Reddit mentions: The best car transmission parts & accessoires

Cheap, or expensive, is relative. What budget do you have to work with? Basically, I would say in total for the rig, around $700-800 can get you something pretty decent, then you're looking for the actual console/PC and the games themselves as an additional price.

For a fairly cheap, but still best bang-for-buck rig, I would recommend:

• Any of the T300 + T3PA bundles, for example the T300 Ferrari Alcantara Edition - Great wheel, best entry level wheel by far. With decent pedals, optional brake mod included that, imo, improves the feel a lot. Clutch included.
  
  
• TH8A shifter - Fairly cheap, all things considered,
  
  
• Simetik K2 cockpit - Very sturdy and customizable for its price, and also doesn't have that annoying bar down the middle that basically inhibits you from heel-and-toe downshifting that most of the other cheap rigs have.
  
  All in all this comes down to $885 as of right now, if you want to save a little bit you could go for the original T300 GT Edition instead and it'll be $817.
  
  The Simetik K2 is by far the best rig you can get in that pricebracket, but if you must save some more either skip the shifter for now or get a Playseat Challenge, it isn't the sturdiest but again, I do not recommend getting a rig with the pole in between your legs, I would personally rather play at a desk and an office chair than that, as it, at least for me, makes it really hard to heel-and-toe, and I love racing old DTM and GT cars with manual gearboxes and couldn't do without that.

A day late and a dollar short, but I think your comment is deserving of more discussion.

> the best hope is for a reduced profit margin for XYZ

When you consider the corporate cash that is piling up and the massive compensation packages received by board members and upper management you would think that these would be prominent in the discussion. But somehow it has become ingrained into the culture that it is bad or perhaps impossible to address this part of the equation let alone even discuss it and so it goes virtually ignored just like your comment. The issues with income inequality and stagnating or declining middle class incomes and wealth is not caused by China, it is caused by the massive imbalance in the trade consumers engage in when they trade their labor for the products sold by corporations.


The op almost gets it but misses the mark...
> The widgets are then imported and sold for $100 each with a 20% profit margin.

The profit margins are many times more than 20% and while it is difficult to extract actual values it is possible to get close. Here is a recent example I encountered. Virtually all transmission and motor mounts sold in auto parts stores are made in China and I was recently in need of a transmission mount.


At the local parts store the Chinese part is $93.99.

But the same Chinese part can be had from a shop in L.A. for $21.50 with free shipping.


Now who knows what the distributor in L.A. is making in profits but even if the local store was buying from the L.A. shop themselves instead of buying direct from China then their markup is over 300%.


I have purchased other parts directly from China, which results in some very long lead times, and the markups at local and other online retailers is even higher.

The point of all this, when jobs are off-shored there is often the claim that it makes the cost of living for the middle class lower because savings can be passed on to the consumer. But nobody is checking and it sure looks like in many cases the middle class is still paying what they would if the parts were manufactured here in the States and the difference is going into the pockets of a few.

So we have all these comments about the coming inflation because the cost of everything will go up to cover the increase in labor costs and here sits your comment that touches on that taboo, cut the massive out of control profiteering that is the real cause of income inequality. Of course there isn't much that Trump can do to address this, it is going to require that the working class start using their own power in the market place to get a fair trade for their own labor.

Entirely depends on your budget - but at the very least something with Force Feedback, like the Logitech g29 with shifter - that's a very common setup. $200-450 is the figure you'd be looking at - depending on if what you want is on sale. A bit cheaper if you don't want a shifter and want to use the paddle shifters behind the wheels.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-G29-Driving-Shifter-Bundle/dp/B016JBE8LU $299

I chose one a little higher priced, the Thrustmaster T300RS GT edition (3 pedal setup not the cheaper 2 pedal one without the clutch) as well as the TH8A shifter. I got the wheel on sale, full price on shifter. https://i.imgur.com/Y8Gg5oO.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL?th=1 $388 + https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ $149


These wheels are much more than toys. You can feel the wheels on the road, traction loss, how much torque the cars have, if you slam into a wall the wheels can damn near rip your hands off (you can change the % of feedback to lower it). It makes the experience in VR feel super real. I'd say a wheel carries as much importance in VR racing as the headset does.

The craziest feeling I've gotten so far as just sitting at the start of a race idling in a '66 Mustang. The entire hood of this car is shaking back and forth like Dom's muscle cars in Fast and the Furious.....and the WHEEL is shaking left and right with the car exactly how you would expect something with that much power to. That thing was like 100% torque and it felt amazing.

