pack Lexol applicator sponge
- Lexol pH-balanced Cleaner is purely a cleaner. NO silicones, alcohols, waxes, oil, or additives to interfere with its cleaning action or to cause dirt to be trapped in the leather.
- Lexol Conditioner leaves no greasy residue and it contains no harmful silicon ingredients which dry out leather over time. Lexol Conditioner results in supple, strong, and beautiful leather.
- Pack of 2 non-abrasive, Microfiber applicator sponges that are safe to use without damaging surfaces.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 7 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | May 2013 |
Size | 8 oz. |
Weight | 1.35 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
2. Optimum (NR2010Q) No Rinse Wash & Shine - 32 oz.
- Eradicate Grime for Showroom Shine: This powerful and safe no rinse car wash restores your car to its original shine while only using 1-2 gallons of water for a complete clean
- Works Like Magic: The new formula of this rinseless car wash contains polymers that improve encapsulation and create a greater barrier between dirt and your vehicle's finish
- For Home and Pro: Simple enough for the busy weekend warrior, but strong enough for the professional detailer; No complicated equipment needed for a professional spotless car wash
- A Wash for All Seasons: Wash the road salt off your vehicles comfortably inside a garage during the wintertime with minimal wet mess; Conserve water during summer droughts
- Clean Many Vehicles and Surfaces: Wash glass, plastic, metal, rubber, or leather interior on cars, trucks, RVs, golf carts, and more; Can also be used as a clay bar lubricant
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.2 Inches |
Length | 10.2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | November 2013 |
Size | 32 oz. |
Weight | 2.3 Pounds |
Width | 3.8 Inches |
3. Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP - Preserves and Protects Leather - Great for Boots and More - 4 oz
Repels water better & longerRepels chemicals, manure acid, salt, concreteResists dry toy, scuffing, crackingResists mildew, mold, bacteria growthRestores & Preserves dried-out leather natually
Specs:
Color | Buckskin |
Height | 2.25 Inches |
Length | 2.5 Inches |
Size | 4 Ounces |
Weight | 0.3125 pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
4. AUTOSCRUB Fine Grade Sponge [AS-019]
- Lasts up to 10 times longer than clay bars
- For a flawless “show room perfect” shine
- Glides on & off easily for a slick finish
- If inadvertently dropped on shop floor, simply rinse clean
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 4.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | May 2013 |
Size | 4.6 x 2.9 x 1.3 inches |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 3.5 Inches |
5. Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish, 10 Fluid Ounces
- PLASTIC CLEANER & POLISH: Rich gel formula quickly restores clarity to both rigid and flexible uncoated clear plastics, removing cloudiness, yellowing, oxidation, fine scratches and grime
- HEADLIGHT CLEANING AND MUCH MORE: Great for use on headlights, Plexiglass, plastic convertible windows, brake lights and other uncoated clear plastic surfaces
- BRILLIANT CLARITY: Cleans and restores brilliant clarity in one simple step, saving you money on expensive replacement headlights and enhancing visibility and safety for nighttime driving
- LASTING PROTECTION: Features water-resistant polymers that help provide long-lasting durable protection
- USE BY ITSELF OR WITH HEADLIGHT KIT: Use by itself or as a refill with Meguiar's headlight restoration kits
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 10 oz |
Weight | 0.7054792384 Pounds |
Width | 2 Inches |
6. Mothers 05101 Mag & Aluminum Polish - 10 oz
- Apply with a clean cloth and a little elbow grease for a shine
- Gentle enough to use on a regular basis
- Regular use provides a long lasting benefit to your vehicle
- Easy to apply
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 10 Ounce (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 0.625 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
7. Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP Leather Conditioner Natural Oil Beeswax Formula (8oz)
- Leather conditioner cream with real beeswax and plant oils designed to melt when spread on by hand
- Condition, restore dried and sun faded leather saddle bags, chaps, and holsters
- Heavy Duty Leather Preservative is Made in the USA
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.5 Inches |
Length | 3.25 Inches |
Size | 8 Ounces |
Weight | 0.5625 Pounds |
Width | 3.25 Inches |
8. 303 (30313CSR) Products Aerospace Protectant - Ultimate UV Protection - Keeps Vinyl, Rubber, & Plastic Looking Newer, Longer - Prevents Fading And Cracking - Restores Lost Color And Luster, 32 fl. oz.
- 303 UV Protectant brightens surfaces and keeps them looking newer, longer. This formula provides superior UV protection for any rubber, finished leather, plastic, vinyl, eisenglass, PVC, gel coat & fiberglass surfaces. Not for use on unfinished leathers (such as suede), fabrics (canvas) or floorings.
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 9.37 Inches |
Length | 12.18 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | May 2014 |
Size | 32 Fl. oz. |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 9.37 Inches |
9. Novus 7100 Plastic Polish Kit - 8 Ounce
- The NOVUS Polish Kit is perfect for protecting, cleaning, polishing and restoring plastic protective shields. Our NOVUS Kit provides solutions from the protection stage to restoration.Keep your protective shields like new by using the NOVUS Polishes
- Country of origin : United States
- Package weight : 2.0 Lbs
- Product type : Auto Accessory
Features:
Specs:
Color | clear |
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Size | 8 Ounce |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 8 Inches |
10. MEGUIAR'S G7164 Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo and Conditioner Hfsrq, 2Units
- Rich and luxurious car wash designed to wash and condition paint in one easy step
- Premium formula offers rich foaming and sudsing action to gently and safely wash away tough dirt, road grime and contaminants without stripping wax protection
- Ultra-rich conditioners reveal color and clarity and leave your paint with a radiant shine
- This Gold Class car wash is safe on all paint types and clear coats
- Diverse application allows wash to be used in a bucket or in a foam cannon; dilute 5:1 when used with a foam cannon
Features:
Specs:
Color | Gold |
Height | 3.4 Inches |
Length | 10.24 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | November 2015 |
Size | 64 Fluid ounces |
Weight | 4.40924524 Pounds |
Width | 5.46 Inches |
11. Ultimate Compound
- REMOVE PAINT DEFECTS: The ultimate product for removing oxidation, scratches, water spots, and blemishes without scratching
- BEST CAR SCRATCH REMOVER: Cuts as fast as harsh abrasives restoring surface clarity without scratching or swirling
- SAVES TIME: The clear coat safe formula dramatically reduces the time and effort to restore abused or neglected paint finishes
- STUNNING FINISH: Exclusive micro-abrasive technology leaves a "like new" finish and adds gloss in one easy step
- SAFE FOR CLEAR COAT: Safe and effective on clear coat and single stage paints, and can be applied by hand or dual action polisher like Meguiar's MT300 Dual Action Polisher
- Note: Kindly follow the directions on the label of the bottle
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.85 Inches |
Length | 8.32 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 16 oz |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 1.03 Inches |
12. Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots.
- SIMPLY THE BEST WATERLESS CAR WASH. Gently Cleans and Protects while leaving a Non-Stick UV Protective Coating on All Vehicle surfaces both Inside and Out. Also, compatible with all other waxes, sealants, and ceramic coatings. Just Spray on and Wipe Dry. Wash and Wax Anywhere, Anytime, Parking Lots, Garages, Work, School, Apartments, RV Parks, and more. 144oz will Waterless Wash up to 28 cars or Wax As You Dry 36 cars. Also, excellent on ALL Interior surfaces. Leather, Vinyl, Plastic, & Glass.
- Highly performance Aircraft Quality Wax for your Car, Boat, and RV. ONCE YOU SEE THE DIFFERENCE YOU WILL NEVER USE AUTOMOTIVE PRODUCTS AGAIN! Used by Air Force One, Marine One, NASA, The Military, Airlines, Corporate and private aircraft owners around the world for over 35 years. This is a high quality easy to use product.
- Water Based - Alcohol & Ammonia Free. Our plant-based Eco-friendly formula is biodegradable and Safe on ALL surfaces both Inside and Out. Meets Boeing Aircraft (D6-17487P, D6-7127M), Airbus Industries (09-00-002), and McDonnell Douglass CDS #1 cleaning specifications. Also, Human Friendly, NO eye or skin irritation like some other automotive products
- Kit includes 1 full gallon of Wash Wax ALL, 1 full 16 oz spray bottle of Wash Wax ALL, 4 Microfiber Towels (16 in x 16 in), Mini Aero Bug Scrubber, Product Guide, and How to Use Guide.
- ⚠️ Note: Understand that this is a Wash and Wax Product. Wax will protect and enhance the shine you currently have. If you have dull, oxidized, or scratched finish you will need a Polish to address those issues. WAX IS FOR PROTECTION; POLISH IS FOR CORRECTION. Our polish is called Polish ALL and is also available on Amazon. 100% MONEY BACK GUARANTEE. If you are not getting 5 star results out of this 5-star product, please give us a chance to correct the issue. Please contact us.
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 11 Inches |
Length | 9 Inches |
Size | 144 fl. oz Car Wash Kit |
Weight | 11 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
13. Mothers 07240 California Gold Clay Bar System
- Removes Embedded Grains Of Metal, Tree Sap, Airborne Environmental Deposits And Paint Overspray
- More Pliable And Not As Stiff As Other Clays; Safe To Use On All Types Of Paint, Including Clearcoats
- Regular Use Provides A Long Lasting Benefit To Your Vehicle
- Adds Depth And Clarity And Leaves Paint Feeling Silky Smooth
Features:
Specs:
Color | Gold |
Height | 10 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Packages |
Weight | 1.9 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
14. Chemical Guys MIC_493 Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt, Lime Green
- Premium scratch free car wash mitt: Keep your car clean without scratching it with this super soft microfiber car wash mitt
- Extra plush & absorbent: You wouldn't wash your body with porcupine right, so don't do it to your car either. This wash mitt is super soft, and holds water and soap, so your wash is easier and faster
- Double stitched elastic cuff: Tight fitting cuff keeps the mitt on your hand, not on the ground or the bottom of your bucket
- 100 Percent machine washable: When you are done with your wash, simply add the car wash mitt to your regular wash and wash it on gentle cycle; Low heat
- Make your microfiber last longer: We recommend washing all of your microfiber wash mitts and towels with Chemical guys microfiber wash (sold separately)
Features:
Specs:
Color | Lime Green |
Height | 2.2799999976744 Inches |
Length | 9.6099999901978 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | January 2013 |
Size | Regular |
Weight | 0.14991433816 Pounds |
Width | 7.0099999928498 Inches |
15. Lexol Leather Conditioner, 1 Liter, Leather Cleaner and Deep Conditioning Since 1933 For Use on Apparel, Furniture, Auto Interiors, Shoes, Bags and More (Packaging May Vary)
- Preserve, strengthen, and beautify your leather or vinyl surfaces with Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
- Protects leather from cracking and premature aging without leaving any greasy residue
- Made with tiny, microscopic droplets of oil that bond to leather fibers, nourishing and enhancing leather’s flexibility and durability
- Use on leather car upholstery, shoes, boots, baggage, saddles, sports equipment, furniture, and other leather accessories (not recommended for suede or extremely soft leather)
- For the ultimate in leather health and shine, use after leather is cleaned with Lexol Leather Deep Cleaner
- Easy to use: Spray on, rub in, buff, and wipe off any leather or vinyl surface
- Designed and formulated in the USA
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 7.5 Inches |
Length | 2 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-Liter |
Weight | 2.1125 Pounds |
Width | 5.25 Inches |
16. MEGUIAR'S D10101 All Purpose Cleaner
- Ideal for reconditioning most interior surfaces
- Active foaming action lifts dirt
- Fabric softeners enhance luxurious results
Features:
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 7 Inches |
Length | 4.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 8.85 Pounds |
Width | 11.45 Inches |
17. Mothers Wheel Brush, Standard
- Non-slip comfort grip
- Protective rubberized bumper
- Soft, gentle bristles reach tight spots
- Ideal for cleaning wheels, fenders, and bumpers
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Standard |
Weight | 0.6 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
18. MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces
- ONE EASY STEP: Formula delivers maximum synthetic protection, durability, depth of color, and reflectivity in this easy one step
- EFFORTLESS APPLICATION: Thin Film technology provides for easy application and wipe off even in full sun, and will not stain non-painted trim pieces white
- LONG-LASTING PROTECTION: Advanced synthetic polymers crosslink to form a long-lasting protective barrier while amplifying reflection for incredible depth and mirror-like shine
- WATER ROLLS RIGHT OFF PAINT: Hydrophobic Polymer technology increases surface tension to protect paint
- SAFE AND FLEXIBLE: Safe and effective on all glossy paints and clear coats, and can be applied by hand or dual action variable speed polisher like Meguiar's MT300 Dual Action Polisher
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3.543307083 Inches |
Length | 5.511811018 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 16 Fluid Ounces |
Weight | 1.53882658876 Pounds |
Width | 5.511811018 Inches |
19. MEGUIAR'S Smooth Surface Clay Kit – Safe and Easy Car Claying for Smooth as Glass Finish – G1016
QUICK CAR CLAYING: Quickly and easily removes bonded surface contaminants like paint overspray, industrial fallout, tree sap mist, road tar and moreGLASSY, SMOOTH FINISH: After using clay, wipe with Supreme Shine Microfiber Towel to restore a smooth, glassy finishBETTER WAX PROTECTION: Wax glides on...
