Reddit mentions: The best care corrosion & rust inhibitors

I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.

With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.

Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)

And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)

And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h

Some important tools and materials are:

• 220grit wet/dry, 150grit wet-dry, 8000 wet/dry
  
• A full kit of grits for blade sharpening down to .1 micron). The Sample Pack -- either 1 or 2 sheets of each is what I use.
  
• Granite slabs
  
• Metal File
  
• Evaporust - (this stuff is amazing, you can see the results in the albums below)
  
• Brushes (plastic, brass, steel bristle)
  
• Dupli-Color semigloss black engine enamel (Dupli-Color # DE-1635)
  
• Spray Adhesive
  
• Sharpening/Honing Guide - I got the Irwin model from Amazon
  
• Rags
  
• Murphy's Wood Soap
  
• Olde English Wood Restorer
  
  I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
  
  I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
  
  The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
  
  Albums
  -------
  
• Family Photo Album - All planes completed. 1 Sold already and 2 are ending tomorrow
  
• Stanley No.4 Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete & Added to personal collection
  
• Stanley No 4c Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete and Sold for a $56 profit!
  
• Stanley No.5 Record Type 9 - Complete & Added to personal collection
  
• Stanley No.5 Type 17 (Purple Bed) - Complete
  
• Keen Kutter No.4 - Complete
  
  For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
  
  > Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
  
  > Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
  > Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
  > Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
  > Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
  > That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
  > ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
  
  It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
  > This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
  
  Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
  
  

1. Took apart and cleaned all parts with soapy water and a plastic bristle brush
   
2. Soaked in Evaporust for 24-hours
   
3. Cleaned all parts with plastic, brass, and steel bristle brushes while in Evaporust
   
4. Cleaned all parts with soapy water
   
5. Dried all parts completely and then wiped with mineral spirits to get any remaining H20.
   
6. Coated all parts in 3-in-1 oil
   
7. Repainted bed if necessary.
   
8. Reassembled
   
9. Using Sharpie to mark bed and wings, flatten all sides with sandpaper on a granite slab. Used 150 grit and 220 grit wet/dry.
   
10. Flatten lever cap contact point and front edge with 150g and 220 grit sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face
    
11. Flatten chip-breaker (cap iron) contact point with 150g and 220g sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face.
    
12. Adjust frog positioning for desired plane task (paper thin for smoothing No.4's, wider for No.5's)
    
13. Restore knob and tote. Cleaned with Murphy's Wood Soap and polished with Olde English Dark Wood Restorer. (I wanted to keep the patina on these parts instead of sanding them down to bare wood and re-finishing. They are old tools and I want that to be reflected somewhere that wouldn't affect performance.)
    
14. Sharpen blade with Scary Sharp method ( sand paper, Japanese Super Stone, 40 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron, .3 micron, and .1 micron grit progression). Cambered the blades of the No.5 I plan to keep but left all others 100% square so new users can adjust to their preference.
    
15. Test!
    
    Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
    
    --------------------------------------------
    
    I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?

For rust spots that are rotted through completely, you'll definitely need to cut them out and make patches. This is hard, but with lots of patience and the right cutting tools, a little bit of welding skill, you'll be fine.

Remember that for welding on body panels, the sheet metal is very thin, so weld carefully to avoid putting to much heat in. Too much heat in a body panel will warp the surrounding metal and cause an ugly look when you do body work, making it hard to smooth out the area even with bondo. Try making many small spot welds. If you have an air compressor, a good way to cool down the metal while welding is to attach your 'blowing' attachment and just blow cool air over the region after each weld. Patience is absolutely key. Have a steady hand. Do not just burn through on the body.

When welding on frame pieces or other things that won't be seen, this is not as important, though you should still be careful. A fire is not great.

I would suggest you buy a large sheet of fairly thin steel, a gauge which matches body panels closely. Too thin and you'll burn through; too thick and it will be hard to weld.

For surface rust and that rust which does not rot through panels, rails and other metal completely, use Ospho. Ospho is a compound of phosphoric acid and a few other additives that, when added to rusted metal, causes a chemical reaction which hardens into a kind of undercoat. When using Ospho, make sure that you clean up the area first with a wire brush and, for best results, some sandpaper as well. You'll want to knock off as much scale as you can before applying the chemical so that it works properly. Applying Ospho to scaly surfaces will not allow the chemical to be effective.

