(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best cat supplies

Your questions aren't silly! It's great that you're thinking about how you can make you both comfortable before you dive into a new situation. Always set yourself up for success! :)

> do I buy a litter box/food/scratch-post before I plan to bring a cat home?

That's generally a good idea, yes. Means less stress for both of you as you're scrambling to get everything ready for him. You might ask the shelter what food the cat has been eating, as cats can get an upset tummy when switching brands/types. Not a big deal, but he will have poops that are a bit stinkier/liquidier than normal poops. That should alleviate within the week. You can lessen the tummy troubles by doing a more gradual change, mixing the food he is currently on with the food he will be on more and more, until he is eating what you want him on. But you can honestly just do the change, too, and just deal with the sadpoops for a little while.

I suggest a couple of different scratching posts, if you have the space! Cats like having options, like a horizontal post and a vertical one. Cats also like being high up, so if you can swing a tall post with platforms, he will probably like that.

Get two litter boxes! A lot of people don't realize it, but the rule of thumb for number of litters you should have is NumberOfCats + 1. So, 1 cat + 1 = 2 boxes. Clean them often. Cats are very clean creatures (especially compared to dogs) and are MUCH more likely to have accidents when they feel they do not have a better option than peeing in your bed. That's not their fault. You wouldn't want to step on your own pee/poop either! If you have problems with litter getting kicked out of the box, a litter mat can be helpful.

> Do I need to buy a carrier for the cat?

Yep. You'll eventually need to take him to a vet in all likelihood, and a carrier will make that so much easier, as most cats despise the car. I recommend a hard carrier. The softer ones seem nicer in general, but the hard carriers are easier to clean out, and you never know how a cat will be in the car until... well. They're in it. One of our cats poops and pees every. single. time. So he always gets the hard carrier.

> Should I contact a vet before I get the cat?

The shelter might require you to have a vet already, so I'd probably at least pick one out from google search. They might require you to go get a checkup, but probably not. That's more of a rescue thing, I think. Most shelters have their own in-house vet, so it's not really necessary. Don't be afraid to contact the shelter if he seems to be coughing and wheezing. Upper respiratory infections are very common in shelter environments due to the crowded nature of them, but they are also very treatable, and the shelter will be able to give you medication for him.

> How do I train a cat?

Someone mentioned Jackson Galaxy, who I generally agree is pretty good for training if you have some problems. But most of the time, cats are pretty out-of-the-box ready pets. That is to say, if you have an environment that is good for cats (where you let them have some space, where you don't make a huge amount of loud noise, where they aren't prodded and poked at constantly), they generally don't need training. We've fostered tiny kittens that automatically knew how to use the litter box. We also have boy cats who were not fixed until well into adulthood and have never had problems spraying.
It's instinct to go in the box, especially once they're fixed and don't need to mark territory really.

> For those of you who own a cat/cats, any advice for this first-timer?

Give both of you time to get to know each other. Don't force it. He will come to you, given time and space, and you'll be able to cultivate a better relationship built on trust and mutual respect if he knows that you won't force him to do things that he doesn't want to do (especially at first--think about it like building a friendship with a person; you would trust your friends to do things that you would never trust a stranger to do, and it's the same for him).

Cooing and gentle words are generally pretty good for coaxing, as is letting him smell your hand/something that smells like you before you approach for pets. Think about it like introducing yourself. You wouldn't go up to someone you didn't know well and just touch them without at least saying hi.

Every cat I have ever known, male or female, fixed or not, will pee in a pile of anything if it is left long enough. They see it as 'trash,' and I think it just registers as litter. So, if you are the type to leave clothes on the floor... I would try to stop that.

Keep nails trimmed. Scratching posts are for sharpening nails, which is an instinct that they have to fulfill, and you're giving them an outlet for. Some people think it's for 'filing' the nails down, but it's not. It's for keeping them sharp enough to get prey. You'll have to trim them.

And this is just my own personal opinion, but... young--but not kitten--boy cats are best for first timers. I have one girl, and I absolutely adore her, but she is very high maintenance/prissy/touchy, whereas my three boys are all pretty chill. Each cat is different though, so obviously your mileage may vary! It's just something I've noticed in general in my time of owning and fostering cats, that boys are more laid back/forgiving than girls (and thus I think a little easier for a first timer). Young adults are also great for first timers because you have less accidents (though that's generally not a big concern anyway) and they're more able to be on their own for longer periods of time. Older adults/seniors are great too if you want a really, really chill, more stand-offish cat, or if you want a cat that you'll have for <10 years, but if you want a little more energy and time, a cat that's about 1-2 years old is a GREAT way to go.

Some toys that are great for cats include the classic laser pointer, the feather toy, catnip toys, and crinkle balls.

Cats prefer to drink away from where they eat, so place his food bowl and his water bowl apart from one another! Some cats also prefer running water to still water, so if you notice your cat likes drinking out of the faucet (or if you just want to spoil your cat like I spoil mine...) you can get a water fountain for him!

Finally, if it's not working out for some reason, like your personalities just don't mesh well... take him back. I know it sounds hard, but it's best for him if he is in an environment where he is understood and his needs are met. There's no sense in forcing both of you to be miserable. Some shelters let you do a foster-to-adopt sort of thing, where you sort of try each other out for a bit. I like this option, because you hope for the best, but it feels a little bit easier to tap out if you need to. Either way, there's no shame in tapping out. Sometimes things just don't work the way you thought they would.

Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to be as thorough as I could. My parents recently got their first cat, and it's been... an ordeal for them, getting used to it.
It's great that you have some experience with cats though, so I think you'll be fine! Seriously, cats are sort of the next level up from a goldfish as far as easiness. Should be fine.

I hope you and your new furbaby are super, super happy together! :)

I'm going to be all over the place a bit here, with little things I've learned here and there.


Canned/wet food. No kibble/dry food. None. Ever. Kibble is horrible and causes health problems in cats - chronic dehydration that can lead to kidney failure (as it did in my own cat) and many urinary tract issues, especially in males. And kibble has no benefits - it does not "clean" teeth (that is a myth) and it can harbor bacteria and toxins. If I could give every cat owner advice, it would be to never, ever feed kibble. I regret feeding my cat a lifetime of kibble so much.


Go for grain-free canned foods if you can, with water/meat as the first ingredient, and avoid fish flavors as a diet high in fish is harmful to cats (weird, I know!) Plus they have small bodies, so mercury from fish such as tuna and salmon can build up in their bodies.


Feed two to three meals a day and don't let kitty dictate the meal schedule ;} Cats evolved as "opportunity hunters" that couldn't always eat just whenever they want to, so they are full able to go hours without eating, despite how they'll beg.


Spring for stainless steel or ceramic bowls and dishes, as plastic can get scratched up and harbor bacteria, and many cats have "allergic" reactions to it and develop cat acne. Cats seem to prefer shallower, flatter dishes to eat out of, since their whiskers might hit the sides of a deeper bowl and they dislike this.


Be sure to get regular checkups at the vet. Yearly checkups at first are great. Check teeth, claws, all the bells and whistles :} Keeping a cat's teeth healthy through regular cleanings will help prevent the misery that most cats go through later in life - extractions, abscesses, difficulty eating, and so on. My cat is 18 and still has all her teeth with zero problems - but I read about people with cats who have had to have all their teeth extracted. :{ Also, if you get the one-year-old (or even a kitten) be sure to ask the vet what your cat's "ideal weight range" should be. Many owners don't know this and thus let their cats get too thin or too fat before they realize how much the cat has lost/gained. For example, my cat's "ideal weight" is 8.5-9 lbs. If she goes down to 8 or up to 9.5, I get worried - that's the equivalent of a 140 lb human dropping or gaining around 9 lbs, so it's a large portion of body weight.


Provide a scratching post (or two!) and some "no interaction needed" toys such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-317-Tower-Tracks-Chase/dp/B00DT2WL26

http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/petmate-crazy-circle-cat-toy


I can leave them out for my cat and she plays with them when she feels like it, which is good. I don't leave out any other toys such as catnip mice, feathers, or anything that can be pulled/chewed off - if a cat CAN tear a toy to bits and ingest it, they WILL! You'll definitely want wand/"fishing" toys and teaser toys for playtime, but I don't leave them out because of the risk.


I have two litterboxes for my cat - I have often heard the advice given, "one litterbox per cat, plus one" - but it's not necessary. I put a litter mat under the litterbox to help "catch" the bits of litter that the cat kicks out or carries out on their feet. This seems like a small detail, but really saves a lot of the angries when you walk over to the litterbox and feel pieces of litter under your bare feet. Scoop the box(es) daily, and don't use a hood - this traps smells inside the box and a cat's nose is much better than ours, so going inside a hooded box is the kitty equivalent of using an enclosed public restroom. If you have the cat on a decent food, the box shouldn't smell much, if at all. My cat is on a fully raw diet and her poop doesn't stink. At all. No joke. It's awesome.


I also bought a bunch of rolls of doggie poop bags, and when I clean the litterbox, I drop the poop/pee into one of those bags and tie it off. So much easier that way.


Also, skip "scented litter" - they can be off-putting to cats since their noses are more sensitive. I've used plain old clumping clay litter - Dr. Elsey's Precious Cat Ultra - for the last 10+ years.


Skip special cat beds and stuff like that unless you're willing to potentially waste money - cats are, of course, famous for preferring boxes to expensive beds. I've literally only gotten my cat to use ONE cat bed in her entire 18 years - and now she refuses to leave it for a new, less scrofulous one.


If you get a young cat, get them used to claw trimming and grooming/brushing ASAP. Start with just gently holding/touching the paws, and over the course of a couple of days/weeks, work up to forcing the claw out of the sheath with gentle presses. Some cats will start out pretty mellow towards claw clipping and brushing, but if they don't start out okay with it... make claw clipping and grooming a VERY rewarding experience for your cat. The key to this method is START SMALL and work your way up SLOWLY.


Basically, you will literally start by brushing/combing your cat for just a few seconds. 10-20 seconds tops, maybe even do literally one stroke of the brush and then stop and immediately give them a small piece of a favorite treat/food. Make a fuss over them, tell them they're a good kitty, give them scritches, whatever pettings/attention type they prefer. And that's it for day one. Don't try the grooming again until the next day.


Do very short brushing sessions for a few days. Every time you brush them, give them a reward afterwards. Slowly work your way up to longer and longer brushing sessions. Cats are smart enough (luckily) to work out that they get a reward after the grooming if they stay calm and pretty much "endure" it.


My 18-year-old hates being brushed, but we've worked out a deal where she'll sit there and tolerate a 10-minute combing session because she knows she gets a treat after it. I've actually gotten her to the point with claw clipping that she no longer "needs" the treat reward - I can clip all her claws without fuss and all she gets afterwards is a good scritching and a hug.


The only other thing I can think of now is to "cat proof" your home. Pretend as if a two-year-old Spiderman baby is coming to your home. Hide exposed wires where you can, and tuck away drape/miniblind pull cords, etc. Hide or wrap anything dangling or exposed that you think the cat might pull, eat, chew on, or play with. Make sure nothing valuable or important is within knocking-over reach. Also check all your houseplants if you have any, as many plants are toxic to cats. Familiarize yourself with foods that are toxic to cats as well - there's nothing wrong with giving them a scrap of meat from your sandwich every once in a while, but onions and garlic (for example) are super deadly to cats.
I hope I haven't scared you with anything here! Good luck :D


OH I almost forgot the MOST IMPORTANT thing. Even if you plan on your cat being "indoors only forever", get it microchipped ASAP. Get a collar and ID. Even if you NEVER expect your cat to get out. I have two separate friends who have "indoors only" cats, so they didn't microchip or collar them - one friend didn't even spay her cat, and the other didn't get hers vaccinated. Of course, the cats got out - one friend's brother let them out accidentally through a screen, and the other got out because of an accidental window-breaking. Luckily both friends found their cats again (but the unspayed one had gotten pregnant.....) but the experience was super-traumatizing to my friends. I always advocate ALL cats being chipped, collared, and IDed, even if you never expect them to get out.
I once found a skinny tuxedo boy in my front yard and took him to the vet for a checkup and chip scan. He was microchipped, and we tracked down the owner and reunited her with her cat. He had been missing for nearly two years! It was the most amazing thing :} So, microchips for the win!

Awww he is so pretty and soft!



Picking up for cuddles:

Generally you want to avoid picking up the bunny for cuddles... they do not like it and it will damage your relationship - cuddles are much better done on the floor...All rabbits hate being picked up! They associate it with being snatched by a predator bird since they are prey animals.

Now for how to best bond with bunnies, get their trust and for them for them to come without being picked up or chased.. it's quite easy to achieve this using the right approach. The right approach is simple - get down on the FLOOR at their level! Cuddles and bonding is really best done on the ground at her level where you feel safe to him. Try to dedicate more time to him on the floor at his level - make him feel safe and like your respect what he likes and doesn't.

What works best with bunnies is always always letting them come to you instead of you going to them... silly as it is, that is what makes them feel most secure around anyone who is trying to bond with them. The best way to encourage them to do this is another silly thing - get on the floor. Literally just sprawl out and do your own thing and wait for her to come and explore you (I promise she will if you are patient). On the floor you are on his own level and you feel both safe and curious for them explore.

