I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

• McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  
• Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.
  
  BUCKETS
  
  
• Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  
• Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  
• Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.
  
  
  CHEMICALS
  
  
• Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  
• Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  
• Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  
• Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  
• Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.
  
  
  INTERIOR
  
  
• Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.
  
  
  WHEELS
  
  
• Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  
• Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  
• Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  
• ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.
  
  
  TOWELS
  
  
• Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  
• THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  
• Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.

/u/daniell61 is all about that detailing. Here's a recent comment from him

---

do you know if that [bike] is primarily plastic or primarily metal?

for metal polishes (non painted) I can recommend marine 31's metal polish. shit works wonders on oxidized metals!!! (its my go to for non painated)



leather? any car marketed leather cleaner would be fine. I prefer mckees37 or meguiars to be fair.

for plastics I like this. a lot

leahter cleaner here

for learning these microfibers are a good cost effective start and you wont be hurt when they die and you replace them.

I can recommend any mckees37 towels or the rag company microfibers.

this or 3D pink soap (dirt cheap but i love it) is a great soap for washing without stripping waxes!


if you're like me and dont have time to clean...

once you're done. spray this and wash it off and boom bam you're set to go and have a good quality glass silia coating! here

I like mckees products a fair bit ;)

for sake of easy ass waxing I like extender wax but I do also like meguiars quik wax. that stuffs damn cheap but good. sadly its carnuba only :(

---

here's another one

---

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

Heres how I detail both of my DR650s. As some of you might know I'm 100% rinseless. I don't think theres a good way to clean a chain with out water so I have always done a 2BM wash on my motorcycles. Now for motorcycle customers I don't clean their chain that is on them. That is a primary maintenance item that I will not do. The risk is far greater then the reward. Hope you enjoy the video! Edit: Side note took me about an hour for one of the bikes so about 2 hours for both.


List of everything I used:

• Lusso Auto Bathe: Not much suds but pretty good lubricity. I wouldn't use it again. I have filtered water so the water it self feels slippery.
  
  
• Meguiars Wheel\Tire Cleaner: Used for chain/wheels/tires. Really great cheap cleaner for wheels and tires.
  
  
• EZ Detail Brush: The blue brush in the video isn't sold anymore but this is still good.
  
  
• Boar's Hair Detailing Brush: Pretty good brush. Its a hit or miss on quailty. 1 of 3 that I have just keeps dropping fibers.
  
  
• Chenille Wash Mitt: Standard wash mitt works great.
  
  
• Ultima Waterless Wash Plus Concentrate: Amazing waterless wash. Great for drying as well.
  
  
• Double Mist Trigger Sprayer: Nothing special. Fun to play with.
  
  
• CarPro HydrO2: Works great 3 to 4 months of protection.
  
  
• Ryobi 40-Volt Blower: Great for yard work not so much blowing water. Get a corded blower mine was in the truck didn't feel like getting it out.
  
  
• Maxima Chain Wax: Works great but I would recommend DuPont Teflon Chain Wax Last longer. Just using up the last of the Maxima Chain Wax.
  
  
• Grunge Brush: Cleans the chain really well. Cleans 3 sides at a time means less work.
  
  Think thats everything. Enjoy!!

Hope this helps! This isn't an exhaustive list of the best professional products but some of the best top rated affordable and highly rated by forums and high subscriber YouTubers. I'll try to answer questions as they come. Thanks for all tye comments and positive/critical feedback. Promise is all helps in the end!

Wash/Decontamination

1. Meguiar’s Gold Class Shampoo Car Wash - $23 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071HR14SJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Mothers California Gold Clay Bar System (Best out of the packaged kits compared to “professional” line expensive clays/lubes) - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U2V1Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. Carpro Iron X Iron Remover 500 ml with Sprayer - $19 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UM6DLE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. CarPro Eraser Intense Oil & Polish Cleanser (Rated a little higher than Gyeon Prep – A few options out there but this is cheap and works great compared to straight IPA spray/wipe. It’s not rough on the clear coat and doesn’t cause issues with using higher % of IPA over time) - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FY0XY1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 2x Five-Gallon buckets with a dirt guard in the bottom. – Lowe’s $10-$15 with the dirt guard (already had that)
   
   Wheels/Tires
   
6. CarGuys “Premium Wheel Cleaner” - $17 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014V9GFJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
7. Mothers Mag & Aluminum Polish (Classic Product but you really won’t find a more reliable and top notch wheel polish than this – Here is Amazon link but usually you can pick this up cheaper at Walmart for about $4 or $5 I believe) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05101-Mag-Aluminum-Polish/dp/B0009H519Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549046381&sr=8-3&keywords=mag+and+aluminum+polish
   
8. 1x 2.5 Gallon Bucket Dedicated To Wheel Cleaning ONLY – Lowe’s $5
   
   Compounding/Polishing
   
9. Meguiar’s New m110 (Newer m105) Compound (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m110-pro-compound.html#.XFRhIlVKhpg
   
10. Meguiar’s New m210 (Newer m205) Finishing Polish/Swirl Remover (Try To Find A 15% Coupon) - $40 - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/meguiars-m210-pro-finishing-polish.html#.XFRhIVVKhpg
    
11. 6x Pack Lake Country CCS Compounding/Polishing Pads – 3x Orange/2x White/1x Green – $60 (Try to find a usable 15% coupon) - https://www.autopia-carcare.com/ccs-pads.html#.XFRfgVVKhpg
    
12. Meguiar’s PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish (Using for rear/front light polishing – Could use your compound to polish as an alternative but I like the protection factor built into this plastic polish) - $5 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY3SR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
13. Car Foam Drill Polishing Pad Kit - 22x Piece 3” Buffing Pads (Cheap drill adapter + pads for head/tail lights only – You could go with a legit company for 3” pads but for the cost it was a joke and they are only for head/tail lights, NOT paint) - $11 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076ZJMHB1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Finshing Wax/Protectant/Plastic & Trim Restorer
    
14. Meguiar’s Ultimate Liquid Wax - $16 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
15. TriNova Plastic & Trim Restorer (Hard Pressed to find anything as affordable for the ratings) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AAZ1OAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Interior/Glass Cleaners
    
16. 303 PROTECTANT: Interior & Exterior UV Protectant (Use it to wipe leather seats, dash, and plastics) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0185PU38A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s05?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
17. Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner w/ EZ Grip (Awesome stuff) - $4 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KAON5Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Convertible Fabric Top Cleaner/Protectant/Sealer
    
18. RaggTopp Fabric Convertible Top Cleaner/Protectant Kit (This is top in class. There aren’t really any other higher rated options. Go with kit that has cleaner/brush/protectant sealer.) - $50 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008MM5ZFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
    Microfiber Cloths/Car Drying Microfiber Cloths/Buffing Microfibers/Brushes/Etc.
    
19. Zwipes Microfiber Cleaning Cloths (24-Pack) (**Found this on a couple lists online for high ratings and they are soft/Highly rated on Amazon and cheap!) - $13 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
20. Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber Premium Scratch-Free Wash Mitt (Might consider 2-3 of them for washing the top and bottom parts of car – prevent further scratching) - $7 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TTL0TE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
21. Mothers Wheel Brush - $8 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GJ3DZS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s04?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
22. Chemical Guys Microfiber Wash Cleaning Detergent Concentrate (Almost all the videos put this one as #1 compared to a couple other companies that offer dedicated microfiber wash detergent) - $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJXWH4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
23. Chemical Guys Woolly Mammoth Microfiber Dryer Towel (25 in. x 36 in.) - $25 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042Z0LEO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
24. Other Random buffing foam applicators and microfiber cloths that came with some of the kits listed above. Will use those for compound wiping and etc.
    
25. Plastic Containers For Organization – Hefty 1.625 (Microfiber container) & 3.75 (Other products w/o squirt triggers) Gallon Containers I believe are the ones in the picture. These are awesome considering the cheap pricing. The plastic is heavy duty and the lathes aer decent all things considered. - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hefty-1-625-Gallon-6-5-Quart-Clear-Tote-with-Latching-Lid/1000505511
    
    

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

/u/jwinskowski please feel free to PM me at anytime for this. EDIT: if your tank is MATTE don't use products not designed for it! (Shampoo is fine for either)

TLDR rinse bucket and bucket with soap. use auto products. dont drop your MF cloths.


I'm not familiar with Guzzi's clearcoat so ill play towards the cautious side.


Personally I'd pick up a shampoo/conditioner and a basic wash mit thats microfiber made (attracts dirt better and wont mar your question)

(I can recommend 3D pink shampoo. cheap AND I love it)

next up a light compound (you can use meguiars ultimate compound. cheap inexpensive and hard to mess up) this brings out that POP in paint pretty easy to use with a hand applicator which are also cheap :)

next upppp paint polish. this is VERY subjective. I prefer mckees37 stuff but its more expensive than most like. I can also recommend meguiars ultimate polish. good and inexpensive :)

after wards you'll need a wax. meguiars ultimate liquid wax is a great starter and once again inexpensive. (I prefer trademark extender/policoat form mckees37) easy on easy off if you're taking you're time.

afterwards you can call it quits and bam you're done.

or keep going and seal your paint to keep that POP lasting. I HIGHLY recommend collinite 845 as its inexpensive as hell and STUPID easy to apply!!

also Mckees 37 SIO 2 ceramic coating is even easier but $.

then theres coatings. you can use something like Cquarts or even carpro....I personally juse use SIO2 from mckees37 currently. spray on wash off bam. not as effective but beyond stupid easy.


oh and also pick up some microfiber cloths of your choice. theres no right/wrong for them other than DONT DROP EM AND KEEP EM CLEAN.


links to products named

ultimate megs wax

ultimate polish megs

sio 2 coating 10% off ad warning


trademark extender wax spray

3D pink car soap/shampoo


collinite 845

ultimate compound megs

ultimate liquid wax -bigger AG carried

megs ult polish AG carried

Autogeek also price matches to a fair extent! and IF you're local you can pick up. :D


these microfibers are damn nice but $

I personally use these and they're lit. 16 pack and heavy duty enough to last a while

wash mitt I use


even NEW I can highly recommend clay baring your paint dis or the kit if you're new


oh and IF your brake pads literally ooze brake dust....this stuff takes time but takes care of the dust easily linky smells WAY better than carpro even at a lower concentration :p

/u/solitudechirs thanks for the tag

/u/CG_Ops dat wall o text

>Wash car using 2 bucket method, wash mitt. For soap I am using Meguiars Carnuba Wash

Yep, 2 bucket method and remember to use the right ratio of soap to water. I think that soap is 1oz --> 1 Gallon. I tend to use an old laundry cup and mark the different oz on that cup so that i know i have the right ratios.

>Scrub car with Nanoskin sponge, and a soapy mitt - or should I use ONR - what ratio.

Baggy test the paint but it most cases for a newbie there paint will need a clay/decon. IronX or TriX(Tar and Iron remover) is a nice thing to have but really is a luxury. In the case with what lubrication to use while you nanoskin, I like o just use my soapy water that is at the right ratio and should be clean due to the to bucket wash keeping junk out of the wash bucket. If your using ONR as clay lube the ratio 1:64.

>Rinse car with water

Yep using the flood method. The water should just sheet off and shouldn't leave much behind. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WAmb9DWdnFc

>Dry with ONR 1:16 ratio & Dry Me a River towell - is that a good ratio?

