(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best car polishes & waxes
We found 889 Reddit comments discussing the best car polishes & waxes. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 238 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. Mothers 05100 Mag & Aluminum Polish, 5 oz.
- Apply with a clean cloth and a little elbow grease for a great shine
- Gentle enough to use on a regular basis
- Regular use provides a long lasting benefit to your vehicle
- Easy to apply
Features:
Specs:
Color | std color |
Height | 3 inches |
Length | 3 inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 5 Ounce (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 0.220462262 Pounds |
Width | 3 inches |
22. Turtle Wax T-520A Bug and Tar Remover, Trigger - 16 oz.
- Fit type: Universal
- Package Dimensions: 26.416 H x 4.318 L x 10.16 W (centimetres)
- Country of Origin : United States
- Package Weight: 0.522 kilograms
Features:
Specs:
Color | Clear |
Height | 10.25 Inches |
Length | 1.88 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 16 Ounces |
Weight | 1.15081300764 pounds |
Width | 4.25 Inches |
23. Chemical Guys TVD_109_16 - Silk Shine Spray-able Dry-To-The-Touch Dressing For Tires, Trim, Vinyl, Plastic and More (16 Ounce)
- DURABLE HIGH-SHINE FINISH: Silk Shine Protectant is sprayable and dry-to-the-touch non-greasy dressing works on interior and exterior vinyl, rubber, plastics, tires and dashboard surfaces to restore original OEM look that will not attract dirt or dust.
- PROTECT AGAINST FADING - Ultra-refined Weather-Tek formula penetrates deep to nourish and protect like-new appearance that lasts for weeks, not days. Sun blockers shield from harmful rays that fade, crack and break vinyl, rubber, and plastic parts
- SILK SHINE FOR A BRAND NEW LOOK - Modern cars have matte and satin finishes on dashboards, door panels, bumper plastics, not wet and bright finishes. Silk Shine restores the original OEM look to your trim, finishes dry to the touch, and will not leave any parts feeling greasy or sticky
- DRY-TO-THE-TOUCH FORMULA: Premium sprayable Silk Shine finishes dry-to-the-touch and will not attract dirt or dust. Easy to use premium spray keeps exterior rubber and plastic looking great in all weather conditions.
- THE #1 BRAND IN CAR CARE - Beginners and professionals alike choose Chemical Guys, not only for the finest car care products, but the world class customer support and vast detailing knowledge; Chemical Guys is more than a brand - it's a lifestyle with a worldwide following
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.3622 Inches |
Length | 8.2677 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 16 oz |
Weight | 1.21033781838 Pounds |
Width | 2.3622 Inches |
24. Optimum (20239) Opti-Seal with Foam Applicator Pad - 8 oz.
- State-of-the-art, stand-alone spray sealant that provides real, durable protection for paint, plastic trim, and wheels
- Opti-Seal is crystal clear in the bottle and on the paint. Applied very thinly, it will not streak or cloud; Simply spray, wipe, and walk away.
- Opti-Seal contains no fillers or cleaners - this is a true paint sealant
- Opti-Seal can also be used as a base coat under Optimum Car Wax or any other car wax
- Opti-Seal leaves absolutely no residue to buff off. Paint protection couldn't be any easier!
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | November 2017 |
Size | 8 oz. |
Weight | 0.4850169764 Pounds |
25. Meguiar's G12718 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0, 18 fl oz
IDEAL PROTECTANT: Proven synthetic wax with deep gloss provides maximum protection for modern paint and clear coatsEASY TO USE: Wax glides on and wipes off effortlessly, leaving the finish slick and without a powdery residueCOLOR AND SHINE: Provides unbelievably deep, vibrant color and a dramaticall...
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 2.18 Inches |
Length | 9.09 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | January 2004 |
Size | 18 oz. |
Weight | 1.3 Pounds |
Width | 4.28 Inches |
26. Maxima 78920 SC1 High Gloss Coating 17.2 FL. OZ. 508 mL - NET WT. 12 OZ. (340g), Single
High gloss SC1 Clear Coat is specifically formulated for the Powersports industrySC1 coats plastic, fiberglass and painted surfacesMakes the clean up process easier - excellent for use on M/C and ATV fenders to prevent mud and dirt from adhering to plasticSC1 is water resistant and leaves a dry, lon...
Specs:
Height | 2.5 Inches |
Length | 9.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 2014 |
Size | 12 Ounce (Pack of 1) |
Weight | 1 pounds |
Width | 2.5 Inches |
27. Meguiar's D15501 Last Touch Spray Detailer, 1 Gallon
DETAILER SPRAY: Simply spray on and wipe off for incredible depth, shine and glossUSE WITH CONFIDENCE: Unique blend safely and gently removes dust, smudges, fingerprints and other contaminantsSHOWROOM SHINE: Creates a showroom shine while enhancing protectionCLAY LUBRICANT: Excellent for use as a cl...
Specs:
Color | Original Version |
Height | 11.875 Inches |
Length | 4.5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | March 2013 |
Size | Gallon |
Weight | 3.30693393 Pounds |
Width | 7.25 Inches |
28. Griot's Garage 11146 Speed Shine (Quick Detailer) 35oz
- With Speed Shine you can detail your car in 5 minutes
- Specially formulated lubricants lift dirt off the surface so you can safely wipe it away
- Leaves finish glossy and smooth
- Great for any painted surface
- Perfect for a quick wipe down before or after you hit the road
Features:
Specs:
Release date | March 2014 |
Size | 35 Ounces |
29. Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner Liquid for Metal, Plastic, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Jewelry, Sterling Silver: Great for Headlight Restoration + Rust Remover, 3.4 oz
MULTI-PURPOSE CLEANER: Has the industrial strength cleaning power to protect and polish metal, plastic, fiberglass, aluminum and chrome. Even removes rust, graffiti and restores headlights. Gentle enough to use in kitchen, bathroom, and even on jewelry.EASILY REMOVES: Tarnish, Rust, Water Stains, Ch...
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 5 Inches |
Length | 5 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 3.4oz |
Weight | 0.24375 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
30. HONDA 08732-SCP00 Spray Cleaner and Polish, 12 oz., 1 Can
- Genuine pro HONDA chemicals aerosol spray cleaner and Polish 08732-SCP00
- Quickly cleans, polishes and protects
- Use on plastic, chrome, paint and aluminum
- Cleans road grime, grease and bugs without water
Features:
Specs:
Height | 8 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Size | 12 Ounces |
Weight | 0.8 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
31. MEGUIAR'S G190526 Hybrid Ceramic Wax - 26 oz.
- EASY TO USE: just spray on, rinse off And dry! It's that easy!