I would honestly suggest trying to really focus for the next few week on spending lots of time on the floor with him when you are home and let him out to explore so she can choose to come to you himself. Watch TV on the floor and lean against the sofa for comfort or even when you are on your laptop. Basically just make a real effort to spend lots of time with him on the floor for a couple weeks and see if that makes a difference. Always let him come to you on his own terms when he feels safe, don't reach for him if you feel like he is not feeling safe in that moment (kind of anticipate his feelings)... some greens will help make you feel more inviting and attractive, and over time he will learn that humans mean yummies and they are safe and he will pop by for pets from you more often. :)

Watch a couple videos below:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T3rlWno7B8g - great video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MS9HcoC19h4 - another good video

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How to best pick up WHEN NECESSARY:

He will never like it, but there are ways to make it safer and more tolerable for him when needed.

Watch the videos on how to properly pick up your bunny, they give very helpful tips and show you exactly HOW.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3d9-SjHXqdk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mDQQbxz0Fo4

Now, to add to what you see, I find it easiest to get on my knees when I want to pick up the bunny. Give a little treat (like a small bit of cilantro), pet her, then pick her up firmly supporting her butt and hind legs. Have a firm grip as they makes them feel more secure. Then get up from you knees and go where you need to go.

Also, when you want to lower her, again get on your knees first while holding her firmly, only then lower her down. This way if she "smelled freedom" and squirmed she would not be falling from a high distance. When you lower her give another tiny treat as a reward.

You want to establish a clear reward mechanism - for example show the bunny two blueberries. Give one right away and the other right after you are done. Over a couple times this will build more positive associations with being picked up when needed as a reward will be expected - this part is key

_____________

Most of the time instead of picking up you can lure him wherever needed with a little treat or pellet... for example if you need to get him into a carrier try putting a leaf of lettuce inside and he will go in and sniff it and get familiar. With time he will know it is safe and will not be scared of it and you will be able to pick him up in it. Or say you need to get him up for something else... lay a box on the floor and lure him in with a treat, then pick up in a box (his feet will still be on solid ground basically). Again with time he well get accustomed to this trick and will know it is safe. The same with his cage, try to lure him in with a small treat or pellet.

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For nail trimming I can offer a few things. :)

1. Try to see if you can do the trim on the ground at her level... Also often placing one arm over their back and holding them down just a little while you check on something makes them feel more secure and they are less likely to squirm or try to get away (hence two sets of hands may help).
   
2. Also try doing it in a less familiar place to him - like where he doesn't spend much time and doesn't feel very conformable running away - this will make it faster and easier for both of you.
   
3. To get the bunny more used to nail clippings try to establish a clear reward mechanism - for example show the bunny two blueberries. Give one right away and the other right after you are done. Over a couple times this will build more positive associations with nail trimming as a reward will expected.
   
4. TIP: in case there is any bleeding, use corn start to put over the little nail and the bleeding will stop. It's not pleasant, but it happens and it won't hurt the bunny.. just scare them.
   
   ___________________
   
   Take a look at some of the resources below - they should really help make tell you exactly what to do.
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtHczjBRaqI - great video on nail trimming (shows you what to do for black nails)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Safari-Professional-Large-Nail-Trimmer/dp/B0002ARQV4 - best nail clippers
   
   ​
   
   Great advice here also on how to handle nails: https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/adof8k/first_ever_successful_nail_clipping_by_me_and_not/ and here https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/9k00rq/were_trying_to_get_him_used_to_being_held_as_of/ and here
   
   https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/avd5hs/im_terrified_to_clips_my_bunnys_nails/

Let her into your room! She'll be much happier with more space. I highly recommend having a cat tree or two in your place. Give her a box to hide in. Or even try one of these out!

KOJIMA Shark Round House Puppy Bed with Pet Bed Mat, Small to Medium (Gray, Small) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRXQ90I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dcINybCJMQWEE

Don't prevent her from hiding, but do challenge her once in a while to be comfortable in different rooms and open spaces.

Try the toy distraction on your 2 year old cat. That's what I meant. If she's showing aggression, it's one of the best ways to distract her from the cat who's more shy.

Make sure the new cat isn't doing anything to provoke your 2 year old cat. If she is, that behavior will need to be adjusted before the 2 year old cat can be comfortable with her.

100% agree on the tuna. If you'd like to learn about cat nutrition, I highly recommend http://www.thecatsite.com for its active forums and articles on feline nutrition (they can also give great input on behaviors)

Here are two nutrition articles to get you started:

http://www.thecatsite.com/a/how-to-choose-the-right-food-for-your-cat

http://www.thecatsite.com/a/grain-free-cat-food-what-does-it-mean

You'll find that grain free high protein wet/raw foods are best for your babies as unlike people and even dogs, cats are obligate carnivores. (Here is some of that science: https://www.waltham.com/document/nutrition/cat/dog/differences-between-cat-and-dog/284/ )
My recommendation is making a small trip to an independent pet food store (not petco, petsmart, or even pet supplies plus) Take a look on yelp for good ones in your area. (Just search for pet food stores) If there are none, try Chewy.com. They sell all sorts of pet foods (you can filter by grain free) The forums on thecatsite are very good in terms of discussion of different commercial and home-made food options. (As you might be able to tell, I've done a lot of my own research!)

But yes. You are correct. Plain tuna does not contain the amount of Taurine (that's just one or the major ones) cats need to thrive. Fish generally is something you should stray from due to high mercury content and addictiveness. (Dry food is also very addictive and contributes most to obesity, digestive issues, UTIs, urinary crystals, and more)

And good! Yes, be creative in your ways to distract her! If she's not enjoying her favorite toy, try a new one. (Cats love Da'Bird and similar long (~3 ft) fishing pole type toys. ) Check out these links.


GoCat Da Bird Rod and Feather Cat Toys, Assorted Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wzINybW7DMFV9

Cats really jump for these types of long fishing pole toys that use feathers or other fur like parts. I do recommend always having a handy supply of strong duct tape to fix minor issues and strengthen the parts of well-used toys. (I had to tightly reinforce the end of the rod that connects to the string so the end piece holding the string wouldn't come off)


Petmate Jackson Galaxy Cat Crawl Solid Tunnel, Green/Orange https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O3GWKHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UDINyb34HXAEW

Great space for stalking and hiding during play


Nature In Hand Cat Play House with Catnip and Scratcher (Cat Scratching House) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJAHOC2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DFINybC4C5TWA

Triple function hide, stealth play, and cardboard scratcher. I have one that my cat loves! You can sometimes find seasonal looking ones on clearance at local pet stores (I have a gingerbread xmas themed one that I got on clearance for half the price on amazon) Cardboard scratchers, to me, are a must. Whether it's something like this or just by itself.



Nano Robotic Cat Toy (White/Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RWU17KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kyINyb5FX7DB2

This one is great if you have hard wood or tile floors. Otherwise, pass.


The idea here is to give them more enrichment, hide space, and ways to play.

That said, having more vertical space is also a really good idea.

You know how cat trees (especially the 6 ft ones) are like 200 dollars at pet stores?
Check this out:

Go Pet Club Cat Tree, 50W x 26L x 72H, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WGGWQA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_awINybGSAA2EB


BestPet CT-9073 Cat Tree Scratcher Play House Condo Furniture Toy, 73-Inch, Beige https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NOL7OQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-wINybKYYYCDX

You can find more on amazon. Groupon or eBay are also good sources. Your cats will be more comfortable if they can observe their territory from a high place rather than hiding behind a toilet. I really do think it would help give them more confidence. You could even install cat shelves on your walls if you want to. But a cat tree(or two!) goes a long way!

Give them their own favorite places to occupy so that they are better able to share their space.

Congratulations on a new cat! This is going to be long, but trust me, it'll be worth it.

Cats are simple and relatively cheap to take care of. They really just need six basic things to be happy on a daily basis.

1. Quality food. Firstly, remember that cats are not omnivores like dogs. They are obligate carnivores which means they can't survive if they don't eat meat. Do not try to put them on vegan diets, and try to avoid feeding them too much grain. Don't be too quick to grab the cheapest food you can find because cheap pet food have low quality ingredients and lots of filler. Experts say that feeding cheap food to pets is the human equivalent of eating McDonald's every meal of the day. When it comes to feeding them human food, google "what human food can cats eat" and you'll get plenty of information. Also note that almost all cats are lactose intolerant. Giving them bowl-fulls of milk or cream can get very detrimental. Of course, no chocolate, ever!
   
2. Clean water. Surprisingly large amount of people don't know that pets require clean water too. Whatever water is fit for humans is what you should be giving your cat.
   
3. Scratcher or a cat tree. Ideally, you'd provide a multi-tiered cat tree with beds and scratching posts included so that it can be a one stop relief station for your cat. That's where they can destress by scratching, stimulate by play and exercise, and relax by sleeping. This is a really good example of an all-in-one tree. But if you want to opt for a simple scratcher, it would suffice as long as you provide alternatives for their other needs.
   
4. Regularly cleaned litter box. Get a low dust litter to reduce the risk of allergies for both you and your cat. I prefer natural wood or walnut based litter because it smell less of chemicals and are environmentally friendly, but that's up to you. There are so many kinds of litter out there, but I recommend the clumping type. As for the size, the litter box should be big enough for your cat to comfortably turn around in.
   
5. 10 minutes of interactive play time with you. Most cats just need 10 minutes of active playtime and they're good to go. You'll know when they had enough play because they'll let you know. The best toys are wand toys that mimic birds or mice. Avoid giving cats strings, ribbons, or yarn because even though cats LOVE to play with those, those are easily snapped apart by teeth and cats tend to swallow them. Opt for something like the cat dancer toy instead if your cat shows a strong preference towards ribbony toys. Watch some videos about how to pet or play with cats because they are very different from dogs! (Many people don’t realise this.) You’ll start to figure to out what works best as you get to know your new feline family member better.
   
6. Regular grooming. This includes trimming their nails, brushing their fur, brushing their teeth, and the occasional trip to a professional groomer. Nails need to be trimmed for both the human's and the cat's safety. Just make sure you learn how to trim them by watching YouTube videos. I recommend nail scissors over other types. Shorthair cats can go with brushing once a week, but longhair cats have to brushed at the minimum once every 2 to 3 days to avoid matting and vomiting up furballs from ingesting too much loose fur while grooming themselves. Matting is when the fur gets tangled up so bad that it becomes a hard ball of fur that have to be removed by cutting or shaving. It can get painful for the cat so it's best practice to brush them as often as possible. Recommended brushes are slicker brushes and furminator brushes when trying to take out matts. As for their oral health, majority of pet owners aren't aware that cats (and dogs) actually do need to get their teeth brushed every single day even if you get dental cleanings (which are done under full anaesthesia) at the vet annually. Brushing can extend the amount of time between each full dental cleaning and also, reduce the risk of them losing their teeth as they get older. Works just like humans. You can use pet toothpaste and baby toothbrushes or specially made pet toothbrushes to do this. You can find everything you need at your local pet supply store.
   
   And of course, collar tags and yearly vet visits are always recommended for long term benefits.
   
   As for safety, most cat experts say cats do best as strictly indoor pets but a lot of owners prefer to let them come and go as they please. I’m a firm believer in keeping mine indoors so I keep windows and doors closed at all times. If they want to go outside, I'll accompany them with a cat harness.
   
   Phew, hope you made it all the way to the end. Good luck with your new pet!

I just buy stuff at the pet store, but I can try and find a few recommendations. You'll want to avoid things with bells or small parts, at least while she's tiny. PetSmart usually has some pretty good stuff, or you can even find a good selection on Amazon. If you're gone a lot, it also might be a good idea to invest in something you can turn on and leave running while you're gone, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP7F8YC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2GCMBb2JZP9JV.

Ironically, my cat's favorite toy is a piece of cut up fleece on a stick that I got from the pet store.

Here are a few homemade things that look fun:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/496293492/cat-toy-kitten-toy-kitten-puzzle-cat

https://www.etsy.com/listing/573944129/catnip-toy-medium-kicker-cat-toy-cat

And here are some more things from Amazon that I would recommend:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT2WL26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bLCMBbEDZ585B

And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QPLUQXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dOCMBbRA7B6MM

Just make sure she's careful with the string on this one. As long as she doesn't break it off and swallow it, it should be fine.

Some sort of a laser pointer is always a great toy for kitties, just make sure not to shine it in her eyes.

Finally, make sure to get her a cat tree if you have room for one. Cats like to climb. Something like this would be great:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0794T79KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ERCMBbM18RTGA

Scratching posts are also important, so here's what I would recommend for a scratching post, if you don't want to get the cat tree:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BY385RX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fTCMBbKA5B15Q

Once you spay her, if she isn't already, feed her adult food so she doesn't gain too much weight. A good kitten food to start her on before the spay is Good Natured, at PetSmart. If she's spayed and you want to start her on adult food, I use this, and my cat loves it, and she's super healthy:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDQCL13/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0VCMBbHDBF7XG

If you have any other questions, please feel free to message me. I have had my cat for two years, and raised her since she was three months old, so I can answer a lot of kitten questions.

One more thing, get her a bed. She may not always use it, but she will appreciate it.

Luckily I just typed this out for someone in another thread! I have a strategy that has worked 3 times before. I had 2 cats already, acclimated a 3rd permanent and have since acclimated 2 fosters (one was here for 9 months, the other 5):

1. Choose a bedroom that will be the 3 year old's (preferably the one you sleep in). This bedroom will be closed at all times, the 3 year old will be restricted to this bedroom at all times and the other cat is not allowed in. This is now the 3 year old's territory. As she spreads her scent around she will grow more confident (which is a necessity if you want her to get along with another cat). This room should obviously have its own litter box and food/water bowls.
   
   
2. Put the 2 cats on the same feeding schedule. Do not change either diet at this time, continue feeding them the same food(s) they're used to. Feed both cats on either side of the door as much as you can. Food is a positive interaction, this is to start building positive associations with each other now that they each have a space of their own.
   