Even if it takes some saving, I highly recommend one of them - although I would definitely wait until Black Friday to get $100 ish off of either one you choose. The sale prices for these are quite tolerable when they occur.

A stand for the wheel is much nicer than a table for mounting, but they can be pricey as well. From $100 and up. My Apiga AP2 stand was $280 but worth every penny to not have a bar in between your legs. Only $240 now and supports most wheels. https://www.amazon.com/APIGA-Foldable-Racing-Simulator-gearshift-ALL/dp/B00XBPYUIY

yeah if you have the ability to pull the trans then its not extremely difficult to rebuild it

you can get a full kit with discs and bands for $125 $150 on Amazon or from some other supplier..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C37BZQ9

and you just need pretty much basic tools to rebuild it

although this is one of his early videos this guy makes good automatic transmission videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPK5eEdH4vM

hand tools, socket wrench.. torque wrench if you want to be nice but probably not 100% necessary and a couple hours

If you put in heavy duty bands and clutches its going to perform really well.

but it might just be a vacuum line or the fact its been sitting and maybe it needs its fluid changed

I would replace the torque converter if you are rebuilding the trans .. you can get one for $100 - $150 ..

but you know.. don't fix whats not broke...

I am just giving you info in case you take it some place and they tell you $1500 for a new trans...

well then you have junkyard like you said
or you can rebuild for under $400 and it will be better than new all heavy duty stuff inside
hardest part is probably the front and rear oil seals you just need to drive them in straight .. preferably with a large socket or something flat .. and they are really easy to tap in but everyone freaks about them heh.. even if it leaks its $10 or something to replace it.

G920 bundle, includes the wheel, standard 3 pedal set, and their 6+R H-gate shifter, all for about $308. This fits your criteria near-perfectly.

Thrustmaster TMX Pro package, includes the wheel and T3PA pedals, all for about $270 (currently). Unfortunately, you'd have to buy their shifter separately, which can push the price up to about $400 altogether.

Similarities

Both wheels are not interchangeable, so you can't change the rim itself. Both are fully compatible with Xbox One and PC.

Differences

Because of the TMX's belt/gear hybrid system, its FFB is generally considered considerably smoother than the G29/G920's helical gear system, and the T3PA pedals are better than the Logitech pedals in both size and resolution (accuracy). Not to mention that Thrustmaster's shifter can not only be used as a handbrake in sequential mode, but is a 7+R shifter, which is pretty handy when you're playing games with high-end cars. The best part: if you get this bundle and end up wanting to upgrade to the TX (the TMX's big brother) later on, you could use the shifter and pedals you already have with the TX base.

On the other hand the G920's base an be hard mounted (the TMX can only be clamp mounted), and has a leather-on-metal wheel, compared to the TMX's rubber-on-plastic wheel, if that matters to you.

I believe the 5000 lb. number is when you have the aux. Transmission cooler and a weight distributing hitch. You shouldn't need a weight distributing hitch when only towing 1700 lbs, but it sounds like you need a cooler for sure.

I'm not familiar with the KK at all, but when I did the install on my ZJ, I didn't need do take the radiator or condensor our like someone else commented about. I did take off the bumper and grill though. I just spliced into the rubber transmission lines with double barbed brass fittings with 2 fuel injector clamps on both ends, and ran new 3/8" high temp trans line in front of the radiator and mounted the cooler to the supports behind the grill. The fuel injector clamps are important, because the dont cut into the rubber lines linke the traditional screw type hose clamps.

Another thing you need to think about is if you want to isolate your aux. cooler from the in-radiator cooler you already have. Most factory Aux. cooler setups are plumbed in-line with the in-radiator cooler. I just completely took the in radiator cooler out of the equation and got an oversized cooler. It a lot easier to not have mess with the fittings on the radiator, since they always seem to be a pain and usually require special tools. It will make your engine run a tick cooler as well. Some people think that you need the in radiator cooler to "warm up" the transmission fluid in the winter, but I've had mine separated for years and I've driven in temperatures as cold as -17*. It took longer until it would shift into overdrive, but that seemed to be the only issue. I'm also not sure it actually warms the fluid up any faster because on initial cold start up the thermostat is closed, so the coolant in the radiator isn't circulating around the engine, so that coolant is just as cold as everything else.

By isolating the aux. cooler, you can also avoid the dreaded "strawberry milkshake", where the radiator cracks/leaks internally and your transmission fluid and coolant mix and gets pumped through the transmission creating a pink frothy goop, that will probably take out your transmission. Thats super rare, but it does happen, Xterras were known for that problem.

