Reddit mentions: The best carpentry squares

What kind of experience are you guys coming into this with?

Do you have mentors/are you yourselves familiar with the use and safety precautions necessary around power tools?

What kind of space are you in? Do you have a dedicated space to use or do you need to move things in and out of an area every meeting?

How much do you want to learn? Are you planning on using primarily Matrix/Tetrix this season or do you want to do custom fabrication?

If you're planning on using chain, I'd recommend getting at least one of these (Dark Soul #25 chain tool). You won't need to use master links again, and they're just in general great to have around.

I would definitely recommend getting Anderson Powerpole tools and items. Definitely get a TriCrimp and associated wire, connectors, and contacts, if you don't have them already.

I'd also recommend a few tools that come in useful just in general when it comes to FTC-- a good adjustable wrench is good to have around, whether you're doing custom or not. A ratcheting screwdriver is also good to have around, in addition to more standard versions. I'd also recommend my personal favorite allen wrenches (you can get just metric or standard sets, but I linked the paired version). For taking care of stuck bolts or anything else stuck, a good pair of locking pliers are also great. Also getting some good pliers for all your electrical needs is a good idea. Also extremely useful is a good square. On a similar note, a level is good for checking whether you actually bolted that part on straight.

You should also get a general set of combo wrenches and some of the specific sizes most common for FTC. Pretty much any reputable brand is fine for this-- don't spend more than about $50 for a set and $10 for an individual wrench (honestly, that would be super high, you should probably target half of that). A decent ratchet set is also good, but not absolutely essential.

Other good things to have around are a heat gun or heat bar (for doing custom plastic parts for your robot). You can do some great stuff with some creativity and some sheet polycarbonate.

To go with that, a vinyl cutter is great for doing sponsor decals and general cool stuff.

As far as "essentials" go, that depends on where you want to go. If you want to do lots of custom work-- or use something like 80/20, then you'll want some other tools to do that work. A good power drill is absolutely essential, and if you have the space, I'd definitely recommend getting a solid miter saw and an aluminum cutting blade (I know some people consider them too dangerous, but with proper safety training and precautions, I've never had a student or mentor get injured with one).

As far as materials for doing custom work go, I'd recommend getting some box aluminum (1x1 and 1x2) tubing, 1/8" and 1/16" polycarbonate (I'm partial to the dark tinted stuff, but it's a bit more expensive), and a full assortment of #6 and maybe #8 hardware. You'll also want some M3 screws for face mounting AndyMark and REV robotics motors. I like to use Copper State for this, because while they have a totally garbage web ordering system, their prices are great, and their website isn't that bad (to be honest, I'm a bit spoiled by McMaster-Carr).

You probably don't need me to tell you what kind of COTS parts might be good (if that's within the scope of this money). Electronics, good phones (not those stupid ZTEs), motors, are all good.


You'll notice that I'm not suggesting the very budget stuff-- while you can go that direction if you need to, quality tools help you get quality results. If you have the money to get and use the right tools for the job, I always recommend doing that as opposed to cheaping out with something you'll just end up breaking and messing up your robot with later.

A decent chunk of the tools I linked are suggested by my personal favorite review site, The WireCutter/SweetHome. I've used the majority of them, and my experience has been good enough that I don't have an issue recommending their suggestions for other tools relevant to FTC.

Hopefully that was somewhat helpful. I'd definitely consider the answers to the questions at the top-- they can help you narrow down what will actually be useful for you. I can definitely give more specific suggestions if you know what direction you're taking with robot building techniques and how much space you have/ whether you have to move.

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

• A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  
• Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  
• A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  
• A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  
• A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  
• Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.
  
  I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.
  
  As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.
  
  Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).
  
  If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.
  
  The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.

New quality hand tools are fairly expensive. It's a niche market nowadays and there's only a few companies that still make hand tools that are worth buying. That being said ~$500 will get you a very decent set of hand tools.
The list of hand tools I'd recommend is;

Layout

• Combination Square - You have two two options here. You can go for something like this which is inexpensive and decent quality. You'll probably find that it will get sloppy and lose accuracy over time but it's a good option to get started. On the other side you can go for a Starrett combination square which is the best money can buy.
  
  
• Bevel Gauge - Brand isn't too important here. Most bevel gauges will be sufficient, just make sure the locking mechanism is easy to use. Avoid the ones with a disk shaped locking mechanism, they're a pain to lock. A bevel gauge shouldn't cost you more than $10.
  
  
• Marking Gauge - In terms of value for money I'd go for the Veritas marking gauge. This is one of the most useful tools when using handtools so it's worth getting something nice to use.
  
  
• Marking Knife - You can either make your own which isn't to hard or buy one. You should be able to get one for around $10. Something like this or this should be okay.
  
  Saws
  
  
• Crosscut Carcass saw - A carcass saw is a good size for general work.It's easily the saw I use the most. It will be a bit slow for ripcuts but it will get you by. A carcass saw can be used to cut most types of joinery such as tenons, dovetails, etc. I think the Veritas saws are great value for money.
  You'll probably want to add a tenon saw and dovetail saw somewhere down the track to cover all your bases. If you wanted to splash out you could go for the set of Veritas backsaws which is good value for money but is a greater outlay.
  
  
• Crosscut panel or hand saw - This is one tool where you might run into a problem buying new. No one makes reasonably priced quality hand saws anymore. You have two options here. You can go for a disposable contractors saw like this one which is cuts well but has a crappy handle. The other option is to buy and restore a vintage saw. Restoring a vintage saw isn't that hard. Theres plenty of guides and resources on the internet about it. Vintage hand saws are pretty cheap, you should be able to get a nice one for $10-$20 if you went that route.
  
  Chisels
  
  
• 1/4" and 1/2" Bevel edge chisels - Narex chisels are very good value for money. I personally wouldn't recommend getting a set. Start out with a 1/4" and 1/2" which are sizes that pretty much everyone will use then add more sizes depending on what you feel like you need.
  
  Planes
  
  
• Jack Plane - For new planes you have three options for brand here; Woodriver, Veritas and Lie Nielsen. Woodriver planes are made in China but are well made and a bit less expensive than the other two brands. Veritas and LN planes are both manufactured in North America and are top quality. By starting out with a jack plane or No. 5 you can cover pretty much any task. It won't excel at everything but it will get you by. A book could be written on exactly what brand and style of plane you should get so I won't go into detail. I would personally go for a Low-Angle Jack from Veritas as it is a very versatile plane,
  
  Drills
  
  
• 10" Brace
  
• 1/4" and 3/8" Auger bits
  
• Eggbeater Drill
  
  Like with hand saws no one makes hand drilling equipment any more. These tools are extremely common on the vintage market though. You should be able to get a brace and a few auger bits for $10-20 and a eggbeater hand drill for a couple of bucks.
  
  
  Misc
  
  
• Mallet - You can make your own or buy one. Style is based on personal preference. I like this type but I see a lot of people using carving style mallets now.
  
  
• Sharpening gear - You can start out with the scary sharp method which has a low outlay compared to other methods such as waterstones or diamond plates. It does have a on going cost so you might want to change to a more long term method later on. Just google "Scary Sharp" and you should find plenty of info.
  
  
• General tools like screwdrivers, hammer, clamps, etc.
  
  There's a million different routes to take when you start out so this advice is by no means the only way to go.

Cool stuff!