- LESS EFFORT AND MESS: no rubbing, curing, buffing or mess
- HYBRID CERAMIC WAX PROTECTION: Advanced Sio2 Hybrid technology delivers ceramic wax protection
- MORE THAN A WAX: protection and durability beyond conventional wax
- WATER BEADING PROTECTION: ceramic wax protection with extreme water beading action
- Fit Type: Universal Fit
Features:
Specs:
Color | Blue |
Height | 11.63 Inches |
Length | 2.38 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | October 2018 |
Size | 26 oz |
Weight | 1.69315017216 Pounds |
Width | 4.69 Inches |
32. Turtle Wax T-223 Super Hard Shell Paste Wax - 9.5 oz (Pack of 1)
- Legendary Super Hard Shell protection and shine
- The leading car wax in the world
- Easy on, easy off formula lasts up to 12 months
- Fights harmful UV rays
Features:
Specs:
Height | 3 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | February 2005 |
Size | 9.5 Ounce |
Weight | 0.5952481074 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
33. Mothers 05724 California Gold Spray Wax, 24 oz.
- Cleans and protects for that "just waxed" look
- Safe to use on clear coat
- Use on wet or dry surface to boost existing wax or as a standalone
- Trigger spray bottle for easy use
- Regular use provides a long lasting benefit to your vehicle
Features:
Specs:
Color | RED,BLACK |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 11 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | California Gold Spray Wax, 24 oz. |
Weight | 1.7857443222 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
34. NOVUS 2 Plastic Fine Scratch Remover - 8 Oz.
- Great for auto headlamps, CD/DVD, boats, motorcycles, golf cart windshields and much more
- Perfect for taking out scratches and cloudy haze from acrylic/polycarbonate protective shields. If your shields and barriers are worn down or get scratched up from frequent use of harsh disinfectant chemicals, use NOVUS plastic polish #2 to restore them back to new.
- Removes scratches instead of filling it in
- Has helped millions win the war against fading, scratching and dulling of plastics
- Industry leader since 1973
Features:
Specs:
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 3.3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 8 Ounce |
Weight | 0.5952481074 Pounds |
Width | 1.5 Inches |
35. Flitz BP 03511 Metal, Plastic and Fiberglass Polish with Paint Restorer, 1.76-Ounce, Small, White
- A concentrated cream that is unsurpassed in its ability to Clean, Polish, Deoxidize and Protect
- Not for: Electroplated Finishes
- Removes: Tarnish, Rust, Water Stains, Chalking, Lime Deposits, Heat Discoloration, Lead and Powder Residue and much more
- Buff with Flitz Buff Ball, Microfiber Cloth or paper towel
- Protects up to 6 months in freshwater and 3 months in saltwater
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 9 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | Small |
Weight | 0.000625 Pounds |
Width | 5 Inches |
36. Turtle Wax T-241A Polishing Compound & Scratch Remover - 10.5 oz.
- Heavy duty paste that cleans dull, oxidized finishes
- Quickly and easily penetrates through the oxidized surface to remove scratches, blemishes and stubborn stains
- Restores faded finishes
- Recommended for rubbing down between coats of newly sprayed lacquer and acrylic car finishes
- Easy to use formula
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | September 2004 |
Size | 1 Pack |
Weight | 0.7495716908 Pounds |
Width | 4 Inches |
37. Chemical Guys WAC_707RU_16 EcoSmart-RU Ready to Use Waterless Car Wash and Wax (16 oz)
- Wash, wax and protectant in one
- Not just a wash - a waterless detailing system
- Can be used on paint, wheels, windows and more
- Safe for all car colors
- Designed to produce a scratch-free, swirl-free shine
Features:
Specs:
Height | 2.3622 Inches |
Length | 8.2677 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | October 2013 |
Size | 16 fl. Oz |
Weight | 1.21033781838 Pounds |
Width | 2.3622 Inches |
38. 3M Adhesive Remover, Helps Remove Tar, Attachment Tape & Bumper Sticker Adhesive, 12 oz., 1 aerosol
Adhesive Tar and Wax Remover quickly removes wax, grease, oil and adhesive residueIt will not harm most cured automotive paints and is also suitable for vinyl and glass surfaces
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 9 Inches |
Length | 10 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Release date | October 2011 |
Size | Adhesive Remover |
Weight | 0.8 Pounds |
Width | 9 Inches |
39. Chemical Guys WAC_114 P40 Detailer Quick Detailer and UV Protectant (1 Gal)
This product has got ultra refined white carnauba waxUse on glass, plastic, metal, and any other nonporous material without streaking or stainingDelivering superior results in the sun or shadeAdds shine while protecting the surfaceWill not strip or remove wax or sealants
Specs:
Height | 7.28345 Inches |
Length | 11.69289 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 128 oz |
Weight | 8.6985110170422 Pounds |
Width | 11.49604 Inches |
40. Meguiar's G17748 Ultimate Wash & Wax, 48 oz
- CLEAR COAT SAFE: Carnauba wax and synthetic polymer technology gently cleans the paint while leaving behind additional wax protection
- DEEP SHINE: Leaves a deep, glossy, just-waxed shine and gently cleans in one easy step
- AMAZING SUDS: Incredible sudsing action safely lifts dirt and grime to minimize swirling
- PAINT MAINTENANCE: The perfect way to clean and shine your car’s paint, as well as boost its protection and glossiness, in between regular waxings
- VERSATILE: Ultimate Wash & Wax is compatible with all Meguiar's washes and waxes. And it’s pH neutral so it won't strip wax while it cleans
Features:
Specs:
Color | Factory |
Height | 10.37 Inches |
Length | 6.12 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 48 oz |
Weight | 0.7660402217714 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on car polishes & waxes
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where car polishes & waxes are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.
Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine
I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!
Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.
An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA
And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.
To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.
For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.
Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.
Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.
The way I do it:
Equipment:
Washing:
Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
Sealant/wax:
After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
>Ok that doesn't sound too bad or expensive, actually sounds kind of fun, maybe I'll make it a hobby, supplement my income or use some to trade my RAD might get in the way of that though.
Danger! This way be dragons. :)
>Where can you get those polishes, I have never seen those particular ones?
I buy them locally at an ACE Hardware, but if you can't find them locally you can get them on Amazon: Flitz and Maas
>Also how did I do value wise, are any of those valuable or anything? Did I spend too much?
Let's see...
I think you took a bit of a bath on the third lot with the Red Tip. The Techmatic doesn't get any love because it's not all that pleasant to shave with and even if it were it's not exactly easy to find replacement cartridges for it. The Valet Auto-Strop is also not going to bring a whole lot. They're not bad shavers, and that gold one at least can take regular SE blades if you pop the spine off of them, but they're basically filler razors that people use to pad out lots. If you get into collecting at all seriously you should basically value them at $0 when you're figuring what you're willing to pay for a lot because you'll end up with a shoebox of them without even trying.
Take that other lot, for example. The way I'd look at that grouping is to immediately discount the Christie and the clippers as just somebody else's junk. That particular Auto-Strop requires special SE blades with a knockout inside the blade, so it's even less desirable than usual. So you're left with the Flare Tip Super Speed, the Ever-Ready 1924-patent "Shovelhead," and the brush. The razors are both good shavers, although the Super Speed is missing at least one end cap -- not an issue from a functional standpoint, but it hurts its value. The brush looks like a decent little travel brush. The old knot is probably shot (though maybe not) but it might be worth reknotting it if the handle were nice enough.
Still, you're only into the lot for $25 shipped, which is fine unless you're looking to flip any of it. Figure about $10 each for the Super Speed (dinged for condition) and the 1924, a couple bucks for the brush, and a couple bucks for postage and you're at fair money.
I'd say the other two Super Speeds are about the same -- decent prices for your own use, not great if you're looking to resell them.
Amanda! Your bags look beautiful!!!!
