It's a hair more complex. Most 20-something tech geeks should be fine. If you're the guy (or gal) that people go to for tech help you'll probably be fine. If you're a 60-something that is apprehensive about breaking things, consider something easier.
---------

Most consumer routers have hardware accelerated Network Address Translation enabled by default. The ERX originally didn't have that feature (the hardware was there but the software wasn't written) but they added it in later. Same idea for IPSEC.

---------

So if you can run wire that's the best - it can even be done in an aesthetically mild way.

https://www.amazon.com/Flat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Clips/dp/B00WD017BG

Similarly you can get a MoCA 2.0 adapter to use existing in-place coaxial cabling

------

If you can't run wire then you can try to get a single overengineered 3x3 or 4x4 wireless access point - just know that power output is limited by law in the US/EU/Japan/Australia so you won't get nearly as much of a benefit as you'd think. Think of it as getting one big sprinkler to cover a yard instead of getting the right number of smaller sprinklers and doing it right.


--------



> I'm guessing the AC Lite would be a major improvement in terms of these as compared to consumer boxes like C7 or Nighthawk.

Generally more reliable but lower performance. The Ubiquiti stuff is designed to be rock solid STABLE with OK performance. Imagine having a hotel with one AP every 30 feet down a hallway and there's no on site support. You pretty much just need to have good enough performance a guest won't complain and it needs to be reliable enough that you can leave it alone for the next 5 years.

Linus covers this fairly well. Linus and Wendell from level1tech (split from teksyndicate) both love this stuff. Note that these guys are technerds and I have the feeling they're doing alright on income. (this is a 4 year old video but the ideas are similar, just the newer units support wireless AC)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zw0TKDuv_g4


TWO AC Lites in strategic locations (or an AC Lite and a TP-Link Archer C7 or a C7 + a TP-Link EA225 Access point) will give a better overall user experience in a ~1500-2000 sq. ft. unit than any single wireless router can provide (and you can add in more if you have a bigger place). Wireless performance drops like a rock with distance (imagine signal strength going down to 1/4th every time you double the distance - so going from 20 feet to 40 feet takes you from 100mbps to 25mbps and going out to 80 feet would take you to 6mbps assuming things like walls don't exist and you don't have neighbors with their own wifi units producing signal interference - numbers are illustrative only).

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

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In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> Looking for a great VR while sitting down and have thick-ish glasses. I have an 1080ti, 32gb of RAM and an 8700K.
>
> What is the best sitting experience that's cheaper than buying a vive pro?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eaj43u4/

----

> Hey guys, I built my pc a few years ago but i am now in college and am unable to ship it here. I am about to buy a mid tier prebuilt pc + peripherals for my dorm room. I just want to make sure everything is compatible and i have everything i need, i dont want to realize that i am missing some important cable or something is not compatible. Links below!
>
> ​
>
> Ive already done a fair bit of research so i think im good to go, but just wanted to get some other opinions! FYI I am pretty set on buying everything from amazon. Thanks guys!
>
> ​
>
> PC
>
> ETHERNET CABLE
>
> HEADSET
>
> MOUSE
>
> KEYBOARD
>
> MONITOR

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eajdvc8/

----

> Can RGB RAM be used with any motherboard as long as it's not super basic? I'm helping a friend build but have never used RGB. We're looking at Corsair Vengeance RGB RAM.
>
> Examples of motherboards -
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qXCrxr/msi-z370-krait-gaming-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-krait-gaming
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HLvZxr/msi-z370-tomahawk-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-tomahawk
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ffYWGX/gigabyte-z370-hd3-rev-10-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-hd3-rev-10
>
> https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4hnG3C/msi-z370-pc-pro-atx-lga1151-motherboard-z370-pc-pro

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eajjgd1/

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> I need immediate help please.
>
> I was browsing and got bluescreen "kernel security check failure". Blue screen got stuck at 55% and i restarted. Now pc gets power, shuts down and restarts. And does this continously without reaching bios.
>
> I need to send my homework in 4 hours please help...
>
> EDIT: I DID IT! When I removed the ram, computer didn't shut down immedieatly but it didn't send anything to the monitor. I thought ram died but i inserted it into DIM2 and it works. Any idea why that happened? Is it a problem with DIM1 slot I used for 4 years? I was expecting to buy another 8GB ram and there is no other slot on the motherboard.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak5ikv/

----

> Recommendation for good coolers to at least slightly overclock a Ryzen 5 2600? Shouldn't be over 50€

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak6k6r/

----

> OCing my MSI GTX 970 and temperatures hit 91°C after 2 minutes in Kombustor ?
>
> Hello, here is a screenshot of all the settings : https://i.imgur.com/UcV6hvb.png
>
>
> I first put the power limit at 110%. Then bumped the Core Clock +40Mhz same for Memory Clock until I reached +120Mhz.
>
> The fan stays at 70% but after about 1:45min the GPU reaches 91°C on kombustor and then the fan becomes really loud probably at 100% ?
>
> Is there something I'm missing here ?
>
> SPECS :
>
> GPU : MSI GTX 970 4GD5T OC
> CPU : i7 3770k 3.5Ghz
> * mobo : MSI BIG BANG MARSHALL B3
>
> EDIT : If I put Core Clock at +40Mhz and run Kombustor same thing happens.
>
> EDIT 2 : If I put Core Clock at +0Mhz same thing happens.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak72qo/

----

> Is there a way to make certain programs always launch as high priority in Windows 10?
>
> I ask because I tire of manually setting games to high in the task manager every time I launch them.
>
> Also, I've heard it's not optimal to set games to real-time. What's the reason for this?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eak7x9r/

----

> I got a wierd problem that occurs like once every 2 hours or so: Only the main screen (the other 2 stay normal) goes black/shuts off and then as it comes back takes a sec to readjust the resolution (the screen jumps up half a sec). This usually goes ok with many games (exept it, you know, goes black for a good 3 sec) and comes back exept for AC odyssey which crashes. I have reinstalled the gpu card (gtx 1070) drivers which doesn't change anything.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/a0jn5d/daily_simple_questions_thread_nov_26_2018/eaka5go/

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motionglitch | 207
Excal2 | 164


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Ok I read your post. Wireless can work, but it still needs power or batteries. I'm not a fan of batteries. I like direct power usually Power Over Ethernet that comes from the NVR (DVR). Plug the NVR into a battery backup and you'll still record if someone cuts power at least for a bit depending on the size of the battery back up. Mine stays up for an hour and it's plugged into a $60 battery backup.

How do you spread them through the house. You have some options.

1: Drag the network cables down the hall to the camera and plug in. (ghetto and ugly).

2: Enjoy the agony of attic crawls and do line drops to each camera. Might not be as uncomfortable or difficult as my install but I'm in Florida and I did my install in 90+f weather. Oh and the contractor decided that having random vaulted ceiling vertical drops was a great idea. Think I lost 10lbs in sweat.

3: Do option 1, use some flat Ethernet cable similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=90PBMQPF3NV5GT02Y14E

There is even thinner stuff. You can pull carpet to hide it, paint over it, just run it along base boards, get conduit whatever you decide.

Keep in mind some boxed systems utilize proprietary connections at the camera that make it appear its not your normal Ethernet cable. For the most part rest assured you can cut most of these and if you know how to crimp an RJ45 cable you can extend the cable via a female to female connector although I'd strongly suggest just getting cable long enough here's what the connector looks liks: https://www.amazon.com/RJ45-Ethernet-cable-connector-Almond/dp/B000BSLW8U

I've done about 50 installs for clients and friends (I don't advertise this but after 15 years of working in the IT industry and generally being a geek they become friends, ask and I oblige).

You mentioned you don't have a whole lotta money to spend. I already commented once. Stay away from Zmodo. Garbage.

I despise wifi unless its an impossible situation to install. I work and have been in the IT field for 17 years or so. WiFi is an amazing technology but for cameras. I'll pass with the exception of areas where drilling holes in the ceiling/wall (Historic homes for example) just doesn't make sense. I prefer hard wire reliability. PITA sometimes to install but once the lines there you're good to go regardless if you decide to upgrade in the future. Plus since you have hard wires ran if you wanna drop a hard wire in another room. Cut cable, crimp RJ45 ends on each side. Through a network switch in between and now you had hardwire where you had slow or spotty wifi :)

I find it really silly your hoa doesn't allow cameras. My HOA loves that I have cameras. I've been able to help return a truck full of Christmas presents, blast someone stealing political signs, caught a domestic violence (yea..... I actually live in a wonderful neighborhood but shit happens).

Personally when it comes to protecting, preserving, and doing everything in my power to look after my assets I'd tell my HOA to kiss my ass. They'd probably never even notice the cameras if you use bullet cams outside. So small unless you have those rubberneck type neighbors.

Anywho. Yea read the Amazon description. Some of them you have to pull 4-8 screws and plop a hard drive in. Read the reviews of the systems in your budget. Not just the good stuff, a lot of them are there as positive because vendors will send you a free wifi camera, or some other crap to write it. I admit I did it for Zmodo. Funny thing.... The day the wifi "gift" came in I lost the ability to connect to my system from a computer. Only direct or via mobile app. They're "seeking a fix".... For 3 months....

Any modern DVR/NVR has motion detection and most have the ability to draw a box to blank and area on the video to say to the DVR/NVR (hey ignore motion here) from the camera that may have constant motion (A fan, a highway, TV, etc) to save on drive space and allow you to keep video longer.

Personally I just buy the biggest drive I can and don't mask anything.

It's crazy that I didn't notice my Movado watch missing after a party (yea I'm still a bit young so it happens) at my place for over a month. Wen't back to that night and a buddy actually who was also hmmmm a bit 2 sheets 2 the wind but was looking out for my interests put it on top of my fridge all the way in the back. I run 8 cameras at 720p 24/7 and have about 60 days of video retention on my 4TB hard drive. (They're cheap).

UncleGrga that replied before me is spot on with his comments. Mount your cams outside, the HOA won't notice and if they do say anything you can always move them. Frankly I'm really curious why they won't allow that. Nobody notices my cameras. Trust me..... I've watch my neighbors do the silliest things. (I work from home, my NVR has an HDMI output so while I'm on the computer I keep it up on my flat screen TV just cause. (Well.... I have attractive stay at home moms that like to jog. hehe... Don't judge I'm young and single).

Again I live in one of the quietest unknown tight-nit subdivisions in this county.

Seeing your neighbor pick their nose, pull out a big one (720p cams only see so far and clarity falls fast so it was HUGE) and proceed to wipe it on her hubby's driver side door handle had me rolling.