   
3. After at least one week has passed (please don't bother trying to rush the cats, just let time do its thing) put up a pet gate. I have this one that's $10 at Walmart. Yes, the cats can jump over it but they typically won't because they both know the other side is another cat's space. And if they do jump over you should be immediately putting them back on their own side. The gate should be up 24/7, when you are home. If you leave for any reason take the gate down and close the door. Continue feeding them next to the doorway, the gate now allows them to see each other when they eat instead of just smelling. If you have treats you can also hand them out by the gate for another positive interaction.
   
   
4. After another week has gone by you can test the waters by taking down the gate. Only under constant supervision, of course. One of the cats will probably start exploring the other space while the other watches. If there is any negative behavior be sure not to punish the cats. They will associate any negative behavior from you with the other cat. Positive talking and petting only. If things go well, great! You should still separate them into the appropriate rooms when you're not there until another week goes by without issue. Continue feeding them in the same place, remember no changes during this process. You want the 3 year old to still have her complete "safety room" whenever she wants. At night separate the cats as well into the appropriate rooms (3 year old = bedroom, other cat = rest of the apartment). If there were any negative behaviors beyond a little hissing, put the gate back up and just continue #3. Some cats take longer, some shorter. Doing this 3 times I know exactly how long it takes for my cats to warm-up to other cats, 2 of them just a week but the 3rd is very defensive and needs the full 3 weeks before she's on "speaking terms" with a new cat.
   
   Cats are very particular about their space and other cats entrenching on it. Cats going into new environments also need to build up their confidence by having a space of their own. Both cats will be very defensive at first because of this which is why such slow introductions are necessary.
   
   My 3rd permanent cat was adopted from a shelter at 2 years old, she spent her entire life there from when she was just 6 weeks. She is still fearful and skittish but getting better every day. Under the bed was her safety zone for the entire first 2 weeks. I just gave her the time she needed and all the affection I could. She eventually outgrew the "safety room" and now her favorite place is in the living room. The best tips I can probably give you for a skittish cat is to make sure they have access to everything in a comfortable space for them. Right now, it's the bedroom for your 3 year old. After this process is over she may pick a different place like what my cat did. It's a great idea to make sure she has a litter box and food/water nearby. My cat also has her own bed in the corner, she's the only one that likes beds so I think it has to do with feeling protected (it has sides like this one, I'm upgrading it so it has a roof too like this one.
   
   I hope this helps, if you have any questions feel free to ask!

Oh! Excellent!!! You'll be so happy with your kitty. Here are some of my cats' favorite things:

(1) A view out an open window, facing a tree or some kind of natural shrubbery where he can chirp at squirrels or birds (if you have access to such a thing). Even if there's no "wildlife" in the area, cats like to look outside at passersby too.

(2) High places, like cat trees, or window ledge lookouts: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-21651-43327-cat.jpg

(3) Multiple sources of water, and preferably a running fountain. Amazon has one for $20 I think. Cats don't have much of a natural thirst drive but (males especially) are prone to urinary crystals. One of the best preventatives is drinking plenty of water, which cats are more likely to do if you give them a running source of it. You'll also find that some cats like to drink out of your own water cups lying around. It may not seem important that they get that much water, but my cat has been hospitalized twice for urinary crystals and that's way more expensive than a fountain.

(4) Scratchy posts and such. Keep them off your furniture!

(5) A litter box, preferably a covered one, in a private area. A rug underneath it will help with your own sanity because they'll kick the litter everywhere. I've turned the closet under the stairs (the Harry Potter closet) into a cat bathroom for my babies with a motion sensor light to give them privacy. I currently use this litter: http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370152220&sr=1-1&keywords=cat+litter I used to use World's Best but it was like they were crapping in crushed diamonds, it was the most expensive thing I was getting for them.

(6) A furry bed or basket with blankets. Cats love that velvety furry texture. Mine seem to love baskets, but really anything with high walls that encloses them. If you are low on $$ then even a cardboard box with some squishies to line it are excellent.

(7) Toys that act like actual prey. My cats love Da Bird and they love this crittery thing even more: http://www.amazon.com/Da-Bird-Catcher-maker-Feather/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1370151820&sr=1-3&keywords=da+bird, and I find it's more resilient than Da Bird (they yank on it). Toy mice and crinkle balls are also a favorite. Laser pointers, catnip-stuffed anything are also favorites. I've never known cats to really like balls or larger toys much. If it looks or acts like something they'd hunt, they basically go crazy for it. Again, if you're poor, you can easily make crinkle toys out of plastic bags (just watch the kitty during playtime and put the toys away when you're not engaging), or catnip-stuffed socks.

(8) Microchip! Collar! Kitties are good at sneaking through open doors. My cat is also insured and I've saved hundreds on his vet bills, it can be a good decision.

I can't say I'm the best with food recommendations. Sometimes it just really depends on your budget and how your cat likes and responds to food you're feeding him. If he has a glossy coat, minimal shedding, and a healthy weight, it's a good food choice. Hopefully someone else can chime in with what they're feeding their kitties!

Many people think that because corgis are bossy and stubborn they need to be forceful with training - which isn't the case. Corgis are actually (generally) pretty sensitive dogs despite their bossiness, so using these old fashioned dominance methods are just hurting your relationship with your dog.

He is 4 months old - he has been ALIVE 4 months! You need to be patient and consistent with him. You are not going to be able to expect him to have a perfect recall, bite inhibition, play and bathroom habits at this age - it is like expecting a 3 year old to act like a 18 year old - they do not have the mental capacity, the focus or the skill to be more than what they are - a baby.

Get into a puppy kindergarten class at a local club that specializes in positive reinforcement. Kindergarten will help your puppy with socialization (which will help with basic manners, bite inhibition and will be CRITICAL to their success as an adult dog). YOU are going to do most of the learning in kindergarten and learn how to teach basic commands effectively, possibly get an introduction to clicker training and have the opportunity to ask questions and get answers with seasoned trainers.

>He settled down a little then got up and proceeded to pee on my arm, then tried to pee on my legs as well.

This is hardly surprising. He is a baby, he has ZERO bladder control. Puppies of that age have about 30 to 90 minutes worth of 'hold it' time (depending on the individual, how much water they have been drinking, etc) while they are awake and active. He should not have the option to go lay down with you - no one would be able to watch him. He should really be in the same room with one person's eye balls on him at all times. If you want to let him wander, your fiance needs to be following him. It is not to be mean or controlling, but you just cant trust a puppy that young not to pee because they need to - they don't really have the concept of 'outside' or 'holding it' yet.

>He DOES know how to ask to go out btw, sometimes he just doesn't and ignores you if you ask him if he wants to go out (which he knows what that means).

At 4 months old? No, he probably doesn't really know. He may sort of understand that when he does certain things he can go outside, but he is not reliable enough to communicate that/figure out how to ask under ALL situations. Our corgi was fantastic with house training at 5 months - unless he was in a room he was not used to or could not get to the back door to 'ask' because a door or other obstacle was in his way. It was not a reflection of him being 'bad' - he just had been in those situations so rarely that he did not know HOW to ask in those situations (which could be very similar to your dilemma). Your corgi should be on a consistent schedule - dont ASK him if he wants to go out, TAKE him out! Every 45-90 minutes when active (depends on his track record and what he is doing) and 15-30minutes after eating or drinking. If you notice him start to loose interest in an activity, that is your cue to get him outside (again, don't ask, just take him out). At around 5 - 6 months your pup is going to have more reliable bladder control and you can start to explore more freedoms as he proves he can handle it (teaching him to use bells or offer a cue to go out instead of taking him out systematically, slowly allowing him to have the room you are in +1 to explore while still being supervises, etc). Some people CAN get away with more freedoms earlier, but if your pup is still having accidents that is proof you are not there yet (and need to adjust accordingly)


Look into these resources for help with potty training and behavior - there simply is too much to cover in one reply:

• Kikiopup - What NOT to do to your dog when training your dog
  
  
• Dog training wiki - Jumping Up
  
  
• Dog training wiki - nipping
  
  
• Dog training wiki - house training
  
  
• /r/puppy101 (read the lessons on the sidebar)
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Wiki
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Book List
  
  
• /r/dogtraining Online Resources
  
  
• The Digital Dog Training Textbook
  
  
• Ian Dunbar - Training Bite Inhibition
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• Kikopup - Clicker Training
  
  
• Kikopup - Puppy Playlist
  
  
• Dont Shoot the Dog (book)
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)
  
  
• The Power of Positive Dog Training (book)
  
  Corgis are herders - they are very VERY mouthy until they get past teething (and can still be nippy if you are not consistent). Their bladders are tiny and untrustworthy at this age - keep them off uncleanable surfaces and make sure your eyeballs are on the puppy at all times until their bladder is more trustworthy. THOROUGHLY treat and wash the bedding with plenty of Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer (wash on sanitize setting after letting the bedding sit with the cleaner for several hours).
  
  /r/corgi frustrates me - so many people still advocate for dominance training there which has been seriously discounted in the dog training community. Yes, corgis are stubborn and are difficult to train - but you do not need to be mean or forceful or 'alpha'. Your dog is not trying to dominate you - they are a baby. They are not trying to be 'alpha' any more than an infant is trying to control the house.
  
  Be sure you are TEACHING your dog what you WANT them to do instead and you are treating the cause, not just the symptoms of behaviors. With potty training it is ALL about management and consistency - every accident is a set back and is YOUR fault for not watching him/controlling his environment better.
  
  If you cannot get to a puppy kindergarten class (which are usually around $50 for a 4-6 week class), do a TON of research on our wiki, kikopup videos, the digital dog training textbook and the books I listed above. Consider clicker training (but that will not really help they physical bladder control issue at this age) and Nothing in Life is Free to compliment your positive reinforcement training plan. Your puppy is also going to still need a ton of socialization with dogs, people and other animals.
  
  Positive reinforcement isn't about always sugar coating everything - you can still have strict rules and a well trained dog by using positive methods. The key to remember is treating the cause, not just the symptom and always looking to TEACH your dog, not control or intimidate. Corgis are fantastic dogs - they want to be with you all the time and they can be extremely obedient if you gain their trust and work with them correctly. Being heavy handed or using 'dominance' methods (like holding a dog on their back - that is terrifying to many dogs!) can seriously damage your relationship if you are not careful.
  
  Consistency and patience are the keys to success - look to capture the desired behaviors your corgi offers naturally, encourage new positive behaviors and redirect behaviors you do not want. If there is something your puppy does not KNOW (which is pretty much everything at this age) or cannot physically HELP (such as holding their bladder) you CANNOT punish them - it is not helpful, adds a lot of frustration and confusion to the relationship and does not teach them what they SHOULD be doing (because they don't know what that is or cannot physically do it.)

My favorite day of adventures and an adorable puppy.

Its your favorite day and she just looks so wonderful there. Full of fun and life and for a memory thats the best, and puppy stage because then you have the full reminder of the lifetime of joy you shared.

Pooka & piddy

Piddy is the black and white, I'm not sure how old she is, because I got her free at a yard sale. I felt so bad for her, she was all crammed into a rabbit, cage, she couldn't even stand up but she was so pretty and friendly. I stuck my fingers in the cage to pet her and she immediately rubbed against them. its hard to see in this angle but she's got this adorable black spot on her nose. She was an adult cat then, but young I think. She's got a lot more white in her black fur now, she drools when she's happy, which is often. Purrs constantly when you just look at her and smile! Loves to play fetch and still run around like she's lost her mind now and then. She also cuddles me when I sleep.

Pooka the calico was the best gift my ex husband ever gave me. She was a valentines gift, the last of a litter and the runt. She was so tiny she fit just one hand. When we first got her, she hid and barely came out, Slowly she did though. It was funny, Piddy took to her pretty fast, and started teaching her how to hunt and play. They cuddle sometimes fight others. Pooka growls and protects me when someone knocks lol. She knows the knocks of friends and family and won't growl but stands by me anyway. She loves to be brushed, and is a ninja.

Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole.

Gifties for them this or this

Toys of course, they love to chase things and the crinkle balls the noise they've destroyed the last batch i had. They also destroyed hte last toy on a string on a stick. lol It was entertainment for me and them!

Man, that's a tough one. It's going to take some hard work, but it can be done.

I also have a male and female who were altered as kittens but it's the 9 year old male who is the problem. I call him "The Piddler" and am hoping that someday Catman shows up to dispense justice. :D j/k

Seriously though, up until recently it's been enzymatic urine removing spray, and blocking access to the problem areas.

After doing some research, I've found that cats tend to present this kind of behavior when they feel very stressed or feel that their territory is being encroached.

I've had some pretty good luck with a few Feliway Diffusers that dispense a drug-free, odorless vapor that mimics a cat’s natural calming pheromones.

They take a bit to fully kick in but you do start to see positive results pretty quick. I have three of them dispersed throughout the house and they really seem to do the trick.

I've also had luck with an extra litter tray. What I've read says "you should have one extra littler tray than you have cats". So you might think about having three litter trays in various locations in the house and staying on top of making sure they stay cleaned out.

So, I guess it all boils down to this:

• Taking a good hard look at things that are potentially causing your female to feel stressed or threatened, and doing your best to remove the triggers.
  
  
• Giving your cat a little extra positive attention in order to try to reassure her that her place in the house is secure.
  
  
• Making sure the areas affected are kept super clean.
  
  
• Adding an extra litter tray.
  
  
• And, (I'm not trying to sell you a product or anything) installing a few of those Feliway things. (Man, they have really helped to drastically alter the behavior.)
  
  Good luck! Like I said, it's going to take some work on your part but you can help provide a more comforting environment for your problem kitty by just taking a few steps to help her along the path of a piddle free existence.