Here's one thing- when stacking them improves the sound, I'm wondering if that's just due to having more resonant coupled mass. Try not stacking them but instead put something heavy and rigid (old HDDs, cordless drill battery, a brick, etc) on top of the drives. See if you get a similar effect. Also try putting something heavy on top of the stack...
By resonant coupled mass I mean material that gets the vibrations of the drive transferred to it, and thus helps with putting those vibrations into the air. Thus bolting the drives down to the board will help a lot. But let's come back to that.

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To build your box, you really only need a couple of tools and parts, which I'll link you to now.
Cordless Drill
Cheap Drill Bits
Circular Saw (a jigsaw is also OK)
Set of 4 clamps
Carpenter's Square
Angle Brackets
Wood Screws (probably want some 1/2 inch screws too for the brackets)
A piece of 1x2 wood moulding or similar
A piece of quality 1/2" plywood or MDF
Feel free to substitute whatever's on offer at your local big box home improvement store, it's the concepts that matter not the specific models of things. With that stuff you can build almost anything, your little box will be a snap.

The key with all that- use two of the clamps to clamp the board you're cutting down to the table. Then use the other two clamps to clamp a 2-4' piece of moulding down to the board. The moulding then serves two purposes: Along with the square and a pencil, it lets you draw a very straight and very long line along where you want to cut, and then when you move the molding back a bit (by the exact distance between the edge of the saw's skid plate and the sawblade), it forms a guide for the edge of the circular saw skid plate to slide against, giving you a perfectly straight cut even from a handheld saw.
Note: always cut with the saw facing away from you or your body, and keep your fingers away from the path of the blade! Let the tool do the cutting, don't force it. When you drill a hole for a screw, pick the drill bit that's as wide as the screw shaft (not the screw teeth).

I suggest using more angle brackets to rigidly mount the floppy drives to the casing itself. Obviously brackets that have the hole in a place which holds the drive flush against the casing are preferred. Angle brackets come in all different sizes, and you can always just drill another hole through the bracket if you need to. A larger angle bracket could hold both the upper and lower drive. Or for a stack of two drives, mount one to the inside of the main casing, and the other to the outside of the HDD casing.

-----

Now back on audio. A box like you designed might really help, especially if the back is closed as you're creating a cavity which focuses all the sound forward.

However you should also get a better microphone. If as you say it sounds great in person, well, that isn't being captured well on your video. The video is seriously lacking in bass- floppys make a great raspy bass and that doesn't come over well in the video. :(
I suggest an external mic, something which will stay right next to the drives and enclosure. There are also portable audio recording gadgets which have a good mic built in, I'm thinking something like this.
(Random sidenote- that's why the clapper slate exists, seeing the clap on film and hearing it on a separately-recorded audio track is used to sync up the video with the audio...)

For reference, consider how What is Love has really strong bass, but has a good quality mic right there.
Also production wise- what that guy sometimes does is first record half the drives with the mic right next to them, then record the other half of the drives with the mic right next to them, then sync the recordings and make the two (mono) recordings into the L and R of a stereo track and lay it over the video of the drives moving which is recorded without any microphone...


Hope that helps!

If the bandsaw runs, it should still be useful. You can purchase a new blade if there's an issue with the existing one. The chisels will be fine, but you'll have to learn how to sharpen them. Sharpening systems can be expensive, though.

Otherwise it depends a little on what you want to build.

If I were starting out on a significant budget, I think I'd go with a skil saw, triangle square, tape measure, and drill/driver set. And I'd be thrilled to have a bandsaw & chisels. If you can, buy a good skil saw. Don't too much worry about the quality of the rest.

Those will all be very useful later, too, of course. Might build some sawhorses first and go from there.

A skil saw is really useful for breaking down pallets, as well, in case you plan on making use of them as a source of lumber while you're starting out.

If you want a more specific list, I own these products:

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-312-Powerlock-Tape-Rule/dp/B00002X2GN/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387060&sr=8-5&keywords=stanley+tape+measure

You don't need a 25' tape and a 12' tape is easier to use.

https://www.amazon.com/5280-01-15-Amp-4-Inch-Circular-Single/dp/B01BD81BLO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387078&sr=8-3&keywords=skil+saw

That skil saw isn't the best in the world, but it'll get you pretty far.

https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387123&sr=8-1&keywords=triangle+square

Just a cheap, basic square.

You'll also want some clamps, no doubt. On a tight budget I'd get some walmart cheapies. They're not great, but they get the job done, and clamps are crazy expensive. You want them to be basically like this:

https://www.amazon.com/IRWINQUICK-GRIPOne-Handed-Mini-Bar-Clamp-1964742/dp/B00002244S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497387348&sr=8-1&keywords=woodworking+clamps+hand

But larger (12-36"). And walmart brand is cheaper, I think they're about $3 for a 12" clamp.

Good luck! Ask questions!

If your goals are to do fine woodworking, like interior furniture (that isn't "rustic")...or if your budget is much larger, then you'll be looking at an entirely different set of tools.

Table saw, planer, orbital sander, bandsaw (if yours is no good), bench grinder, miter saw, jointer, in order of importance (to me!). And lots and lots of hand tools. Marking gauge, marking knife, awl, variety of drill bits, counter sinks.

Belt sander, disc sander, jigsaw, router. Router can be way up there in importance if you make good use of it--very versatile tool. I just don't use it a ton personally, and bits can be very expensive.

Here's what I would buy if I were equipping my garage workshop on a budget from scratch today:

• Table Saw - Unless you go for hand tools, this is the absolute core of your shop. Do not buy a new saw for less money than this under any circumstances, because it's false economy and you'll soon outgrow it. You may wish to buy a cheaper used model, in which case you should shop for a Craftsman 113 (aim for a belt drive rather than direct drive) on Craigslist. Spend up to $150 and plan to build or buy a better fence in the first year, which will bring you up to roughly the same capability as the new saws.
  
• Drill and Driver - You need a drill anyway. Everyone does. This is nothing fancy, but it's a tolerable set that should last a hobbyist quite a while, and both batteries and extra tools are cheap. Grab a set of drill bits and a few impact-rated screwdriver bits, or a fancy combo set of both.
  
• Miter Saw - Indispensable for cutting long pieces. You may eventually wish to get a big 12" sliding monstrosity to make wider pieces easier to work with, but you can also do that with a table saw. I suggest an inexpensive variant of the most basic type of miter saw to start, so you've got a good foundation to work from but don't have a ton of sunk cost if you upgrade later.
  
• Circular Saw - You'll use this for breaking down sheets of plywood bigger than your table saw can handle. You can also use it as a stand-in for the table saw for the first few projects. I'm recommending a lightweight cordless model for convenience during these simple, short tasks, but if you work with thick materials you may eventually want a powerful corded one as well - I've got a cordless and then a monstrous 15-lb worm drive saw for heavy duty use. If you just want to split the difference right off the bat and have one tool that's okay for everything and not great at anything, get a basic corded one.
  
• Jigsaw - For cutting curves and small notches. Make sure you get one with orbital motion, but other than that you can go pretty cheap on this because you won't use it that often. However, buy top-of-the-line blades; I really like Bosch blades.
  
• Router - This is a very capable middle-of-the-road router. You'll eventually want to add a plunge base, and might add a lightweight trim router to make edge profiles more easily. You can get accessories to expand on this, or you can eventually dedicate it to a router table and buy new for those other things - the variable speed motor on this is ideal for table use.
  