Was even better watching him go to work.... I know.... I'm a bad person....

If you have anymore questions I'd be happy to reply. You can do this on a tight budget if you research.

Can you hear or see the main room from the lobby? An internet streaming solution is going to have a good amount of lag. So if you can easily move between rooms (or hear one room from another) it will be disorienting. Much better to run direct if you can.

For the venue across the street, do youtube/ustream/whatever.

>We don't have a 1000s of dollars budget but want it to look nice.

The more money you can put in, the better it will look. Sure you can do a webcam, but a webcam has a small lens and sensor. If you can afford a bump up to even a cheap handycam and capture device, things will look better. Plus you get flexibility in zoom with a real camera.

If I had even a small amount of funds this is what I would do:

• Sony Handcam $200 (If you know someone with a DSLR that can do video, even better)
  
  
• Cheap tripod: $30
  
  
• HDMI audio insert: $50
  
  
• HDMI splitter: $30
  
  
• HDBaseT $90 (you can do HDMI over IP but if you are in a hotel/conference center you may have issues with their network. Running it direct makes more sense)
  
  
• Elgato HD60: $160 (PC capture)
  
  
• 4 HDMI cables $5/each
  
  
• 200' cat6: $20
  
  Total= $600
  
  Diagram:
  
  I would highly recommend getting audio from the mixer. Just micing the room is a good way to make it hard to hear on the other end. Hence the audio embedder to get the audio into the HDMI out of the camera.
  
  If you have an extra person to run the camera and get a better shot than just a wide view of the room, that is also a big help.
  
  If you have an extra person, I would put the slides from ppt on the streaming computer as well. Then use OBS (Open Broadcast Studio, free) to display the slides and video to the far site.
  
  

If everything else connected to your home internet is solid, and it's just the Wii U that's being derpy, an ethernet switch with a wired Wii U adapter would be a cheap, bulletproof solution as /u/XAZSplatoon has said.

I'm partial to [Netgear equipment](http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-Gigabit-Ethernet-1000Mbps-GS205/dp/B00KFD0SMC?ie=UTF8&ref=sr_1_5), but anything will work. I prefer gigabit (10/100/1000) switches, just because you can push more data around your local network and they're really not much more expensive than 10/100 ("Fast") older types.

Here's the network adapter you need for your Wii U. Get the cheap white one that's $11. I haven't had any disconnects from matches since using one. The Wii U installed it automatically. I just plugged it into one of the USB ports on the Wii U, turned on the system, and then went to Connections and chose Wired Connection. It's been rock solid.

Get a 5-pack of Cat6 cables. (I'd go minimum 5-ft; you always want to have plenty of length.) Now, you have plenty of cables to run into and out of that switch.

There. For like $45, you just vastly improved your network at home. You can sell it as that to your dad. Offer to pay for some, all, or at least the Wii U adapter yourself to sweeten the deal. Also, all the stuff I just linked is top quality for a great price, so it will be great to use for all sorts of things network-related in the house or anywhere pretty much indefinitely. You and your dad will probably find ways to use all the ports on that switch pretty quickly.

Again, this will solve it if everything but the Wii U is generally solid, connectionwise. If the connection to other things is squirrelly, we can go further and talk about routers and such, but it sounds like this will be sufficient.

So I literally have a team at my house this very minute as I type this cabling my house with cat6. Now I have worked in IT for over 18 years and have punched down and ran cable in business but thats easy compared to a house and I didnt want to do it myself plus I have the money at this point to have some professionals do it. Anyway back to your question - I have always used Leviton inserts and punched them down but these guys showed up with Keystone Jacks that are effectively couplers which I was not expecting. So in your case this is what would actually work for you. Normally, you would use some inserts at the end of your cables and punch those down and put them into the patch panel BUT.. since you want to extend - you just need to use the same couplers that these guys are using.

​

So you get these couplers, one for each cable, as well as an RJ45 connector. You punch down the RJ45 connector to each cable. Then connect that to the coupler, then you are set. THEN another RJ45 connector on the end of the 6ft extension to regular Keystone jacks, put those keystone jacks into the patch panel. Thats your best option and gives you everything you need..... also at that point you say you need to extend 6ft but with this you can extend alot further as well giving you flexibility.

​

Cat6 Female to female like this:

Couplers

​

Rj45 Connector:

Rj45

​

Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.

http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping. Patch cables are super cheap, are certified for the speed, and in most cases save you time and money vs crimping your own.

Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.

http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE

https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

> I can afford it, I'm just trying to have the highest quality cables for my needs.

It's your money and I don't care what you spend it on. I'm just trying to share some wisdom with you.

Three of the largest manufacturers of premium ethernet data cabling are Panduit, Belden and Commscope.

When Amazon's new Headquarters is built, I'll bet money one of those 3 manufacturer's product will be used to wire the facility.

Ok? This is the top-shelf best stuff in the industry.

https://www.commscope.com/Product-Catalog/Cables/Product/Twisted-Pair-Cables/

https://www.panduit.com/en/products/copper-systems/bulk-copper-cable/enterprise-data-center-copper-cable.html

https://www.belden.com/products/enterprise/copper/cable

None of these top-shelf, premium cable manufacturers offer CAT8 cabling.

Look at the manufacturer names of the CAT8 cables you are looking at on Amazon.

Who the hell is GLANICS ?
Who ever heard of Dacrown ?

These are cheap-assed fly by night junk dealers who are taking your money.

I acknowledge that we aren't talking about huge sums of money, but they are taking it nevertheless.

1Gbps ethernet works just fine over CAT5E cabling. CAT5E was designed for 1Gbps performance.

CAT6 took CAT5E's enhancements one step further and increased the twist-rates to better tolerate rough handling and improve EM interference. CAT6 can handle 10GbE over short distances, and 1GbE all the way out to 100M, in accordance with the ethernet specifications.

CAT7, CAT7A and CAT8 do not offer any additional performance benefit for 1Gbps operation.

They offer improved distance limits for 10, 25 and 40GbE applications. Which you don't need.

The cost increase to go with CAT6 over CAT5E is usually less than a dollar.

The cost increase to go with CAT7 or 8 is often as much as double the cost, or more, and it offers no benefit to 1Gbps operation.

If you want to pay double the cost for a cable manufactured by a lower-quality organization, using lower-quality components, you go right ahead.

But you are falling for false or misleading marketing.

These are all you need:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-RJ45-Cat-6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable-5-Feet-1-5-Meters/dp/B00N2VJ2CG/

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Cat6-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B001V7YH4G

But what do I know?
I just design & support networks for a living.
You do you.

>Personally, i'd opt for this instead of that tp-link plastic one. It's a few bucks more, but has a great track record.
http://www.amazon.com/Netgear-GS105NA-Prosafe-5-Port-Gigabit/dp/B0000BVYT3/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347764&sr=1-3&keywords=5+port+gigabit

Same guts? I picked the plastic... cus Im cheap but mostly because I think the front ports look sloppy in a HT cabinet or on a desk.

>The CMR looks good, though monoprice wire is cheaper for the same quality (spend some of that difference on the metal 5 port gige switch I pointed out above):
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1000-Feet-500Mhz-Copper-Ethernet/dp/B008I8AJIY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459347852&sr=1-1&keywords=monoprice+cat+6+cmr

Thanks! swapped for monoprice

>I would also recommend against crimping your own cables. Solid core is not meant for crimping.

ok then, I really wasn't looking forward to crimping a dozen cable but I felt like Ill have so much cat6 it would be a waste not to make my own.

>Get this punchdown tool, it has both 110 and krohn. A lot of punchdowns are universal, and with those, the krohn works better.
http://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-Punch-Krone-Blade-TC-PDT/dp/B0000AZK4D/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459348192&sr=1-1&keywords=trendnet+punch+down+tool

So what your saying is most of these keytones labeled 110 will except a krohn style punch? Id like minimize my cost and the 110/66 punch I linked is basically in my hands, its still worth going with this other tool?

So should I bother with the crimper/rj45 ends at all? Just buy a pack of 3ft patch cables and be done with it?

>Source: I built this and wired my house to 1GigE
https://imgur.com/9vhZYS1

nice rack (giggity)

i'll join the chorus.

a RG6 and a Cat6 cable in the wall on either side of the door, will usually be sufficient.

if you want to be generous, run 2 network cables at each point, in case they are older tenants that want a land line.

i'd recommend using a 3 port keystone plate.

for the living room, i'd do the same setup, but on opposite walls as the main walk through.

if you want to be a hero, you can put speaker wire for rear channels, they make keystone speaker jacks. you'd spend like $30 for the jacks and some 14/2 wire, and let future tenants have rear channel speakers w/o tripping over the speaker wires. so you'd get a 2 speaker plate for both walls, and run a pair of 14/2 stranded cables between them.

as others have said, run all of these cables (except the speaker wires) to a closet somewhere and land them on a coax splitter and a network punch down block, both of which can be had pretty cheap. if you want to get fancy you can get a low-voltage panel than nails in between the studs and keeps everything nice.

what you REALLY want to do, is get some 1" ENT (smurf) and install that from the closet, out to your demarc on the outside of the building. so that jack ass cable companies and phone companies don't drill your building full of holes, and instead can pass their wire in the tube to your closet.

​

monoprice has great prices on bulk cable, and one wall plates.

ethernet patch panel https://www.amazon.com/Dshot-network-Mount-Surface-Patch/dp/B00NUXCHE6/

coax splitter https://www.amazon.com/EXTREME-BALANCED-PERFORMANCE-HORIZONTAL-SPLITTER/dp/B00TNZ4J9Q/

​

leviton and ON-Q both make convenient structured wiring cabinets.

https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Q-Enclosure-ENP3050-Structured/dp/B07FK58QY2/

you'll be locked into their ecosystem for the cable splitters, etc, that fit into the cabinet, but they make a very tidy package that you can easily nail into the studs and know exactly where to pull all your wires to.

It's not too terribly difficult, honestly. I enjoy it. There's a bunch of ways, but here's some tips that I have figured out.

• Label your cable ends (either use a label maker or just get one of these booklets).
  
• Two people make it go more than twice as fast. Buy pizza for a friend.
  
• Leave the cable box at the source, pull cable to the destination.
  
• Get a set of fish sticks for sending wire down/up walls. Buy a couple of rolls of electrical tape, too, for taping wire to the fish sticks.
  
• Measure to the same height as the electrical outlets in the wall for a clean look. Get the same color faceplates and keystone jacks as the electrical system already has.
  
