Reddit mentions: The best car engine cooling & climate parts

Awesome!

As a pro-tip, some people complain that the lowest setting on the HMW is still too intense for them. There are two common methods of dealing with this.

The first is simply to drape a washcloth over your clitoris to act as a mechanical damper. You'd likely want to use something soft, fairly thick, and I'd recommend wetting it with warm water, which will both make it a more efficient mechanical damper and serve to relax the muscles surrounding your pubic area.

The second is to use a voltage controller, commonly a fan-speed controller like this one, to vary the voltage reaching the HMW. While some users have advocated this method, I've looked into the theory along with other users, and it was inconclusive whether the motor used in the HMW can be safely or effectively regulated through voltage modulation. Be aware that if you attempt this, you definitely run the risk of potentially burning out the motor of your HMW, and if left unattended, it could even potentially cause a fire.

If you want to be particularly adventuresome, there are also a number of aftermarket (third-party) heads that are sold as attachments for the HMW. Certainly worth looking into if you think you might be the kind of girl that prefers vaginal stimulation to clitoral stimulation.

Best of luck to you!

Ninja-Edit: Definitely thought I was posting this to /r/sex based on the subject matter. If you have any questions, success stories, etc., I would highly recommend posting them over there. It's an absolutely amazing, knowledgeable, supportive, and accepting community where you can seek advice or merely share in the knowledge that there are lots of people in the same boat as you. Following that sub changed my sex life, and arguably my life as a whole.

Fellow Texan here. Get some suction cups from Amazon and use those to secure the plate to your windshield, where it's clearly visible (about 4 inches up from dash so it's at least above the wiper blades)

I had a long chat with a cop once when I got pulled over for speeding (I had his attention so I made good use of the time, he was really friendly). Technically, the Supreme Court hasn't ruled on what constitutes the "front" of the vehicle. So for the time being, they can't ticket you for not having a plate on the front bumper. As long as the plate is clearly visible from in front of the vehicle, your good.

I've had my plate cupped to the windshield for over two yeas now and have been stopped multiple times for speeding (I know, I never learn) but have never once had my front plates placement in the windshield be an issue. Suction cup it in the windshield where it's clearly visible and you'll be totally cool.

Here's what I use:

http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410485443&sr=8-1&keywords=License+plate+suction+cups

They fit perfectly through the holes in the plate and they have really strong suction, your plate definitely won't fall off or move at all.

Go to the hardware section in Lowes, there will be an Automotive subsection, buy some black push-pins. I went with the Nissan push-pins, they have one bigass hook and once it's in there it's secure as fuck. The Chrysler push-pins work as well, they've got about a dozen little splines on them which hold it pretty securely. Use those to fill the holes left by the license plate frame.

All-in-all, you'll be looking really good for less then $10.

Okay, take all this for what it's worth (your mileage may vary, I am not a lawyer, I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night, yada yada yada).....

I bought an '02 WJ in Feb (to replace my '01 XJ) and had similar issues like you're describing. Based on my experiences with my XJ previously, when it comes to the cooling system I tend towards doing a complete overhaul in one go rather than addressing one component at a time.

For your rig, you've got 4 main components to deal with (in my opinion) when it comes to the cooling system:

• radiator & cap
  
• water pump
  
• thermostat
  
• electric fan and relay/controller
  
  If you've already replaced the fan & relay/controller, you should be able to (mostly) rule that out. If you need to check and see if it's running, physically pop the hood and look. It should also be on full time when you switch the AC on.
  
  You've replaced the waterpump, but you say it's "steaming". From where? Grab a flashlight and see if you can figure out where the steam is coming from. It might simply be that you either didn't torque the bolts down enough and it's leaking under pressure, or the surfaces the gasket sandwiches between weren't cleaned resulting in a poor seal, or a combo of both. If it's visibly coming from anywhere around the gasket, you might need to pull the pump and re-do it with a fresh gasket & gasket sealant. Make sure the surface of the block is scraped clean of all the old gasket material and use a good gasket. I have a low opinion of the ones that come with the water pumps and will spend the $$$ on a Fel-Pro (Fel-Pro 35629 water pump gasket).
  