• Sander - This is the most general-purpose sort of sander, although it's a little on the aggressive side for final sanding. Just hand-sand where you need more finesse until you know what other sanders you might want.
  
• Combination Square - Use this for laying out cuts and holes and stuff.
  
• Speed Square - That blue book will show you tons of neat tricks with this square. Mostly you're going to use it as a short guide for the circular saw, though.
  
• Tape Measure
  
  Edit: Looks like that's about $1,100.00 depending on your local tax rate and how much of it you can slip past untaxed. That's steeper than I expected, but it's also an entire barebones shop for less money than the table saw I really want.

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

• A card scraper. Do your research--they're tricky to sharpen, but they're miraculous things. I like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-5-Inch-474-125-0-80-Cabinet-Scraper/dp/B0001P0PHW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859293&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=bahco+card+scraper
  
• Baby's first hand saw: http://www.amazon.com/Tajima-Japan-JPR-SET-Rapid-Blades/dp/B0008KLNSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859464&sr=1-3&keywords=dozuki
  
  Clamps
  
  
• Amazon is a decent place to buy clamps unless you're into the HD/Lowe's arbitrage thing. There's good advice on what clamps you need here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-big-squeeze/
  
  Measuring/Marking
  
  
• A solid combination square like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-11H-12-4R-Combination-Square-Wrinkle/dp/B0002CSBNO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407857853&sr=8-2&keywords=starret
  
• An inexpensive marking knife: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X201/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Your first festool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UKRNG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• I have some crown marking gauges from Amazon, but the jury's still out. I think I'm going to end up deciding that they're junk. They are cheap and will get you going, though.
  
  Sharpening Gear
  
  
• You can easily spend way more than $300 on a sharpening setup. Do your research. Most of the stuff you'll need can be found at Amazon.
  
• A good starting point sharpening stone: http://www.amazon.com/King-47506-1000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407858723&sr=8-1&keywords=king+stone
  
• Training Wheels: http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407858827&sr=8-1&keywords=honing+guide
  
  Consumables
  
  
• Wood glue--TiteBond II is what "everyone" uses. TiteBond III is more waterproof and gives you a longer open time
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Mineral spirits
  
• Finishing supplies
  
  Safety Gear
  
  
• The best splinter removal tweezers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EMYHA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Band aids: http://www.amazon.com/Band-Aid-Brand-Adhesive-Bandages-Comfort/dp/B0047ITQ42/ref=sr_1_5?s=hpc&srs=2582875011&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859147&sr=1-5&keywords=band+aid+sheer+strips
  
• Safety Glasses, Hearing protection (if you plan to use power tools), Respirator (if you plan to make dust), etc.
  
• Broom, dustpan, brush.
  

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Section 1: Tools

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Note: Just because it is more expensive doesn't mean it is better. You could get by just fine with the "cheaper" options.

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| Tool | Required vs. Optional | Use | Notes | Price & Link |
|:---|:---:|:---|:---|:---:|:---:|
| Tandy Wholesale Membership | O | Allows you to get better pricing at Tandy. | This is definitely optional. Items will cost slightly more without it OR if you have a tax ID you can get the membership with better pricing for free. | $35 / Free|
| Awl Haft | R | The handle which will hold your blade. | This particular haft allows for different blades to be added or removed with ease. | $16 / $35|
| Diamond Awl Blade| R | This is the blade used for piercing the holes in your projects.| This goes in the awl haft.| $4.80 / $28
| Channel Groover | R | Used to measure and gouge channels where your thread will lay. | Some say gouging a channel is optional however I find it to be required. It further protects your thread from damage. | $16 / $80 |
| Overstitch Wheel | R | Marks where you will punch your holes. | This particular overstitch wheel is a few dollars more than the versions that only offer one wheel. | $24 / $225 |
| Edge Beveler | R | Used to bevel and round off the edges of your project prior to burnishing. | Sizes vary. The smaller the number, the smaller the round edge. | $12 / $55 |
| Adhesive Glue | O | Used to hold your pieces of leather together prior to piercing the holes. | Some people prefer binder clips instead of glue. I've found that the clips end up making marks on my projects so I've always stuck with glue. | $6 / $30 |
| Gum Tragacanth | R | Used as a burnishing agent for your edges.| Some people use saddle soap. I prefer gum trag.| $6.40 / $21|
| Harness Needles | R | Used in combination with the thread for your projects. | Avoid the stitching needles. They break very easily.| $5.99 / $7.50 |
| Xacto Blade | R | Used for cutting projects. | You may have one of these at home already. Be ready to have replacement blades handy ($21.95) | $2.49 / $50 |
| Self-Healing Cutting Mat | R | Used for cutting your leather projects.| You may have one of these at home already. If so, you can obviously use that.| $14.73 / $50.80 |
| Cork-backed Ruler| R | Used for cutting straight lines.| I highly recommend the cork-backed version. It will save from accidental cuts/slips.| $4.80 / $14 |
| Burnishing Tool | R | Used in combination with the gum tragacanth to get a good burnish.| A good piece of canvas can be used as well. | $8.99 / $80 + $99|
| Sanding Tool| O | Used to sand down the edges prior to burnishing.| You might have sandpaper at home. Feel free to use that too.| $7.30 / $0 with dremel|
| Steel Square | O | Used for creating nice, even squares/rectangles for projects. | Learn to use this correctly!| $8 / $14|
| Thread Cutters | O | Use these for cutting your thread in the hard to reach places without running the risk of damaging your project. | Scissors work for cutting thread and the xacto blade can work for cutting thread inside your projects -- just be careful! | $3.95 / $39 |
| Maul | O | Used for end punches, rivets, snaps, chisels, or irons. | You really only need one of these if you are planning on doing any of the activities mentioned previously. | $20 / $55 |
| Pricking Iron/Chisel | O | Use these to mark or punch your holes instead of an overstitch wheel and awl. I prefer using the overstitch wheel and awl but others like the irons/chisels. | There is a big difference between irons vs. chisels, diamond vs. lacing. They all produce different results. Definitely ask before purchasing! The ones I linked are very different.| $12 / $259|
| Creaser | O | Used for decorative creases on things like card slots. | Definitely optional and definitely personal preference. | $14.40 / $72 |
| Wax | O | Used for burnishing. Gives the edges a nice seal. | The $10 is my top secret wax I use. I bought a bunch on sale for $5 and it is fantastic. | $4 / $10|

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Depending on what they already have, a craft mat is amazing, a nice craft knife, a tiny square (this is expensive, but you can probably find a cheap one elsewhere. This is honestly such a valuable tool.). A high quality, tiny metal ruler, a .5 or .25 mm mechanical pencil, 1/8" graph paper for making stencils, tiny clamps. If they are super duper into the hobby, this book (in color), is super inspiring. Any of these things would be incredibly appreciated by a beginning miniaturist. You're very thoughtful for researching and supporting your friend.

I assume you have not used hand tools much.

The first thing I would learn how to do and invest in is how to get your tools sharp, like really sharp. I mean shiny flat back and edge razor sharp. Without really sharp tools - hand joinery is not fun and much harder than it needs to be.

There is the scary sharp method, I am sure u/Peniceiling's suggestion works great, I use Shapton Stones, there are as many ways to sharpen as there are woodworkers.