• Make sure you use a stud finder with AC electrical alerting before you cut.
  
• When you are ready to cut a hole in the wall, take a wall box eliminator, flip it backwards, and trace the inside with pencil. Then cut with a utility knife. I find that a dremel saves time but creates a LOT of dust, and really isn't that much easier.
  
• Pull the cable (or fish stick) through until you've got a good 2-3 feet sticking out of the wall. If you think you're EVER going to need more than one jack in this room, run it now (it is easier to buy two boxes of cable than one, and run two cables simultaneously).
  
• Put the wall box eliminator in the wall, and fold the tines back / screw the holders in (they all basically have some mechanism of "grabbing" the wall, to give you a hole in the wall with the two faceplate screw holes like an electrical wall box has, but without the box - which is safe because it's low voltage (don't do this for real electrical work!!!))
  
• Cut off the first 6 inches or so of the cable with your dikes, because it might have been fucked up being taped to a fish stick and rammed through the wall, etc.
  
• Strip off the outer jacket of another 4-5 inches using your cyclops stripping tool.
  
• Terminate into the rj45 keystone jack using a punchdown tool.
  
• Even though, technically, as long as the jacks have the same wiring pattern on both ends, in America, we use EIA/TIA 568-B as our wiring standard. This will be displayed on the side of your RJ45 jack.
  
• In your wiring closet, leave a loop of 6 feet or so (for future upgrades/troubleshooting), and then terminate all the cable ends into a labeled patch panel.
  
• Pop your RJ45 jack into the keystone hole in the faceplate. (tab down, you don't want dust to settle into the wire contacts), and screw in your faceplate. Label it, if you can do so and it looks nice ("Living Room 1", etc) so it corresponds to the patch panel in the basement/closet/etc.
  
  Congrats, you've run a cable! It's female at both ends, so you can just use a patch cable to run from the wall to your PC, and from the patch panel to your switch, to your modem/router, etc. This wire is now a part of the infrastructure of your house - you won't have to cut anything out when you leave, you just unplug the wires and leave the infrastructure for the next person.
  
  Hope this helps.

Hey guys, I built my pc a few years ago but i am now in college and am unable to ship it here. I am about to buy a mid tier prebuilt pc + peripherals for my dorm room. I just want to make sure everything is compatible and i have everything i need, i dont want to realize that i am missing some important cable or something is not compatible. Links below!

​

Ive already done a fair bit of research so i think im good to go, but just wanted to get some other opinions! FYI I am pretty set on buying everything from amazon. Thanks guys!

​

PC

ETHERNET CABLE

HEADSET

MOUSE

KEYBOARD

MONITOR

> i bought a 25 foot ethernet cable from best buy

Go onto Amazon and get one. When it gets there, take that one back to Best Buy and then go get something to eat with the money you just saved.

Really Inexpensive One
Really Nice One
Lots of other options that won't rape your wallet

Both are probably cheaper than what you paid for that 25 footer from BB. They make a TON off of things like cables, chargers, etc. Those Monster Gold super bad ass "PRO" HDMI cables for $100+ are a complete joke. They're no better than $10 HDMI cables from Amazon.

Source: Ex-Best Buy tech.

I'm a renter - I've learned to get ethernet all sorts of fun places without taking the hassle or expense of running cables through walls and under floors.

Step 1 - What you need:#

Buy 100 ft. of flat, white, Cat 6 cable - something like this will do.

You'll also want some white gaffer tape. Be SURE you get gaffer tape, and not duct tape. It's just strong enough to string up cable, and won't peel paint. Something like this.

Pour yourself a glass of lemonade. We'll come back to this later.

Step 2 - What to do:#

Here's where you get to be creative.

Find the crown moulding where the walls meets the ceilings and floors of your house. The little creases are perfect for disguising that thin white cable. I have hundreds of feet of ethernet going all over my house, and it's practically invisible. If you don't have crown moulding, improvise. Match the tape to your paint colors on your walls. Take your time, measure twice, and an extra pair of hands is always helpful. Be sure to be gentle with Cat6, especially with sharp bends and corners.

You also might want a couple ethernet switches on either end, depending on what your needs are. I've had good luck with TP-Link switches, they're fairly affordable, but people don't seem to like them very much around here.

Step 3 - Drink that glass of lemonade from earlier.

'Cause you're done, baby. Enjoy your gigabit LAN.

P.S. If you've got any more questions or whatever, shoot me a message. This sub is a VERY helpful resource, too.

You'll be cutting it close with the max length for cat6, but hopefully should be OK if you keep it less than 100 meters. Quick search found this cabling which should be fine w/o PVC: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Ethernet-Waterproof-Direct-Underground/dp/B00GYGQ31E
As for your the wifi in your trailer, the best solution is to set the router to access point mode which when connected would act as an extension of your home network. You may need to set an IP manually to manage it if it doesn't get one automatically. If that's not an option or you want your trailer to have a separate network you'll need to assign it an external IP on your current network (192.168.1.2 for instance) and make sure the DHCP settings are set to something different. (ex. 192.168.2.0/24)

thank you for the list

I am still researching DORI and differences between cameras, but from what I gathered so far here is what I need:

• blue iris $70 (with a phone app)
  
• pc (since it only supports windows) likely i7-6700 something like this
  
• PoE switch: something like this
  
• router, I have an old lynksys with dd-wrt which should do it
  
• several very long ethernet cables with some couplers
  
• most likely also a UPS
  
• ONVIF, PoE cameras
  
  the last bit I am still looking at. I am not ready to spend several hundred dollars per camera (one of your examples is Dahua 2MP Starlight which seems to be super expensive). While I understand it might be much better than the rest, I'd like to see if I can be in a $50 to $100 dollar range per camera. Is there any such cameras you can recommend?
  
  I can see some (ONVIF, PoE): Hikvision 4MP, ONWOTE 5MP, ONWOTE, 4X Optical Zoom Autofocus, Amcrest ProHD, GW Security 5, JideTech PTZ, etc. but I am not sure how to gauge the quality.

Well it depends on what you are getting, but I don't think that is too bad of a price if you are getting a decent size patch panel and the labor of punching everything down and mounting the wall plate. Patch panels are always going to be a better option than having a bunch of random cables that are individually terminated haphazardly run to one area. The main advantages are that all the cable runs (to each wallplate) have their own individual port on the panel and you can label that panel to know where the cable goes to if a problem may arise, you never touch the actual cable in the wall, you only use a patch cable to go from the patch panel to a switch so there is little to no chance of physical damage if for some reason you have to troubleshoot the connections and it's just overall much better aesthetically and logically speaking. The one thing to remember when using a patch panel at home is that you are going to need a patch cable for every port used on the patch panel to go to your main switch and that means you may need a larger switch than you may current have or that your home/consumer Wifi Router may have, so you should plan according to what you anticipate you will need in the future (I generally recommend buying 1.5-2x the # of ports you need right now to allow for future expansion, but this depends on the household, users, tech savviness and your overall needs).

Keep in mind that there is probably some significant markup on what he is charging you for the panel but at the same time that's expected if you do not provide the hardware. Amazon has lots of patch panels for comparison in all sizes. Personally I would plan for 2 runs / room to the same wall jack for redundancy, but it's generally overkill for most people's homes.
https://smile.amazon.com/Dshot-network-Mount-Surface-Patch/dp/B00NUXCHE6/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543300284&sr=1-10&keywords=patch+panel

I do have to say that the OCD in me is calmed when I see great networking jobs like this (the white devices are the switches, the black panels with the RJ45 ports are the patch panels):
https://content.spiceworksstatic.com/service.community/p/post_images/0000284828/5a29bb6f/attached_image/idf.jpg

If you want the best speed, run a Network cable directly from your PC to your router:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Black/dp/B007NZGPAY/

I noticed your router only support 802.11N (WiFi 4). When you get a new router, make sure it supports at least 802.11AC (WiFi 5).

As far as your current wifi adapter problems go, make sure you have current drivers, also make sure they match the hardware version of your adapater (V3, V4, V5, or V6).

https://www.tp-link.com/us/support/download/tl-wn821n/#Driver

If you decide to not get the network cable, or you want to stay wireless, here would be a good upgrade for your wireless adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-USB-AC68-Dual-Band-Adapter-Included/dp/B01I7QFR10/

The blade needs to be straight for it to cut properly, another department where I work has one and when I used it I noticed the last wire on one end wasn't being cut all the way through even fully squeezing the crimpers. I straightened out the blade and retightened it and it works fine.

The one I purchased for myself cut perfectly out of the packaging and I haven't needed to mess with it in the 6 months I've had it.

I understand if you don't want to buy this stuff for ONE cable, but if you have any plans to make cables in the future be it at this job or another, I cannot recommend the EZRJ-45 tools enough. They are a huge time saver and they are worth every penny.

I also buy the clear boots

http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100036-EZ-RJ45-Strain/dp/B00939KKX6

and I use these on pretty much every cable I make.

It brings a very professional look to the cables imo

Here's the end of a patch cable I made yesterday with all said tools.

http://imgur.com/a/NNdHX

The handles on the server chassis may get in the way. If it slides in, guess that be good enough. just won't be flush due to the screws holding the shelving in. I could look into swapping out the handles on the server chassis from 4u to like 1u or something, then it can become flush. This need 1u of free space on the bottoms of where the handles goes. I have come up with a list of parts.

 

Rosewill 4U Server Chassis / Server Case / Rackmount Case, Metal Rack Mount Computer Case support with 15 bays & 7 Fans Pre-Installed (RSV-L4500)

Requires modifying from HDD setup to GPU Setup to save money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091IZ1ZG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

NavePoint Adjustable Rack Mount Server Shelf Shelves Rail Rails 1U (33.25" max depth)

https://www.amazon.com/NavePoint-Adjustable-Mount-Server-Shelves/dp/B0060RUVBA/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518819818&sr=1-2&keywords=1u+shelving

 

Tripp Lite 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack, Network Equipment Rack, 1000 lb. Capacity (SR4POST25) 22" to 36" depth

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OB8T72/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Cat 6 is perfectly fine, as it can support up to 10Gb, so its pretty future proofed as 1Gb is still the standard. We won't see 10Gb becoming the norm for a while.

As far as cable, I usually get it from Monoprice, or sometimes from amazon. I just bought a 1000ft spool of Cat6 for like $65

If you are putting drops in each room, its probably best to put in wall plates, and punch down the cable to a jack. You'll need a Punchdown Tool for this.

I'd highly recommend running all the cables to a patch panel. Ideally have them run to the same location as your modem and other networking equipment. You'd use the same punch down tool here as well.