  Check your coolant for debris, particles, any fines or silts that you can see, etc. If the radiator has never been replaced, odds are good that in the 16 years your WJ has been running the radiator is clogged. If you replace the radiator, a good flush of the cooling system will get rid of most of that junk so you don't end up clogging the new radiator and get a fresh 50/50 mix of coolant in there. Top it off with a new Stant radiator cap while you're at it.
  
  Same deal with the thermostat, it may simply be time to get a new one. Consider getting a new housing & gasket while you're at it. Not necessarily a requirement, but I tend towards replacing the housing when I do the thermostat "just because".
  Stick with the OEM 195° thermostat - I ran my 4.0L XJ with the 180° thermostat during the summer in Vegas (100°+ routinely for months) and it noticeably helped but I went back to the 195° thermostat after summer temps ended. If that's your climate, the 180° thermostat might be good for a while but I don't recommend it as a straight replacement.
  
  Is replacing nearly everything in the cooling system overkill? Maybe so, but I take into consideration my WJ is 16 years old (like yours) and I have no idea what kind of maintenance the previous owner has done. So it may cost a little bit, but it's worth it to me knowing all the main parts to the cooling system are "like new" which should eliminate overheating issues.
  For a little bit of perspective on why I think that way (ie- total overhaul) this is what the thermostat on my '01 XJ looked like when I replaced it a few years ago: https://imgur.com/a/FvZQi9E
  The extra ring looking piece to the right of the thermostat is piece of another thermostat that was inside the block.
  When I replaced the radiator on my WJ, I pried off one of the end tanks the core was clogged like you wouldn't believe.
  
  Once you've gone through all that, you also have the option of installing a mechanical clutch fan. This thread on JeepForum gives some good info and links. The tl;dr for that is to go grab this Hayden 2787 fan clutch and this Dorman 620-602 fan and spin it onto the threaded nose on the water pump.
  
  I've got the Torque app with a bluetooth OBD-II scanner so I can check the real numbers vs what the dash gauges are showing. Trust me, you can be running hot before the temp gauge starts to creep past the halfway mark.
  
  After replacing all the bits & pieces I talked about above, and installing a mechanical clutch fan, my WJ is running cold. Yesterday was high 90s here in Vegas, and idling in a parking lot w/ the AC on the temp never broke 200°. Creeping through traffic on the freeway w/ AC on hit 206°-210° but didn't get higher. Driving about 75-80mph for a while, and it was in the 190°-195° range.
  These are the same temps I was seeing with my XJ after I did the cooling system overhaul, so I have no doubt when it starts breaking 100° here in Vegas I won't be seeing any overheating issues with the WJ.
  
  

For my WJ, I removed the electric fan entirely because the relay kept failing, even after replacing it with a brand new relay four times. I still don't know why that kept happening. I replaced the electrical fan with a beast of a mechanical fan, an 11-blade viscous-clutch fan. The only way to remove the fan shroud (which is what the electric fan mounts to) is to also remove the mechanical fan, sadly, as far as I know. To make things easier, I only have the fan shroud attached by the top two bolts, and it stays on absolutely fine with no vibration or anything. It's nice not needing to worry about electronics failing now... the fan just always runs when it has to, and worst-case, the clutch is the only thing that can fail, and if it does then it will just be stuck on full blast all the time which is literally fine lol.

If you're interested, here's the setup I have for the mechanical fan, which is guaranteed to keep the engine even cooler than the electrical fan ever could:

The fan blades

The fan clutch

You'll need to get from your hardware store: four m10x1.5x12mm bolts. My hardware store didn't have any of that exact length so I had to get 25mm length and just cut them down to 12mm. Pretty easy with a Dremel and cutoff disk.

If you have any other questions, feel free to respond to this comment. I highly recommend upgrading to the proper mechanical clutch fan setup if you're having issues with cooling the engine. For under a hundred bucks you can make the upgrade using the Amazon links above. Hope this helps!!

I agree it looks promising and the price is OKish although the remaining visible damage from the (literal!) fender bender wouldn't be cheap to fix. Rust is always the #1 concern to watch for. Seller claims none but you should confirm this yourself, especially considering your location. Look for damage behind the fender and under the hood. I'd watch for bent suspension components.