But you will need to research and invest time in some way of sharpening and get good at it.

A simple Honing Guide can make things easier when you start.

This Small Rip Dozuki B. was recommended by the instructor I had for a hand joinery class last year as the best bang for the buck they knew of - I found it works great.

I'd get a 1/2in Chisel. When you get the chisel, it will not be sharp. You will have to spend time tuning it up.

A Mallet to hit the chisel.

I personally prefer a round marking gauge. This has to be sharpened just like your chisel so it cuts the wood fibers evenly and cleanly.

Small Sliding Bevel gauge to mark your dovetails.

A good quality double square is invaluable. Best $ value I have found for one of these is here.

A 2.0mm lead holder with sharpener is very helpful. Lets you mark into areas a regular pencil will not fit.

That would be everything I can think of to do all half blind and through dovetails, finger-joints etc.

A drill(press) and a couple more chisels sizes will get you mortise and tenons with standard 4/4 6/4 and 8/4 stock.

Good Luck.

Here's a good square: https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101CB-Square-Layout-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1504672358&sr=8-2&keywords=swanson+square

Black and Decker isn't currently known for being a great brand, but they have some great prices on cordless tools.
This black and decker cordless drill is a great bang for the low asking price: https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-LDX120C-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B005NNF0YU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504672428&sr=1-4&keywords=drill
The combo with the circular saw is pretty damn good. If you don't need to cut curves, I would pick a circular saw instead of a jigsaw.

Black and decker also sells a cordless jigsaw: https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDCJS20B-Lithium-Jigsaw/dp/B019OF6T38/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1504673042&sr=1-2&keywords=black+and+decker+jigsaw

The Harbor freight aluminum bar clamps are fantastic for clamping larger pieces together, and the smaller steel bar clamps are also fantastic for everything else. You can go with pipe clamps, that will cost slightly more than the aluminum bar clamps, but they will work significantly better.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, money and space are a lot less of a concern. Rather than throw out hypotheticals, I'll give you some examples of tools you can actually buy right now:

Panel saw. Yeah, 10 bucks. It's actually a nice saw too. The only issue is the teeth cannot be sharpened - but it's 10 bucks. Use this for breaking down big stock into smaller stock

Back Saw. Also 10 bucks. Same as above. Disposable but cheap and will last a long time (it's disposable because the teeth have been hardened). This is for precision cross cuts and cutting tenons.

Dovetail/fine joinery saw. 25 bucks plus a 3 dollar xx slim double taper saw file to make it not suck.

Now for some planes. These may seem kind of pricey for "broke" status, but these aren't POS-get-you-by planes. These are lifetime tools. To get something comparable new, you are looking at 150.00 to 300.00 a piece. You can get better deals by bidding on some planes, but these are all "buy it now"

Stanley #4. Needs some love but that's a good user for 30 bucks.

Stanley #5 for 42$

Stanley #7. 90 bucks.

Pick up a 4 dollar card scraper too.

Chisels

Narex $36. Use one of these and a block of wood to make yourself a router plane also.

Combination square 10 bucks.

A cordless drill of some sort and some bits (assuming you have one already)

70 bucks in 2x12's so you can make a knock down Nicholson style workbench which doesn't need vises. When you are done working, break it down and put it in the closet.

35 bucks for a pair of holdfasts from Gramercy

30 bucks worth of F style clamps from harbor freight will get you started there.

14 bucks to get sharp (not at all ideal but completely workable on a budget)

So for 410.00 or the price of a decent sander and miter saw, you can make literally anything in a small space with a small amount of localized dust. The trade off of course it time and labor.

Down the road you are definitely want to get some better saws, maybe some specialty planes, different chisels, some better measuring/marking equipment. But this will more than get you started.

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.

MINIMUM TOOL LIST

$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal

NICE TO HAVE

$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal

WORKBENCH

$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal

GRAND TOTAL

$840

Honestly there's no easy answer to this question. Realisticly all of the squares you have mentioned as well as the square's /u/47Delta1460 mentioned all have different purposes and all of them have their limitations. Now having done woodworking for quite a few years (15+) at this point I would like to recommend owning the following 3 squares.

8 Inch X 12 Inch Steel Carpenter'S Square $7 Pic Link

I haven't used my 16x24 Inch Steel Carpenter'S Square since I got this one which is why it's not on the list.

Empire Level E2994 7-Inch High Definition Rafter Square $16 Pic Link

I like this speed square for three reasons, one it's aluminum and doesn't have the molded in measurement marks so you get a crisp pencil line. Two it doesn't have the notch at the 90º corner you see on most speed squares which allows you to wrap a line around an edge easily. Third you can easily drill a couple of holes at measurements you use often so you can scribe quickly yet accurately if you need to.

The final square I recommend is a combination square Link which can be purchased for $15 - $20 unless you get a fancy one which is honestly overkill in most situations.

Now the reason I haven't made a specific recommendation here is because combination squares come in a couple of different sizes and the size you choose will depend on the types of projects you build. For me personally I own a 6 inch and a 12 inch. the 6 inch square is what I use when checking my table saw for alignment as well as for most projects. The 12" combination square is something I grab most often for marking 45º cuts and it's nice to have a 12" straight edge around.


The short of this is you can get all 3 of these squares and be pretty well set for most things for around $40, which I have to say is quite reasonable.

A miter saw is a great tool. If you're good at measuring, nothing will beat the precision of a miter saw (aka chop saw). It's a great tool to have, particularly if you're doing a project that involves a lot of cutting, like framing out a wall.

This project looks like it only requires a few cuts -- especially if you're getting Home Depot to process the OSB for you. So is it worth it to buy a miter saw for this? I'd say, no, probably not.

A circular saw is a great tool to invest in, and you can get a very good one for under 150. I have a Makita 7 1/4" one that I paid about $120 for a few years ago, and I use it all the time. A circular saw is a powerful tool that I think is essential for any DIYer to master -- once you feel comfortable with it, you will use it all the time. In fact, if you want a challenge, you can use your new circular saw to cut up the OSB, instead of having Home Depot do it for you!

But whichever tool you decide to buy, make sure you don't forget to buy yourself a speed square like this one, to mark out where you will make your cuts.

I will say that he's going to be limited with that workspace, but he can get by with some basic stuff. I also have extremely limited space. I have an outdoor shop space, but since it's not insulated and has no power, I'm very limited in what I can do.

However, here's a good list of things to get.

1. Corded circular saw. I highly recommend this makita saw, it's a good value.
   
2. Metal-body combination square
   
3. Basic chisels
   
4. Workbench with clamps
   
5. Pull-cut dovetail saw -- can also be used for most short-depth cutting work. I use it to cut (or clean up) tenons as well
   
6. Glue. Lots of glue. I like Titebond II for not particular reason.
   
7. As many clamps as your remaining budget can afford. These irwin ones are always popular, work well, and are cheap enough.
   