Here is a link to the big bottle. I'd suggest it since you can use it again in the future. It is to be applied LIGHTLY. Noting this, it is suggested that you buy a heavy set of paint brushes. Have a dedicated rag. Finally, get a spray bottle that can handle corrosive chemicals. You can find these at your local hardware store.

OSPHO IS DAMAGING TO PAINT. OSPHO IS DAMAGING TO PAINT. OSPHO IS DAMAGING TO PAINT. DO NOT APPLY TO PAINT!

When using Ospho, you must recognize that you are using a corrosive acid. As such, it is recommended that you wear nitrile gloves. Always wash your hands with a good basic soap, like joy or dawn, after using the chemical. This will neutralize the acid. Do not rub your eyes. If you get a little on your skin, you will be ok. Just wash, wash!

If you are not comfortable with bondo, find a good body man. A good body man is hard to find. Choose carefully your body man.

These are some hot tips. If you need help, feel free to message me.

Hey there beautiful! 🥰
After reading about the hardware on your bag tarnishing, I’ve done a little research and there are some options of putting protection to the hardware so it won’t tarnish, although I don’t know how effective they are 🤷🏼‍♀️
I’ve found this on amazon:
ProtectaClear 4 Oz. Clear, Protective Coating for Polished Metals, Stainless Steel, Jewelry - Prevent Tarnish & Protect Skin from Allergies https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186N6ZVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VmP0CbBKB5YS5
I’m planning on purchasing it and trying it on, so I’ll let you know if it does make a difference.
Awesome review! 🥰

Dowels and chopsticks with sandpaper wrapped around them, and a Dremel with a variety of stones. It's gonna be a labor of love.

Proluxe is good, but it's really just a deck stain. And the semitransparent is a water based acrylic... you're not gonna like the finish it gives you on that beautiful old hardwood. It'll look like plastic. I'd personally go with an Old Masters penetrating stain (you can go with a wiping stain if you wanna tone down the grain a little... wiping stain will give you a little more of the semitransparent look) followed by a spar finish (3 coats, applied with sponge brushes, light sand with 220 between coats - juuuuust kiss it with the sandpaper). It'll give the door a richer and longer lasting finish than a simple coat of deck stain, and the spar is UV protectant.

I'd use Evaporust or Metal Rescue on any of the ironwork that can be removed and allowed to soak (with both products, you strain the soak and pour it back into the jug - it's reusable several times). After the rust removal soak, clean with acetone and use a self-etching primer. For anything you can't remove and soak, use Rust Reformer after wire brushing instead of a simple primer for tough surfaces - it converts surface rust to magnetite to stabilize it. Then proceed with your black color coat. After the black, spray with a couple coats of satin clear. All the paints I linked are available at any auto parts store and Walmart, and I believe Home Depot carries Metal Rescue.

That's a gorgeous door. Take pictures and post a project gallery!

Edit: added that Proluxe semitransparent is water based.

Its not a permanent solution, especially if the jewelry is fondled often, as the oils from skin can wear it away, but I use this product called protectaclear on finished pieces and it works great. It gives the jewelry a nice luster and keeps the copper from turning peoples skin green. On rings i would say it lasts a good 3 months, and on necklaces.. significantly longer, again, if its not something you hold and rub. https://amzn.com/B0186N6ZVK

Beautiful piece BTW

Sure.

Your friend sounds like the kind of guy who appreciates a Mosin Nagant...

You could get a can of Devil snotcosmoline as a joke. That would qualify as both a "gun care" chemical and be a gag joke all in one. (this is the chemical that the soviets used to preserve their firearms before stockpiling them in crates. It is a bit of a hassle to remove, but does its protectant job very, very well)

Cosmoline remover is also good.

You could also get the greatest movie ever made.

If you are the artsy type, you might also do well with a painting depicting "Rifle is fine".

First, you could scrape that rust off and wire brush it clean. Then coat it with something like this

That will slow the rusting down a bit.

To run the fan constantly throughout the summer won't benefit you the way you think it will. A ceiling fan or a box fan will give you better results without costing as much money and without shortening the life of your heating system.

If you want to run the fan periodically throughout the summer, I wouldn't jump the terminals, I would upgrade your thermostat to a programmable one and run a new wire to your board. The thermostat I have now will run the fan for 4 minutes every hour the system isn't on. I do this to help keep the air in my house clean since I have a hepa filter.

