Reddit mentions: The best cat litter accessories

Oh! Excellent!!! You'll be so happy with your kitty. Here are some of my cats' favorite things:

(1) A view out an open window, facing a tree or some kind of natural shrubbery where he can chirp at squirrels or birds (if you have access to such a thing). Even if there's no "wildlife" in the area, cats like to look outside at passersby too.

(2) High places, like cat trees, or window ledge lookouts: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-21651-43327-cat.jpg

(3) Multiple sources of water, and preferably a running fountain. Amazon has one for $20 I think. Cats don't have much of a natural thirst drive but (males especially) are prone to urinary crystals. One of the best preventatives is drinking plenty of water, which cats are more likely to do if you give them a running source of it. You'll also find that some cats like to drink out of your own water cups lying around. It may not seem important that they get that much water, but my cat has been hospitalized twice for urinary crystals and that's way more expensive than a fountain.

(4) Scratchy posts and such. Keep them off your furniture!

(5) A litter box, preferably a covered one, in a private area. A rug underneath it will help with your own sanity because they'll kick the litter everywhere. I've turned the closet under the stairs (the Harry Potter closet) into a cat bathroom for my babies with a motion sensor light to give them privacy. I currently use this litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370152220&sr=1-1&keywords=cat+litter I used to use World's Best but it was like they were crapping in crushed diamonds, it was the most expensive thing I was getting for them.

(6) A furry bed or basket with blankets. Cats love that velvety furry texture. Mine seem to love baskets, but really anything with high walls that encloses them. If you are low on $$ then even a cardboard box with some squishies to line it are excellent.

(7) Toys that act like actual prey. My cats love Da Bird and they love this crittery thing even more: http://www.amazon.com/Da-Bird-Catcher-maker-Feather/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370151820&sr=1-3&keywords=da+bird, and I find it's more resilient than Da Bird (they yank on it). Toy mice and crinkle balls are also a favorite. Laser pointers, catnip-stuffed anything are also favorites. I've never known cats to really like balls or larger toys much. If it looks or acts like something they'd hunt, they basically go crazy for it. Again, if you're poor, you can easily make crinkle toys out of plastic bags (just watch the kitty during playtime and put the toys away when you're not engaging), or catnip-stuffed socks.

(8) Microchip! Collar! Kitties are good at sneaking through open doors. My cat is also insured and I've saved hundreds on his vet bills, it can be a good decision.

I can't say I'm the best with food recommendations. Sometimes it just really depends on your budget and how your cat likes and responds to food you're feeding him. If he has a glossy coat, minimal shedding, and a healthy weight, it's a good food choice. Hopefully someone else can chime in with what they're feeding their kitties!

Many people think that because corgis are bossy and stubborn they need to be forceful with training - which isn't the case. Corgis are actually (generally) pretty sensitive dogs despite their bossiness, so using these old fashioned dominance methods are just hurting your relationship with your dog.

He is 4 months old - he has been ALIVE 4 months! You need to be patient and consistent with him. You are not going to be able to expect him to have a perfect recall, bite inhibition, play and bathroom habits at this age - it is like expecting a 3 year old to act like a 18 year old - they do not have the mental capacity, the focus or the skill to be more than what they are - a baby.

Get into a puppy kindergarten class at a local club that specializes in positive reinforcement. Kindergarten will help your puppy with socialization (which will help with basic manners, bite inhibition and will be CRITICAL to their success as an adult dog). YOU are going to do most of the learning in kindergarten and learn how to teach basic commands effectively, possibly get an introduction to clicker training and have the opportunity to ask questions and get answers with seasoned trainers.

>He settled down a little then got up and proceeded to pee on my arm, then tried to pee on my legs as well.

This is hardly surprising. He is a baby, he has ZERO bladder control. Puppies of that age have about 30 to 90 minutes worth of 'hold it' time (depending on the individual, how much water they have been drinking, etc) while they are awake and active. He should not have the option to go lay down with you - no one would be able to watch him. He should really be in the same room with one person's eye balls on him at all times. If you want to let him wander, your fiance needs to be following him. It is not to be mean or controlling, but you just cant trust a puppy that young not to pee because they need to - they don't really have the concept of 'outside' or 'holding it' yet.

>He DOES know how to ask to go out btw, sometimes he just doesn't and ignores you if you ask him if he wants to go out (which he knows what that means).

At 4 months old? No, he probably doesn't really know. He may sort of understand that when he does certain things he can go outside, but he is not reliable enough to communicate that/figure out how to ask under ALL situations. Our corgi was fantastic with house training at 5 months - unless he was in a room he was not used to or could not get to the back door to 'ask' because a door or other obstacle was in his way. It was not a reflection of him being 'bad' - he just had been in those situations so rarely that he did not know HOW to ask in those situations (which could be very similar to your dilemma). Your corgi should be on a consistent schedule - dont ASK him if he wants to go out, TAKE him out! Every 45-90 minutes when active (depends on his track record and what he is doing) and 15-30minutes after eating or drinking. If you notice him start to loose interest in an activity, that is your cue to get him outside (again, don't ask, just take him out). At around 5 - 6 months your pup is going to have more reliable bladder control and you can start to explore more freedoms as he proves he can handle it (teaching him to use bells or offer a cue to go out instead of taking him out systematically, slowly allowing him to have the room you are in +1 to explore while still being supervises, etc). Some people CAN get away with more freedoms earlier, but if your pup is still having accidents that is proof you are not there yet (and need to adjust accordingly)


Look into these resources for help with potty training and behavior - there simply is too much to cover in one reply:

• Kikiopup - What NOT to do to your dog when training your dog
  
  
• Dog training wiki - Jumping Up
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)
  
  Corgis are herders - they are very VERY mouthy until they get past teething (and can still be nippy if you are not consistent). Their bladders are tiny and untrustworthy at this age - keep them off uncleanable surfaces and make sure your eyeballs are on the puppy at all times until their bladder is more trustworthy. THOROUGHLY treat and wash the bedding with plenty of Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer (wash on sanitize setting after letting the bedding sit with the cleaner for several hours).
  
  /r/corgi frustrates me - so many people still advocate for dominance training there which has been seriously discounted in the dog training community. Yes, corgis are stubborn and are difficult to train - but you do not need to be mean or forceful or 'alpha'. Your dog is not trying to dominate you - they are a baby. They are not trying to be 'alpha' any more than an infant is trying to control the house.
  
  Be sure you are TEACHING your dog what you WANT them to do instead and you are treating the cause, not just the symptoms of behaviors. With potty training it is ALL about management and consistency - every accident is a set back and is YOUR fault for not watching him/controlling his environment better.
  
  If you cannot get to a puppy kindergarten class (which are usually around $50 for a 4-6 week class), do a TON of research on our wiki, kikopup videos, the digital dog training textbook and the books I listed above. Consider clicker training (but that will not really help they physical bladder control issue at this age) and Nothing in Life is Free to compliment your positive reinforcement training plan. Your puppy is also going to still need a ton of socialization with dogs, people and other animals.
  
  Positive reinforcement isn't about always sugar coating everything - you can still have strict rules and a well trained dog by using positive methods. The key to remember is treating the cause, not just the symptom and always looking to TEACH your dog, not control or intimidate. Corgis are fantastic dogs - they want to be with you all the time and they can be extremely obedient if you gain their trust and work with them correctly. Being heavy handed or using 'dominance' methods (like holding a dog on their back - that is terrifying to many dogs!) can seriously damage your relationship if you are not careful.
  
  Consistency and patience are the keys to success - look to capture the desired behaviors your corgi offers naturally, encourage new positive behaviors and redirect behaviors you do not want. If there is something your puppy does not KNOW (which is pretty much everything at this age) or cannot physically HELP (such as holding their bladder) you CANNOT punish them - it is not helpful, adds a lot of frustration and confusion to the relationship and does not teach them what they SHOULD be doing (because they don't know what that is or cannot physically do it.)

Congrats on the MC!

I have two MCs....

1. Invest in a water fountain! Cats naturally don't drink enough water (which is why they tell u wet food is better to feed ur cat than dry food)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Fountain-Drinking/dp/B000L3XYZ4/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1542680300&sr=1-5&keywords=platinum+water+fountain
   
   ​
   
   Also, cats don't like their food and water in the same spot . I found my cats tend to drink way more water and it stays cleaner when they are in different areas. Previously i was cleaning their water daily because my silly cats were dropping their kibbles into the water, or their food was getting sugar ants.
   
   ​
   
   
2. Your new baby will need a scratching post he/she can grow into. My boys use this one religiously (we have 3 posts scattered around the house) but this is their favorite because they can stretch all the way to the top. WARNING: its massive. its very sturdy and pretty wide so if u have a smaller place this may NOT be the post for you.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Homes-Pets-Scratching-Extra-Durable/dp/B00JEADDCO/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1542679782&sr=8-9&keywords=cat+scratching+post+for+large+cats
   
   ​
   
   
3. Food: my kitties were fed taste of the wild at the breeders, but I transitioned them to Orijen cat and Kitten Food. Extremely pricy but as far as dry food goes some of the best.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Orijen-Dry-Cat-Kitten-Food/dp/B01I3IBQG2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1542680125&sr=1-4&keywords=orijen+cat+and+kitten+12
   
   ​
   
   
4. Cat litter: My previous cats developed issues from the dust from clay based litters. We switched over to something more natural when i got these MCs...like walnut shells!
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Naturally-Fresh-Multi-Cat-Quick-Clumping-Litter/dp/B00BPA12MO/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1542680260&sr=1-7&keywords=blue+litter
   
   ​
   
   
5. Cat Shelves - If you have a blank wall i definitely recommend this! We had to tweak ours a little because the shelves we purchased were entirely too small for Maine Coons. And also had to add supporting brackets. Everyday its a fight on who gets the cat shelves! and if its in a common area, its definitely a way for them to be present and still in their own space up high.
   
   ​
   
   
6. Pet insurance. If you can afford to get ur kitten Pet insurance I recommend this. Maine coons since they are a larger breed are prone to things like hip displaysia, HCM, and other genetic diseases. It makes caring for them a little easier as they get older. We use Healthy Paws Pet insurance for our two Maine Coons and i highly recommend them! I want to say as a kitten they started out between 10 and 20 dollars a month?
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   Everyone has given u a lot of wonderful advice here! Some of which i actually wish I knew when i was getting my babies! Good luck and enjoy your new kitten :)
   
   ​
   
   ​
   
   ​

I'm guessing the vet checked her for a urinary tract infection? If not, that would be the first thing you should do.

>The fact that she only pees inside when we are present tells me this is no accident, I think she might still be testing her boundaries

Probably not. It's pretty common for a dog to be house trained in their house, and have accidents in a new place. Dogs are often not good at generalizing; they're all houses to us, but to dogs, a new house can be a completely new situation.

>trainer says to only scold her if we witness the crime

That can lead to your dog not going to the bathroom in front of you anywhere (including outside). You should avoid scolding / making a big deal if she has an accident in the house.

>Vet told me to make her smell it, say “No” and point her to the place she’s supposed to go do it

That's outdated, ineffective advice. Punishment more than a minute or two after an unwanted behavior is very ineffective / useless and just confuses / scares your dog. I don't expect vets to know everything about dog behavior (unless they're advertising themselves as behaviorists), but they should know basic stuff like this. I would be very skeptical of behavior advice from this vet.

>the correct way

1. Don't give the dog the opportunity to eliminate inside. You need to be actively watching her (tethering to you is a really good idea) or have her in an appropriately sized crate when you're not able to supervise her.
   
   
2. Give her plenty of opportunities to eliminate outside. Take her out every X minutes (it's going to depend on the dog, 30 minutes might be a good starting point) and after eating and playing so it is easy for her to succeed. As she gets more reliable, you can start to lengthen the time between taking her out.
   
   
3. Make awesome things happen when she eliminates outside. You mentioned praise, but that probably isn't enough for your dog. Really good treats ("human food"), favorite toys, or play are often way more valued by dogs than "praise". Throw your dog a "you peed outside!" party every time she goes outside. You need to have the treats / toys ready because the reward needs to happen immediately after the desired behavior (less that a second between the behavior and reward is a pretty good goal). After eliminating outside becomes a habit for her you can start toning down / eliminating the rewards if you want.
   
   
4. If / when the dog eliminates inside, try to calmly / gently interrupt her and take her outside. It's almost always your fault (weren't paying attention to her, not taking her out often enough) so figure out why it happened and fix your training plan.
   
   >she will not go in the garden if one of us isn’t with her
   
   At least for now, you're going to have to go out with her so you can reward her right after she eliminates. I would guess that after she figures out the garden is where she's supposed to pee and that awesome things happen out there, the problem will go away.
   
   >she sometimes pees on the carpet in the house, usually just a little… regularly on the same spot.
   
   You need to clean that spot really, really well with an enzymatic cleaner like https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-Eliminator-P-5727/dp/B003I5VTRW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1472729937&sr=1-1&keywords=natures+miracle to make sure that the smell is completely gone. You might also want to try to physically block off the area (for now) so she can't pee there any more.

I live in the US so I don't think I can guide where to buy things. However, I can only imagine you have discount type stores similar to Walmart (if you have dollar stores I wouldn't buy food from there, toys should be OK).