I never worry about flaws as most reps actually mimic the same flaws as their authentic counterparts...and to be honest...the only 1:1 is the authentic, which I just do not think is worth the asking price. At $145 the flaws are so insignificant as not to matter and most can be fixed with a bottle of shiny (dull canvas) or a trip to the cobbler (cinch tab thingy) or a marker (red glue) and a little darkening boost (patina). To be quite frank, I love reps because they present a challenge and I am thoroughly enjoying finding solutions to these minor dilemmas...and employing them (and for research purposes of course). To me it's fun...go figure.
I so want a DA just to see and I think I may take the plunge, though I'll stick to the beige interior.
I am so tickled to hear someone say that they think their reps are "fantastic" and are not agonizing over every single detail. I am certain that you will enjoy your lovelies, and because you will, I doubt if anyone will ever guess they're reps. Love, love, love your review and your attitude, thank you so much for sharing love!
>What are some ways of preventing theft of the scooter? Does it involve some specialty lock or perhaps being specific about where I park?
I have a [Gorilla Alarm] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3QM4SS/ref=twister_B00WGCGQWQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) on my scoot but sometimes it goes off unexpectedly and it drains the battery quick if you don't ride your scooter often.
I use to use a U-Lock to attach to my wheel but I've almost rode off a couple of times with it still attached so I hardly use it.
You can get one of [disc brake locks] (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469235803&sr=8-1&keywords=disc+brake+lock) that attaches to your front brake disc and comes with a reminder strap that you attach to the handlebars so you don't ride off with it still attached.
But I highly suggest getting full coverage insurance if you don't have it already in case the scooter does get stolen. Scooters are so light that 2 people could lift it onto the back of a truck and take off. The money you get back from full coverage insurance is surprisingly fair, at least with State Farm.
>I live in Houston. The sun is pretty intense and I love the paint job on my scooter. Is there a way to protect the paint with products or is a simple scooter cover the solution?
This is a great question because if you don't protect the body, it will start fading on you.
You can either use a [paste wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05500-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TVW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+wax) or [liquid wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05750-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TX0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-2&keywords=mother%27s+wax) to give you the best protection. Remember to follow the instructions that come with the wax.
You can use a [spray wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05724-California-Gold-Spray/dp/B001MXX5D8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236261&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+spray+wax) which is the easiest to apply and remove but it doesn't offer the same kind of protection that a paste or liquid wax gives.
Btw, I only used Mother's as an example but most of the brands that you find at your local auto parts store should be fine. Also, make sure to always use a Microfiber towel when doing anything on the scooter's body. Microfiber towels scratch the body the least vs. any other kind of towel.
First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f
I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.
After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?
Here's what I'd like to buy:
I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
Thanks!
You're better off buying new ones as you get fresh adhesive strips on the back, and you don't have to worry about fucking them up as you take them off. $20 each on amazon.
Here's what I did. Under $50, front and back emblems, including spray paint purchase.
These two emblems on amazon, front and back OEM:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFDH8KQ
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FSCN9US
Scuff them up with sandpaper so the paint adheres better to the smooth surface of the emblems, then. Spray paint with flat black. 4 or 5 coats with some time in between to let each one dry. I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XG68SMM
Then put aside and let them dry.
Onto removing your current emblems:
Get some fishing line and 3M adhesive remover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W
Spray the adhesive remover on the emblem on your car, then using the fishing line, work at the adhesive using a sawing motion to cut through the layer attached to your car. Once the adhesive is all cut, and you can move the fishing line around like you're flossing, you can pull it out and the emblem will pop out. In addition to the adhesive there are 2 little plastic spikes that stick into holes on your car body. That's the popping out part. You'll have to tufg at it to remove it. Some people break them, hence buying new emblems. Then spray some more adhesive remover and remove the crud left behind with a microfiber towel. If you have a lot of crud, you can use a plastic scraper like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HLWB0BM - or even a credit card... spray with the 3M product, scrape the crud, wipe the crud off the car, repeat. Was pretty quick and painless. Once you're all done, wipe off the adhesive remover with a microfiber towel, make sure you're all nice and clean, then peel off the plastic strips on your new emblems, put it in place, and viola. 10 minutes tops, not including the spray painting.
It should be at least 55-60F temperature to apply emblems properly. They won't stick in colder weather.
Good luck. Simple and easy upgrade. 15 bhp to the wheels.
DON'T USE A PRESSURE WASHER!!!!
But before you clean your bike, go ahead and clean and lube your chain FIRST. Then, give the bike a quick spin for a few miles. That way any excess chain lube doesn't splatter all over your fresh detail job.
Wait for your bike to cool down (20-30 minutes on a 70 degree day)
Then just get a bucket of soapy water, and a sponge or clean soft rag and wipe your bike down. You can pretty much use that for every surface, but start with the painted bits, then move to things like the engine and wheels. After that I usually just wipe it down with another clean rag and some fresh clean water. Then I dry the bike with a chamois. After that I use a product called SC1 to give it that show room sparkle. Follow the directions on the can. It's pretty much just spray the crap all over and let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe it off with a soft clean dry rag.
It's a lot more involved than going to the drive through car wash, but your baby is worth it!
And to not leave anything blank, here is what I'm happy with that I use:
For polishing cartridge pins - [Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish](http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-5100-Aluminum-Polish-Paste/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1319605826&sr=8-4"She's not my mother, but I love her")
To speed up the process/ to tackle very damaged pins - my trusty [variable speed Dremel tool](http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-300-1-24-Variable-Speed-Rotary/dp/B002BAHFBE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319605918&sr=8-2"Don't leave home without it, unless you enjoy having friends, then don't bring that anywhere") (I use a large polishing disc with the polish, and make a huge mess, if you are going to try this - WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. You only get two eyes, it'd be a shame to ruin any of them.)
Sticker removal - [Un-Du](http://www.amazon.com/Du-Products-Adhesive-Remover-4-Ounce/dp/B002E3KMSQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1319606203&sr=8-1"The only thing better than this would be a product that let you punch who ever decided to put a goddamned monster sticker over the goddamned label of a copy of Duck Tales 2. If I find you, I swear I'll punch you. It'll be easy, your name is all over your carts in marker. Do you know how hard that is to take off? Do you BILLY?!?") This is made of unicorn tears, or something. You can (although I don't recommend) pour this on over your main cartridge label to pull up a sticker on the top, when it dries, the label should not show any liquid was on it, and will become sticky again (be careful, that sticker will also have it's adhesive properties return). Very good product, and if you couple it with an old gift card, you can peel up pretty much anything. I can't praise this enough.
General staples - Rubbing Alcohol (highest concentration you can find), a million or so Q-Tips, Windex, and Compressed air (try to find someone without the additive that prevents kids from using it as a drug, unless you have excellent ventilation, you'll get that taste in your mouth, and it is awful.)
Try to go easy on the cleaning chemicals when possible. Simple green should work fine on most of the exterior. Magic erasers can be good for stubborn or stained control panels, side art or general trouble spots, but be warned they do tend to take some of the paint off especially on old art. Novus 2 is a fantastic polisher for just about anything plastic, can work on rusted metal too if you want to tumble some parts. Goo gone (NOT goof off!) is great for removing old adhesives if you need to replace a CP or side art and take off some old glue underneath. Any glass cleaner is fine for the monitor (CRT!) screens, use simple green or a light cleaner on the plexiglass bezels or around art on the underside of a glass marquee. If you have some stained or smelly particle board inside your cabinet, white vinegar and a scrubbing brush can take out some of the smell and discoloration.