On the plus side black NA paint is single stage and oh-so-restoration friendly. Seller is correct with statements about the "Black and Tan" 1992 Miata. BBS center caps are missing, and somewhat hard/costly to obtain if you want them. Glass rear window indicates a replaced top, probably a good thing. Bonus if it includes the original boot cover because the tan ones are going up in price on eBay. I got one for $100 in June but they were all $130+ last I checked.

Ultimately this resource is the gold standard for Miata inspection: http://www.miata.net/faq/usedmx5.html

Bring tools. Be careful if you pull and inspect spark plugs; do not tighten more than 11-17 ft-lbs (132-204 in-lbs). Not noted in that guide is the radiator color. Black is OK. Olive is showing age. Brown is time to replace ASAP. Miata engines do not like to overheat, so a well-sorted cooling system is critical. But replacement TYC on Amazon is affordable and easy direct swap.

Good luck! Post back with an update if you look at it or buy it.

I added Sumosprings to mine combined with a 6k wdh.
Mine has factory tow package.
Avg 10-12 mpg on hilly terrain.
Under 65 mph hwy.

Here is fan
Heng's 90043-CR Replacement Vortex I Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N1J5IM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_G8q0BbHRYQ15J
The frequently bought together link shows PWM speed control. Read fan reviews for how to.

Fridge fan was an ebay kit I found for $20ish.
12v computer fan and wiring with switch.
Mounted fan with zip ties on inside of top vent to pull hot air out.

Had room for 2nd battery alongside first on tongue. Bought battery from Costco, cables and battery box on Amazon.

Starcraft screen is a roll up style that retracts.
Keeps bugs out, more natural light and nice cross breeze.

Have considered ramp door as a potential deck, but with little ones and no railings like bigger models I passed.

Yours have roof or side A/C?
If roof, then the odd counter space above fridge makes a great place for a 3 drawer Sterlite plastic shelf. We put one up there when onsite.
Without much storage it helps for longer getaways.

Enjoy!

As someone who lived in Ohio for a few years and doesn't like that ugly license plate on the front of the car, try some of these. I got the OK from a cop for having my front plate mounted visibly at the top of my windshield, but I was up in Chardon so who knows. Great looking car!

Ed: had a few guys chime in to say they've been pulled over for having the front plate in the windshield. Best solution I have is to move to a state that respects cars.

The iPower fans seem to be junk. Here's the one I bought: a 6" Hydrofarm, 400CFM (actually an ActiveAir brand fan). Much better than the 175 the ipower 6" was pushing.

It's loud at full blast, and probably more than you need. This is good though, because you can get a speed controller to turn it down. The fan gets much quieter even at 75%, and I run mine at less than 50% to cool my small cab w/aircooled 400w HPS. You can get this speed controller if you don't mind a slightly annoying electric hum from your fan (I have this and sleep in the room with it at night), or you could get the more expensive variac controller that eliminates this hum (and probably helps your fan last longer too).

The centrifugal inline fans are much more powerful than the axial booster fans, and will force air through a carbon filter easily, so get one that is sized correctly for the fan. (heres mine, sized for that hydrofarm/activeair fan)

I keep a steady 78º-79ºF in the cabinet (2.5'x1.5'x4' grow space) with 75º-77ºF ambient room temps, and the air exhausted right back into the room (central air keeping the room at 76ºF helps).

So here's the deal. The 2003 Accord is known for its rather weak automatic transmission. From what I've heard, it has a lot to do with heat buildup. My girlfriend's car has 210,000 miles and most likely needs to push another 50,000. The transmission shifts fine and I want to keep it that way. So, I added another larger oil cooler to the system, along with a spin-on filter to hopefully catch some particulates. I know the transmission has a filter, but they say its not serviceable and I feel like the extra surface area of the larger filter could help with cooling as well. I decided to put the oil filter between the two coolers so that the filter could catch the crap that may be stuck up in the existing cooler.

Hopefully this spurs an idea in someone else's head, it really wasn't all the difficult and (i hope) will save me thousands in the long run

SUPPLIES:

Spin-on filter and mount

Extra hose

Aftermarket cooler kit

Genuine Honda ATF

Extra spin on nice filter

Beautiful car, and great photos!