Hey there-- I had a 2000 Explorer Sport with a 5-speed. If yours is like mine was (and mine was identical to the 2000 Ranger) this might help. The shifter was stiff moving between gears, and sometimes I had to pump the clutch pedal to get it to move in or out of gear, especially when stopped.

The clutch is hydraulic.

The master cylinder is oriented in such a way that if the seals on the master cylinder piston are starting to fail, it has a tendency to pull air into the master cylinder, which gets trapped at the top of the piston, causing the clutch to get spongy and not fully disengage when you press the pedal all the way to the floor. Sometimes pumping it a few times will help temporarily, but it always comes back. You cannot bleed this bubble out of the system by pumping the clutch and using the bleeder screw.

This video shows the first thing I tried. It lets the air out of the top of the master cylinder without removing the cylinder from the car. It's awkward, difficult and messy. You'll want to cover the driver's side floor with a plastic trash bag and put something absorbent on top, like paper towels, to protect your carpet.

This worked for me... temporarily. IF THIS WORKED, chances are your master cylinder seals are going, which is why there was air in the system in the first place.

The permanent solution, for me, was to replace the master cylinder. It came complete with a fluid reservoir and the hydraulic line that goes all the way down to the quick-disconnect check valve at the slave cylinder on the clutch. It cost something like $65, and looks like this. Double-check to make sure that's the right one for your truck. When it arrived, I filled the system and did a full bench-bleed like this:

Ranger clutch bench bleed.

Hope this helps!

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I assume instead of GTE you mean the T300 RS GT Edition.

This is the T300 RS GTE, and $400 is not a good price for it.

The difference is the GT Edition has better pedals than the GTE.

re: The T150. There is the Pro version that has the 3 pedal set, but it's currently unavailable on Amazon.

You can also get a separate 3 pedal set like the T3PA, or some refurbished G27 Pedals and the Leo Bodnar Adapter.

For a budget first-time wheel, maybe look second-hand? The G29 is mechanically exactly the same as the G27, and the G27 can normally be picked up for c. $200 or less second-hand.

Also bear in mind, the G29 does not come with a shifter, but the G27 does. If you want a shifter for the G29 you'll need to spend probably a minimum of c. $60 for the Logitech Shifter. However, the Logitech Shifter is pretty shit, so you might be better off getting at least the TH8A.

What's he difference between the G29, T150 and T300?

If you're comparing all the 3 pedal set versions, then the pedals are all virtually equal.

The difference is mainly FFB.

The G29 FFB is fine, but has a noticable deadzone at the top and can sometime feel a little bit notchy.

The T300 FFB is smoother, faster, stronger and quieter than the G29 and has virtually no deadzone. It's significantly better, but maybe not $150 better (depends on what it's worth to you).

I've been told the T150 FFB is somewhat between the G29 and T300, but I've not tried it myself.

The 3 pedal is the best part of these wheels, and a lot of people continue to use them even after upgrading to Fanatec/TT. The Logitech shifter is sold separately now, and imo it's not worth the $60 they charge for it--save up for better quality. G25/27 wheels used to be a great value because they included 3 pedals + shifter for around $250-300 in an era when higher tier belt drive Thrustmaster wheels were around $500 just for the wheel and pedals.


A good shifter is going to cost you 100-150, so will a good set of pedals. But you should own a basic wheel like the TT TX for a few months to decide if you use it enough to warrant investing in higher end pedals/shifter. A lot of people buy these things and they just end up sitting in a closet being used a few times a year (if that).

I'm sorry to hear about your buddy, I hope the benefit went well.

Oooh, I honestly dont know. I bought mine from the dealership but returned it as the original was still in good condition. I'd call the dealership and request the part number, they should be able to give you that. I found this, and apparently it will fit our Frontier, but I can't say with absolute certainty. ATP B-327 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QBZD1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q0N1AbVM9FDK2

Another thing I would recommend is checking with ClubFrontier. One of those guys is bound to know.

Anytime you're dealing with wear components, picking them up from a scrap yard is sketchy at best. So brake pads, clutch, flywheel,that kind of stuff you want new.

Exedy usually makes good clutches at a reasonable price.

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-CLUTCH-08022-92-00-HONDA/dp/B078X6NWPV

When you do the clutch you either need to get the flywheel machined flat or replace it.

https://www.kseriesparts.com/EXE-FWHDC01.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwkcblBRB_EiwAFmfyy46fIk2nHZfuXpk2irDuHJusu8xxe5hvp2bTzJWdLe2zQ05m4rk9khoCTW8QAvD_BwE

Something that is designed to continue functioning in the same shape rather than wearing down over time? I would be happy picking them up from a scrap yard if I was confident in identifying parts that are in good shape. Ignition cylinder and distributor I would take from a scrap yard if I found a good one.