Specs:
Color | Smooth Surface Clay |
Height | 10.236220462 Inches |
Length | 4.724409444 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 160 gram |
Weight | 1.8959754532 Pounds |
Width | 3.543307083 Inches |
20. Chemical Guys MIC_506_12 Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold (16 Inch x 16 Inch) (Pack of 12)
- 70 30 ultra premium elite banded microfiber towels
- Best suited for drying wet surfaces or for use with quick detail and waterless carwash products
- Microscopic fibers in supra towels allow them to absorb upto 10 times their weight in liquid
- 360,000 strands in every square inch of highly refined loop woven microfiber
- No streaks, 100 percentage lint free
- Best temperature to wash the towel is 60 degree Celsius
Features:
Specs:
Color | Gold |
Height | 0.04 Inches |
Length | 16 Inches |
Number of items | 12 |
Release date | November 2012 |
Size | 12 Pack |
Weight | 1.76 Pounds |
Width | 16 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on car care products
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where car care products are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.
When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).
Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.
I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!
TOOLS
BUCKETS
CHEMICALS
INTERIOR
WHEELS
TOWELS
Ok, after four months with the car, here goes...
​
Charging
Tesla OEM
Detailing
Third-Party
/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him
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do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?
for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)
leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.
for plastics I like this. a lot
leahter cleaner here
for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.
I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.
this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!
if you're like me and dont have time to clean...
once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here
I like mckees products a fair bit ;)
for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(
---
here's another one
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TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!
Wash/Decontamination
Wheels/Tires
Compounding/Polishing
Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
Interior/Glass Cleaners
Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
I'm reposting some suggestions I made from a previous similar thread, hope it works out for you (the last person's budget was $100; not sure what yours is, but you can pick and choose!)
 
Optimum No Rinse: Concentrated and capable of being diluted as a wash, quick detailer, clay lubricant, window cleaner, light interior cleaner, and more.
Optimum Opti-Seal: Incredibly easy to use sealant (wipe on and walk away!), can be used in place of RainX on windows, good drying aid, and useful as an interior dressing as well. Opti-seal ALL the things!
Detailing brushes: Because every detailer can use more brushes!
Nanoskin Autoscrub Sponge: Makes the process of decontaminating your paint much faster. Much longer life than clay and can be used even after dropped on the ground! Use the ONR as lubricant and you save tons of money.
The Rag Company Eagle Edgeless Towels, 4 pack: These will be the best towels he's ever used.
The total for all of this should be $97.96, just under your budget :)
 
A couple other suggestions if you want to mix and match:
Smaller Opti-Seal: Since it's the biggest budget item here and a little goes a long way, you can go with the small one to include more items in your bundle.
Adam's Wheel Cleaner: The least terrible smelling wheel cleaner, but extremely effective as well. Good if that truck throws a lot of brake dust.
CarPro PERL: For protecting exterior plastics as well as dressing them, and for use as a satin look tire dresing.
Wheel Woolies: Makes cleaning wheels a much nicer experience, and won't fling brake dust into your face like the brushes do.
Hope this helps! If you want any more specific recommendations for any category, feel free to ask! As for things to avoid, Armorall, Turtlewax and Chemical Guys in my opinion.
> For batteries, I'm using some efest IMR 18650s, do you think a different battery would make a noticeable difference?
eFests and mechs do not go well together, that being said hopefully you have one of the 20 amp rated ones, but it's still likely a poor choice for a mechanical device. Before buying the mod or at the same time you should have bought at least two of these, which currently is the cheapest price out of the three known trustworthy vendors for authentic cells.
You should read more into mechanical mods if questions like this are ones you need to ask, not meaning to be rude. Using an ohms law calculator at 4.2v you're going over 1a of what hopefully is the rating of your battery (if you have the 12a then this is actually not safe) but your mod will be pulling less with voltage drop. You should be calculating for 4.2 though to give yourself some headroom for safety. Especially if you threw an efest into a mech. I apologize if I come off condescending, it's not my goal at all, it's just with mechanical mods the battery is possibly one of the most important things to know how many amps you have to work with and you should never use rewraps in a mech. There's other batteries with lower ratings people use but honestly, I don't see any reason to when the VTC5a exists, is available, and possibly the all around best battery for vaporizers in general. In regulated devices you can sacrifice that extra cdr for some more battery life but in this situation the CDR is going to be a major determining factor in building safely and knowing what is safe and isn't as you need this for ohms law calculation.
Use the 510 pin cap for now because the more safety involved currently the better. Also if you didn't already know make sure to religiously check your battery wraps for any nicks or tears. With your mod you do have the delrin insulation I believe, but honestly if there's a tear or any damage to the wrap just rewrap it to be safe, you really don't want a short to happen and I don't want to see you on the news.
If there's any other questions that you're hesitant to ask, you may as well, because I'd rather help clear some things up or show you areas in which to read more so you know how to use what you have as safe as possible, and with efest batteries it worries me that there may be some things you may have missed.
Tldr: order these and don't use the efests. 2 of them should be fine unless you plan on using it as a main device in which 4 may be a safer bet, but 2 should be fine. Plus you're still learning some things it seems to there's no reason to use a potentially risky rewrap with false ratings when something like that is so cheap, and performs so well.
edit: I use Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish for my mech mods, they're copper but I want to say that works well for brass too. Theres videos on how to properly polish if you are unsure. You want to wash it off after you use that though so you prevent potential damage to your device by leaving some of it behind. Pick up battery wraps and insulators as well, you're going to need these if you vape regardless and with mechanical mods you should have some ready to go as soon as any damage to the wrap happens. They're dirt cheap and it's easy to do, again there's youtube videos that show how to rewrap 18650s. Don't get them mixed up with other batteries though afterwards, as you don't want to throw a 15a battery into that thinking it's 25a and pulling too much power from it than the cell can handle.
Hybrid mode is more conductive but at this stage in the game I would use the topcap with the 510 pin instead. You likely won't notice a dramatic difference and it's safer for now.
Also you will probably have better luck with simple round wire builds than things like claptons simply due to ramp up time. Especially since at the moment if you continue to use that without the batteries I linked, you want to pulse it as little as possible. I am erring on the side of caution but if I am aiming for what's safest for you right now and until you learn all you should have known before buying a mech, you probably should too. Either way though, I find simple round wire builds are better in the builds I have tried compared to the fused claptons I gave a shot once. I don't like ramp up time though and even if you look at a lot of way people who are "sponsored" build you will see half the time they are still using basic round wire builds too. They just work and are simple.
OK, you have a ton of questions in there, let's try to sort it out.
First off, you need to assess the paint, and not just assume you need to do all the steps you mentioned (and some you didn't mention). If the car is new, you probably won't need to clay it, as the paint is probably 'clean'. Here is how you figure out if it is clean. After it is washed, i.e. all of the loose, surface dirt is gone, simply gently rub the paint, especially on a horizontal surface like the hood. You can do this while it is wet. How does it feel? Clean paint feels soft and smooth and makes no noise when you rub it. Dirty paint feels rough, hard and makes a 'swishing' sound when you rub it. If you hear anything, it needs to be clayed. Most clays are very similar, so there is very little difference in any of them. They all do the same job about the same. Also, as to your twice a year question, it all depends on the condition of your paint. I wash my car often, so stuff doesn't get embedded in it, so I don't need to clay my car (its been over a year).
You see, paint is like skin. It has pores, and when it gets dirty and is not washed, contaminants (dirt, fallout, metallic flakes, etc) clog the pores and it loses its shine and that's when it needs to be clayed. The clay removes those embedded contaminants.
As for the wash: any good car wash soap will do. It's not rocket science. As long as it says car wash, you're good. ONR is a good alternative once you have protected the paint and it needs a very light wash, or it doesn't have much dirt or grime on it, but you want it cleaned. It is a whole process to clean your car via ONR, but get some, its good stuff. It is also good for interiors, windows, lube for claying your paint, etc. It is concentrated, so you can dilute it how you want.
Wax vs. sealant. Yes, this is confusing. To simplify: sealant is just man made wax. Wax is good stuff, but since it is a natural product (secreted by Brazilian Palm trees), it doesn't last very long (two months is great for wax to still be effective). Sealant simply does the same thing as wax, but can give you up to 8-9 months of UV protection, water beading, etc.
As for layering protection on, it's not really worth it, IMO. Is it worth it to wear two condoms? Not really. Just use the best stuff you have (best as in easiest to lay on, take off and looks good, and lasts a long time) which is personal preference. To continue, if you are going to layer, you want to put the longest lasting product on first. it would't make sense to put on a spray wax that will last a couple weeks, then sealant on top of it. The sealant is bonding with the spray wax, not the paint itself, so it will come right off. How often? As often as you want to. When it doesn't seem like you have the protection, cover it back up. Should you strip old stuff off? Only if you want to, but most products enjoy layering on top of itself (i.e. a couple of applications of the same stuff a few months apart).
Do you need a pressure washer/foam cannon, etc? Not necessary, (again this is just my opinion, but I do this for a living) but if you want to spring for it, a pressure washer makes cleaning easier. I think foam cannons are a waste of time and money. They're fun and look cool, but don't do much that a good, proper pressure washing couldn't do. To answer your last question, No, you still need to do a contact wash. A protected car should only require a light wash with suds and MF towel or mitt or whatever. If you just rinse, foam and rinse, you'll be disappointed, because it will still have dirt on it.
I'm happy to share more of my opinions, on processes, products or whatever. Answering questions is what this sub is for!
​
Winter Clothing/Underwear
In the fall I would wear whatever sweater was on sale at Goodwill.
For the colder winter months I wore a heavy Carhartt jacket and layered as necessary, normally using old/retired ARMY-issued polypropylene underwear.
I bought this around 7 years ago and it's awesome to have in cold weather.
Long Sleeve
For a long sleeve I would always wear these Hanes Cool Dri T-Shirt's in the summer. They claim 50+ UPF (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) though I'm sure that high of a rating only applies to the black ones and it will slowly go down as you put it through the wash. I bought the safety green ones over a year ago and haven't noticed any change in sun protection so far. They were holding up too witch was impressive with my line of work at the time (railroad labor).
Pants
I started wearing whatever blue jeans I found at Goodwill but they would always end up having holes after a month or so. I used that saved money and waited to for a 25% off sale to buy a few pairs of Duluth Firehouse pants (the originals, not those quick-dry things). I've returned 1 pair so far after 2 years even though I staggered them every day. I suspect I may have over-washed them (weekly)?
Hats
I was required to wear a hard hat so I bought this sun shade that wrapped around the brim, it worked out very nicely because 50% of the work involved bending over, exposing the back of your neck to the sun.
Socks
I bought Darn Tough socks and haven't looked back since.
Boots
I went through a few brands of boots before I found the perfect pair of Chippewa's. All other boots I tried were uncomfortable in the toe area. I was restricted to certain boot requirements from the railroad: 8", defined heel, safety toe, laced. I also put on some KG's Boot Guard before I wore out the leather on the toe area, use masking tape to make it look good! As for boot care, I opted for Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP because of the water and chemical resistance. Any time I needed to clean my boots I used Dawn (yes, the dish soap). For a thorough (bi-yearly) cleaning I used Murphy Oil Soap (yes, the wood cleaner).
Lunch Box
As for a lunch box, a basic small cooler/ice chest will do the job just fine for storing hot or cold items (not both at once!). They're well insulated, cheap, and beat broken zippers, ripped cloth, or dented metal any day.
Canteen
COLD: I bought this Coleman 1 Gallon Jug about 5 years ago at Goodwill for $2 and it still looks brand new today.
HOT: This Stanley One Hand Vacuum Mug was the best money I ever spent. It's awesome for driving without spillage and relatively easy to use while wearing insulated gloves. Sadly my first one was ran over by a coworker but I quickly bought another.
Sunscreen
Find whatever works for you, but keep in mind that high SPF ratings are pretty much marketing. SPF 15 = 94% UVB protection and SPF 45 = 98% UVB protection. As far as I'm aware you cannot obtain 100% UVB protection from sunscreen.