TIPS

• Especially being short on money, but regardless, I would put aside a set amount each month into an emergency fund just in case.
  
  
• Set boundaries from day 1. If you don't want kitty in your room, then don't allow her to do so just because she's new.
  
  
• Take your kitten to the vet shortly after receiving her. Many shelters near me offer a free vet check at selected vets, or a coupon. But even so, a wellness visit does not cost much.
  
  
• Jackson Galaxy suggests putting the litterbox in a place socially significant to the cat.
  
  What I must have before I get a cat?
  
  
• Litterbox
  
  
• Litter Scoop
  
  
• Litter - I use Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter. It's affordable (lasts me personally longer than a month), and does extremely well hiding the odor.
  
  
• Toys, buy a variety at first to see what your cat likes.
  
  
• Cat Tree (optional but if your kitty is a climber she will like it.). Amazon has affordable ones as well. You could also try Chewy.com
  
  
• Ceramic or Stainless Steel food dish and water bowl.
  
  
• Collar and tags.
  
  
• Brush.
  
  
• Food - I buy Bambi a 3.5lb bag of The Goodlife in the salmon flavor. She loves it and it's affordable at about $7 a bag. I also feed her wet food. I buy the box of Fancy Feast the poultry and beef mix or something like that this costs about $14 a box and lasts 24 days because I feed her a can a day. People will knock Fancy Feast because there's a grain-free trend going at the moment, but 1) she won't eat the more expensive fancy stuff, and 2) I don't think it's necessary, but to each their own. Like everyone has a right to raise their child however, everyone can raise their kitties however. :)
  
  
• Flea/Heartworm/Tick preventative. May be different there, but I like to be proactive. Even if you have an indoor cat, you can bring fleas inside on your clothes. Mosquitoes fly and can come inside. Tick, not sure, but I assume they could also hitch a ride on your clothes. Personally Bambi is just on a flea preventative as I have not found an affordable product that does it all. Revolution seems to be pretty popular though you have to go to the vet for this. I use Advantage II on Bambi. Can't recall the cost at the moment.
  
  
• Scratching posts/pads - You will want more than one but they last a long time.
  
  Things I should do as soon as I got him/her?
  
  They say to isolate the cat when you bring them home so as to not overwhelm them. I personally just let Bambi out and she looked around the apartment and then hid under a bed for awhile. Don't be alarmed by this as a new environment is overwhelming for a cat and you are new to them. It can take several days to several weeks before they feel comfortable.
  
  Where can I adopt a kitten?
  
  I believe kitten season is coming up (at least here anyways) so you can most likely find them in shelters, and I would recommend you adopt from a local shelters. Most shelters will post their available cats/kittens online or on their website. You can do a search and find both (pet adoption search engine, and local shelters).
  
  
• If you decide to adopt a kitten note that they require much more time and energy. You also should kitten-proof your house as they may get into things they shouldn't or chew on things they shouldn't such as wires. There are also usually more kitten appropriate toys and food to purchase.
  
  Good luck and enjoy your new furball when you get her!
  
  EDIT: Formatting
  

Crazy cat lady here, I have four in my apartment. Unless they are lying to me, everyone that comes over is always shocked I have cats because it doesn't smell like it "should". I have two air purifiers in the house these and I have this one that sits directly on top of the litter box. I've had my four cats around 10 years and also fostered probably about... 30. So I feel like I've tried it all and I finally have a good ritual and set up. I use this litter box because it's big and tall which they prefer but also easy to get inside when it's time to clean. I use this track mat because so far it's really done the best to keep the litter from traveling far from the box. And like you, I clean it 2-3 times a day. The litter that is. I use this litter which is LIGHT YEARS better than anything else I've ever used. One of my cats also has horrible allergies and this is the one litter I've found that she doesn't react to. It also doesn't dust so you don't have to constantly feel like poofs of litter are showing up around the house or on the carpet or furniture. I also vacuum every single day. I have one vacuum I use for the floor where there may be litter tracked and another I use that never touches litter. I think this is fairly important. This vacuum honestly is the best I've found for hair. Miracle worker. Unless you can afford the Dyson Animal. I also have this spray that I'll use for my carpet and fabric once a month or so and I feel like it makes a huge difference. And then lastly I also keep windows open whenever I can and I have this diffuser and put oil in it a few times a week and let it run for a bit, plus it looks cool with the lights :) Oh! and one last thing that I think is great... put one of those cardboard scratch pads near the litter box so the cat has to step over it to get anywhere else. Like off the track mat but near the box. I do this and all the cats inevitably use the scratch pad for fun when walking by it but I'm convinced it also cleans their paws from any litter left over before they start walking around the rest of the house!

Wait wait! If you doooo happen to still have a question...

Please ask it here at this fancy IAMA I made for you. :)

**

I have accomplished this mission! And it was so worth it. Esp for all the small NYC apts I've been living in. The process took about two months. Which means whatever toilet the cat has claim to, you have to kinda just deal by moving it.

I suggest buying this kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Litter-Kwitter-Quitter-Toilet-Training/dp/B0014N70QO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=home-garden&qid=1301077377&sr=8-1

The $15 onetime use ones do work, but I ended up buying this because I found it helps to be able to re-outfit the toilet sometimes with the last ring and litter, just to remind him what's what. The Litter Kwitter has instructions and guidelines for what age to start and what steps to take. It's also a much more elegant solution than the onetime uses.

The Success Story:
Cat uses the toilet! I hardly ever touch litter (but I keep some around). And guests gawk if they are ever fortunate enough to witness his skills. This is prob his own personality, but my cat likes to announce before he goes with meowings. And sometimes he'll beat me to the toilet. Absolutely worth it to wait for him and think about all the litter I'm not touching.

The "Failure" Story:
Cats like to communicate via bowel movements. So when I've been on vacation too long or something else bugs him, (or someone leaves the lid down!!) he'll forgo the toilet for different types of fabric around the apt. This is not too different from other cats except that once it's fixed he's re-discovered that the floor was much easier to position on than the toilet. Hence the need for the last ring and some extra litter. I've found that setting up the last stage of the training will convince him to go "on" the litter without much of a struggle. Then it's just about waiting that last week of the training again to ween him off the litter/tray.

Note that your litter box can now become something of a bargaining chip. If I know I'm going away for a week or so I'll put out the litter box for him. And he seems to think it's a fair trade, when I come back he'll shape right up.

That's it pretty much it in a nutshell. You gotta keep his short term memory connecting the toilet to the place to go. And then just track his health they way you would for any kitty.

Extra tidbits:**

• he's only ever fallen in 1.5 times (in 2-3yrs-ish) when startled and I quickly bathed him
  
• he's had a couple urinary tract infections and being able to see the actual color of his pee has really helped make him better
  
• he smells good for a lot longer btwn baths! and doesn't track litter around the house! awesome
  
• white vinegar is your best friend for disinfecting hardcore and destroying cat urine smell forever. Just poooour it on and wait for the smell to dry away and you won't smell a bit of the urine - it also gets rid of the secret cat chemicals, so my cat forgets that piece of fabric was ever a pee spot.
  
  Anything else you wanna know, I'm game. :)
  
  EDIT: Included IAMA link at top

How long has it been since you've brought this up with the vet and had your kitty checked out? You said he had crystals last year, but have you taken it back since? I'd say this needs to be step one.

>In addition to a complete physical examination, your cat should have a complete blood count, blood chemistry panel and urinalysis. Other tests, such as radiographs that use special dyes to outline the urinary tract, may be necessary as well. If an underlying condition is determined to be the cause of your cat’s house soiling, the medical problem should be treated, and her response to treatment should be closely monitored. Once any medical problems are treated, you may still need to retrain your cat to reestablish normal litter box elimination patterns.

Source


Secondly, you can pray all you want, but I'm afraid the smell is not going to magically go away on its own - this is a matter YOU are going to need to actively take into your own hands, and because cat urine smell is a real b*tch to get rid of, you are gonna need to start this process ASAP, like, now... Ready?

Get this Nature's Miracle stuff. As you may already know, you can't just use any ol' cleaner to remove cat pee because cat pee has superpower-like properties involving enzymes and the like that make it resistant to ordinary cleaning products. The aforementioned Nature's Miracle is basically a cleaner on steroids that has the properties needed to break down and eliminate stubborn cat pee. Use it and go to town cleaning every kitty-sprayable inch of your house. I tell you to start now because you may have to go through this process several times to thoroughly get rid of all of it. If you enjoy hardcore housecleaning as much as most people, this isn't going to be fun, but if you want to keep your cat, this is what it will take to get rid of the offending stank and hopefully it'll help in stopping your cat spraying by removing the spraying-cat-attracting odors.


And seriously, take Kitty back to the vet, because it may very well still be a medical issue, and if it is, you can clean all you want but it won't stop kitty from spraying and therefore all your cleaning efforts will be for naught. So pray all you'd like, but don't forget vet + cleaning to increase your chances of stopping the problem and keeping kitty. I wish you all the best.

=) we love to help fellow kitty owners!

I have found that if you play with your kittys paws while they are very sleepy or asleep you'll have a much easier time clipping their nails as they get older. Of course, I always recommend nail grinding over clipping because its smoother, lasts longer and it tickles vs pinches however, shes a baby and that will take some training!

get lots of toys! and play with her often. remember, just like your puppies need walk and play time, she does too! you can even train a cat to talk on a leash so you can take her with you on your walks with the dogs.

i have found my cat likes moving water and will absolutely NOT drink water from a bowl or anything thats sitting still. I use this fountain instead. Makes for happy kitty. hydration is very important!

as others have said, scratching posts are important. don't forget your flea, tick, and heartworm medications. Also, kitties should be brushed. My cat is scared of brushes so I use this which he adores and gets very excited when he sees it.

dogs like to eat cat poop for whatever unexplainable reason. please do yourself a favor and invest in a closed litter box sorta like this. its worth it!!

I haven't tried these but heard good things about them on other forums and the reviews are very positive, especially since Nature's Miracle switched scents and ruined a good product. Just a few suggested Amazon links that might work well for you. Not sure if anyone else can suggest them or not.

Rocco & Roxie Professional Strength Stain & Odor Eliminator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/

Sunny & Honey Pet Stain & Odor Miracle: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4Z5B24

Zero Odor Pet Spray: https://www.amazon.com/Zero-Odor-Eliminator-Trigger-ounces/dp/B0049PBWEA/

Bubba's Rowdy Friends Pet Supply Company Pet Stain and Odor Remover Enzyme Cleaner Spray: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GK56SVE/

First thing you're gonna hear on this sub is get the boys checked by a vet. With cats urination issues are sometimes symptoms of very serious and sometimes fatal conditions. What you're also gonna wanna do is:

1. Make sure the litter box is frequently scooped (at least once a day). And the entire box should be emptied and refilled fresh at least every few weeks. The standard rule for the number of litter boxes required is the number of cats plus one. So in an ideal world they should have access to 3 litter boxes. If that's not gonna happen and they just have the one then it needs to be scooped VERY frequently. Try and position the litter box near a problem area. It can be moved once the problem has been resolved but it will make the retraining easier. You can add Litter Attract to the litter box and that will make it more tempting for them to use it.
   
   
2. Cats will pee in the same area. The spots they have peed in need to be cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner like Natures Miracle. Nothing else will work. Even if it looks clean and smells clean to you, the cats will still smell it.
   
   
3. If the cats are causing a ruckus at night then they need to be played with more. Get some interactive toys like the wands and play with them until they pant. A tired cat is a good cat.
   
   
4. Many people on this sub recommend and use feline pheromone spray/diffusers/collars. Feliway is the top brand. It can help problem cats calm down and be more comfortable.
   
   I'd also recommend you or your parents watch some videos on youtube by Jackson Galaxy aka the Cat Whisperer. This guy knows his stuff. Here's a few videos to get started:
   1
   2
   3

Sorry I can't help you out - we're in the same boat financially - but I wanted to let you know that this stuff right here is great: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=36N3KEYR7492&coliid=I37BT3LL5HHPDH&psc=1

It lasts us much longer than Arm & Hammer, is better at odor blocking while being pretty much unscented itself (it doesn't have that weird cleaner-meets-citrus smell that litters like A&H have), and it's way cheaper than Arm & Hammer ($18 for a 40lb bag). If you haven't tried it before, I recommend checking it out when you get a chance (or adding it to your wishlist if you like).

Anyway, just wanted to let you know about it. We're a three cat household as well, so we're always looking for the best and most economical stuff when it comes to pet supplies.

Good luck!

I don't have experience with building or buying cabinet to hide litter box, though you may do some googling around with diy searches for your specific box.

I do have experience with two other options of concealing litter boxes which I thought I would share based on past experience with old apartment, and recent experience with new apartment. They may be helpful if you don't mind switching.

Top entry box hidden in a hallway closet: https://www.overstock.com/Pet-Supplies/Clevercat-Innovations-Top-Entry-Litter-Box/6423254/product.html?

This one minimized litter being kicked out. This option was great solution in old apartment which I had extra space to keep the box in a spare hallway closet. It can also be kept in a utility closet with a door cracked open as it takes up minimal space. I threw in motion sense lights in the closet so my cat could see to more easily navigate getting around.