Simple answer... the LUK 07-202 kit. Good Brand, great price, very complete.

We needed a clutch kit a couple years ago on our 2006 v6 and the LUK kit was the most complete OEM type clutch (and a good brand). The later v6's have a dual mass (not easily turned) flywheel so this kit having the flywheel is great.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K0TWU6

The feel is OEM like and no issues with the install. We only have about 43k miles on the clutch kit so I can't speak for it's true longevity

Originally I had planned to do a shifter rebuild today. I had a few of the OEM Bushing, but cut a corner somewhere and got this Doorman shifter rebuild kit from Amazon. And it didn't work the moment I took it out of the box. turret bushing and others weren't the same.

So I had this MiataRoadster shifter that I bought during the Christmas sale. I wasn't planning on putting it on today, but since I already took off my shifter. I went ahead and installed it. Installation should be straightforward. Just follow this guide it will help.

As for the Pros and Cons. The quality is really nice, throws are super short it took me a minute to get use to it, and to be honest I'm still not use it to it yet. You'll probably be laughing at how crazy fast you shift now. Only did a quick night run with it a few hours ago so not much else to say really.

Cons. I would say it's stiffer than stock. Even though the throws are shorter I was thinking that there would be less work involved, and sometimes I feel like I have to force it in gear? Not sure if there's any break it process and if it gets any better. Also, another con, this may only pertain to me, but I'll just throw it out there. It was difficult for me to downshift into 1st gear. Again, not sure if that was my error, but it happened a few times were I had to shift back to neutral from 2nd in order to get into 1st.

So here's the deal. The 2003 Accord is known for its rather weak automatic transmission. From what I've heard, it has a lot to do with heat buildup. My girlfriend's car has 210,000 miles and most likely needs to push another 50,000. The transmission shifts fine and I want to keep it that way. So, I added another larger oil cooler to the system, along with a spin-on filter to hopefully catch some particulates. I know the transmission has a filter, but they say its not serviceable and I feel like the extra surface area of the larger filter could help with cooling as well. I decided to put the oil filter between the two coolers so that the filter could catch the crap that may be stuck up in the existing cooler.

Hopefully this spurs an idea in someone else's head, it really wasn't all the difficult and (i hope) will save me thousands in the long run

SUPPLIES:

Spin-on filter and mount

Extra hose

Aftermarket cooler kit

Genuine Honda ATF

Extra spin on nice filter

I currently use an aftermarket paper filter on my '69 and it definitely improved my performance (not drastically, but the engine sounds and feels like it just got a new set of lungs) but it took me a while to get there. There are paper filters that sell for about $20 with the ability to attach the blow-by like this one. I had to recalibrate the carb a little after but it definitely improved my performance for a while till it started getting clogged by oil. It got clogged with oil because there was little travel in the tube from the blow-by to the air filter so all the oil vaporized and then got trapped in the filter, and then excess oil passed through the filter and gunked up the top of my engine :(. I bought another one (because there so dam cheap anyway) and set up a much longer coil of tubing to the right of the fan shroud to remedy this. The appropriate way to prevent the oil buildup than my tube coil is to install a breather box like this one. But these things are too expensive for me right now so I'm sticking with my makeshift one.

I posted this above, It can be cheap but if you want something that feels right.. it's not so cheap.

>[Thrustmaster](https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Force-Feedback-racing-wheel-WINDOWS/dp/B01CI97DNM/ref=sr_1_4?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1537753451&sr=1-4&keywords=thrustmaster+steering+wheel+pc&dpID=51bn3uOuWAL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
) on amazon is $160. It comes with pedals. But honestly after a month I upgraded to much better pedals and then bought a shifter ended up costing me over $400 by the end of it all lol. You can get away with just the wheel and default pedals though.

I can recommend my setup:
Thrustmaster T300 Ferrari Alcantara Integral Edition

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015KJ0SES/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487172453&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+t+300

Get a extra shifter like the TH8A

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487172565&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster&dpPl=1&dpID=41AEMeEQwUL&ref=plSrch

SimRig GT Omega Pro RS9

http://usa.gtomegaracing.com/racing-simulator-cockpits/pro-racing-simulator-cockpit/gt-omega-pro-racing-simulator-basic-rs9-seat-canada

Total cost: 1070$

Of course you could get even better options on the market. But IMO it is the best compromise between cost, reliability and quality.

