Reddit mentions: The best cleaning chamois

We found 194 Reddit comments discussing the best cleaning chamois. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 40 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

19. CARCAREZ Premium Microfiber Towels, Car Drying Wash Detailing Buffing Polishing Towel with Plush Edgeless Microfiber Cloth, 450 GSM 16x16 inch Pack of 6 (Yellow)

    Features:
  • ⭐IDEAL MICROFIBER TOWELS FOR CARS - These car towels have perfect size 16"x16" for ideal handling and control while detailing. This size can make you hold the folded towel comfortably to use every clean side. And these car microfiber towels are handy and will easily fit into any car doorway, glove compartment or armrest
  • ⭐GENTLE CARE OF YOUR VALUED CAR – Our edgeless microfiber towel will not leave any scratch on your car surface, unlike a car microfiber towel with stiff seams on its edges. This super plush microfiber towel is the softest car cleaning cloth available. This makes it absolutely the safest car towel ever, which could be used on any sensitive surface. It picks up dirt and holds it deep in its structure, preventing scratches while gentle microfiber is polishing your car
  • ⭐SMOOTH CAR DRYING - This incredibly soft microfiber car drying towel will not leave any moist on your car. They are made of premium microfiber cleaning cloth for cars, which is 450 GSM and has dual-sided plush. They can absorbs two times more than traditional cleaning microfiber, so you can greatly reduce the drying time. CAUTION: our microfiber car towels should be machine washed at a low temperature and dried with soften
  • ⭐MULTIPURPOSE 6 PACK – Our car wash towels drying capabilities can be used not only for automotive purposes. Feel free to use it on variety of other surfaces, including household windows, tiles, dishes, mirrors or glasses…
  • ⭐WE GOT YOU COVERED – If, for any reason, you do not like our car drying towels, CarCarez will return your money with no questions asked, as we stand for our customers to the end. Try the product, with no risks!
CARCAREZ Premium Microfiber Towels, Car Drying Wash Detailing Buffing Polishing Towel with Plush Edgeless Microfiber Cloth, 450 GSM 16x16 inch Pack of 6 (Yellow)
Specs:
ColorYellow
Number of items6
Size16" x 16"
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🎓 Reddit experts on cleaning chamois

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where cleaning chamois are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
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u/jauntworthy · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I've always struggled to keep my vehicles clean because 1) they were always old, 2) I've lived in condos, 3) car washes did a terrible job / detailers charged too much, and 4) I didn't realize you could do all of this yourself pretty effectively.


When I bought a new truck at the beginnging of the year, I randomly stumbled upon an Ammo NYC video and the nerd / clean-freak was intrigued. A couple dozen videos later, and I was hooked. Shout out to Larry for your passion - thank you for the insane amount of information on your channel. (Wish I could afford all of your products, or that you had some of them on Amazon!).

Living in a condo, I have to swing by my local coin wash and take up a bay with a few buckets during off-peak hours, but I've gotten it down to 1.5 hours and looking like this every time.

I've only been doing this for a few months, but thought I'd share the products I've researched and selected based on reviews and costs. Hope this helps save someone time!

TOOLS

  • McGuire-Nicholas 22015 15-Inch Collapsible Tote - https://amzn.to/2HXGsvd - I love this thing. Handle is sturdy and holds every chemical I need.
  • Relentless Drive Ultimate Car Wash Mitt - https://amzn.to/2KJC7td - Great mitt and would strongly recommend it. I've only used the mitt for a few washes so I can't comment on durability, but if I had to guess I think it's going to hold up. My only complaint is that it's so voluminous that it's difficult to rinse / wring out the dirt when using the two-bucket method. Not a big enough problem to look for another mitt, though.

    BUCKETS

  • Chemical Guys ACC_101 Detailing Bucket Kit - https://amzn.to/2KJb552 - a good starter bucket, but it's worth calling out how much of this stuff is BS marketing: the bucket is only 4 gallons, the gamma lid can be bought for cheaper on amazon, the citrus gloss is OK, and the wash mitt is worthless / isn't going to hold up. I barely used the mitt once and fuzz falls off constantly when handling.
  • Adam's Grit Guard Wash Bucket with Lid - https://amzn.to/2IoSflo - Better value than chemical guys, but the bucket is just a regular bucket ($4 at Home Depot) and the gamma lid can be purchased for $10-15 on Amazon. I'm not convinced grit guards are worth it, but more on that later.
  • Grit Guard Washboard Bucket Insert - https://amzn.to/2HW4juZ - the product is well made and does what it's intended to do, but I'm skeptical of its value. Yes, rubbing your mitt on a washboard would intuitively get dirt to fall off, but is it actually more effective than using your hands (which you do anyway to wring out the mitt)? And I'm not buying that the fins "trap dirt." Anybody who looks at their rinse bucket while washing wheels for example can plainly see the water's black. Dirt's floating everywhere.