If you need to terminate any cables to a normal Ethernet connector, it isn't difficult, but it is a bit tedious. The first one you do will take you a bit to do, but once you get the hang of it, each one will become a little quicker. you can watch a youtube video on how to do it.
You'll need a Crimping tool to crimp the ends on.

Most likely the previous owner was trying to do something with phone lines, but he should have just used the phone distribution device already in the box.
Your plan will work just fine, but I would recommend that you terminate the cables onto a patch panel (such as this one http://www.amazon.com/Intellinet-12-Port-Wall-mount-Patch-560269/dp/B000BSJJ1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396316125&sr=8-1&keywords=patch+panel ). Using a patch panel would be a better long term solution, the wear and tear will be on the short patch cords you use to connect to the switch, instead of on the in-wall cables.

Personally I run the wired ethernet and it works flawlessly. Almost any wireless router should have fast enough ethernet to make Steam Link run perfect. I have white walls so I just use the flat white ethernet cables that come with wall/ceiling tacks and run them across the ceiling to my steam link. Took me about ten minutes and $11 worth of supplies. Plus, no one has ever noticed the cables unless I pointed them out, to which they are always like "Oh wow I didn't even realize they were there"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017GQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah sure. I've done some thorough research recently. Prices jump up and down daily though. I'll try to keep the options under $120 with rebates and whatnot.

Was $109, wait on restock - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKDFL4O/?tag=dislag-20

If you really want 1 ms and 10 ms of input lag - http://www.bestbuy.com/site/asus-21-5-led-hd-monitor-black/5386140.p?skuId=5386140

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018MYT3YO/?tag=dislag-20

Best monitor for $130 possible - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANKMNXO/?tag=dislag-20

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-VS247H-P-23-6-1920x1080-Monitor/dp/B005BZNDS0/ref=sr_1_43?s=pc&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1500304420&sr=1-43&keywords=monitors&refinements=p_n_size_browse-bin%3A3547805011%7C3547806011%2Cp_36%3A1253506011%2Cp_n_condition-type%3A2224371011%2Cp_85%3A2470955011

Was $100 yesterday - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DWITHI/?tag=dislag-20





I'd recommend wired btw.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R12IXG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I went with CAT6. But honestly, 6a might be a better choice. How long do you plan on living here? How easy will it be to run new cable later on? I went with 6 because 6a was not widely available when i did this... But if you plan on using 4k anytime soon, that takes up a LOT of broadband!

This is what i bought:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7GEZEE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Why not just run long 50-100ft ethernet cable along side of your walls on floor and hammer it using wire mounts to make it all flush and hidden? It's what I did and came out nice and out of the way. Ethernet is pretty cheap on amazon you can get 100ft of cable for next to nothing https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-jadaol-Internet-computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1474607075&sr=1-6&keywords=100ft+ethernet worth a try for 20$, may want to be something you look into as only way to get true 1gpbs.

Sorry for the late response, but this is easily the best wireless connection ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

Sure, but it will be best to show your parents before actually doing it.

I know this is US amazon but this is an example of flat ethernet cable https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

Not including the length between the Linkbox and the Vive, just the length between the Linkbox and my PC, I'm at 50ft (15m)! I'm using this HDMI cable, this USB<->Ethernet converter and this Ethernet cable at a total of just over $100.

Everything works great except the front camera only works when I skip the Linkbox for USB and plug my Vive's USB right into the extender. You can skip the USB for the Vive and plug it right into the USB<->Ethernet converter and still plug the Linkbox USB right into the converter and everything works great :).

This was a simple cluster, not really designed for running a lot of VMs. We run 3 AD servers, a File Server, and one server for a special piece of software. That's a total of only 5 Windows 2008 R2 VMs, but you can see that it can handle much more.

>SAN $230: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RACKABLE-2U-SERVER-S5000PSL-2-x-INTEL-QUAD-CORE-L5420-2-5GHz-16GB-1TB-SATA-/121402377113?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item1c44254399
x2 VM Server $1200: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-PowerEdge-C1100-CS24-TY-1U-2x-XEON-QC-L5520-2-26GHz-4xTRAYS-72GB-DDR3-/261355969100?pt=COMP_EN_Servers&hash=item3cda079a4c
SSD $75: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX100-adapter-Internal-CT128MX100SSD1/dp/B00KFAGD88/
x2 Boot Drives $206: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST3000DM001/dp/B005T3GRLY/
x2 Storage Drives $280: http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-ST4000DM000-3-5-Inch-Internal/dp/B00B99JU4S/
x3 Batteries $300: http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1000AVRLCD-Intelligent-1000VA-Mini-Tower/dp/B000QZ3UG0/
Shelf $31: http://www.amazon.com/Odyssey-ARS2-Space-Shelf-Accessory/dp/B0002DV0GI/
Server Rack $281: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/
Microsoft Server 2008 R2 $695: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-Standard-Packaging/dp/B00H09CF70/
x2 Microsoft Server CALs $298: http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-Server-2012-OEM/dp/B0093CBTOM/
Switch $66: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DELL-POWERCONNECT-2716-USED-/251627465136?pt=US_Network_Switches&hash=item3a962a69b0
Firewall $90: http://www.amazon.com/EdgeRouter-ERLite-3-512MB-Ethernet-Router/dp/B00CPRVF5K/
Rack Screws $27: http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SRCAGENUTS-Enclosure-Hardware/dp/B001DW8J5C/
Drive Converter $15: http://www.amazon.com/Icy-Dock-EZConvert-2-5-Inch-Converter/dp/B002Z2QDNE/

That is the full setup from the rack down to the software licenses that runs 144GB RAM and 4TB usable drive space on ZFS with a 128GB SSD Read cache. It falls short of $4k. We use XenServer and OpenIndiana.

That's only two VM servers, but every VM the client needs can easily run on one in case of a failure. Just thought I would share this setup to show that it is feasible to price a VM cluster out at under 6k. This is not the cheapest build I've done, but definitely near it and much smaller than I would recommend for most people. It is actually smaller than I recommended for this client, but it is what it is.

I'm looking at buying Jadaol's flat 50ft Cat6 on Amazon, here

The reviews seem pretty good, does it seem like a decent quality that isn't one of the poor-quality ones you describe?

Saw this on Slickdeals, hopefully it helps you all as much as it does me! While your at it, change your amazon smile to the EFF to help fight for net neutrality!



25' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$4.58 w/ promo code RR99ROJL

https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B018BCJKE0/



50' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$6.09 w/ promo code CQTGWYYH

https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/



100' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$10.48 w/ promo code TWEGP5DO
https://smile.amazon.com/Flat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Clips/dp/B00WD017BG/





50' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (Black)
$6.09 w/ promo code H2CHE27H
https://smile.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-Black-Connectors/dp/B00WD017FW/




6-Pack 1' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$5.96 w/ promo code BW7VDF6M
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGI0O




6-Pack 1' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (Black)
$5.96 w/ promo code MDJ5FGIM
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGKQ6


***

3-Pack 6' Cat 6 Ethernet Cable (White)
$6.34 w/ promo code 89QBRPS2
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01IQWGRPU

Well this stuff is CCA and not ideal, but for what you're doing it should work fine:
Cat5e: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Waterproof-Outdoor-VIVO-CABLE-V011/dp/B00GYGNCPO/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1485195798&sr=8-15&keywords=cat5e+waterproof

Cat6: https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Ethernet-Waterproof-Direct-Underground/dp/B00GYGQ31E/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485195187&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=cate5+500ft

Anything that is bury-ready should last quite a while as long as you don't accidentally cut it with yard care equipment. Think aerator or something similar.

edit: added cat5e/6 options

A wired connection is substantially faster than 2.4 and 5ghz. Not only in greater bandwidth but also with less delay over the Network. It also won't be slowed down by other wireless devices as much. I highly recommend wiring any device that has the option, WiFi is really only for things that don't have a LAN port or need to be mobile - as far as I'm concerned.


Any rj45 Ethernet cable will do the job, typically CAT5e or CAT6. Just a quick Amazon search; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ

That one is kinda long at 50ft. But it'll give you an idea of what to look for. I would just look at items that have lots of good ratings and you'll be fine.

As far as racks go, you can get a standard 45U rack pretty cheap off of ebay because companies surplus their old ones. I've looked for months for a cheap small one (16-25U) and haven't found one under $200 or so. As far as buying new, this is the best deal I've found (for a 4-post rack, which you want for servers as they get heavy and can tip with 2-posts):
http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SR4POST25-Cabinet-Capacity/dp/B004OB8T72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416882880&sr=8-1&keywords=server+rack

You could even do this with a cheap option but way more effective option -> an unmanaged 5-port switch like this one from D-Link for only $15, and buy a 5-pack of 5ft Cat6 ethernet cables like this one from Cable Matters for only $11. This would be plug-in-play (minus configuring static IPs on your PCs). Only having the switch assumes you don't need the Internet.

If you need the Internet (and/or don't want to setup static IPs on your PCs), go for a cheap wireless home router like this one from D-Link for $30.

Most ethernet networks have range of 100m without requiring a repeater or switch. That's a LONG WAY and almost certainly further than the location of your hub from your room.

Here is a really long ethernet cable for $30. I'd recommend actually measuring the distance and planning it with your parents.

In my house I ran cables from the attic down into the walls by the hub and in each room. You can either have the cables stick right out of the wall, or if you want to be nicer about it, cut open the cable and wire them into a wall plate, patching them into your PC with a short cable. Here is a howto video. In the video he has a cable TV jack right next to it, and if you have something like that you don't even need to cut a new hole in the wall; you can just use a dual plate like this one.

Pro tip for laptop owners:

• go to Control Panel => Network and Sharing Center => Change Adapter Settings
  
• hold the ALT key, click on Advanced on top => Advanced Settings
  
• you'll see your wifi vs. Ethernet. Click on Ethernet and click on the up arrow to move it to the highest position
  
  What this will do:
  
  
• when you're plugged in, you'll always use Ethernet
  
• when you're not, it'll use Wifi
  
  I.e. you won't be on wifi when you're plugged in. This is particularly helpful at work when you go in and out your work area.
  
  This is how I set up all laptops at work so people spend the least amount of time on Wifi.
  
  Also, go here, download their software, get a layout of your home/office, and walk around clicking on each step. This will map all your wifi signals in your house or office (including wireless printers) so you know where you can get the best connection (which affects all your wireless devices including your phone).
  