I put in a LUK in mine as a daily about 4 months ago and it feels quite nice.

 

It softened the clutch a little bit, but otherwise, it's a pretty great replacement, especially because the kit has all you need and it is at a very reasonable price (in comparison to every other replacement clutch out there).


I bought this one on amazon

Yes it is, you replace it with a good aftermarket one like this one. I also have this in my 02 GT. Shorter shifts, tighter feel, and much better springs.

http://www.amazon.com/Steeda-555-7353-Tri-Ax-Aluminum-Shifter/dp/B002L1GZNM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464395607&sr=8-1&keywords=steeda+tri+ax

I just bought a new 13' manual R/T. I managed to talk them down a grand or two. But with you targeting a used R/T I think it will differ heavily on the person you are dealing with, and the condition of the car. Whether it be a dealership or private owner.

As for the shifter, I purchased this mopar brushed aluminum shifter. And I couldn't be happier with it. In my opinion its a lot more comfortable than the original, and it's quite easy to install. I can take some pictures of it if you'd like.

First off, congratulations! The Si coupe is a brilliant car, both in terms of drivability and usability. It’s good to hear that the car already has some mods installed, but here’s a small little list I’ve made of other mods you could look into.

Performance Mods

• Hondata Flash Pro
  
• Acuity Throttle Spacer
  
• Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bar
  
• KSport Lowering Coilovers
  
• GReddy 304 SS Cat-back Dual Rear Exhaust
  
  

  Design Mods
  

• Mugen Shift Knob
  
• GarageLine 20mm Wheel Spacers
  
• Depo Type R Style Plug and Play LED Headlights
  
• Sporty Red Gearbox Trim CVT Only
  
  
  This is just a small list and I’m still building on it. Hope you can find some use for these mods!

Not bad. I think I saw it at £200 the other week for all 3.

I’ve heard that the G920 has some reliability issues and that the TMX is probably better to go with if you get the Pro set with the T3PA pedals.

If you’re not too bothered about the shifter straight away I’d get the TMX. I have it and the wheel is great for the price bracket, just steer clear of the 2 pedal set if you have the budget to go a step further. Some links below so you can have a look;

ThrustMaster TMX PRO Steering Wheel + Pedalboard https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01M5ALXJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6RUpDb20TDV5F

ThrustMaster T3Pa Pro Pedal set - 4060065 (Gaming > Game Controllers) +}b https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00UVN21IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HSUpDbP6YVZ0D

Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter (PS4, Xbox One, PS3, PC - Windows 8, 7, Vista & XP) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eTUpDbTEV2EHJ

Lightened flywheels are a very, very, very worthy investment. You can scoop up an ACT or Comp for less than $300 all day, I've seen them on Amazon for a hair under $200.

This is actually a pretty sweet deal: http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-FF01T-Chromoly-Racing-Flywheel/dp/B0019D4AD0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1418755780&vehicle=2002-13-62-150---6-6-3134-118-1-1---18-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2002%3Asubaru%3Aimpreza

D30 Front Axle? Here's a good start: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f282/front-axle-u-joint-removal-67699.html

They link to Stu's site, which shows you how to pull the axle shafts http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/d30/axle-1.htm and how to replace a ujoint http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/ujoint1/u-joint-1.htm

There's a great trick (with pic) for removing the hub/shafts: http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/problems-replacing-wheel-bearing-hub-28951/

Spicer 5-760x is more durable than the stock 5-297, under $24 shipped with amazon prime: http://www.amazon.com/Spicer-5-760X-U-Joint-Kit/dp/B009X1XDZG

Over on rockauto, search "DANA HOLDING CORP Part # 5760X Spicer" $21.89 plus shipping.

to compare, $29.99 on qtec: http://www.quadratec.com/products/52302_102.htm also to verify fit.

Short version: unbolt and pull the entire hub/shaft, press out old one, press in new one, put it back together.

Edit: Just remembered matt at bleepinjeep has done a few vids on ujoints: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE9aNHFehqw

> Does the wheel come with transmission stick?

I wouldn't call it a transmission stick. This is my wheel, wich is on the cheap side. It has a stick but is just like two buttons you can push with it. More expensive wheels let you connect better sticks: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/

or if you have money to burn you can buy something like this

This happened to me this past winter. Exact same noise. It's the pilot bearing, which is probably frozen onto the input shaft of the tranny at this point. All you need is a new clutch. A great OEM style clutch is the EXEDY KMZ03. I used it on my 1999 and it feels great and has great reviews for longevity.