Clear side markers are available here, and install in minutes.

Also, if you need to temporarily attach a front license plate when parking (e.g. street parking in VA cities), these work well.

Enjoy your new ride, and I hope the break-in period goes quickly!

I'm not Big Al, but here's my two cents.

• Every team should have a Battery Beak. I think the first one any of my teams bought was in 2815 in 2013, then I showed it to 1293 who historically stayed past the peak of the adoption curve for financial reasons. They went out and bought one, it's that good at preventing bad batteries from going out and that easy to use.
  
• Inspect your battery. Dents? It's shot. Inside these batteries are glass plates that divide each cell. When the glass breaks, it loses voltage. When the glass breaks only a little, it will lose voltage when it heats up (say, when a robot is drawing 100A from it). Which means it fails on the field.
  
• Did you ever see someone lift it by the cables? It's shot. There's no strain relief on those metal tabs, just a straight connection to those glass plates.
  
• For deeper testing, lots of people like the CBA IV for load testing batteries down to a certain voltage since it'll keep a constant load. You could do a poor-man's version with a car heater or two and watching the driver station logs. (200W is 16A, or about six CIMs spinning at free speed with nothing attached. You want a good solid discharge for this, so the battery chemistry will warm up. Two heaters would absolutely do the trick.) Any sudden voltage drops indicate bad cells, and it should be recycled.
  
• For most teams, you're only going to get 1-2 good seasons out of a battery before it needs to be demoted to practice and demo duty. Be sure to mark when a battery first goes into service.

Cheapest best: Spectra CU1193 (Autozone A1193)

Best: Mopar 52080104AC

Do not listen to ebay 3-row all-aluminum marketing wank. The Mopar is the best design.

You oil and beat to get your motor off? Ok that did not sound right lol but anyways, I would suggest that you invest in a wheel puller.

https://www.amazon.com/Blade-Wheel-Puller-Original-Version/dp/B001CGFQDW/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1PF6TH183QH2Z&keywords=hvac+wheel+puller&qid=1565732781&s=gateway&sprefix=hvac+wheel%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-3

I use one all the time and I never have any troubles. It is like God blesses me every time I have to pull a motor off.

I've used a super ambi lowel kit for years (as a mobile shooter) and they are great lights, if you know how to use them. I shot 4 spots for a major tech company last week and used my 6 light kit to great effect. You can get some gel frames for these lights and use basic diffusion instead of the umbrellas. Grab a couple of these and use them as dimmers: http://www.amazon.com/SE-Electronic-Stepless-Speed-Controller/dp/B000HQAVNI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394512495&sr=8-2&keywords=router+control

I don't think your needs are great. I would generally look for a laptop with the following specs:

- Quad core 8th gen "U" model CPU like the Core i5-8250u. Less powerful than the "H" model CPUs like the i5-8300h or i5-9300h, which can sustain higher clock speeds, but generate more heat and consume more power. These "H" CPUs are generally not used in thin & light laptops, with the exception of some thin and light gaming laptops

- 16GB of RAM. Probably a bit overkill, but lots of Chrome tabs can eat a lot of RAM.

- A SSD of any size you wish to have. I generally recommend at least 256GB.

- With regards to being able withstand "baking in a car"; I generally recommend a laptop that has passed the Dept of Defense's MIL-Spec requirements for electronics operating under harsh environments. Dell Latitudes and Lenovo ThinkPad T and X series would be at the forefront with ThinkPads ahead of Latitudes. If you plan on leaving the laptop in the car for an extend period of time when you are not driving, then I recommend you purchase a car window ventilator so that hot air does not build up in the car. An example is linked below. The laptop would need to be in the passenger cabin for this to work;, not the trunk or glove compartment. Stow the laptop under the driver or front passenger seat to keep it out of sight.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9F38P5/ref=psdc_15725361_t1_B07BPV59BP

I actually just saw this one today. Since your in oregon I would say the one plus is that he replaced the top. Another is the reasonably low miles. As for the negatives as stated before the radiator will need to be replaced very soon as it is very brown. You can get this one as it a OEM replacement but for very cheap. It is koyo brand so it is a reputable brand and you get it for 90.00 shipped. While doing that I would suggest doing the main coolant hoses as well which will be around another 100.00. I would suggest taking the stock rims and using that money towards a good set of wheels that arent 17s. With that you would be at 3000 with around 200.00 of parts to replace right away so I would ask 2700 once you take the car for a spin and go up from there because you can negotiate knowing there are things needing to replaced already. Unless there are any other noticeable things that you see wrong with it once you take a test drive 2700-2800 would be a fair price in my eyes. Also be sure he has replaced the timing belt and water pump as this is the mileage where it should have been done pretty recently.