Plus the fact that you can see some significant savings with a programmable thermostat. I ended up getting a WIFI connected one with an app so I can turn the system on/off from anyplace with my phone. So if we are out over night I can have the system off and turn it off as we are heading back to the house.

I have a cargo van so I imagine that my rust/general wear was worse than anything you'd encounter with your van. That being said, mine had a black rubbery sort of floor mat and when I pulled that up there was faced denim composite insulation underneath (which was absolutely disgusting), some small visible rust spots and some bubbled up paint (which had surface rust underneath). I got this wire brush set meant for hand drills, which I don't particularly recommend since my drill (Dewalt 20 volt) did not want to hold onto the round bit part of the brushes no matter how much I tightened it and was a pain. I think most people use angle grinders, which would have been a lot easier. So I ground off a lot of the paint/rust and generously put Corroseal around the rusty areas but I did it on a very hot day and then came back the next day to wipe it off (which was my mistake - I should have left it on a lot less time but even having said that I still wouldn't recommend it), it basically turned into an epoxy and took hours to remove (and there was still rust under a lot of what I put Corroseal on). What ended up working really well for me was making a citric acid/water solution. I put it in a spray bottle, spraying down the rusty areas, let it sit for 30 minutes or so and scrubbed it off (most rust was dissolved by the citric acid and was very easy to clean off, a few areas I did a few applications). As a side note: I had the giant bag of citric acid linked ^ already from something else, for the rust removing I only used a few cups of the 5 lb bag. I then wiped it down with a weak baking soda/water solution just to neutralized any leftover citric acid. Wiped it down a few times with clear water and painted over the whole floor with Rusty metal primer as an added precaution. If I could do it over I'd get an angle grinder (and thoroughly expose/remove the rust), use the citiric acid, and the rusty metal primer. That was ridiculously drawn out, but I hope it was helpful if you end up dealing with any rust!

Do you treat them so they dont Tarnish? I have made a few copper items and they were getting dark pretty quickly. My friend /u/octopusmadeofknives turned me onto a clear coat for copper called ProtectaClear. I just used it and it seemed to work good. Time will tell if it keeps it from tarnishing. Also have heard you can just clear coat with a poly spray. I've done this on steel rune necklaces.

The best protective coating for metal is a product called "ProtectaClear" (https://www.amazon.com/ProtectaClear-Clear-Protective-Coating-Metal/dp/B0186N6ZVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519139549&sr=8-1&keywords=PROTECTACLEAR) and it's 4 ounces for $24.95. It's extremely durable. The next best thing is probably "PYM II" (https://www.etsy.com/listing/489878343/pym-2-pym-ii-preserve-your-memories-2?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=PYM%20II&ref=sr_gallery-1-1) which is an aerosol, 12 ounces for $25.50. PYM II will protect practically anything and gets fabulous reviews from everybody.

Thank you so much for your detailed review!! Tbh the Boy bag has never been on my radar due to the dimension width but after seeing your pictures, I realized there are more ways to wear it than just the shoulder. It looks amazing on you! I'm really loving the matte gold hardware with black and chevron <3 Now I want a GF Boy bag; my wallet does not thank you hahaha.

There's a hardware coating on Amazon called protectaclear I've seen mentioned on this sub you may want to try out (if it's not too late).

I just saw u/insincere_platitudes posted on another thread about a liquid/clear substance made for exactly this issue! Purchased from Amazon - called ProtectaClear & I believe this is the link she used: https://www.amazon.com/ProtectaClear-Clear-Protective-Coating-Metal/dp/B0186N6ZVK
u/insincere_platitudes I hope you don't mind me adding this here! Thank you so much for the fantastic info!😊

Food Grade 85% .. insanely strong when not diluted.. you can dilute 5 to 1 water to acid or 10:1 water to acid easily. I have put rusty bolts in the undiluted and they come out like they were sandblasted in about an hour.. the threads all cleaned out like new.

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover-Clean/dp/B06XZSW3QX

or you can buy a quart of rustmort which i always use to use as an autobody tech .. its great .. I would say its probably a 10:1 dilution

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust-Mort-Quart/dp/B000HI690U/

this is why I will never drink cola drinks again

https://jillcataldo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/cokeingredients.jpg

I highly recommend you Use this : Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_he9kDbMKZXCMV

It will get to even the deep pitted rust. In my experience this works much better than vinegar. I usually don't even use a wire brush after plates sit in evaporust for an hour or so. Based on how much you have you will probably need 2-3 gallons.