So precious! If he's your first, I really recommend a few things if that's ok! Amazon/ ebay links but products can be found elsewhere.

Watch My Cat From Hell - it's FULL of good ideas and knowledge, despite the cable TV format.

Harness and leash train your cat asap. Not only can you then take them for walks (which takes a couple years to do but is well worth it), being ok with a harness and leash will make him way easier to travel with and take to the vet.

Cat backpacks are easier than cat carriers; I like the solid rectangular ones best.



Check out robot toys that your cat can play with on their own, as well as bouncer toys (basically a long wire with a little cardboard thingy on each end that you can wedge somewhere for them to play with.

Couple of things mine love:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006N9I68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1



A cat tree next to a window with a bird feeder outside (you can get ones that stick onto your window) will make them very happy. Note on cat trees - I got a really good deal on ebay recently, and the same cat trees were way more expensive on Amazon - I totally recommend checking ebay for cost comparison on this. They were like 30-40% cheaper.

He looks like he's going to be a floof. I recommend these two brushes - the first is for removing extra hair every so often in the summer months, the second is a general daily brush (I just keep them in the powder room seeing as my cats insist on going to the bathroom with me anyway). This seriously reduces the amount of hair all over your home. We barely have cat hair on anything aside from their regular spots on cat furniture.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CWCRFUW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YIWUXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they do turn out to be floofy, watch out for them seeming bit light/ skinny in hot weather - they can get dehydrated, and this is a real life-shortener. Avoid cheap cat treats, which tend to be too salty (Temptations/ Dreamies etc) get the vet recommended sort.

My cats also love this fountain (we've gotten them three and this is the top pick and the easiest to use):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TY5D6C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Learn to trim his claws yourself - you'll save your furniture. I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002RJM8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm a bit limited in my stuff because I have a dog who tries to play with the cat toys, but here are some I have now:

​

https://www.chewy.com/trixie-brain-mover-interactive-cat/dp/146125

https://www.chewy.com/trixie-mad-scientist-turn-around/dp/146119

https://www.chewy.com/cat-amazing-best-cat-toy-ever/dp/132771

https://www.chewy.com/kong-glide-n-seek-cat-toy/dp/101667

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Hot-Pursuit-Concealed-Motion/dp/B06WP7F8YC/ref=sr_1_7?crid=39T23K4DMHZKL&keywords=cat+toys+interactive+best+sellers&qid=1556484455&s=gateway&sprefix=cat+toy%2Caps%2C195&sr=8-7

​

Basically, my challenge is it can't have anything the dog might eat to her detriment, and/or it has to be used only under my close supervision. For that reason, we don't use the Kong Glide and Seek anymore. The toys have feathers, which she loves, and magnets - which she should not swallow.

​

My cats have also loved Hexbugs toys, but those are dangerous around the dog. They make both cat toys and non-cat-toy versions that are still great toys. They also love feathers on a pole/string. I have basically this: https://www.amazon.com/Feather-Retractable-Assorted-Interactive-Exerciser/dp/B07F45GGPT/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=cat+fishing+pole&qid=1556484617&s=gateway&sr=8-6 , but I found that the end piece wants to come off too readily. I used duct tape for a while, but need to fix it right at some point. As it stands, it's not safe, because the string mine came with is basically fishing line, and I don't want the dog to swallow it. It's fun though when the cats play with it. Mine grabs the feather end sometimes and trots off, trailing the pole behind her, looking for a safe place to eat her prey. But I think she sees the pole as a rival, so she just ends up carrying it from one hidey hole to the next, looking very smuggly satisfied with her catch!

​

If you do not have a good cat tree (something with several perches and such, consider getting one - some have toys affixed to them, and that can become a favorite outlet for energy as well as a place to sleep.

​

Smart cats need lots of stimulation, and if you don't have one, you might consider finding him a playmate, ideally female (male cats get in competition with each other sometimes, and you end up with literal pissing - spraying - contests). A cat who can keep up with him will be the best possible toy! I have two females (sisters) and a male currently. They all play together quite a bit. This does help keep down the crazy. If I had my genius by herself, I'd have to meet ALL her stimulation needs, and that would take probably a few hours a day. The actual amount of stimulation yours needs may be different, and what excites him may be a bit different. But he will need some stuff to do, especially over the next couple years. By the time he's 4 or 5, he'll settle considerably, but some interactive, interesting toys and such will only increase both of your enjoyment.

Dogs are not our whole life, but they make our lives whole.

I'm very sorry to hear about your baby. I went through something similar a few years ago. My standard poodle, Abner, was my first pet. We adopted him from the humane society and he was awesome, though a tad neurotic.We then adopted Nellie, another standard poodle who was similar to Abner but very hyper. We all grew up together and bonded and they saw me through so much, my parents divorce, my adopted brother coming home, moving multiple times, and the death of my great grandmother. No matter what happened, they were always there. Abner got old, and by the time he was 16 we decided he had to be put down. He was just getting too old and really had an issue moving around and living like we had wanted him to live. It was one of the hardest days of my life. Exactly one week later Nellie suddenly passed away. We found her vomiting blood and immediately took her to the vet. There were xrays and blood samples taken and the vet determined that she had eaten a string and perforated her intestines. There was nothing she could do. So we had to put her down as well. Losing two of my babies in a one week span was the most horrible thing I have ever had to go through.

I now have two dogs and two cats. Millie is a one year old boxer and drives me crazy on a daily basis. But I love her all the same. Sandy is a goldendoodle and my love. She is so calm and collected and seems to know exactly what your saying at all times. I call her my noodle. Malachy is a two year old Maine Coon Cat and also drives me crazy. She constantly knocks things over on my desk and scratches at my door. But again, I love her anyway and she always is there to cuddle with me when I need it. Moxie is my big baby. He is my first ever cat and litereally the cuddliest cat I have ever met. We adopted him from the same humane society where we adopted Abner. I also now volunteer there. He sleeps on my chest every night and is a bed hog. He has huge double paws and can't retract his claws so he clicks when he walks across the floor. I adore all of them.

My cats would really love this but because it's on the higher side of the price spectrum, they would also like this. Either one would provide a nice replacement to their now almost ripped to shreds scratcher. They love to play!!

My favorite pictures are the one her as a puppy, and one of her playing in the snow. It shows her at two different periods in her life, and having both of those pictures would provide a nice balance. Thank you for the lovely contest and I wish you nothing but the best. :]

I'm guessing the vet checked her for a urinary tract infection? If not, that would be the first thing you should do.

>The fact that she only pees inside when we are present tells me this is no accident, I think she might still be testing her boundaries

Probably not. It's pretty common for a dog to be house trained in their house, and have accidents in a new place. Dogs are often not good at generalizing; they're all houses to us, but to dogs, a new house can be a completely new situation.

>trainer says to only scold her if we witness the crime

That can lead to your dog not going to the bathroom in front of you anywhere (including outside). You should avoid scolding / making a big deal if she has an accident in the house.

>Vet told me to make her smell it, say “No” and point her to the place she’s supposed to go do it

That's outdated, ineffective advice. Punishment more than a minute or two after an unwanted behavior is very ineffective / useless and just confuses / scares your dog. I don't expect vets to know everything about dog behavior (unless they're advertising themselves as behaviorists), but they should know basic stuff like this. I would be very skeptical of behavior advice from this vet.

>the correct way

1. Don't give the dog the opportunity to eliminate inside. You need to be actively watching her (tethering to you is a really good idea) or have her in an appropriately sized crate when you're not able to supervise her.
   
   
2. Give her plenty of opportunities to eliminate outside. Take her out every X minutes (it's going to depend on the dog, 30 minutes might be a good starting point) and after eating and playing so it is easy for her to succeed. As she gets more reliable, you can start to lengthen the time between taking her out.
   
   
3. Make awesome things happen when she eliminates outside. You mentioned praise, but that probably isn't enough for your dog. Really good treats ("human food"), favorite toys, or play are often way more valued by dogs than "praise". Throw your dog a "you peed outside!" party every time she goes outside. You need to have the treats / toys ready because the reward needs to happen immediately after the desired behavior (less that a second between the behavior and reward is a pretty good goal). After eliminating outside becomes a habit for her you can start toning down / eliminating the rewards if you want.
   
   
4. If / when the dog eliminates inside, try to calmly / gently interrupt her and take her outside. It's almost always your fault (weren't paying attention to her, not taking her out often enough) so figure out why it happened and fix your training plan.
   
   >she will not go in the garden if one of us isn’t with her
   
   At least for now, you're going to have to go out with her so you can reward her right after she eliminates. I would guess that after she figures out the garden is where she's supposed to pee and that awesome things happen out there, the problem will go away.
   
   >she sometimes pees on the carpet in the house, usually just a little… regularly on the same spot.
   
   You need to clean that spot really, really well with an enzymatic cleaner like https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-Eliminator-P-5727/dp/B003I5VTRW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1472729937&sr=1-1&keywords=natures+miracle to make sure that the smell is completely gone. You might also want to try to physically block off the area (for now) so she can't pee there any more.

I am providing links but all of these are available at different retailers.

My girl enjoys the Catit Senses components. You can start out small and keep adding to it.

Catit Design Senses Super Roller Circuit Toy for Cats https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A4A7UOU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hQ8vCbXXNCGPJ

The Katris modular System looks great and my cat absolutely loves hers! We have them staggered along the wall in my living room taking her up to the point where she can touch the ceiling if she wants.

https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/katris-modular-cat-tree-2845031?cm_mmc=PLA-GG-_-PTC_P_SUP_PLA-GG_FY17_SCShopping-Draw-_-55162009170-_-A&kpid=go_1581587647_55162009170_296946065888_aud-474167082703:pla-365007370291_m&scid=scplp2845031&sc_intid=2845031&utm_config=tad0iunwp&utm_campaign=PTC_P_SUP_PLA-GG_FY17_SCShopping-Draw&utm_source=google&gclid=CjwKCAiAv9riBRANEiwA9Dqv1WA5Uw81TI2m38CE98fHwNU4OL2SzoI0QovtdA6EnKwO9LoRH7u_tBoCtmIQAvD_BwE

MousR is fun for cat and pet parent alike. You can control it with your cell phone or you can set it on auto- play to keep your cat entertained. It has an all day setting where it will go into sleep mode and then turn itself back on periodically throughout the day to get your kitties attention and get them to play.

https://petronics.io/?gclid=CjwKCAiAv9riBRANEiwA9Dqv1aqVNMna2cYSjemkdko8N-syGKRxL3tIqf7S5OjF8Koycts9zrS-LhoC2LcQAvD_BwE

The ultimate way to use up all that cat energy is with the cat-wheel, and this is the best one on the market made by One Fast Cat.

https://onefastcat.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiAv9riBRANEiwA9Dqv1dA_vXcadwai98lwk3ratu2XNPGzx1mMKognvQwA-iq69poNUAe4sRoCBD0QAvD_BwE

And though it is not a toy, it is important for cats to get adequate hydration and most of them do not. A pet fountain can really encourage them to drink. My girl loves hers! This is a link to what I have but there are different price ranges and styles out there.

PetSafe Drinkwell Pagoda Ceramic Dog and Cat Water Fountain, Red, 70 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HQHFDCU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rS8vCb5C0HACG

And of course kitty has to eat. Cats naturally eat six mice a day in the wild. Doc & Phoebe’s has come up with mice feeders that satisfy the hunt, catch, kill, eat instinct that all cats have. My girl loves hers and I can honestly tell she has been more content since I have been using them. It is good to feed wet food to cats so that they get the additional moisture but I feed a combination to mine, especially since she drinks so well from her cat fountain.

Doc & Phoebe's Indoor Hunting Cat Feeder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFKDJF8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_878vCbQXB021F

I live in the US so I don't think I can guide where to buy things. However, I can only imagine you have discount type stores similar to Walmart (if you have dollar stores I wouldn't buy food from there, toys should be OK).

TIPS

• Especially being short on money, but regardless, I would put aside a set amount each month into an emergency fund just in case.
  
  
• Set boundaries from day 1. If you don't want kitty in your room, then don't allow her to do so just because she's new.
  
  
• Take your kitten to the vet shortly after receiving her. Many shelters near me offer a free vet check at selected vets, or a coupon. But even so, a wellness visit does not cost much.
  
  
• Jackson Galaxy suggests putting the litterbox in a place socially significant to the cat.
  
  What I must have before I get a cat?
  
  
• Litterbox
  
  
• Litter Scoop
  
  
• Litter - I use Precious Cat Ultra Premium Clumping Cat Litter. It's affordable (lasts me personally longer than a month), and does extremely well hiding the odor.
  
  
• Toys, buy a variety at first to see what your cat likes.
  
  
• Cat Tree (optional but if your kitty is a climber she will like it.). Amazon has affordable ones as well. You could also try Chewy.com
  
  
• Ceramic or Stainless Steel food dish and water bowl.
  
  
• Collar and tags.
  
  
• Brush.
  
  
• Food - I buy Bambi a 3.5lb bag of The Goodlife in the salmon flavor. She loves it and it's affordable at about $7 a bag. I also feed her wet food. I buy the box of Fancy Feast the poultry and beef mix or something like that this costs about $14 a box and lasts 24 days because I feed her a can a day. People will knock Fancy Feast because there's a grain-free trend going at the moment, but 1) she won't eat the more expensive fancy stuff, and 2) I don't think it's necessary, but to each their own. Like everyone has a right to raise their child however, everyone can raise their kitties however. :)
  
  
• Flea/Heartworm/Tick preventative. May be different there, but I like to be proactive. Even if you have an indoor cat, you can bring fleas inside on your clothes. Mosquitoes fly and can come inside. Tick, not sure, but I assume they could also hitch a ride on your clothes. Personally Bambi is just on a flea preventative as I have not found an affordable product that does it all. Revolution seems to be pretty popular though you have to go to the vet for this. I use Advantage II on Bambi. Can't recall the cost at the moment.
  