With ONR less is more in most cases. This will leave some behind. If i used ONR as a clay lube then the 1:64 is what i would be using. If i am mixing fresh i would be going 1:128. Reminder to pre-wet your towel wring it out.

>Wax - I was going to use Meguiar's G12718 NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 I am not sure about this one to be honest. My car is a daily driver, so I want something that will last a long time. Is there something else I should be using? Maybe the Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax instead? https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4/

The biggest thing for protection staying is the prepwork. The step alot of people tend to forget is using IPA wipedown after everything as this will give the surface the cleanest, and driest area for the protection to bond to.


The Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax is also Meguiar's Sealant M21. This should get you 3-4 months depending on where the car is kept(inside vs outside 24/7)

The Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax they pushed more for a beading looking because care enthused like that. I think if you have the budget I would get Jescars Powerlock and Collinate 845 look for these on autogeek,autopia-carcare, fav detailing site as they will tend to have deals better than amazon

I would watch https://youtu.be/34GKKyrFrFI?list=PLG_BGdABDC9vWAZVwdmLNAU7J7kwNmJGH and kind of follow it but depending on the level of effort you want to put in.

If your looking to get just one protection product I would get Collinate 845


Any protection truly lasting longer then 6 months is either on a car that isn't exposed to the elements or is a coating. Protection should be reapplied at regular intervals. My daily driver is black, 3 kids and sits outside 24/7 so my interval is 3 months.


Hope this helps and enjoy your detailing path.

Definitely check out /r/AutoDetailing where I learned my method.

The way I do it:

Equipment:

1. Optimum no rinse I use the green version (the one linked) that has wax, but there's also a blue one without wax. Either one is fine I just prefer this one.
   
   
2. Bucket. Any clean one will do.
   
   
3. A shit ton of microfiber towels. The Rag Company is a popular brand to go with. I just go with a pack from costco and they work fine for me.
   
   
4. Spray bottle. 1-2.
   
   
5. Isopropyl alcohol. Dilute it down so it's 10-20% in concentration. Put it in the spray bottle or use a cup/bucket.
   
   
6. Nanoskin or clay. I use nanoskin so I linked that. Otherwise just get some clay. Most people in /r/autodetailing say any brand of clay is usually fine. I use nanoskin because it's a bit quicker and I have a new car so it works fine. Some people seem to say that clay gets your car a bit cleaner, but it's not worth the time trade off for me especially since my car is still new-ish so still clean.
   
   
7. Opti-seal. I like using this because it's quick, easy and works great. Gives a good shine too.
   
   Washing:
   
   
8. Use the rinseless method. You'll find it in the wiki of autodetailing. To prep: dilute ONR down to the recommended amount in your bucket. Fill up spray bottle. Throw microfiber towels in the bucket in the rest of the solution. Ring out the towel so it's not sopping wet, but there's still solution. Fold the microfiber towels into four.
   
   
9. Work on only one car panel at a time. Spray the panel with the ONR. Wipe panel down firmly, but not really hard, with one side of your towel. Then turn to a different side of the towel. Do not re-use that side of your towel. Use a fresh side of the towel for every panel. Use a dry towel to wipe off that panel so there are no water streaks. Repeat until your car is washed. ONR works fine on glass too so you can just do your windows as well.
   
   Rinseless washing is great when your car is mildly to semi-dirty. This means if it's mostly just dust on your car this is great. Otherwise if it's caked with mud this won't work. You'll have to go somewhere to hose your car off with water first so it's not as dirty.
   
   Clay Bar/Nanoskin:
   
   Note: This is only necessary if there are actually micro-contaminants. I would do it on a new car regardless since it has been sitting on a lot. On a normal basis you only need to do when your car doesn't feel glass smooth after a wash. Usually no more than 1-2 times a year.
   
   
10. Because you can also use ONR as your clay lube I just pour out my bottle of ONR spray back into the bucket and pour in enough ONR until it gets to the concentration needed. ONR says 2oz per gallon of water. Fill your spray bottle back up with the new concentration.
    
    
11. Here you'll be working with small sections of a panel at a time. I suggest you just look up a youtube video on how to clay a car. Basically though you spray the section, clay/nanoskin the section until smooth, and wipe off the section with a dry towel. Repeat for your whole car. Note that you'll have to massage the clay or wash off your nanoskin every so often to get rid of those contaminants.
    
    Sealant/wax:
    
    After you're done with claying your paint is clean so you'll want to put wax/sealant on it to protect it. It'll make your car nice and shiny too.
    
    Start with an isopropyl alcohol wipe. What I do is dunk a towel in the alcohol solution and wipe down every panel and drying after it. You can also just fill another spray bottle with it and spray. This will get rid of oil/wax/sealant so the sealant goes directly on the paint. Then just apply the sealant/wax on following the instructions. With opti-seal you just spray and wipe. With some other items you'll need to apply and wait to cure and buff out any remaining wax/sealant.
    
    For wheels and tires I suggest you just check out the wiki on autodetailing. I just simply wipe off the tires with ONR but ONR isn't the best at getting oil. I'm too lazy though to worry about it too much as long as the wheels look clean it's fine with me.
    
    I'm lazy and do a rinseless wash 1-2 times (usually 1) a month. Some do it weekly. I put sealant on every 3-4 months or so. I've only clayed my current car once so far.
    
    

You have quite the garage going there, and a good list of car care items. I was keeping up with a family and 3 cars, so my extra detail time was never quite abundant over the last few years. I previously had an arsenal of products like you, but narrowed it down to 3 to simplify and ease my busy life. I really liked the Nu Finish Liquid Polish and then gravitated to the wash last to cover was the plastic, rubber, and leather protectant. I had a couple different products, but the NuVinyl did all, including leather, that armor-all (basic) does not. As mentioned, I just had to simplify for many reasons and this worked for me. It may not be the professional kit of choice, but 3 products help keep my 3 cars in great shape.

And as far as applying compounds, polishes, or waxes, I spent years doing it by hand until I gave Meguiar's DA Power System a shot. Costs more then by hand (initially), but it goes quicker and produces a better product. This is the only product I tried, I am sure there are plenty of other options out there. Good luck cleaning!

Amanda! Your bags look beautiful!!!!

I never worry about flaws as most reps actually mimic the same flaws as their authentic counterparts...and to be honest...the only 1:1 is the authentic, which I just do not think is worth the asking price. At $145 the flaws are so insignificant as not to matter and most can be fixed with a bottle of shiny (dull canvas) or a trip to the cobbler (cinch tab thingy) or a marker (red glue) and a little darkening boost (patina). To be quite frank, I love reps because they present a challenge and I am thoroughly enjoying finding solutions to these minor dilemmas...and employing them (and for research purposes of course). To me it's fun...go figure.

I so want a DA just to see and I think I may take the plunge, though I'll stick to the beige interior.

I am so tickled to hear someone say that they think their reps are "fantastic" and are not agonizing over every single detail. I am certain that you will enjoy your lovelies, and because you will, I doubt if anyone will ever guess they're reps. Love, love, love your review and your attitude, thank you so much for sharing love!

>What are some ways of preventing theft of the scooter? Does it involve some specialty lock or perhaps being specific about where I park?

I have a [Gorilla Alarm] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3QM4SS/ref=twister_B00WGCGQWQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) on my scoot but sometimes it goes off unexpectedly and it drains the battery quick if you don't ride your scooter often.

I use to use a U-Lock to attach to my wheel but I've almost rode off a couple of times with it still attached so I hardly use it.

You can get one of [disc brake locks] (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469235803&sr=8-1&keywords=disc+brake+lock) that attaches to your front brake disc and comes with a reminder strap that you attach to the handlebars so you don't ride off with it still attached.

But I highly suggest getting full coverage insurance if you don't have it already in case the scooter does get stolen. Scooters are so light that 2 people could lift it onto the back of a truck and take off. The money you get back from full coverage insurance is surprisingly fair, at least with State Farm.

>I live in Houston. The sun is pretty intense and I love the paint job on my scooter. Is there a way to protect the paint with products or is a simple scooter cover the solution?

This is a great question because if you don't protect the body, it will start fading on you.

You can either use a [paste wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05500-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TVW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+wax) or [liquid wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05750-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TX0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-2&keywords=mother%27s+wax) to give you the best protection. Remember to follow the instructions that come with the wax.

You can use a [spray wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05724-California-Gold-Spray/dp/B001MXX5D8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236261&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+spray+wax) which is the easiest to apply and remove but it doesn't offer the same kind of protection that a paste or liquid wax gives.

Btw, I only used Mother's as an example but most of the brands that you find at your local auto parts store should be fine. Also, make sure to always use a Microfiber towel when doing anything on the scooter's body. Microfiber towels scratch the body the least vs. any other kind of towel.

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

I would have taken more photos but I didn't set out with the intention of making a post; however, when I saw the results I knew I had to.

Like I said, this mini van only set me back $300. But just because it's a cheap turd doesn't mean you can't take some pride in it and at least put a ribbon on it.

Anyways, I'll add some more details left out of the post.

First I mixed up regular ole dish soap and water and grabbed some 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper, dunked it in the solution and let it soak while I taped off my headlights. I don't think you have to let it soak, but that's what I did. Once I finished taping off the lights, I started wet sanding and just redunked as needed for adequate lubrication.

Now I've read some posts on here about people saying it's easier to see when you're done sanding if you go in one direction for a certain grit and the opposite in another so you can see sanding lines. I didn't do that either. I just sanded it til I felt it was smooth and/or had been doing it for a couple minutes; up, down, left, right, circles. Whatever. It worked out for me.

Repeat exact same procedure for 2000 grit wet/dry sand paper.

Now, if you've never done this before you might start to get nervous, because at this stage your headlights look (somehow) even worse than when you started. Fret not my friend. Patience is a virtue.

Now I have a DA polisher, but these headlights are narrow. So I opted at just purchasing a generic named 3" backing plate, drill adapter and pad combo set off amazon. Some of the reviews said it wasn't the greatest. But that was fine by me. I just wanted them for this headlight. Those reviewers are wrong. I think they were thinking you could do an entire vehicle with these 3" pads. The pads and backing plate were high quality and for that price, even if they weren't I wouldn't have been all that upset. I highly recommend these.

I used the two flat top oranges pads for this project. First I used M105. Polished til it "flashed" then buffed it off with a microfiber towel. Switched to my other orange pad and polished with M205 following the same procedure.

Then I stood in awe of how great they came out. Did a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, and two coats of collinite 845 that I applied with some cheap microfiber applicators for future uv protection.

Then I went and excitedly rushed my girlfriend outside to see. She was impressed but decidedly less than me.

Also, while I was doing this, a man approached me and asked me how much I'd charge to do his car. I talked with him a bit, and informed him that for the price I would charge to do his one car he'd be better off doing some research, buying his own supplies and just learning a new skill. He thought about it and excitedly told me he already had a drill and that he decided he'd do it. He went on to say he was also going to do not just his car, but also his mom's car and his girlfriend's car. He wrote down everything I said! Haha,I hope his come out as well as mine!

Edit: formatting/spelling

This won't make it look perfect, but it will improve it a LOT.

First you need to gently clean it up best you can. I would use this stuff, but any polishing compound or liquid rubbing compound should work. Don't rub hard with this stuff, just light pressure your only trying to clean it up and give yourself a good surface for the touch up paint.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

Next get some touch up paint for you car, you can get your cars paint code from any Subaru dealer if you give them your VIN number. You can get the touch up paint from either a Subaru dealer, online, or someplace like Auto Zone.