Sunglasses
Again, find whatever feels most comfortable to you, everybody is different. I was required to wear safety glasses which means polycarbonate lenses, they are known to scratch easily. Because of that, I found a pair that could be cheap enough to replace when necessary. Yes, my company did provide them, but they were incredibly uncomfortable to wear for 8+ hours a day.
Other
Having a few bandanas will always come in handy.
If you need gloves, your leather choices are between grain and patched. Grain is much more expensive, takes some breaking into, is water resistant and very durable. Patched is pretty much the exact opposite of grain. My goto brand was Kinco.
I may add more if I can think of anything else.
EDIT 1 - Forgot a link..
I would reccomend these materials for the two bucket wash method. Its probably the most common method, and one of the safest. There are plenty of youtube how to's on this. These are the materials you'll need.
Not Necessarily essentials, but recommended.
I don't think you need anything like a DA at this point. Others will have recommendations for you, and I encourage you to take their advice as well. Some great youtube channels are Ammo NYC, Larry is a master at explaining how to's. He has is own line of products but they're expensive. You can even email him with questions and he'll respond quickly and go above and beyond to explain somethingto you. Junkman, also another great channel. Chemical Guys, they have some pretty good products but their customer service is shit. Their youtube videos are pretty good but all they do is upsell their products.
I'm fairly new to detailing like you. I dont have the best products, but what I use seems to work for me. There are better products out there but budgets can only be so large.
/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)
TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.
I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.
Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)
(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)
next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)
next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)
after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.
afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.
or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!
also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.
then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.
oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.
links to products named
ultimate megs wax
ultimate polish megs
sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning
trademark extender wax spray
3D pink car soap/shampoo
collinite 845
ultimate compound megs
ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried
megs ult polish AG carried
Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D
these microfibers are damn nice but $
I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while
wash mitt I use
even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new
oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p
/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag
/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text
>Wash car using 2 bucket method, wash mitt. For soap I am using Meguiars Carnuba Wash
Yep, 2 bucket method and remember to use the right ratio of soap to water. I think that soap is 1oz --> 1 Gallon. I tend to use an old laundry cup and mark the different oz on that cup so that i know i have the right ratios.
>Scrub car with Nanoskin sponge, and a soapy mitt - or should I use ONR - what ratio.
Baggy test the paint but it most cases for a newbie there paint will need a clay/decon. IronX or TriX(Tar and Iron remover) is a nice thing to have but really is a luxury. In the case with what lubrication to use while you nanoskin, I like o just use my soapy water that is at the right ratio and should be clean due to the to bucket wash keeping junk out of the wash bucket. If your using ONR as clay lube the ratio 1:64.
>Rinse car with water
Yep using the flood method. The water should just sheet off and shouldn't leave much behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAmb9DWdnFc
>Dry with ONR 1:16 ratio & Dry Me a River towell - is that a good ratio?
With ONR less is more in most cases. This will leave some behind. If i used ONR as a clay lube then the 1:64 is what i would be using. If i am mixing fresh i would be going 1:128. Reminder to pre-wet your towel wring it out.
>Wax - I was going to use Meguiar's G12718 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 I am not sure about this one to be honest. My car is a daily driver, so I want something that will last a long time. Is there something else I should be using? Maybe the Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax instead? https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/
The biggest thing for protection staying is the prepwork. The step alot of people tend to forget is using IPA wipedown after everything as this will give the surface the cleanest, and driest area for the protection to bond to.
The Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is also Meguiar's Sealant M21. This should get you 3-4 months depending on where the car is kept(inside vs outside 24/7)
The Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax they pushed more for a beading looking because care enthused like that. I think if you have the budget I would get Jescars Powerlock and Collinate 845 look for these on autogeek,autopia-carcare, fav detailing site as they will tend to have deals better than amazon
I would watch https://youtu.be/34GKKyrFrFI?list=PLG_BGdABDC9vWAZVwdmLNAU7J7kwNmJGH and kind of follow it but depending on the level of effort you want to put in.
If your looking to get just one protection product I would get Collinate 845
Any protection truly lasting longer then 6 months is either on a car that isn't exposed to the elements or is a coating. Protection should be reapplied at regular intervals. My daily driver is black, 3 kids and sits outside 24/7 so my interval is 3 months.
Hope this helps and enjoy your detailing path.
Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.
First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.
For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!
Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.
Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!
Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!
The answer to your first question of what makes vehicles "have that glorious-mirror almost appearance" is paint correction. There is no miracle product that will instantly turn shitty paint into 100% flawlessness in 1 application. It will take good claying, compounding, and polishing to get the results you are looking for. I'm sure that the clay, HF DA, M105 and M205, and the various pads you have will be able to get the results you are looking for. The only problem is time. It is going to take more time to get the results because the HF DA is not powerful, when compared to something like the Rupes or the Flex.
Carnauba waxes. The consensus is that they add depth and shine, but don't last long. Sealants last longer, but with less shine and depth. Both sealants and carnauba waxes will make shitty paint look less shitty, with carnauba slightly edging out sealants. But like previously stated, its all about the prep work. Sealant on flawless paint will still look better than carnauba wax over sealant on shitty paint.
Glazes. The sole purpose of glaze is to fill in scratches. No amount or type of glaze will replace correcting paint. It is unnecessary to put glaze immediately after a vehicle just had paint correction as there are no scratches for the glaze to fill in. However, sometimes it makes sense to glaze and not correct the paint. Generally, the two situations where glaze is better than correcting paint are when you don't have enough time to correct the vehicle, or the customer does not have the funds to correct the vehicle. Correcting paint takes hours and hours, while glaze (depending on vehicle size) may take up to an hour to apply and remove. Obviously, paint correction costs more than an application of glaze.
Spray on wax compared to Collinite #845 is like comparing pee wee football to the NFL. Even a shitty application of Collinite that is 4 months old will still be better than spray on wax. That said, I think it is still good to use spray wax after washing the vehicle.
One thing I didn't see you mention is wheels, tires, and trim. You also want to spend great care on these three areas because they create contrast with the paint, thus making the paint look even better. Essentially, you want all aspects of the wheel clean (face, spokes, barrel). You want the tire to be scrubbed with cleaner and then dressed with a water based dressing. You then want to clean the trim with all purpose cleaner and use either dressing or a trim restorer to give it the original look. Good wheel cleaner: Sonax Good APC for tires and trim:Meguair's D101 Good tire dressing: Adam's Super VRT
Anything I have said here is open for constructive discussion.
TL;DR Correcting paint is above everything. Glazes mostly unnecessary. Both sealants and carnauba waxes have their purposes. Look into cleaning and dressing wheels, tires, and trim.
2015 Ford Focus ST
I performed my Express Detail on this 2015 Ford Focus ST for a client. This client emailed me Thanksgiving morning hoping I could help with a gift his best friend "spilled" in his vehicle. I couldn't help him since I was on my way out of town, but I gave him instructions of how to help get the gift out. He ended up booking me to come over when I got back :)
His car is pretty new (a month + if I remember correctly), so my Express Detail was perfect for his vehicle.
This package is my most popular as I believe it's the most bang for your buck (or at least I tried to price it that way).
Products Used:
Wash
Wheels
Decontamination
Clay
1-Step
Interior
Notes
I found out that there is a special trick to putting this car in reverse. It involves lifting the collar below the shift knob. It's actually pretty interesting.
Price: $215 + TIP
Time: 4.5-5 Hours
Thank you for your business fellow redditor :)
Shoes:
You'll have to keep re-treating, and watch out for issues like gumboot (clogged leather pores). I've also read that treating with liquid oil like mink instead of wax can weaken the leather by hydrating it and making it, yes, more supple -- but also softer.
Pants:
Ditch jeans. KUHL makes the best field pants I've tried. They're more durable, lighter, and are generally very good. Go to an REI to see how different versions fit. KUHL makes jeans and similar pants, too, but their lighter field pants are much better in most conditions.
Socks...too many options, none of them stood out for me. As long as you have enough pairs of thick hiking socks and can cycle through clean pairs every day or so, you should be fine. Synthetic socks typically dry faster than wool. That's about the only major / consistent difference in my experience.
> Griots Garage Fiber Mit
Great kit.
> 2 or 3 buckets with Grit Guards
You can stick to 2 buckets to save money and just rinse it out after washing the wheels before starting your wash.
> Several Brushes for my wheels/Liners
I suggest getting the following brushes. Mothers wheel brush, Mother's wheel well brush, Tuf Shine tire brush. Then buy some wheel woolies if you want to clean your barrels without taking off the wheels.
>Soap
I suggest Chemical Guys, Meguiar's, or CarPro for your soap.
>I do a pre-soak with a hose powered foamer...do I need a special soap for this step?
A high foaming soap will be best for this. Most Chemical Guys soap works pretty well. I would suggest not getting a hose powered foam gun. Unless you're going off roading its not worth it. It's best to save up for a power washer and a foam lance.
> Plenty of microfiber towels
Make sure to buy some crappy towels for your dirty jobs like drying wheels, cleaning the undercarriage, and the carpets. I suggest zwipe microfiber towels for the cheap ones, and the rag companies eagle edgeless towels for your nice pair.
> Interior spray (I like the Meguiars Natural Finish, this okay?)
I have not had experience with that one yet. I have tried the Meguiars quik interior detailer before and it makes the plastics look stock. It doesn't do much cleaning, more of a finishing step. If you want to clean the interior I suggest getting Optimum Power Clean (diluted 1:10) or Chemical Guys NonSENSE (diluted 1:10).
> Waffle Towels (Oddles of them!)
Once your car is waxed you'll only need 2 large towels to dry your car. I really like the Chemical Guys waffle towels because they have good value for the money. Cobra towels are way better but way more expensive. I've heard the rag company has good ones too.
> See if I can get my hands on a leaf blower with a filter on it.
I bought a troy bilt leaf blower for $40 at home depot and it works pretty well.
I think you're forgetting 3 things.
I have always used either Chelsea Leather Food or Lexol Leather Conditioner for my leather goods.
The Chelsea is really popular among soccer players for use on their cleats so it can be found in a reasonable number of sports stores that sell them for around 10 bucks. Make sure you get the clear stuff though.
The Lexol looks like a car care product but it was recommended to me for use on my riding boots and is extensively to keep horse tack from drying out and wearing down. Amazon is selling a liter of the stuff for 12 bucks. Because it is meant to soak in to the leather a bit, it may darken the JCP boots up some, so go with a few even, light coats first rather than just pouring the stuff on.
The Kiwi polish that you can find in drugstores everywhere is plenty good and is pretty cheap at around 3 bucks a tin. I am currently using some Brooks Brothers Shoe Cream which I got as a gift a bit ago and i love the stuff. It is a bit on the 'pricey' side at 9 bucks a jar so it is up to you.
As a last note, I would recommend getting some Saddle Soap for use after youve gone slogging through some less than clean streets and perhaps forgotten to clean your shoes for a bit. It is a great 'once and a while' product to get your shoes clean again and helps to make sure you arent polishing any dirt or grime into the shoe the next time you give them a shine.
Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.
The way I do it:
Equipment:
Washing:
Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
Sealant/wax:
After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
Hey guys i'm new to this detailing scene..but I do hope to learn a lot from everyone! I have an 05' white civic and the exterior isn't terrible, but there's definitely parts where there's medium oxidation and swirl marks. Just overall the paint doesn't feel glossy and smooth, just weathered and feels like metal.
Please let me know if I got the steps correct...any inputs is greatly appreciated!
Thanks so much for all your suggestions and inputs. I hope to learn a lot from all of you.
PS. Extra question, I'm doing a roadtrip after the detail...(stupid i know) but what's a good product to get rid of the bug stains while I'm out on the road?
THANKS!!
I'm pretty new to boots as well, but I'd suggest picking up a few things if you don't have them already. This will apply to most leather shoes/boots (doesn't really apply to suede or roughout leathers... for that you'll need a suede brush)
FYI below is basically a tl;dr of this post that got me started on all of this. I recommend you read through it all and check out /r/goodyearwelt and maybe just use this post as more as a quick reference or for ideas.
Once everything is acquired you'll be ready to give your boots an initial tune-up and have some daily-care tools.
Daily Care
I decided to just go with lexol leather conditioner and it's working perfectly. It came highly recommmend in /r/goodyearwelt. Don't use Obernauf's LP unless you want to ruin your boots. Don't use waxes. Oil works well but can be a little harder to work with because of how easily it saturates the leather. If you look around this subreddit you'll see a lot of boots that are drenched when they are oiled. You don't want that. You want a healthy leather.
>Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!
>1st: Nice two bucket cleaning
>2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?
>3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)
>4: Nice coat of wax
>How does that sound?
Correct. A 2-bucket wash will get most of the dirt off while not marring the paint any further than it already is.