The option I use now in my living room is a covered litter box which looks like a plant: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MPR2GI/ and I bought a tub to go inside of it so I could easily dispose of used litter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BD5DRQ/

I didn't want a cabinet because to make it look acceptable in the room, it'd need to be a side table and honestly I didn't want to smell cat s*** while sitting on the couch. This plant litter box is nice looking and it's easy enough to spray paint it another color. So far, so far with it. My cat hasn't even knocked off the fake plant on top.

It does an ok job of containing the smell. A good litter will help and so will cleaning daily. It does even look good in my living room and you wouldn't pick out that it's a cat litter box. I face the opening towards the wall so you "litter"ally cannot see the litter or entry opening.

Good luck with whatever you choose to do. It's no fun having an exposed kitty box out in the human living space so I hope you figure something out!

First step is cleaning and vet. Take both cat's to the vet because sometimes this behavior is due to bladder infections, kidney issues, UTI's.. etc. It is essentially them saying "Hey something is wrong".

Get a good Enzymatic Cleaner and start scrubbing. Everywhere they have peed on the floor (or pooped). Buy or use a good scrub brush and some rubber gloves and just get it really good.

Next step is to clean out the litter boxes and put fresh litter in both (you really should have 2, 1 for each cat) but save some poop (just one scooped bit) from them and put it in the fresh one. It kind of helps them with association. Make sure the litter boxes are big enough for the cat's (1.5 cat lengths long and 1 cat length wide). Also make sure they are in low traffic areas of the house or covered (even kitties like privacy).

If none of this works then I honestly don't know what else to do. This is all the things I have done and they have worked in the past when we had kitties that had bathroom issues. Good Luck :)

Kaytee Clean and Cozy is my favorite soft paper bedding. It's kind of simlar to CareFresh, but I've found it to be superior in every way. It expands more, it's generally cheaper for the volume, and it's definitely less dusy in my experience. It won't be quite as good as fleece, because I think basically nothing other than maybe large shredded cardboard bedding would be the same.

I use fleece now for my rats cage, and in their litter boxes I've been using a mixture of Clean&Cozy and Yesterday's News, which is a pretty popular paper pellet litter. It's not soft though- literally it looks identical to my rabbits food; both my rats and my rabbits tried nibbling it when I first switched over haha. I don't think it would work well for a whole cage though; if you wanted to litter train, the two litters are different textures enough that the contrast might be helpful for box training.

Good on you for trying to do right by your dog! It sounds like her quality of life is generally good for a senior dog. I know how frustrating and exhausting it can be to clean up after an incontinent dog - believe me, I know! - but destroying an otherwise healthy dog for something like this is unconscionable.

You've already gotten good advice here, but I wanted to offer a clean-up suggestion that might make your parents more tolerant of her incontinence. Have you tried Nature's Miracle? It's great for getting rid of urine smells. You can also sprinkle baking soda onto a smelly rug, let it sit for an hour or two, and vacuum it up to help neutralize odors.

My pup takes a prescription medication that caused temporary excessive thirst and excessive urination while he was adjusting to it. Our vet encouraged us to schedule his water intake during that time. Basically, while he was adjusting to the medicine he was getting all the water he needed, but timed in such a way that made accidents less likely. He got 2/3 of his overall water with his meals, and then got a potty break shortly afterwards. The other 1/3 of his water was given at other times, but in smaller increments. (I felt really funny/bad about doing this, but both our regular vet and the amazing, extremely competent specialist who prescribed this medication suggested it, and it did work well.) So you might check with your vet to see if this would be safe/appropriate for your dog.

I've also been giving him this bladder supplement. I'm not sure if it's really working, but it could be worth a try for you. (Always check with your vet about adding supplements to your dog's diet, of course!)

Thanks for responding. Good to know the shelter is no-kill, that is important. A few things I would recommend but most of them do cost money so its up to you if you want to give them a shot.

• talk to the vet about behavior meds. Maybe prozac isn't right but there are others that may help. As you pointed out, she is obsessively licking. Obsessive licking to the point where fur is gone is a huge warning sign and the cause of that could be the cause of her litterbox issues.
  
  
• try the feliway, probably the room diffuser. People I know have had mixed results but maybe it will help your cat (the idea is that is puts out "happy cat smells" so they don't pee everywhere - people can't smell it) Put it in the rooms you don't want her peeing in.
  http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003E6WSHK
  
  
• Try a self-cleaning litterbox. If your cat is extra concerned about cleanliness maybe scooping the litterbox once a day isn't enough for her. Sounds like a hassle but there are some cheaper solutions out there now. I suggest the Simply Clean or the Littermaid.
  SimplyClean: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000GF0X38
  Littermaid: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0097576MY
  
  
  good luck, whatever your decision. :)
  
  EDIT: saw your post about the feliway above, sorry for repeating. responded to your post before reading other replies.

Bummer. Firstly, congrats on your new kitty bud! Have you taken him to the vet to make sure he doesn't have any health problems?

Secondly, it's definitely not too late to change his behavior, but you'll want to nip this in the bud. I assume you've washed your bedding - does it still smell like pee at all? It's very important that all of the smell is gone so that your cat doesn't smell his old pee and think, "this is the place to go!" I've had problems with my littlest cat peeing inappropriately and we had good luck removing all traces of urine by combining an enzymatic based cleaner with a peroxide based cleaner and soaking the items over night.

As far as getting him to use the litter box, you may want to purchase some cat attract litter. It's expensive though, so I've typically mixed it half and half with my regular litter.

This is the part you're probably not going to like. Have you considered putting an open topped litter box (with cat attract litter) in your bedroom? It probably wouldn't have to be a permanent addition - normally, once a cat has gotten comfortable using a particular box you can move it a few feet every few days until it's where you want it.

Something else to consider is that cats don't usually pee/poop where they eat, sleep, or hunt. You could try giving him treats on your bed, or bringing him to bed with you at night, or using a laser pointer to play with him on the bed.

Hope this helps! This can be a very frustrating situation but try to have patience!

I’ve seen a lot of people post about using pine pellets with great success (apparently even the wood stove pellets would work). They’re cheaper than the feline pellets that are marketed for cats and do the same thing. I haven’t used them (I will be though!) but that seems like a good solution for you to mask the smell without the fake smell and not being a mess. They disintegrate and the sawdust will sink to the bottom so it shouldn’t be as messy.
Also I’ve read that sprinkling some baking powder in the litter box also helps with the smell.

You could also try a litter box like this. Should help from getting litter everywhere especially if you use it with the pine pellets. Good luck!

Price of owning kitten: $60 to buy includes all shots

flushable litter: $34 for 32 lbs at local shop; last for 4 months (called worlds best litter: http://www.worldsbestcatlitter.com/ ) This is the best litter you can get. Trust me on that; plus you can flush it and it won't go bad over time like others.

food: Evo cat food $35 for 15 lbs at local pet shop. Feed 1/4 cup twice a day. This will last 2 months according to food regulation. Note: you shouldn't let your cat gorge, it will get fat and poop alot so regulating it will make poop duty easier and save you money on litter and food. I recommend this because it has very little grain which is why the cat doesn't have to eat much. It's also as healthy as it gets, so you save money in the long run vs friskies or something.

Litter box: top entry Top entry causes the cat not to make a mess using the litter (when it kicks it up)

I'd go with an adult cat for your first so you don't have to deal with the kitten phase plus usually they are already housebroken. So all in all its actually affordable if you can commit to it.

> . I have some Febreze spray here that I haven't used yet, but I do see that the can says to keep away from children and pets. I don't know if this spray would be harmful for her or if they just mean it so that the pet doesn't bite it or if it being in the air is dangerous to her health. It isn't that huge blue bottle, it is this thin one with a slanted top, I figured maybe I could take her out of the room to clean it and spray the Febreze then let her back in a little bit after.

Febreeze is not enzymatic cleaner. You need Nature's Miracle. Period.

> For socializing, my girlfriend has a french bulldog and there is also a pet store near by that I think could help me out with letting her play with other puppies and for her to see other people.

Has the puppy had its shots yet? You should not have them be around puppies that are also not vaccinated until your puppy itself has been vaccinated. The last thing you need on top of a puppy with a high-risk of behavioral issues to then get Parvoviros. Go here and scroll down to the "Vaccinations and Disease Risk..." section to make sure you're doing it right. If you know for a fact that your girlfriend's dog is 100% healthy and vaccinated, that should be fine.

You have a lot of work ahead of you, but you're on the right track since you're already concerned and looking to be a good owner. Good luck.

Look into getting this litter box system for your little guy.

I hope this doesn’t get flagged and I’m not a product pusher (check my previous posts and comments) but this is an amazing litter box system. We used to find litter EVERYWHERE; our bed, on furniture until I just had enough. This is awesome. It’s a dehydration system that the pee passes straight through to the weewee pad underneath and the poop’s moisture is pulled out by the dehydration pellets so when you take it out it’s just a dry log. Also, there’s no smell, so easy to take care of and really cheap. I’ve turned 3 coworkers onto this system and they will never go back to regular litter.

Also, there’s a $7 manufacturer coupon on their website so it makes it super affordable.

Cute kitten!!

PLEASE do not underestimate litter box logistics.

I live in a small apartment with three neutered males; 10, 8, and 3 years old, indoor only. Currently, I'm not having any issues, but I have worked hard to find the right litter box situation. The older ones have had all kinds of issues, including a serious kidney stone in the oldest, who got surgery a few years ago for it.

Maybe two years ago, we had a litter box problem where they were peeing in corners or close to the boxes. I had 4 of those igloos (rip off, do not buy) in the garage that they could easily access through a cat door. As it turned out, this was stressing out my cats. I can only speculate as to why -- perhaps one cat was being a bully and guarding the boxes, maybe the boxes were too small, maybe the sudden opening of the garage door was scaring them from going in the garage, etc...

so, to make a long story short, here is how I solved the problem:

1. Different litter boxes. big ones. HUGE ones.
   
   Cats do not like to feel boxed in. They are sensitive little creatures. Although they like privacy, they also need to feel like they have an easy escape route if something scares them. Use 50 gallon storage containers, and cut a door for your kitty. Do NOT use a lid. No one likes looking at cat poop, but making them go in a little closed in box at their age could be causing the problem. These DIY litter boxes are cheap, and the high walls will prevent your fur babies from flinging litter all over. here is a good example:
   http://catsadored.com/LITTERBOXES/litterbox-regular-height-wi.jpg
   
   
2. Switch litter, and use a ton of it.
   
   Now that you have 50 gallon tubs, you have plenty of space to fill. kitties like to dig -- let them! I was using the light weight pine shavings for a long time because dragging a giant bag of sand home was awful. That stuff isn't the best, and cheap kitty litter is, well, cheap. This litter had good reviews so I tried it and they loved it! Also, amazon prime will deliver it to your door. hehehe :3
   http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1450208844&sr=1-1&keywords=precious+cat+litter
   
   
3. Litter box placement.
   
   The general rule of thumb is one box per cat, + one more. So, if you have two kitties, you should have three litter boxes. I have 3 kitties, therefore I have 4 litter boxes. This way, no one fights, and if one cat is being a jerk, they have lots of other options. The hardest part in all of this is finding a place for the boxes. They're big, they're ugly, and they require easy access every day for cleaning. The important part is that they are spaced far apart. Don't let your cats watch each other go, it makes them uncomfortable. Maybe put one in each room of the shop, or house when you can finally bring them home. :)
   
   
4. Kitty Xanax and playtime
   
   I think I saw someone else posting about this too. The poor things sound like they are stressed. Help them out. You should also be showing your cats love and attention. They might not be around for all of your life, but you will be around for all of theirs. Maybe they are trying to tell you something.
   
   
5. No-Kill options
   
   sorry about the facebook link;
   https://www.facebook.com/greatbigstory/videos/1498230950479333/?theater
   
   look into adoption if you feel like you've tried everything or you are simply done dealing with it.
   
   
   I hope this helps. Also, sorry for the formatting, everything is now step 1. I don't feel like fixing it, nor do I feel like it's important. :)

I second the closed litter box. I had two of these that come with a clear flap and a carbon filter. I upgraded to a Litter-Robot but kept these just in case because they really are great. This style might be rather big for a bathroom though.


Baking soda absolutely does wonders too. I also have some charcoal bags that I keep close by.


Air purifying plants are great too. Some require low light which makes them perfect for bathrooms. Just make sure they’re non toxic. Here’s a list of safe for pet plants. Just because they’re non toxic doesn’t mean they still can’t get a tummy ache if they eat a lot of the leaves. Just don’t let them munch on them :)


And of course the obvious. Just scooping every day, changing the litter and washing the boxes makes a huge difference!

Adolescent regression! This happened to mine as well. I was shocked at first but asked my vet about it and she said it was normal that dogs between 4 mos- adulthood to suddenly "forget" their training because they are becoming bolder and more independent. It will just take extra and consistent effort on your part to solidify his housebreaking. Same techniques as you used to do when she was a pup- directly outside if you catch her in the middle of an accident. Frequent outdoor trips with her and praise when she goes, etc.