When touching up the paint less is more, so try to use very little paint and multiple coats.

After the touch up paint has dried then use something like this and just keep polishing it and slowly it will begin to blend in better and better.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/

Again this isn't the best fix possible but is probably the most affordable fix for the quality you'll end up with if you do everything correctly.

First of all, here's a link with some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/DdDMX8f

I just bought this car two weekends ago and I'm stoked. I have washed it once (normal two-bucket method, no polish/wax). I'm going to plan for a more in-depth detail this coming or the following weekend, so I'm planning on making some purchases and wanted to run them by you guys! My general plan is do a foam cannon spray, rest a little bit, rinse, decontaminate w/ Griot's Speed Shine and Griot's Synthetic Clay.

After decontamination, in the long run, I would like to put a coat of CQuartz. Beforehand, obviously, I need to remove as many of the swirls/scratches as possible. I don't have any experience yet with compounding/polishing so do you think I should try it first before buying the CQuartz, or should I just go for it?

Here's what I'd like to buy:

1. Soap - Currently I have a bottle of some basic Meguiars cheap stuff that I was using on my previous old cars. After reading around some, I was going to either go with Gold Class or Optimum Car Wash. CarPro Reset is another option for me as I would like to apply CQuartz eventually so I want something without additives and waxes. Currently I have Optimum Car Wash in my cart, any reason I should go with anything else? I know everyone raves about ONR, but is that more for maintenance washes? Haven't looked into it much yet.
   
2. Snow foam - Chemical Guys Honeydew Snow Foam. I have a small bottle of this and I like the results, so I may buy a gallon unless I'm convinced otherwise!
   
3. Drying Towel - I have plenty of normal microfiber towels for touching up and interior work, but I don't have dedicated large drying towels. The Meguiar's X2000 drying towel was recommended a couple places on the sub and it seems like a good value; but I have heard Griot's is good as well. Any thoughts?
   
4. Polisher - Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher. From what I have read, this seems to be one of the best-rated entry-level polishers. I haven't done enough research yet to know what type of pads/liquids I will need based on my specific paint, so I'll save those decisions for another day. The car was mostly well taken care of but there are a couple etched spots from what I'm assuming was bird poop or sap. There are a couple pictures in the album of this. Other than that, there seem to be an average amount of "swirl" marks but I'll need to do more research to determine what level of liquid/pads I need. I took the photos in the morning so I didn't have a good light source to show the "swirls".
   
   I already have some good stuff for cleaning wheels and I've been using Griot's Interior Detailer for the interior and it seems to be doing a good enough job. The interior isn't very dirty so just light cleaning suffices.
   
   As for CQuartz prep, before I am more confident in the paint correction process, should I apply a wax after polishing, or will that just make it more of a pain in the ass to decontaminate the paint when I decide to apply CQuartz in the next month or so? FYI, I'm going to be reading the DA polishing guides on this sub before I buy anything related to that.
   
   Any comments or suggestions on things I have selected?
   
   Thanks!

honestly, i wouldn't get either of those. yeah they're both good, but you really don't need all of that.

what i use:

griot's garage clay

meguairs soap

mothers cleaner wax

nu finish

and of course a (or a couple) 5 gallon buckets with a grit guard , which is completely not necessary, but highly recommended by professional detailers. i don't use one, and my car comes out fine. and a good, soft wash mitt. either a good sponge or a wheel brush for your wheels would be needed as well.

my once a year routine is as follows:

wash, claybar, nu polish, cleaner wax

usually wash every 2 weeks or so, and rewax every 6 weeks or so. if i did a bunch of off roading and the paint is gritty i'll clay as needed, but usually it's once a year.

also head over to /r/autodetailing for a lot of tips. beware though that they use a lot of very high end products, and circle jerk over polishing and getting perfect reflections. if all you're looking to do is keeping your paint in good condition, then what i do is just fine. if you're interested in keeping your paint better than factory, follow them.

random orbital machines dont really speed up the process very much.

There are 3 kinds of machines for polishing:

• Random Orbital. Weakest action but also pretty harmless.
  
• Dual Action (combines a small orbital action with medium speed rotations) - Best for beginners
  
• Rotary - fastest and most aggressive. Easy to burn through a finish.
  
  I have used a 10 inch random orbital like the HF one and it was way too slow to accomplish what you need.
  
  By the way you dont need 3 more coats of wax. As mentioned what you need is a good polish.
  
  Polishing and older car will take time but you need a medium cut cleaner, a lighter cut swirl remover, and then a fine cut mirror finisher.
  
  I use the meguiars range of products like this:
  http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Professional-Glaze-liquid/dp/B0002UQAM0/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1371516134&sr=8-18&keywords=maguires+polish
  
  Also lots of tutorials and information on youtube on the autogeek channel. they also have an online store although a lot of the stuff they sell is expensive.
  
  If your car is this old and you go to this much trouble, you might look into headlight polishing too. Also glass sometimes needs a good polish.
  
  and for what its worth I just apply wax by hand.

DON'T USE A PRESSURE WASHER!!!!

But before you clean your bike, go ahead and clean and lube your chain FIRST. Then, give the bike a quick spin for a few miles. That way any excess chain lube doesn't splatter all over your fresh detail job.

Wait for your bike to cool down (20-30 minutes on a 70 degree day)

Then just get a bucket of soapy water, and a sponge or clean soft rag and wipe your bike down. You can pretty much use that for every surface, but start with the painted bits, then move to things like the engine and wheels. After that I usually just wipe it down with another clean rag and some fresh clean water. Then I dry the bike with a chamois. After that I use a product called SC1 to give it that show room sparkle. Follow the directions on the can. It's pretty much just spray the crap all over and let it sit for a few minutes and then wipe it off with a soft clean dry rag.

It's a lot more involved than going to the drive through car wash, but your baby is worth it!

>Best seat covers?

Get permaplate option, this will cover external and interior. Enjoy the seats without seat covers, I did put a seat cover so the baby car seat was on the cover.

>Best dash cams?

I really want this dash cam Blackvue DR590, saving up for one.

>Charging cable ok in weather?

I have been doing research on Chargepoint level 2 home charger. Its weather proof and if you install the 220v 32A version you can charge your car in 2 hours.

>Battery efficiency on the highway?

I only had my Prius Prime for a week now, hybrid works well. Drive in B mode and plan out your trips so you can charge at your destination. For example, we started to go to Target because they have a Chargepoint station. We shop for about 2 hours and by the time we get back to the car is fully charged. We can do all of our shopping using EV only.

>Toyota service centers only?

I got the extended maintenance plan so yes for me only Toyota service.

>Get that extended warranty or no?

I got the 7 year extended maintenance because I already know how much the dealer ship will charge for normal maintenance. I just want to have the peace of mind knowing everything is covered and did not want to deal is any issues. Plus if you get it during purchase I believe its at a bigger discount. Because I sign up for it the dealer ship gave me LoJack for free and 72 month financing 0 APR.

>Any reassurance that I made the right choice not waiting for the 2018?

I was thinking the something, at the moment you have a big advantage because they are trying to sell off the rest of the 2017 to make room for the 2018 models. I want to say you have more power to haggle, for example I was able to get 72 month 0 APR financing, free LoJack and $3000 off the asking price because I mention the local special and because I was prior military.

Additional accessories:
Black License Plate Frame
Auto Document Case
Neck Pillow
No Rinse Wash & Wax

Congratulation on the new car!

I've done everything from the exact interval as specified by the service manual, to maybe not lubing a chain for a whole year on one bike a long time ago.

My experience has been that you SHOULD keep your chain lubed, but also, a high quality chain like a DID x-ring will put up with an amazing amount of use even if you push the interval farther than suggested.

The number one most important point in this discussion, IMVHO, is that you inspect your chain (and sprockets!) frequently and with a careful eye. If you do this often, you should be able to catch any issues developing with your chain before they become a chain failure.

If you see visible rust, its time for a hardcore cleaning and re-lube. I like kerosene and a chain brush for cleaning, and a wax based spray lube for relubrication. A scottoiler is a great addition to any bike as long as you don't mind doing the install and keeping an eye on it to ensure it is dripping at the correct rate (and to refill it before it runs dry).

Been looking to detail my car, and while I am still getting my stuff along with trying to find the time to do it.. I've started to come up with a couple of questions.

1. Is it safe to use a magic eraser on the exterior / interior of my windshield + other glass on the car? Or would getting a drill adapter to polish the glass be a better option? Is there anything I can use to seal and protect the glass after cleaning it?
   
   The windshield has it's fair share of micro pitting and surface knicks (not cracks). And since a magic eraser acts as a very fine sandpaper I was thinking that it could possibly help to smooth out some of the pitting and knicks just to make these spots less noticeable when light hits it at certain angles.
   
   ​
   
   

2. What is the best product / way to darken the pillars on my doors and seal them?
   
   Currently they are not that faded, but id like to keep them up before they get to that point.
   
   ​
   
   
3. When I do detail the car I am planning to polish the car with Meguiar's M20508 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish then use Meguiar's G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax to protect it. What sort of pads or applicators do I need to apply this stuff?
   
   I have microfiber towels for cleaning and buffing but not sure what type of applicator pads to use.
   
   ​
   
   Also, any recommendations on a good / reliable, but repetitively inexpensive shopvac?
   Not looking for one with a bag or anything, just something for cleaning out the interior as those dam gas station vacuums are not worth 2$ for 4 minutes when you cant even get under the seats..
   
   ​
   
   Thank you for any and all feedback!

You want to use a cutting compound, then a polisher, then a wax and polisher mix, then a wax. It can be done by hand but it'll be tedious work, a polisher is recommended. you can get a 6 inch polisher on Amazon for cheap

[Cutting compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B001O7PNW8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2X258V2JG0MWL&keywords=cutting+compound&qid=1570408658&sprefix=cutting+compound%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-3)

[Polisher compound] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2GPHAWV9X86T2&keywords=polishing+compound&qid=1570408671&sprefix=polish%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-5)

[Wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-Polishing-Compound-Scratch/dp/B0009JKGJ2/ref=sr_1_7?crid=1QLIV2CDVRQM8&keywords=wax+compound+for+cars&qid=1570408763&sprefix=wax+compo%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-7)

[Orbital Polisher] (https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_5?crid=PM4UWG6DWJ5C&keywords=polisher+machine+for+car&qid=1570408680&sprefix=polisher%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-5)

I also recommend you completely clean the spot with a clay bar as well so you don't scratch the paint more with crud that's already imbedded in the paint.

[Clay bar] (https://www.amazon.com/IPELY-Detailing-Magic-Cleaner-Clean/dp/B0753FSQN6?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5)

Good luck!

1. Buy a gallon of water from your grocery store, bring a bucket, ONR, and the softest towels you own and you can do an ONR wash in the parking lot.
   
2. I think your LSP should be a wax and a detail spray. I LOVE Meguiar's D156. It adds a nice slickness to the paint, smells like fresh laundry, and is great for that finished look. If you want to save money its the same thing as Meguiar's Quik spray wax, just the professional version.
   
3. Oh boy! If you're going to track your car friday and then enter it to the clean car on saturday, you're going to need a full wash. Is your car a dark or light color? that will determine the direction to go.