Also, that is a very good clay kit. I will pre-warn you, claying is the absolute worst part of the job. It's rewarding afterward, but such a pain. If you want, there is stuff called "nanoskin" that has pretty much the same effect as clay but it requires a lot less effort. Check Amazon for "nanoskin fine grade sponge." It's like 11 bucks. Note that you'll still need to buy a quick detailer like the one in the clay kit for general purpose spray, so you may want to go for the clay kit. Get nanoskin when you're a little more familiar with detailing.
As you rub the clay, be sure it's well lubricated so the clay just glides. You will feel resistance to the gliding until the clay picks up all the grime. Then the clay will flow smooth. That's when you knead it and move to a new section.
If you choose to go DA polisher, beware that there are a lot more purchases that go along with it. You'll also need a backing plate and pads. That can become pricey. Polishing is attainable by hand, but very time-consuming. I'd recommend going panel by panel, day by day with hand method. Claying an entire car, then hand polishing it will make you want to never touch a car again haha.
I recommend you wash and clay the roof, then polish and wax. On a different day, do the same to the hood. The next day, tackle a quarter-panel. This will keep you sane.
Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....
Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...
You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.
You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...
The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.
You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.
This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.
Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.
I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.
This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.
EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.
honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.
what i use:
griot's garage clay
meguairs soap
mothers cleaner wax
nu finish
and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.
my once a year routine is as follows:
wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax
usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.
also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.
I like automatic watches. I've also got a wife, child, and house to pay for. I also love to beat the shit out of my stuff because it just sort of happens.
Enter the SNK803. Automatic. Tough. Most importantly, easily replaced if I destroy it. But, I don't like the matte finish of the case. I DID have a dremel tool. Do I have an autozone? Yes I do. Do they carry mother's mag & aluminum polish? Every day. So I polished it up. Not mirror, a shiny satin finish. But now I need a quality strap. So I ordered a John Allen Woodward Alligator for $1,100...NO! What goes best with a satin finish and a beige face? Simple leather! This is a Ritche Genuine Leather NATO strap for a timex weekender. Happens to come in 18mm. And you know it's high quality leather. How? Says so. Genuine is right in the name. Only the best straps come WITH a tool to remove the pins.
Now I've got a watch that looks great, keeps great time, is a tiny mechanical wonder, and looks just as good at work as it does hiking. With a grand total of maybe $60 and an hour of work in it.
There was this one here, but it’s out of stock. Decent price too.
There’s also this. It’s an off brand (but I mean 90% of stuff comes from China anyway) and the brush bristles are soft.
This too. I don’t know how good microfiber is on wheels though. I personally have one similar to this that I bought in a kit from Costco, and use it for interior. But with a true brush style you can just rinse it out, vs microfiber that’s stains and needs to be washed.
There’s also this one. I’m pretty sure Canadian Tire has a smaller one to, but I can’t seem to see it on the site. Was in a store a few weeks ago and I think I saw one.
For something like wheels and tires, I don’t really see a point in spending crazy money on brushes. That may be an insult to people, but just as a hobby, I care that my rims are clean. For paint I use good towels and mitts (obviously to not scratch the paint) but for wheels, I’d rather save the money. I haven’t felt a good pro quality wheel brush vs a random one from Amazon or in-store, but even if I did, I don’t see how I’d justify the price difference (compared to something like a Eagle Edgeless 500 vs some random microfiber towel)
Waxing is simple. There are a ton of products these days that won't require much work to keep your car protected. The easiest are the spray waxes. Use after you wash once a month(or more) and you'll be nice an protected. If you need some paint correction (i.e. polishing) and you aren't comfortable with it, you will have to spend a couple hundred if you want someone to do a good job and not actually damage the paint. Be careful of the "FUll Detail" for under $100 guys. If correction is what you need, I can suggest Odds and Ends Detailing in Sterling. If that is too far out from where you are, you might want to give them a call and ask if they can recommend someone closer. The owner is a very nice guy.
​
Some general tips on keeping your car looking good.
First off, the subreddit that inspired me to start cleaning cars: /r/AutoDetailing . They've got some great material there, along with resources, instructions, and more.
First, clean the windshield. If it's not been done in a while, you'll have to do it very well. Prepping the windshield is the most critical part to a good coat of RainX. My preferred method is to begin after washing the car. Get some good glass cleaner, like Stoners, spray it over the windshield, then use a razor blade, holding it at a 45 degree angle to the glass, to scrape down the windshield in and up and down and side to side pattern. This won't scratch the glass, but help remove embedded particles. After you've finished scraping the glass, wipe down the excess window cleaner with a clean microfiber towel. Then use a clay bar to go over the glass one more time. This picks up any additional leftover contaminants left in the glass. Because it's clay, it will want to stick to the glass, so you can use the Stoners as lubrication. Once done, wipe the excess off with a window with some type of glass rag. Now you can apply RainX. Using a microfiber towel folded a few times, put a small amount of RainX in a corner and begin working into the glass (I've seen AmmoNYC use foam from packaging before). Use circular motions and check it from a few angles to make sure you've covered everything. The product should form a "haze" a few seconds after application. A little bit goes a long way with RainX. Some guys recommend turning on your windshield defrosters and running them as hot as possible for a few minutes before applying the RainX, I've not noticed a huge difference. After 5-10 minutes, use a glass towel to begin buffing it off. You can sprinkle a little bit of water on the window during this process to help take it off, but I just stick to the towel. You can apply a 2nd coat immediately after for improved results, but anything beyond that doesn't help. Double check your working by looking at the glass from all angles (inside/outside) to make sure you didn't miss a spot. Enjoy driving in the rain with no need for windshield wipers above 35mph!
Hope this helps. Again, prepping the glass is the most critical part. You're creating a clean surface to put on the hydrophobic materials of RainX. If there's dirt still in the glass, that's something the water can hold on to and not bead off properly.
I'll give my /r/AutoDetailing inspired rundown. I live in an apartment so a lot of this is extra hassle if you have access to water.
2 Bucket (apartment) Method Wash
My personal favorite wax is Collonite #845. I also like Griot's Best in Show since it can be found in big box stores locally.
I would also recommend a paint protection such as Cquartz as extra protection against winters and daily driving.
The absolute #1 rule to keeping your car swirl free, NEVER USE AUTOMATIC CAR WASHES.
Meguiar's D101 is a really cost effective and solid product that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations.
Chemical Guys AllClean+ is another good option that can be diluted to interior and exterior concentrations, it also has a light almost fruity smell that I like. Some folks in /r/autodetailing have cooled a bit on Chemical Guys due to their ridiculous marketing and occasionally questionable customer service, but AllClean+ is a pretty solid product.
Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel is a nice, not dilutable product that smells amazing and does a great job on a lot of surfaces. It is less cost effective than the other 2 options but if you arent doing cars in bulk, its a good product.
Been slowly building up 'maintenance' type supplies and think I'm on the right track but have a few questions. Here's what I've got:
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CWBDBFU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
And probably some other random stuff. Most of what I've listed above I haven't even used yet! So some quick questions!
We had both of our cars detailed a couple months ago by someone who has a small side business in our neighborhood, so they are in pretty good shape, and just want to keep them that way. At some point in the future, I may consider getting a DA but for now just want to get better at regular maintenance.
Thanks for reading this long-winded post!
I bought this exact listing from Amazon. It comes with a pad and the Lexol has instructions on the package as far as application, but it isn't too tough. Just make sure the leather is clean, and try pouring like a quarter-sized amount onto the cleaning pad. You can work up from there if you want to use more at one time. The good thing about Lexol is you can wipe off excess with a clean cloth (I use a spare washcloth) and no harm done.
Personally, I wipe down first with an old rag, then use the cleaner if needed (usually isn't). Then I brush, use the conditioner, and let it sit a while. Then I wipe clean and let it sit for a while again. It's kind of a superstitious process to be honest. If you're conditioning your leather on a schedule and using shoe trees, you're already doing way more than the average person.
Remember that the Lexol WILL darken your leather a little. I tried to show some comparisons in my original post. But the coconut oil will be more in my experience.
Edit: I actually bought the "Like New" version via an Amazon Warehouse deal to save a couple bucks. it was basically just an open box item. Neither bottle had been opened.
How To: Decontaminate your paint & wheels
Note: When using a clay bar and/or sponge, you will feel the contaminants being picked up. When running over the paint or wheels, you’ll feel little bumps. Keep the clay/sponge motion going and the bumps should go away. It’ll start to feel smooth. To be 100% sure you’ve gotten everything up, place your hand in a plastic sandwich baggy and run your hand over the paint. Because of the ‘finer’ surface area of the bag, you’ll feel what you missed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml434m7ILNA Here is a video of Mike Phillips explaining it.
Congrats! Your car should be contaminant free and ready to be polished!
Dodo Juice Ferrous Dueller
The Mother's & Meguiar's Clay Bar Kits can be found over the counter for about $15-20.
NanoSkin Fine Grade Sponge
Optimum No Rinse
CG Citrus Wash & Gloss
> wheel cleaner plus would be an infrequent use, not every time. D143 would be your every-time use.
So, should I get both or just Meguiar's D143?
> griots fast correcting cream and a microfiber cutting pad from meguiars for the cutting portion of the polishing. replaces 105 and maybe the heaviest foam pad, but i'd just get a microfiber cutting pad in addition to the others.
Would you happen to have a link to both? I am a little confused on what those are.
> Meguiar's D120 glass cleaner concentrate instead of rainx glass cleaner. a gallon will last you the rest of your life. (dilute 1:10)
Seems like a lot, but I guess it is more worth it in the long run.
> a more neutral soap like Adam's or Optimum's. Gold Class has wax additives.
These are a little more expensive (unless I am looking at the wrong one). Is Optimum Car Wash CW2006G the correct one?
> as for concerns: do not use D143 on plastics. don't spray it on the wheel wells either. wheels only. yes you can use optibond on all plastics
Should I stick with Meguiar's D101 in for the plastics, wheel wells, and wheels?
> 303 Aerospace will protect your dashboard. Leatherique has a good conditioner but really you're not going to be able to stop creases from forming.
What would be a recommended cleaner for either/both? Should I use 303 Aerospace Protectant on with the leather conditioner as well? Should I get both the Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean or just the Leatherique Prestine Clean?
Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
It fits in a home depot bucket.
If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
WARNING **
When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
Steps for this process:
1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
Yes, agreed. 800 -> 2000 grit. You will want to alternate directions (ie. if you are doing left & right with 800 grit, then go up & down with 1000 etc) and make sure that the scratches left behind by the previous grit are all gone before moving to the next one. You'll want swirl remover like Meguire's Ultimate Compound after you finish with the 2000 grit. There are several grades of swirl remover with finer and finer grits -- if you're really anal about it, you can get a coarse and a fine, but I only used the Ultimate compound and it worked well for me. It's a lot of work, but can be a really rewarding experience if you get the result you're looking for. You might even find you enjoyed it in the end and start building/refinishing your own partscasters, which is what I do now :)
Good luck!
Completed my first week with 28 rides and I'm surprised how nice everyone has been so far! I creeped on this sub for a few weeks now for tips/tricks and it has really helped. PAX also really like the interior lights of my car. Some materials I want to share:
Waterless Car Wash - I work in the city and didn't know there was such a thing. I can wash my car in my parking spot or on the street with a little bucket of water.
LED Interior Lights - This is a little flashy, but it was only $10 and I hard wired it into my interior dash so there are 0 wires and I'm not using up my outlet for power. Plus PAX can see if they dropped anything and we're not driving completely in the dark. I can control the brightness and usually have it very dim for some atmospheric lighting
Vaccum - This thing works great and has a very long cord to reach through my entire Jeep. It's not for heavy duty jobs, but vacuuming once a week should do the trick
Phone Holder - The Jeep has circular air ducts so this is a great alternative - if you do not use your CD player. This does cover your CD port and has worked great so far. Since it's in my center dash, PAX can see where I'm going.
Battery Powered Uber Sign - Again, flashy but it draws attention and since it's battery powered I do not have to worry about cords running through my car or dash. I found mine on Ebay.
Water - I have a small compartment to keep ice-packs and small water bottles. With every PAX I pickup I offer a bottle of water. 9/10 say no thanks but everyone is very thankful for the offer.
Buy three buckets, one for wheels, the others for a two bucket system.
Buy something to clean the wheels as well. I have the wheel woolies but I'm going to ask for the woolly wormit for my birthday from my wife.
Get a Waterless Wash and/or Quick Detailer for the times when you don't need a wash but you want to clean stuff up.
Take a look into this new Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax for a sealant. I have used the Fast Finish and it's great so this should be even better.