  Also, in case you're wondering why you're disconnected, here is how wifi works. When you're watching a video, you get a buffer so the quick disconnect (< 1s) won't be a problem since you have the buffer but if you need a constant connection (ex: your remote system) then it can disconnect you due to lack of signal. Video games, websites, apps, etc don't care if you lose the signal for a second or so (that's what a lag spike is) but some software (including online games) have a timer where if you're disconnected for a few seconds, it'll kick you off.
  
  Are you far away from the router? Here is a 50' Ethernet cord with cable clips for $12. You can run this alongside your floor panels if you like.
  
  Always use Ethernet if you can - it's the fastest and most stable signal you can get that's pretty cheap.

You'll probably see terminology like CAT5, CAT5e, CAT6, maybe even CAT7. Those don't matter to you. Colors don't matter either. Just get the right length, and the cheapest one you can find is good.

Edit: like for example, I would just get this one if I need 25ft: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Black/dp/B007NZGPAY/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=network+cable+25ft&qid=1571625240&sr=8-7

Any one that has a good amount of positive reviews should do.

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords – Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem – faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_31RLBbFYG97EB

Best option where possible is run a cable. You can get flat cables that are easier to run through gaps https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

What's your current WiFi adapter?

You can buy bulk ethernet and coax cable in 500'-1000' spools as well as the connectors and tools from nearly every hardware, as well as online retailers such as amazon, newegg, and monoprice.

Bulk Cat 6

Cat 6 Connectors

RJ45 Ethernet Crimping Tool

Instructions (Note: this shows both straight through and cross-over cables. You only need to use a crossover cable if you are plugging two computers NIC cards directly together. In all other instances where you are going to a switch/router, you want straight through).

Bulk RG6 Coax

RG6 Compression Connectors

RG6 Compression tool

Instructions

If you have carpet you can order a 50 to 100 foot FLAT Ethernet cable to run from one room to another, and you can pull up the edge of the carpet and lay it underneath. if it is a flat cable it will not show when you lay the carpet back down. You should be able to then set up another router, move the current router you have, or you can alternatively get a long phone line to run through your carpet.

Doesn't take much effort and a youtube video could handle it. Just make sure it is at least Cat6 (1 gigabit per second at least) as a cable. Cat5 is an older technology.

​

Setting up a router itself has some very simple youtube videos that explain how to do it. It's honestly not that hard to set up a router - the difficulty comes when you have to apply new DNS ports (Which is something most people dont have a clue about). Heck, maybe once you get the ethernet cable there it can connect directly, or you can get a dongle that lets you apply the ethernet cable as a phone cable instead.

Getting someone to come out and run wire through your wall is going to be destructive and cost a lot of time. The best option is DIY and to just buy a longer cable and run it from one room to another.

Source: Software Engineer / Jr. Hardware Technician

​

Here's some links that might be helpful

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7FxORx05Ns

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lagEXvgXYzc

You shouldn't be spending more than $30 total. ~$10-12 for the used N300 and ~$15 for 200 feet of cat5e cable. If you need 250 ft, it shouldn't cost more than $30.

The N300 will perform we'll if it's in the next room over or the same room as you, or even a few rooms over. I used it in my 2 story house in AP mode, and I got a good signal from it in the basement to my room on the second floor.

Yes, spending more on a router/AP will yield a better signal, generally speaking, but the N300 should perform well for your needs. If you really feel you should spend more, don't go over $50. It's unnecessary considering you will be close to the router/AP.

Good to know.

Amazon.ca pricing can be a bit weird. I think Cat6 is my best bet though.
[Cat 6] (https://www.amazon.ca/Ethernet-Higher-Bandwidth-Internet-Network/dp/B017R12IXG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cat5e+25ft&qid=1556283926&s=electronics&sr=1-6) is $9.95, a [Cat 7] (https://www.amazon.ca/Shielded-Ethernet-Cable-Highest-Cables/dp/B07B4D94FT/ref=pd_sbs_147_3/141-7518677-1184245?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07B4D94FT&pd_rd_r=44f92220-6824-11e9-af2b-df456cd2a423&pd_rd_w=JjdRL&pd_rd_wg=z4mFZ&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=662ZMCQDNKMK0YD47PFX&psc=1&refRID=662ZMCQDNKMK0YD47PFX) is $12.95, and a [Cat 5E] (https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-Cat5e-Ethernet-Patch-Cable/dp/B00ACR5ZVK/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=cat5e+25ft&qid=1556283926&s=electronics&sr=1-5) is $12.00 All are 25 FT.

Are you getting signal with what you currently have? What is it?

If yeah - ubiquity will probably do easy way out. If no (i'm guessing you're handy since you need wifi in a shed)

If no - buy accordingly. If it was me i'd do the below little more work though will work like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Ethernet-Network-Internet-Computer/dp/B00BNKV60O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1475122268&sr=8-3&keywords=200+ft+ethernet+cable

https://www.amazon.com/Netis-WF2471-Wireless-Repeater-Advanced/dp/B00GNUEEDU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1475122349&sr=8-2&keywords=wireless+access+point+cheap

https://www.amazon.com/RiteAV-Port-Female-Female-Plate-White/dp/B00ESQ457G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475122401&sr=8-1&keywords=ethernet+outlet

You're looking for keystone jacks instead of punchdown termination.

Every keystone jack panel I could find on amazon & ebay was grossly overpriced, so I bought a blank keystone panel (probably cheaper brands, but I like Tripp Lite) and a pack of keystone jacks.

$45~ all in, didn't have to buy crimpers and tips, and saved time and hassle.

The punchdown panels are more for if you have a 1000ft spool of Cat5 and you're terminating your own cables.

Since you've said a PowerLine is not in your budget, I made this list of what I think are the best, most affordable ethernet cables that suit your needs. They're all on Amazon, available in white, 45-50 ft long, top rated, and will ship in 2 days with Prime.

I'm on mobile, so I apologize if these links do not work.

[Here] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057XC5C6?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405304386&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a 45 ft ethernet cable, low profile (1.2 mm thick) - $11.95

[Here] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TH7GVE?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1405303814&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a 50 ft Amazon brand ethernet cable - $6.99

[Here] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016897GS?cache=26715fd010e0db5ccf49b22b075a4704&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405303991&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1) is a generic 50 ft ethernet cable - $5.60 (43% off)

Edit - formatting.

A switch and some cheap color coded cables! Made network setup a breeze.

Folding tables/chairs make setup and breakdown easy. Set up an extra for snacks/drinks.

Put a small cheap waste basket at each table to keep tables clean and clear.

Velcro Strips keep cables tidy at the lan or the battlestation as well as keeping them from tangling in your bag.

Yep, Monoprice is pretty much the source for inexpensive, quality cables.

If you absolutely MUST use Amazon OP, Cable Matters has high-quality cables: https://smile.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Patch/dp/B007NZHQDY/

The way people use spaces changes, especially in a high growth rate thing like a startup. Moving around furniture will absolutely be a thing. I would design this expecting to have to move everything in a year.

A 4 gang box on the desk, with a f-f RJ45 Coupler keystone to a pre-made patch cable, running to a 24 port switch, with that 24 port switch home run back to the head end via armored fiber jumper. That saves you from having to custom make hundreds of cables. You should be able to get really close to the right size pre-made cables to reach from the switch to each SMB.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-41089-4WP-QuickPort-Surface-Housing/dp/B002FYB0L2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=4+port+surface+mount+box&qid=1568403900&s=gateway&sr=8-2

https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-25-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-Black/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rj45+keystone&qid=1568403954&s=gateway&sr=8-6

AC isn't the keyword you want. If you want better speeds you need to look for one with gigabit ethernet ports like this one. You also need to plug the router into the wall with a gigabit cable.

The (expensive) hardware solution with Serato: Get a Rane SL 2,3 or 4 interface. That will allow you use the CDJ2000s like some bigger sized DDJ platters/controllers with Serato.

The (free, but maybe time intensive) software solution with Rekordbox: Download Rekordbox, reorganize your library in Rekordbox (this might help) and either

• get a switch and some network cables to connect your laptop to the players
  
  
• get some USB/SD drives and export your audio files to them via the rekordbox aplication.
  

You might as well get a decent gigabit ethernet switch. Netgear makes a really nice managed POE switch for $150.

http://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-ProSAFE-GS110TP-Gigabit-GS110TP-200NAS/dp/B00LW9A328

Pretty much any cat6 cable will do. If you have an rj45 crimping tool you can cut the cables to the exact length that you require and terminate the ends. Otherwise just buy preterminated cables.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Snagless-Ethernet-Patch/dp/B007NZHQDY

If at all possible, a really long ethernet cable is the ideal solution:

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/

However, if ethernet absolutely is not an option for you, then proper 3x3 AC Wi-Fi on both the router and receiver ends can do wonders:

Router: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-AC1750-Smart-WiFi-Router/dp/B079JD7F7G/

Receiver: https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Archer-T9UH-Wireless-network/dp/B01GE9QS0G/

The key is to get a receiver that has an extension cable. You want to have flexibility in where you can position it. You don't want it sticking directly into your computer and being blocked by a bunch of stuff with a lot of interference.

I bought these two and it worked great

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JVT02/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZPGV1H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What is your initial internet speed?

Cat5 is a lot more solid of a connection for sure. Do you have carpet? Run this under the carpet https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Premium-UltraFlat-Patch/dp/B0057XC5C6. Will require expertise in areas like the stairs. Also, depending on the design of your house, you can drill holes. You could also use poweline adapters if its all on the same electrical circuit.

Are you sure that the "cable" connexions are live?

I do not believe there is a modern set up that uses coaxial where ethernet is the medium standard for LAN, unless what you need is a modem/router combo, which may or may not work depending on the service.

You should better be looking at running a (probably flat) ethernet cord instead. Maximum should be 50' or 100 meters, from the router upstairs.

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords - Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem - faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_O.YwDbWS35YHY

It's conveniently flat and is very low profile to run in corners or between door frames, if you get that, I'd recommend taping it or use adhesive on every other 2 meters.

Ethernet Cable

Order that and call it a day. :)

CAT6 is good for 100 meters or 328 feet.

You can get directional antennae if its a clear way, but the cheapest, easiest and most reliable source is

​

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-4445608-Ethernet-Network-Patch/dp/B00BNL001Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=36LE32DKBHZVT&keywords=300+ft+ethernet+cable&qid=1555424765&s=gateway&sprefix=300+ft+either%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-3

If you dont want a full blown floor standing rack, there are other options that would neaten this up.