    CHEMICALS

  • Mothers 08216 California Gold Instant Detailer - https://amzn.to/2KJ2f7t - this stuff has done a pretty good job for quick wipe-downs, spot cleans, etc.
  • Griot's Garage 11108 Window Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2Iq5CSF - The spray bottle itself is awesome and works really well. The solution also seems to work well, though I've only ever used it after washing the truck and so I'm not sure how much it helps.
  • Meguiar's G3626 Ultimate Waterless Wash & Wax - https://amzn.to/2jFg3DJ - I used this a few times with the microfiber directional pass method after some serious pollen clouds invaded Austin, and it worked surprisingly well. Ran through 3-4 towels to do my entire truck, then spot-cleaned with an instant detailer. Even though wheel wells and a few pieces were still dirty, it was a huge improvement without the hassle of a full wash. Will definitely be using this as my in-between wash method.
  • Chemical Guys V7 High Gloss Spray Sealant and Quick Detailer - https://amzn.to/2HXiQ9R - I'm new to detailing, but this stuff is probably the most impressive chemical of everything I've used. The combination of a damp microfiber + V7 produces the result everyone thinks about when they think about car washes: a clean car with no streaks or water spots. Wringing out my microfiber towel can get old, but the end result is just awesome.
  • Chemical Guys Citrus Wash and Gloss - https://amzn.to/2I1knvx - I don't have the luxury of a frother right now, but from simply adding some in a bucket and using a power washer to generate suds, I get decent foam and the soap seems to work well. That said, it's not earth-shattering and I will probably try other washes when I run out.


    INTERIOR

  • Mothers 06512 All-In-One Leather Care - https://amzn.to/2IlawAg - This stuff works great and smells even better.


    WHEELS

  • Adam's Deep Wheel Cleaner - https://amzn.to/2K09l6f - The spray bottle is terribly difficult to press and I always end up using way more than I want. I'm not confident I need to use this instead of just using soap. Maybe it's for exceptionally dirty cars or those with tons of brake dust, but I'm rarely in either camp so I may not buy some more after I run out.
  • Adam's Hex-Grip Pro Tire Dressing Applicator - https://amzn.to/2HYtb5y - Works well and easy to handle.
  • Mothers Wheel Brush - https://amzn.to/2K0Ky1Y - really like how easy this is to handle and how soft the bristles are. Highly recommended.
  • Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel - https://amzn.to/2KJsxGP - This is a good low-gloss gel, though I need to try additional coats to see if I can get those tire shinier.
  • ABN Car Wheel Rim Cleaning 3-Piece Kit - https://amzn.to/2KFgSIR - Yes the big woolie has good reach and allows you to clean the inside of your rims effectively, but the handle is annoyingly difficult to hold after it becomes saturated / heavy to hold.


    TOWELS

  • Chemical Guys Professional Grade Premium Microfiber Towels, Gold - https://amzn.to/2HY8Q0a - these things are outsidanding and are a great value. Definitely watch Larry's video on microfiber care, which fixed all of my annoyances with microfibers accruing fuzz in the dryer.
  • THE RAG COMPANY EAGLE EDGELESS 500 Korean 70/30 Super Plush 500gsm Microfiber Detailing Towels - https://amzn.to/2HYVmky - very high plush and high quality, though I end up using the Chemical Guys towels more often and save these for random spot details. Probably not ideal.
  • THE RAG COMPANY Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Korean 70/30 Microfiber - https://amzn.to/2rrveVg - work great for cleaning windows and mirrors.
  • Nylon Laundry Bag - https://amzn.to/2rtYOcP - I have one bag for clean and one for dirty. Has done a great job of keeping dust off the rags during storage.
u/trippinglydotnet · 18 pointsr/BurningMan

My experience with dust and RVs is summarized here. This approach keep the RV reasonably clean the entire burn, and I usually can get it spotless in less than 4 hours post Burn (2 people working).

​

Here's most of the post -- formatting is better on the link and there's info re the issues with bike racks covering license plates, etc. on the link as well:

​

Preparing the RV for Burning Man

The best thing you can do to make sure your RV doesn’t get damaged at Burning Man or require extensive cleanup is to do the right prep work.