Those are the main tools I use, I'm sure each collector has their own set of favorites.
You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap
[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)
[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)
[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)
[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)
I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.
[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)
Good luck!
Others have offered good info, but here's my contribution. Get some of this stuff:
http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS
You won't believe how it will make the wraps and chrome look. I restore drums, and I'm currently on my 5th or 6th bottle of the stuff.
Then take your pictures of the kit in natural light. 14" floor toms are a desirable size, as is red sparkle wrap.
Good luck!
First of all, get yourself a nice set of microfiber towels. Anything from The Rag Company is solid, or a pack of the ones from Costco are good too.
The best way if you have time and access to a hose is the 2 bucket wash method. The way most people scratch their car while hand washing is the drying process. That's the part that people usually rush when really that's when most of the damage is done. Either dry it with a leaf blower or a microfiber towel and make sure the towel is clean after each wipe. If it's visibly dirty at all, flip it over or get another towel.
If you don't have access to a hose, or if its winter or whatever, use Optimum No Rinse. ONR is pretty much universally praised in the detailing world. This post should get you started.
After each wash, a quick way to wax/seal the car is to use Opti seal. Just spritz once or twice on a panel while you're drying and buff it off. It's that easy. The one bottle should easily last you a year or two.
> What kind of soap should I use?
Any regular cheapo car wash soap. DON'T use the wash + wax products though they're pretty much shit.
> Is Armour All a good choice for the dash?
No, it's a crappy product. In my experience using a bit of warm water and a dedicated vinyl cleaner have worked well.
> What should I use on the wheels?
A separate car wash mitt and separate soapy bucket from your body washing bucket.
> Should I just use old towels to dry, or is there something better?
No, go to autozone and stock up on towels, and get a couple paper bags to separate the towels by function. Only use your drying towel for drying, your waxing towel for waxing, glass towel, and interior towels. Do not mix these up, you wouldn't want to wipe wax or vinyl cleaner all over your windshield.
> Is it safe to use my power washer (electric) on my car, or is it too strong?
Mostly likely too strong. I know guys who peeled paint on their bumper doing it.
> Are there any techniques for making the wash faster/easier/better?
Just keep up with regular cleaning maintenance and it will be easier. Do the full cycle of wash, clay, and wax your car about twice a year, and it will be easier on you every time.
Here's all the stuff I use :)
For things like wiping down dust / pollen, it's best never to touch your car when you could do a full wash. I had a black camry and I would wipe it down daily from all the pollen, and it became scratched up within a month... so I had to buy more polishing gear (and now it's 10 years later and I run a detailing company). So if your car gets dusty, wait until you can do a proper wash. Don't cut corners as it will result in swirls.
Really the kit you keep in your car should be more for fixing bird poop emergencies. You'll see why after you have to use your nice microfiber to clean up fresh bird shit. Bottle of water and microfibers in a tupperware. keep a bottle of spray wax for following up
I go through a lot of spray wax on my blue car. I save all my used spray bottles (spray wax, glass cleaner, etc) and started refilling it from a gallon-size detailing supplies, saves me money as I like to detail my car often and go through a lot of product: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497589491&sr=8-1&keywords=express%2Bspray%2Bwax&th=1
Meguiar's last-touch is a good choice too: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497589657&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+last+touch
It's pretty simple, park the car outside on a warm day 75F or warmer then using a blow dryer on high heat up the badge and the fender near the badge until it's hot to the touch. Using dental floss or a Luxe de-badge kit the badge slowly work it off.
​
You can easily clear the area of leftover adhesive with 3M adhesive remover, then Clean the whole area with 70% or higher rubbing alcohol. Finally use a clay bar included on the Luxe de-badge kit or can be purchased from most auto stores, this will remove any contaminants that will cause imperfections in the decal.
​
When applying the decal you will need to follow the instructions based on the brand you purchase. Some decals have air release which will be a DRY apply, while others require an application fluid (NOT SPRY WAX!!!!) this fluid is usually proper mixture water, alcohol and a mild detergent.
​
Hope that helps
Meguiars: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G190526-Hybrid-Ceramic-Wax/dp/B06WVQ6MVR
Mothers: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-01024-Ceramic-Spray-Coating/dp/B07K46RD7Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mothers+cmx+ceramic&qid=1555014993&s=gateway&sr=8-1
​
McKees: https://www.amazon.com/McKees-37-MK37-260-Coating-Enhanced/dp/B074WPDR4W/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=mckees&qid=1555015022&s=gateway&sr=8-5
​
I don't have Meguiars. Just the Mothers and McKees and they're both spectacular in my experience so far. But too short to tell how long they both hold up long term. I was a bit peeved when I went to go use McKees again and the spray nozzle got clogged with hardened product, but on the flip side, I was really impressed that it really does harden quite well, so I'm pretty confident it will last a long time. Plus is pretty safe/easy to use.
Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
Hope this helps!
Meguair’s new Hybrid Ceramic Wax is pretty awesome, cheap, and readily available. I think you’ll dig it.
Meguiar's G190526 Hybrid Ceramic Wax, 26 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVQ6MVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TVdxCbTKAMTDF
I tried it on one vehicle, and Adams new Ceramic Spray Coating on another. Don’t know about longevity yet, but the Meguair’s seems better at first impression. Better gloss and hydrophobicity. Easier to apply also, though Adams Ceramic isn’t difficult by any means.
Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.
Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys
http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5
http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine
http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush
Posting here as I didn't see the rules the first time round..
Hi guys. I'm not a professional detailer, just a guy looking to keep his used car in good shape. I'm also totally new to cleaning and maintaining a car.
My current method to clean the car is to take it to a coin operated self-wash shops. After this I just usually wipe down the car with clean microfiber and drive away. I'm looking to use a product that reduces water stains and streaks and keeps the car a bit shiny. I came across these two on amazon:
Which one of these is more recommended? AFAIK I can also use Opti-seal as a drying agent and on interior surfaces too. Because of this I'm slightly inclined to opti-seal. Do you guys also think this is a better product of the two?
I'm open to other recommendations also :)
> like a spray on wax or sealant.
That's a good idea, but the spray on won't protect that much. If anything. I'd do the Collinite (2 layers) then use the spray wax after every wash, while drying. It mostly acts as a drying lubricant imo. You may want to pick up a gallon of the spray wax that you fancy on Amazon. I use this from Chemical Guys
Do the Collinite at your apartment. Buff. Let it cure overnight. Then do another layer then next morning. It'll be invincible. Next month pick up some microfiber washing detergent.
It's a fun addiction to have.
keep the car waxed with a quality product such that road film rinses off with the wand.
use wand first, and keep some clean microfiber towers and a wash and wax product like this: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_707RU_16-EcoSmart-RU-Waterless/dp/B00FSAV5LU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518820836&sr=1-4&keywords=chemical+guys+wash+wax+waterless
as your microfiber dry mist with the cleaner and you will clean, dry and wax in one step.