You could wall mount a couple patch panels right next to that hole, like this: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NUXCHE6/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_N9ADxb573TN78

Or maybe a small wall mounted rack, just for your network (switch and patch panel), kinda like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B008CR07OM/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_..ADxb7KF81P1

There is absolutely an easy fix. Two of these, mounted parallel to each other (like this = ) above the switch. Then 1-ft patch cables to the switch.

I'd also recommend turning the switch around so the patch cables are facing the doorway and not jammed into the little nook between the switch and the phone equipment. It has a right angle power cord so you could even move it in more towards the phone system.

i was thinking of getting this router with this moca adapter and use this ethernet cord. I believe the coax outlets are all connected because i took the router from upstairs and plugged it into my coax and it worked perfect. As far as speeds i mostly want to be able to set up a wired connection to my computer for gaming and be able to connect my ps4 with a wired connection and all my other devices wireless.

You are correct, as you dont want to crack the copper in a solid cat5/6. Take a look at THIS. Specifically the sizes and contacts section.

I recommend something like THIS.

For small home setups, I've had plenty of luck with patch panels like this one.

1. use Cat6 or Cat6a, it's not that much more expensive
   
2. HGHJFKLDSGLKDSJFDSLKJFSDLK $1200! wow
   
   ​
   
   You could seriously just buy something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Waterproof-Underground-VIVO-CABLE-V014/dp/B01E7GEZEE/
   
   https://www.amazon.com/ITBEBE-Plated-Through-premium-Connectors/dp/B073ZM2VBK/
   
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Network-Cable-Crimper-Pliers-Tools/dp/B00426HLQO/
   
   
   
   
   run it outside and then crimp the edges.
   
   
   I didn't pick the best tools or items, these were half-arsed searched. It's WAY WAY WAY less than $1200.
   
   
   Another alternative - drill through the floor/ceiling and run at a corner or in a closet.

For Cat 6 outdoor I've used this brand: VIVO Black 500 ft Cat6 Ethernet Cable 23 AWG/Wire 500ft Cat-6 Waterproof Outdoor/Direct Burial/Underground (CABLE-V012) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GYGQ31E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dSzZCb1DS5JQR

Really good quality cable. True Cable on amazon also seems to be a good quality, but I've not used it personally.

Patch panel I have: [UL Listed] Cable Matters Rackmount or Wallmount 24 Port Cat6 Patch Panel (Cat 6 RJ45 Patch Panel) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1OWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IUzZCbMJ3VPYZ

I've used this one a number of times and have been extremely happy with it. BUT, it's only Cat5e and only 12 ports.

Maybe try something like this it's still only 12 port but if you want wall mount you could put two side by side?

Platinum tools makes something like that: Platinum Tools 100036 EZ-RJ45 Cat6 Strain Relief, (Clear). 50/Bag.(Pack of 50) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00939KKX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gDjGAbZH3BZ0A

And: Platinum Tools 100010C EZ-RJ45 Cat 6+ Connectors, Clamshell, 50-Pieces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FI9VU2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mEjGAbCVFZD7F

But they have their own crimper that cuts off the excess wire. I've never used them but I know people who do and they like them.

This was a godsend.

My PS4 is downstairs, but the ethernet box is in a laundry room upstairs. The flat cable allows me to connect under doors even when they're closed.

And they're pretty cheap, even at that length.

Can you put an Ethernet switch near your gear so you only have to run one Ethernet cable along the wall? Also, you can get some pretty flat
Ethernet cable, might be easier to hide.


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018BCJKE0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_W9TZCb1032GT6

This is fantastic. I appreciate the offer. I'll let you know if I have problems.

Is the SF/FTP the best shielding then?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair

I already purchased this one, but I can get a different one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017BG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is my new ethernet networking hub in the new house. I had two Cat6 and one RG-6 pulled to every drop and have 14 drops throughout the house. All of the ethernet drops (red and yellow in the top right of the picture) run to this cabinet and the RG-6 go to a panel to the lower right of this with the cable modem and firewall (pfSense). The house is a two story with a walk out basement and this cabinet is in a storage room next the to the stairs in the finished basement.

Equipment:

• Tripp Lite 9U Wall Mount Rack Enclosure, 16.5" Deep, SRW9U
  
• TRENDnet 48-Port Cat6 Unshielded Patch Panel, TC-P48C6
  
• Cisco SG300-52 Managed Switch
  
• D-Link 10-Port Gigabit PoE Switch DGS-1210-10P
  
• Apple Time Capsule (re-capped power supply, reversed and vented fan, WD Red drive)
  
• Sangoma PBX running FreePBX
  
• CyberPower PR1500LCDRT2U Sinewave UPS 1500VA 1350W
  
  Accessories:
  
  
• CyberPower RMCARD205 Remote Management Card
  
• CyberPower ENVIROSENSOR Enviromental Sensor
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Yellow (108109)
  
• Monoprice 1000-Feet 23 AWG Cat6 500Mhz UTP CMR Solid Bulk Bare Copper Ethernet Cable - Red (108107)
  
• 50M Multimode Duplex 10Gb Fiber Optic Cable (50/125) - LC to LC
  
• LC-LC 10Gb Multimode Duplex 50/125 Fiber Patch Cable, 1FT
  
• TRENDnet Gigabit SFP module, Multi-Mode, Mini-GBIC, Up to 550 m, TEG-MGBSX
  
• Tripp Lite SRCAGENUTS Rack Square Hole Hardware Kit Screws, Washers
  
• Cable Matters Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 1 Foot
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 1.5 Feet - Red
  
• GearIT Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable 3 Feet - Yellow
  
• NavePoint Cantilever Vented Shelf 1U Black 14" (350mm) deep
  
  Equipment not shown:
  
  
• Leviton 61110-BW6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, White
  
• Leviton 61110-BL6 Extreme Quick Port Connector, Blue
  
• Leviton 41085-MLR Quickport Duplex LC MM Fiber Optic Adapter
  
• Leviton 41091-3WN QuickPort Midsize Wallplate, Single Gang, 3-Port, White
  
• Leviton 41080-4WP QuickPort Wallplate, Single Gang, 4-Port, White
  
• Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black
  
• Brady PWM-PK-8 B-500 Matte Repositionable Vinyl Cloth Wire Markers
  
  The D-Link is currently for the PoE VoIP phones and PBX. The Cisco switch is for everything else in the house for now. There is a Drobo camping on the top of the cabinet which will be decommissioned eventually and content moved to a FreeNAS server. Current power draw from everything here including Drobo is 85W.
  
  Cross-posted in /r/HomeNetworking
  
  edit: forgot to mention that the fiber line runs to the den where the lab will be setup. Currently the other end is another Cisco SG500-28 (the model without the fans, so quiet). Future upgrade is a 10G connection.

if you need a new cable, order the flat cat6 ones by Jadaol:
https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B018BCJKE0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_lp_tr_t_2/138-0243435-0431555?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K91A2V4P89XQVHPSAC55

they are the best.

Tripp Lite SR4POST25 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack - Amazon

This works great, especially with the wheels.

They are called "keystone patch panel" and "keystone jack inline couplers".

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Mount-24-Port-Keystone/dp/B0072JVT02/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Keystone+Jack+Panel%2C+24+ports&qid=1573167491&s=electronics&sr=1-3



https://www.amazon.com/Listed-VCE-25-Pack-Keystone-Coupler-Black/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=pd_sbs_147_4/140-9004642-5057103?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B075ZPGV1H&pd_rd_r=232cd558-643d-485c-9024-c39bb931cd96&pd_rd_w=1YmK2&pd_rd_wg=dXn7q&pf_rd_p=52b7592c-2dc9-4ac6-84d4-4bda6360045e&pf_rd_r=583GG9F0ETTF1KEJZKWG&psc=1&refRID=583GG9F0ETTF1KEJZKWG

EDIT: Refreshed this old page and saw someone already posted a good patch panel.

Just buy something like this . It even comes with little holders to attach it to the wall to route it. Should blend in fairly well.

2.4 GHz works best over long ranges.

5.0 GHz, while faster, is only for short distances.

So depending on how far away you are from the router, this could explain the loss of internet on 5.0 GHz.

https://support.stuff-fibre.co.nz/hc/en-us/articles/226438147-What-is-the-difference-between-2-4-GHz-and-5-GHz-

Also, try using a wired Ethernet cord. This will give you the max speeds your ISP allows. They are cheap on Amazon, 50 ft for 10$.

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

Thanks...

Okay, the easiest and cheapest way of doing this is:

• Get a switch like this one https://www.amazon.com/NETGEAR-8-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Unmanaged/dp/B07PFYM5MZ/
  
  
• Get a network tool kit https://www.amazon.com/Network-Maintenance-Portable-Crimper-Connectors/dp/B0756SN86D/
  
  
• Get some Cat6 RJ45 connectors https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-100-PACK-Connector-Connectors-Transparent/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/
  
  
  What you need to do is:
  
  
• Disconnect all the blue cables from that panel
  
  
• Wire them up with the RJ45 connectors learn how to do that here https://youtu.be/rV5vgk2Mt3Iand here https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Check the wiring on the wall sockets, that it matches the pinout from https://www.warehousecables.com/landing/how-to-make-a-cat6-patch-cable.php
  
  
• Connect the blue cables and also the grey cable to the switch, and you should be good to go.
  
  
  Note, you may need to get new wall sockets, but I could suggest to do one test cable first and then run a speedtest using speedtest.ui.com to see if you get the same as your internet provider. One other thing to note, is that I'm not sure that Frontier Communications device is a router and can handle all the connections, you may need to get a router also.

Are you talking about rj45 connectors? You can get a bag of 100 for under $10 shipped. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K9Z4FT2/

The pass-through rj45 EZ are getting popular because people can't crimp properly anymore. Though I don't crimp anymore myself either. It's punched down into a keystone or patch panel and just get pre-made cables. Cables are too cheap to mess around making your own.

The below combination works to extend where your vive plugs in by 50 ft with no added latency (i use it). I'm not sure if the 100 ft would work as well.

Cat6 Snagless Ethernet Patch Cable in Black 50 Feet

IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over

Monoprice 50 ft Luxe Series CL3 Active High Speed Premium HDMI Cable

Edit: Total price is just over $100

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Ethernet-Network-Internet-Computer/dp/B00BNL001Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3JY2MB4SZOPNV&keywords=cat6+ethernet+cable+300+feet&qid=1569685009&s=gateway&sprefix=300+feet+ethernet+cable+cat6%2Caps%2C196&sr=8-3

So very easy to do.