Basement machine shop in New England here. I have yet to find an AMAZING corrosion resistant spray... LPS3 works well but leaves a film which isn't ideal if you're using things semi-often because you have to really wipe down all your precision surfaces and tapers. CRC SP-400 has been my go-to for a while. A can lasts a while and works for larger stuff. Just leave a wet coat on there.
For my small hand tools, especially micrometers, etc. I use Starrett tool and instrument oil. It's expensive but a small bottle goes a long way.
The biggest difference is putting things away. I keep all my precision stuff and hand tools in a toolbox with a few dessicants and there isn't a spot on any of it.

Omg so I partly blame and partly thank your well timed post for my leather care for reps haul just then. As I said, my SO is states side and I’m soo jealous of how much he has available and always make him hoard since we see each other every few months. This is what he just said about it - shoe cleaner/leather wash lol wtf.

Anyway, I stocked up on the Cadillac leather care. It was cheaper than Apple and had more and better reviews. Many of the users said they used for their Chanel handbags and it worked well, even on lighter colours. That sold me.

Off tangent to your post but I also made him pick up this metal coating - my friend swears by it. It keeps all her hardware and jewellery polished and sparkling. Don’t you look at some of your hardware/fashion jewellery after a bit abandonment and think “wtf happened to you??” Anyway, hopefully this will save me from all the $$ wasted throwing those out!

I know this isn’t going to help you being from Canada but when there’s a will there’s a way!

Don't listen to anyone who recommends things like white vinegar.

The trick is proper treatment of the tank afterwards and it will never rust again. I personally just pour an extremely liberal amount of marvel mystery oil in the tank after, swish it around, then dump it out.

For me I prefer evaporust. Don't buy it by the gallon if you go this route. If you look up your fuel tank size online you'll get some bogus numbers that say your bike holds "4.2" gallons or something. Your tank will accommodate an entire (or almost entire) 5 gallon bucket of evaporust. I buy mine from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-Water-based-Non-Toxic-Biodegradable/dp/B00370N1UG/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=evaporust+5+gallon&qid=1570889048&sr=8-4

Buy a $5 battery operated pump from Harbor freight to transfer the evaporust from the bucket to the tank.

You will need

• evaporust
  
• water hose with GOOD pressure
  
• acetone
  
• marvel mystery oil or some fogging oil. I just use marvel
  
• Hairdryer
  
  The basic steps would be:
  
  
• Empty tank
  
• Fill COMPLETELY with evaporust. Keep topping off if the level goes down slowly
  
• Let sit for 24-72h. Longer is better
  
  It is VERY critical that you perform the next steps as quickly as possible. This is where flash rust becomes a potential issue. If you do get flash rush you just need to start the process over.
  
  
• Empty tank back into bucket
  
• Rinse thoroughly with water hose
  
• Dry with hair dryer
  
• Splash liberal amount of acetone in (this will help dry up the residual water)
  
• Dry with hair dryer
  
• Once dry or almost 100% dry pour a shit ton of marvel mystery oil in and swish it around to all surfaces
  
• Drain excess oil
  
  When you're ready to fill the tank make sure it has no pinhole leaks. If it does bring it to a radiator shop to weld them up and you're done.
  
  You do NOT need a tank liner, but I can vouch for Red Kote. People who claim tank liners "clog carbs" or "peel" just applied them incorrectly. I did my first bike with Red Kote and it ran like a top in weather ranging from -20f to 90f++ and never had any carburetor issues. The liner never peeled/flaked/etc. The other bikes I just did the evaporust/marvel route and never had one rust again. Some of them were caked with rust sludge on the inside.

I'm not convinced that any of them are much better than the others, especially with a light application like this. Hand Tool Rescue uses Evapo-Rust and it seems to work pretty well. They make a gel that would probably work well in this application since you can just brush it on the head and not have to soak the wood in the liquid form.

you can take it apart and soak parts in evapo rust https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

super easy. after you do that you'll want to clean the surfaces and apply some metal polish to prevent rust from coming back.