NEVER let that brush anywhere near you paint. You never know what kind of grit is on it from the people before you, and even the perfectly clean brush will swirl paint.
you can also get the car ceramic coated CQquartz opticoat etc which will keep dirt from sticking when you hit it with the wand.
or skip the booth entirely with https://www.autogeek.net/optimum-no-rinse-wash-and-wax.html
The community here will tell you to throw that Turtle Wax in the trash and get something else. People seem to like this stuff for an OTC product, although I've never personally used it. Make sure you're doing your best to get everything off the paint\clear coat before you apply a wax. This means a nanoskin wash or clay bar. Personally I'd go with Collinite 845 or another sealant type. General rule of applying a wax is to work in lines, not circles (this helps reduce swirl marks). Let it dry to a haze and buff with a high pile MF towel that you precondition with a little spray wax\quick detailer to add some lubrication. Smile as you run your finger across that smooth finish and crack open a cold one :)
i usually find products at auto stores to be really expensive. If you buy in bulk or concentrated sizes, like meguiars gallon sized products, they're far more cost effective. I use amazon to buy all my supplies, everything from microfibers to waxes are just way cheaper. Getting all the detailing supplies the first time is expensive, but they last a long time, one bottle of wax has lasted me for two years or longer. Some things are definitely worth buying in concentrate the first time around if you can afford it, like detail spray/clay lube: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496487884&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+d155
that will make two whole gallons of quick detailing spray for $24, as opposed to $6 for a small bottle at a store.
I believe boards are usually finished with an increasingly fine series of sandings, a couple coats of varnish, and then carnuba wax. I heard the Mayday boards are topped with a wood veneer that is then waxed. I'm not sure if you would want to go back and varnish the veneer, but you can definitely get some quality wax and go to town. This wax is pretty highly regarded.
Edit:
Not sure why the link formatting isn't working. C'est la vie.And I figured it out.If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:
Everyone does it differently but we all probably use the same product called Nesquik Instant Coffee. Generally brew up a batch at room temperature with distilled water. Boiling it turns allot of the acids into base and well water has allot of minerals in it.
Basic ferric chloride etch to get an even base coat going. I'll generally neutralize with Windex. Then clean the oxides off with a cotton makeup pad with a dab of Green Flitz. Making sure its all even. If not repeat.
Then as simple as dropping it in the coffee and checking every 5-10 minutes since it etches slow. Repeated etching intervals of 5 minutes with a quick Windex neutralization and light makeup surface wiping to continually remove the surface oxides will get you there. (No Flitz if your going for dark until your set on the color since it will drop it a shade)
The finer the grind the darker an etch will take.
But as I said before ultimately it all comes down to the steel to achieve a full black etch. There's just not enough Manganese in 1080 and 1095. Without using something like a blueing agent it'll always be closer to a deep grey. Steels like D2, 5160, 1084, and 80CRV2 all have a higher Manganese content which allows for a deeper darker etch. There are others I just can't remember them off the top of my head.
We got lucky, the PO used to baby this aircraft and would basically live at the hangar and wax it frequently! We try our best to keep her clean. This stuff is magical and what he used to keep the paint cleaned and protected, and It takes bugs off with ease!
I've had great luck with Flitz: https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BP-03511-Fiberglass-1-76-Ounce/dp/B00MUG95UI/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465573928&sr=1-9&keywords=flitz
On pretty much everything plastic I own including the Charge.
Black or silver?
You might be able to polish light scratches. I use this:
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1518023245&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+aluminum+polish&dpID=51bXDNFZtVL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
on my stainless steel Apple Watch, and it works great! Obviously it's not a one-time thing, you'll have to polish the surface every so often, but it makes my watch sparkle like new. I polish it roughly once a week, and it takes just a few minutes.
Just a lightweight silicone oil, probably easiest to use a spray polish. Gives a good wet-look sheen, non-volatile, doesn't rub off too easily. This stuff is good and cheap if you don't mind the new-car smell: https://amzn.to/2Nj13I6 Alternatively, this gives a wet shine to latex or plastics: https://amzn.to/2ICKWV6
I just built a board and found a thread somewhere that I can't find now [edit] Found it that compared wax and various other stuff for making the board slick. They arrived at the conclusion that this spray is more slick than carnuaba wax. After trying it, I think I agree, and it's easier to apply.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MXX5D8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, boric acid is toxic.
"The best alternative to boric powder is potato starch. It was used in the last CarromWorld Cup in 2017 in UK. All western countries use potato starch as boric acid is considered to be toxic if inhaled."
I use 3M adhesive remover for this kind of thing. My wheels have adhesive tape from previous balancing weights. This stuff removed them fairly easily. I needed several applications and had to let it dwell for a few minutes each time. But it removes sticky stuff very well. If you use this, test on a small area first to make sure it's safe.
How did the gap become so large? I'm over in Portland, so I only get around to doing a full detail 2-3 times a year. It's generally a 48 hour process for the exterior if I do it solo and don't rush through it. I can keep the detail healthy between washes + product application. Honestly, just use Meguiar's "Last Touch" spray after every wash and it will make your detail last for months. Most other "detailing sprays" are total gimmicks and won't last, and that includes other Meguiar's detail spray products.
I'm telling you, I last detailed in November and didn't wash my car for almost 4 months. It was filthy, but after washing, drying, and applying, it looked like I had just detailed it. Another 2 months went by before I washed again (this last weekend) and the wax/polish I applied all the way back in November is still alive. I loooove this product. I was going through so many cans I went ahead and bought the industrial size jug. For wheels, use this, but not this. I used that crap for awhile before realizing this product causes specks or drops of clear coat on the side skirt panels to drip off into these white stains. It's permanent, and it took me forever to figure out where that shit was coming from. Luckily I caught it early and switched products.
You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.
>Sony PS-X500
I've used Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish on TT platters but be aware it will bring it to a shiny chrome like finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068GEJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Here's a good example:
​
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/cleaned-my-vpi-scout-ii-platter.752930/
If scratches are deep then sanding is best bet. For finer scratches something like this may work fine.
​
https://www.amazon.co.uk/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?keywords=Novus+7100+Plastic+Polish+Kit+-+8+Ounce&qid=1565733885&s=automotive&sr=1-2-fkmr0
I used this and followed the directions on the bottle of leaving it on for one minute.
I'll look for the remover you linked soon and hope that works, and if not, I'll try a clay bar. Thanks for your help!
Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover has worked very well for me.
Every other Turtle Wax product I've used has been terrible but this one is actually pretty good
Chain brush, chain cleaner, chain lube. Basic tool kit. Stands are nice. For cleaning, I use the Honda spray cleaner/wax and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
I sent a note to Henry asking what they recommend, and they said Flitz Polish. Works great!
Link to Amazon where I bought mine.
https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BP-03511-Fiberglass-1-76-Ounce/dp/B00MUG95UI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1501675657&sr=8-4&keywords=flitz+metal+polish
Yes, this
As said I wouldn't let it drip dry and streak. Also would never use actual rub-on wax.
Paint might look a little more flat with using only windex, but it definitely doesn't leave it shiny or anything. And it does a way better job.
Depending on how poor you are and how perfect of a job you want done, you might want to consider some DIY body work. Depending on the depth of the scratch, you might be able to fix it with just some automotive sandpaper (NOT hardware store sandpaper), some polishing compound, and a microfiber cloth.
If the scratches are deep enough that they've gouged out the paint, you'd need to sand, prime, and paint. I'd suggest talking to the good folks over at Bloomington Autocolor - they can fill a spray can with a custom matched color for your car. They can tell you what you need to do, and there are plenty of good Youtube videos as well.