Interesting, I found that this is a great time to really solidify dog leash manners/ stay/ heal/ no jumping etc. It is EXTRA challenging but if you can lock these skills down during adolescence, they will likely stick through adulthood.


And for pet cleaning products that are specifically designed to remove the desire for dogs to remark, I'd use an enzymatic cleaner. Like this one.


Good luck and enjoy your pup's teenage angst. :)

1. An adult cat can probably tolerate for it about 3 days, on an infrequent basis. It is pretty dependent on the personality of your cat - some cats might act out destructively or gobble all their food. Most cats can regulate eating dry food so you can put a lot out at once. They definitely won't guzzle water for fun, so just put out an extra bowl. Destructive behavior from boredom can be managed with some interactive toys - maybe a Kong treat ball ect. Unless your cat has some issues, 1 litter box scooped once per day should be fine. I have 2 cats and we sometimes skip a day- nbd.
   
   
    
   
   
   
   
2. I spend about $10 a month for food (Taste of the Wild) and maybe the same on litter (Tidy Cats clumping) for each cat per month. So $20. I would plan on some start up costs for scratching posts, toys, and a litter pan. I tended to go high end on these: https://www.amazon.com/SmartCat-3832-Ultimate-Scratching-Post/dp/B000634MH8
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I
   
   But it's not a requirement. That scratching post is great though because it's nice and big, and indestructible. Also, I urge you to get sisal scratches because the texture is more unique. Carpet style scratchers teach your cat that similar fabrics are for scratching... As for vet visits, I would just make sure you have a credit card. A healthy cat, who doesn't go outside or get fleas/worms from other pets, is probably not going to cost you much. Spaying/neutering is a one-time expense, that may be taken care of by the shelter, and there are groups that do it for around $35-60.
   
   
   
   
    
   
   
   
   
   
3. Domestic mongrel 100%. They are going to be healthier in expectation, and I'm not a fan of the breeding industry. As for adult vs kitten - it's hard to say. Adult cats have more fixed personalities, that can include bad habits. Kittens have random personalities but you have a chance to influence them and for the two of you to gel. Look into local shelters to see if you can foster - that way you can make sure you have a good fit without committing. If you foster kittens, get at least 3. If you get a pair, you have a higher chance of keeping both.
   
   
   
   

I have a top-entry, not that exact one but one like it. Of my 3 cats, one of them prefers the top-entry to all others, one of them will use the top-entry but it's not his go-to, and the third won't use it at all. The one who likes the top-entry best is my big boy who is not only large for a domestic shorthair but also, despite my best efforts, fat. He fits in it just fine, I think the top-entry box I use could fit my parents' Maine Coon comfortably.

I would be more concerned about your senior and the kitten. The kitten may not be big enough to handle the jump out of the box, and the senior cat's abilities depend on their condition. My senior is the one who won't use it.

Awwww...that is a super - gorgeous kitty!!

I have had rescue kitties and fosters for years, this changed my life and made kitty ownership 1000x more enjoyable! Tidy Cats Cat Litter, Breeze, Litter Box Kit System, 1 Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001411SK0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_YEWsxbZRRAG2E

Enjoy that pretty kitty!!

I love the Omega Paw non-scooping box. Here is the Amazon link to it. It's super cheap, super easy to clean, and yeah, no scoop.

I buy $10 40 lb box of clumping kitty litter once every few months or so at Wegmans and I'm good.

Looks like you have a good list going, remember to update your pups microchip with your address and get him/her a tag with your details.

We got a 36 inch crate and it's plenty big for our boy (he's around 30 pounds).

Puppia harness is a great starter harness, it's soft and doesn't have a bunch of metal jingling pieces which our puppy HATED on his harness our breeder gave us.

Kibble, check out dog food advisor for reviews and ratings of foods content, we were using grain free salmon and sweet potato from chicken soup for the soul, it's decently priced and well rated I can't find it anywhere atm so we're switching him back to their normal kibble.

Salmon Oil is a lifesaver in the winter, our pup gets terribly dry skin and extremely itchy without it.

Start out with a puppy kong, they sell kong fillers that are cheese and peanut butter flavored, our puppy was pretty picky at first and only ate the cheese one, didn't like frozen kongs either.

I'd start with a Basic Collar here's a Dog Tag Silencer and a Break-away collar for outdoors or dog park. A dog was choked unconscious at our park so I typically just keep our guys ID tags on his harness and don't use a collar, but if you do I definitely recommend a break-away if you are primarily using a harness with it.

Items we found useful: Bed Liner, Crate Fence, Kong, Stainless Steel Bowls (highly reccomend US made do not buy any made in China for health reasons), Zippy Paws Hide and Seek toys, Potty/accident cleaner, Potty Bells, Anti-chew Bitter Apple spray, 50 ft Leash, Retractable Leash, Soft stop Leash extender, Car Seat Belt, Car Booster Seat, Gentle Shampoo, Comb, Travel Water Bottle, Flirt Pole, Special Treats, Chew Stick, Greenies

Sorry for the HUGE list lol, feel free to ask any questions!

A new litter box! My kitty has some intestinal issues that make his poops smell pretty rank, and he drinks a lot of water to help his tummy making him pee A LOT and he is a big cat so these are like big urinations. Regular litter just doesn't cut it after only a couple of days of changing it. Plus he tracks it EVERYWHERE. I hear this litter box is great for odor control AND tracking. It would be absolutely wonderful to have it because the normal litter just isn't working anymore. Plus I think my roommate would appreciate it as well.

I recommend this brand from Amazon. For 40LBs, the price is currently at $13.10. It goes on a price "sale" often and the price varies a bit from time to time.

Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter
https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK

The litter does not smell and clumps wonderfully. The best part is for the benefit of the cat--when the cat kicks up the litter too energetically, there isn't a dust storm!

I highly suggest this. Holly shit this thing is a lifesaver. Worth every penny.

As for fur, dogs shed too, but it helps with both species if you brush them daily... get the fur onto a brush rather then all over the house. I use this thing works pretty good, but I'm betting there are other ones on the market that work better.

Hope this helps!

Yes. I personally prefer this stuff because it is mostly dust-free and does a great job at absorbing and not stinking... I like the non-scented variety.

Edit to add: Carefresh is nice but this is comparable in a pinch.

I like to put the pellets in the bottom of the litter pan and then put some white fluffy stuff on top. It helps with the cost but I do it because the white fluff helps me to monitor bun's urine color and watch for sudden potential changes in wellness.

My sister gets Yesterday's News litter for our kitties and it's awesome. It looks a little weird but absorbs smell really nicely and it also absorbs pee so you don't have to scrape out those giant sticky piss clumps that cement themselves to the box every you go to clean out the litter. Even better it doesn't track kitty litter crumbs all over. My sister gets hers on Amazon but I've seen it at regular stores too.

Here's the link 😊 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002AQ0BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495645333&sr=8-1&keywords=yesterdays+news+cat+litter

I have this PetSafe one. It's kindof infomercially, but it works quite well. I've never had the rake get stuck or mess up or anything. There is kindof a weird thing where the little lid that covers up the poop-holding compartment sometimes will get stuck open, but I can't figure out if that's a design flaw or if my toddlers are messing with it. It could even be the cat messing with it (he likes to clean his paws after using the litter box by rubbing them really hard on the sides of the box). Also, it doesn't make a big difference because the silica gel litter takes care of the odor well enough that I don't notice any difference in that.

The only catch is that you must use silica gel litter for it to work (clumping litters will fuck up the rake, I think). And the only issue with that is that stepping on tracked-out silica gel litter is one step below stepping on Legos. Otherwise, it contains odor very well.

On that note, their official refills are basically just cardboard boxes filled with silica gel litter (and lined with a liquid-impermeable material). I bought the reusable plastic liner along with the official litter packs and it's worked great. I initially was buying a different silica gel litter in larger bulk quantities to save a little money over using their official refills, but I never found a source that was that much cheaper than the official refills, and the convenience of (1) having the refills be measured out to a good amount to just dump in the box and go and (2) setting them up on Amazon Prime subscription is worth the premium to me.

Many cats develop behavioral problems, especially litter box issues, when exposed to stressful situations. Obviously the cats' owners need to step up and take responsibly for their pets. That being said, here are some things you can suggest:

• Ensure that their litter boxes are located a low traffic area and kept clean (scoop at least once a day).
  
  
• Ensure that the cats have enough litter boxes. The general rule of thumb is one box for each cat plus one extra.
  
  
• Provide a scratching post or scratching pad. The corrugated cardboard pads are cheap and cats love them.
  
  
• Provide toys for them to play with instead of shoes. (Note: they are then likely to play with the toys IN your shoes, so better to just put them away.)
  
  
• Clean anything that had cat pee on it with an enzyme cleaner such as Nature's Miracle. Even after you clean it up, the cats will still be able to smell it and may be more likely to pee there again. If you replace your mattress but then use the same sheets/comforter that they previously peed on, this could be a problem.
  
  
• Even if you are now keeping your bedroom door closed, I recommend that you get a waterproof mattress protector. You never know when a cat might sneak in there, and it could save you a lot of money. I have one of these on each bed in my house, and no one (not me, not my husband, nor any of our frequent guests) ever notice it.
  
  
• If the cats are bothering your allergies, I suggest trying Zyrtec (or its generic equivalent). It helps a lot of people with pet allergies (myself included).
  
  
  
  Good luck!
  
  Edited: forgot a )
  
  Edit #2: Just saw your username, and would now like to repeat my recommendation to buy a mattress protector.
  
  

Him not being angry about it is love right there!

Btw, if you find you still have issues with smell on the bed after cleanup, consider getting Nature's Miracle.

When my dog was in her last couple weeks, she lost bladder control while sleeping on the bed. She was a large dog and we weren't expecting it. We blotted up as much as we could, then doused the area with Nature's Miracle. After letting it sit for a bit, we covered it with a folded towel. It took a couple days to dry thoroughly (we did change out the towel, too!), but we never had an issue with odor after. (Of course, this was on an innerspring mattress and not memory foam or anything, so your mileage may vary.)

Once it was dry, we wrapped the dog's portion of the mattress with plastic bags so she could spend her last days snuggling with us.

Best of luck to you and him! :)

I'm a new cat owner and I've done a ton of research into automatic litter boxes myself. The only conclusion that I've been able to come to is that they all pretty much suck. They either jam up, don't clean well, break after a short life cycle, or have other issues. Even expensive units like the Litter Genie or the top end Litter Maid units are not without significant issues.

If you have questions about specific brands I'd be happy to share what I've learned.

Right now my cat is using the closest thing to self cleaning I could find, the Omega Paw Self-Cleaning Litter-Box.

If you have a cat that does not mind a covered box this thing is amazing. Cleaning the litter box is a 60 second process and I never have to touch pet waste. I can not recommend this product enough.

I'm no expert on dogs and litter boxes, so perhaps someone else in the community can help you out. My best guess would be to put the box of your choice in a location where the cat can get to it easily but the dog cannot get to it at all.

Best of luck with your kitty!

The best way to prevent doggy messes is to immediately start crate training. Get your dog used to the crate, and over time you can slowly let your dog have a bit more freedom in the apartment. And if he's out for play or hanging out then you have to supervise him and hopefully distract him and take him outside if you see him about to start his business.

You can get an odor/stain remover and have that handy for accidents. As far as killing the carpet, you have to let them know that there are better, more fun alternatives.

Zak George's Dog Training youtube channel is a good place to start learning, imo. But honestly, I can't stress crate training enough. You have to teach the dog where it's okay to go.

Great, thanks for that info on the aspen, it sounds like it won’t be the best option for litter boxes. For paper pellet litter, you’re talking about something like this,

https://www.amazon.com/Purina-Yesterdays-News-Unscented-Litter/dp/B0002AQ0BQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=39IH0VULM46G9&keywords=paper+pellet+bedding&qid=1554233702&s=gateway&sprefix=paper+pellet+bedd&sr=8-1

?

Thanks again!!

Edit: JUST KIDDING, I just saw your post from 2 years ago that said yesterday’s news contains 40% sawdust.
😮

I have my kitty set up in the guest room. I too HAVE to conceal the litter box because my dogs love to have a kitty poop snack and they dig into the litter and make a huge mess on top of everything. The solution was to get two LACK side tables from ikea (7 dollars each) and cover them with fabric on all sides with a single opening large enough for Lily to fit through. Underneath, there is a high walled litter pan and we are using Precious Cat as our litter. It is completely odorless and low dust. I only start to smell the poopies if I slack on cleaning it for 2-3 days (I know! sorry)

Whenever we have a guest over, which is rare any way, I simply move the litter box to our bedroom. The tables stay in the guest room as part of the decor and they don't even realize it was a cat toilet moments ago. And when we have people over that aren't sleeping, I can easily close the door and it's completely out of sight. I can even leave the cat in there and she'll be perfectly happy until the guests go away. Good luck!

the box is just a little bigger than our old box, but it's really cute. It's grey and purple and the litter are these cute little light blue crystals, hehehe.

He first bought the Litter Maid one... DO NOT get that one! It's so loud it will wake you at night and it broke a lot.