On a side note, if you ever have a tool that lives in an rust-prone environment try using a rust converter. It's basically an acid that will change stop oxidation (rust) and turn it black, but allow you to paint without rust bubbling up. I know that's not useful information for a saw but it's something I wish I'd known about earlier so I'm bringing it up.

Also I saw your comment below, it's really tough to polish by hand, but if you have a drill you can get an attachment.

The first thing to use is Frame Protector for the inside of the frame. This can be messy so do this first. Next a brass wire brush on an electric drill or better yet on Dremel-type tool. Third thing is VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz.. This stuff is amazing. It will turn your rust to a mineral that can be sanded off. Lastly, prep for paint. You can get in all the nooks and crannies with these and these. Do not try to paint it yourself. You suck at it. Take it to a motorcycle painter and if you ask for clear he will just hang it next to a motorcycle tank or fender and do them both at the same time. Should cost next to nothing if your prep is good.

Edit: sp

If you are lazy and don't want to harm or scuff the surrounding paint, Hammerite make this gel and it's pretty tame. I've never had it react with paint but always best to check first.
Then put a layer of wax or acf50 over it because it'll flash rust if you don't. Needs a couple of applications and a soft bristle brush to do its magic though.

You could spray in some of that rust conversion spray paint. The rust will turn black and the rest will stay clear. The black potion is still oxidized iron so it will not change color again and the black will look much better than the red/brown rust

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-RF129-10-25-Automotive-Accessories/dp/B001DKR4BE

This stuff works and while the heat wont exactly be kind to the clear portions, it wont affect the areas turned black.

Good input from everyone! Thanks guys!

This ski is my baby and been with me for a long time, I'd love to keep it that way.

I know most of this is common sense to you guys and some items I already do, but I'm stuck in my ways and don't want to forget.

Just want to make sure I continue treating her right :D

​

Consensus seems to be:

​

- WD40 (inside hull/engine before riding & engine after if large water ingestion)

- Rinse, Rinse, Rinse! (Outside, inside, trailer, car)

- CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor (impeller, moving parts, metal that contacts salt water)

- found this Amazon - CRC Corrosion Inhibitor

- Flush (engine water jackets using hose hook up)

I cleaned up and repainted my YBR's exhaust a few months ago.

I took the entire exhaust off, and then used a drill with a wire brush attachment to take off as much surface rust as possible.

I then left it for a day in a rust remover solution to get rid of the finer aspects and leave me with a smoother surface.

Crack out some sandpaper, smooth the surface of the exhaust down to try and get an even finish.

Then use some VHT Paint to cover it over again.

Rathe simple but very satisfying, makes a huge difference to the bike's aesthetics.

Look into POR-15 products. You'll want more than just the paint. To really repair it you'll want the surface cleaner, surface prep, and then the paint. Here's an example kit.

​

https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40909-Gloss-Black-Stop/dp/B077J66P27/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=por+15+kit&qid=1574267537&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMUtVMENUREdSUUlJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjE1NDQwMllKMkxBODdOMVlYSCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTM0NDU3MzBRUFQzV1RISVNJUyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

​

This kit only covers a small area. You'll need quite a bit more to do large areas of a car. Do some research on it though. It's great stuff.

I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.

I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.

What the other side said, I would suggest to get a protective coating for them like you might for costume jewelery that will oxidize on your skin.

Something like this or just clear coat nail polish

https://www.amazon.com/ProtectaClear-Clear-Protective-Coating-Metal/dp/B01DCU12PG?th=1

I used the 2k aerosol raptor liner can on my hood. It looks good enough to me! I should have taken the hood off before spraying it... I stood on my tire and sprayed it straight down instead, but I'm still pleased with it overall. I had some bubbles on the hood when the first can started running out, and I used canned air duster to pop them before it dried.

http://imgur.com/a/rDDHxpu

Aerosol can

It took me two cans for the part of the hood I did

I've had really good luck with this stuff You actually want to leave light rust on the parts, so scrape off the majority of the flaky rust and spray this on.

Some Evapo-rust would help https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66 There's a youtube channel that restores stuff like this too. I think I saw it posted on here once sorta recently.

Protecta Clear is often used by jewelers to presever patina and protect the metal. That should work. Might take a few attempts to get an even coating, but it dries pretty fast.