For the dents, sometimes you can pop them out if they're rounded, otherwise you might have to replace the part. You can try a junkyard, or just order online. Depending on how the mirror broke you might be able to do a temp fix with some 2-stage epoxy, otherwise you'll probably want to order a replacement part for that as well.
Also, just because I'm a tutor, the word is "exorbitant", not "absorbent" ;-)
Pressure wash with This pressure washer
Foam cannon from Amazon [Foam cannon](http://www.MATCC.com/ Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrJmzb8PWHAQH)
Then I used regular 2 bucket car wash with grit guard from Amazon, speed shine (2 towels), spray wax, vacuum, interior cleaner, leather conditioner, plastic conditioner, and spray window cleaner.
All the products I use are griots garage... Really good quality stuff.
[Speed shine](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 11146SP Speed Shine - 35 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KuJmzbF11YMYS)
[Interior cleaning ](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lvJmzbYGA8QRT)
[Spray wax](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10962 Spray-On Wax - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WvJmzb2DC8ZAZ)
[Wash soap](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10866 Brilliant Finish Car Wash - 64 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA2LMVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwJmzbPEEQTMQ)
Just keep going down the griot's line up... High quality all around. Cheers
First off thanks redditors for the input. The reason I wanted the wet look is because I put armor all on my dash one time (which I was told after is bad for it, so I ceased using it) and I liked how it looked alot haha. What does everyone think about The Chemical Guys Silk Shine Sprayable Dressing?
I also liked the meguiars product line and I think I will check out those wipes they have to keep in the trunk.
Since you're looking at refurbing one and using the other, I'll offer the following insight:
You should use some pure carnauba wax on the boards. Most people recommend Mothers. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483199201&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+pure+carnauba+wax
I got my board from Muzzies, and Murray suggested that I use https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6. It's a blend, and he finds it works best on his surface.
I don't know if it's "The Best Way", but after peeling the sticker from my car with the hair dryer trick I used some Turtle Wax Bug & Tar remover to remove the glue residue and it was very effective.
As an aside, I haven't tried it yet for anything else.
Pretty cheap, works well:
Chemical Guys WAC_707RU_16 EcoSmart-RU Ready to Use Waterless Car Wash and Wax (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FSAV5LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dY82BbV1Z4WWM
Noob detailer. Please help to check my rinseless wash process for mistakes and/or advise on existing paint damage.
Started following this sub when I got a nice enough car to care for. It's a Mazda with soul red paint though and seems like every little thing is super visible and the clear coat scuffs when you look at it wrong. I street park in Brooklyn, dust, leaves, pollen, bird bombs and all, every day. Was recommended to adopt ONR rinseless 2 bucket method, researched and tried to follow to the best of my ability.
First, the list of equipment I obtained thus far:
Below is the workflow I had going today, so much new stuff to use and new methods, I did not feel in the least bit confident that I did it right. Asking for folks here to review it and point out any mistakes I have made along the way as well as tips to optimize the process for the future:
I went out to the car with two buckets, each with grit guards, one with 256:1 ONR solution, the other just warm water for rinsing. I started applying ONR solution in straight line motions with BRS one panel at a time starting with the roof>rear window/trunk gate>windshield>hood>front fenders>rear fenders>rear doors>front doors. I do not aim to detail interior or wheels much tbh, but i did dedicate about 6 costco towels to wheel duty by cleaning up the nooks and crannies of the wheels and wheel wells, rinsing them in rinse bucket and never dipping them back into the ONR bucket after first use. Following that, I cleaned and refilled rinse bucket and went back to repeat the panels. Why? Well, the car was very dirty with BRS quickly becoming black with dirt and me switching to costco MF towels to make another two passes over each panel, discarding towels that get visibly dirty on all quarters into laundry pile. I tried folding dirty halves/quarters away and using the Ammo NYC sweep and rotate style to minimize contaminants dragging across paint. Eventually, I felt ready to move onto claying because costco towels and BRS were no longer looking dirty as I passed them across.
Here is where my confidence and excitement of a new auto detailing convert took a big hit. First of all, I had a superficial but long scratch across the right side which I expected to be possible to mask down with claying>using opti seal, since I could not actually feel it with my fingers. That didn't work at all, although I could tell by doing the ziploc bag drag test that the clayed areas were much smoother than the untreated ones. I used Mother's detailer spray bottle to lubricate, half panel at a time, then slide the pancake shaped clay sideways with no inward pressure until i stopped feeling drag resistance. I added lubricant if I felt clay stop on dry areas.
I wanted to change pace after failing with masking the scratch, so I started on the inside of the windshield. I made a 10:1 ONR solution in a spray bottle, sprayed it direct onto a high gsm fluffy mf towel from aliexpress and started wiping away at the inside. I then used the flat looking towel (also from aliexpress) to wipe down streaking. I was pretty happy with the results, but unsure if I did something wrong or missed a step. Still, I moved on.
I then wiped the entire exterior with a clean towel and soaked up the Opti seal applicator, proceeding to apply the stuff one panel at a time and following up with another clean mf towel to wipe off the excess wherever i saw streaking (which was almost everywhere as it was my first time and I wanted to lay a generous protective coating). I got rid of streaking easily, but....
The result was clean, silky smooth paint, but upon closer inspection, it was covered in etchings from leaves, bird bombs and whatnot. The ONR>instant detailer>clay>opti-seal did not remove it. I did not apply pressure onto paint in affected areas during any of the above procedures, as I was afraid of damaging clear coat even further. Did I need to apply more inward force and scrub down the etched areas once it was cleaned from contaminants? Or the only solution to these spots now is to polish? Here is a picture of one of many etchings. some others are bigger in size, some area smaller, one is shaped like an outline of a small leaf -( . The hood also has some tiny black dots that seem to have a white halo of discolored paint around them ~1mm wide.
What would be recommendations for me at this point, and what ballpark cost to fix if I am not skilled/dedicated enough to get into polishing myself if that's the route I have to take? I did look over the field guide link for paint damage in the sub wiki section, says etching removal can require up to polishing depending on severity, but I couldn't tell what severity etching I got going tbh.
Finally, are there any parts of this process that were done wrong or could be done better? Are the instant detailer spray and 10:1 ONR spray different in what they can do, or do they more or less perform same function to lubricate and suspend contaminants on the clear coat? Do I need to somehow strip opti-seal layer every few months to re-clay and re-seal, or just ONR on top and instant detailer spray>spot clay>reapply opti-seal in trouble spots from here on out?
No problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502586791&sr=8-1&keywords=turtle+wax
Easy to use. Just get the applicator pad a little wet, dab a little wax onto it, and apply it to the entire screen (just dont go into the microphone or speaker holes). Then give it a few minutes so it hazes over and dries, and then buff it out with a cloth. I usually did two or three coats but one is normally good. And it helps cover up very minor scratches too.
I used this stuff with a microfiber. Didn't take long at all and came out really nicely. I was just amazed at how much soot built up in a few months.
Take a heat gun to the badging and run some floss behind the letters and it should come right off. As for residue, use this awesome cleaner from Turtlewax. It worked for me, and I think the car looks much better.
1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.
2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.
3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra
4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit
5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.
6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.
I use a clay bar kit I got from the store, I figured it's just clay - nothing fancy. You can use water or a quick detailer as a lubricant, I personally use Griot's Garage Speed Shine.