I have an update on my own blend door problem. Because I'm a glutton for punishment I went ahead and bought the Dorman replacement that I mentioned in my other comment and did it myself instead of taking it to Ford. I can confirm that the Dorman part is significantly heavier, physically thicker and higher quality than the OEM unit. The gear set is in a slightly different arrangement and the gears themselves are more robust. I can also confirm the overall shitty quality of the OEM part.

The install wasn't quite a nightmare, but it was challenging. I used this video as reference though I didn't have to take the driver's seat out. I also had this handy mini ratchet which was absolutely perfect for the job along with a T20 bit. Now the tricky part which I wasn't quite sure of going in: I switched the car on and turned off the HVAC assuming that doing so would put the actuator in some sort of parked position. This probably isn't necessary since it likely goes back to the same position when the car is turned off. Anyway, after removing the OEM blend door I noted which position the output shaft was in. There's a little arrow on the casing that part of the gear lined up with. The new unit's output shaft wasn't in the same orientation. So, I plugged the Dorman unit in but didn't install it, turned the car on and switched the HVAC on and off to put the new unit in the same position as the OEM one. After that I noticed the output shaft still wasn't in the correct orientation. So, I had to open it up and take out one of the drive gears so I could reorient the output shaft. Once I did this the new unit slid into position pretty easily and I tested it out and BAM, no noise and the climate control works as expected. Now to see if this one lasts longer than 13,000 miles but after seeing the two parts together I really think it will. Hope this helps someone!

Edit: So I've got everything in one place for people stumbling across this here's the link to the Dorman part. It is Dorman 604-400 Air Door Actuator replacing OE part BE8Z19E616B

The best starting place is to get your compressors model number, mine is a sanden compressor and this is what the model number should look like on the label: https://i.imgur.com/T6bfZuF.jpg

​

It is the 1K0820859Q line, that will ensure you get the correct RCV, here is the one I needed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HC6GZSK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

In the product description it lists the compatible models of compressors for this one.

Get one of these - they are cheap and totally worth it.

I had a TD-100 (100 CFM) that wasn't powerful enough to really pull through my 200 CFM-rated Phresh carbon can.

Also, the TD-100, even on high setting, would barely turn on unless the fan speed controller was dialed almost to maximum speed.

I replaced the TD-100 with a TD-150 (300 CFM, 6", big brother). That thing works GREAT with the speed control.

I suspect your TD-125 will be fine with the speed control, esp. if you rewire it to the faster setting internally.

Worth the $20 or so, hands down.

I used the same filter with the cheap Ventech fan and it worked great.

My guess would be you arent creating negative pressure in the tent or the can-fan needs to be turned down with a speed controller to allow more air contact with the filter.

Cruiser Accessories 78410 Suction Cups, Clear, 4 pack – approx. 1” each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vG3Hzb2CWADSZ


They fit perfectly in the Model S front plate plastic holder, not sure if it works on other cars.

well, if you have a traditional vent, there is the fan insert that is about $45 on Amazon. A PWM speed controller is about $8. Comes w reverse.

will look up the parts.

as far as 'rain proof', install a vent cover.

The Fantastic series has a rain sensor model that will close the vent. About $300+

https://www.amazon.com/Hengs-90043-CR-Replacement-Vortex-Fan/dp/B002N1J5IM

https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-Controller-Adjustable-Reversible-reversing/dp/B01H1W79S0

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Camco-40421-RV-Aero-flo-Roof-Vent-Cover-White/29764356

so, $45+8+22, or $300+

No that's the problem, once the lunge starts it can't be fixed without rebuild (and still then it can come back)

The best things to do it change the trans fluid and filter. I've done mine every 50k since 80,000 and it's worked out pretty good, just did it at 230k and it was nice and pink (small amount of metal shavings on the magnet attached to the pan but nothing abnormal).