I also use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (D156 is the same but in a gallon jug) as a drying aid and it makes the car POP!
As a final suggestion, buy some 303 for the interior. You're going to love it. Not greasy, smells okay (not fruity), and leaves things looking great.
as a general rule of thumb anything with meguiars on the label will be a reasonably priced, good mid range product to use on your car, for an average person. not the best in the world but also you cant really go wrong with it.
if you are interested
(tbh the spray wax and quick detailer can be interchanged, on a technical level they preform slightly different functions, but for the average person who just wants a clean reasonably shiny car it will be fine.)
just make sure any microfiber cloths you use are kept clean and free from grit or you will scratch the paint.
if you are really sad like me give the ammo nyc youtube channel a watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SLUuiMnlhc0 i find them very relaxing to watch not sure why, but also shows lot of "best practice" for keeping your car in good condition.
Hello,
I've read the wiki and its a huge resource. Thank you to all who put it together!
Some of the product reccommedations are unavailble on Amazon so I just wanted to ask a few questions with regards a brand new car I bought and see if these products are whats needed:
So firstly, washing the exterior of the car:
I have Meguiars Gold class wash, I have two buckets, and grit guards, I will do the two buckets method. Now do I dry the car with:
this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ERU0F3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 or
this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GXRFLY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1
Once I have washed the outside and dried it with the towels, I then apply the wax, I will be using #845 - can I use these to apply it:
https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051MYL8E&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C
I know I needs to get a clay bar or a micro sponge I'm just not sure where/how this fits into the process, what items do I need to buy
These?
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=pd_bxgy_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002U2V1Y&pd_rd_r=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C&pd_rd_w=HVEIG&pd_rd_wg=6EheM&psc=1&refRID=BG4S92NE1D9CH9E2J67C
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Lastly, I am buying this window cleaner -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006SH4KU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Is it safe to use inside and out? I would imagine spray directly on outside windows and just use some microfiber towels like this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WC5KQGE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A1RKELVBY446LD&psc=1 to clean it off? On the inside I would imagine spraying directly onto the cloth would be better.
Do I clean the outside windows after the car has been cleaned and waxed?
I understand the basic process and with this being a new car I want to be 100% I'm doing the right thing, I fully intend on washing it every other week and taking great care of it!
Thanks
Tim
I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.
Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).
Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)
Speaker kit
Tweeter kit
WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)
WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)
Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit
Gorilla mud flaps
Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP
Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting
Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)
Rear bumper cover
Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink
Rear Seat Back Protector
Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket
Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B
Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)
Amazon stuff:
EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex
Aux cable
Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)
Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)
Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)
Two grit guards
Microfiber Drying towel
Microfiber cloths (3 pack)
Car wash shampoo
Wheel brush
Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)
Wheel cleaner
Microfiber wash mitt
Reindeer costume for Christmas
Headrest coat hanger
Road reflective triangles
Duct tape
Odor eliminator
Tire air pressure gauge
OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)
First aid kit
Kaboom with Oxiclean + tooth brush, then wipe clean with a microfiber towel has worked well for me. Be sure to give the cleaner a good minute or more of contact time to work its magic on the mildew before wiping clean.
The magic eraser suggested by others will work quicker, but it will also scour off the top layer of your vinyl which will likely weaken it and remove UV protection. If you must go the magic eraser route be as gentle as possible, and be sure to generously re-coat the vinyl with 303 protectant to protect against UV damage.
And if all else fails, vinyl can be repainted to look like new. I had great results a few years ago with this white dye followed by a few coats of this clear coat on my seats. They are still holding up great after a few years of heavy use and many cleanings.
The clear parts will take a bit of work but you should actually be able to get them looking like new. (If there is still paint left on the part) Start taking off the paint by sanding with a high grit sandpaper mounted with double sided tape to a flat surface. Then I'd suggest buying this: http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451329007&sr=8-1&keywords=novus and working your way through that, in the end it should look like new. I use it on every clear piece after I have removed the flash and sanded away the nub marks. You can even apply a gloss clear coat after that step as well to get a better than new shine.
As far as the paint beading goes, I think you diagnosed the problem already, since you aren't using primer on clear parts washing them is crucial. Do everything you can to have optimal painting conditions as well, and be sure to spray lightly, take your time, and SLOWLY build up layers.
Though I don't use leather boots at the brewery, I'm a huge boot nerd.
One of the biggest rules of leather boot care is letting your boots rest for at least 24 hours before wearing again. This gives time for all the moisture to be wicked away, especially from accumulated sweat while working. Cedar shoe trees are also your best friend, and will help even more with taking away moisture (plus they smell awesome). Put them in immediately after use!
As for leather care itself, coconut oil or Obenauf's oil are both excellent. Brush your boots with shoe brush, or wipe them down with a damp warm cotton cloth. Let dry, then apply the oil to the leather with your fingers, working the it in naturally with the warmth from your body (you'll feel sexy). Let the boots dry overnight, and then they'll be good to go! Coconut oil or Obenauf's will darken the leather a bit, so be aware of that.
I would shoot for twice a month for conditioning - really depends on how hard you work your boots.
Hope that helps!
Hey all,
So I just bought a new to me 2016 f150 with blue jeans color paint. Since this car was more expensive than anything I've ever bought besides my house I want to take care of it as best as I can. For context I live in MI and during the winter will have a garage (that isn't heated) and will have space to clean the car, but no access to a hose or whatever for hosing down the car in the winter.
As far as I can see there is one paint chip on the hood and a few very small scratches by the door handle (they aren't very deep at all). There is some swirls on the window pillars, but there doesn't appear to be any swirling in the paint itself.
I'm having a hard time figuring out how to keep it clean and looking good outside of taking it to a mechanical car wash and then touching it up with some chemical guys vintage quick detailer to prevent water spots.
I don't know if I should do the whole wash, clay bar, and then wax, or if I can just wash and then use a waterless wash/wax combo.
I don't want to do any polishing/cutting work if I don't have to to get the car up to snuff as I don't really trust myself with that.
Basically my idea was to use a regular car wash on the car, and then use something like this: Aero Cosmetics Waterless Car Wash/Wax. to protect it.
Is that not right? Should I wash, claybar and then apply a dedicated wax? I've never waxed a car and am a bit worried about doing it wrong.
Any advice on keeping this as simple and budget friendly as possible? I have a lot of microfiber cloths (Kirkland) as well as window waffle cloths. Just wondering about what else to do and what else to buy.
Thanks for the help and sorry for asking something so simple, this stuff is just so confusing to me!
You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.
Here's some links
Basic steps:
You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
edit: two other tips...
lol why would you use a toothbrush unless you're a masochist!?
You can buy brushes that are like $6-$11 each, with varying bristle stiffness, and they last years.
I bought 3 Mothers brushes like 3 years ago and I'm still using them.
wheel contour brush. Hard bristles, great for tires and rim face.
long handle brush. Medium bristles, great for wheel wells and your wheel's barrel.
Wheel brush. a bonus brush if your feeling a bit extra. Has really soft bristles. Really gets a great lather going on your wheels.
To understand what shoe care needs: Shoe Care Guide
To clean leather products: Saddle Soap
To condition leather products: Venetian Shoe cream (VSC) or Saphir Renovateur or [Allen Edmonds Leather Lotion] (http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/cati2_ShoeCareProductss_1_40000000001_-1________subcategory#facet=&sId=216&sort=5&ps=1000&bi=0)
To "protect" leather you have 2 options:
If you're walking around in snow / rain with dress shoes: Galoshes/ Overshoes
And being more specific helps. If you live in warmer climates, Mink oil and Obenauf's are most likely unnecessary, and products like VSC and Saphir would be great.
Avoid products from DSW and most B&M stores (unless well reviewed and recommended!) and the likes as they aren't great in quality (personal experience) - and if you're spending hundreds on shoes, consider spending a few dollars more to taking care of them goes far.
Watch this for how to clean your seats.
For the rest of the interior like the dash, steering wheel and center console you want an All Purpose Cleaner and then a dressing/protectant to put on after. I like Optimum Power Clean and here's a review I recently did on it.
I use this as a dressing to protect afterwards. Note: most dressings including this one can leave behind a slippery/greasy residue so don't put it on your steering wheel.
The windows can be cleaned with glass cleaner then coated with rain-x or similar to make water bead off of it.
Here's a post I made on cleaning the engine on my Grandma's car. and here's mine after I did it. All you need to do is cover up any sensitive stuff that you don't want to get wet like the alternator or any exposed electrical connectors...I only did the alternator for mine. Then you rinse the entire engine bay lightly with a hose to knock off any loose dirt/grease/grime. Then you soak the whole thing with degreaser...I use this from Home Depot. Make sure you get it into all the small crevices where gunk builds up. Then agitate everything with a brush. I use this one and this one. Once you've scrubbed every inch of the engine bay and worked the degreaser into a foam it's time to rinse everything off with the hose again. The whole process takes only about 10 minutes. One important thing is to not let the degreaser dry on anything. shouldn't be a problem, but don't spray it on your engine then forget about it for a few hours. After a thorough rinse you can remove the bag from over the alternator and dry the engine. If you have a compressor then use it to blow dry all the water out of all the small places it collects in. If not then soak up as much as possible with an old towel then run your engine for a few minutes or drive around for a bit to dry out the rest of it. Then you can dress your engine with something like this or this.
Hope that helps and feel free to ask more questions!
All these products can be replaced with other similar products, these are just the ones that I personally use and like.
Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.
The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.
​
Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.
​
I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.
​
Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..
​
Thank you for any and all feedback!
Touchless car washes don't do shit to clean your car. I spent about $8 on that useless machine, and there was still a layer of dirt on my front/rear bumper, side skirts, and grill. Best thing to do if you're on a budget is buy one of these [microfiber wash mitt] (http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-Chenille-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=lp_3020674011_1_2?srs=3020674011&ie=UTF8&qid=1454030316&sr=8-2) and the next time you head over to one of those self service car washes just pre-soak the car and the mit and scrub one panel at a time and rinse off the mitt with the pressure hose.
Edit : If you're not on a budget i would recommend doing the 2 bucket car wash method once a week or so. After about 4-6 months i would clay bar the vehicle and use ONR as a lubricant. There are many sealants out there, but only a few can last nearly 6 months. Chemical guys has some great sealants and waxes, but they have so many that it confuses the shit out of people. Save yourself the hassle and get some Jet Seal, some microfiber applicators and some microfiber towels and you're set.
Edit 2: Here is a list of tested waxes and sealants i found on the interwebs a few weeks back http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=85205
These have been shown to have lasted more than 4 months
"Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection
Chemical Guys: M-Seal, Jetseal 109, Speed Amor
Klasse AIO and Sealant Glaze
Hi Temp Paste
Zaino AIO, Z2 and Z5
Wolfgang Deep Gloss Sealant."
Hi All!
My family owns a heating oil delivery business and we pride ourselves on having the cleanest and best looking trucks around.
To polish the tanks, we use Mother's Aluminum polish (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y) applied by hand (to avoid swirls, I'm told)
I was wondering if you guys could shed some light on a best approach to keep these looking like a mirror finish? Could a DA polisher be used? Is there a better product than the aluminum polish? Should we be waxing the tanks as well?
Here are a couple of pictures: http://imgur.com/a/IfTnb
Thanks for any tips! I know this is a little unique since it's metal instead of paint!
Sure, awesome find by the way.
After removing all the tubes I wiped it down a few times with just a damp cloth to get the heavy dust off. The real pain is getting rid of the sticky yellowed smoke film that most old tube gear has. The best thing I've found to get rid of it is Zep All Purpose Cleaner. It's green and can be found at Home Depot. The nice thing about it is that you apply it, wait five to ten minutes and gently wipe it off. It takes the grime with it and leaves lettering. Keep it up until the surface is clean and your rag isn't lifting up any nasty yellow anymore. You still have to be careful, if you rub too much or apply too much or leave it on too long it will lift lettering, but it's the most forgiving product I've come across in that respect. I was pretty lucky with this one as it hadn't been smoked around that much.
For the aluminum tube covers I used Mothers metal polish. They transform from dull grey to almost a mirror finish without too much effort. I went a little nuts with the Mothers and polished as much of the steel as I could, like the tuning pot cover (while trying to keep the stickers), the sides of the chassis, and the aluminum capacitor cans. This album shows a before and after.
I removed the face panel, soaked it in Zep first and then used Blue Magic Quick Shine metal polish. I also used Zep on the back but didn't do much else since there's so much lettering around all of the connections that I didn't want to remove it. I soaked the knobs in Zep, used Brasso to shine up the caps, and then used a paper towels and a small stiff brush to get all of the Brasso out of the plastic grooves. I was lucky with the dial glass, it wasn't dirty enough that it need to be removed, I just used Zep and then Windex on the front. If you do remove it, be very careful with the lettering, it comes off easily... I'd only use a damp cloth.