For waxing, I do a layer of Jescar Power Lock Plus sealant, wait a day, then add a layer of Collinite 845 which should give it lasting protection.
Visit /r/autodetailing, they have fantastic tutorials and tips for beginners to those looking to go more advanced.
I always keep some bug and tar cleaner w/ a microfiber towel in the trunk for inevitable bird poop. Does a pretty good job of removal even if it has been on there for a couple days.
Yeah for sure! I got a headlight kit from amazon, the chemical guys silk shine spray and a spray bottle with dish soap and water. I also had a 24-pack of large microfiber cloths that I fully expected to throw away, and we chucked maybe 12 of them. They were CAKED with dirt. Haha.
Like this?
Turtle Wax T-241A Polishing Compound & Scratch Remover - 10.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JToqDbD8N20PT
With this?
Viking Car Care 862400 Microfiber Applicator Pads - 5 Inch Diameter, Blue, 6 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8UoqDbG3V6T3Y
Most car wash detergents will work fine unless it expressly stated that it is meant as a pre wax treatment.
Personally I use this: Meguiar's G17748 Ultimate Wash and Wax - 48 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00353PWAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ky0mzbEV7E4A0
It has a waxy compound in it, so it adds additional protection.... And it smells great.
Canuba wax when I feel ambitious. I really like the Griots speed shine in between waxes
Does this bike sit outside all the time without a cover? Do you ride it to work and park it in the direct sunlight all day? Those would be the first offenders. My bike is 9 years old and gets covered a lot - the seats still look brand new. Use this stuff when you clean your bike - it helps protect the plastic. I swear by it!
https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
To disinfect, I soak in Dettol Disinfectant. Immerse in lukewarm water and add hot water slowly to raise the temp and let it sit for an hour...
To clean, I use a soft toothbrush and dish washing liquid...
To polish, I use Flitz to make it shine...
By the way, be gentle when cleaning the "numbers", some of the black paint on mine flaked off unlike my Slims and Fatboys...
You can try simply waxing the surface of the board and adding pads to the bottoms of the strikers.
I use Mother's pure carnauba wax (amazon), same as on my crokinole board. The maker of Muzzie's crokinole boards recommends Turtle Wax super hard shell paste wax instead (amazon).
Under the strikers I put teflon stickers (amazon). Other people seem to have good results with Scotch felt pads instead (amazon).
I did this to a new-ish board with two coats of wax and the striker movement was so slick, the game was difficult to play until the surface got some wear. The results won't be so dramatic with a well-worn board, but it goes to show that a bit of waxing will make a difference.
What car do you have? Audi or BMW? Those are the two I know of that have flat color options.
Chemical Guys makes a waterless car wash. I've never used it myself, but I've heard good things about it. There are plenty of YouTube videos reviewing it.
I store 8 bikes in mine. Never a problem. Though if you'd like to keep it looking clean, I can't recommend this enough.
https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-SC1-Silicone-Spray-12oz/dp/B000WK5PWQ
Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387042&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather
Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387140&sr=8-2&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash
For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387101&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0
Dash protectant, I use 303.
https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387193&sr=8-4&keywords=303+protectant
Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.
Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.
After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.
Seconded for 3M Adhesive Remover. I've tried a bunch of stuff and hands down this is the best.
Personally I use a very very tiny amount of Honda Polish on almost all my electronics and have never seen it remove or tarnish any surface and it works great.
Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish is great for removing surface blemishes / rust.
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478636075&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+mag
CGs P40 $26.95.
Smells like bubblegum. It seems to do a decent job. 2-3 sprays per panel, and I feel it helps the drying process, and holds the silky smoothness after washing that week.
I bought Chemical Guys P40 for this reason. $13 for one gallon is a great deal.
Honda Spray is the shit.
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UD0GGS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It's cheaper and a lifetime supply that does the same thing as the PolyWatch. Fine for little scratches. You just put a bit on a Qtip and twirl it around the scratch. Eventually it gets a little gritty and that's when the abrasive starts working on the scratches. You'll probably do it a few times before they are good enough. Just a tiny bit of the product at a time, it goes a long way.
I don't recommend a car wash at all, but do not use a car wash that touches the car. I summarized so just ask if you want more details.
I have never heard of any place that details bikes. Hose it down with a liberal amount of this(Muc-Off works well too), wait, rinse it off , dry the bike and then use this stuff everywhere except the seat and grips. Your bike will look brand new and it will only take like 20 minutes. That's probably all a shop is going to do.
I own these 2 waxes/sealants, which would be better for winter?
NXT 2.0 Tech Wax
Duragloss 105
Waterless car wash is great. Forget the hose and buckets. Spray on the waterless wash and wipe off the dirt.
Edit: I use this stuff: Chemical Guys WAC_707RU_16 EcoSmart-RU Ready to Use Waterless Car Wash and Wax (16 oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FSAV5LU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DyaADbBRY7Y13
5.95 for a can. Turtle Wax is soo generous.
I had a blast tonight. Thanks for everything. I look forward to next time.
Is this the wax you bought?
Mothers 05724 California Gold Spray Wax - 24 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MXX5D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JlJuDbFQG89YM
Also, what was the towel?
I am looking for an all purpose quick detailer and found this? What do you guys think or are there better options?
https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-WAC_114-Detailer-Protectant/dp/B001WX4E74
3M Adhesive Remover. You want some good air circulation when using this stuff though.
I've used 845 for years now. Thinking of using Meguiars Ceramic Wax to top it off when I wash it.
I'm curious to see how this combo works.
Can't help too much on restoration.
For basic cleaning stuff, you can pick up somethings like this:
Stoner's Glass Cleaner
Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo
Meguiar's D101 All Purpose Cleaner
You can dilute D101 for different ratios and use it full strength as a degreaser and lower strengths for interior work.
Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 is a popular wax, but I like Collinte 845 more.
Depending on how bad your wheels are, Sonax or IronX if your wheels are bad, D101 if they are Ok.
Check out this thread as well: The Bare Minimum Supplies List
Meguiar's G190526 Hybrid Easy to Use Ceramic Wax Protection-G190526, 26 oz https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WVQ6MVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62omDb5825XQF
After you get it as clean as possible, spray it with detailing spray, it works wonders. This stuff; Maxima SC1
Try this stuff https://www.amazon.com/HONDA-08732-SCP00-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
My mechanic uses it to clean everything off of everything.
Hey guys,
If you look at the exhaust straight on, there's so much carbon build up. I live in the Bay Area where it's been sunny so the outside of it looks shiny! Once rain starts, it'll be messy like the rest. It's an aftermarket exhaust as well.
I always keep this and a microfiber in my car so I can wipe away gunk that gets on my car.
https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-11146SP-Speed-Detailer/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505861830&sr=8-1&keywords=griots+garage
Clean it with flitz, https://www.amazon.com/Flitz-BP-03511-Fiberglass-1-76-Ounce/dp/B00MUG95UI . Then protect all your exposed iron on your tools with Collinite paste wax, https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Paste-Fleetwax-885-12/dp/B008KPDA1S. The paste wax will make your table saw bed slicker than snot on a door knob. I sweat a lot, and I got pissed that my table saw bed was getting rust spots. This hasn’t happened since using the paste wax. Plus all the wood slides over the table easily.