  
• Scratching posts/pads - You will want more than one but they last a long time.
  
  Things I should do as soon as I got him/her?
  
  They say to isolate the cat when you bring them home so as to not overwhelm them. I personally just let Bambi out and she looked around the apartment and then hid under a bed for awhile. Don't be alarmed by this as a new environment is overwhelming for a cat and you are new to them. It can take several days to several weeks before they feel comfortable.
  
  Where can I adopt a kitten?
  
  I believe kitten season is coming up (at least here anyways) so you can most likely find them in shelters, and I would recommend you adopt from a local shelters. Most shelters will post their available cats/kittens online or on their website. You can do a search and find both (pet adoption search engine, and local shelters).
  
  
• If you decide to adopt a kitten note that they require much more time and energy. You also should kitten-proof your house as they may get into things they shouldn't or chew on things they shouldn't such as wires. There are also usually more kitten appropriate toys and food to purchase.
  
  Good luck and enjoy your new furball when you get her!
  
  EDIT: Formatting
  

Crazy cat lady here, I have four in my apartment. Unless they are lying to me, everyone that comes over is always shocked I have cats because it doesn't smell like it "should". I have two air purifiers in the house these and I have this one that sits directly on top of the litter box. I've had my four cats around 10 years and also fostered probably about... 30. So I feel like I've tried it all and I finally have a good ritual and set up. I use this litter box because it's big and tall which they prefer but also easy to get inside when it's time to clean. I use this track mat because so far it's really done the best to keep the litter from traveling far from the box. And like you, I clean it 2-3 times a day. The litter that is. I use this litter which is LIGHT YEARS better than anything else I've ever used. One of my cats also has horrible allergies and this is the one litter I've found that she doesn't react to. It also doesn't dust so you don't have to constantly feel like poofs of litter are showing up around the house or on the carpet or furniture. I also vacuum every single day. I have one vacuum I use for the floor where there may be litter tracked and another I use that never touches litter. I think this is fairly important. This vacuum honestly is the best I've found for hair. Miracle worker. Unless you can afford the Dyson Animal. I also have this spray that I'll use for my carpet and fabric once a month or so and I feel like it makes a huge difference. And then lastly I also keep windows open whenever I can and I have this diffuser and put oil in it a few times a week and let it run for a bit, plus it looks cool with the lights :) Oh! and one last thing that I think is great... put one of those cardboard scratch pads near the litter box so the cat has to step over it to get anywhere else. Like off the track mat but near the box. I do this and all the cats inevitably use the scratch pad for fun when walking by it but I'm convinced it also cleans their paws from any litter left over before they start walking around the rest of the house!

Vet student and cat lover here. Undersocialized kittens, kittens separated from their mom too early, and Bengals can all make challenging pets, so I'm not surprised you're having some trouble with that combination!

It sounds like your kitten has play aggression. Basically, he's bored and under-stimulated, and his pent-up energy is being directed towards you. Here's some information about play aggression from the SF SPCA, a well-respected behavior consultant, and VCA hospitals. I hope you'll find it useful!

My cat used to be play-aggressive, and here's what's worked for me:

• Lots and lots of play. Aim for at least two sessions of 10-15 minutes per day of active play, and try to wear him out!
  
  
• Try lots of toys! Kittens will have different preferences and may get bored over time, so switch things up. I'm giving some links of toys that, in my experience, cats go crazy over. They're not affiliate links, I don't work for the companies, and you can find them in pet stores as well: Cat catcher, Cat Charmer, Da Bird, and Cat Crazies A lot of cats also go crazy for foil balls and drinking straws if you throw them around. Try to have a variety of toys- wand toys, sparkle balls, bouncy balls, big catnip toys your kitten can kick, little catnip toys he can carry around, soft toys, plastic toys- you get the idea. If your cat is an ambush hunter, he may also like if you dangle a toy at one end of a cat tunnel so he can run through and grab it.
  
  
• Try to engage in play before you see any signs of playfulness or aggression, and definitely learn to recognize those signs and act on them! I've found that while redirecting with toys is the smart thing to do, at that point, it's usually too late.
  
  
• Cat tend to have a hunt-eat-groom-sleep cycle. Try to feed twice a day at regular times, and play for a bit first. Cats like being on a schedule.
  
  
• More cat trees and build/buy cat shelves if you're able!
  
  
• Wear shoes/boots in the house if you have to. Doing this saved my ankles, and I wonder if part of the reason he attacks you more than your BF is that you react more so it's more fun for him.
  
  
• Food puzzles! Here's a site with a ton of options, including super cheap or free/recycled ones.
  
  
• Look into clicker training! Good way to keep him physically and mentally occupied.
  
  I hope this helps! I realize I've just thrown a ton of info at you, and my main suggestion is to take just a couple little ideas and start incorporating them. Maybe find one toy he loves and use it twice a day, scatter his food over his cat tree or in an ice cube tray, and try to keep yourself covered so he can't hurt you.
  
  Also, definitely take him to the vet! I agree he can probably be neutered now or soon, it's always good to take new pets to the vet, and they may have behavior advice. Best of luck!

How long has it been since you've brought this up with the vet and had your kitty checked out? You said he had crystals last year, but have you taken it back since? I'd say this needs to be step one.

>In addition to a complete physical examination, your cat should have a complete blood count, blood chemistry panel and urinalysis. Other tests, such as radiographs that use special dyes to outline the urinary tract, may be necessary as well. If an underlying condition is determined to be the cause of your cat’s house soiling, the medical problem should be treated, and her response to treatment should be closely monitored. Once any medical problems are treated, you may still need to retrain your cat to reestablish normal litter box elimination patterns.

Source


Secondly, you can pray all you want, but I'm afraid the smell is not going to magically go away on its own - this is a matter YOU are going to need to actively take into your own hands, and because cat urine smell is a real b*tch to get rid of, you are gonna need to start this process ASAP, like, now... Ready?

Get this Nature's Miracle stuff. As you may already know, you can't just use any ol' cleaner to remove cat pee because cat pee has superpower-like properties involving enzymes and the like that make it resistant to ordinary cleaning products. The aforementioned Nature's Miracle is basically a cleaner on steroids that has the properties needed to break down and eliminate stubborn cat pee. Use it and go to town cleaning every kitty-sprayable inch of your house. I tell you to start now because you may have to go through this process several times to thoroughly get rid of all of it. If you enjoy hardcore housecleaning as much as most people, this isn't going to be fun, but if you want to keep your cat, this is what it will take to get rid of the offending stank and hopefully it'll help in stopping your cat spraying by removing the spraying-cat-attracting odors.


And seriously, take Kitty back to the vet, because it may very well still be a medical issue, and if it is, you can clean all you want but it won't stop kitty from spraying and therefore all your cleaning efforts will be for naught. So pray all you'd like, but don't forget vet + cleaning to increase your chances of stopping the problem and keeping kitty. I wish you all the best.

Ok, I can't lie: they do shed if not brushed regularly. However the shedding isn't nearly as much as a dog like a retriever or a husky. Their fur is very bunny like so it doesn't really show on furniture or clothing. The people who really complain about their shedding (after readings hundreds of Ragdoll forum pages!) are the ones that have 4, 5, even 6 of them! With one or two it's not that noticeable. I bought a furminator and it's godsend! It's the best when it comes to removing loose hair, you'll be amazed at how much hair comes out.
As for your allergies: I was very allergic to cat hair to the point where my face would look swollen if I entered a room with a cat. I found a product on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S0L0M4/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00 It works great you can see people's reviews on how effective it is. In a few words it neutralizes the allergens. Another very important thing that I didn't know before getting a cat: It doesn't matter if you get a long or short hair cat because the major allergen that people react to doesn't come from their hair, it comes from their saliva. Some allergens also come from dead skin but the great majority comes from their saliva. Since every cat licks themselves several times a day, they pretty much have the allergens all over them, making it seem as if it's from the fur. So we could get a hairless cat and would still suffer from allergies. Trust me this product when applied about once a week REALLY works. As time goes by your body builds a little immunity to the allergen since you are constantly around it. I'm at a point now that I only have to apply the product once every 2-3 weeks.
Sorry for the long responses, I get very excited when talking about Raggies. They are truly loving, sweet, gentle creatures. The staff at our vet's office is always so surprised at how laid back they are, as cats can become very agitated and defensive when going to the vet.
Ok I'm really done talking about them now :) Good luck and feel free to ask anything!

Declawing is the same as surgically removing the last bone from each of your fingertips. Learn to keep the cat's nails trimmed correctly. Too short and if a cat's not used to it, they can't walk, run, or jump without wobbling until they grow back.

Not all cats like scratching posts -- mine prefers cardboard, but not the 'on-edge' cardboard cat scratchers, so my dad helped me add a wooden 'tray' to the top of the post in which I place flat squares of cardboard cut from boxes. She scratches and sleeps there, and sometimes just perches there to watch out the window. Don't get a carpet-covered scratching post or pad unless you want to teach your cat that scratching carpet is a good idea. =P

I have a Booda Dome for a litter box -- she still tracks some litter. I don't think there's a system out there that will keep cats from tracking any. Some litters are better than others. Covered litter boxes are nice for the humans, but not all cats will adapt to the flaps. Some litters are lower 'dust' than others, and this is better for cats' lungs and humans' alike. =)

Not all cats will respond to catnip or all types of toys. My cat is indifferent to laser pointers, and only likes the actual fur-covered realistic mice. She doesn't care for bell toys, but those little plastic springs drive her nuts (when she's in the mood). Her favorite toy is a wooden wobble 'bead' in which you can place catnip. Also a Da Bird Feather Cat Toy which you can make flutter to sound like a real bird. I'd suggest the non-collapsible one, as I'd suspect my cat would pull that apart. =P

Talk to your vet about what food(s) are actually good for your cat. From my research, you want to avoid bone meal products or and 'meal' products as they include ground bone which is hard on your cat's kidneys. Also avoid grains. Turkey is better than chicken; not all fish are terrible, but you have to consider mercury levels. You should consider only feeding your cat wet food, but this is more expensive, and difficult to manage with hurried schedules. Mine loves kibble and hates having to give that up, so I leave that out all the time and supplement with a big scoop of wet food at night. (These are the best quality, least expensive per-serving foods I've found.) A 6-lb. bag of kibble seems to last my cat ~3 months. At four days (servings) per can, the 12-pack of 12.5 oz. cans last about 1.5 months. You'll need two snap-on plastic can lids. My cat adores salmon as you may see. =P

Not all cats will like all types of cat beds.

Mine LOVES water (she literally demands 'cat showers') and she likes to play with the dripping tub faucet, so next I'm going to get a cat drinking fountain. Cats in general prefer 'fresh' or moving water, so mine always wants clean water in her bowl every time.

Because no one cat will like every toy or bed or litter box, you may have to buy more than one. Talk to your vet about what types to try and how to encourage a cat to like what you buy. I put catnip on my cat's things -- that seems to have worked, but not all cats respond to catnip.

I second getting a larger litter box and brushes for fur. There are a ton of brushes on the market but we have Furminator, a wire brush, and another brush with metal teeth for main brushing. If your Sib has long fur then I highly recommend additional brushes that help prevent and/or remove mats. There’s even detangling spray that works great to help loosen tight mats. I also recommend getting some kitty wipes if your Sib has long fur because my kitten had poopy butt quite often.

As for toys, I found that when he was a kitten, he loved Da Bird,the Ripple Rug, and the Cat Senses circuit track. They were easily his favorite toys. Also anything with a feather or fur were (and still are) his favorites. And be prepared to play all the time! My Siberian is over 2 years old and still demands daily play time. As he got older he really got into these Trixie treat puzzles as well as this Meowijuana catnip.

One thing that surprised me the most about my Sib kitten is how much he could get into small spaces and cause trouble. We had to invest in some baby-proofing things like a baby gate and locks for cupboards.

Edit: added links

First, congrats on deciding to adopt an adult cat! You are awesome and you're going to make this cat happy no matter what you do.

If he's healthy, well fed and safe in his territory, then he's going to be a very happy little cat. For feeding, I do one can of wet food a day, and dry food free fed while I work. Depending on his size, you may want to schedule his meals instead. Fat cats are cute, but not healthy

I am one who is against having a cat outdoors for any reason unless you live on farmland or acres of your own that are protected from outside animals. In the US, your cats life drops from 12-15 years to 2-5 years on average. A cat can be very happy indoors, regardless of if they were once an outdoor cat. Outdoor house cats are also a burden on nature and kill billions of other animals, such as birds, each year.

As for keeping my cat happy, I have a cat tower for my cat which is kind of her own little kingdom when I am gone. Armakat makes cheap and amazing towers.

I have the house littered with toys, most of them she ignores since there are so many. And she ends up just wanting to play with bottle caps over expensive toys anyway. She does love to chase and bat around her stuffed mice though.

I spend about 30 mins to an hour a day just playing with her, using a feather chaser like this one which is probably the biggest contribution to her daily happiness and well being. The interactivity gives her an outlet to expend energy, and it creates a positive bond. It gives her something to hunt as well. Don't just have your cat chase the toy around, let them stalk it as you slowly move it from them. Chasing and killing is only one part of play, the actual stalking is a big part of it as well.