   Keep in mind that father's day is coming up soon, and tools like these are popular things to be put on sale. Keep your eyes open :)
   
   

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Tools-Double-Edge-9-5-Inch-213103/dp/B0001GLEZ8
> Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=pd_sbs_469_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001DSY7G6&pd_rd_r=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH&pd_rd_w=16INj&pd_rd_wg=gFI50&psc=1&refRID=RBVEGF6TKKCZHVCH7WSH
> Chisels https://www.amazon.com/Narex-Republic-Woodworking-Chisels-863010/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302108&sr=1-1&keywords=narex+chisels
> Marking Gauge https://www.amazon.com/Crown-135-Marking-Gauge-Beech/dp/B00EC9AOZQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_469_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZBYMV8TF850C6M5JDGDG
> Bevel Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC2NYKS?psc=1
> Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though. https://www.amazon.com/Narex-gram-Beech-Carving-Mallet/dp/B00L7BQL54/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302341&sr=1-11&keywords=mallet
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one - https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302407&sr=1-2&keywords=square
> A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) - https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-404-Adjustable-2-Inch-Cutter/dp/B000FK3WI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499302507&sr=1-1&keywords=stanley+plane
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails - https://www.amazon.com/WM125-Workmate-350-Pound-Capacity-Portable/dp/B000077CQ0/ref=pd_cart_vw_2_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CA9X21QD5D7QAXKMGE6S
> Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste - https://www.amazon.com/ATE-Pro-USA-30143-Handscrew/dp/B0006A4A5U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499303583&sr=8-1&keywords=wood+screw+clamp
>
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
>
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

I've built 2 sets of very similar shelvles. My notes:

Make the shelves 8' between the uprights so you don't have to cut out the notches. (or cut the length to whatever the "between" length is).

You need some joists running from front to back to keep the OSB from sagging. Every 2 feet would be fine, but go every 16" for a super super sturdy shelf that can hold really heavy stuff without sagging.

I'd use 1/2" plywood instead of the OSB, though the OSB would work fine (but only with the joists). Plywood is stronger and more stable over time. May not be an issue.

Circ saw is the tool for the job. And a speed square

The other tool for the job is a cordless screw gun/drill to drive the screws. Corded would work too, just not nearly as easy. Use deck screws and no predrilling required.

If you're wanting some new tools, I highly recommend Ryobi's lithium-ion cordless stuff that is common in hardware stores these days. The little cordless circ saw and drill could knock this out easily. I've ripped plenty of plywood with the circ saw, surprising myself how well it works.

Regardless of brand, if you're getting a circ saw, get one that shoots a laser out of the front on the cutting line. Allows you to cut quite straight lines freehanding it.

Have fun!

You might benefit from using one of these.

The right side of the bezel looks like it is cutting off part of the screen (vis: barrels).
That said, it looks great! Love the metal accents. T-molding & Paint will really make it look great.

Consider making something to fill in the gap on the top. As others have mentioned, a marquee might/speakers (speaking of, where is sound coming from, now?) would be a good choice.

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

I actually already have an empire 12 inch already but it's like a degree off. Yeah the starrett ones are sweet but really pricey. I think I may as well invest in it, if I can only afford one would this be a good option?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CSBNO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_bWABub16GPKRE

Or should I go with the other style?

Ooh and the saw is an old Atkins I don't really know much about it. It's like three feet long I think.

depends on what diy goals you have in mind. What I find myself using 80+% of the time when I am doing home diy stuff is some combo of the following.....

• Circular saw for breaking down sheet goods
  
• 
  
• Miter saw for breaking down dimensional lumber and trim cuts
  
• 
  
• Hammer
  
• 
  
• pry bars
  
• 
  
• my demo hammer (see below)
  
• 
  
• clamps
  
• 
  
• cordless drill
  
• 
  
• cordless impact driver
  
• 
  
• side cutter pliers
  
• 
  
• 11-in-1 screwdriver (see below)
  
• 
  
• Channel locks
  
• 
  
• Vise grips
  
• 
  
• socket and wrench set
  
• 
  
• putty knife
  
• 
  
• box cutter
  
• 
  
• tape measure
  
• 
  
• multimeter
  
• 
  
• wire strippers
  
• 
  
  don't forget yard work
  
  
  
• pump sprayer
  
• 
  
• seed/fertilizer spreader
  
• 
  
• mower
  
• 
  
• weed trimmer
  
• 
  
• rake
  
  A lot of those above tools stay in a tool bag I carry around, along with stuff like a pencil, markers, drill bit kit, driver kit, zipties and a few other such items.
  
  For basic tools and power tools for the weekend warrior..Harbor Freight is hard to beat.
  
  For good deals on power tools and air tools that are a of better quality...bigskytools.com has great deals on refurbished dewalt, hitachi, bosch and millwaukee tools.
  
  For your stated goals...I would go with a sander, a miter saw, a circular saw, carpenter square, speed square, a 48" level and a 12" level, and some other small tools I mentioned.
  
  Heres a good miter saw. Will handle everything you will need
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-C10FCH2-15-Amp-10-inch-Compound/dp/B000NKB3LW
  
  Bigsky runs frequent deals on nailer/compressor combos should you wind up doing lots of trim. And frequently they will have a good 15 amp circular saw for around $50.
  
  Speed Square
  https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-S0101-7-inch-Square-Layout/dp/B00002255O
  
  Carpenter / Framing Square
  https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Framing-Hi-Contrast-Aluminum-1794447/dp/B005XUHH5S
  
  wood chisel set
  https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-16-150-Short-3-Piece-Chisel/dp/B00002X1YO
  
  Demo hammer - This hammer is HEAVY but it will chew through just about anything. If you are gonna be doing demo work I strongly suggest getting one...and a big wrecking/demo bar also
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Jackson-Pulverizer-Concrete-Demolition-Hammer/dp/B002IKM6XO
  
  Heres that 11-in-1 scewdriver. i use this thing 99% of the time I need a manual screwdriver. I bought more just put one in my autos and one at work.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Electric-Tool-48-22-2114-Screwdriver/dp/B006WTK436
  
  I know I saved it for last...but don't forget safety gear. Glasses, face shield, gloves and if you are going to be doing dusty work or painting then get some breathing protection.
  
  

You can make a huge variety of joints with just a few tools. This is close to what my toolset looked like when I cut my first dovetails.

Note: None of these are affiliate links. I don't get paid if you buy these.

$28 Dozuki "Z" saw
I prefer western style saws (like the Veritas saw /u/jbaird recommended), but you will be able to cut very nice joints with this:
https://www.amazon.com/Z-saw-07029-Dozuki-Z-Saw/dp/B001DSY7G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495827959&sr=8-2&keywords=japanese+saw+dovetail

$14 Empire combination square
https://www.amazon.com/Empire-Level-E280-Professional-Combination/dp/B000EU0ZB0/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828208&sr=8-4&keywords=combination+square

$10 pocket knife for laying down lines:
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-10-049-Pocket-Knife-Rotating/dp/B00002X201/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828775&sr=8-2&keywords=stanley+knife

$24 marking gauge:
https://www.amazon.com/Crown-152M-Miniature-Rosewood-Mortice/dp/B001V9KOSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495828829&sr=8-1&keywords=rosewood+gauge

$35 chisel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SG70L4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


You could also get:

$49 DMT coarse sharpening stone. Only sharpening stone you need. Get a strop eventually.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001WP1L0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$5 Stanley Coping saw. Will help you remove dovetail waste.
https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-106-8-Inch-Length-4-Inch/dp/B00009OYG2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495829310&sr=8-1&keywords=coping+saw

Provided you're gonna buy lumber that's already prepped, you should be good to go with the above. I'd suggest building things rather than 'practicing joinery'. You'll get plenty of joinery practice along the way :)

Here are some suggestions of good brands but substitute with lesser brand as you see fitted:

• USA made 17 oz hammer: [Vaughan] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vaughan-Stealth-17-oz-Solid-Steel-Milled-Face-Rip-Hammer-15-5-in-steel-handle-and-magnetic-nail-start-RS17ML/206936857)
  
• USA made Nubla deadblow: 2lbs
  
• Germany made [7] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-7-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-180/100668967) and [10] ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/KNIPEX-Heavy-Duty-Forged-Steel-10-in-Cobra-Pliers-with-61-HRC-Teeth-87-01-250/100668982) in knipex cobra
  
• ratcheting screwdriver: wera [Megapro] (https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R2C36RD-13-Ratcheting-Driver/dp/B004VJY1EC/), Williams ...
  