If you like the Quik Detailer then check out their Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax. Another user on here gave me a tip to try using the X-Press in place of the QD so I'm just passing it on. Turned out to be the best last-step product I've ever used, hands down. I just spray it on and wipe off with a fresh microfiber after I dry my car and it leaves a nice wet looking mirror finish that beads water like a fresh wax. Meguiars says it renews your wax/sealant every time you use it so that makes sense. The final result is more solid and glassy (a lot like a paint sealant) instead of almost sticky or gooey like the QD can get sometimes.

A little goes a long way too. I filled up a 16oz spray bottle like 4 months ago it's probably still 3/4 full. At this rate the gallon container is going to last a few years.

I wrote a small guide on machine polishing, you can find it here:

[Guide] The Getting Started into DA Polishing

I really like my Lake Country pads, but I've heard good things about other brands like Hex Logic. If you can get LC pads, pick up Orange(compounding), white(polishing), black(waxing).

For a compound, I always suggest
Meguiar's M105/Meguiars M205.

Always try the least aggressive method first, so polish before compound, then move to compounding if you were unsuccessful with just polishing.

I like Collinite 845 for wax, but there are plenty different brands out there to try out.

A Porter Cable is a good polisher, and it will definitely save you time while detailing.

Definitely looking into this. Is the Pinnacle brand better than Meguiar's version? Pinnacle requires an additional shipping cost on Amazon, but Meguiar's doesn't, so I'm kind of leaning that way.

However, it looks like the Meguiar's doesn't have carnauba wax in it. Is that a big deal if I have the Quik Detailing Spray and the Quik Wax spray bottles? If it is a big enough deal, I don't mind shopping locally and getting the Pinnacle. I had some Amazon GCs, but I can spend that on something else down the road.

I literally bought a 36 pack of Amazon branded microfiber cloths that had good reviews, so I'll be looking into the rag company's products once I burn through the Amazon. Too late to send it back at this point without being killed on shipping, lol.

I've been using Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax for the longest time. Can be found on Amazon, or at Target/Walmart. Basically, anywhere that sells car accessories/parts.

Do note that spray waxes are best applied often. They do not last anywhere near as long as traditional waxes/sealants do. The main advantage is that spray waxes are quick and easy to apply and can be done in minutes, rather than an hour (or more).

Alternatively, consider waterless wax + wax solutions. Can help you keep your car clean in between your regular washes. Especially helps to keep your front bumper and hood clean from debris you accumulate daily.

Here's all the stuff I use :)

• Cobra Guzzler HD Waffle Weave Drying Towel 16 x 24 inches http://www.autogeek.net/cobra-guzzler-hd-towel.html (this is a must-have)
  
• Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Wax http://www.autogeek.net/pisisepawax.html (by far my favorite wax for my CW GTI)
  
• Chemical Guys Silk Shine http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD10916-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q (works great as a tire dressing and to shine up the plastics)
  
• Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Stoner-92196-6PK-Invisible-Glass-Cleaner/dp/B00BUL1KRK
  
• Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPSW7C/ (this is an amazing polish...)
  
• Viking Blue Microfiber Wax Applicator http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ (cheap and they work well, even after throwing them in the wash after several times)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ (I use this for the quick wax jobs, like inside the trunk hood/trunk/door.)
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Detailer http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RXNLK6/ (I use it for basically everything outside the car to touch up. I even clean the inside of the rims and exhaust tips with it)
  
• Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/ (better than Armor All IMHO and it works well. Doesn't leave any nasty grease/shiny spots)
  
• Griot's Garage Micro Fiber Wheel Wand http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YMRIC8/ (love these)
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UT3S6Q/ (the chemical smell is harsh, but it works wonders!)
  
• Eurow Microfiber Towels 16in x 16in 36-Pack http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031B4YU2/ (some cheap microfibers and they hold up pretty well. I like the fact that they're yellow so you know when you should throw one out.)
  

My parents' neighbor has been watching as I borrow Mom and Dad's hose and he recently asked if I could take on his car and I was happy to oblige! Overall, the exterior was in okay shape - couple bugs, a few spots of tree sap and bird poo, as well as just a good amount of dirt and mud tucked in some spaces. I gave the car a two bucket wash, clay, Iron X treatment, Iron X, clay and topped it off with a sealant. Thanks for pointing out that I listed my procedure out of order, /u/Deadfable! Here's the deets:

Products Used:

• Meguiar's Gold Class Shampoo
  
• Optimum No Rinse (Quick Detailer dilution for claying)
  
• CarPro's Iron X for decontamination
  
• Nanoskin AutoScrub Fine Grade Sponge
  
• Meguiar's D101 (4:1 on tires, wheel wells - 10:1 on the interior)
  
• Aerospace 303 Protectant for interior dressing
  
• Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
• Harbor Freight DA Polisher w/ Buff & Shine 5.5" red pad
  
• Wheel Woolies
  
• Solo Horton Brushes
  
• Other assorted brushes
  
• Microfiber towels from The Rag Company
  

• 0000 Steel Wool from Home Depot (used with QD for the exhaust tips)
  

• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel applied via foam block
  
• Stoner's Invisible Glass
  
  Overall a fun job! Got rewarded with a hearty lunch of sausage and peppers on Italian bread. Happy detailer!!

For things like wiping down dust / pollen, it's best never to touch your car when you could do a full wash. I had a black camry and I would wipe it down daily from all the pollen, and it became scratched up within a month... so I had to buy more polishing gear (and now it's 10 years later and I run a detailing company). So if your car gets dusty, wait until you can do a proper wash. Don't cut corners as it will result in swirls.

Really the kit you keep in your car should be more for fixing bird poop emergencies. You'll see why after you have to use your nice microfiber to clean up fresh bird shit. Bottle of water and microfibers in a tupperware. keep a bottle of spray wax for following up


I go through a lot of spray wax on my blue car. I save all my used spray bottles (spray wax, glass cleaner, etc) and started refilling it from a gallon-size detailing supplies, saves me money as I like to detail my car often and go through a lot of product: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497589491&sr=8-1&keywords=express%2Bspray%2Bwax&th=1

Meguiar's last-touch is a good choice too: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497589657&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+last+touch

certainly.

1. wash bike from to to bottom, after that use a clay bar on the paint! cant stress that enough. It removes all the embedded contaminants that the wash doesn't remove.https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Smooth-Surface-Clay-Kit/dp/B00063X7KG
   
   
2. grab your buffing wheel (witch I used) or apply by hand some compound this is what I used https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?th=1 use medium pressure with this, its super easy to put on and off. Just follow the instructions.
   
   
3. after your done compounding the paint apply a polish, let it dry to a haze and wipe off. I used something like this https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-GAP-106-16-Polish-Sealant/dp/B004LPAP2I/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936548&sr=1-10&keywords=car+polish
   
   
4. and final step, apply your wax to protect all your hard work, same application as the polish https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486936678&sr=1-4&keywords=car+wax
   
   
5. also clay bar your wheels if they have a clear coat on them then apply a wax, don't get too crazy on them, but get the protection on so they stay shiny
   
   
6. in between washings/ waxings use a quick detail spray
   
   also see r/AutoDetailing for the noob questions/ info. Its a huge help. so is Youtube! hope that points you in the right direction!
   

Meguiars: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G190526-Hybrid-Ceramic-Wax/dp/B06WVQ6MVR

Mothers: https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-01024-Ceramic-Spray-Coating/dp/B07K46RD7Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mothers+cmx+ceramic&qid=1555014993&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

McKees: https://www.amazon.com/McKees-37-MK37-260-Coating-Enhanced/dp/B074WPDR4W/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=mckees&qid=1555015022&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

I don't have Meguiars. Just the Mothers and McKees and they're both spectacular in my experience so far. But too short to tell how long they both hold up long term. I was a bit peeved when I went to go use McKees again and the spray nozzle got clogged with hardened product, but on the flip side, I was really impressed that it really does harden quite well, so I'm pretty confident it will last a long time. Plus is pretty safe/easy to use.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

I don't have a stake in this game. I do think it's interesting that the company directly refutes your assertion:

WD-40 and Bikes

Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product should not be used on bike chains.

Fact: While WD-40 Multi-Use Product it is not a grease, it is
formulated with strong lubricating oils and other ingredients,
and is a terrific product to use for bike maintenance. It does
not attract dirt or moisture to metal surfaces – just be sure to
wipe off any excess WD-40 Multi-Use Product before riding.

For long-term lubrication and other specialized bicycle
maintenance needs, check out WD-40® BIKE. Developed specifically
for cyclists and mechanics, this high-performance line of bicycle care
products is sure to become a mainstay in the toolboxes of bike
mechanics for decades.

I also think it's weird that after saying it's fine to use on bike chains, assuming you wipe off excess, they've got something that's specifically designed for bikes - which either was marketed because it's actually better for bicycling purposes, or was released due to bike shops instructing people not to use it for this purpose.

Personally, I prefer wax-based chain products on my (motor)bike. If wax-based isn't handy, multi-use teflon'll do.

There are guys that use WD-40 on their motorcycle chains exclusively, and swear by it.

I was also a beginner at the beginning of the year. I went out and bought [Meguiars 105] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496750162&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+105), and [Meguiars 205] (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B003LMJP4Q/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003LMJP4Q&pd_rd_r=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG&pd_rd_w=WZ6u4&pd_rd_wg=LD9ed&psc=1&refRID=YK6JBJ416NKY6325PPQG), a [chicago electric DA from harbor freight] (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-Amp-Heavy-Duty-Dual-Action-Variable-Speed-Polisher-62862.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODkwMjE0MTgiLCJza3UiOiI2Mjg2MiIsImlzIjoiNDkuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiMTE0NDYifQ%3D%3D%0D%0A), and ordered [orange and white hex logic pads from amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-BUFX-102-HEX5-Hex-Logic-Medium-Heavy/dp/B0040MI9H0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496750285&sr=1-1&keywords=hex+logic+pads). This will be a good start. Get these things, should cost between 120 and 150 for all of it depending on where you buy, and that DA goes on sale quite often, looks like it's currently down to 49.99, so now would be the time to buy. I started off doing my Formula and then did my Sierra, and now have had a few other people come to me for correction and have a pretty good grasp on what I'm doing.

1. Watch tutorials by Junkman2000 on youtube.
   
2. Use the right size pads for your backing plate. The DA listed above comes with a 6" flimsy backing plate, and you should replace it with a 5" so it is smaller and easier to work with. Mark your backing plate as well, so if you push too hard, you'll see it stop spinning. Good for figuring out how much force you SHOULD be using.
   
3. Take your time, and work at it slowly, you will have results.

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

Looks like a pretty good scratch, mostly paint transfer but it may have scratched through the base coat. You can minimize it by polishing it out. Use a rubbing compound and rent or buy a machine. You can also do it by hand but a machine is better for paint correction. Or alternatively you can have some detailer come out and do it for you.

A good retail polishing compound is meguiars compound or 3m. They all come in different grades of abrasiveness.

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18116-Clear-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154
Look at the first review, it shows you a similar situation.

It's easy to get caught up in all of the information on the internet about detailing. My advice would be to keep it simple. The goal is to keep it clean and prevent swirl marks. Go check out AMMO NYC on YouTube and watch some of Larrys videos. 90% of detailing is a simple concept, prevent dirt or grit from being rubbed again your paint. Foam cannons, 2 bucket washes, air drying, etc. the purpose for all of this is to get as much dirt off without rubbing it into your paint. I bet most of the guys on this sub could achieve great results using the cheapest Walmart products because many have a good understanding of decontamination and technique. The reason we all cringe when we see automatic washes, brushes at self serve washes, squeegees on paint is because it goes again the basic principal of don't rub shit into your paint.