This is the one we have now... http://www.amazon.com/Brilliant-Pet-SX3-ScoopFree-Self-Cleaning/dp/B000ELUQQS

It's very, very quiet... I can't even tell when it's cleaning unless I'm looking right at it :)

(edit: we also have three cats, so I would imagine you'd have to actually actively clean it even less than once a week if you just have one)

My cats use this box: https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Top-Entry-Litter-White/dp/B01MRV5YNO/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1550855736&sr=1-4&keywords=top+entry+litter+box I use walnut litter, so I still have to sweep up a bit around the box every once in a while if they violently jump out of it, but it keeps everything in really well 95% of the time.

​

I really like Method's spray cleaners for surfaces. A harsher cleaner is not going to sterilize your surfaces unless you're willing to scrub them to death anyway, so just any cleaner that's a decent surfactant is fine. If I want to prep food, I'll spray the counter, leave it for a few minutes, wipe it off, and then go over it with a clean wet towel to get off any residue. 5 minutes, does the job. If I'm having people over, I clean more thoroughly and make sure to keep the cats off of counters and tables. You want people to be comfortable with food you serve them. Only one of them gets on counters, and she's easy enough to keep off of them if I bother to.

I love mine. I've had it for a year and a half., Instead of scooping every other day, I just replace the bag once every few days.

The smell can escape from the bag, but I generally throw some baking soda on top of the litter (which gets mixed in by the box doing its thing) which minimizes it.

One of the best things about it is that it makes the litter last forever. Since it's passively cleaning itself at all times, more thoroughly than we can with a scoop, you don't have to dump litter after a few weeks because its being less effective. I just top up the litter once a month.

A few words of advice if you opt to try it.

One, the pictures you see in the reviews. . . where all the litter is bunched up by the ramp were overfilled. When you set it up initially, fill it to the fill line incrementally with it plugged in and running.

Two, the motor will last much longer if you use a lighter weight cat litter. I use a walnut cat litter which does the job exceptionally.

Oh, an igloo like this might be a good choice. You might have to clean the sides and steps every so often, but if it helps get the poop off the feet, it might be easier than your entire bathroom.

Even though your cat’s poops appear normal, it might be worth bringing it up the next time you see your vet. They might have food recommendations that would result in more solid cleaner poops.

I know of this product from two of my friends and I see it has many great reviews so you might want to try it. Good luck :)

I have five cats and three huge cast boxes and oh my god I hate cleaning them. So. Much. Then I bought litter genies and I can't tell you how much better it is. The bag inserts can get pricey, but for me it's absolutely worth it. To conserve on the bags, too, when I cut a full bag, they tell you to cut it so there is enough material to tie it up when you pull the full bag, but I don't do that. I cut just enough that I can get the bag out without the mess falling out # then I put that bag into a plastic shopping bag and tie THAT up. Figure that saves me one more bag use from the genie kit. Seriously, I love these things. So, so much easier now to just check the box whenever I walk by and scoop into the genie if needed. It never gets gross in the litter box this way. Cannot recommend enough! I think there's ways to DIY your own bag system as well, but I'm happy with the official refills.

I use Precious Cat. I honestly don't know if it does anything, but it gives me a little peace of mind knowing I'm doing all I can.

Congratulations on your new kitty, hopefully the older boy will see her as a playmate!

I wrote this a while back... referencing this system. Essentially, it's almost dust free, and almost odorless.

"This system is actually fantastic. Minimal smell compared to regular cat litter. Moreover, easier (although a bit more complicated) set up. Not to mention almost no tracking (outside a rouge pellet).

Now I'm going to sound like a shill, however I swear by this system, it's helped me become more tolerant of cats. Once while we were having a party my Mother-in-law comes up to me and asks me where we hid the cat litter? It was a new place and at first she thought we left the cat behind (and was giving me hell about it), however there he was. She couldn't smell it at all, meanwhile I pointed down and she was pretty much standing right next to it. As long as it's clean (solid waste) it has almost no odor. It only smells shortly after he's gone, which is a trend that seems to span the entire animal kingdom."


Likewise, maybe a pc fan with a bit of filter element strapped on via a rubber band and for extra points a occupancy sensor.

Nice! That is a good idea.

I personally have THIS electric litter box and LOVE IT.

I got it last year while it was on sale for $80. It was that price just a few weeks ago so I guess it varies (it's $100 with prime currently).

I had to replace the lower motor a few months ago because I didn't realize litter dust was getting into the gears and stripped them, but it was still under warranty and now I realize to check it now and then to clear that out.

Now my cat always has clean litter, and I can dump out the tray once a week. I even line multiple grocery bags in the tray so I can just pull out one and go. (and I also place dryer sheets between each bag to pretend it gives a bit of air-freshner magic, lol).

I've never used any other kind of electric litter box so I don't know how it compares to them, but this one is so simple in it's design. The round bowl part rotates very slowly 24/7, sifting any clumps to the conveyer belt part, which carries it to the dump tray.

You have to use the right kind of litter. Quick clumping litter doesn't provide strong enough clumps, they just kind of break apart on the upward conveyer belt. I personally buy a tub of litter from Sams and it works perfectly, keep the tub by the litter box and refill it as needed. Then when I run out of litter in the tub I consider that it's time to clean out the whole thing (3 months or so).

The thing they gave with to make a higher wall doesn't stay in place at all so I just leave it off. So if your cat is prone to kicking up a lot of litter it might not work well for you.

I had two 12lb cats using it regularly with no problems.

I just really love this thing so much, I tell everyone. No more scooping or sifting. So awesome.

Of course, my cat prefers to poop in a bed of pine needles in the yard, because he's a cat and can't appreciate nice things.

Me and you are in the same boat! As of about 2 weeks ago, one of my siamese (I have 2) has started pooping right outside the litter box. The litter box is in a cabinet, so literally he or she is pooping 2 steps away from the actual box. The cats are only 5 so getting in and out of the box isn't the issue. I'm wondering if mine has to do with the fact that I had to throw away a scratch post that one of my cats loved. The one cat will only use a carpet scratch post whereas the other cats likes the rope (I still have that one). I cleaned my litter box yesterday (soap, water, the whole works). Within 12 hours, poop outside the box! So I know cleanliness isn't the issue. I'm seriously wondering now if it's because she's frustrated with having nothing to scratch on? I'm also wondering if it could be from the new baking soda deodorizer I'm using. I guess I'll have to hide that at the bottom of the litter until it runs out and see if that solves it.

Honestly, it's a guessing game. I'm going down a list basically. New scratch post. New litter mat. Different deodorizer. New litter box. Different litter.

I'm going to go through each one of those until something works. Since your cat is older, I'd definitely wonder if his mobility wasn't effecting him getting in the box. They have a cute little box with stairs if that is the issue.

I'm also taking the person's advice below of cleaning as best I can the spot where the cat has been going to eliminate the smell. I will say though, I took out the litter mat which the cat had been going on and it didn't fix the issue. They just went directly on the cabinet instead, so I'm not sure about the whole being able to smell where they went previously since it was a waterproof mat, so I wouldn't think there would have been a big smell. But I'm going to try to get rid of any smell regardless.

ETA: litter box

Buy a litter box, fill it with this. Put the litter box in your basement or a closet and scoop out the clumps every day or two. Be sure to carry the cat to the litter box several times during the first few days so he remembers where it is. I go through one of these bags of litter every two to three months.

If you have any other pets, keep the cat SEPARATED from other animals for 1-2 weeks while exchanging scents (with blankets/toys/etc.). The #1 thing cats don't do well with is change.

Total cost of ownership of a cat all depends on food. My cat eats a wet/dry mix of Wellness grain-free and Royal Canin Special 33. It's much healther than what most people feed their cat, so it's a more expensive. I'd say about $40/month. Cheap cat food will cost much less, probably around $20/mo (fancy feast classic). I'd recommend WET food over dry, dry food contains lots of grains which are NOT good or natural for cats (cats are like lions, meat-eaters!). Long term dry food will cause kidney problems.

If you decide to keep one, take it to the vet and get him tested/vaccinated/medicated ASAP. You can call the vet before hand to see what the cost will be. Take two of them!! Cats do really well with a brother/sister to play with.

Kitten attractant is something already in litter made specifically for kittens. Dr Elsey's is the one everyone swears by (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009X49IC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468566476&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=kitten+attract+litter&dpPl=1&dpID=41BSeOetVsL&ref=plSrch). Also, pool noodles are an excellent idea. My kitten used to love to go behind the fridge until I wedged some between the tight spot she squeezed through and the fridge. Good luck.

Yeah, you need a dome on those boxes. I have a litter mat in front of mine, but old carpet would probably work as well.

Edited to add: I bought this jumbo-sized domed litter box off Amazon a few weeks ago for a new kitten. It has a clear door flap on it but I fold it back to make it more open. The foster mom warned me that she was very messy with litter and this has done the trick. It's also, as I said, jumbo-sied. I've also been using this litter mat which I suppose is okay, I'm neutral on it. It does seem to work.

(I included some Amazon links to give you an idea since you mentioned Amazon, no affiliate links just the smile URL for donating to your charity-of-choice if you've set it up. You can get domed litter boxes cheaper if you click around, I just mentioned the one I got because I've been pretty pleased with it.)

I order a hell of a lot from amazon, but I have amazon prime for free (student). So 2 day shipping is free. I order most everything on there that I can wait 2 days on.

The only thing I don't order a ton of is clothes. Even if I like it, it's always tough to tell if it will fit properly. I only get clothes if it's cheap enough where it won't be a huge loss if it doesn't fit right or I don't like it. I'm talking 10 dollars or less. But recently I just invested my time into honing my wardrobe into a "capsule wardrobe" so I don't feel the need to buy new clothes anymore unless it's a size issue.

I got my macbook air, just 1 generation before this one, for 700 dollars on Amazon.

Recently I got:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009UMX0TC/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DK2A8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004WODP20/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CZ6XVNA/ref=oh_details_o08_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (this was .89 cents when I ordered it)

So much more on my wishlist too.

Dust free litter is going to have a big impact. If you like clumping but want to make things easier for your kitty, try Precious Cat - I stumbled across it on Amazon two months ago searching for a low/no dust litter for our home. It IS clay-based, but it isn't as processed and doesn't have fragrance additives. Going from Fresh Step to this has done worlds of good in my home. I've already converted my mom.

I need a way to reduce the smell of kitty poooooo so a Litter Genie would be perfect to seal in that fresh from the kitty scent.

If I were you saying "What should I stock my house with?", I'd make sure to get basic seasons and spices, organizational things such as a silverware holder, spice racks, and shelving units. Dish towels, dish dryer, and cleaning supplies are also important. There are plenty of other things that you need, but these are just a few suggestions.

Thank you for the contest and I wish you luck in the move!

Find where that cat pee smell is coming from—the sooner the better. Make sure to clean whatever it is with an enzymatic cleaner (I've had good luck with this). Otherwise, the scent can really set in, and it can be hard to get cats to stop peeing in a spot that smells like their bathroom.

Also: make sure you have enough litter boxes (maybe put an extra one near where she peed).

Thank you! And yes - totally a litter box; very favorable to my cats.

I got it from Amazon

) After looking at the promo pics, I realize the branches and leaves have gotten a bit janky over time. I'm brainstorming how to replace, which should be fairly easy. I'm feeling inspired to get all sorts of fake foliage now.

Sometimes things changing can make cats poop outside of their litter boxes - has anything happened in the house that has changed? Baby, new person, other cat, etc.?

Also, I know it seems weird but with cats with a history of not-using-litter, vets are starting to prescribe Fluoxetine (Prozac), so you may want to discuss that with your vet in case it may make a difference.

It's best to keep the litter box in the same places - quiet places that are away from the normal pathways of people. You could even try a top-entering litter box, like this one: CleverCat. This would create his own little confined poop area.

Keep us posted! Let us know if you have any more questions.

Bee being happy

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPuRAUYp9iMxyrAilpNhyWkjvo1_VRhMptk-Rb5

Interior of van after rebuild

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMV89C5EpUfIXYhWd3Ym3rHQtsh0EB9trwYraJA

two huge storage containers with wheels underneath, huge igloo cooler, 40.00 bucks at Ace Hardware, beats Amazon pricing, 70 qts and five days cooling, holds two huge blocks of ice at the bottom and several days of food, top entry litter box at base of bed, REI cot and Thermarest mattress. All folds up to allow cleaning or opening up interior space if needed.

And clevercat litterbox, for those who are interested, I'm not the only vandweller out there that uses this, much more sanitary than a standard litterbox

https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

PetSafe Simply Clean Self-Cleaning Cat Litter Box, Automatic, Works with Clumping Cat Litter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GF0X38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7DDPDbF12YYD9

My cats peed in it immediately, it is a bit bigger than an average box. I know there are mixed reviews but it is amazing for me. And their customer service is awesome.

Your puppy is still very young so I'd take him out every hour if possible. Dogs also tend to want to use the bathroom after they've played so it's possible the play time reward is making him feel like he needs to go again. Make sure you're cleaning every last scent out of his kennel so it's not encouraging him to go there, you can buy special sprays for it. I use Nature's Miracle.

I'm planning to adopt my mom's cat as a second addition to my feline family soon, so this would be very helpful.
Good luck, and stay safe!