If the pilot bearing IS frozen onto the input shaft, you will know that when you try to pry the trans off of the block, and it won't go much past 3/4 of an inch. This took me weeks to figure out what was going on in the bell housing, but if you sneak a wrench through the hole that the clutch lever goes into, you can unbolt the clutch spring assembly from the pressure plate and that will allow the trans to be removed. Be very careful not to torque the trans too much when prying, as you can bend the input shaft which would leave you without a trans.

I used a Dremel cutting wheel to cut the pilot bearing off of the input shaft once I got the transmission off of the block.

I hope this helps! Feel free to PM me if you need any info or pictures etc.

Edit: You will also want to get a new flywheel, or get your existing one resurfaced, depending on its wear.

Here is the link for the clutch kit, it is on sale on Amazon. Note that it does not include the flywheel, but includes all of the other necessary bearings and parts.

For reference, this is my setup, pictured is the F1 wheel, but I have the Alcantara wheel as well, so feel free to ask questions.


https://images-ext-1.discordapp.net/.eJwNxksSwiAMANC7sIdACE3obfhpdWzLFFw53l3f6n3U-3qpVW1z9rEClHqY-hjlvGrq3ZRzhzRnKtvejjkALbGwZe9EOHCwBEjIiAs5jv9EKwJ5cYiena4-VU2hZi1ebjq3JkS5lNiyRuesYPABzbPf1fcHVQknLA.M_GwCWqhJqb1iCz30UZ_v9qn0NI?width=2000&height=1500


One of the best packages is this,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015KJ0SES/ref=twister_B01CQAGISE?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1479935435&sr=1-1&keywords=TH8A

First what year is it?
Replace the clutch, flywheel, and transmission is the obvious advise. You could rebuild the transmission, but it's always less stress to just put in a new one and know it will last. Also possibly check the transmission mounts if they are worn it could possibly explain third popping out.
You can do this all at one time with the help with another person. Since you have no experience try finding someone with experience. If you don't know anyone go to a local car club's website or even go to drive in car show and just ask around if someone can help. Car guys are generally awesome and want to teach. You can rent tools, but honestly I would invest in the proper tools, and never have to take your cars to the shop again (Unless it's something crazy).

Here's some links but I don't the year so these might not help:

http://customdc5.my-php.net/diy/clutch/

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KHC10-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5GA0C

http://acurazine.com/forums/performance-parts-modifications-126/diy-manual-transmission-clutch-replacement-removal-833245/

http://www.purzauto.com/PartDetails.aspx?sku=3331191&MakeModelID=1&utm_source=google&utm_medium=googlebase&utm_campaign=shopping&source=gmc&gclid=CP2HusXEpsICFUQV7Aodw0gAjw

For anyone wondering, it's a T300 RS wheel, TH8A Shifter and T3PA pedal set. All from Thrustmaster. The chair is a Challenge from Playseat. And a PSVR, obviously.

Edit: /u/StephenSchleis requested that I add Amazon links, so here you go.

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300RS-Officially-Licensed-Feedback-Racing/dp/B00O8B7D02/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328681&sr=8-1&keywords=T300+RS

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328694&sr=8-1&keywords=TH8A+Shifter

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T3PA-3-Pedal-Wide-Pedal-Add/dp/B00KX75W9O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328694&sr=8-4&keywords=TH8A+Shifter

https://www.amazon.com/Playseat-Challenge/dp/B009ZELZDS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480328735&sr=8-1&keywords=playseat+challenge

Bonus tip, the T3PA pedals come with the conical brake mod. It’s well worth installing. Also, cut out a piece of carpet and stick it to the pedal base for a bit of extra comfort.

You can buy lt from amazon or any good game retailer.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427667065&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40&keywords=thrustmaster+shifter&dpPl=1&dpID=31IeTgHKflL&ref=plSrch

If you want it for the xbox one make sure you get the TH8A shifter. There's another shifter which doesn't I nearly made the mistake.

You have to update the firmware on this before it works. Yep this shifter has its own firmware, So does the wheel. Easy enough to update unplug both and plug them into a pc and download updates

I haven't had this done yet, but what research I've done on the topic leads me to believe that you could probably shave a couple hundred off the price. Maybe start by bringing your own clutch?

From what I've heard the Exedy clutch IS the OEM part. They're pretty cheap.
http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=Miata%7C1110&Year=2001%7C2001&carId=002&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive

Also: Since information is your best weapon in negotiations, here's some weaponry: http://www.miata.net/garage/clutch_replacet.html
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=427870

You might be going through what I am now with my TJ. Good chance you have a front u-joint going.