Once you get this principle down you can venture into the money pit that is auto detailing products to achieve even better results.

One thing I would add to your cart is Megs D156, it has a ton of uses and works great as a drying aid.

Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_2vROybTQWAZC2

WOW. That's a savings of $30. Thank-you.

This will complement the Meguiar's quick detailer I already have.

I've bought stuff off eBay before, but never Amazon. Am I buying from Amazon (store) or an individual?

EDIT: OMG. I've made a huge mistake Watch from 1:50 -2:00.

I've actually waxed my car atleast 3-4 times before the end of last year. Got my car painted (Pearl White) in summer of 2011.

EDIT 2: What is the difference: 7, 20 and 21

EDIT 3: Please note I have a Pearl White car.

EDIT 4: Haha sorry bud. I just realized how frustrating it must be trying to explain it someone inexperienced like me. I thank you for your patience.

yep i use a rotary buffer to buff, then [NuFinish] (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1408709206&sr=1-1&keywords=nu+finish) to polish. I'm sure any good polish will work, but that's what i use. and i messed up my comment above. You buff, THEN polish.

Also, if you don't have a spray gun, you can use a 2k bomb clear can not be found in stores. it's does better than a normal spray can of clear coat. a normal spray can probably wouldn't look too bad, but the 2k stuff will do better. the 2k can has a hardener that makes the lens much more UV resistant to fading. Since you seem like you are going to try this: let the clear coats sit and dry a day, then run that over with a 2k sandpaper before you buff then polish it.

• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash
  
• Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0
  
• Simple green (for the wheels)
  
  Always use a wash mitt (do not use a sponge), dry with a chamois, and always work in the shade. I also use the 2 bucket method with grit guards. Basic vid here (there are much better ones out there but it's a pretty easy method to grasp)
  
  Hope this helps!

Unless you can bang out that from the back there's no hope to straighten it with home tools. It can be done from the outside with a stud welder + puller (video) but this is something best left to pros. It's much easier to replace the door for ~$200-500 at a junk yard, search car-part.com -- thats what my insurance did for a similar issue, came out to almost a thousand bucks at the body shop when you add the paint and labor on. But if you do it yourself you might be able to just get one in the right color and not paint it.

If you just want to fix the paint, just do the touch up. Call your dealer to get a small jar in the right color. You can fix the other less deep scratches with polish (heavy cut, light cut).

Also check this channel out if you are interested in how professionals do it: https://www.youtube.com/user/tussik01/videos

I'm fairly new, myself. I've driven clunkers most of my life. Spent about five years downtown where I didn't have a car. Now I'm back in suburbia, so I've got a brand new GTI, and it's the first one I've ever cared to take good care of. Here's what I started with:

• Meguiar's D101 APC - the D103 APC+ has apparently been discontinued.
  
• Two Chemical Guys detailing bucket kits, which each have a bucket, lid, grit guard, 16oz citrus wash, and some washing pad thing I didn't really want.
  
• Two-pack of Rag Company Dry Me a River towels
  
• Five-pack of Rag Company detailing towels
  
• Bottle of Stoner Invisible Glass
  
• Two-pack of Griot's Garage microfiber wash mitts
  
• A Nanoskin wash mitt
  
• 32oz Optimum No Rinse Wash and Wax - for use as a quick detailer and easy maintenance washing.
  
• Lexol leather care kit
  
• Thee-pack of spray bottles
  
• A microfiber window towel
  
• A cheap electric blower
  
• 16oz Chemical Guys Jetseal
  
• Microfiber applicators
  
  I should have picked up some of Chemical Guys' citrus wash and clear, too, to help deal with a winter's worth of grime left by terrible touchless car washes. I've also got a tire brush, hand vacuum, and some assorted cheap microfiber towels around already.
  
  Your kit looks a lot more cost-effective, though. Throw in some cheap buckets, grit guards, wash mitts, and drying towel, and an extra stack of cheap microfibers and you're still under $100 for practically everything you would need for a proper two-bucket wash and wax.

Only my second time doing it, so I'm no expert.

I bought the Mequires clay kit.

Washed the car thoroughly.

Dried with a chamois.

Started with the roof because it's the hardest part, it had tree sap and would require additional work, and I'm putting a roof rack on soon.

You want to do this in the shade for many reasons, but the biggest reason is you want the panels cool so the spray solution stays on the panel longer. It's a lubricant of sorts so the clay slides easier.

Work the clay over the entire panel, spraying more solution as needed. I recommend doing small sections at a time.

Periodically wipe the section down with the supplied microfiber cloth and inspect your work. You should feel an obvious difference between a clayed area and an untouched area.

Once you've completed the job, apply wax so the paint is protected. I have always used carnauba paste waxes so I stuck with Meguiar's Gold Class. Paste is more difficult to apply but I feel I get better application than liquid.

I also mask off the edges of the plastic and trim because wax is a PITA to remove from them. And I can be a little sloppy with the application.

I'll try and get some before and after close-up pictures when I do another panel.

It's pretty much the same stuff as Ultimate Quick Wax, just in bulk packaging.

I'm a fan. I don't really think it's the best but it's very good and inexpensive. Optimum spray wax is very good as well, but it's pricier.

I just looked it up since I'm not familiar with it. I much prefer the paste type wax than liquid spray. The Car Guys Hybrid Wax description shows it's safe for windows too. A real wax should never be put on windows. If it's safe for windows, then it's not really a good barrier since it can be wiped off too easy and the protection layer is extremely thin.

Try using a real paste wax. I've personally used either Mothers or Meguires paste wax with great results. Stay away from combo pastes (cleaner wax). If your car needs a good cleaning (paint is rough when you touch it), use a clay bar before waxing.

I agree with /u/Pinkman2012. Don't get the Eagle One stuff though. I've used it in the past, and at least for me, it was weirdly hard to remove. I REALLY like D156. That stuff is fantastic. Save some money and get the gallon. Once you use it once, you'll use it a LOT because of how great it is.

http://amzn.com/B005JPJMI2

Meguair’s new Hybrid Ceramic Wax is pretty awesome, cheap, and readily available. I think you’ll dig it.

Meguiar's G190526 Hybrid Ceramic Wax, 26 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVQ6MVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_TVdxCbTKAMTDF

I tried it on one vehicle, and Adams new Ceramic Spray Coating on another. Don’t know about longevity yet, but the Meguair’s seems better at first impression. Better gloss and hydrophobicity. Easier to apply also, though Adams Ceramic isn’t difficult by any means.

I've yet to use it. I have a bottle waiting to try but I've had a few ppl tell me about it. I actually used to use Meguiars D156 as a drying aide everytime I washed & it just didn't feel like it did anything. I'm sure it did, but I never got the feeling it was adding any protection or longevity to my wax job.

Maybe someone else will chime in but it seems like some ppl are using these ceramic sprays as their only form of wax/protection. So to me if that's the case then it should definitely be an added benefit to apply over top of Collinite.

Look up some vids on YouTube. There are plenty.

Only hand wash, all the time, lovingly, with microfiber everything. It's going to be your new hobby, and on a car this size, takes less time than you would think to do it right.

Here is my amazon list, a lot of stuff has subscribe and save deals, everything Chemical Guys has been top notch.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-10&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/303-30520-Convertible-Fabric-Cleaning/dp/B000A8JNF0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226066&sr=8-1&keywords=303+aerospace+protectant+convertible

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_506_12-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B00A8MZ7IA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-CWS_301-Citrus-Concentrated/dp/B004K9KETY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225930&sr=8-6&keywords=chemical+guys

http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465225985&sr=8-1&keywords=collinite+insulator+wax OR http://www.amazon.com/Collinite-No-Super-Doublecoat-Auto/dp/B000AP8DZY/ref=pd_sbs_263_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Nde%2B7iakL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0KRY8VA4QS2RZE3XG1R5

http://www.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226014&sr=8-2&keywords=microfiber+applicator

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226032&sr=8-3&keywords=chemical+guys+tire+shine

http://www.amazon.com/Mothers-155700-Wheel-Brush/dp/B001GJ3DZS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465226178&sr=8-1&keywords=tire+brush

I use Meguiar's gold class. Any Caranuba wax is high quality, but that is the one I prefer and have found to be a very good price point.

Waxing is relatively straightforward. You will need a lot of soft shammy towels to buff the wax in and remove excess. It'll say on the can something similar to this: take the pad inside the wax can and buff the wax into the car in circular motions. Take a shammy towel and buff the wax using the same circular motions and removing excess. Flip to the dry side of the shammy towel and wipe the remaining excess away. Do that one small section at a time (for instance, I do one door at a time, or half of the hood).

Happy waxing! It'll make the car like you've never seen it before.

If you're using the quik wax, you might as well just go get a gallon of Meguiars Synthetic Express Spray Wax. It's a great quick wax, drying aid, door jamb wipe, and you can use it on plastic and rubber without worry as well. Google some videos. I think Auto Fetish has some vids about how useful it can be for off-label uses.

Meguiar's D15601 Synthetic X-Press Spray Wax - 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005JPJMI2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z0Uzzb9KMWRYJ

And to your original question-yeah, spray waxes are good for a finishing shine and a bit of temporary protection.

There pricing is very good, especially on gear with the return policy you receive. Part pricing is still good, especially if you make the free shipping on the smaller moto-specific items like chain lube, etc. Beats Amazon's price by several $$.

Maxima Chain Wax

Amazon - $14

RevZilla - $11.50

Not to mention I have to pay tax on items sold by Amazon which really sours the deal.

Every product you bought you returned? Every product was $50-$100 less when you bought it somewhere else? Why did you keep buying from RevZilla and keep returning their items? Why didn't you do research before you bought it?

Am I on the right track? I am currently looking for all the products I need to completely detail my car. I know there is no way I could purchase all of these at once, so I am planning on purchasing the major ones first and adding the others over time. I have spent almost two weeks researching on everything I need to do. There is so much information and so many opinions that it is hard to find a definitive answer on what I need.

> Wheel

Wheel soap:

• Meguiar's Non-Acid Wheel & Tire Cleaner D143
  
  Wheel cleaner:
  
  
• Sonax Wheel Cleaner Plus
  
  Tire dressing:
  
  
• Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel
  
  Wheel wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Paint
  
  Paint soap:
  
  
• Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner
  
  Paint soap addition:
  
  
• Optimum No Rinse Wash & Shine
  
  Leaf blower:
  
  
• Worx Turbine WG520
  
  Clay bar:
  
  
• YGDZ Auto Detailing Magic Claybar
  
  Dual action polisher:
  
  
• Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher from Harbor Freight
  
  Backing plate:
  
  
• Astro 5" PU Velcro Backing Pad
  
  Pad:
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Orange Polishing Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS White Smart Pad
  
  
• Lake Country 5.5" CCS Black Finessing Pad
  
  Compound:
  
  
• Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
  
  Polish:
  
  
• Meguiar's M205 Mirror Glaze Ultra Finishing Polish
  
  Sealant/wax:
  
  
• Collinite Liquid Insulator Wax #845
  
  > Interior
  
  Carpet cleaner:
  
  
• Adam's Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner
  
  Dashboard cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather cleaner:
  
  
• Nextzett Cockpit Premium or Meguiar's Ultimate Interior Detailer
  
  Leather conditioner:
  
  
• Lexol Leather Deep Conditioner
  
  Glass cleaner:
  
  
• Rain-X Glass Cleaner
  
  There are a bunch of other tools not listed here, but the ones listed above are the areas I am most concerned about.
  