Beautiful dog.

Do you use one of the enzyme sprays on the spot she peed? That sounds a lot like territory marking which can turn into a cycle/habit if you don't completely kill the smell (including smells you can't smell).

This stuff is awesome if you haven't been:

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=484GBW13MWTD&keywords=dog+pee+spray&qid=1556117378&s=gateway&sprefix=dog+pee+spry%2Caps%2C172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

While a visit to the vet should most definitely be priority #1, I cannot recommend this product highly enough:

http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B0009X49IC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449858212&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+attract+liter

I had a cat that suddenly started going outside the litter box. We tried everything - new boxes, twice-daily cleaning, you name it. We took her into the vet for the "last time" because I had a baby that was just starting to be mobile. The vet recommended this litter to us.

IT QUITE LITERALLY SAVED MY CAT'S LIFE.

It's a bit more expensive than regular litter, but it's not terrible and readily available on Amazon. Check out the page - lots and lots of fantastic reviews for this litter. Please give it a try!

I didn't have that much problem with ours and the Citikitti. (She took to it pretty easily, though she did tend to protest enlarged holes by pooping in the bathtub.)

The secret for me was finding the Virbac CET chews which she'd get as rewards for proper pooping. She loves those things and will seek me out and lead me to the bathroom for confirmation of her pooping properly to get hers.

Another key was litter attractant. It worked pretty well. It initially got her to consider the tray and I've used it on occasion to lure her back to proper behavior if she decides she's having none of the balancing act.

I have a recommendation from a vet-student of mine: Purina Pro-Plan. It encompasses extremely high-quality ingredients, affordable prices and various flavors/specialty blends. The dry food or wet variant are both excellent for your kitty, but the dry food will be cheaper. I would use the wet food if the kitty doesn't adhere well to drinking water as the wet-food contains high amounts of water. If you have any other questions please don't hesitate to ask. Congratulations on becoming a kitty owner!

Here are my recommendations on supplies:

Litter box: http://www.amazon.com/Catit-Jumbo-Hooded-Cat-Litter/dp/B003RQVGKC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458653&sr=8-2&keywords=litter+box

Litter scooper: http://www.amazon.com/Duranimals-DuraScoop-Litter-Scoop-colors/dp/B001DCAAP4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458674&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+scooper

Litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458691&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+litter (cheaper if you buy this one at PetSmart believe it or not)

Kitten food: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Plan-Chicken-Formula-7-Pound/dp/B003R0LLXU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458746&sr=8-1&keywords=purina+pro+plan+kitten

Litter mat: http://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-SmartGrip-Litter-Gray-Twist/dp/B007SQFRMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376458842&sr=8-1&keywords=litter+box+mat

I think they mean something like this, with the lid removed obviously: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004I8Q6RQ

Roughly how large is the cat now in terms of height/length? Does your vet have an estimate how much more it will grow?

This one has a removable lid and can be used without it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N1NAPY/ref=psdc_2975299011_t1_B003RQVGKC. It's pretty big.

My 16 pounder uses this with space to spare. Lid/door removable: https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Jumbo-Hooded-Cat-Litter/dp/B003RQVGKC

EDIT: On the second one, you can actually remove the plastic door and the gray flap on top to create a semi-covered box that partially open on top, which maybe a good compromise for a cat who needs some extra headroom.

Start out with a normal litter box, definitely. That storage box is way too high. If after she adjusts to the normal box, try something like this, which may or may not work out for your cat.

Cats in general like to see around when they're doing their business. They also like to have/need to have an escape route.

Try meeting your kitties needs and she should be much happier :)

Also I'm slightly worried about the two animals sharing a box. "A disease seen in ferrets called Ferret-FIP that is similar to Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) The virus that causes this disease is found in many cats and normally only occasionally causes a transient diarrhea. The virus is carried in the cats saliva and feces. The virus does not seem to be as infectious as was first thought and will not survive long outside the host, is killed with disinfection agents."

I bought one of these and it broke so fucking quickly. Even when it did work, half the shit missed the tray it self-scooped into and just fell onto the floor. Extremely regrettable purchase.
I have 5 cats and this is the litter box that I personally use. This isn’t an ad or anything (lol) but I really love this box so I tell everyone about it! It’s not completely self-cleaning (its not a robot, you have to roll the box onto its side and the clumps fall into a drawer) but you don’t have to do any scooping either. I recommend them to everyone, I bought 4 myself.

Definitely not. If you look up circular automatic litterbox the style will be one of the first hits.

... does Amazon get auto-blocked? https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Simply-Self-Cleaning-Automatic-Clumping/dp/B000GF0X38/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498607966&sr=8-3&keywords=petsafe+automatic+litter+box

Definitely a circular litterbox like this but I cannot say for certain which brand, honestly. With almost a track of clean litter, the idea being to scoop out all the waste and the clean stuff would be left. Worked slowly but steadily over the course of a full day.

Congrats!

We found this litter box to be very useful. Our guy has been an only cat most of his life and he likes it that way. I work from home so could interact with him a lot during the day. A second cat may help if you aren't going to be there a lot of the time. Ours had his rambunctious moments when young (lost count of unrolled toilet paper rolls), but since they are pretty sensitive it seems fairly easy to train them (I'm on my 3rd 'Blue) if you are consistent. Get the sticky paws tape early on so he doesn't pick up furniture shredding habits. I used the same tape on countertops when we went away and he learned to stay off kitchen surfaces quickly. We've never fed him "people" food so he has no interest in sampling stuff he shouldn't be eating anyways. I do regret not leash training him.

Cat Attract Litter is the only litter my cat will pee on. Otherwise the floor is more attractive.

She took to it without much coaxing, but I did give her a treat after each litter box use as a reward. She was about 5 years old at the time, and 3 years later hasn't relapsed.

Since it looks young, you can get pet insurance really cheap (we use Nationwide) and they can help with the cost of shots and all that stuff. Basic coverage is like $17 a month or something.

Also, another person mentioned scooping the litter box every day, and I recommend that as well. Or you can get this awesome litter box in the Amazon link below and all you have to do is roll it over slowly and all the clumps fall into a bin. Roll the thing back over and empty the bin and you're done. No scooping for poop. Oh and don't waste your money on a litter genie. Get a Tidy Cats 35lb litter pail, and when it's empty, just put the poo in there. Congrats, saved you money.


Omega Paw Self-Cleaning Litter Box, Pewter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005E2S77C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.34mzb8E87D4F

https://www.amazon.com/Good-Pet-Stuff-Hidden-Litter/dp/B000MPR2GI/ref=sr_1_17?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1481657768&sr=1-17&keywords=cat+litter+box

This is the one I have in my 420 sq ft apartment. It's angled in a corner and you would never know it's a litter box. Many people ask where I keep mine. It is pretty large though, not exceedingly large but bigger than I expected. Holds a good amount of litter and is easy to clean, two halves split at the equator. I've gotten a fuller fake plent to rest on top, the one it comes with isn't terrible but I wanted to find something that was more life-like.

I would recommend this litter box. Looks awesome and is excellent for keeping in the litter bits. For litter I use ones that are low dust and made for small spaces and multi cats even tho i only have one :)

I have a cat that has marked its territory somewhere she shouldn’t have (carpet), have you heard of this?

Rocco & Roxie Supply Professional Strength Stain and Odor Eliminator, Enzyme-Powered Pet Odor and Stain Remover for Dogs and Cat Urine, Spot Carpet Cleaner for Small Animal, 32 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2SrRCbR36TB34

The thing with cat pee is that they still smell it even after cleaning it out with vinegar and or baking soda so their pee needs a enzyme cleaner like the one above, the reviews are great however I haven’t boughten one cuz I can’t afford it now.

My daughter had pet dumbo rats that got loose in her room and it took 3 weeks to catch them. They pooped and peed everywhere and it made her quite sick with a respiratory infection!

We put out humane traps that we got from Amazon to catch them with banana and peanut butter in them for bait. It took about 3 tries to get themrat trap both.

We then used this cleaner to get rid of the left over feces and urine smell. enzyme cleaner

And the fruit fly infestation needs addressed ASAP! Make sure there is no standing water in the kitchen or other sinks, food left out, fruit left out uncovered, and you hang up multiple strips and change them often and move them around so they don’t start avoiding them. We used this kind over our rabbit cage and sink. fruit fly trap

All you can do is disinfect, deep clean, air the place out and really focus on humanely catching the pet rat and rehoming it or getting it a safe cage/aquarium home with lid.

Good luck and I hope you can get things improved for you and everyone. ❤️

You're probably going to want to use an enzyme cleaner product on it. Basically cleaner with bacteria that breaks down the urine. Like this for instance I would test it in an inconspicuous spot first to make sure it won't stain your seat. But it should be fine. IMO using that plus hot water extraction should remove the odor and make it like it never happened.

I hope that helps, I have a doggy of my own and I've had to use enzyme cleaner before and it seems to work well.

> What brand is the best?

What sort of cat litter are your cats used to?

For example, my cat liked the clay based cat litter, and wouldn't use the wood or paper based litter. I used Tidy Cats with a litter box liner.

If your cats are used to a certain type of litter (like, your mom buys different brands, but it's always a clay-based litter), make sure you stick with that material.

I also used a covered cat litter box and a litter mat.

Finally, I scooped 2x/day: once in the AM, once in the PM. And that was for ONE cat. Overkill? Maybe, but my house never smelled of cat urine or poo.

As a rule, cats don't like to pee/poo where other cats have gone, so I highly recommend you get two appropriately-sized boxed, box liners, and litter, and see how it goes. You might get lucky, or you might need to get a 3rd box. And start scooping on a regular schedule: I scooped right before I went to work, and right after I got home.

+1 to the cat tower.

I have 3 cats and their favorite thing to play with is packing paper! I have a ton of it in my house and they love to make tunnels and pounce in it. And it is free! I find the chewy.com uses it the most (they know their clientele).

They also like to play with their crinkle tube and any sort of wand type toy. They also like a toy called "Cat's Meow." For me, I find the most helpful item is the Litter Genie. I know I could just take the waste to the trash every time I scoop, but that is really inconvenient. The Litter Genie really contains the cat pee odor so it is really worth the extra cost to me.

Kitty photos for proof

Truthfully, I've never used a litter attractant, I just know it's a thing that exists - the animal shelter I work at sells a small assortment of basic pet supplies, and litter attractant is one of the products we sell. I am pretty sure this is the one we sell. It's got a 4-star rating on Amazon and mostly positive reviews, although there's a vocal minority for whom the product didn't work. Seems like it would be worth a try, at least, and if it doesn't work, at least it's not terribly expensive, at $12 for 20 oz.

No worries, I'd be concerned too if it were my cat.

This experience sounds very familiar, although our baby girl just turned three last month and she and our cat are like besties now. It's really incredible how much of her abuse the cat tolerates!

In terms of litter, we switched to one of those litter pellet systems and it helps a bunch: https://www.amazon.com/Purina-Tidy-Cats-BREEZE-Starter/dp/B001411SK0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495207087&sr=8-3&keywords=tidy+cats+breeze. Not perfect, as the pellets still get out occasionally, but significantly better than the old type of litter. I hope that helps!

I have had great luck in removing pet (and god forbid-people) odors in my rentals using enzyme based products. It breaks down the ammonia producing compounds:

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-Eliminator-P-5727/dp/B003I5VTRW

I recommend these products to all landlords.

My husband took over the job but he bought this litter box from amazon and we love it! It has a filter inside so all you do is roll it to the right and the clean litter sifts through the filter while the clumps collect in that scoop thingy. Then you just take the scoop out and trash it and that's it. No contact with anything.

Oh no, that's terrible. I had a cat that was like this. He'd keep peeing on the same spots on a rug and I had to re-train him.

You need to spend a few strict days with her litter training her again. After eating, after waking up from sleep and after playing take her directly to the litter box. If you notice her drinking a lot of water or something, take her to the litter box. Make sure it's not next to an unpleasant place like a washing machine or the trash. Cats don't like loud or pungent smells and their nose is really sensitive. Also make sure to keep the box in the same place and if it makes sense in your situation, have two littler boxes in different places in the house. Also, if you're using an enclosed litter box, take the top off while you train her, until you feel confident that she's using it consistently.


You also need to spot clean everything she has peed on. Rocco and Roxie's pet odor and stain remover is what I use and I have 2 cats and a puppy. It works great! It really gets in deep to rid of the scents we people can't smell but animals can. Cats, specially dominant cats, tend to pee over the place where they peed previously because they have claimed it as theirs. If it smells like urine they're likely to go pee on it again.


Also, keep your parents bedroom closed and off-limits as often as you can. It's possible to train a cat to not go into a certain room. None of my pets are allowed in my computer room unless I'm in there and they avoid it even when I keep the door open.


You can also ask your vet. It might be something else that is bothering her, maybe her food or maybe the litter that you use. Try different things. Some cats don't like scented litter or chaulk-y litter.


Good luck!

I know from years of experience that carpet enzyme cleaner made for pet accidents works wonders when used as directed, meaning you thoroughly saturate the carpet and the pad below, if need be. Seems like a good bet for gravy smell as well.