Cats lives are pretty much, sleep -> hunt -> kill -> eat -> groom -> repeat. With a bunch of pooping in between. If you are fulfilling all of those then your cat is probably very satisfied and will hopefully refrain from attempts at smothering you with their paws while you sleep. They'll still probably stick their butthole in your face every chance they get though.

It's like a hamster wheel for cats, bengals tend to love them. And you don't have to get a second bengal, a second cat of any breed would probably be good. You also don't have to get a second cat lol.

Other than someone taking the cat, it's not more of a risk than other cats. I do think other cats being outdoor cats are too much of a risk for them as well. That said there are alternatives for letting a cat enjoy the outdoors without giving them free roam such as harness training them, having a catio for them, or a cat proof fenced in house (which is by far the most expensive and not doable without a ton of property surrounding the house but it is possible lol)

Here are some toy suggestions to help with your kittens energy:

this wand toy which I've seen make even the laziest cat chase after I don't know what it is about this toy specifically maybe it's the leather tassels or the fur thing but I've never not seen it drive a cat crazy.

This cat ball track things

This cat dancer toy with the wall attachment Trust me that the wall attachment is super important.

Really thick pony tail elastics Be sure to watch her and make sure she doesn't try eating one.

Plastic water bottle caps, Christmas ornaments, and bouncy balls are also great things for cats to bat around when they're a bit bored.

Also things for her to climb on, a small cat tree is always great.

Good luck! And do keep in mind that she'll be less energetic as she gets older.

There are many things you can try, and ultimately it’s just the more responsible cat guardian to do. Most people think cats like to sleep all day, but my 45years of cat parent experience definitely shows otherwise. Cats will sleep if they have nothing else to do, but the two main things your cat is going to need are 1. Stimulation and play and 2. Territory.

Outdoor cats have established territory, it will take a while for your cat to adjust, so be prepared for many attempted jail breaks. A tall baby gate at the door may help, you can get a 48inch gate on amazon.

Secondly, your cat needs attention and distraction- but a couple of cat wands, one with a feather twirly at the end and one with a deer hair mouse - every cat I have ever known love these:

GoCat Da Bird Rod and Feather Cat Toy, Handmade in The USA (1 Bird) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BOVEU4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5zHZDb58EY5F7

Go Cat Cat Catcher Teaser Wand with Mouse Cat Toy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LPOUNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LAHZDbYVCB38S

But what ever it’s your cat likes, work towards 10 solid hunting minutes in the morning and again at night. Use the cats favorite toy to distract when they want to go out.

Finally- there is an amazing calming product called “licks”. If your cat starts howling, you squeeze the packet on their front arm, work it into the Fur, they lick it off and it was better for calming my cat than Prozac.

Licks - Cat Zen - Calming Aid and Stress Management- Tryptophan, L-Theanine, Eleuthero Root, and Ashwagandha Root - LiquiPaks - 30 Use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SLBMLR0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4CHZDbM1TA9DC

Good luck!!!

hey! I'm not u/BakingSoda1990 but I had a cat a few years ago that was a little overweight. She got down to a healthy weight when I transitioned her over to wet food instead of dry. Also getting her on a morning/evening feeding schedule seemed to help.

She passed away from old age (RIP, she was an awesome old lady) - so I adopted 2 new cats when I was ready. One of them prefers her kibble but I can get her to eat a little bit of the canned by microwaving it and mixing in some low sodium chicken broth. She's mostly on dry food now, but it is what it is.

It's ultimately your choice and u/BakingSoda1990 is definitely more knowledgeable but I wanted to add my two-cents. :) good luck!

also don't mean to spam you with links, but my cats LOVE this toy and I think it can easily be found at Petco or Petsmart:
Cat Dancer Products Rainbow Cat Charmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VPFC8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_MFU-BbPJV5CRF

more info:

https://www.thesprucepets.com/how-much-canned-food-to-feed-554404

https://www.catster.com/cat-food/wet-cat-food-vs-dry-cat-food

https://pets.webmd.com/cats/guide/overweight-cats-diets-and-associated-health-risks

Look up toys that move around and you might try catnip toys at special times of the day as a treat. Here are some I have heard that cats enjoy (my cat just likes to steal my hair ties and throw them around the room... when she isn't flinging spiders at me anyway).

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Hot-Pursuit-Concealed-Motion/dp/B06WP7F8YC/ref=sr_1_9?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1499637039&sr=1-9&keywords=cat++toy

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=cat++toy

You could also hide treats in places he frequents to encourage his hunting instinct. My cat also enjoys chasing the laser pointer but we only play with it once a day before treat time because she gets a little too excited. Some cats love to play with a laser but they never get the satisfaction of catching something so what we do is hide a treat and have her chase the laser around until finally landing her on the treat. Even though she knows where the treats are usually hidden by now, she still likes the game and waits. Just find what works best for your kitty :)

My cats are Sammy and Mittens! Sammy is the older cat at almost 8 years old and Mittens is only 3. My boyfriend got Sammy six months before he met me and we adopted Mittens together. Sammy is a grumpy old lady who's life revolves around meal time but she is also super cuddly and loveable. Mittens is like a picture perfect cat, she is always insanely adorable and posing, but she doesn't like to cuddle to much.

I would like an amazon gift card please because I am trying to save up for a drinking fountain for them. Mittens is prone to having a UTI and needs to be encouraged to drink more water.

I don't have a dog yet, but I plan on adopting one in the future. I bet your dogs would like this toy you stuff it with an empty water bottle instead of stuffing so they won't get stuffing everywhere and they love the krinkly noise it makes!

My dogs love their bed by Bessie and Barnie. It's so damn expensive (think about 125) but it's got a washable cover and it's super luxe. [see website here] (https://www.bessieandbarnie.com/)

[Favorite treats] (https://www.amazon.com/Zukes-Naturals-Roasted-Chicken-16-Ounce/dp/B000H0ZJHW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491847332&sr=1-1&keywords=zukes)

Also we got a [KitNipBox] (https://www.kitnipbox.com/) and also the dogs love a [BarkBox] (https://barkbox.com/)

[Cats fave scratcher] (https://www.amazon.com/PetFusion-Scratcher-Cardboard-Construction-unverified/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=sr_1_8?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1491847932&sr=1-8&keywords=cat+scratcher) This thing lasts around 6 months! Love it so much.

And if I may state, I do love our Roomba. It's pet related right?
*edit to add pure Roomba love ;)

Not sure what your budget is, but there are a few suggestions I can make.


2. Make grooming easy with bribes! Healthy treats like Catty Shack or Greenies make Brush Time easier for both parties.


3. A lot of professional groomers charge an arm and a leg for cats (because of their arms and legs), so do the grooming yourself! You will need a Furminator, nail clippers, and cleansing wipes. Groom often, and invest in a scratching post.


4. As long as you are using a tool for grooming cats (i.e.: Furminator) you don't have to worry about overdoing it. Brush as thoroughly as you can, and stop when your brush starts coming out clean (or nearly free of loose hairs).


5. General tips: Buy the best food your budget allows. Preferably wet food, or a diet half wet food and half dry food. Go grain free, like Merrick and/or Soulistic. For a healthy, shiny coat I would recommend Pet Naturals' Daily Best; And to reduce hairballs, Hairball. Don't use hairball remedies that contain petroleum jelly, it will give your baby the runs :(

EDIT: Formatting

I used to be terribly allergic to cats, but with a combination of drugs and anti-allergen products I hardly ever get any symptoms from my two cats. Some drugs work well for certain people and others don't work at all. You just have to try them until you find what works for you, but here are some of the common ones:

Loratadine (Claritin), cetirizine (Zyrtec), and fexofenadine (Allegra). These are newer antihistamines that are supposedly non-drowsy and last all day. I take cetirizine since loratadine doesn't seem to do anything for me and fexofenadine costs about twice as much.

Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) and chlorpheniramine. These are older antihistamines that work differently than the three mentioned above. I find them to be much more effective, but they only last a few hours and make me sleepy. Useful if you get allergic before going to bed. Oh and here's a tip: if you're buying generic diphenhydramine, look in both the allergy section and the sleep-aid section. The same exact drug is sold as allergy relief and as a sleep-aid, and sometimes one is cheaper than the other.

Cromolyn nasal spray (NasalCrom). This drug works by preventing the release of histamine in the first place, so it's best when taken prior to cat exposure. For me, this is the most effective one since most of symptoms are in the nose. It's also safe to use in combination with other allergy medicines.

In addition to medication, there are products you can buy that reduce the amount of cat allergen in the home:

ADS Anti-allergen Spray can stain some fabrics, so they make a different formula that doesn't stain but requires more frequent application.

Allerpet C is a solution that you can apply to your cat to make her less allergenic.

And I'm sure there are many more. Brushing your cat regularly can reduce shedding, which should help with allergies since cats lick themselves and the Fel d 1 protein comes from the saliva. I recommend a FURminator.

If you are planning on getting a cat, you might want to look into the different cat breeds as some are less allergenic than others. I've also read that on average female cats and cats with lighter coloured fur tend to be less allergenic, although I'm not sure if this is definitively true.

And even if none of this works, I'd say that having cats is worth putting up with a few allergies!

Shadow is probably very stressed out right now. Moving houses is a nightmare for cats because they depend on everything being the same from day to day. There are four things I would recommend looking into.

First is, if I'm understanding correctly, she has free access to the entire house, but only hisses in your bedroom? If that's the case, have there ever been any other cats or dogs kept in that bedroom? Could there be another cat's scent in there, maybe from a cat spraying or having litter box problems? A black light flashlight can help you find these spots on the carpet and walls if they're there, and then you can use an enzymatic cleaning product called Nature's Miracle to remove the scent. Remember, cats can smell things that we can't.

One of the pheremonal calming products people have been mentioning is Feliway. I think you could really benefit from a diffuser for your room. I know it says it's for scratching and urine marking, but it works for stress in general. It does also come in sprays which you can spray on certain things like cat carriers, furniture, etc. but supposedly it does need pretty frequent application, just so you know. Don't be discouraged if the diffuser doesn't seem to work right away. It can take a week or more but I've seen a definite improvement for my cats.

You might also want to pick up a book called Think Like a Cat, or something similar. There are so many things we as humans do that cats find threatening, startling, upsetting, etc. and we don't even know it. The truth is that she is hissing at you for a reason, whether it's the way you're approaching her, something she now associates with you, who knows. I bet you could figure it out with some insight from a good source.

One final thing that's pretty important. Cats who hiss, growl, or jump when touched sometimes are doing so because they're in pain. Pay attention to how exactly she's reacting to you. Especially since you say she has a heart problem, it's possible that she is physically uncomfortable. You may want to explain what's happening to your vet and see if they can find a physical cause.

And of course... a little sprinkling of fairy dust for luck ;)

Maybe try some new toys?

I've been meaning to make a list of my cats' favorite toys. I have two cats, brother and sister, Millie and Smokey, now about 9 months old.

First, I can't explain it, but this carrot. I bought it on a whim at a pet store because it was on clearance and I thought it kind of looked like the Minecraft carrot and I thought it would be cute to see them playing with it. It comes with separate catnip container and you can fill the carrot with catnip, but I didn't use any. OMG, they go crazy for the thing. They get super possessive of it. If the other cat comes near, they'll growl and run away. Smokey likes to be chased when he has the carrot in his mouth. I lunge like I want to steak his carrot and he runs a few feet away, daring me to try to take it again. Millie will self-play with the carrot, batting it around on our hardwood floors. They've gone through two already. I think it's time to get a third.

Da Bird. It was recommended here and it's awesome. Something about the movement, the twirling, the colors, the noise. They can't ignore this thing. If the feather thing gets destroyed, replacements are available and cheap.

Cat Dancer 101. This is a stiff wire with some cardboard bits on one end. Move it and shake it a bit and I guess it looks like a flying insect. On the plus side, when they catch it, it's fairly easy to get them to release it.

Cat Dancer 301. This is Millie's favorite. She knows where I keep it and "leads" me to it at every opportunity. Like, first thing when I wake up and when I get home from work. It's a short stick with a long strip of fleece material. Wave it as you move in a circle and they're mesmerized. When they catch it, it's a bit difficult to get them to release it.

Sorry I can't help you out - we're in the same boat financially - but I wanted to let you know that this stuff right here is great: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=36N3KEYR7492&coliid=I37BT3LL5HHPDH&psc=1

It lasts us much longer than Arm & Hammer, is better at odor blocking while being pretty much unscented itself (it doesn't have that weird cleaner-meets-citrus smell that litters like A&H have), and it's way cheaper than Arm & Hammer ($18 for a 40lb bag). If you haven't tried it before, I recommend checking it out when you get a chance (or adding it to your wishlist if you like).

Anyway, just wanted to let you know about it. We're a three cat household as well, so we're always looking for the best and most economical stuff when it comes to pet supplies.

Good luck!

Good on you for trying to do right by your dog! It sounds like her quality of life is generally good for a senior dog. I know how frustrating and exhausting it can be to clean up after an incontinent dog - believe me, I know! - but destroying an otherwise healthy dog for something like this is unconscionable.

You've already gotten good advice here, but I wanted to offer a clean-up suggestion that might make your parents more tolerant of her incontinence. Have you tried Nature's Miracle? It's great for getting rid of urine smells. You can also sprinkle baking soda onto a smelly rug, let it sit for an hour or two, and vacuum it up to help neutralize odors.

My pup takes a prescription medication that caused temporary excessive thirst and excessive urination while he was adjusting to it. Our vet encouraged us to schedule his water intake during that time. Basically, while he was adjusting to the medicine he was getting all the water he needed, but timed in such a way that made accidents less likely. He got 2/3 of his overall water with his meals, and then got a potty break shortly afterwards. The other 1/3 of his water was given at other times, but in smaller increments. (I felt really funny/bad about doing this, but both our regular vet and the amazing, extremely competent specialist who prescribed this medication suggested it, and it did work well.) So you might check with your vet to see if this would be safe/appropriate for your dog.