When you download something from the internet it comes to you from external to your home. Across your ISPs network from wherever it originated from. That's what your download speed effects. When you upload something it goes in reverse across your ISPs network and uses your upload speed. This is called a WAN or wide area network. And that is what you pay for access to.

Your ISP's network is how data is delivered to and from your home. It doesn't have anything to do with how data moves around inside your home. When you stream your Xbox to a PC the data is originating on your Xbox, which is in your home, and being transferred to your PC which is also in your home. That's why your upload and download speeds don't matter for streaming your Xbox to your PC. That data never actually leaves your home and travels on your ISPs network. It travels around your home on what is called a LAN or local area network.

The quality of your LAN determines how well you can stream from your PC to your Xbox and the quality of your WAN determines how well you can stream to YouTube. Some of the gear, like your router or gateway is used by both networks, some isn't. So if, for example, you ran a CAT5e from your PC to your modem and another CAT5e cable to your Xbox from your modem you would be able to transfer data between those two sources at 1000 Mbps (assuming your router isn't total trash) even though you have a much slower speed from your ISP. It doesn't impact potential data caps either since you aren't using your ISP to transfer that data.

The only thing that would reduce your upload speed is if your network gear couldn't handle the amount of data being transferred around your LAN between your PC and Xbox and through the WAN between your PC and Youtube. That is a possibility (though fairly remote) most decent routers are capable of handing tons of data.

Wifi is a problem because the signal can fluctuate pretty wildly. Even sitting right beside my wireless router I can watch the quality of streaming my Xbox to my PC fluctuate pretty dramatically. My guess is you are like most homes with minimal wired connections if any. If you want, you can comment or message me your router model and I can see if it's trash or not.

Here is an example of the ethernet cable you would need for your LAN chances are to wire your PC and Xbox to your router. You'd need two pieces and likely less then fifty foot lengths. it would probably cost you less then $30 to be able to stream high/ultra quality to your PC from your Xbox with few or no quality drops. You will have some input lag though, that is unavoidable.

Then you'd use something like OBS to capture your PC display and broadcast to Youtube. It's not conventional, but it does technically work. You'd likely want to stream at 720p probably 30fps because it's better to stream at a lower quality overall then it is to try and stream right at the edge of what your connection can handle. When you stream at the max you can theoretically handle you get drops in speed across your ISP's network and it can cause your stream to suddenly drop quality. It might blur up badly for a period of time, and some services (like twitch) will automatically cut your stream off if quality is a serious issue. Not sure if Youtube does that or not. The short and sweet of it is it is better to stream at a quality you can handle 100% of the time then one you can handle 80% of the time. Viewers notice that 20% of the time you can't handle it way more then the lower overall quality.

Is the problem that you only have one Ethernet port? As u/dageekywon mentioned a hub would probably be your best option. A wireless access point is another option and that would make things a little neater. For the distances you're working with any cable long enough will do. This looks like a decent option. If i'm not mistaken it's only when you're running line for over 100 feet that signal degradation starts to be a factor.

using cat5 for phone is just wasteful. a 1 pair or 2 pair lv wire would cost significantly less in construction. That phone install looks like it was done by a lazy wiring contractor who did not even want to terminate anything properly. Contact the landlord before doing it, and it might serve you better in the long run to run all those cables in the closet to a patch panel instead of just adding ends to them, that way you don't have to move them as much, and don't risk ripping the ends off.

Haven't used these before but.. https://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tools-100036-EZ-RJ45-Strain/dp/B00939KKX6
Look OK?

That looks like one of those old legacy punchdown style patch panels? What is the point of using those things compare to a regular RJ45 on both ends?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E2YCNA + https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZPGV1H/

That's a no name brand. Get Monoprice, Mediabridge, Cable Matters, etc.
Here's a good example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007NZHQDY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_41xXDb77XMAQ2

Cat7 is not a real standard. Cat6 will work fine for gigabit.

If you can hide the cable the whole run under carpet. Getting past the archway will be easy with a fish tape https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-56001-Strength-50-Foot/dp/B0026TA6RK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480647857&sr=8-3&keywords=fish+tape With ribbon cable https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-jadaol-Internet-computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480648036&sr=8-3&keywords=flat+network+cable+100ft you wont even feel it under the carpet when standing on it.

Papa John explains everything here:
https://youtu.be/LbO1KsQ0vP4

Follow T568B on both ends.

Use a small 12-port patch panel in the basement. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Intellinet-12-Port-Wall-mount-Patch-560269/dp/B000BSJJ1M

I'm thick headed, so direct burial should NOT be used if I plan to run it from two poles zip tied to a phone line? Like this:
Vivo 500 ft Cat6 Outdoor Ethernet Cable Waterproof, Direct Burial, Underground - (CABLE-V012) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GYGQ31E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kEoqybYSGQSZT

These super flat Ethernet cable can work wonders if you’d like

Maybe you can get a long one like this?

To be fair, highest settings don't filter out wifi connections. There is a vaild frustration here but it's also understandable that one can't set up pluging in an ethernet cable. Most of the community isn't asking for the most luxurious internet set ups, they are asking for players to use an ethernet cable for stable connections. I link to a 300ft cable here just to show off that it's possible to still be wired even if the modem is far. And if this isn't possible, a powerline adapter can be an alternative but that soultion may vary in effectiveness.

As a side note, I've pretty much given up on wifi for anything other than mobile devices and just run physical cables to various places in the apartment -- There's a hub located at the entertainment center and in my home office so it's only 2 cables going around.

Solves almost all my ridiculous network problems -- windows browsing, strange buffering issues with Netflix and other streaming, random disconnects, etc. I used the flat cables, some extremely long versions of this cable I picked up during a Monoprice sale.

Yeah ends are generally ends - cheap or expensive you can still f- it up. If you pay attention to your crimps, you should be fine even with the cheapo ends. Stranded vs solid matters more.

But if its all in-wall wiring, what OP wants is a PATCH PANEL and Keystone JACKS, no RJ-45 ends/crimps at all!

One set of options:

https://www.amazon.com/Dshot-network-Mount-Surface-Patch/dp/B00NUXCHE6

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6

I hear you, but wireless/mesh networks are tricky and often moving targets. Environments can change overnight without warning. By plugging a Boost into a wireless node, you're essentially building a mesh network on the back of another mesh network. That's a complex and brittle setup.

I'm not suggesting you run a permanent 200ft hardwire thru your house. But you can get cat6 of that length for $18. Small price to pay for confirmation that it's your eero node that's failing you. At least then you'll know whether you need to reassess your setup.

Cheers.

Yeah that's no excuse...you can get really long ethernet cables for quite cheap on amazon and run it along your baseboards or under carpet.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_3?crid=15DROMDR50XRM&keywords=flat+ethernet+cable+100+ft&qid=1566327625&s=gateway&sprefix=flat+ethe%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-3

you have 2 pcie x1 slots under your pcie x16 that your gpu is plugged in, it should fit fine. they are the short black little brackets. if you want to do bluetooth though you might have to give up one of your usb slots though

edit: but you can get a shitload of ethernet cable for cheaper and have a faster connection

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords - Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem - faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Mq4jDbRN6Q4Z6

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/insignia-14-cat-6-network-cable-gray/6234011.p?skuId=6234011

Cat 6 50ft $10 Amazon
Cat 6 14ft $20 BestBuy

Just so you can see how much of a rip off it is

being in an apartment, yeah, probably a lot more copper and noise between circuits.
personally, i run a 100' ethernet cable....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017BG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White - Flat Internet Network Lan patch cords – Solid Cat6 High Speed Computer wire With clips& Snagless Rj45 Connectors for Router, modem – faster than Cat5e/Cat5 - 50 feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AQB6Cb85KBHFM - $10!!

Oh, forgot to throw in costs of a long Ethernet cord as well.

$9.39
http://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Premium-UltraFlat-Patch/dp/B0057XC5C6/ref=sr_1_20?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1372441295&sr=1-20&keywords=50+ft+cat+6

Yes and no. Yes, brand and thickness matter. Generic cables are often poorly made causing them to fail quickly especially if they're moved at all. Smaller conductors and less shielding mean more interference and loss across distance.

Having said that, for 25ft there's effectively no difference between Cat5e and Cat6a / 7 / whatever. The cable you linked will work fine. This one will also work fine. I have personally used the thin Monoprice cables at shorter lengths and had no issues. The only thing I'd say is they are not as nearly robust, so if it's going somewhere it might be kicked, stepped on, tripped over etc make sure you protect it.

You want pure copper wire.

Looks like Monoprice doesn't really have outdoor shit. I usually get my indoor stuff from them, but the last time I had to get outdoor rated cable, I got it from Amazon. This is what I got.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E7GEZEE

I ran it under ground in conduit, but I figured I'd be extra sure and get some burial rated stuff. I can't say how well it will hold up to the elements, but it is double sheathed with the outer most sheath being hard, black plastic that I assume is more resistant to UV.

You want it flat? Never seen flat in those lengths... But quick google - there you go

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=pd_cp_147_1/136-0885201-1365509?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00WD017BG&pd_rd_r=d05f7eb2-5a8f-41b7-934d-742436a0a022&pd_rd_w=sbOSp&pd_rd_wg=hRKLO&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=74S7ZD8T3SED22ZEGM7E&psc=1&refRID=74S7ZD8T3SED22ZEGM7E

I bought this rack - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004OB8T72

It has adjustable depth and works fine for mounting servers.

All the links contain affiliate links (tag=lx7-20&linkId=fe646f143f52bb0de1504aa396676d4e). Unaffiliated links are below. The user has posted affiliate links before, so I believe this is not an "Oops" mistake. The users also posted this in Beermoney as well, but it was removed because of the affiliate links included.
_____
Access Point - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015PRO512/

Router - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YFJT29C

Powerline Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EE9APYS

Modem -https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016PE1X5K

Ethernet Cables - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E5I7VJG

I have this rack and can confirm it is very heavy duty.
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Equipment-Capacity-SR4POST25/dp/B004OB8T72

I also picked up the casters for this, a PDU, and a shelf or two.

Rails mount to the side of the server and fit into those slots. Most of your installation time will be spent on getting the rails setup but mostly due to a bit of a learning curve. All of my servers came with rails but you will need one rated for a 4U and weight load.

If you're on 120v, you should consider running your servers off 240.

That rack looked a little sketchy to me when I was shopping for a rack. I bought this one. at the time it was $50 cheaper on amazon.