Willing to bet steering feels a little stiff (more feedback than usual) despite proper levels in the power steering system and seems to ease up when straight.


Got myself a pair of these today via Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X1XDZG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Heads up if you have Prime, order the "single" twice instead of the 2-pack. For whatever reason they'll allow two singles to ship for free but not as a two pack.

I have a

T300RS $300 - https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T300-RS-Racing-Wheel-PlayStation/dp/B01M1L2NRL/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=t300rs&qid=1554582990&s=gateway&sr=8-3

with the TH8A Shifter $125 - https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=pd_bxgy_63_img_2/135-6912446-8039904?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005L0Z2BQ&pd_rd_r=afc361a8-58ab-11e9-95ee-65bbade3fd9d&pd_rd_w=05u5g&pd_rd_wg=tK57E&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=D59YM30ZCDJSHE7ZZJYP&psc=1&refRID=D59YM30ZCDJSHE7ZZJYP

and the GT Omega Stand $100 - https://usa.gtomegaracing.com/gt-omega-steering-racing-wheel-stands/gt-omega-steering-wheel-stand

I still have the boxes and everything is in perfect working condition. I'd sell it all for $500 + shipping.

https://www.amazon.de/Thrustmaster-4160681-Lenkrad-3-Pedal-Set-schwarz/dp/B014UOF0S8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491824607&sr=8-1&keywords=t300&th=1

&

https://www.amazon.de/Thrustmaster-TH8A-H-Shifter-XBox-4060059/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=pd_sim_63_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=02XVN3TS6KQ36TYZ9MZX

Could get the cheaper T300 GT if you want but the alcantera rim is worth it for that small price increase.

Its been great!

I have yet to run into any issues with the wheel itself, though I feel I should warn you that if you're on carpet, the pedals don't have carpet spikes. So, you'll need to have something weighty either behind them or holding down the front. Otherwise, they will tip backwards when you hit the brake pedal.

Also, the price dropped to $150 for a couple of weeks not too long ago. It's back to $200 now, but I wouldn't be surprised if it goes on sale again in the next few months, if you're willing to wait.

As for getting a shifter, you can, but it's expensive. The only one I know of that's compatible is the TH8A.

Feel free to reply here or PM me if you have any more questions. :D

Thank you for taking the time to reply.

Ok, yeah he's charging 780 for the labor, 80 for shop supplies and 100 for turning the flywheel. 500 for the clutch kit seems to be where things get off base.

What am I missing here, it looks like the oem clutch kit is $135 with prime shipping on Amazon.

Looks like that is a 3rd party sale, but the part number is correct. I should just buy this now, right? And return if it's not right or busted up.

More like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001HLXFHG/ref=mh_s9_acsd_topr_b13yaT_c_x_1_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-3&pf_rd_r=1FTBCVZ1A43HG4JPWX5D&pf_rd_r=1FTBCVZ1A43HG4JPWX5D&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=e4caac57-a527-5dfc-8966-2cec2551af43&pf_rd_p=e4caac57-a527-5dfc-8966-2cec2551af43&pf_rd_i=15724221
Except the little tabs won't pry up and the metal is to strong for dikes or shears

sure thing, I'm in the UK so links are for UK shops

T300RS - you can choose your wheel too, little cheaper with GTE rim but ultimately the same wheel
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-Official-Force-Feedback-wheel/dp/B00NOJJPZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418413732&sr=8-1&keywords=t300rs

T3PA Pedals
http://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/pc/t3pa.html

TH8A Stick - Out of stock just about everywhere at the minute but I pre-ordered at Amazon
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Shifter-PS4-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418413837&sr=8-1&keywords=th8a

or

http://shop.thrustmaster.com/en_gb/pc/th8a-shifter-add-on.html

Wheel Stand Pro - comes with all plates and mounts for everything above
http://wheelstandpro.com/products/wheel-stand-pro-for-thrustmaster-tx-racing-wheel-deluxe-v2

Total Cost
£571.46

Realistically however you can get away with just the wheel on its own clamped to as desk or something if budget is an issue. the pedals it comes with are ok but I had some foam down the back of the brake to add a little resistance

Yeah, it just plugs in via USB. This one is pricey, but supposedly very nice: https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-PC-PS3-PS4-Xbox-One/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/

• Wheel base: $220
  
  
  
• Shifter: $180
  
  
  
• Pedals: $150
  
  
  
• Wheel rim: $200
  
  Grand total: $750
  
  
• Fanatec: $1000
  
  It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.