I've also been giving him this bladder supplement. I'm not sure if it's really working, but it could be worth a try for you. (Always check with your vet about adding supplements to your dog's diet, of course!)

This approach may take some time, but my cat eventually learned that if I am in the bedroom with the light off and fan on (its an oscillating one that makes a fairly strong humming sound), I am down for the night and it'll be at least a few hours before I come back. After a few weeks of this routine, he gave up on screaming outside my door. The bedroom is off-limits to him at all times, as well. If I'm in there with the light on, he will meow at me, because he knows I'm likely to come back soon.

Mine's a door-rattler, too - he can fit his paw in the crack under the bedroom door and wrap it around the door. To protect the bottom of the door from his claws, I put some rubber weatherstripping on it. For the floor, consider getting a protective film to put down where she usually scratches. Hardware stores sell them to use during painting / construction, and many of them are affordable and tear-resistant.

It may be inconvenient, but do your best to cat-proof the house so you can ignore her acting out with minimal collateral damage. Keep anything fragile in drawers or cabinets unless you're actively using it. Consider making the bedroom a no-cat zone and putting as many valuables as possible in there. Don't leave food or drinks unattended - if you have to step away, stick them in the fridge or a cabinet while you're gone.

Also consider an electronic toy that moves around or something more interactive that will keep her engaged at night or while you're busy without the need for a human to facilitate playtime. Here are a few ideas::

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Feather-Whirl-Electronic-Motion/dp/B00KQGRIKI/

https://www.amazon.com/Catit-Design-Senses-Circuit-Original/dp/B001LWRFW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WP7F8YC

https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive-Petstages/dp/B00DT2WL26

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0714D3FDT?psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DJ6XW

https://www.amazon.com/Hex-480-3030-Nano-Assorted-Styles/dp/B01B45AMIO/

Also, if she ignores the scratching post but loves to tear the crap out of your floor, she may prefer a horizontal scratcher. One wasted $30 scratching post later, I figured that out about my cat. Something like these would be worth a try:

https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-vary/dp/B000IYSAIW - doubles as a toy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009YQ5KJM/ - this one is nice because you can lay it flat on the floor, prop it up at an angle with the cardboard flap, or hang it from a doorknob to see which works best. Also comes with catnip to sprinkle inside it. These have corrugated cardboard surfaces and don't last as long as carpet or sisal rope, but my cat seems more satisfied with something he can actually destroy. He'll jump on it, attack it with his claws, then roll around in the bits he tore off. You will vacuum a lot of cardboard flakes off the floor as it starts to wear out, but for me it's worth the trouble. If you don't like the mess, you can buy this one to test whether horizontal, inclined, or hung against the wall works best, then invest in a similar style of scratcher made from more durable material. That was my plan, but he just loves this stuff so much I order one as an add-on every month when I buy litter.

I really want this cat bed off my house/pets wishlist! My cats don't currently have a cat bed, so I'm sure they would find it entertaining. AND LOOK AT IT, IT'S SO CUTE. (MRW) I have a super fat kitten that would look adorable being eaten by a shark hanging out in this cat bed. And it has free shipping and pretty good reviews, so that's cool!

Thanks for the contest opportunity :)

The first thing to resolve is playtime. It's possible she just loves plastic, but the fact that she doesn't want to play with you at all suggests either a picky cat, or one that doesn't yet trust you. You're the food provider, but playtime is also quality bonding time for a cat. She's already fully grown, so maybe it's a learned thing, but it's something that you should be able to correct to some extent.

There are some motion cat toys that you could try using to get her playing more on her own.

like this

this

this

or this

It's also possible that you aren't playing with her the way she wants to be played with, cats can be very fickle about this. My own cat is very picky about how my SO and I play with her, and she picks one of us based on how she wants to play. She'll pick me when she wants to chase a stick toy, and my SO when she wants to wrestle, that kind of thing.

Have you tried using the straws to play with her? Maybe try hiding a straw under a blanket where she can see it move from wiggling it. You could also try new tactics with the stick toys like this, hide them under things and move them. My cat only likes the stick toys if I alternate between moving them very slowly while in her line of sight, slowly moving out of her line of sight, and then moving it quickly to get her to chase it when she tries to pounce it.

I'd also suggest looking up different playtime techniques for cats online, like on YouTube or what have you, especially related to more wild/feral cats, as they also don't really like playing with humans. I'm not saying she's wild of course, but because she's more standoffish from you it may be along the same lines.

If you can get her to play with you consistently, then you can very easily tire her out and get her on the schedule YOU want her on. The idea is that cats hunt/play and then eat the reward of the hunt, and then sleep.

My own cat used to be very similar with waking us up very early for food, usually by making lots of noise and biting if that didn't work. Once we were able to get her on the hunt/eat/sleep schedule with her timed meals, we basically stopped the bad morning behavior entirely.

Sorry for the long post, hope this helps!

I ask because aggressive behaviour in cats often stems from a lack of play.

I adopted my cat when she was 7 years old, and at first I thought she didn't like to play either, but it ended up being a matter of figuring out what kind of play she likes. I don't know how many toys I've bought for her but she doesn't care for most of them except Da Bird, which she loves to stalk and pounce on (but she isn't much of a "chaser," as it turns out). If you haven't tried it, I'd suggest giving it a shot - it worked for me, and I've heard similarly about it from a bunch of people on this subreddit. You can find it for pretty cheap. After some googling, I found that Jackson Galaxy wrote a piece on how to play with Da Bird in a most enticing way.

I feel like I should point out that I'm not a shill for either Da Bird or Jackson Galaxy! In particular, I don't think very highly of these "holistic remedies" he sells, but I think his behavioural analysis is great.

Get them to a vet for a checkup, and then yes get better food. But if they're overweight and have been on supermarket kibble they've likely got some health issues. Also, keeping something that smells like the grandmother around for them will help them transition into you and your hubby and dog moving into their home and her being gone. Feliway may also be a good idea to get as well.

​

And exercise them! I got this for my cats and they adore it: https://www.amazon.com/Petstages-Tower-Tracks-Track-Interactive/dp/B00DT2WL26/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=cat+ball+tower+toy&qid=1556837834&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

They play with it for a long time! And there's also a laser thing you can get that moves without you having to do anything but turn it on, that way if you don't have time to play, or aren't feeling well, they still get their exercise! Cats also love bubbles and they make Catnip bubbles!

​

Lastly, if you'd like I can knit you a toy for them and send it your way. Shouldn't cost me too much to ship. (I'm offering to send it for free) I make Pokeball cat toys, F-Bomb cat toys, and little knitted mice. While they're safe for cats, as with any toy with parts than can be possibly digested, I advise you to monitor the pet when they're playing with them. You can see what they look like here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/KleineMouskin

​

If you want me to send you one for them, shoot me a pm!

It may just be a matter of finding toys that can keep him engaged. There are toys that are like catnip kickers or static little stuffies, but then there are also some that are battery-operated or plug in (lasers, concealed motion toys, magnetic toys).

My personal preference, especially if I'm not home to supervise are toys that can be active with just the cat's actions alone. This woven straw is one of my cat's favourites because it catches in her claws as she swats it, so as she moves, it follows her motion until it uncatches and flings off, so she'll go chase it.

I've got this cheap little wand that I use to play with her that moves fairly unpredictably and actually got my cat panting because she was so into it.

Another thing I do everyday is spend 15-20 minutes making her chase her meal. I feed wet food during the day and offer a limited amount of kibble at night, so what I do with the kibble is toss it up the stairs or around the house within her sight so she chases each piece to get fed. I do this until she gets so tired that she has to lie down 3 or 4 separate times, and then I let her rest.

After that, I fill some foraging toys with some more kibble so she has something to work for. If your cat is food motivated, this could work well for you too because it keeps them mentally and physically busy. I have a treat ball and a Wobbert (a little more challenging than a regular treat ball) but I find they're quick to solve and not very engaging. Most of the ones I get are dog toys:

• Mad Scientist
  
  
• Jigsaw Slider
  
  
• Flip board level 2
  
  
• Brain mover toy
  
  
• Lucky Slots
  
  
• Training level 3
  
  
• Training level 3
  
  Also, I hide kibble pieces all over her furniture and any cat-friendly furniture. In toys, in any nooks and crannies, in places I want her to explode. It's a good reason to get her feeling like she has a bit of a mission and poking around.

> . I have some Febreze spray here that I haven't used yet, but I do see that the can says to keep away from children and pets. I don't know if this spray would be harmful for her or if they just mean it so that the pet doesn't bite it or if it being in the air is dangerous to her health. It isn't that huge blue bottle, it is this thin one with a slanted top, I figured maybe I could take her out of the room to clean it and spray the Febreze then let her back in a little bit after.

Febreeze is not enzymatic cleaner. You need Nature's Miracle. Period.

> For socializing, my girlfriend has a french bulldog and there is also a pet store near by that I think could help me out with letting her play with other puppies and for her to see other people.

Has the puppy had its shots yet? You should not have them be around puppies that are also not vaccinated until your puppy itself has been vaccinated. The last thing you need on top of a puppy with a high-risk of behavioral issues to then get Parvoviros. Go here and scroll down to the "Vaccinations and Disease Risk..." section to make sure you're doing it right. If you know for a fact that your girlfriend's dog is 100% healthy and vaccinated, that should be fine.

You have a lot of work ahead of you, but you're on the right track since you're already concerned and looking to be a good owner. Good luck.

Look into getting this litter box system for your little guy.

I hope this doesn’t get flagged and I’m not a product pusher (check my previous posts and comments) but this is an amazing litter box system. We used to find litter EVERYWHERE; our bed, on furniture until I just had enough. This is awesome. It’s a dehydration system that the pee passes straight through to the weewee pad underneath and the poop’s moisture is pulled out by the dehydration pellets so when you take it out it’s just a dry log. Also, there’s no smell, so easy to take care of and really cheap. I’ve turned 3 coworkers onto this system and they will never go back to regular litter.

Also, there’s a $7 manufacturer coupon on their website so it makes it super affordable.

Cute kitten!!

2 days? perfectly normal for many cats. as others have already said, you have nothing to worry about. I'm just going to echo what others have said: let him have hidey holes, and make sure there are accessible perches that are even higher than you so kitty can watch everything when he decides to come out.

Maybe every once in a while lay down near his hole, and lay down some treats, maybe in a little line from right near the entrance to right up next to you. Close your eyes, take a little nap or something, let him explore in his own good time. Then get up and leave after a while (15 minutes or more) if he hasn't come to you. But don't stare at him or watch him during this time. Do that every few days just to see how close to you he's come in eating the treats.

also, regarding water, i STRONGLY recommend this water fountain. it's great, easy to clean, doesn't need to be cleaned often, and most cats love it. healthier to have moving water too.

Energy drinks are my favorite self-indulgent treats. Other little things for myself are cute earrings, stationary supplies like pens and washi tape, enamel pins, or makeup. I adore the Korean and Japanese makeup that comes in the cutest packaging. Most of that stuff I do not get on Amazon though.

I like getting stuff for my cats, too. I recently bought [one of these] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DT2WL26/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1). One of my cats loves it, the rest are mostly indifferent. Still worth it.

I also recently bought this set of succulent gardening tools to help me manage my growing succulent garden. It's very handy!

This is honestly the best way to stop being CF! I have fur babies myself and they are great.

Make sure she has something to claw and climb on, or she will claw your furniture. I have one kind of like this, and one of these. They help a lot. If you can't afford them, there are alternatives. :) And lots of toys. Things they can bat around, ones that look like fishing poles, that kind of thing.

Good luck!! Post pictures!!

First off, thanks so much for the reply!


Now in regards to what you said...

• I get the feeling that stress is probably the cause but I'm honestly unsure of ways to calm him. He likes to play but he very picky with how/when that happens.
  
  
  
• A tree/more vertical space is probably long overdue
  
  
  
• Do you know if this would be good for his stress?
  
  
• We currently have two litter boxes and are tight on space but I suppose a third could work
  
  
  
• Thanks for the suit idea! It could save me a lot of time

toys:

cat dancer

the hot pursuit

cat tunnel

crinkle balls

litter:

my favorites in order are:

Arm and Hammer Seal and Clump

Ever Clean with activated charcoal (clumping)

Tidy Cats clumping

litterbox:

jumbo high-back litterbox

i would avoid covered or anything that makes the kitty feel trapped. no reason not to have tall walls, especially with sloppy kittens. you're also going to want a litter mat so they don't track it everywhere.

food:

kittens. eat. constantly. so keep out dry food 24/7 and feed a little wet food morning and night. this is temporary, don't free-feed dry food when they're an adult. you'll want to transition kitty to scheduled feedings when they're 6-8 months old, and i recommend wet food only at that point as kibble really isn't great.

my kitten has been thriving on premium edge kitten food but purina's kitten offerings look good and are a bit easier to find. with wet food supplementation. if you want, tell me your budget and i can give you some recommendations.


misc:

72" wooden cat condo - (or something like it, you definitely want something 6 ft+ for them to climb)

a tall scratching post - random one i found. tall scratchers are healthy for your cat, they have vertical muscles that need to be exercised.

cardboard scratchers - i like this one as it lasts a long time and you can flip it over for a new side.

not sure about flea meds as my cats are indoors. your vet will know what is effective in your region (some flea meds are completely useless in certain states). i would keep your cat indoors though.