I've never power flushed it because everyone I've ever talked to says against it, but I did add a transmission fluid cooler to keep the fluid temp down. The #1 killer of auto trans are heat and overheating. I installed it though the rubber lines the lead to the radiator and it's worked out good as well. At the point your at its all about keeping it healthy and operating

Ahh, heating issues, sometimes very easy, sometimes the most difficult thing to do on a car.
There are many things that can cause your heater to not work.

Firstly, most heater issues are caused by low coolant or trapped air in the system so fill it to the rim and burp it. If its low, its going somewhere, so find it.

Next, its often the heater valve, the mixers, wiring or vac lines. (I doubt your car has vacuum controlled conditioning system though)

But, if you have narrowed it down to the core its self, first thing to do is to try to blow it out by bringing your engine to redline a few times on the highway. (First thing to do for most issues on a car, "A redline a day keeps the mechanic away") If that doesn't change anything, then its time for a flush. Set the car heat to high, unhook the core inlet and outlet hoses on the engine, then flush and backflush it a few times with a garden hose. If you have low flow, you can pour CLR in the hoses and let it sit for a few hours then flush it again.

If it hasn't had one recently, now is definitely a good time for a full coolant flush too.

Helpful tools I would recommend for the job:

Airlift ~$80 (Very helpful for burping a system)

Coolant System Pressure Tester ~$150 (Helpful for finding leaks and testing the cap)

Refractometer ~$50 (A very helpful tool, especially if you live in a cold climate. It measures the freezing point of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and measures battery acid state)

As far as recycling the coolant, in some counties you can pour it down the drain when properly diluted, but most of the time you have to bring it in to a recycling center.

Good luck! If you have any further questions, ill be around.

Any idea what the difference between that and this other TYC radiator is? They've got different part numbers and about $20 difference, but comments seem to indicate they both fit the same cars (they're almost all for NB, but one guy says it fit in a 1996 M - are the radiators interchangeable or not?).

When they get brown and get kind of a spider webby look to them, they plastic is decaying and becoming brittle. It will crack any time, probably while you're out on a long drive and get the car really warmed up.

New OEM Koyo (Koyo made the factory radiator and are also a good aftermarket manufacturer) are only about $100 currently $75 from Amazon. Super simple DIY repair.

http://www.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427331153&sr=8-1&keywords=koyo+miata+radiator

It says TYC but many many Miata owners have ordered that one and it comes in a Koyo box, has Koyo marking on the part, and is exactly like the OEM radiator in every way... except not brown...

They make oil block heaters that are big stickers that attach to the oil pan with a plug that you can run out the front of the vehicle so you can plug it in. A friend of mine did that with his and had no issues. He may have attached an additional one to his transmission pan as well. I would suggest looking on Amazon, but it may be better to look locally with Amazon shipping being what it is to Alaska. Here is an example for what I was talking about, it looks like they have some that screw into the block somewhere so that may be an option as well.

Based on how big of a space you need you probably will need a pretty heavy duty fan.

I chose the Endless Breeze that has been discussed endlessly (haha!) for oversized swamp coolers (2.6 amps for 920cfm):
https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-01100WH-Endless-Breeze-Stand/dp/B0000AY2Z6

Also, this one is a new one that I don't know how effective it is but moves a good amount of more air (2.8 amps for 1700):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JI0KOWG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Had the same problem this spring. Did some digging and there are tons of other Fit owners with the same problem that almost universally cited the blower motor and/or blower motor resistor. Dealership quoted me $450 for the repair ($250 parts, $200 labor). Ended up replacing both myself for about $65. The whole process took about 15 minutes.

It is not a remotely complicated repair, but both parts are located in an awkward place if you aren't a tiny person. They're both accessed by removing the tiny panel under the glove box or the box itself. Only ONE tool is required, which is a Philips head screwdriver, but I'd recommend using one with a very short handle to get at the resistor's screws (mine was about 2.5-3" long).