Wash the bike so it's spotless, then spray it down with Maxima SC1. It'll shine and smell amazing, no way she could possibly object.
I would recommend
http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-241A-Polishing-Compound/dp/B0009JKGJ2
And a buffer/sander, with a soft bonnet
Use a high-grit sandpaper and follow it up with a plastic polish like Novus 2.
I did that with mine and you can barely tell.
I know a lot of people use a basic metal polish like this
Mother's Mag Polish on a Dremel with the Jewelry cleaning attachments.
Mothers
Polishing Kit
My Norinco 1911 had a very gritty slide, so I bought some of this stuff (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MUG95UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and applied dabs of it to where the rails and worked the slide for about 10 minutes. Smoothed it right out. I also did a bit of dremel work to clean up the inside with a buffing attachment. These are things that would work themselves about eventually with use, but it speeds up the breaking in.
Title | Mirror Polish Your Spinner: Level 2
Description | Today we try our hand a little more involved spinner polishing. We aren't just polishing flat surfaces y'all! Want to get in on the action? Quick links down below. Assorted set of Sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZVWBT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pbTlzb65TH4NK Higher grit sandpaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013W44ESY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_vcTlzbJ5S0QN3 Flitz Metal Polish: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MUG95UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_yGkpzbNPZ3GRY
Length | 0:11:58
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Is it ok to use this shampoo on my car's windows?
I've been using Chemical Guys' Silk Shine Dressing for tires, rubber, and plastic. It works rather well IMO.
http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q
You can also try Flitz does wonder on shallow marks. Cleaned up the top of a used hybrid I bought.
Recommended http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII
All I have to add is this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3M makes the most amazing adhesive remover I have ever used in my life. Spray it on, wait a few seconds, and it destroys any sticky glue. Life changing stuff.
Flitz polish
Flitz BP 03511 Metal, Plastic and Fiberglass Polish with Paint Restorer, 1.76-Ounce, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MUG95UI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DJEdBbTT9ZPF3
Use a standard AR-15 cleaning rod and load up some barrel swabs (or just cut up a t-shirt) with it and just run it back and forth until desired smoothness is reached. I use flitz on my real bolt actions to polish the bolt/receiver so they cycle smoothly.
Similar to what Justniz posted, I had some scratches on my lenses and picked up this stuff NOVUS 2 Plastic Find Scratch remover. You put a small dab on the lens and rub it in a circle pattern for about 2 minutes with a clean microfiber cloth until the lens is clear again. Was a bit scary at first but it worked out and my lenses look brand new again.
I am now cleaning the dust out of the headset regularly to avoid any future issues, although the repair stuff works well so it's less of a concern.
I use meguirs nxt tech wax 2.0 and turtle wax and dry in between applications
https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0
Plastic polish:
http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-Plastic-Fine-Scratch-Remover/dp/B002UD0GGS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407377821&sr=8-2&keywords=novus+2+plastic+polish
They also have a kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Plastic-Polish-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000J41VDM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407377821&sr=8-3&keywords=novus+2+plastic+polish
Honda Pro Polish
.
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Honda-Spray-Cleaner-Polish/dp/B004FSEJZA
I used a lithium silicate sealer and carnauba based wax. I think it's a more durable, longer lasting finishing system than anything oil based. Oil also darkens the colors. The sealer and wax won't change final color.
​
Sealer:
https://concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/FishLithiumGal
​
Wax:
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=carnauba+wax&qid=1565364222&s=gateway&sr=8-29
Two bucket wash with Meguiars Gold Class Soap, then a quick wax with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax. Used Invisible Glass for all glass.
SC1?? - I use this stuff too.
I've used adhesive remover spray. The black gunk melted right off without scrubbing. I think it's this stuff.
hit it with a few coats of this and dry it off when wet
I use Meguiar's Nxt Generation Tech Wax. It's what I've used since ~2003.
I use this on my bike.
http://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00353PWAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ky0mzbEV7E4A0
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00068GEJM/ref=asc_df_B00068GEJM55768446/?tag=googshopuk-21&creative=22110&creativeASIN=B00068GEJM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=205312686904&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11474337088846749024&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046811&hvtargid=pla-404900476440&th=1&psc=1
> Opti-Seal
This stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-20239-Opti-Seal-Foam-Applicator/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521835674&sr=1-1&keywords=opti-seal
Should I buy a foam applicator?
Optimum (20239) Opti-Seal with Foam Applicator Pad - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4ysRAbY208VGG
New bike in a can
Mother's Aluminum Polish has worked wonders for my aluminum Cannondale. Just wipe some on a cloth and swab it around. The cloth will be black after awhile because it gets so much grime off.
I can polish aluminum to a mirror surface with that stuff
Flitz
I use Chemical Guys.
Their stuff is not cheap, but their products are of high quality.
Optimum (20239) Opti-Seal with Foam Applicator Pad - 8 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HYYGTT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ttQUCbWAR2RRA
3M Adhesive remover
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII
I will be removing a lot of adhesive residue from a vehicle early next week. I plan on using http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQYA7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I'll report back with how it works.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00353PWAW?pc_redir=1398242581&robot_redir=1
This is how the pros do it. And, they use Flitz.
Mother's aluminum wheel polish. I know it sounds odd, but the stuff will make your headlights look like new in no time :-).
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05100-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B00068GEJM/
Looks like bird shit. Try some bug and tar remover with a microfiber cloth.
Pro Honda Polish
I swear by it. It's the only thing I use on my Harley. Chrome/Paint/Glass. Look no further.
Thanks I will give that a try. I was also looking at 3M 03618 Adhesive remover. Does anyone have any experience with this or similar products? I'm mostly worried about it damaging the plastic.
My fault forgot to reply to this.
So this is the final polishing boat wax I used. In addition to this I also used this and this. For the clay bar I used Meguirs. For the tire shine I used this.
Sorry, linked the wrong one. A little goes a long way - I ride year round and only go through 2 of these full size cans:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FSEJZA/
Ugh, WD40? Guess you hate your paint. You should be using a bug and tar remover that's safe for car paint.
It's so strange you posted this question, because I have a similar problem. A brand new car I just bought has finger smear marks on the edges of the back window. Ammonia based glass cleaner had no effect. It appears to be some kind of dried adhesive, similar to super glue. I'm guessing it's what was used to glue the back window on and the idiots at the factory weren't careful. It's right around the defroster grid near the edge. If it was on the outside, I'd be able to use a razor blade. Unfortunately, the dealership I bought the car from is in another state. The service manager suggested 3M Adhesive Remover, but there are various part numbers to confuse me:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1536818222&sr=8-5&keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
https://www.amazon.com/3M-38983-General-Purpose-Adhesive/dp/B004EBNTYK/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1536818222&sr=8-6&keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
https://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B0002NUO6K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1536818222&sr=8-4&keywords=3m+adhesive+remover
I contacted 3M about this twice and and this was their only response:
"We’re uncertain as to what the residue Is but it will likely work. If used properly I wouldn’t expect any harm to come from trying it. Use nitrile gloves: Spray it onto a clean detailing cloth and use it to remove the adhesive.
Any of the part numbers they mention should work, these vary due to package size options and volatile organic compound restrictions."
The second part to their answer doesn't make sense to me, and I'm not sure what the qualifications were of the person who responded. I responded by asking which one was the least aggressive and didn't get a response.