Here are some of my Go-To's for restoring old tools and metal parts:

Rust removal: EvapO-Rust
Awesome because when you're finished with it you can dump it into the garden and your plants will love you.

Sanding/Polishing up metal: Dico Nyalox Nylon Brushes
These last significantly longer than their wire counterparts and don't throw metal bristles into your skin. You can easily work up from grey to blue, but I find that often I can just start with the orange brush and it'll move enough metal. The blue gets it extremely shiny.

Polishing metal: 3M Scotchbrite Light Deburring Wheel
*For final finishing/polishing, you want the 'Light Deburring' wheel. You'll then just need to buy a drill arbor that matches the hole and go to work. That's easier than buying a grinder and using that. The finish that wheel leaves on metal parts is insane.

Maybe try using a rust converter on it. Sand off most of the rust and use some steel wool to get a reasonable surface. Then spray on a bit of rust converter. It'll turn any remaining rust into a hard, black material that will prevent any future rust from forming. I think it also acts as a clear coat so you may wish to do a bit of sanding afterwards too.

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478891966&sr=8-1&keywords=rust+converter+vht

(http://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rust-Remover-Lubricant/dp/B001DT12XQ)
Stuff works great, used with a scotchbrite pad on a random orbit sander, made the saw look brand new.

I have found applying this product to my irritating earrings to be really effective! I reapply every 10th wear or so. Takes less than 10 seconds to do both posts and then let them dry. Cheap and effective method thus far!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DCU12PG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You don't need to do anything. Most tanks are untreated steel, because frankly, most things don't hold up over time and cause much bigger problems over time.

IF, I had a new, bare steel tank I would do one of the following.

1. Treat with Ospho or a similar product. https://www.amazon.com/Ospho-605-Metal-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG
   
   Phosphate conversion coating is safe and protects against rust.
   
   The only other product I would consider is Red Kote. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009X0JOSM/ref=asc_df_B009X0JOSM5480476/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B009X0JOSM&linkCode=df0&hvadid=168489986144&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4807055937970750055&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015713&hvtargid=pla-307199442621
   
   If it is truly bare steel, I would at least do the Ospho. It is almost impossible to avoid ethanol fuel these days, so some rust prevention is in order.
   
   The Caswell tank epoxy is a good product too, but I wouldn't use it on a new tank.
   

https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537385553&sr=8-3&keywords=rust+remover

Evapo-Rust is really good too. I found an entire cart of Snap-On tools in a warehouse I moved into. Evapo-Rust did an unbelievable job.

I used http://www.amazon.com/Top-Saver-Rust-Remover-Lubricant/dp/B001DT12XQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top after I had a flash rust on the entire top if my saw when I had to drop it in storage while waiting to close on my house. It worked great for me.

get an inline fuel filter. most fuel lines are 5mm(3/16"?).

De-rusting a step-thru is a pain in the but. You can buy some toxic acid crap that will do it, but you have to be careful you don't get it on yourself. I let apple cider vinegar sit in it for a week, drain, strain and refill it every other day or so. Then I'll do a day or so of Evapo-rust

Seems to be on sale at the momend on Amazon with free shipping w/ prime. Harbor freight also carries it and with the 20% off coupon that is always available it can be had for about $23ish and it is reusable!

There are better products out there for rust prevention.

CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor

https://www.amazon.com/THE-SKYBRYTE-COMPANY-Ospho-Treatment/dp/B000C02CDG

Ospho. Follow the directions.

Duplicolor self etching primer and duplicator paint is better than the rustoleum.

Amazon
Tractor supply has it and wall mart if your lucky

Just from lots of reading, use a wire brush or wheel to get rid of as much as you can, then use something like this:

VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tOk3Bb27VP13R

In those dry areas I use CRC Corrosion Inhibitor.

For the others that I can't get a solid layer of undercoat, I use any spray lubricant to displace moisture and protect bare metal (i.e. door drain holes).

For rusted steel, I use Evapo-Rust. Afterwards, you can bring them back to a satin luster with 0000 steel wool. The 4-ought steel wool also works well on aluminum.

Try this stuff, it's meant for jewelry and dries completely clear. It is a bit pricey but it does last a long time with lots of handling. I've used it on a steel water bottle, so something I was touching and stuff constantly, and it's been a couple years with minimal peeling.

Three coats of clear coat.

I used this.