After I fired it up I found I had some dirty switch pots, so I squirted them with a little Deoxit and worked them back and forth. I also used a little clock oil on the pots.
I bought a kit from this guy to replace components. There are plenty of forums (I prefer audiokarma.org) with information and willing members to assist if you want to do it yourself, but the kit takes a bit of the guess work out of it. My album shows everything that was replaced. Basically, it's every capacitor that could go bad and affect the sound, modifying the de-emphasis to modern standard, lowering the voltage (These fishers run crazy hot and eat output tubes at their original voltage), and making it a little safer to operate.
I had to replace the plastic antenna straps which had crumbled from age, one of the brass knob caps that was missing, 3 out of the 4 lightbulbs, and 9 tubes.
I then put the tubes back in and brought it slowly up on a variac for about 3 or 4 hours to reform the can caps. I still have some polishing work on it, but it's pretty much done and sounds great.
Have you powered up your 500B? Is it complete? Pictures?
Ok I was really debating between Obenauf's or sno seal, but I think you convinced me about Obernauf. But which Obenauf's should I use the heavy duty lp http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Heavy-Duty-4oz-Preserves/dp/B003SKCARK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-1&keywords=Obenauf%27s
The boot preservative
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-LP-Boot-Preservative-Preserves/dp/B0002X520S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-2&keywords=Obenauf%27s
Or the silicone water shield
http://www.amazon.com/Obenaufs-Silicone-Water-Shield-Environmentally/dp/B002UBLSO4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1382402091&sr=8-6&keywords=Obenauf%27s
Or maybe a combination of the heavy duty lp and the silicone water shield? I don't want to spend more money then necessary but before I take my boots out into the world I want to make sure they're properly prepared for the elements. Oh and thanks for the help guys! All of this is very informative and helpful.
>I hear mink oil is of dubious quality and in general organic products cause the leather to more quickly deteroriate.
Mink oil and Obenauf's etc. are made for very harsh conditions - unless you're wading through the countryside, it's like putting on a scuba suit when there's a light drizzle outside. If you live in a city, you're fine. Said products will not cause a 'quick' deterioration - it's over a long period of time. They will also cause the leather to darken and lose some of its depth of color.
>What's the deal with cleaning? I'm leaning toward Saddle Soap to clean my boots. How effective is, say, using just a boot brush, regular soap, and wet paper towels to clean dirt from your boots? Can you use a clean t-shirt rag to clean?
Saddle soap dries out leather - it's soap, after all. It's overkill for regular boot care. A damp cloth or rag works fine for cleaning regular messes.
>I'm leaning toward using regular polish and no waterproofers or sealant. Do boots need polish or just shoes? Does polish protect at all? Does the polish process clean at all? I'm assumming you match the polish color to your leather. How important is this match--do you have multiple brown polishes or just one?
Waterproofers and sealant are unnecessary - leather is naturally water resistant and needs to breathe. If they get wet, dry them with a cloth then put in your cedar shoe trees (or crumpled newspaper) to absorb excess moisture. Polish isn't really essential on workboots like those Apaches (since the aesthetic is based around getting them scuffed and beaten up), but it can be used to hide scuffmarks if you want to keep them pristine (IMO missing the point). Polishing doesn't clean by itself, and will probably trap stuff underneath. The importance of the match depends on how specific you are about the boot's color. I don't remember if the Apaches are a pull-up leather, but on boots made of pull-up leather you can get rid of scuffs simply by rubbing them until they disappear.
>I am planning to buy unvarnished cedar trees and a boot brush for cleaning, as they appear to be necessary for the life of the boots. Do you have any suggestions? It seems like most are the same in quality.
Just buy split-toe shoe trees made of actual cedar (instead of plastic etc.). As long as they're in the right size, you're fine.
It appears that you're really overthinking this. Leather is naturally very strong and water-resistant, and doesn't need to be babied with a massive variety of products - at least for a workboot like the Chippewa Apache (high-end dress shoes may require more finesse).
Here's what I do:
Here are a couple videos that'll help with the use of products.
clay bar
everything clay bar, compound, and polish
As for the products I use/like I personally like the Meguiar's Ultimate compound and polish. However there are a ton of other options that do as well/or better. For clay I use a range of products, but for your use I would say Chemical Guys clay bar kit would probably do what you need.
Just an FYI you don't need to invest in a dual action polisher to compound and polish, it can be done by hand and save more than a couple dollars...but it'll take a while. I'd say start with clay and see where you're at afterwords. If you still have a bunch of paint transfer then go from there. Another thing I've heard will remove paint transfer (i've never tried it personally) is a carnauba wax, so if you have some around you can give that a go first.
If you do need paint work (it probably won't be as severe as a key) but this video will probably help if you want to try and tackle it yourself.
Cool, so if you want to do it yourself, the basic things you need will be a clay bar (often sold as a kit with the "quick detailer" you need as a lubricant- see here). You will need a good number of microfiber cloths throughout the process. And then the main thing, is you need a dual-action polisher.
Popular options for the polisher include Harbor Freight, Porter-Cable, and Meguiar's. A lot of people have good results with the Harbor Freight polisher which you can pick up for, off the top of my head, something like $70. The porter-cable 7424XP is like $120ish, and the Meguiar's MT300 is about $200. Of course, if you wanted to spend more, there's Flex and Rupes, but you don't need any of that for personal use.
With the polisher, you will need pads- in your case, some pretty aggressive cutting pads along with finer polishing and finishing pads. There are a ton of options here. I would recommend at least two of each level of aggressiveness.
And with that, you will need compound and polish. Again, lots of options here, but at the very least you will want one more aggressive type of compound and then a finer type of polish.
You'll also want a couple other things, like a brush and soap to clean your pads with, and I recommend looking into using a diluted alcohol solution to clean between compounding and polishing steps.
I personally am a fan of Meguiar's, and in my opinion their lineup makes thing fairly simple. If you want to go the most cost-effective route, you could still buy the Harbor Freight polisher, and then use meguiar's pads and product (many people say the Harbor Freight pads are garbage, I have never used them so I don't really know).
As an example, you could use the Harbor Freight polisher, with Meguiar's microfiber cutting pads and M105 compound, then Meguiar's foam polishing pad and M205 polish.
There are so many options it's easy to get lost and confused, overall I think as long as you do enough research to understand the process of
washing->decontaminating->compounding->polishing
it won't make that much of a difference what products you use.
Look up Junkman's series of videos! In one set he stands up and dances on the hood of his car and then shows you how to fix the damage.
Most of the time I'm living in a flat so what I do it use a quick detailer (US link / UK link) and microfibre (US link / UK link) to keep things clean between proper washes. In fact I keep a bottle of quick detailer and a one of glass cleaner in the car at all times (I wrap a microfibre cloth around the spray head and put the combo in the driver/passenger door pocket).
Basically if you can catch any big, obvious dirt e.g. bird crap, early then it makes things easy.
If you manage to get some time, putting on a good coat of really hard wearing wax (US link / UK link) or sealant (US link / UK link) will be really helpful. It should last a year and make cleaning with quick detailer much easier.
As for the headlights, the yellow colour comes from the plastic oxidising. You need to scrub away that layer and then protect it. Toothpaste works quite well but there are dedicated products like (US link / UK link). Afterwards I'd apply some 303 Aerospace protectant (US link / UK link) which is also great for the interior plastic.
Lexol is a pretty easy catch-all when it comes to cleaning and conditioning, definitely the best bang-for-your-buck, and will minimally color/darken your shoes.
That being said, my new favorite conditioner for oil-tanned leathers (like most IR models) is Saphir Cuir Gras. Much more expensive, but for that you get a higher quality product with more natural ingredients like neatsfoot oil. Also has a very pleasant almond smell.
When it's time to polish the metal, head to your local version of Walmart or Amazon and pick up some aluminum polish. I use Mother's. It's strong enough to work on the metals harmonicas use, but also pretty gentle. Just rub that on and if your cloth starts going black it's working. Get that elbow grease going and every few minutes wipe it off so you can see your progress. Repeat until fine scratches are gone and it's shiny new.
If you have deeper scratches, then you'll need to use sandpaper in increasingly finer grades first. 120 -> 220 -> 400 -> 1000 -> aluminum polish will take a seriously messed up cover plate to shiny new in about 15 minutes total. It's pretty easy to do.
This pack of sandpaperwill do hundreds of harps
Mother's polish
I'd recommend spending the money on a set of Grace USA punches. Bought mine from Amazon and I absolutely love them. I bought these. I also bought this set of Grace roll spring holders. Very useful for starting roll pins. A decent hammer (I have a dedicated brass mallet and a dedicated nylon mallet), and a [bench block]https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-60981-Universal-Bench-Block/dp/B0047WKF84) if you like things to be easy.
I also have a needle file set (don't remember the brand, but they were like $20 for 6-8 of them). For sanding on the internals I generally just use wet/dry sandpaper. Usually start with around 200-grit, and end with 800-grit. For polishing, Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and a white t-shirt. With enough time, it will give a nice mirror finish and be as smooth as ice.
I recently got these boots two weeks ago. I have to say after a brief break-in period of a few days after treating them with Obenauf's and leather lotion they are comfy and the leather has softened well. I've compared the build and leather to my brother's Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots and they are similar enough that you should have one or the other, not both (unless you need another color boot of course). I was deciding between the lighter brown and the cordovan, the reddish brown of the latter looks great and didn't darken or alter after leather treatment.
The sole is by Vibram and I haven't had any slipping issues where I live in NorCal. Replacement of the sole after wear shouldn't be too hard for a cobbler and I plan on caring for these boots for a lifetime.
Sizing wise, I sized a whole size down. I usually wear a 9.5D with my Nike Free Run 2, so I went down to 8.5D. Perfect fit.
I say go for it and pull the trigger, the 30% discount makes the boots worth to try out and return if not satisfied.
If I'm able to ill post pics of them.
EDIT: Had work, took pics before leaving.
Here you go.
My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash,
clay, Iron X treatment,Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:Products Used:
0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!
Perhaps the wax you're using isn't strong enough to protect against the hard water etching. If you're using a carnauba wax, perhaps try switching to a poly wax, like Meguiar's Ultimate Wax. It has a tackier feel to it when it's cured (not slick) so I imagine it forms a thicker, stronger layer of protection over the car.
To fix lots of etching, I recommend getting a DA polisher, porter cable DA is good, here's a whole kit for under $200,: http://www.autogeek.net/poca74pofcop.html?productid=poca74pofcop&channelid=FROOG&utm_source=CSEs&utm_medium=GoogleProductSearch&utm_campaign=CSE&gclid=CJ_twp2IncACFSsV7AodMSwAAA
though I use Meguiar's microfiber DA correction system on mine, a little more expensive but better.
You can try a number of products to "clean" etching by hand. I'd prefer a cleaner polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, a couple meguiar's foam pads, and a quality microfiber. And follow up with an oil-heavy pure polish like Meguiar's Ultimate Polish
Another tip is to avoid letting water dry over your car. If you have a brief shower and your car gets wet with lots of water beads, drive the car around the block, wipe it down with a huge soft microfiber, or use an electric leaf blower to blow the water off. Or get a Metropolitan Master Blaster air dryer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dfGSLSTaOB4
certainly.
also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
If you have a free weekend and really feel like getting your car clean, get a claybar kit like this, and after that's done, give it a nice wax. You will be pretty amazed at how smooth and slick the paint is after this.
Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!
Here's what I learned:
Buy the equipment:
https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46
https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK
https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html
https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)
You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)
Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC
Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO
https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG
Claybar the car:
https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS
It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).
The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.
Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.
My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.
Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:
https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html
Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!
The first thing I would try is this:
Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads
Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels
All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.
Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.
Be careful when using oil on shoes and boots. Most of them will darken the leather. If you plan on repeatedly using the boots in heavy snow or rain oil will help weather proof them. Otherwise there isn't any real reason to. Every couple months give the boots a good rub down with a leather conditioner. It'll help keep the leather from drying out and restore some luster.
I like Lexol; it's cheap, it works and it doesn't darken the leather. A jug this size will last you years. Of course there are plenty of options out there, feel free to do the research. There's a lot to learn. Just keep in mind that products containing oil (especially mink) or wax will darken the leather.
Equally important is to get a shoe brush if you haven't already. With five minutes, a brush and a little elbow grease you can get your boots looking great without having to use any product. You don't want to over condition leather as it can weaken it over time.
Most of the clay out there is very similar, but there are different grades of clay (read: aggressiveness). Nanoskin is great for the "average Joe" who has a reasonably clean car but needs to decontaminate it, and clay is great for a 100% decontamination job like a very dirty or neglected car.