Blower Motor on Amazon

Resistor on Amazon

Was very glad to get my AC back in time for summer without dumping an unnecessary $390!

I just replaced mine this fall with this one of amazon and it's worked great so far. Fit right in no hassles at all. Engine temp stays a solid 5-10 degrees cooler now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C7S062/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks good. I ordered the same, went for the Phidget and a controller.

Only thing I wish I had done was loctite all the screws the FIRST time I did them instead of adding loctite piecemeal now.

Make sure you get the Dorman brand ones or you will be replacing them again. This is a stronger part that fixed the issues with the OE ones. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

You're, correct that this isn't related to the A/C. It's just the cabin air system and it's an easy repair. It's mounted under the dash (passenger side). The only difficult part is that its slightly awkward to reach. If you push the seat as far back as it goes and lay on your back (half your body out of the car), it makes it easier to do. Should take about 10-15 mins to do. 5 mins if you've done it before.

/u/civicjohn is also correct. Here is the part you need:
amazon link. The highest speed is a direct passthrough with no resistance. The resistor reduces the power for speeds 1-3 (more resistance/less power for lower speeds). When the built-in fuse in the resistor trips, the fan will only run on the high setting.

If this doesn't work, or the resistor fails again or the air seems to blow weakly, then its the blower motor: amazon link. If the air is weak, then the bearings in the blower motor are bad. This could explain why the resistor blew. Unfortunately the bearings in the blower motor are not serviceable so the blower motor would need to be replaced. The good news is replacing this is just as easy as replacing resistor. Same area, 3 screws.

The resistor is about $20-$25 and the fan motor (aftermarket) is about $55 from Amazon. A Genuine Honda fan motor is really expensive. Something like $450 or in that neighborhood if I'm remembering correctly. If you insist on Genuine Honda factory parts, it's worth checking a junkyard if you have one nearby. BTW, a really short screwdriver is really handy.

Probably more info than you need but if you're like me, I like to know how things work and why they fail. It may also make the repair less daunting for those who may be a little timid about tinkering with their car. Hope this helps.

.

^the ^blower ^motors ^are ^known ^to ^be ^somewhat ^troublesome.

Yea, this didn't smell at all, just keeping stuff from growing. Splash of bleach, good to go.

Going to try this Electric Radiator fan. 12VDC, 2.8 amps, 1700 CFM @ 2800 RPM

Check out Kat's. They sell several different types of oil and block heaters, including a magnetic one that you just pop onto your oil pan. I've read about people using them on air-cooled cars with good results. Kudos to you for driving a Ghia through the winter!

Edit: They also have glue-on pads like this, which are basically the same type of heaters we use on the aircraft engines I build.

Stock replacement recommended by others on this sub:

https://www.amazon.com/TYC-2268-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPQPC/

Almost all the well known Miata performance places offer upgrades. The very short answer is if you're car isn't overheating then the one above is fine.

I bought suction cups for my license plate so it's suctioned to my front windshield. I got rear ended not too long ago and it didn't move at all. Just my $0.02

Edit: These. They cost $2 and they work really good.

https://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=sr_1_1/138-0897253-5765706?ie=UTF8&qid=1495958756&sr=8-1&keywords=suction+cup+for+license+plate

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYPQPC?cache=4c29131d98b0cef7c9aae9d1357a4a81&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1412786867&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 This one is a koyo. Make sure you get it from Amazon though.

Hmm. Amazon is telling me those won't fit my car. Which model did you get?

This: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-2268-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPQPC/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469385332&sr=1-2&keywords=tyc+radiator+miata

or this?: https://www.amazon.com/TYC-1140-Aluminum-Replacement-Radiator/dp/B000IYPNC8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469385332&sr=1-1&keywords=tyc+radiator+miata

Amazon says these are built for the automatic gearbox models.

My old-battery car takes some finger-crossing to start at -10, and is practically un-startable at -20... unless I have had my oil pan heater on for about 2 to 4 hours. Otherwise, the oil's just too thick to let the engine turn over effectively.

Or window cooling fans? A better version of this would push air out through the vents.