  > Other Concerns
  
  I am still anxious about spraying water in my engine bay, so I decided to use a spray bottle with soap and water and a microfiber towel to wipe down the engine bay while it is still decently clean. Can I use diluted Meguiar's D143 or will I have to purchase Meguiar's D101 instead? Can the Optimum Tire Gel be used on the black plastics of the engine bay, as well as the other black trims of my car?
  
  I want to protect my interior, in addition to cleaning it. I am very confused on what product I need to use to protect my dashboard from the sun. The same goes for the leather seats, where the creases are forming. I have been using a conditioner (although I am unsure of the exact name) to slow down the crease formation. Should I use the same product for both the dashboard and leather seats (with Lexol Conditioner on top of that)? I have heard of Leatherique Leather Rejuvenator/Prestine Clean, but I am unsure of when I should use that.

The community here will tell you to throw that Turtle Wax in the trash and get something else. People seem to like this stuff for an OTC product, although I've never personally used it. Make sure you're doing your best to get everything off the paint\clear coat before you apply a wax. This means a nanoskin wash or clay bar. Personally I'd go with Collinite 845 or another sealant type. General rule of applying a wax is to work in lines, not circles (this helps reduce swirl marks). Let it dry to a haze and buff with a high pile MF towel that you precondition with a little spray wax\quick detailer to add some lubrication. Smile as you run your finger across that smooth finish and crack open a cold one :)

I use Blackfire spray wax, only because I got it in their full paint correction kit, but I bet Meguiars will have one. Its pretty unanimous that Meguiars has good products for the home detailer. Link: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2

Hmm yea those soaps dont seem to be wax stripping.

You can do the ceramic coating yourself for $100 if you have the time, its fairly easy to do just have to follow the instructions. I myself am about to do a coating in preparation for the Northern winter.
A lot of people use C2V3 or CQuartz as their go to.

A few simple ones: No eating in the car. No Drinking in the car. No smoking in the car. Empty all clutter from the car when you leave, everytime.

As far as waxing goes, it depends on the wax you use and where you live. The closer to the equator you live the more you should wax. If you live near salt water you should wash more frequently. I have have good luck with a product called Nu Finish. I apply it about every 4 months, but I live in South Florida. Also, get an orbital buffer. They are cheap and save a LOT of elbow grease when buffing.

Armor-all or another plastic protectant is a must on the interior. Rain-X is nice too but not needed for actual care.

Thanks. Sounds like it's not going to damage the car, so it's definitely worth trying. FYI, both ONR and Aero do, in fact, claim to be wax. So it's good to know that they, in fact, are not.

i usually find products at auto stores to be really expensive. If you buy in bulk or concentrated sizes, like meguiars gallon sized products, they're far more cost effective. I use amazon to buy all my supplies, everything from microfibers to waxes are just way cheaper. Getting all the detailing supplies the first time is expensive, but they last a long time, one bottle of wax has lasted me for two years or longer. Some things are definitely worth buying in concentrate the first time around if you can afford it, like detail spray/clay lube: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496487884&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+d155

that will make two whole gallons of quick detailing spray for $24, as opposed to $6 for a small bottle at a store.

I believe boards are usually finished with an increasingly fine series of sandings, a couple coats of varnish, and then carnuba wax. I heard the Mayday boards are topped with a wood veneer that is then waxed. I'm not sure if you would want to go back and varnish the veneer, but you can definitely get some quality wax and go to town. This wax is pretty highly regarded.

Edit: Not sure why the link formatting isn't working. C'est la vie. And I figured it out.

Opinion: I think this at 1/4 of the price will do almost an identical job to the ammo http://www.amazon.com/S100-13700W-Carnauba-Paste-Wax/dp/B000GZQP08/

These carnauba waxes will not last long... especially in heat.

-

Instead of the gold, go with the ultimate like the other dude said, AMAZING wax for the price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCM9H4/

This stuff will last a long time. great beading.

If anyone has lots of scratches/defects in their paint, here are a couple steps that really make a huge difference for a total of ~$25:

• Wash car with Meguiar's Gold Car Wash ($7)
  
• Apply Meguiar's Ultimate Compound ($14) which will clean and polish your paint job and remove scratches/oxidation.
  
• Wax paint with Turtle Wax ($6) to get a clean shine and protection against the elements
  
• Buy some Mother's Back-to-Black Plastic & Trim Restorer ($8) and use to restore plastic trim to something closer to its original condition.

The glaze I use is very easy to apply. You literally just put it onto a microfiber cloth or something, rub it on the car, and then rub it off, then wax. Very simple and definitely worth the results if you have a dark car. And it doesn't leave any white spots like wax does if you miss a spot. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Show-Car/dp/B0002UQAM0

Just did a hand-wash with microfiber towels, wiped the car dry, and then used a product called Nu Finish for the wax. It's like 10 dollars a bottle and is super easy to use - I poured the liquid on the damp towel I washed the car with to apply the wax, then let the wax dry to a haze, and then buffed out with a dry microfiber towel. Wash/wax took about an hour to do myself, which is worth it considering how long a the Nu-Finish stays on.

EDIT: Amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BPSW7C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465775620&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Nu+Finish&dpPl=1&dpID=41TQElpWDtL&ref=plSrch

Go to Amazon and order this (I like Meg's products),

• Harbor Freight DA
  
  
• Meg's Endurance Tire Gel
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Protectant
  
  
• Meg's Ultimate Liquid Wax
  
  
• Meg's APC
  
  
• Rag Company's Borderless Blonde
  
  
• Rag Company's Waffle Weave
  
  
• Hex Logic White Pad (3)
  
  
• Hex Logic Orange Pad (2)
  
  
• Hex Logic Red Pad (2)
  
  
• M105
  
  
• M205
  
  
• 3M Auto Tape
  
  
• Mother's Wheel Brush
  
  
• ABN Woolies
  
  
• Trim Brush
  
  
• Chem Guys Wash Mitt (2)
  
  
• Mother's Clay Bar Kit
  
  This should run you about $345 for everything and have you setup to take care of your car for a long time. You can find a 20% discount code online for harbor freight to bring the price down $55 for the DA. Go to home depot and buy a couple buckets and you will be good to go.
  
  Edit: To add, I went to Lowes and bought a cheap inline sprayer for my hose and it works fine for foaming up the vehicle, plus it only costs $5.
  
  Edit2: If you are going to downvote me please post why you don't like my recommendation.

I've used Meguiar's Quik Wax on my car and even after washing it a couple times, water still beads up a bit. The bit of shine benefit is gone, and the beading isn't as strong as fresh (still WAY better than none). But it's clearly beading after a few months.

If the products are related, it's probably worth trying out.

Just a lightweight silicone oil, probably easiest to use a spray polish. Gives a good wet-look sheen, non-volatile, doesn't rub off too easily. This stuff is good and cheap if you don't mind the new-car smell: https://amzn.to/2Nj13I6 Alternatively, this gives a wet shine to latex or plastics: https://amzn.to/2ICKWV6

I don't know where you can wash your bike in that area, but I wanted to say that you might consider a waterless bike wash.

For example, this is a car product that works wonderfully on bikes. You just need to have a few clean rags or a supply of absorbent paper towels:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3626-Ultimate-Waterless-Wash/dp/B006FUT0CS

I just built a board and found a thread somewhere that I can't find now [edit] Found it that compared wax and various other stuff for making the board slick. They arrived at the conclusion that this spray is more slick than carnuaba wax. After trying it, I think I agree, and it's easier to apply.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MXX5D8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, boric acid is toxic.

"The best alternative to boric powder is potato starch. It was used in the last CarromWorld Cup in 2017 in UK. All western countries use potato starch as boric acid is considered to be toxic if inhaled."

Hey, i love the 86/BRZs. I use this product to clean my WRX. You should give it a try it's amazing for the apartment life.


Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vX0-BbBFR4FB6

Been going back and forth on the coating. I did watch some youtube before started and did the two bucket method. From my research it looks like if you just wax it every 3-4 months it should have near the same protection as ceramic. I do have the stuff to diy cermaic coating saved in my Amazon cart though. Was thinking about giving it a go.

Used this wash and wax from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D8DR0AO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O7PNS2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How did the gap become so large? I'm over in Portland, so I only get around to doing a full detail 2-3 times a year. It's generally a 48 hour process for the exterior if I do it solo and don't rush through it. I can keep the detail healthy between washes + product application. Honestly, just use Meguiar's "Last Touch" spray after every wash and it will make your detail last for months. Most other "detailing sprays" are total gimmicks and won't last, and that includes other Meguiar's detail spray products.

I'm telling you, I last detailed in November and didn't wash my car for almost 4 months. It was filthy, but after washing, drying, and applying, it looked like I had just detailed it. Another 2 months went by before I washed again (this last weekend) and the wax/polish I applied all the way back in November is still alive. I loooove this product. I was going through so many cans I went ahead and bought the industrial size jug. For wheels, use this, but not this. I used that crap for awhile before realizing this product causes specks or drops of clear coat on the side skirt panels to drip off into these white stains. It's permanent, and it took me forever to figure out where that shit was coming from. Luckily I caught it early and switched products.

You can try either bug and tar remover by turtle wax (the only product ID ever buy from them), 90% isopropyl alcohol will work too, as it works great for tree sap and it's safe for clear coats, or if all else fails, you can try a clay bar with some quick detailer as lube. Mothers has a quick detailer and clay bar kit you can buy at any auto parts store like AutoZone/Advanced Auto.

My wife is short and I installed the "mini-apes" on her bobber to help with the stock seating position (which is uncomfortable as all hell, IMHO) - she has no issues reaching the mini-apes and it puts her upright.

As far as your Matte paint, I've got a '19 Chief DH as well as her Bobber. I've had great luck using this to "wash" them and then spraying [this product] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FQHY64S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on to "seal" the finish.

I've been messing around with a bunch of products / sealers / washes...etc... this combo seems to give the best results.

I used this and followed the directions on the bottle of leaving it on for one minute.

I'll look for the remover you linked soon and hope that works, and if not, I'll try a clay bar. Thanks for your help!

Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover has worked very well for me.

Every other Turtle Wax product I've used has been terrible but this one is actually pretty good

I definitely don't use machine or semiDIY washes like this. I wash with this soap and do a hand wash every week or so.

Edit: Typos.

Pressure wash with This pressure washer
Foam cannon from Amazon [Foam cannon](http://www.MATCC.com/ Adjustable Foam Wash Gun 1L Bottle Car Wash Gun Snow Foam Lance With 1/4" Quick Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE78VO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrJmzb8PWHAQH)
Then I used regular 2 bucket car wash with grit guard from Amazon, speed shine (2 towels), spray wax, vacuum, interior cleaner, leather conditioner, plastic conditioner, and spray window cleaner.

All the products I use are griots garage... Really good quality stuff.

[Speed shine](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 11146SP Speed Shine - 35 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KuJmzbF11YMYS)
[Interior cleaning ](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10956 Interior Cleaner - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lvJmzbYGA8QRT)
[Spray wax](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10962 Spray-On Wax - 22 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4PB8H0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WvJmzb2DC8ZAZ)
[Wash soap](http://www.Griot.com/'s Garage 10866 Brilliant Finish Car Wash - 64 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PA2LMVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IwJmzbPEEQTMQ)

Just keep going down the griot's line up... High quality all around. Cheers

First off thanks redditors for the input. The reason I wanted the wet look is because I put armor all on my dash one time (which I was told after is bad for it, so I ceased using it) and I liked how it looked alot haha. What does everyone think about The Chemical Guys Silk Shine Sprayable Dressing?