• pry bars: [USA made craftsman] (https://m.sears.com/Craftsman-25-IN.-PRY-BAR-WITH-STRIKE-CAP/p-00943383000P), [USA vaughan] (https://www.amazon.com/Vaughan-B215-15-Inch-Original-SuperBar/dp/B00002N5VN/ref=asc_df_B00002N5VN/)
  
• Japan made [Engineer scissors] (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PH-55-Tetsuwan-Scissors-GT/dp/B005QTRJA4/)
  
• torpedo level, 24in, 48in: USA made or [Stabila] ( https://www.acmetools.com/shop/tools/stabila-1889-4pc-level-set)
  
• metric/sae wrenches or ratcheting: [tekton] (https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-Combination-Wrench-Keeper-Metric/dp/B00OXUPMGK/), gearwrench or better USA made SK
  
• 6 in squares: [swanson] (https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-Tool-S0101CB-Square-Combination/dp/B00SOVRPXW/)
  
• auto lock 25ft tape measure: [Milwaukee] ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-25-ft-Compact-Auto-Lock-Tape-Measure-48-22-6825/304616955), [fatmax] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-FATMAX-25-ft-x-1-1-4-in-Auto-Lock-Tape-Measure-FMHT33338L/204624581)
  
• punches: [dasco] (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-Pin-Punch-Set-6-Piece-22/100155966)
  
• chisel
  
• clamps: bessey bar clamps, quick clamps like [irwin] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-4-Pack-Assorted-Mini-One-Handed-Bar-Clamp/1000914800) , [kreg clamps] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-3-in-Wood-Project-Clamp-3-in-Handscrew-Clamp/1000105667)
  
• foldable saw horses like [these] (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-2-Pack-27-25-in-W-x-32-in-H-Plastic-Saw-Horse-1000-lbs-Capacity/50333339)
  
  power tool, cordless is preferred. Some brands to consider, makita, Dewalt, Milwaukee, Bosch:
  
  
• drill driver/impact
  
• circular saw
  
• jig saw
  
• Reciprocating saw
  
• Oscillating multi tool
  
• random orbit sander
  
• 1/4 and /or 1/2 in router

Hi there! This is pretty much what you would need:

1. Dovetail Saw
   
2. ½” & ¼” Bevel Edge Chisels
   
3. Mallet
   
4. Fret Saw (optional but highly recommended)
   
5. Hand Plane (Smoother, Jointer, Fore, or Block Plane)
   
6. 1 Pair Dividers
   
7. Marking Knife (this can be an exacto knife or specialized dovetail marking knife)
   
8. Dovetail Marker
   
9. Combination Square
   
10. Some kind of workbench or surface to work on.
    
11. Glue (I recommend Old Brown Glue)
    
12. Shooting Board
    
13. Some way to break down your stock, either panel saws/tablesaw/bandsaw.
    
    If you would like some resources for instruction I would check out Rob Cosman's or David Barron's dvd's. If you'd like any more help please don't hesitate to ask!

There will be people that disagree, because to some extent it is about preference, and it also depends on what, exactly you do. Having said that, I'll give you a run down of stuff I either had when I started, or use frequently, or serves multiple purposes, etc.

• Combination square for measuring and marking right angles
  
• Tape measure
  
• Typical wood saw for big, sloppy cutting
  
• Better saw for precise cutting. I like japanese ryoba or type of backsaw
  
• Basic set of wood chisels. Nothing crazy is needed to start, just know you might be sharpening more often until you get better ones
  
• Personally, it really changed my game when I got an old Stanley No. 4 hand plane off ebay and fixed it up. This you might want to wait for and it depends if you want to get into stuff where you'll use it.
  
• Drill.
  
• Electric sander. If it's to expensive to start get one of those sanding blocks where you tuck in the sand paper.
  
• Clamps. You might start with bar clamps from harbor freight. The plastic quick clamps from there will break. The bar clamps aren't too bad. If you can buy better clamps to start, definitely do it, but you can get by on those.
  
• wood glue
  
• 2 part epoxy... when my first joints didn't fit... this helped!
  
• drawer liner. I put it under stuff so it doesn't slip.
  
• hammer and mallet
  
  Other than that, it really depends on what you want to do. I left out power tools except for a drill because when I started I couldn't even afford that and used my dad's. I never like when people give starter lists that include table saws and stuff, because if I had seen that on a woodworking starter list I would have been turned away. You can start with cheap stuff and make good pieces, it just takes a little longer and a lot more elbow grease.

The third method is basically up to you. I can tell you from what I see, and what I am doing now, is simply one or two prints of each image. Size is completely up to you and usually based on the quality of the image of course. That is where you kinda play the game "will this sell at this size?". Usually, the bigger the better in the eyes of the consumer. If it is bigger, they will pay more, if it is smaller, they will pay less.

The third method is best used when you are attempting to grow your profit margin, as in the materials aren't to expensive if you do your shopping.

Here is a good idea of what it will cost you.

Elmers Foam Board 10 Pack of Black - $36.49 USD no shipping w/Prime

x-acto blade for Foam Boards - as low as 9 bucks, this is comes with 2 blades, and will last quite some time

Spray Adhesive - $6 cheaper in store

Cheap T-Square, nothing fancy needed - 4 bucks

Now, the T-Square, and Blade are products that can last a while. All Together you spend about $55 USD, at the swapper, for 8x10's, I saw prints going for $30 and they were selling.

You almost made your money back in one sell.

As someone who's only a few steps further into woodworking than you are, but has done an outrageous amount of research and poured every last spare minute I have into experimenting with projects in my garage over the past two months (no legit furniture projects under my belt yet, but plenty of random shop projects), don't get either of those combo sets. The circular saw and drill are useful, but the rest of the stuff is a waste of money.

Pick up a cheap drill / driver combo (by that I mean a drill that has a chuck that accepts drill bits and driver bits - something like this), some brad-point drill bits, and a cheap circular saw. Then go an aisle over and pick up a long straight-edge and a speed-square. Go a few more aisles over and pick up some wood screws and wood glue. You'll be using the glue more than the screws - in fact, you don't even need the screws - using dowels is more fun and looks nice. If you go with dowels, pick up a cheap flush cut saw and some 80/120/220-grit sandpapers also so you can clean them up. Last, walk a few more aisles over and pick up some 3/4" birch plywood (you can get the sande plywood if you have a tight budget, especially if this is a shop project). Altogether it should be just a hair over $200, if that. Then leave the big-box store and never go back.

That should be enough to put together a few beginner projects. Then, a month later, buy a Saw Stop table saw.