Winter is coming D:

I already love you because of your username, which I always read as accio-corinne (hp related is my assumption but i could be wrong) and then I went and looked at your wishlist and I'm enamored with you. Rittersport??? and cat toys???? and all this other awesome stuff? Yes please.

Anyways, I think your wishlist was definitely lacking is this awesome cat scratcher I know my kitty likes to scratch furniture and I think every cat owner needs one :)

Thanks for the contest!

You don't say how old this kitten is. It's important to realize, kittens are not vicious. It's just what you said: "He wants to play." So go get a "DaBird" (http://amzn.to/2x1dpAG) toy and play the heck out of him. Play until he drops. Hunt, catch, kill, eat. That's the instincts of a kitten.

Keep him indoors, give him plenty of play, give him a window perch to get some fresh air and watch the goings on, and make sure not to 'play' with him with your hands. He will grow up thinking they are toys. And as they grow, they gain a lot more strength. If you wear him out with play on a regular basis, he will be a happy cat.

And Please do not scold him or abandon him. He's just being himself ... in other words, a cat. You don't want to give him a complex for doing something natural, you just want to look at his world through his eyes, and make it as happy as possible, while teaching him proper etiquette. :)

PLEASE do not underestimate litter box logistics.

I live in a small apartment with three neutered males; 10, 8, and 3 years old, indoor only. Currently, I'm not having any issues, but I have worked hard to find the right litter box situation. The older ones have had all kinds of issues, including a serious kidney stone in the oldest, who got surgery a few years ago for it.

Maybe two years ago, we had a litter box problem where they were peeing in corners or close to the boxes. I had 4 of those igloos (rip off, do not buy) in the garage that they could easily access through a cat door. As it turned out, this was stressing out my cats. I can only speculate as to why -- perhaps one cat was being a bully and guarding the boxes, maybe the boxes were too small, maybe the sudden opening of the garage door was scaring them from going in the garage, etc...

so, to make a long story short, here is how I solved the problem:

1. Different litter boxes. big ones. HUGE ones.
   
   Cats do not like to feel boxed in. They are sensitive little creatures. Although they like privacy, they also need to feel like they have an easy escape route if something scares them. Use 50 gallon storage containers, and cut a door for your kitty. Do NOT use a lid. No one likes looking at cat poop, but making them go in a little closed in box at their age could be causing the problem. These DIY litter boxes are cheap, and the high walls will prevent your fur babies from flinging litter all over. here is a good example:
   http://catsadored.com/LITTERBOXES/litterbox-regular-height-wi.jpg
   
   
2. Switch litter, and use a ton of it.
   
   Now that you have 50 gallon tubs, you have plenty of space to fill. kitties like to dig -- let them! I was using the light weight pine shavings for a long time because dragging a giant bag of sand home was awful. That stuff isn't the best, and cheap kitty litter is, well, cheap. This litter had good reviews so I tried it and they loved it! Also, amazon prime will deliver it to your door. hehehe :3
   http://www.amazon.com/Precious-Cat-Premium-Clumping-Litter/dp/B0009X29WK/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1450208844&sr=1-1&keywords=precious+cat+litter
   
   
3. Litter box placement.
   
   The general rule of thumb is one box per cat, + one more. So, if you have two kitties, you should have three litter boxes. I have 3 kitties, therefore I have 4 litter boxes. This way, no one fights, and if one cat is being a jerk, they have lots of other options. The hardest part in all of this is finding a place for the boxes. They're big, they're ugly, and they require easy access every day for cleaning. The important part is that they are spaced far apart. Don't let your cats watch each other go, it makes them uncomfortable. Maybe put one in each room of the shop, or house when you can finally bring them home. :)
   
   
4. Kitty Xanax and playtime
   
   I think I saw someone else posting about this too. The poor things sound like they are stressed. Help them out. You should also be showing your cats love and attention. They might not be around for all of your life, but you will be around for all of theirs. Maybe they are trying to tell you something.
   
   
5. No-Kill options
   
   sorry about the facebook link;
   https://www.facebook.com/greatbigstory/videos/1498230950479333/?theater
   
   look into adoption if you feel like you've tried everything or you are simply done dealing with it.
   
   
   I hope this helps. Also, sorry for the formatting, everything is now step 1. I don't feel like fixing it, nor do I feel like it's important. :)

Thanks! It was very encouraging. Our discussion made me realize that there IS help out there, and that she doesn't have several of the behavior problems that would probably make me cry on a daily basis!

A few things he suggested (most of which was more obedience based):

• Toys: I normally keep all of Scully's toys out, and she seems to get a bit bored of them. He suggested only introducing one at a time so she doesn't get too desensitized.
  
• "Look at me" is going to be the biggest thing we focus on in our training. Maintaining this eye contact is going to help us in a plethora of scenarios; if she is looking at me and keeping that attention, she isn't reacting to whatever is bothering her.
  
• "Place" and "Release" are also something we are going to go heavy on. I expressed how I can't be in my bedroom with the cat while she is out of the crate - he suggested we work with one of these in the house, ONLY during training. I love this idea, because she isn't going to be allowed unsupervised, out of the crate for quite some time.
  
• Slip leash vs. Harness: This was a bit of a tough sell for me. We have had great success with the Easy Walk - but he only uses a 6ft slip leash in training. I actually already had, which we tried out recently - the pulling was insane. His take is that harnesses actually increase the pulling; we'll see how that goes.
  
  Overall, I like the approach and I'm considering hiring him. He can help us get the obedience basics down first, so she is better set up for success once we see the behaviorist. I'm scheduling her evaluation with the behaviorist in about 4 weeks.
  

Nail trimming advice from DinkaAnimalLover:


Try to see if you can do the trim on the ground at his level... Also often placing one arm over their back and holding them down just a little while you check on something makes them feel more secure and they are less likely to squirm or try to get away (hence two sets of hands may help).

To get the bunny more used to nail clippings try to establish a clear reward mechanism - for example show the bunny two blueberries. Give one right away and the other right after you are done. Over a couple times this will build more positive associations with nail trimming as a reward will expected.

TIP: in case there is any bleeding, use corn start to put over the little nail and the bleeding will stop. It's not pleasant, but it happens and it won't hurt the bunny.. just scare them.

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Take a look at some of the resources below - they should really help make tell you exactly what to do.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtHczjBRaqI - great video on nail trimming (shows you what to do for black nails)

https://www.amazon.com/Safari-Professional-Large-Nail-Trimmer/dp/B0002ARQV4 - best nail clippers


Great advice here also on how to handle nails: https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/adof8k/first_ever_successful_nail_clipping_by_me_and_not/ and here https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/9k00rq/were_trying_to_get_him_used_to_being_held_as_of/ and here

https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/avd5hs/im_terrified_to_clips_my_bunnys_nails/

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Oh don't let the nails get too long, the longer the nails grow the more the little nail cuticle inside grows out too and it prevents you from trimming the nails shorter later... Keeping the nails consistently shorter will also help keep that little cuticle shorter

Long nails can also get snagged and ripped off causing injury, and they put pressure on bunny heels possibly causing sore hocks over time from the imbalance.

You should trim the nails once in 4 to 6 weeks for sure.

My cat loves sisal posts but won't touch cardboard apparently! I bought her this fancy scratcher 2 months ago and she's only scratched it like twice lol https://www.amazon.ca/PetFusion-Scratcher-Construction-significantly-alternatives/dp/B004X6UEH6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=petfusion+scratcher&qid=1551210284&s=gateway&sr=8-1

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The reviews rave about how their cats love to scratch it and are laying on it all the time. My cat never does either. But she loves playing with toys in the holes so atleast its not a total waste :p

Your boy needs to RUN.

He's an adolescent (actual maturity is between 2-3 years) and has lots of energy. You're his only outlet, so it's up to you to give him appropriate ways to drain his energy.

Use a distance toy like this to run him until he's panting twice a day.

Then you get to work his brain.

If you're feeding him dry food from a bowl get one of these instead. Also, check his food for added sugar. I usually recommend grain free as well.

Look into clicker training for cats, catification for your home, and a bird feeder for outside a window.

Smart energetic kitties are fun, and he's trying to play with you because he likes you. Stop punishing him for trying to play, it won't work and it's not fair.

Take it from someone with 4 cats who fosters kittens, your boy will calm down some. But he needs to be burning more energy to be tolerable until then.

It will take a while while they both adjust. I was in a similar position; my female cat could have been better and we wondered if she needed a friend. We got one, a kitten, and did the long method of introduction (which involves keeping the new cat/kitten in a separate room for about a week! I can go into more detail if you want). It went well. They are good friends now, and my first cat has benefitted immensely from having a companion.

It's a tough choice; if they don't get along, neither will be happy (not to mention YOU won't be happy either!). But if they do, you could be providing a richer environment for your existing kitty, and saving another from the shelter.

If you are unsure, I would see what options the shelter has, like if, after a month, you know it's not going to work, can they take the kitty back. That would suck for the cat from the shelter, but in the end they should go to a home where they'd work out forever.

Oh I have a suggestion- to make the transition easier for both animals, try getting a pheromone diffuser- I did it and I think it helped in the adjustment process. Feliway was what I used and I will recommend it! It doesn't work for every cat, but if it does it really works. It worked for my problem cat and made quite a difference.

I hope you try getting a second cat and that it works out. Good luck!

I saw your wish list and you don't have any waste bags! I know toys and beds are important, but you have to think about hygiene as well. I bought waste bags similar to these and they're really important, so I would recommend getting them:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NABTGY2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550399181&sr=8-1&keywords=Dog&dpPl=1&dpID=41wU8IMCLcL&ref=plSrch

I thought these were pretty cool as wel, in case you wanna groom your dogs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N9KSITZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1550399482&sr=8-27&keywords=Dog

And lastly this toy looks really nice. I remember I used to have one of these Gumbys(kids toy), and the dog version looks pretty good:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00A80X19E/ref=mp_s_a_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1550399610&sr=8-21&keywords=Dog&dpPl=1&dpID=41IhHv4douL&ref=plSrch

Of course I do! :-D We used the Drinkwell Platinum 360 and our cats love it! It's really sturdy, and a great thing about the stainless steel is that you can put it right in the dishwasher. I'm not a fan of the plastic ones, as they can sometimes harbor bacteria (even after cleaning) that can cause chin acne, and I find them harder to get clean. I think some of them are top-rack safe in the dishwasher, but the stainless steel ones can just go wherever you can fit them and get nice and clean. :)

Aw, your girls are adorable!!

My guys would love one of these. I would also love one, because maybe they would shred on it instead of my legs! I foster kittens and currently have five foster babies and their mama.

Man's best friend and thanks for the contest!

In a bit of a rush, but some quick tips:

You might need to reintroduce to the cats. This site was a lifesaver when I adopted my second cat:

http://wvcats.com/integrating_cats.htm

It’s also important to play with the rambunctious cats a LOT to wear them out. This is a great toy:

Cat Dancer Products Rainbow Cat Charmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VPFC8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ug4EDbGVW8FE1

More places for them to climb - this is the cheapest but most well built cat tree I’ve found (you don’t need to be a Costco member to order):

https://www.costco.com/New-Cat-Condos-4-level-Cat-Lounger-.product.100423046.html

I looove this pet bed for your exact struggle.

My rescue boy STILL randomly marks our house (it’s been four years since adopting him).

That bed is so easy to wash and durable. I vacuum mine or hose it if it’s truly dirty (it’s meant to be hosed off).

I don’t think you will be retraining that poor abused boy at this point, I commend you on doing your best.

You might modify a sherpa pillow cover to snugly fit over the top. Maybe a fitted covering would be less appealing to bunch up and pee on.

Regardless, it may be easier to surrender to daily blanket washes and use that as his bed. I was so fed up with how most pet beds are not washer-friendly. The Coolaroo is great for allergies since I can clean it easily and wash blankies. Best of luck.

I'm going to summon /u/iamadudette and say she would like this for her ADORABLE cat, Bubby.

She's probably one of the most talented people I know, her art is incredible, even if she doesn't believe it! I chose her because she's one of my best friends and she deserves good things.

Kindness is key.

Windows would be very hard as they really like sunlight and are naturally curious. That will probably be a losing battle outside of outright blocking the path.

As far as destructive play goes diversion is the route. Cats are all very different so it will be a process of discovery. A scratch toy is a staple. Note that they will only use it on their terms and ignore it entirely. It is recommended to play with them 30 mins or so a day. That can be a bit much. I've had some pretty good success with this

https://www.amazon.com/SmartyKat-Hot-Pursuit-Concealed-Motion/dp/B06WP7F8YC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550785987&sr=8-4&keywords=cat+motion+toy

as an automatic solution when you don't have enough time. If a cat gets excited about a hand moving under a blanket, they will love that toy. The rough play will burn out the motor after a couple months though if you use it as frequently as I have. I rebuy them often as I feel they are practically magic in how effective they are despite breaking somewhat soon. I feel its worth 10ish $ a month to just be able to push a button and the cat basically has a baby sitter on a timer. Additionally 50% of cats like catnip and you can use that to distract and tire them out.


Keeping cats off desks and counters can be one of the more difficult things. An alternative such as a cat tree taller than the object you want them off of is usually the most effective route. People have cited orange scents (cats hate them), foil, and double sided tape to keep cats off/away from things. Those items have never worked for me personally though. I've also tried a spray bottle and that was a complete failure. They just learned to be scared of the bottle or my body language and never connected the discipline with the action they were doing that caused it lol.

In short. Diversion and compromise are typically the most effective option you have, and flat out obstruction if its absolutely necessary. Getting into the right mentality helps. Don't expect immediate or 100% results.