I also liked the meguiars product line and I think I will check out those wipes they have to keep in the trunk.

I do this all the time. I use Nu Finish car polish (http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C) it has a polymer base that can fill in small scratches and repair scuffs for it actually fills in the space of the crack with transparent plastic. It works great on minor stuff and with a good buff wheel you can get most scratches out.

There is also heavy duty version http://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-NFS-05-Scratch-Doctor/dp/B000AME50Y/ref=pd_sim_auto_1 have not tried it on screens though.

You should use some pure carnauba wax on the boards. Most people recommend Mothers. https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05550-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U2V1O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483199201&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+pure+carnauba+wax

I got my board from Muzzies, and Murray suggested that I use https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6. It's a blend, and he finds it works best on his surface.

Yep. Meguiar's quik wax. There's like two different versions and I don't know what makes them different from each other but I guess they're more or less the same.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001O7PNS2/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B00P9OF00C

Spray, let it sit a moment, wipe it around the areas you regularly wax, done.

I cannot speak for how long this spray wax lasts compared to actual wax, but for me it's been very effective as a complete novice to car detailing and cosmetic maintenance.

Thanks! I started off with Mother's California Gold clay bar and waxed with Meguiers Ultimate Liquid Wax.

Honestly I'm not sure when the scratches came out. I didn't notice them after I used the clay bar, but I didn't think to actually look for them. Definitely not visible after the wax, though!

I don't know if it's "The Best Way", but after peeling the sticker from my car with the hair dryer trick I used some Turtle Wax Bug & Tar remover to remove the glue residue and it was very effective.

As an aside, I haven't tried it yet for anything else.

Mirror Glaze 7 with a wool buffing pad after you wash it clean

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Show-Car/dp/B0002UQAM0

don't let the buffer sit in one place or buff dry

you might need to follow up with swirl remover polish because its black

and don't try to get every last scratch out like others are saying you can burn through the clear

>The key to keeping dust down is adding a dryer sheet while cleaning.

Yep.

I use cheapie new ones (Kroger house brand) & they turn gray pretty quickly. I also wet tumble after depriming (I like clean primer pockets & case interiors) and dry tumble with lizard litter and an occasional capful of NuFinish. After adding the polish run the tumbler 5-10 minutes before adding brass - avoids clumping.

I wet tumble after depriming to avoid running grimy cases thru my sizing dies, do all my case prep (size, trim, chamfer, flash hole uniforming rifle cases) then dry tumble to deal with the brass particles from prep.

Between Armor-All car was for wet tumbling and Nu-finish for dry, the result is shiny cases inside and out that stay bright until I get around to loading them.

I used Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18216-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax/dp/B004HCM9H4. And thanks for the positive thoughts!

No problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502586791&sr=8-1&keywords=turtle+wax

Easy to use. Just get the applicator pad a little wet, dab a little wax onto it, and apply it to the entire screen (just dont go into the microphone or speaker holes). Then give it a few minutes so it hazes over and dries, and then buff it out with a cloth. I usually did two or three coats but one is normally good. And it helps cover up very minor scratches too.

Well clearly they didn't keep polishing it even though it was still being used. Because of that, with gradual use, it started to get more and more scuffed.

Someone tweet this at D-Bro and the game should be good until Season 1 starts.

X-Press spray is a magical. Think detailer spray, but it actually does something. Dries clear, so you can use it on any surface. I usually spray my car while it's still wet after washing, then just dry it off with a microfiber. Water beads off like everything was rain-x'ed


https://www.amazon.com/MEGUIARS-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B005JPJMI2/

Well I've just started getting together my own kit and felt I HAD to get these:

1. Meguiar's Clay bars and quik detail spray
   
   
2. Butt-load of microfiber towels
   
   
3. Waffle-weave drying towel
   
   
4. Grit-guards
   
   
5. Iron X wheel cleaner
   
   
6. Industrial Spray bottles
   
   
7. Meguiar's Gold Class car wash soap
   
   
8. Meguiar's Gold Class Wax
   
   
9. Purple Power
   
   
10. Proper wash mitt
    
    I still feel like there are atleast ten other products that I NEED!
    
    -Pressure Washer
    
    -Foam Cannon
    
    -Detailing brushes
    
    -Sealants/Compounds combined with a proper rotor drill
    
    -ETC
    
    

Been using Meguire's Car Wash
Meguiar's G7101FFP Gold Class Car Wash - 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HR14SJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0ioMDbSFX1D4K

and Liquid Wax
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VkoMDb4XC1C4Y

Been happy with the results Consistent waxing really makes washing alot easier

When I get my Impreza in a month and a half, I plan on giving it a coat of wax. Seems like a good idea. I've heard this wax is good...
Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cSPAybN24F9GC

Not sure what else, I'm looking for recommendations too.

1.) Washed the entire car using a large bucket of water and Meguiar's Gold Class Wash Shampoo with a large grout sponge.

2.) Rinsed the car with clean water from a hose and spray nozzle.

3.) Dried the car using The Supreme Guzzler Waffle Weave by Cobra

4.) Clayed the car using Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit

5.) Buffed the car with a microfiber towel as I went over it with the clay.

6.) Waxed the car using a dual action polisher and Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

7.) Buffed again with a microfiber towel as I went over each panel.

Take a heat gun to the badging and run some floss behind the letters and it should come right off. As for residue, use this awesome cleaner from Turtlewax. It worked for me, and I think the car looks much better.

I use a clay bar kit I got from the store, I figured it's just clay - nothing fancy. You can use water or a quick detailer as a lubricant, I personally use Griot's Garage Speed Shine.

For waxing, I do a layer of Jescar Power Lock Plus sealant, wait a day, then add a layer of Collinite 845 which should give it lasting protection.

Visit /r/autodetailing, they have fantastic tutorials and tips for beginners to those looking to go more advanced.

Meguiar's D156 is your friend, if you want to give it a little shine once it's clean. Spray a microfiber, wipe it on, then wipe it off. Works on plastic, black trim, everything.

Go to the autoparts store and buy this stuff called buffing compound. It will be in he section where they sell the car wax. Use it and it will get rid of that film.

Here it is on Amazon:

Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ze3hzbJHNS5B3

If you mean a spray wax, check out D156 by Meguiar's. Solid spray wax that smells really good, and can be used on the paint and any plastic trim. Not exactly sure what the durability is like, though.

Also if you want it for a bit of a discount, I (and others on here) have a wholesale account with Detailed Image.

I always keep some bug and tar cleaner w/ a microfiber towel in the trunk for inevitable bird poop. Does a pretty good job of removal even if it has been on there for a couple days.

Buy this and be mindblown that you ever needed water in the first place, it's fantastic. I also like to dilute some of it and use it as a quik detail/waxer.

http://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NRWW2012Q-Rinse-Wash-Wax/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462805403&sr=8-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax

Yeah for sure! I got a headlight kit from amazon, the chemical guys silk shine spray and a spray bottle with dish soap and water. I also had a 24-pack of large microfiber cloths that I fully expected to throw away, and we chucked maybe 12 of them. They were CAKED with dirt. Haha.

Canuba wax when I feel ambitious. I really like the Griots speed shine in between waxes

I personally have only used the Nanoskin sponge to decontaminate my car. It's a highly recommended clay alternative.

As for a sealant/wax, I'm not sure if my recommendations will be of any use since I just started detailing my own car over the last ~6 months. I have only tried one wax (Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax) and one sealant (Opti-Seal). Longevity of the Ultimate Liquid Wax wasn't great IMO. I'd look into Collinite 845 since it's highly regarded and there are plenty of tips/tricks on how to use it.

Honestly, easiest solution may be go to with CarPro Essence or HD Speed. I don't think there are any special tips/tricks on how to use Essence or HD Speed, and both will allow you to polish and seal your paint in one step. Admittedly, I haven't looked into either much, but they are next in line for me to research.

I've been pretty happy with Optimum No Rinse Wash & Wax

This is the stuff I used. Picked it up at Harbor Freight when I went to get the orbital buffer. It is supposed to be a polish/wax replacement but I'm not sure what it really is (i.e. wax, glaze, polish). Worked amazing though.

Use a squirt of Nu Finish in your tumbler for each load you do. It'll help polish the brass better than just the lizard bedding will. Should be readily available at your local Wal-Mart, too.

LOL i had the same issue. Turns out that the back camera has a coating, which makes pictures all blurry. Get some polish and with a qtip clean the camera glass. Sadly i figured this out too late, i though the coating was more of a peel so i tried taking it out, turns out i was pulling the glass.

something like this

Oh i didn't realize there was a difference between polishing compound and rubbing compound. Would this work?

Meguiar's G18116 Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FUT154/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_14OHDbVERDVNV

You can try simply waxing the surface of the board and adding pads to the bottoms of the strikers.

I use Mother's pure carnauba wax (amazon), same as on my crokinole board. The maker of Muzzie's crokinole boards recommends Turtle Wax super hard shell paste wax instead (amazon).

1. Rub a small amount on the board (do only a quarter of the board at a time otherwise the wax will harden on the surface in patches while you do other sections).
   
2. Use a buffing/microfiber cloth to spread the wax evenly in circles. The surface will become a little cloudy.
   
3. Important: after the whole board is waxed wait at least 20 minutes for the wax to cure.
   
4. Use a different side of the cloth to buff the wax off. Note that this whole process seems to work best in hotter temperatures.
   
   Under the strikers I put teflon stickers (amazon). Other people seem to have good results with Scotch felt pads instead (amazon).
   
   I did this to a new-ish board with two coats of wax and the striker movement was so slick, the game was difficult to play until the surface got some wear. The results won't be so dramatic with a well-worn board, but it goes to show that a bit of waxing will make a difference.

I store 8 bikes in mine. Never a problem. Though if you'd like to keep it looking clean, I can't recommend this enough.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-SC1-Silicone-Spray-12oz/dp/B000WK5PWQ

Use Meguiar's for the seats every few months.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G10916-Leather-Cleaner-Conditioner/dp/B0002V9IFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387042&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+leather

Wash is, you guessed it, a Meguiar's product.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Gold-Class-Shampoo-Gallon/dp/B00068OU7U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387140&sr=8-2&keywords=meguiars+gold+class+car+wash

For a wax, I really like the NXT 2.0, also from Mequiar's.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387101&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+nxt+tech+wax+2.0

Dash protectant, I use 303.

https://www.amazon.com/303-Protectant-plastic-finished-leather/dp/B0185PU38A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495387193&sr=8-4&keywords=303+protectant

Now, for washing, you want to always use (2) buckets, each with a grit-guard at the bottom. One bucket is a rinse bucket for your cleaning mitt. You dip your wash mitt in the rinse bucket (which is just water) before dipping into the soap bucket each time you do a different section of the car. Helps to minimize swirling and contaminants ruining your paint.

Don't go in a swirling pattern when washing the car, instead, go in straight lines back and forth.

After rinsing the car down, take your drying towel and lightly drag it in straight lines across the difference sections of the car. You don't need to apply pressure, just let it lightly drag across the car. You will see a light layer of water left after dragging the towel across. That's fine, it will dry quickly and gives the towel some lubrication which also minimizes scratching.