If you're new to claying... I'd suggest getting this kit, or something similar. It has everything you need as a beginner. I used these all the time when I first started detailing. I finally needed more so I bought in bulk and gallons of lube at a time.
The second thing I'd recommend is getting a small, fine nanoskin sponge. You can try it without dropping $45 for a mitt or pad and see if you like it and the results you get when working with it.
It really depends on how much work you want to do. A quick brush shine with some polish will do a lot to make them look better but if you want to rejuvenate them it will take more work.
Step 1. Clean the boot. Saddle soap works but there are good leather cleaners out there. I will link to the one I use. A damp cloth and some elbow grease will work as well, although to a lesser extent.
Step 2. Condition the leather. There are a lot of options. I use lexol with comes with a cleaner. https://www.amazon.ca/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-8-Ounce/dp/B005H7DRQA
Step 3. There are leather repair products that would help fix that tear on the left boot but since these are work boots I wouldn't bother.
Step 4. Brush shine with black shoe polish. Put a little polish on the boot with an applicator brush then brush off the excess with a horse hair brush.
I work in a technical environment in the military and this works wonders.
I drive a 15' BRZ and live in FL
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499474713&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=interior+cleaner
I see 303 get a lot of good reviews on how nice their interiors look after applying. Is 303 a cleaner or just a UV protectant? Am I better off buying something like Chemical Guy's Interior Detailer and Protectant? or Meguiar's
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI-663-InnerClean-Protectant/dp/B008LPKV28/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499476506&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=interior+detailer&amp;psc=1
I keep my interior pretty clean. I do a quick dust wipe with a microfiber every few days so the dust doesn't build up. And every few weeks I'm looking to wipe it down and touch it up with an interior detailer and was wondering which one is preferred.
Neighbor used bug spray to show me how great it would "restore" her headlights. I have already explained that is not a great method.
What's the best way to go about fixing what she did? I'm just planning to wash it and maybe throw some Collinite845 or PlastX on it. (I won't be going through an entire restoration process, at best I'd use the TurtleWax box kit as I've read it's the best off-the-shelf product.)
Get a Megs105 or Ultimate Polish (since its a beater I expect the paint is in need of compounding) $10
If you don't want to compound maybe a wax cleaner, its milder, cheaper and you could probably 1-step your car with it but don't put your expectations high because it only removes mild oxidation and some swirls. $7
If you need a backing plate, go get a 5 inch one $10, you need it
Get an CCS Orange Pad from lake (8-10)
Meguires Gold Class Wax on Target/walmart/amazon $10
I almost forgot but you need to clay before you start the magic and the cheapest one and most awarding one I know is this that's like $11.
Invest a few more dollars and if you want your money back you could always clean your friends car for a few bucks.
Newbie here
Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.
Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?
EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.
Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?
Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0
Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant
Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax
My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.
I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.
If you're trying to keep costs at a minimum then I recommend ditching that kit. Have you googled the Gary dean method of washing? If not then check it out. Basically he uses one bucket and a couple of microfibers as washing media. The pros to this is that 1. You don't have to lug around two buckets. 2. No need for grit guards. 3. After im done washing my car. Since the water is clean I can actually save it for later use. Gary deans method has one downside which is that you have to invest in more microfibers. Honestly, you can buy the ONR, and bucket. Then buy about 6-20 good quality microfiber towels. The clay you have is good and you're on the right track. You can also never go wrong with collinite 845. For the towels I recommend these
Clay bar is so much work but definitely worth the trouble, I try to do it once a year. 2-3 times a year I'll give it a really good wash, use klasse all in one followed by klasse sealant. Dirt/spots buff off with a microfiber, and I can wash the car very quickly once this is done. It does such a great job of creating that protective layer. It's on the expensive side but you use so little of each product that they will last you quite awhile.
Edit: doh, forgot my claybar brand...mother's
WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.
This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.
I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?
EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.
I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.
EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21
EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.
EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.
Interesting, I'll have to give the Mother's QD and clay bar a shot then. This seems like it?.
Thanks! I love it so far, definitely want to keep it looking as good as I can.
Don't use armor all on any interior or exterior pieces of your vehicle if you care about it.
This is some of the best stuff for your dash/console. https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501602370&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=303+aerospace+protectant
Lexol is pretty good for leather, or check out chemical guys whole line of products for a good price to performance ratio.
Are you talking about getting a DA polisher or just washing, cleaning, and sealing? If you're not getting a DA machine and polishing, you can get everything you need to detail your car for about $100 imo.
Get two $5 five gallons n buckets at Home Depot.
Here's a good car wash kit for $60:
TriNova Car Care Kit
If you want to decontaminate the paint ($15):
Mother's Clay Bar Kit
Here's a super-easy to apply sealant that should last 4-6 months, depending on weather and driving habits ($18 with coupon):
Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish
And get a bunch of good quality MF towels ($18 for 12):
12 Pack Microfiber Towels
That's plenty to get started and should be enough product to get you through 10 washes/details.
If you get addicted, be sure to check out The Rag Company for some great drying towels, and look into Optimum No Rinse wash to make maintenance washes a lot easier.
Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
Hope this helps!
So, first I have to say, that's the proper color for a guitar in that finish.
That said, it's your guitar, you can do with it as you see fit. It's yellowed because the outermost layer of the polyurethane finish it's coated with is yellowed. Your best best would be something like this to polish up and remove the yellowing from that outmost layer.
Definitely check in an inconspicuous area first though, it's not exactly a standardized process.
I just toothpasted my car over the weekend. It does indeed work. Just buy some simple Crest toothpaste with whitener in it. I doubt the chemical compounds of the toothpaste do anything, but what you are getting is a very mild abrasive compound.
Take a spray bottle of water, slather up some toothpaste on a rag and cover the head light and buff and buff and buff. When you think you've ground down the surface layer enough, spray more water on and rinse and wipe clean.
If this doesnt do it, you can step up to something like Bar Keeper's Friend mixed with water for more abrasion. You can also try 1000 & 2000 grit wet sanding, however you have to be careful sanding them as you could make the surface even more rough and cause it to cloud up again more quickly.
Follow it up with some Meguiars Plastic X polish and you should be good to go. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B0000AY3SR
So I decided to go for it and take better care of my car detail. Want to make sure I'm not crazy with some questions.
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All right popeye, get yourself a hand applicator, something like Orange Light Cutting CCS Euro Foam Hand Polish Applicator. Then pick up some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and some Meguiar's Ultimate Polish. You should only need like 16 oz bottles which is probably still more than you need.
The auto store will have the compound and polish if you pick it up from there. They might carry a hand applicator.
You should also pick up a clay bar kit, something like Mothers California Gold Clay Bar Paint Saving System to get rid of the contaminants before you start rubbing more swirls into your paint while your polishing.
Looks like delaminating clear coat. I highly recommend using McGuire's to polish just about anything with paint on it. Beautiful product that works wonders. Lovely bike it seems!
I have never used tuff stuff, but I have had good success with Meguairs APC
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469057081&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=d101
Another decent one is 303 multi surface cleaner/303 spot cleaner.
http://www.detailedimage.com/303-M2/Cleaner-Spot-Remover-P15/32-oz-S1/
The process is pretty much the same regardless of which cleaner, You spray it on, agitate it, then blot with a microfiber towel.
If that doesn't work you could try using a steam cleaner
I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:
I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.
Here you go. It works pretty awesome and it makes your car look all shiny. 😀😊
There is a product (I use meguiar's brand) called compound that you can use to minimize the appearance of swirls if applied by hand, and if done with a dual action polisher will remove them completely. It is also great for removing shallow scratches in clear coat and general clear coat issues (aside from flaking and scratches that are deep). Check out /r/AutoDetailing for more info :)
I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!
0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.
1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap
2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.
3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.
4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil
That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.
I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:
I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).
My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.
My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.
Yes. The BLO should be good enough for a working tool. I replace the finish on all my hammers and axes with BLO and they hold up well. The BLO/beeswax can feel nicer in the hand but I'm not sure that it is tougher. Though the leather will do a better job of absorbing the melted wax then wood does.
For leather I prefer obenauf over generic mink oil. I think it does a better job but I haven't run a side by side test. I put that on all leather products so I would put that on first out of habit.
i think those scratches will come out. they dont seem so bad. you can confirm this by running your nail around them and seeing if it catches your fingernail. youll be better off if they dont really catch.
i think i would go with this car kit from meguiars
as well as ultimate compound
and some polish
i would then wash the car, clay the car, scratchx the scratches, plastx the headlights, compound the car, polish the car, then wax the car.
that will definitely do you. if you have more money, check out a bunch of the sidebar lists for more stuff. maximus's pretty much has it all.
edit: and maybe a couple of these mf applicators. i think they are easier to use and spread the product and work it in really well.
I configured 2 months ago and edit button is still
there. Probably because I ordered AWD (non performance) with white seats. It also depends on your reservation number, if you were a previous owner and your location. Some people order long range models are getting them way faster than expected due to so many folks opting for AWD variants since they became available in late July (pent up demand).
As for car washes, everything I’ve read in the forum says only if it’s a laser no touch car wash. Most people recommend hand washing with two bucket method or something like this product below. The issue with traditional car wash machines is it leaves micro abrasions in the paint. Some people care, others don’t. Also, many folks are also paying a premium for paint protection film and/or ceramic coating. I’m planning to use the wash mentioned below and likely get paint protection film only on the front half of the car body.
Aero Cosmetics Wet or Waterless Car Wash Wax Kit 144 Ounces. Aircraft Quality for Your Car, RV, Boat, Motorcycle. The Best Wash Wax. Anywhere, Anytime, Home, Office, School, Garage, Parking Lots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X04JRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SJvLBbV9TYKZ0
A little late to this, but get some clear spray lacquer https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-1906830-Lacquer-Spray-11-Ounce/dp/B0009XCKGA, Home Depot or Lowes will also carry it.
To apply, spray a light coat, dry, 2000+ grit sand paper very light. Repeat 5-10 times. Then use a polish like Novus Plastic Polish -- will only need 2 and then 1 for this use, 3 is for heavy scratches -- https://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU to clean up after the last coat.
Glad to answer any other questions
I had this issue and aside from a tool to get in the corners, you really are simply lacking in good microfibers. Once I bought some good ones for the first time in my life, I realized how crucial towels are in the whole equation of detailing. These are the ones I bought which are just great, in fact the best mf towels I own currently: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=pe_385040_121528360_TE_dp_1
No sweat! Glad the damp rag seemed to work out well. I bought these microfiber cloths a while back that I use to clean up all my flips. They work great and don't shed any lint at all. Great for cleaning up shoes and getting into all the nubs on the bottom.
Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.
Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465225930&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465226066&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465225930&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465225930&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465225985&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5
http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465226014&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=microfiber+applicator
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465226032&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1465226178&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=tire+brush
Honestly, I just use this stuff, Aero Cosmetics Wash Wax All
Spray on, wipe with damp microfiber, wipe with dry microfiber. Takes me 4 cloths to clean my whole car. Granted, I live in Las Vegas and rarely get anything than dust on my vehicle. It’s really easy and looks great, every time.
Sure! Essentially I bought this lexol set and followed their instructions.
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395626153&amp;sr=1-4
I used several different rags and probably cleaned each boot with the cleaner for a minimum of 30 minutes each, probably more. Basically just scrubbing and scrubbing until little to no brown coloring would show up on the white rag when I scrubbed it.
After that, I let it dry for a few minutes and then applied the lexol leather conditioner, because the cleaner pretty much strips all of the good oils and stuff out of the leather (disclaimer, I really don't know all that much). I conditioned it again a couple of weeks later just to make sure it wasn't drying out if I hadn't conditioned it enough the first time. That's pretty much it!
Thanks!
I'm definitely a rookie that's been watching youtube videos to learn and haven't really spend much on tools.
Foam Cannon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WPKHFA6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Pressure Washer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NBVBT3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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As a test run I used Meguiar's Gold Class: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO/ref=sr_1_7?crid=BG425GLTKNPI&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash&qid=1555861387&s=gateway&sprefix=meguiars+gold+c%2Clawngarden%2C144&sr=8-7
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Honestly, the result vs effort in this method is really good. It's not a spot on wash but it was a quick wash and cleaned up nicely overall. I will definitely keep working this method in the future.
Spot this guide. I've learned that /u/a_robot_with_dreams is a god with GYW.
Interesting enough, only a few hours ago was I reading about shoe care today. So basically, unless you are trudging through the depths of hell, stick with just leather conditioner. That can be [Venetian shoe cream] (http://www.foresupplyco.com/productDetail.asp_Q_catID_E_48_A_subCatID_E_55_A_productID_E_703_A_strSession_E_11CDE680EB31BEC5B749AC768C51E5CDB07E9B03), Obernauf's leather oil cleaner, or whatever. You will not need all those waxes and such, as mixed in with Obernauf's Heavy Duty LP. Do your best to not use too much conditioner.