This product is a soak. I purchased a gallon jug for $21 on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M0TLQ66/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498429496&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evapo+rust&dpPl=1&dpID=51QNIj5clvL&ref=plSrch) I varied the time of the soak by the amount of rust on the tool. I checked on them periodically and used a brass wire brush on them before, during, and after the soak. The threads run effortlessly.

Could try this;
http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/dp/B002NUABUO

I didn't believe this exists, yet it does.

https://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP229-Rust-Convertor-Can/product-reviews/B002NUABUO/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_hist_1?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=one_star&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar

They literally just sprayed bed liner up there, so grab a can of bed liner and go to town.

https://www.amazon.com/U-Pol-Aerosol-Bedliner-Protective-Coating/dp/B07DGVMWS9/ref=asc_df_B07DGVMWS9/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241984506923&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5300359775557941366&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028279&hvtargid=pla-570035565731&psc=1

You'll need this.

https://www.amazon.com/Cosmoline-Rust-Prevention-2-lb/dp/B00AA0OL64

They'll be back. I ordered new straps, and have the toe catches sitting in a Metal Rescue bath. Once the straps are in they're back on the bike.

1. There are spray paints that are designed to halt and mitigate rust. Maaaaaaaaaaybe this is what they used... 😉😉😉
   
2. Rust on an enclosure has never caused a breaker to trip; mitigating the rest will not resolve the trip.

Can I ask you why it would make it worse? I'm considering using something like Evapo-Rust: https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66

It’s this guy here

I plan to use either a small synthetic paint brush or sponge. Have to do some experimenting first. From what I’ve read it’s hard to screw it up, but you should wait 24 hours after application for it to dry completely. I’ll let you know how it goes!

after you needle gun use Ospho. This stuff converts the rust on cleaned surfaces before you paint.

Works wonders on ships.

Sure! It's ProtectaClear. I've coated about 50 pieces of jewelry and haven't used a 3rd of the bottle, so it will last forever. I even paint earring backs that normally irritate me! But pay attention to the directions, particularly the ones about opening it, because it ain't easy.

ProtectaClear 4 Oz. Clear,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0186N6ZVK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Man, that's awful. Sorry to hear about that.

FWIW, I recently refurbed a Landis 3-in-1 shoe machine and this stuff worked wonders for removing the rust. It's non-corrosive, and seemed to pull off almost all of the rust with very little effort.

Hey I posted this on /r/ak47 but I just wanted to double check here - did I screw up my heat treating? I heated to 1600F->quenched->750F->aircooled. 2 out of 3 responses seem to be saying I did it right, but I could have sworn I read it was 1600F->aircool->750F->quench on Calguns. . .

And if I messed it up: what should my next steps be? Leave it be? Kasenit? Redo?

Also, if I get one of those home parkerization kits do I have to media blast or can I get away with sandpaper/dremel for prep? Here's what I'm looking at using: http://www.amazon.com/OSPHOQ-OSPHO-METAL-TREATMENT-QUART/dp/B000C02CDG

Evapo-Rust is a surprisingly good product. I use it constantly to restore antique tools because it eats rust but won't touch the steel. I've tested that advertising claim on accident by forgetting and leaving stuff in it for weeks at a time. The only caveat I know of comes into play if you forget something that is only partially submerged. If anything happens to cause your exposed steel to rust then the concoction will eat the rust at the water tension line; if it continues rusting it continues to be eaten. I etched a line on a scrape that I left partially exposed in a non-climate-controlled shop with very high humidity; the condensation over a couple days kept up a continuous rust feed. Basically, if it's not fully submerged, just don't forget and leave your blade in for days at a time and I doubt you'll ever see an issue.

A PVC pipe at the right diameter and length, sealed on one end and you could drop your feder blade in and walk away. Come back after a couple of hours and wipe it clean. Deburr if necessary, oil/wax, and you should be done.

If for whatever reason you don't want to use oil or wax they also make a spray-on rust-inhibitor that so far has worked fairly reliably for me.

There is a product called Rust Mort that lays down like a primer. If the rust is just starting in small spots you could try to sand the rust out, apply Rust Mort, and touch up over it. Just a thought, but rust is a total pain in the butt to stop from spreading. Here's a link to the product we've used in the past.

https://www.amazon.com/SEM-69504-Rust-Mort-Quart/dp/B000HI690U