I don't know about the oil though. Maybe hot water mixed with Simple Green or a similar citrus cleaner poured deep, and then lots of blotting? Maybe that'll get rid of the smell too, so I'd try that first. Might want to try that on a hidden spot in a closet or something first, to be sure you don't experience a color change.

>Note that we only accept orders from Canada. If you want to have your order delivered to Yukon,
North-West Territories, Nunavut or Nunavik, please contact us to make delivery arrangements.

I use this which is pretty fuckin' sweet (and way cheaper).

I bought this cat litter box and it's the best one ever! I wish I had found it years ago! It's built good, not a cheapo.
https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Jumbo-Hooded-Cat-Litter/dp/B003RQVGKC

This wouldn't work for me. One of cats loves to dig. Before I started giving her access to the back yard, she would spend up to a half hour at a time just digging in the box. Even the boxes with a flap couldn't keep the litter in the box. I ended up making one of these (http://amzn.com/B0002ZS20I) out of a $5 Sterilite container, and it works perfectly. Very little litter gets out of the box at all.

We recently switched from that CareFresh style paper stuff to this walnut litter. I love it. It's not supposed to have a scent, but it smells sort of nutty to me. Makes sense, it's made of walnut after all. I noticed an improvement in odor over the paper litter, but it's not a huge difference. Scooping is incredibly easy.

There are a few solutions to this.

One, you can install a baby gate across the doorway of the bathroom. They make baby gates with cat doors, like this one: https://www.chewy.com/carlson-pet-products-extra-wide-walk/dp/54889?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Carlson%20Pet%20Products&utm_term=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI64mz9pmA5QIV-_7jBx1yLg30EAkYASABEgLD8vD_BwE

So you can leave the cat door open but your dog won't fit through (assuming he isn't a tiny dog).

You can also, if you think your cat will tolerate it, switch to a covered litterbox. I use one like this: https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Booda-Clean-Litter-Colors/dp/B0002DH8LE/ref=asc_df_B0002DH8LE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167144469268&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=236664198740175006&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015332&hvtargid=pla-277741464402&psc=1

It contains the smell MUCH better than open litterboxes and a dog won't fit up the steps. My cat isn't fussy about her box and will use open or closed ones, so test that out on your cats.

There are also a variety of top entry litterboxes (e.g. https://theidlecat.com/best-top-entry-litter-box/) that you might want to experiment with.

Honestly? I put it in area where the dogs can't reach. It's facing the wall so the cat jumps on the lid, then goes in. It works for her, but wouldn't for all dogs.

When I lived with my roommate's cat she had good luck with using the Booda Litter Box. The entrance is slightly curved with stairs so it's harder for the dog to access.

You should really get your Self-cleaning litter box Very useful, and nothing cooler really than no longer having to scoop cat poop! I mean sure you could get some fun game to play, but really, not having to scoop anymore? That's totally bunnicula cool!

As for my item, Star Wars Dawn of the Jedi because new book, yay! Can't wait to read about this time period!

Or the 100+ Random dice now that school is out for the kids, we'll be able to do more family game nights together and there's about a million things we could do with these!

Have you tried the urine destroyer stuff for cats? It works on human pee/poop as well but you'd have to be careful about where it was going I guess, but would be great for rugs/carpets.

Otherwise, baking soda and vinegar? If it's in the air you can burn candles maybe?

Let me introduce you to the Litter Genie... with a good scoopable litter and this gem right next to it, there is no excuse not to scoop the poop immediately... buy it for her and be a super duper nice guy and change it out for her weekly.
But think about your long term relationship with someone that lives like this now.


Litter Genie Plus Pail Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IRMTXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DIUVDb35WYQ0G

Ferrets can be sensitive to hay. It can cause them to itch. Words from my vet (I wanted to take cute thanksgiving pictures, which is why I inquired). You really need to scoop his litter box morning and night. The only thing that will help with smell is upkeep. You can buy one of these and scoop everyday, nice and simple, and then change the bag in it once a week.

1. he needs to clean that box 1 to 2 times daily. Cats won't use dirty boxes. Having a second box may help but must be cleaned daily. Or get an automatic litter box cleaner
   
   
2. Half water half vinger solution in a spray bottle will remove smells from fabric and carpet. Spray the house down. It will smell like vinegar until it dries. Then no smell.
   
   
3. Get a cheap couch or futon and a sofa cover if they pee on the cover you can put it in the washing machine with any laundry detergent and a half a cup of vinegar.
   
   
4. Spay and neutering cats can reduce kitty smell because makes have a habit of marking their territory.
   
   
5. Kitty might have a urinary tract infection. Will pee everywhere until treated.
   
   
6. Cat litter deodorizer can help out tremendously.

I know this is less a tip, but, maybe you should think about a self-cleaning box. Not one of the automatic robot boxes that i assume eat a lot of energy & can be very expensive, but i love this one from from Target & this one seems to be the same concept but covered.

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Simply-Clean-Cleaning-Litter/dp/B000GF0X38

It is a dream come true. You line the little bin with a plastic bag, and every week or so you empty it and top it up with cat litter. One of the best hundred dollars I've ever spent.

you mentioned that you've tried different cat litter and boxes.

have you tried these? they have helped my friend's cat in the past.

https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Attract-Problem-Training/dp/B000PKY7YA/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504478928&sr=1-4&keywords=precious+cat+litter

https://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Litter-Attractant-Ounces/dp/B000PKUUU0/ref=sr_1_8?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504478928&sr=1-8&keywords=precious+cat+litter

Good luck! :)

http://www.amazon.com/ScoopFree-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Box/dp/B000ELUQQS

This is the one I have. I don't use their trays though, they cost too much. I got a Forever Tray off Amazon and use whatever brand of silica crystals I can get at Walmart. Overall it was a great purchase, we've had ours for almost 2 years and I love it. They say it's good for a month, but I try to check it every weekend to at least clear the poop container and stir the crystals.

Good luck. We have these litter boxes that have fake plants on top and our plant lover still chews on the plastic leaves for no reason while waiting for breakfast. I guess it's a pretty deep instinctual thing!

I took a sip of something poison, but I'll hold on tight

Not having to buy cat litter for a while would be a huge help on our ever-tightening budget!

Thanks for the contest! <3 <3 <3

Outside cats usually have a shorter lifespan. As for the box of poo thing, it's really not that bad. You can use a litter box like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/ScoopFree-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Box/dp/B000ELUQQS

The crystals are really good at concealing odor. Just need to put the box in a corner somewhere that you won't see, and if you throw in a little of this each time you replace the crystals box it'll make it even less likely that you'll be able to smell it. If all of that fails, you can always spray a little of this to make it go away in-between box changes.

But even with all that I can see how the litter box thing might be a deal breaker for some people. I had a friend who always had semi-indoor cats and that's worked out well for him. Basically the cats are always inside, then he lets them out to take care of their business from time to time. I don't really know how often he'd let them out, but he definitely didn't have a litter box and there were never any accidents. I imagine their life span would be about the same as an indoor only cat, but not really sure. Would depend on how often they'd remain outside once let out, environmental factors etc. Something to ask a vet.

So when I hit 6 cats, I stumbled upon these: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Simply-Self-Cleaning-Automatic-Clumping/dp/B000GF0X38

I now have eight cats and 5 auto litter boxes. I use lightweight litter and buy maybe one 17lb bucket a month (~$20). Clean up involves emptying the little buckets like once a week. I built a little shelving unit to create a wall of litter boxes. Works great.

NTA - get a small, nice-looking top-entry box like this one, and she probably won’t even notice it:

IRIS Top Entry Cat Litter Box with Cat Litter Scoop, White & Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRV5YNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fvfwDbE6DQA6Z

The top entry prevents all that litter tracking all over the floor and contains a lot of the smell (though it’s still important to clean regularly)

I have enough funds to adopt my cat but not enough to ge ta good litter box. So this would help me!

There's a fancy and little pricey litter, here, but I had success with this on a cat that had litter box issues. And when you're stuck cleaning stuff everywhere all the time you try everything and this worked. I do think though the earlier comments are correct you should still take your cat to the vet to be checked out to be safe and maybe find other solutions.

I use this..http://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-Eliminator-P-5727/dp/B003I5VTRW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450064798&sr=8-1&keywords=urine+destroyer and it works pretty well. Our 10-week-old puppy has an area she likes to pee in as well and this helps eliminate the enzymes.

We had the same issue and a combination of three things worked with us.

1. Enzyme Eliminator: http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K. I had success with Nature's Miracle as well.
   
   
   
2. S-Coe (the most amazing remove any odor eliminator in the entire world you can seriously bathe a skunk in this stuff!): http://www.scoe10x.com/
   
   
   
3. Scent Masker (this stuff is amazing, but get the Heavy Duty or the black label only): http://febreze.com/en-us/products/products-by-type/noticeables

Amazon sells a litter box that self cleans. It's awesome! We had our litter box in our dining room at our last place and never smelled it! You still have to empty a basket at the back, but with 2 cats, I only scoop and change the bags 2x maayyybe 3x per week and there's no stink. We plugged it into a basic aquarium type timer so that it runs twice per day to keep the motor from over working and it's been great for over 3 years!

Here's the link:
PetSafe Simply Clean Self-Cleaning Cat Litter Box, Automatic, Works with Clumping Cat Litter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GF0X38/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_JiHNzbZCPYP49

did you have a long hair bun? I have an Angora a d got her a cat litter box that allows the urine to drop onto a wee pad below. It's super easy to keep clean. They're less than $30 on Amazon and you can get wee pads at Costco for cheap.

Edit: Here's a link to the box Purina Tidy Cats BREEZE Litter System Starter Kit - (1) Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001411SK0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_EKfTgM73Uol3Y

I strongly recommend this

http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Odor-Eliminator-Urine-Cleaner/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=pd_bia_nav_t_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=17B1P1TPSC8PK1YH5B0V

My rabbits peed in a spot of carpet and rabbit pee is notoriously difficult to remove but this somehow managed to get it out weeks after the fact. Hope it helps!

Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra Cat Litter. That stuff clumps like a rock and smells nice - controls odor without being loaded with perfume. Minimal dust, too.

This is the one I was looking at that worked with clumping litter. I was considering the crystal one too but what put me off was the replacement tray. But I might consider it based on your review 😊

I had the same issue for too long. I recently got one of these "scoop free" litter boxes and put it in a cat bench thing and it's honestly been a dream. 2 cats and I can go 4-5 days without smelling anything.

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=rocco+and+roxie+stain+and+odor+eliminator&qid=1563673713&s=gateway&sprefix=rocco&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

A few years ago my cat had bladder stones and she peed on my bed a lot. This stuff got the smell out, but be careful not to breathe it in when you spray it. It's pretty harsh.

Edit: good luck. Cat urine is pretty much the worst smell.

Hugs!

Now I have that song stuck in my head. I love that song.

We've had financial problems lately and can't afford some things we need. I need this acid reducer because it would help with pain, or cat litter because we have 3 cats, or anything else from my wishlists. Or a giftcard that I can use toward food. If I order food myself, I can get the 15% Subscribe and Save discount, plus use any digital coupons.

Thanks for your contest :)

Forget about your worries and your strifes

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

It's another covered box. I know you mentioned that your other cat will pee on the cover. Hopefully they won't with this one. Works well for 1 of my cats who likes to raise her butt up when she pees. It used to spray outside the box sometimes. This covered one solved all of my problems with high sprayers. I believe it's also cheaper from Walmart if you're interested in saving a few bucks.

Make sure the strain remover you use is an enzyme cleaner. They are by far the best at removing the smell, so even your cat can't smell it anymore. That might solve the problem in itself.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sxysDbPMRSWHP

You cannot prevent pet accidental peeing, Fortunately you can clean it up almost entirely with very little damage.

First thing you will need is a small portable black light, For identifying where the spots are.

Second you will need an enzyme cleaner to remove the urine completely. http://www.amazon.com/Pet-Odor-Eliminator-Urine-Cleaner/dp/B00CKFL93K

Third you will need something to get the enzyme cleaner into the carpet and padding underneath, http://www.amazon.com/Marinade-Injector-Syringe-Cooking-Poultry/dp/B008Y9GS7S

In a darkened room a black light will cause the urine spot to glow, Fill the injector with enzyme cleaner and then inject into the carpet and pad, The enzyme will eat the urine completely and then die off.

Good luck and love your pets.

Have you looked into Top Entry litter boxes? Not sure if that would work for your space, but they work great keeping EVERYTHING in. Litter too, since the cats have to jump out, there's less tracking!

http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1376024305&sr=1-1&keywords=top+entry+litter+box

Start by getting this litter box which will change everything forever.

Keep your house very clean, but avoid using harsh chemicals. Vinegar cleans like 90% of things amazingly. The smell is distinctive and sharp, but fades very quickly especially for well vented areas.

Then get essential oil burners or reed infusers. Decide what smells you like. Very popular smells around spas include lavender, eucalyptus (careful, you may be allergic), sandalwood, sage.

If you can grow some house plants that are known for cleaning the air just be careful, as some of them are not very good for pets.