Floors. First, protect the floors. If you have wood floors, use red rosin paper like this. If you have carpet, use disposable carpet protection like this. Bring enough to change the protection a few times during your burn. One roll of the red rosin paper allows us to change the main area three times during the event in our 34' RV.

Windows. Next, cover all rubber molding on the outside of the RV with either high quality painters tape or (better yet) gaffer tape. Cleaning molding is very challenging, and the tape will not only keep it clean, but also keep dust from getting under it. Make sure it’s wide enough to the edges of the molding - at least 2”. The gaffer tape is significantly more expensive, but is easy to remove and won’t leave a film. If you are using painter tape, be sure to test it on a small area before going by affixing it to some molding and then running a hair dryer on it to heat it up. If it passes the test, be sure to also check once or twice during the Burn to ensure it doesn’t leave a sticky residue when you remove it.

An alternative technique is to entirely cover the windows with some type of plastic film and tape it on. People typically use a clear plastic film. We avoid doing this because the high winds can very easily tear the film at the time you need it most.

We do this stage while waiting in line at the entrance gate. Be sure to have a ladder or tough bin you can stand on to reach all the windows.

Outside Vents and Seams. Once on the playa, if your RV expands, tape up any seams around the pop outs after you are fully extended. Here’s where extra wide painters tape (4”) works great.

Finally, cover any vent holes that aren’t used during your Burn, being careful not to obstruct any working vents. A note on roof AC vents. We used to use a hammock filter on our outside AC vents. In normal conditions, these can be used to keep dust out of AC vents, and will permit airflow so can be in place while AC is running. Problem is, we have never gotten them to stay in place long in the high winds in the playa. So we gave up. We’ve seen very few people with these in place so our advice is to skip this step.

Inside Windows. You will want to cover all of the inside of your windows with insulated bubble wrap like this Reflectix product. Cover every inch of window on the inside, and tape it down. It makes a huge difference.

Some people swear by also using Reflectix on the roof of the RV. This will absolutely reduce the temperature of your RV. But you must be sure to affix the wrap so it won’t blow off. And we have seen many examples of well taped materials blowing away. If you are going to go this route, consider supplementing an excellent taping job with some 20 lb weights or the like to ensure that the material stays in place during a dust storm.

Finally, cover all the chairs and couches. We use a combination of fitted bed sheets taped or clipped in place and Press n’ Seal cling film. A little experimentation will tell you which works best where. Press n’ Seal will work on the dash board and other surfaces you won’t be using and want to keep clean.

Keeping Your RV Clean

Get an old stained rug….. people will sell these for next to nothing or give them away. 6x6 feet is big enough, but larger works too. Put this in front of your RV, and either weigh it down or use lag bolts to screw it to the playa. Place a non-shedding door mat on the carpet right when you walk in to the RV, so you can scrape your shoes. (Don’t use a mat with small fibers - they will shed, and leave you a heck of a cleanup job…hard learned life lesson). Have a bucket at the door so you can immediately remove your shoes on the steps of the RV, and place them in the bucket. Consider also hanging a sheet from the ceiling over the inside of your RV door creating an “air lock” entrance which will reduce dust blowing into the RV. We’ve moved away from doing this, as we haven’t found it necessary if you just open and close the RV door quickly (in all conditions!). But if you are more casual about getting in and out, this approach will help reduce dust blowing in.

This setup significantly reduces any dust you will track in on your feet. But your clothes may also be covered in dust, so consider having clean clothes available to change into. Our RV also has a chair right when you walk in, which we cover in a sheet that is changed several times during the Burn - it’s the place we sit when we are dusty but don’t want to change our clothes immediately.

A few times during the Burn we will do a good cleaning of the RV, dusting surfaces, and removing the paper from the floor, cleaning the floor and putting down new paper.

We use a high quality broom to sweep out the RV, which we have found to be more effective than using a portable vacuum. We also have an electric leaf blower and small air compressor, which with practice can be used to move dust around… it takes some skill to move it where you want to move it, so proceed with caution and avoid just creating a huge dust cloud. The leaf blower is really reserved for blowing out external storage areas, and blowing dust out of the engine compartment of the RV before driving home.

We keep a sheet over our bed when we aren’t sleeping in it, and carefully fold it up before getting into bed to catch any dust that has settled during the day. We usually change the bed twice at the burn.

We keep our dirty clothing in clear plastic trash bags, to contain the dust, and often remove and put on really dusty clothing outside the RV in our external storage compartments.