Seems like the steps are, when you do your monthly or biannual or whatever schedule conditioning you choose...:
5a. Optional: Polish or wax if you're a clean mofo or likes to get down and dirty like mentioned above. Re: Polishing (and wax?)...seems like it's mostly on dress shoes and formal footwear. Since we're talking about boots, skip
Repeat every blue moon or something.
I'm new to the Mazda club as well ('16 CX-5 GT), and I've read on other forums that 303 is very popular for cleaning and protecting vinyl and leather on car interiors.
I just bought some, and plan to test it on the wife's car first to make sure everything checks out :) I'll be interested to hear what others recommend.
Yep, that's exactly it. Get a 32oz bottle of it and just dilute it at 1:16 with distilled water. You can use it to clean the wheel, as well as the other interior parts. It works great on the faux carbon fiber because other interior cleaners with UV protectants leave streaks that are hard to get off the shiny plastic. The ONR works great, you can use it to quickly wipe off the outside of your car too.
All you need is 2 buckets and a good wash mitt/drying mf towel and good soap.
Use the power washer and hose at the self wash. Done.
I recommend upgrading to a better wash mitt and drying MF over time.
As mentioned by another modeler you can use polishing pads.
Micro Mesh are good. These pads are also useful, I use them wet and in order. I also cut them into smaller pieces to make polishing easier.
As for a polishing compound, I found this one to be good. It also works well on the lenses of modern 1:1 size cars if you need them to be as bright as new. ;^)
I'm honestly a little shocked a shop would give you the car back like that. When I was detailing for a living, there were very few cars I detailed that I couldn't get all the water spots off of, but even those never looked as bad as that when I was done. I hope you didn't have to pay much for that.
Having said that, [Meguiar's Ultimate Compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM/) is what I would use. It's probably the most newbie friendly cutting compound that I've used, but there is still the chance of burning through the paint with it. I would probably go to another detail shop and see what they could do.
Have you ever tried rinse-less carwash? I live in an apartment complex without a car washing bay and it has saved my life. Super easy to use and all you need is a bucket of water and a good amount of microfiber towels!
https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1A5MPFJXPB92&keywords=rinseless+car+wash&qid=1567781917&s=gateway&sprefix=Rinseless+car%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-4
Looks like you can clean it. Copper should be pretty easy. Plenty of info on that. Acrylic can be a biatch though. I use Meguiar's PlasticX and a microfiber cloth (and in your case a toothbrush). Just be sure to rinse it really well with DW. The question really is "is at block worth the time to clean?" as it will take quite a bit of elbow grease.
I would check with r/autodetailing first, but I think they like automotive specific all purpose cleaner and an interior brush. I use this https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D10101-Detailer-Purpose-Cleaner/dp/B0006SH4GE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505776624&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=Car+all+purpose+cleaner I don't know if it's the best, but autodetailing recommended it and I got it. It seems to work. You can wet dry vac it out.
Awesome! You definitely helped. One final question if it's ok. Will the following steps (in order) be good for a first time wash/detail?
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CUAWJ6G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER), while using this as the lube for it?
You want a non-rinse all-purpose cleaner/surfactant. Folex is one, Meguiars D101 is another.
Apply a bit, agitate with a soft upholstery brush, wipe up with a microfiber cloth.
Note: The D101 is a professional product which you dilute for use. If you want a ready-to-use version, try this, but you've just given up your ability to alter the dilution ratio. At 4:1, this stuff is a good tire cleaner and all around "clean anything that's not paint" cleaner. At 10:1 it's an interior cleaner. That big bottle will last you a long time.
The reviews on this are all over the map, but I love it. Once you spray it on it sticks to the rim and eats away at the chain lube, mud, and other road grossness that accumulates on your wheels. Get a nice solid brush to help reach into the crevices and enjoy your showroom wheels.
I used Lexol for my brand new glove last year and then, play catch a lot. I saw a video on YouTube about it and give it a chance.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H7DRQA/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687662&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B000637TNM&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=00WTQ71RB2S53X1ZGBDE
This product is great, you can even use it regularly to clean the glove.
I highly recommend it.
Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.
Basic mineral oil or beeswax or a combo.
You can gently melt down some beeswax IN mineral oil and then rub it all in, let it dry, and then wipe off excess.
Even simpler is to get some Howard's Butcher Block Conditioner at Lowes or Home Depot. It is just beeswax and mineral oil pre-mixed. It works best if gently heated or if you apply it to your handle and then use a hair dryer to gently heat the handle. That way the wax and oil get deep down in the leather.
You could also use Obenauf's to condition and protect.
First, you should check /r/autodetailing
There's lots of options and everyone will have their favorites based on experience. One thing's for sure though, stop wiping down with ONLY water as that is probably making things worse other than getting some dirt and grime off. It makes the leather dry and prone to even more cracks. You need some sort of leather-specific PH-balanced cleaner and a conditioner to follow it.
My favorite value option that's easily sourced from your local Advance Auto/AutoZone is Lexol. Amazon has a kit that's pretty cheap for you to see if you like the results:
http://www.amazon.com/Lexol-907-Leather-Care-Kit/dp/B005H7DRQA
Gliptone is also another well-liked value option:
http://www.amazon.com/Gliptone-Leather-Care-Combination-Kit/dp/B003VV423G
There are other higher end brands like Leatherique and Leather Master, but the results just didn't feel it was worth the price difference.
As for the dashboard, avoid junk like Armor All. Go with something like Einszett Cockpit Premium: http://www.amazon.com/einszett-Cockpit-Premium-16-9-fl/dp/B0002Z2MZ4
You jdon't need a buffing wheel. Just a microfiber cloth, some polish and some elbow grease. The buffing wheel would certainly speed things up, but pointless to buy for a one time use.
This is the 3 step process product that I'd recommend.
https://www.amazon.com/Novus-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=novus+plastic+polish&amp;qid=1549942602&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
In the future, know that those magic erasers are abrasive. Good luck.
Sure
This is the one I currently use: Chemical Guys MIC_493 Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0tgFxb1M1HBR5
Literally the only CG product I own. I like that it's green so I can see the dirt. However here is one that is highly rated, but is blue, but if you don't mind that these ones seem good too, especially if you have a large vehicle. Plus you can dedicate one to the upper and lower half or however
Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - 2 pack Extra Large Size - Premium Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt - Wash Glove - Lint Free - Scratch Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B25IXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0vgFxbQ8H8HA9
I used a 5,000 grit sandpaper from the auto parts and headlamp polishing. You need to be patient and do a few applications. I feel like I am not done but it sure looks a lot better than when I picked it up :)
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12310-PlastX-Plastic-Cleaner/dp/B0000AY3SR
Don't worry too much, you should be able to clean it up. Here are the steps I'd take, from least invasive to most...
Back to my initial statement: I have a suspicion that this will come off pretty easily! (and sorry for the wordy response...)
Got an easy detailing guide for beginners? I know /r/AutoDetailing exists, but there's a lot of info to get through there. I just got some of this stuff and it seems to work pretty well, but don't know much about waxing/clay baring or anything like that.
Not a prob. I think they're all pretty much the same formula but this is the popular one. Great stuff
Most new tents do come with a waterproof coating. But over the years they can lose the coating, allowing the water to "wet" through the material. There are various ways you can reapply a coating, but Camp Dry is generally the cheapest and easiest... but from reports I've seen Atsko Silicone Guard works much better and I'll give that a try once my current can of Camp Dry runs out.
For shoes... it depends on the material. Camp Dry is silicone based and uses petroleum product as a thinner; it's OK for materials like tents, but it's not great for natural materials like leather, nubuck or suede. For good leather boots, I use Obenauf's Leather Protector. For nubuck or suede, they have water-based sprays, Nikwax has one and Uggs has their own which is what my wife uses on hers. Have to be careful with leather and suede since products can damage them and/or cause discoloration.
I use Camp Dry on tents, tarps and umbrellas, but don't bother with backpacks or any other camping gear.
I just do the Aero Wash Wax All once a week and sometimes spot clean when kids get their prints on the doors.
With my silver cars I barely ever did anything but I also cared a lot less. The black is a total finger print magnet. There aren’t any touchless washes close enough to me that I’d go to all the time. For now the 15 mins per week wash seems to work ok :)
I was a wildland firefighter for a few seasons, and we had to use full leather boots (any flammable/metal materials were too much of a liability when running through fire) and to take care of my stupidly expensive boots i used Obenauf's LP and it worked wonders. Made from beeswax and absorbed quite quickly it kept my leathers supple and durable. I still keep a tin of it around to massage into wear areas on my leather jackets and riding pants. Knees and elbows love this shit.
In regards to general care I wish I had more advice for you but this stuff makes leather happy, that I do know.
I actually LOVE the chemical guys gold MF towel
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=chemical+guys+microfiber&amp;qid=1557973969&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=chemical+guys&amp;sr=8-3
I've used many different types of towels and these just suit me the best. They're cheap enough ( I got a pack of 12 for $16 so I bought as many as I could afford.)
They last a long time with proper care but ate cheap enough that I'm not afraid to toss them when necessary. Enjoy!
Well these don't take to snow/rain too well. I recommend to get some obenauf's LP to somewhat waterproof it. It won't make it a rain boot but it will make it water resistant.
Clean off salt stains on the thing and you should be fine for light snow and small amounts of rain. Of course, let it dry if you were soaking in some rain/snow. Applying the obenauf's also darkens the leather to make it look more like a darker version beeswax on the desert boot (which is the crepe sole with a slightly darker leather , see here for comparison).
The leather will lighten up over time after applying obenauf and I actually have pictures here of only the after shots with about 3 months of wear after obenaufs LP (I also applied obenauf's oil though so it is actually darker than it should be).
I agree with everyone that it's rail dust, or just iron particulates that get embedded in to your clear coat. initial removal will take care of most of it, but know that with a white vehicle, it'll show up occasionally, even with waxing.
Instead of plain clay bar, I'd recommend getting a nano-skin. works like clay bar, but much easier to use (you can drop it and simply rinse it off). I just use any quick detail spray as a lube.
nanoskin
Whistles That is one NICE looking hood, you almost have me drooling on what the truck could look like. Ok so!
1st: Nice two bucket cleaning
2nd: Clay the car. was thinking of ordering this. From what I picked up from that Porsche 912 video in the sub and from the sidebar, I spray the clay lubricant on, then with little to no pressure wipe back and forth with the clay in a 18"x18" area. Does that sound right?
3rd: Acquire rubbing compound and hopefully a DA polisher. (By the way if getting a DA polisher isn't possible, is this still attainable by hand?)
4: Nice coat of wax
How does that sound?
I love Larry's videos from AMMO NYC & DRIVE Clean and have always followed his recommendations for detailing/washing.
Opinion: I think this at 1/4 of the price will do almost an identical job to the ammo http://www.amazon.com/S100-13700W-Carnauba-Paste-Wax/dp/B000GZQP08/
These carnauba waxes will not last long... especially in heat.
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Instead of the gold, go with the ultimate like the other dude said, AMAZING wax for the price:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/
This stuff will last a long time. great beading.
Meguiars PlastX works like a charm. It's easier than toothpaste or any of these 5 step sandpaper-polishing compound kits, you just wipe it on, wipe it off and your headlights look great.
There are lots of ways to clean the boots, using saddle soap is probably your best bet. Obenauf's is your best bet for protecting them.
If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:
I recommend using a plastic polish. You can do it by hand but if you have a drill, or even better a random orbital buffer it goes pretty quickly.
Not at all.
I have two lights mounted this way. The one that's a little further forward is getting it's finish blasted off, and the one that's a little further back has a small piece of the front lens sanded down. They both work perfectly well and the lenses are easy to clean with some plastic polish.
Edit:
Here's the finish wear on my 7.5" SBR: http://i.imgur.com/lft2z9A.jpg
Here's the lens wear on my 11.5" SBR: http://i.imgur.com/04HNaZm.jpg. I've rotated it to even it out a bit.
Can you please link me to the MIC_506_12 you are looking at?
I found this 12 pack on Amazon... does not look like 46% off for me though. Still a pretty solid deal.
I am also curious, what would be a good use for these different microfiber:
Temporary fixes are fairly simple.
Just about any rubbing compound will knock off the layer of oxidation.
For example, wheel-polish. For a very good fix, either buy a full headlight restore kit. Or put together your own.
I've had very good luck with Meguiars's PlastX followed by Klasse Sealant Glaze