This one. Feel free to PayPal me the price difference! :P

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ

I believe this is the only one that's compatable with modern Thrustmasters, They're extremely popular so the prices probably won't be much lower than $100 any time soon

Last time I got a new clutch was 2013, I replaced the flywheel with this EXEDY FF01T Chromoly Racing Flywheel, and the clutch with EXEDY KSB03 OEM Replacement Clutch Kit. Best clutch/flywheel combo I've had, including the original. I'm not really into high performance though, so I'm not sure why I got a "racing" flywheel. I think at the time it wasn't that expensive compared to whatever else was out there. Now it's $309, I think I paid more like $290.

It's buttery smooth though. My original clutch had a terrible grab and judder in low gears, and my second clutch was grabby and juddery in a different way, maybe even more annoying. This one has been a gem since day one.

You could also go for the Thrustmaster T300 with the Alcantara wheel and T3PA pedals and the TH8A shifter for less money than the bundle with a better wheel.

Throw out bearing. Save up for the stock replacement excedy clutch. It's 100$.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001B5DS7K?pc_redir=1410435831&robot_redir=1

Check your year, 1.6 used a different clutch.

Aaah, 1300$ is way too much for that, my mechanic guy never saw a miata before, and he could do the job without a fuss. The miata is famous for being easy to work on. Was that OEM parts for 450$? Exedy kits are going for 120$-200$, lots of us are going with exedy

http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/15-1014.html

https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KMZ03-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DS7K

Yes.. Dorman makes an upgraded part. Easy to change once the shifter is out. There's youtube videos out there on how.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-924-706-Chrysler-Transmission-Interlock/dp/B004AIHKT2

I fixed the link. Thanks for the response. Am i correct in understanding that size doesn't matter here And that I can use the same for Axel and driveshaft joints?

Fanatec do some nice ones, expensive though. Thrustmaster also do them.

Does it look like this: https://www.amazon.com/Empi-W0133-1643984-EMP-EMPI-Boot-Clamp/dp/B001HLXFHG

Here you go, I'm going to be doing mine as well.

Get you some anti-seize while you're at it. Gonna want it on your hubs and hub bolts after you put them back in place. You will need a 13mm 12-point socket for the job.

Amazon UK and Zavvi (reputable UK seller) both have the TH8A in stock:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Shifter-PS4-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ

http://www.zavvi.com/xbox-one-accessories/thrustmaster-th8a-add-on-shifter-for-ps4-xbox-one-ps3-pc/11073267.html

• Thrustmaster T300 Alcantara Edition
  
  
• Thrustmaster TH8A Shifter
  
  
• Fanatec ClubSport Handbrake V1.5
  
  
• Fanatec ClubSport USB Adapter
  
  
• Playseat Challenge
  
  
• 2 of these RAM mounts
  
  
• Logitech MK270 Wireless Keyboard and Mouse
  
  
• HTC Vive
  
  
• Tek Republic USB 3.0 Hub
  
  You also need a drill and a bunch of different size M6s to attach everything to the Challenge.
  
  Oh, and I put a bunch of foam behind my pedals.

TH8A £99.85 including shipping @ Amazon.co.uk

Will this work?

Amazon has them for $113 too...

so you'd suggest the below configuration over the Logitech one? Is there a reason I should stay away from Logitech?

Wheel

shift

seat

Spicer 5-760X U-Joint Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X1XDZG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also I used the two sockets method with a 4 lb hammer to change them

I just checked Amazon UK, where I'm lurking (probably not helpful if you're across the sea), and they have them in stock. However, I couldn't believe the price. They're about 75% more expensive than when I bought mine.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Shifter-PS4-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519862290&sr=8-1&keywords=Thrustmaster+shifter

It's a good idea to upgrade to that style. Here's the spicer one I got when my passenger side ujoint went bad

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009X1XDZG/

If you are on PC you have a number of choices for shifters. Since all of the shifters will use USB it is seen as a separate device and you just map it.

The shifter you asked about is probably the lowest priced option but you do have more options. Here are a few to think about.

The Thrustmaster TH8A can be changed from gated to sequential in about 2 minutes.

Fanatec also has 2 shifters. A sequential and a gated/sequential version.

Labor sounds about right - 4 hours total work.

Your clutch kit is about $7 cheaper than my NA6 OEM clutch kit, however your kit still shouldn't cost over $300 (for an OEM kit), that's just ridiculous.

/u/alsenan This isn't true, but the answer is unfortunately not great. The better one is made by Thrustmaster at $150:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TH8A-Add-Gearbox-Shifter-Xbox/dp/B005L0Z2BQ?th=1