Ha! Friendly advice...you need a new litter box with taller walls. Something like a Clever Cat litter box.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002ZS20I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487757291&sr=8-1&keywords=clever+cat+litter+box

It's not cheap but it is worth the money!

What kind of litter do you use?

Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter, 40 pound bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_edvxyb609SWXJ

We use this and it's wonderful at keeping poop smells at bay.

I've used the scoop free for two years:

http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PAL00-14242-ScoopFree-Self-Cleaning-Litter/dp/B000ELUQQS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414160274&sr=8-2&keywords=automatic+litter+box

and it's fricken awesome. We got a plastic insert rather than buying the replacement cartridges. You don't really have to do anything for a month (just stir it once or twice) then you take everything out, dump it in a garbage bag, hose the insert off with the hose, and refill with litter and you're good to go.

It has yet to jam or break (unlike the stupid litter maids...I went through two of them and they were breaking every couple of weeks. Their bins also filled up like every 3 or 4 days).

We have this one and have it on a timer so that it only runs for 2 hours a day to save the motor. We love that it just uses grocery bags. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Simply-Self-Cleaning-Automatic-Clumping/dp/B000GF0X38/ref=sr_1_10?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1518840646&sr=1-10&keywords=petsafe+litter

If they and any other pets you have definitely wouldn't eat them (some pets are weirdos and they can cause intestinal blockage), we've actually had mostly decent success with the breeze system and its pellets, which we've also used in a litter box that uses a drawer to collect urine, which you then pour into the toilet, rinse, and put back. I wouldn't use them in a regular box, though, since they aren't absorbent and are designed for urine to pass through to an alternate collection method. The downside is the poop doesn't get buried, so it's more noticeable when they go, which could be a plus if you need motivation to clean the litter box more regularly, I guess. Another option might be to get a cabinet to go around the litter box to reduce the amount that leaves the immediate area of the litter box.

https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=UZKBMTDUW8W1&keywords=cat+urine+enzyme+cleaner&qid=1550497354&s=gateway&sprefix=cat+urin%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

This is the best spray I have ever used. I have two cats. You can purchase a larger amount. It should take care of the cat urine smell even if it is dry.

Yeah it seems like your cat knows where to use the bathroom, but thinks both boxes are full. If he pees in the closed box, that would make sense because the smell would build up faster than an open box. In either case, there might be litter that's better at hiding the pee smell for him.

My situation was different, my cat didn't know it was a litter box because it didn't smell like a litter box. It's this one that uses pellets. I had to mix some scented litter in there before she started using it. I highly recommend the box, it hides pee smell very well because the pee sifts to the bottom and soaks into a scented piece of cloth that you change out every week.

Me too! And that's a big reason why I just got one of these. I've used them before. We only got rid of ours when my middle daughter moved in because I'm sorry but there's no way a 24 lb cat can fit into those. BUT they work really well and make cleaning the litter box way easier.

I have heard good things about Nature's Miracle, but also heard that they are not what they used to be. This was recommended to me as a replacement, and it's worked well in my home:

http://www.amazon.com/Professional-Strength-Stain-Odor-Eliminator/dp/B00CKFL93K

You should use an enzyme-based cleaner to take care of the smell, especially if it’s in carpet (some info as to why).

This one works pretty well.

>Water pressure in the shower is on minimal and I'll have to fix that now.

In my home, it's the dishwasher, microwave and toaster oven breaking one after the other. The toaster oven was the best, with a spring popping in the door so that when you close the door, it falls and slams open on the counter. I'm programmed by habit to close the door when it's left open, so I'm banging the door on the kitchen counter several times a day.

On the plus side, I finally bought a microwave that lets me turn off that infernal beeping. Oh, and I'm toilet training my cats, which is like doing baby diapers again, but scooping poop out of the toilet training tray with a gloved hand.

this cat litter from Amazon. I have to order the 40lb tidy cats when the Dr. Elsey's is out but the Elsey's is much better... There's barely any dust and doesn't smell like anything, clumps better, overall better

I'm a bit confused why you think I'm suggesting a litter box every few feet but OK, I get litter boxes and babies don't go together. I would suggest adding a second litter box next to the first one if you have room. Just to see if it helps.

Try this enzyme cleaner:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002XJ11E/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Dr elseys does have an additive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000PKUUU0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1457157309&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=dr+elseys&dpPl=1&dpID=41jPhnsvrOL&ref=plSrch

Cats are like people. There's always the RISK you won't get along. But if you treat them with respect they will generally eventually warm up to you. It's all about trust. It may take a while but one day you'll wake up and they'll be purring on your chest and you'll be like "what the fuck changed".

If you want to try cat ownership without the risk of getting stuck with a bad roommate, try fostering one. If you guys turn out to be compatible, adopt the little bugger!

Edit: Additionally, litter boxes are probably the biggest downside of cat ownership, but https://www.amazon.com/Omega-Paw-Self-Cleaning-Litter-Pewter/dp/B005E2S77C this litter box I've found is an engineering marvel that has made dealing with stinky kitty poopies super easy.

I bought this one for that very reason. I have come to the point in my life where I have to do weeks of research on a big purchase just to make sure it doesn't have some insane level of DRM like this. I have a coworker that has a cat box that will only accept a brand new cartridge of catter litter crystals, you can't trick it either. Mine, I can use any clumping litter and a shopping bag in the receptacle.

You don't flush your toilet twice a week do you? Your cats, even if you have a separate box for each, have to wallow through whatever they put in there until you clean it.

As a result, as they are digging around in there doing/burying their business, they track extra fecal and urine traces around your house and on everything they jump on.

If cleaning them is "a chore" like most people think, get one of these coupled with one of these. Literally takes me less than 30 seconds to clean my litter box(es).

Bunnicula - what awesome books those were, I use to read them to my son when he was little.

I think you should get yourself this because cleaning boxes out is gross and why can't cats just use the toilet, gawd!

I would love this because I really need to know what everyone is talking about all the time.

I was determined this weekend to find a better litter box solution, and I have the satisfaction of having done so. It's magical. I recommended it yesterday but I feel so strongly about it I'm doing it again. This is the litter box in question.

They should pay me to advertise, because I am passionate about this product.

I think I get a half day tomorrow as compensation for staying late last week. Fuck yeah.

Are you using indoor cat food? If so, cut the shit and get them regular food.

We use this fancy ass box. The dogs can't get treats out of it, and the cats like it. I should have an extra one here if you want to try it out.

Ours started digging out all of the litter onto the floor and using it there. I was so pissed! After 3 weeks of dealing with it and scrubbing the floor with natures miracle every couple of days, we bought one of these. It has definitely helped quite a bit with their bathroom behavior.

Try covered cat litter boxes. Bunnies can use cat pans, and covered litter boxes are basically a cat pan with a cover. Take a look at this section of the litter box wiki article we wrote up.

edit:// just realized you said you wanted a lowered entrance. haha. you can always do some DIY and cut out part of a box to make your own entryway. :) it's only plastic.

edit 2:// looked on amazon real quickly, what about this? and bunnies like to hop, so you shouldn't really need to worry about non-lowered edges until your bun is old. :)

Welp, L's vomit yesterday is like some 24 hours off, 24 hours on sort of thing. First one today hit the hardwood floor and then the second was a trail over one of the rugs. I've cleaned it, used enzymatic cleaner and steamed it, but need to let it fully dry to see if I got it all. What's everyone's favorite enzyme cleaner? I'm using this one but maybe someone uses something better.


Also, while running to get more paper towel, which was entirely my fault, I jammed two toes and most likely broke the pinky toe because it's twice as fat and covered in bruising. Basically, my weekend can only improve.

You need an enzyme cleaner, like this one then sprinkle some of this on there then sweep up in a couple days. You can get this stuff at walmart or a pet store.

My wife forgot a few pounds of ground beef in her car over the weekend in 90+ degree heat, so who knows how hot it got in the car. These products got most if not all of the smell out. Replacing the cabin air filter took care of the rest.

I have not used that product, but I have used Cat Attract litter and it worked well. When we first took in our younger cat, she was a stray kitten with a bladder infection and was peeing everywhere. We used this litter to train her to the box and it was very helpful.

Nature's Miracle was mediocre.

Rocco and Roxies has worked much better for us.

I have heard nothing but amazing reviews about this litter box.

Also, have you ever tried litter deodorizers? I have six cats, and six litter boxes, but you can't smell anything. I clean them constantly and use the scented powders. (The Arm & Hammer Advanced is the best in my opinion.)

Not a type of litter, but this litterbox has been great for reducing tracking in my apartment:
http://www.amazon.com/Clevercat-77000-Top-Entry-Litterbox/dp/B0002ZS20I

Thank you for giving your bunny the best home possible :) Domestic bunbuns really do best indoors. You can use wood pellets instead of shavings (super cheap at the hardware store - ask for those with low ash content and just avoid cedar pellets). Alternatively, you can use cat litter brands made of recycled paper (a little more expensive, but still way more affordable than the bedding marketed for rabbits).


Edit: cat litter

This has been the best litter for me in my one bedroom apartment. We tried regular litter but it always tracked everywhere. I am not sure why this is never more recommended, its been perfect since day 1.

Not sure of your budget, but I love this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Good-Pet-Stuff-Hidden-Litter/dp/B000MPR2GI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1501903347&sr=1-1&keywords=plant+litter+box

Check the measurements vs your current though. If she's a really big girl, it might be too small.

Maybe try this?

Dr. Elsey's Cat Attract Problem Cat Training Litter, 40 pound bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PKY7YA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VVIgDbKX1Z9GP

Precious Cat Ultra Litter Attractant, 20 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PKUUU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yWIgDb997QP35

I believe they come with instructions on how to solve litter box issues.

I'd also put a litter box in the bedroom.

Here's a suggestion. Pretty much any enzymatic cleaner from a pet place should work though. A lot of regular cleaners contain ammonia, which only attracts them more. The enzymes "eat" the ammonia molecules so they aren't there anymore.

Exactly right on both points. It seems like overkill, but 1 box/cat is totally worth it to avoid issues.

Get a couple of these. Takes 10 seconds to clean out a day's worth.

I didn't pay $40 for mine, but these are the shit.

You should take the cat to the vet to rule out the possibility of a UTI. My cat did the same thing (due to stress) and we were also told to buy this to attract the cat to the litter box. I would also make sure to clean the litter box every day or even get a second one to put in another room.

Yesterday's News is a good option for a pellet kind of litter. It's made from recycled newspaper.
https://smile.amazon.com/Purina-Yesterdays-News-Non-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0002TIJB6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1497016351&sr=8-2&keywords=yesterdays+news

Another option is litter from walnut shells.
https://smile.amazon.com/BLUE-Naturally-Fresh-Multi-Cat-Quick-Clumping/dp/B00BPA12MO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497016410&sr=8-1&keywords=walnut+cat+litter

I've recently started using Pretty Litter.
https://prettylittercats.com/

I use this and this for my cat and it helps keep the litter pretty contained. I even took the door off the litter box because my cat didn't like it and the litter still isn't bad.

One of the things we invested in was [Buddha boxes](Petmate Booda Dome Cleanstep Cat Box, Brushed Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DH8LE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vLWhzbS77RSYV). It's a litter box shaped like a dome with an opening only big enough for a cat. It has a filter on top to helo with smell! Litter boxes are in the bathrooms with flushable litter. Just scoop once a day and flush it!

As for hair and throwing up, it sounds like stress. You're stressed out, baby is stressed out, cat is stressed out! Our cats get this way whenever they see moving boxes :( We switched to Authority brand cat food, specifically the brand for stomach issues/hair balls. That and lots if brushy posts/scratchers! I'd also make sure there is a space/room where the cats go that little feet can't! That way they have a calm space where they can relax.

Stressed/mean cats are no fun, so no wonder you don't like them right now! They may not like you for bringing a little typhoon into their house :P If the problems persist, you may want to think about rehoming them :( It sucks, but it might be best for all involved.

I got an Omega Paws litter box for my cat. I had my doubts that it would work, but cleaning the litter is now actually my favorite chore and I wish I could do it more than once a day (but she doesn't use it enough).

Cleaning up squished garbage bags, though, can't help you with that. That is yuck.

This is the one I'm referring to to avoid.. Good luck in your search!

Okay I assume this is fine?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQ0BQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also what should I do until it arrives on Friday? Any suggestions on how to allow my kitten to adjust easily?

I had this issue as well when I first got it. I had to change litters. Now I use Dr. Elsey's Premium Clumping Litter, and I've also had success with Cat's Pride.

Frankly, I'd love a couple bags of Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter ;)

You need an enzymatic cleaner or one that will break down the molecular structure of the mildew.

Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/Rocco-Roxie-Supply-Co-Professional/dp/B00CKFL93K/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1536852308&sr=8-21&keywords=carpet+cleaner+spray

Pour like half the bottle onto the area where the smell is occuring. Let it sit for 20 minutes then get up all the moisture via shop vac or other carpet cleaner. Get it as dry as possible. the smell should fade away within a day.

Here's a molecular one - https://www.amazon.com/Ozium-Original-Spray-Mist-Sprays/dp/B003VSECIY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536852426&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ozium&psc=1&smid=A3NI681A613SJA

Warning, it's stupid powerful. Like, open your windows and leave the room for a bit.