Price isn't so important, last year I purchased this from my local bike shop for $14 after looking up reviews on it. Just make sure its a wax, so that it stays on the chain and reduces friction, not a liquid that flings off. I clean and lube my chain a ton and I still have more than half a can left after 2 summers of riding.

I use the wash and wax spray anywhere stuff, no need to wash every time you take her out. Works good when your in a rush. Otherwise Ill wash it down and give it a good hand wash with soap and water and use a leaf blower to dry. Heres a link to some of the spray I was talking about. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Wash-Anywhere-Spray/dp/B006FUT0CS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396018452&sr=8-1&keywords=car+wash+spray+no+water

Rag Company Starter Kit - $30 - Includes wash mitt and other assorted towels needed to get started.

2 buckets from Home Depot - $6

2 Grit Guards - $18

Megs Gold Class Soap - $9

Megs Gold Class Carnauba - $11

einszett Cockpit Premium - $10

Stoner Invisible Glass Cleaner - $4

Chemical Guy's APC - $10

Optibond Tire Gel - $11


Grand Total of $109

There are obviously some nicer products you could get, but this is a great start for a beginner I think.

I’m afraid I can’t help you there. I’m in the US. Most of what I can buy is called either polishing compound or rubbing compound, and it’s either made by Tuttle wax or meguiar’s. This is what’s available here. It’s just a paste or liquid with some very fine abrasives.

Wax is often a lot less messy. Maxima makes a really good one that takes about 2 seconds to apply and sets rather quickly. It smells nice too IMO.

Just purchased my 2nd grit guard today, in fact! Going to be big ballin with a three bucket system and try a rinseless wash in between actual cleanings which makes me extremely nervous, but everyone swears by it. My car's 7 years old and at 122k miles, so I'm beyond obsessing over every speck, thankfully. Definitely not doing it on a filthy car, though.

I have never heard of any place that details bikes. Hose it down with a liberal amount of this(Muc-Off works well too), wait, rinse it off , dry the bike and then use this stuff everywhere except the seat and grips. Your bike will look brand new and it will only take like 20 minutes. That's probably all a shop is going to do.

https://www.amazon.com/Viking-Car-Care-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G18016-Clear-Rubbing-Compound/dp/B006FUT13G/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Clear-Coat-Polishing-Compound/dp/B006FUT154/

​

Wash/Wipe the area with damp cloth to remove dirt

1. Rub the rubbing compound using pad. Scrub!
   
2. Wipe clean
   
3. Rub the polish compound using pad. Scrub!
   
4. Wipe clean
   
   Don't use too much product.
   Too much will make it to slippery.
   
   Err on the side of caution if it's still got scratches repeat the whole process again
   
   
   
   $20 and 20 mins. will make a big difference.
   
   ​
   
   ​
   Post a before
   and after picture

Thanks for the reply!

Is the D156 the same as this product from meguiars? Have you used that one? I only ask because I've seen that one readily available on the shelf of my local autozone, meaning I wouldn't have to wait days for it to ship before I got to try it out

Gave up on wet tumbling and use dry media but ad a cap full of Nu Finish Liquid Car polish.

Brass turns out looking like brand new!

​

https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Finish-Liquid-Car-Polish/dp/B000BPSW7C

https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Class-Carnauba-Premium-Paste/dp/B0009IQXCM?ref_=ast_sto_dp

I've had really good experiences with this compared to turtle wax and mothers. haven't really tried anything else!

I own these 2 waxes/sealants, which would be better for winter?

NXT 2.0 Tech Wax

Duragloss 105

Definitely something I've considered. But I really like the smell of the oil in a spraycan that I use....

I think upgrading my headlights to HID projectors is going to be my next project when I can scrape together the money.

5.95 for a can. Turtle Wax is soo generous.

I have this issue on my '17 SV650, it goes away after a good cleaning.

Pick up a grunge brush and some chain wax or equivalent.

I do this after every bike wash.

Also check the chain while you have your weight on the bike.

I had a blast tonight. Thanks for everything. I look forward to next time.

Is this the wax you bought?

Mothers 05724 California Gold Spray Wax - 24 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MXX5D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JlJuDbFQG89YM

Also, what was the towel?

Last question, which one is better?
This:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FB8U

Or this one:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8DR0AO

And would both work while using clay for decontamination?

You'll need the proper equipment. Hopefully you already have a buffer and compound?

PM me and we can dig into the details, if you aren't familiar with the polishing process.

Personally I avoid anything wax based. I refer to used the petroleum based Nu Finish because it doesn't leave residue like wax, and it goes on and comes off easy. I started using it on my airplanes and have since found it is good for cars, to, even plastic trim.

Try some chain wax spray, that stuff sticks to the chain very nicely.

If the paint/plastic is in good condition-
MEGUIAR'S G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax, 16 Fluid Ounces, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_0.XpDbN62H181

If the clearcoat has some surface rubbing "haze" you might need to clean it up before wax.
Meguiar's G19220 Ultimate Polish, 20 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X413M7J/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_QbYpDbKCBNB2M

Just remember wax more often in summer heat, and dont over polish, because its basically sanding down surface to smooth out problems.

I use Meguiar's Ultimate Wax

Reviews are good:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Ultimate-Liquid-Wax-oz/dp/B004HCM9H4/ref=pd_sim_auto_16

Meguiar's G190526 Hybrid Easy to Use Ceramic Wax Protection-G190526, 26 oz https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06WVQ6MVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_62omDb5825XQF

After you get it as clean as possible, spray it with detailing spray, it works wonders. This stuff; Maxima SC1

Here it is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005JPJMI2?pc_redir=1398611072&robot_redir=1

Yes. It's the same stuff.

D156 is the "pro" version of the ultimate spray wax.

Hey guys,

If you look at the exhaust straight on, there's so much carbon build up. I live in the Bay Area where it's been sunny so the outside of it looks shiny! Once rain starts, it'll be messy like the rest. It's an aftermarket exhaust as well.

I always keep this and a microfiber in my car so I can wipe away gunk that gets on my car.

https://www.amazon.com/Griots-Garage-11146SP-Speed-Detailer/dp/B00J5CVMLU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505861830&sr=8-1&keywords=griots+garage

Wash the bike so it's spotless, then spray it down with Maxima SC1. It'll shine and smell amazing, no way she could possibly object.

you are putting way too much or change chain lube. I am using chain wax (see here )

Also, I put the chain wax after a ride when the chain is hot. The lube penetrates deeper on the o-rings and on the plus side, you are always ready to ride next time.

2017 EX-L hatchback

Mods: XenonDepot 5000k HIDs, HIC visors, Smoked side markers, Chrome exhaust finishers, LED interior lighting, OEM splash guards

Edited: For anyone curious, I tried using this waterless wash and wax for the first time. Not too shabby for quick in-between wash sessions. Just be liberal with the solution and use plenty of microfibers.

Curious, is this that what you guys are talking about? I wrench on my own cars but I’m such a noob when it comes to detailing lol

Optimum (NRWW2012Q) No Rinse Wash & Wax - 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qxNWCb7PCWQ18

I've been using Chemical Guys' Silk Shine Dressing for tires, rubber, and plastic. It works rather well IMO.

http://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-TVD_109_16-Sprayable-Dressing/dp/B001TI1F5Q

Recommended http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII

Are you talking about this? If so, that's completely nonabrasive.

wouldn't bother applying that. If you just did a full correction you should just need to apply a final layer of wax/sealant to really achieve that last 10% of the look. A glaze doesn't serve much purpose at your stage.

great looking pens.

​

for sanding insides: wet or dry sandpaper, water, 320 grit up to 1200 grit, lots of time to stand there and sand b/c it's BORING work, and one of these-

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Slotted-Mandrel-1-4-Shank-Body-Split-End-Head-Core-Sanding-Internal-Holes-/221323367298

​

and after that a paper towel instead of sandpaper, and plastic polish. Some of us use headlight polisher from the auto parts stores. I like the heavy cut meguiars, and then a light cut meguiars.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_vnNMDb8YZZX2C

I use meguirs nxt tech wax 2.0 and turtle wax and dry in between applications

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G12718-NXT-Generation-Tech/dp/B0002UQATS

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-9-1-Step-Dry/dp/B0007TV6M0

Two bucket wash with Meguiars Gold Class Soap, then a quick wax with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax. Used Invisible Glass for all glass.

I use Meguiar's Nxt Generation Tech Wax. It's what I've used since ~2003.

You can use either of these I just use the meguiars gold class because I got Collinite and didn't know what to do with the leftover carnauba wax



Rain-X Glass Treatment Trigger - 16 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BVRZ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_USbHxbVN12JFV


Meguiar's G7014J Gold Class Carnauba Plus Paste Wax - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lTbHxbZGBRHHM

Polishing sheets
www.amazon.com/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_oJMttb14VTZ9R

Simichrome
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YUQ4E/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_jKMttb1EX6ENW

Renaissance Wax Polish 65ml
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AJWN62/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_RKMttb1YM5YXC

arnauba Wax
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_NMMttb1MPHYVW

I use Meguairs Gold Class

???

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQXCM/ref=psdc_15718371_t3_B0009IQX6I

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-520A-Remover-Trigger/dp/B0009JKGII

I used a lithium silicate sealer and carnauba based wax. I think it's a more durable, longer lasting finishing system than anything oil based. Oil also darkens the colors. The sealer and wax won't change final color.

​

Sealer:

https://concretecountertopsupply.com/Item/FishLithiumGal

​

Wax:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-T-223-Super-Shell/dp/B000BPSVJ6/ref=sr_1_29?keywords=carnauba+wax&qid=1565364222&s=gateway&sr=8-29

Nu Finish Liquid Car Polish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPSW7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2tZTAbNVCW14X

Planning to wash and wax my wife's car this weekend. My plan is to use Meg'sUltimate as the wax. I've used NuFinish forEVER.

Would/Could/Should I apply NuFinish and then Meg's?


Edit: spelling

SC1?? - I use this stuff too.

New bike in a can

Maxima 74920 Chain Wax - 13.5 oz. Aerosol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012TZ1RU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RPERDbGJEH1W8

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012TZ1RU?pc_redir=1404538634&robot_redir=1

Popping back in here, I use this stuff for wax: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17516-Ultimate-Quik-Wax/dp/B001O7PNS2

Where does that fall in terms of longevity?

Wash: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Hyper-Wash-Foaming-Leaves-D11001/dp/B0006SH4IM

Clay: https://smile.amazon.com/Nanoskin-AS-019-AutoScrub-Grade-Sponge/dp/B00CUAWJ6G

Decontamination: https://www.autogeek.net/carpro-iron-x-cleaner.html

DA: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-57-amp-heavy-duty-dual-action-variable-speed-polisher-69924.html

Polish: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI

Compound: https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI

Pads: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004104678/ref=twister_B00NN89SGI?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Coating and Sealant: https://www.autogeek.net/cquartz-uk-edition.html

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LMGDHI/ref=psdc_15718371_t1_B0002UQAM0

I use Meguiar's M105 then M205 on my headlights.

How many passes do you do per section with your random orbital?

In my situation, I've got a car with spiderweb swirls on the paint. They cover a lot of paint but are very light scratches; they can only be seen in direct sunlight.

I have used these following products on my swirls but it seems that they did absolutely nothing to the paint or the scratches.
meguiar's buffing pad
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UQAXY/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01
meguiar's m105
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMGDHI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i07
Do you have different suggestions for products or am I most likely using incorrect technique?