Just kidding about the Saw Stop, but really – you'll outgrow those tools really quick and start needing bigger / more powerful machines. Buy a table saw next (the Ridgid R4512 is a good starting place – price is pretty reasonable, and it's a decent table saw). That opens up a whole new world of possibilities, and soon your wallet will be empty but your garage will be full of toys.

Three putts are definitely part of it...other times it’s just losing it off the tee and a random chunk on an approach shot. I wish I could pinpoint it to just one thing, but it seems like a variety of errors that creep up every week. Sometimes it’s the 3 putts, other times it’s the driver or something else.

Great idea about the putting practice at home. Do you do this on hard wood floor or carpet? Also, is this kind of ruler that you’re referring to: Empire Level 4004 48-Inch Aluminum Straight Edge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YYFV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LsZkDbR9M3M9E ...?

Not needing to lock down after moving makes squareness much easier to achieve.

I just bought this and I love it. highly recommend.

This is what I have been using and it is great - perfect 90 degree corners and straight lines

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Q0YfzbMQW2PYX

Get yourself a nice right angle as well, helps in making sure the cuts are 90°.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X2HQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01

This makes me think that your x-gantry is not squared up properly, or when you were trying to get it square you forced those wheels out of alignment.

Disassemble the gantry from both carriers (you'll have to remove it completely from the z-screw to remove the left side) and adjust the wheels on the carriers first. They should be just tight enough to hold them up vertically but you should be able to slide them up and down with minimal resistance.

Then start the reassembly process. Install the left end of the gantry first, and get the gantry arm as flat/parallel as possible along the base's protrusion towards center. I lay something thick and flat on this protrusion so I can make sure the gantry arm is parallel to it. Slide that end on through the z-screw, etc.

Now when assembling the right side, you have your bolts visible on either side of the vertical track, so you can adjust for level/square from the right side. Do the same method as the left side with aligning the gantry arm with the protrusion that goes to center to get you close to square. Don't completely tighten these right side bolts, though. Measure DOWN from the top of the vertical struts to the gantry arm and tighten the right side bolts completely once you get it squared up. I recommend using a locking combination square, and don't worry about the exact number for distance, just that they are the same.

Through this whole process you shouldn't have touched your eccentric nuts and your base on the right should still be relatively stable.

Empire Level 4004 48-Inch Aluminum Straight Edge

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004YYFV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You put the ball at the one end in the little hole that is punched out. Then you putt the ball down the length of the ruler, keeping the ball on the ruler the entire time.

Whenever I want a golf fix and I can't get out at all, hitting putts over and over down this ruler in the living room while the golf channel is on gets me there. On top of that, it is incredibly helpful. It has also made me aware of so many other aspects of my putting - my stance, grip position, eye placement, etc.

Highly recommend it.

If one is so inclined, they can make most of their own tools...

... but how many hobbyists in this sub are running Festool stuff or cabinet saws for 4 hours a month. Every day I see a "look at my new $1000 toy, how do I make a cutting board" post.

It's not really that major of an expense. This one here is about the same as mine and is only about $80. Realistically one half the size would be more than sufficient for most people. Most table saws will only expose 3-1/2 to 4" by about 6" of blade anyways. A Starrett Combination Square is $77 on Amazon, so it's not like it's a crazy expense.

I do agree with you overall that it is far beyond the precision you need for woodworking. I wouldn't dream of trying to cut joints to the thousandths of an inch. You'd come back the next day and the board would have grown/shrunk. Hell, the "ground" versions of these things are insane and belong in the inspection department of a precision machine shop.

For machine setups, however, I don't think it's a big deal to go a little overboard on precision. A well adjusted tool is like a well adjusted person... Less likely to hurt somebody.

Of course the best reason to have something like this... Sometimes you just need a 40# weight. Don't you want one with a nice handle? ;-)

Normal Tools:

I've found my square tool with a lip on it: This one to be invaluable. I use it every time I craft to make a 90 degree cut.

X-Acto knives are a must when cutting foam (buy a box of 100 blades, foam dulls them QUICK). A box cutter for things like corkboard or cardboard.

A cheap clay set such as this can be useful when working with foam to add different types of impressions. The metal tool with prongs is good for making a wood grain effect.

Tiny hand drill such as This is useful for making small holes for wood posts, jail bars, etc.. I use this hand drill with a 3mm bit I bought elsewhere to put tiny magnets into my work to hold pieces together that are modular or detachable.

Paints:

I like to get house paints from Home Depot for major colors that I use a lot (grey for stone, brown for wood). I get the sample size containers that are really cheap for the amount of paint you get, and the paint is thick enough so you only have to use one coat most of the time. I use dental plaster bricks from Hirst Arts quite often and it takes several coats of cheap paint or just one coat of house paint to get the job done. I mix the house paint with cheap craft white paint for dry brushing highlights. For all the other colors I use the cheap($.50 - $1.00 / bottle) craft store paint. I wouldn't use that paint for miniatures, but works fine for terrain.

Brushes:

Get the cheap ones in a wide variety of sizes. You will be dragging and jamming those brushes into all sorts of places so they will get damaged. I also use the brushes for applying glue to terrain, or latex to wire armatures and they do not survive that process well. I never use any of the ones with the sponge tips.

Jigsaw - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-JS515-Variable-Jigsaw/dp/B001CL4ZHK/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629429&sr=1-3&keywords=jigsaw

Bits - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-71-081-Screwdriving-10-Piece/dp/B000RH3DW8/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629356&sr=1-5&keywords=power+drill

Power Drill - http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-DR260B-8-Inch-Driver/dp/B004FRXWRW/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629356&sr=1-4&keywords=power+drill

Tape measure - http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-115-10-Foot--4-Inch-PowerLock/dp/B00009OYGH/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629447&sr=1-7&keywords=tape+measure

Square - http://www.amazon.com/Swanson-SO101-7-inch-Speed-Square/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1405629470&sr=1-1&keywords=square

You actually will have some more money for clamps and wood to make projects. There's a lot you can make for yourself with just these things and some creativity. Plus, it'll let you be pretty handy around the house.

Buy something that he will appreciate, and think of you everytime he uses it. A thing of beauty that will get used on every project.


https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-C33H-12-4R-12-Inch-Combination-Square/dp/B00002254K

it looks like this https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481037968&sr=8-1&keywords=compound+square

but I think it was my grandfathers prob 30+ years old so I assume its good. I can look into getting a digital one though.

/u/whitetiger and /u/skinslip1 for helping me get through hours of solidworks on plug.dj. All of me, loves all of you.

http://amzn.com/B000ETUNEU , because I needed one in the shop today.

You should check to see what he already has but my suggestions

1. You can't have too many clamps
   
   
2. for a luxury item, you could get him some top of the line marking tools or gauges - i.e. a nice pair of digital calipers or a super fancy combo square - these are things he probably has something of, but you could get him the Cadillac version

Excellent. In that case, you're better off with a gift card to rockler or woodcraft. Because some of the smaller things you can buy at that price range can really be a hit or miss based on what she has and/or her skill level or interests. I'd suggest a starrett 12" square but that might not be the right tool bc she may not care about that level of precision and a regular $15 square from home depot might be enough for her. That being said, Idk of a single woodworker who would not be happy with a starrett square if they don't have one already. haha.