Lol supercharged 4.0 with stock Cherokee radiator

I have 1600W in an 8x4 tent cooled with a single 440 CFM inline fan - so yes, it should be quite sufficient for a single 600W. You may want to also get the suggested router speed controller, since 440 CFM may be overkill on full power.

http://www.amazon.com/SE-Electronic-Stepless-Speed-Controller/dp/B000HQAVNI/

They sell the same controller at Harbor Freight for $20.

either bar end weights or perhaps a throttlemeister type cruise control. can you use the bolt that came out to put the mirror on? if not, try using a socket the same size as the handlebar and threading the bolt through that to use it like a puller

Car Heater,CHELIYA Portable 12V 200W 2 in 1 Auto Car Heater Cooling Fan Defroster Defrost Windscreen Window Demister https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J26MSRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_54sMDb94258DW

I got one of these to put in my sunroof. I will take it out while driving.
Heng's 90043-CR Replacement Vortex I Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002N1J5IM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_SiPvzb19T5VKR

No, I just used the regular housing gasket.

Oh yeah, I had a tough time bleeding my car for some reason. I ended up using this tool to bleed it. If you have access to an air compressor, this or this cheaper one would work better. With the funnel, there's no BMW adapter, so I had to make one out of an old cap by drilling a hole with step bit.

Agreed. Audis look stupid with front plates -- haven't used one for 10 years. But you can't park on the street in DC without a meter maid waddling by and seeing an easy ticket. On the rare occasions I have to, this sticks my plate in the window.

More info

Installation: inline

Cooler https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-676-Rapid-Cool-Transmission/dp/B000C39CL8?ref_=ast_bbp_dp (but i'd go with 679 if i'd do it again, bigger)

extra hose https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-106-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000HE6H3S/

Custom brackets, made them myself.

I just got my temp readings. 192f tranny, outside 60f, a 30 min light roadtrip with some traffic. Not bad but slightly dissapointing.

I don’t own this beautiful car yet, but from what I gathered they are using this they suctioned it to the windshield, don’t think it would scratch anything.

Is this the part you had replaced? Because that's a higher quality one, not just a generic one, and it's still only <$50. Or did you get a different part replaced?

Blend door actuator. Get it replaced under warranty and do it again later or buy the Dorman unit. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-400-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B01ID3WOM2

Voltage controller

I use this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CV5PLFM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

and this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

in the corner of my windshield. Might be an alternative for you.

I'm in California by the way.

I put suction cups on a plate holder. I pull this out only when using metered parking (which is fortunately only a few times a month).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00032KBEA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CV5PLFM

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IYPNC8?pc_redir=1407139270&robot_redir=1#

I know it's not all aluminum, but what do you think?

https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1193-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7S062

Specifically this one - B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIIDZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WUCkybESWYETA

Got any links? This was the cheapest I could find.

Get a hide away plate frame that attaches to your under belly

http://www.pfyc.com/GN1046.html

or these little suction cups (this is what I use) to attach the plate to the inside of you windshield.

http://www.amazon.com/Cruiser-Accessories-78410-Suction-Clear/dp/B00032KBEA

as it turns out, the intake and exhaust housing funnel lots and lots of air into and around the motor. would this compensate for heat buildup?


i found this on amazon but i'm not sure if it's what you were talking about. is it considered a variable frequency drive?

Its not too bad at all, don't forget to move over the vibration isolators to the new radiator. My Cheap radiator recommendation I used it and so does tons of others no issues no overheating at all.

http://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-CU1193-Complete-Radiator/dp/B000C7S062?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

They make [suction cups for the front window] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00032KBEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UkqGAbB4P6RE4), if that's your worry.

I've ragged out that one. Now I use--- https://www.amazon.com/Sensible-Products-Ultimate-Blower-Puller/dp/B001CGFQDW

I've been sent back on too many other tech call backs because they shook the blower wheel off the shaft and ruined its balance.

I did the same a long time ago, got some hate on the cherokeeforum from some crusty ole bastards for making it potentially "too cold". Pshhhhhh.

Afaic, it's a must do mod. It takes away heat from the main radiator, and it eliminates the terrible barb fittings that always leak (I just hose clamped the things). I got mine for $65 on amazon a long time ago - not really sure why the price jumped so much since, but I'm sure there's similar ones for cheaper.