UbiGear New 200ft 60m Blue 200' Ft Rj45 Cat6 Ethernet LAN Network Internet Computer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BNKV60O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_g8mXDbY7YQ73R


Avid Power 20V MAX Lithium Ion Cordless Drill, Power Drill Set with 3/8 inches Keyless Chuck, Variable Speed, 16 Position and 22pcs Drill/Driver Bits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CR1GPBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_e9mXDbECH2X1Q

Voila... Enjoy

Ps... Im being a jerk for fun... I know the struggle

Yeah, don't buy their router, or WiFi extenders. $150 for a router and $150 for a WiFi extender...thats $300. For that money you could buy two enterprise grade access points (https://store.ui.com/collections/wireless/products/unifi-ac-pro) @ $149/each and then go a wee bit over budget for a run of ethernet cable for each of them(https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG) @ $16.99 each. Then run the Unifi controller on a spare computer you have lying around and you have a WiFi setup that will blow that Quantum Gateway piece of shit out of the water.

If that's too much trouble, then Unifi have an all-in-one box for $299.99 (https://store.ui.com/products/unifi-dream-machine-beta). You have to be an early access member to see that link, but it's free to sign up and enable "Early Access". In general, Unifi gear always gets my vote because it's much, much better value than anything else I can find.


But seriously, if I'm paying the money verizon are charging for a router, I expect almost fucking Cisco gear. Not some made in shenzhen cheap piece of shit.

Well that would solve your problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543508852&sr=8-4&keywords=50+foot+cat6+ethernet+cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017GQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used this 50 ft ethernet to connect my switch in my other room and I get full speeds. I have 240 down / 12 up if that matters.

Where did you get your patch panel?

Edit: found it!

http://www.amazon.com/Intellinet-12-Port-Wall-mount-Patch-560269/dp/B000BSJJ1M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416066998&sr=8-1

I use this. They sell smaller versions too. Tripp Lite SR4POST25 25U 4-Post Open Frame Rack Cabinet Square Holes 1000lb Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OB8T72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_dC2FwbVXH3B3N

Here is the mobile version of your link

Ethernet

If you're paying $ per foor, then you're vastly overpaying.

You don't need to go any higher than Cat 5E for gigabit ethernet. Likely Cat 5 would do. That said, there shouldn't be that much price difference.

Here is 25 feet for $7.99, working out at 32c per foot. You could likely get cheaper.

It's here

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNFLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NZHQDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/200ft-Ethernet-Network-Internet-Computer/dp/B00BNKV60O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407356258&sr=8-1&keywords=60m+ethernet+cable

Amazon Link

200 feet for $16

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Ethernet-Network-Internet-Computer/dp/B00BNKV60O/ref=asc_df_B00BNKV60O/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309707619534&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9964934233283735387&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027276&hvtargid=pla-571235458711&psc=1

Gotchu

(https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-Ethernet-Network-Internet-Computer/dp/B00BNKV60O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486154964&sr=8-1&keywords=Cat+6+Ethernet+cable+200ft) There yah go, here is 300ft (https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-4445608-Ethernet-Network-Patch/dp/B00BNL001Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486155006&sr=8-2&keywords=100+meter+cat6) which I would say is the longest you should go. 100m is the utmost max, you'd have to buy a box of un-crimped cat6 at that point.

May I present to you.... a very long Ethernet cable

Get one of these instead.

You can get a 300' ethernet cable for $30 on Amazon. Even at 300', it will still give you full gigabit with the only added latency of 300' at 2/3 the speed of light : 0.0002 milliseconds (202 nanoseconds).

I found This

You can buy a box of 200ft CAT6 for https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Ethernet-Waterproof-Direct-Underground/dp/B00GYGQ31E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498455410&sr=8-1&keywords=vivo+ethernet

I just buy the Amazon Basics ones. The clips are sturdy, the cables are fairly priced and I haven't had any issues.

Surface mount panel:

https://smile.amazon.com/Dshot-network-Mount-Surface-Patch/dp/B00NUXCHE6/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=surface+mount+patch+panel&qid=1572621981&sa-no-redirect=1&sr=8-5&x=0&y=0

I'm building a house and I gave the contractor one of these to terminate the cat6. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NUXCHE6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has enough spots for everything and I can just use patch cables to connect to a switch when I move in.

Bruh
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_njw2AbPSW6FXJ


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RCI5A0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_nkw2AbJS0G492

Then get a really long ethernet cord and run it alongside the baseboards. If you get one of those slim flat ethernet cables, then you'll barely know it's there. You can secure it with sticky mounts and zip ties, use plastic staples, or use a staple gun.

http://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-computer-Snagless-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463467139&sr=8-2&keywords=slim+flat+ethernet

ABSOLUTELY.

For example, here's a $17US available here in the States:
https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/CSL-Ethernet-Gigabit-1000Mbit-compatible/dp/B00U7DEGA0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466098172&sr=8-5&keywords=25m+ethernet+cable

https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-computer-Snagless-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466098199&sr=8-5&keywords=25m+ethernet

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 25 ft White:https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Flat/dp/B018BCJKE0/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541157832&sr=1-9&keywords=ethernet+cable [amazon.com]$4.50 w / promo code: R6MC97FH​​

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft White:https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541157832&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet+cable [amazon.com]$5.70 w / promo code: TNCGPIWU

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 100 ft White:https://www.amazon.com/Ethernet-Internet-Network-Computer-Connectors/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541157832&sr=1-11&keywords=ethernet+cable [amazon.com]$10.50 w / promo code: QVQVA2LO

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 10 ft Black-5pack:https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-Connectors-10Ft-10pack-White/dp/B01N5QNPMH/ref=sr_1_23?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541158560&sr=1-23&keywords=ethernet%2Bcable%2B10%2Bft&th=1 [amazon.com]$10.50 w / promo code: 2UO8XUI7

Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 10 ft White-5pack:https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-Connectors-10Ft-10pack-White/dp/B01MR7B3EF/ref=sr_1_23?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541158560&sr=1-23&keywords=ethernet%2Bcable%2B10%2Bft&th=1 [amazon.com]$10.50 w / promo code: 8QD63NCW

​

Taken from Slickdeals

This very similar cable gets 5 stars from alot of people lol...
Must be just fine...

https://www.amazon.com/Flat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Clips/dp/B00WD017BG/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491856701&sr=1-3&keywords=100ft+white+ethernet+cable

Brand new CAT6: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017BG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I second the flat white cables

can even buy them with the clips and tiny nails

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017BG/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

To run ethernet cables throughout my home without wiring through the walls, I used Command Decorating Clips to attach different length Jadaol Cat6 white, flat ethernet cables (e.g., this 100 feet model) to the walls and ceilings. I separated each clip by about 2 feet. Small, simple (unmanaged) gigabit ethernet switches (I have a few of this model, which is about the size of a human hand) provide access points throughout the network while connecting each cable. Guests only notice the entire setup when I specifically mention it to them.

I've seen flat ethernet cables that keep each pair twisted inside (this shows it in the 4th photo)

You can get standards-compliant flat cables, such as this example: https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

That page also has a link to a CAT7 compliant version.

Presumably, you could tape this to a floor or run it under a rug.

Flat ones? I've used those to run under doors before.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ethernet-Network-internet-Connectors-Meters-50FT-White/dp/B00WD017GQ

there is flat Ethernet wire you could use.

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ

https://www.amazon.com/Jadaol-Cat6-ethernet-cable-Clips/dp/B00WD017GQ?th=1&psc=1
Would I have any issues if I bought this cable then?

Easy

50 feet of flat ethernet cable

https://www.amazon.com/Cat-Ethernet-Cable-White-Connectors/dp/B00WD017GQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502462466&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=flat+ethernet+cable&psc=1

VIVO Black 500ft Bulk Cat6, Full Copper Ethernet Cable, 23 AWG | Cat-6 Wire, Waterproof, Outdoor, Direct Burial (CABLE-V014) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01E7GEZEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_y.xKDb6TKC7M4

>And we can't really afford it know how to set up ethernet

You literally run one of these (this is max length, you probably don't need something this long)

https://www.amazon.com/UbiGear-4445608-Ethernet-Network-Patch/dp/B00BNL001Y

from your console to your router. That's it. You can use these

https://www.amazon.com/Powerline-Computer-Network-Adapters/b?ie=UTF8&node=1194444

if you don't want to run a cable through your place.

This is what I use in my Enclosure which do the trick.




Cable Matters Rack or Wall Mount 24-Port Cat6 /Cat 6 Keystone Patch Panel (Blank Patch Panel) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JVT02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_oYEOCbG39EJ6




With these




[UL Listed] VCE 25-Pack CAT6 RJ45 Keystone Jack Inline Coupler-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZPGV1H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_b2EOCbYDXVKVG

how about a 300ft cable, though untangling and rolling this back up is a bitch... not like I speak from experience... >_>

Seriously. $16 or less could have prevented this eyesore. Now he's going to have to buy spackle and paint the walls again.

I'm not sure if it is. Definitely makes it a lot cleaner. These are what I use in the rack and all the keystone wall plates in my house. I hate doing punch downs.

[UL Listed] VCE 25-Pack CAT6 RJ45... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZPGV1H?ref=

Those are usually APC, Dell, HP, Cisco, etc - commercial grade stuff. StarTech and a few others make consumer and commercial grade products, so generally open racks, 25U, adjustable, rather than only bulletproof sturdy cage/door racks.

Here's the StarTech 25U one I have (I picked it up used off Kijiji though, $80)

Here's a similar one from Tripp-Lite, also 25U open. Don't usually see these in datacenters, because those are all 42U/45U, enclosed.

That being said, the StarTech rack is excellent, as it's adjustable depth, has casters, and a lower profile than something with front/back door + side panels. Depends on budget + needs. I'm in a condo, so having a 42U+ closed rack would be way overkill (and a pain to even get into the elevator...)

I've only got one cat6 cable, other people who purchased dont seem to have a problem getting gigabit internet with the same cable I have... but I suppose I will have to try a new one if I cant figure anything else out.

the cable im using--

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WD017GQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Each connection, I presume it's wired up as Ethernet drops, should go to a central location where they terminate into a patch panel of some sort. You can use patch cables (short Ethernet cables) to connect the proper location on the patch panel to a switch. The switch is then connected to one LAN port on your router. Some folks would only need the router, if they have enough LAN ports on that, but f you have all your rooms wired up I presume that's more than 4.

A patch panel looks something like this, though there are some that look a little different. You should find it near your breaker box, possibly behind a metal panel that can be pulled off with a few screws.

>blizz pls fix

Right, because it's their job to fix your shitty wifi.

Here's your real solution.