While engineer squares are usually the most accurate, and they're excellent for tool setup, they lack the functionality that a good combo square has.

If you need something that you know is square, find one of those plastic drafting triangles. Since they're cast in acrylic, they're guaranteed accurate, and they wont bend out of square (instead they'll just crack or shatter). Seems everybody I know has one left over from a geometry or drafting course.

Gotcha, yes I know exactly what you mean. Right now I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00290MIWC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For my square. It's nice because the lip is very small - in fact it's smaller than foamcore so it always sits flush. The downside is I have to use it paired with a metal/cork ruler, because you can't really cut along the plastic edge of the square.

I wish there was a square with a metal ruler that would work. I purchased this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EXAAHT2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But it has the same problem you have, the lip is too big.

In addition to saftey goggles, Allen wrenches, an edge finder and indicator, a square set like this.

Very useful if you ever need to set things at an angle. I would try to find a better set, but thats the general idea.

I measured/marked the holes using a combination square. Then I drilled 5/8 holes in opposite corners cut area. Then I used a cheap ($20) electric jig saw to cut out the area as best as possible. I would follow the lines on one side, then flip it over and cut it again. The jig saw blade bends so it cuts on an angle. Finally, I used a chisel to remove excess material and clean up the holes and straighten them out.

Combination Square
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005XUHIBG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1" Chisel (or you can get a set of three for a little more)
https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-M444-1-Inch-MARPLES-Chisel/dp/B0000CBJH8/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1493124918&sr=8-20&keywords=irwin+chisel+marples

Mallet
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00020JNDI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jig Saw
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-BDEJS300C-Jig-4-5-Amp/dp/B00OJ72L84/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493125013&sr=8-1&keywords=4.5+amp+jigsaw

You would use this to draw your line: http://www.amazon.com/Swanson-Tool-SO101-7-inch-Square/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376580412&sr=8-1&keywords=speed+square

Of course you can do any job many ways, but a miter saw is going to come in handy and be a lot quicker and more accurate than using a circular saw. Definitely buy the circular saw first though, because as you say it can do the work of a miter saw plus more.

Some great tips already, but go through and calibrate all of your tools to make sure they are actually cutting at 90 degrees. Also, I know it's expensive, but buying a quality square is worth every penny. It alone has removed much frustration. I recommend the Starrett Combination Square.

I use metric for all small stuff, it’s pretty readily available on Amazon but you’re unlikely to find it locally. I have Mitutoyo machinist rulers (inch/metric combo) and Zona squares.

I didn't see one of these in your pictures, but it would have made the circular saw cuts a whole lot easier.

http://www.amazon.com/Swanson-SO101-7-inch-Speed-Square/dp/B00002255O

The overhang on the back allows you to work with a circ-saw really well and get 90 degree cuts every time. For your table you could have offset it just enough to put your level between the speed square and the saw to use it as a longer guide.

I like this, might just pick one up tonight. I had been considering the Original Putting Alley because it returns the golf ball to you, but I can always use a straight-edge around the house if I do end up with both.

EDIT: ordered tonight, Amazon Prime $7.97

its fine, though a bit small for what you want. good to have for general workshop purposes though

For squaring a rest and platen, or a 123 block.

Framing houses, we always called that tool The Dangle of the Angle.

We also always seemed to do just fine with the old school version:
Johnson Level & Tool B75 Structo-Cast 8-Inch Sliding T-Bevel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5OA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZcvJBb2G04YYB

These things work fine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002N5OA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I’ve got pencils and that very same tape measure.

Looking at this hammer: Stanley STHT51246 20-Ounce Steel Hammer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B5A1VVG/

And this speed square (figure the combination square may come in handy later, only a couple dollars extra): Swanson Tool S0101CB Speed Square Layout Tool with Blue Book and Combination Square Value Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SOVRPXW/

And tool belt:
Bucket Boss 50200 Builders Rig https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK4TZ2E/

And cats paw: Estwing Nail Puller - 12" Double-Ended Pry Bar with Straight & Wedge Claw End - DEP12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015YPJMY/

See any problem with these for starting off?

Speed square + clamp of your choice + cordless saw with metal-cutting blade.

Or use a speed square to mark your cut with a pen and then freehand cut with an angle grinder. Following a line is a lot easier than just winging it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002X2HQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Feckzb2R3AX41

Were you using one of these?

This Maybe?

Non-mobile: Starrett Combination Square

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

This exists already, it's a t-bevel.

Johnson Level & Tool B75 Structo-Cast 8-Inch Sliding T-Bevel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5OA/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_bwlMDbB45W58C

Starrett K53-8-N Stainless Steel Carpenters Try Square, 8" Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ELMS8Q6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ulhKwb30J378A

https://www.amazon.com/Swanson-Tool-S0101-7-inch-Square/dp/B00002255O/ref=sr_1_3_acs_ac_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1539805452&sr=8-3-acs&keywords=carpenters+square

Spend the $7.00 and put one in your toolbox. You will need it again, and you don't want to be "that guy".

Tape measure: as big as you can get your hands on (at least 25 feet)

Combination square: This one is pretty good considering the low price

Chisel: Generally it's good to start with "one big and one small" which admittedly is very vague, but the exact sizes are generally not super critical except for certain specific operations. If you're going to be looking for used stuff at garage sales, really anything will do (as long as both the handle and blade are in reasonable shape from a structural standpoint; rust is not a problem) as long as you sharpen it properly.

Handsaw: For joinery you'll want a smaller saw with lots of teeth per inch (more teeth is slower cutting but a cleaner cut). Eventually, you will want a crosscut saw and a ripcut saw, but you can make do with just the ripcut saw for starters, as long as it's properly sharpened This video explains saws and saw sharpening really well.

Block plane: As long as you flatten the plane sole and sharpen the blade properly, you can use a variety of planes. I like the old Stanley #65 with the knuckle cap, but you can use others too. You might want to start with a low-angle plane to start, because it's particularly well-suited for trimming endgrain to adjust a piece to the exact length, squaring off the ends of pieces, or adjusting a miter cut to a really nice 45 degree angle. There are lots of videos on this on Youtube.

Sharpening: Look up the scary sharp method for starters. Eventually, you'll probably want to go to another method, but the scary sharp is the cheapest to get started with (but more expensive in the long run).

The entire project can be done with these tools:

• Speed square - $10
  
• High tension hacksaw - $24
  
• All in one screwdriver - $5
  
• Bar clamp - $13
  
  Total =$52

It is made of 3/16" black Elmers Foam Board.

The tools I used are:

• Self Healing Cutting Mat
  
• Singer Dressmaker Pins
  
• Wescott Stainless Steel Office Ruler
  
• Aleenes Quick Dry Tacky Glue
  
• Irwin Tools Combination Square
  
• Box Cutters
  
  
  

What are you going to use the #4 plane for? Planing without a solid workbench and vise/hold downs is a chore. Perhaps a block plane or even sandpaper would be enough to get you started?

Square - get the Irwin combo, it's accurate enough for casual use. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Combination-Square-Metal-Body-1794469/dp/B005XUHIBG

That stone is too coarse for woodworking tools. Either use sandpaper like others have suggested, or get the King 1000/6000 https://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O

I would argue that the chisels, while crappy, will make good sharpening practice. Or get the $5 Harbor Freight ones and sharpen them every 5 minutes - at least you'll become a sharpening expert fast.