All these efforts combine to our RV being quite clean upon our return home.

Cleaning Up After

Once we leave the playa we pull over and remove all the external tape, so it doesn’t blow off on the drive home. We stop at the guy with the pressure sprayer in Cedarville. Gerlach has a wash as well that benefits the community. In Cedarville, we like to just do it ourselves rather than risk him damaging the glass or molding, and he’s more than happy to take a break while we do it. It’s cheap….something like $15. It’s not a perfect cleaning, just getting enough dust off the RV so when we get home we can wash it well without leaving a layer of mud on the street.

Once home we slowly and carefully remove all the sheets and cling film covering the furniture in the RV, as well as stripping the bed. We then carefully roll up the paper off the floor and dispose of it. This effectively removes almost all the dust in the RV.

We then use our air compressor to blow dust out of all the crevices.

Next, we wipe all surfaces down. If they are fairly dusty, we start with wiping everything down with a dry huck towel (the brand in the link is our favorite by far). Next we wipe with a dry microfiber cloth. By getting almost all of the dust off before any water is used, you make the final sponge cleaning very simple…no muddy smears.

We use a 50-50 mix of water and white vinegar to wipe down all the other surfaces and to do a final cleaning of the floor, cleaning our sponges regularly. The entire cleaning process typically takes around 2 hours on the interior. We pressure wash the outside, which adds another hour to do it well. Three hours of cleaning and the RV looks close to perfect.

Note: Renting, borrowing or buying a large air compressor is a great way to clean all of your burner gear. Our bikes look almost new every year after spending an hour with the air compressor and an oil bath for the chain. Be careful not to blow dust into bearings, etc., just work the non-lubricated areas. A leaf blower is great for a first pass, and between the two you will be shocked how clean you can get all your gear.

Some people recommend going to a laundromat to clean clothing, but we have never had a problem washing in our own machine. Your mileage may vary! We generally do small loads of all machine washable stuff, and then re-wash a second time with standard size loads. Wiping down the machine and then re-washing my white socks using white vinegar leaves the washing machine spotless and the socks surprisingly white.

Other resources.

The official Burning Man RV page

Good pointers for an RV at Burning Man

u/Leisureguy · 9 pointsr/wicked_edge

I highly recommend switching to a DE razor with a true lather rather than canned foam. If you are in the US, Maggard Razors is a good source. I recommend this 22mm brush and either their V2 open-comb head or their V3 bar-guard head. I find the V2OC to be somewhat more comfortable and more efficient than the V3, but either will work well.

Read this post on blades and get a blade sampler pack. I recommend trying 3-4 brands of blades (trying them in alphabetic order is as good a way as any) and then sticking with the best of those for two months so you can master technique without being distracted by blade variability. Then once a month try one blade of a new brand. If it's better, switch to that as your regular brand; if it's not, then stick with your old regular brand. Then a month later try a blade of another new brand and make the same decision. After a year, you might return to the early rejects: with improved technique, they may turn out to be good after all. This method ensures that most of the time you shave with a brand that is good for you, and that you compare just two brands at a time: your regular brand and the new brand you just tried.

I find that my best pre-shave has been to use a high-glycerin soap to wash my stubble at the sink following a shower. I rinse partially with a splash and then apply lather to my wet, somewhat soapy stubble. Here are some reasons that it might work for you. Some good soaps for this: Musgo Real Glyce Lime Oil soap (MR GLO), or Whole Foods 365 brand glycerin soap, or Dr. Bronner's bar soap, or Clearly Natural glycerin soap. Some shaving vendors also offer a high-glycerin pre-shave soap—-for example, this RazoRock pre-shave soap is available from several vendors.

Yes, it is vital to know the direction of your beard's growth. You can use this interactive diagram to map the grain.

For acne, I recommend:

a. Check the ingredients in your shaving products and know which to avoid—menthol, for example, is not a good idea. Until your acne's in remission, you can favor unscented shaving creams and soaps, though some fragrance is probably not going to cause problems.

b. Use a high-glycerin soap such as Whole Foods 365 glycerin soap with vitamin E (that's one of several glycerin soaps they offer), $2/bar, as a pre-shave beard wash. Wash beard at the sink using your hands, then rinse partially with a splash and apply lather.

c. Rinse razor head in high-proof rubbing alcohol before and after each shave.

d. After the final rinse ending the shave, glide a dry alum block over your wet skin, then set block aside and clean up around the sink, put stuff away, etc., with the alum on your face. After a minute or two, rinse the alum off, dry, and do your usual aftershave. This step is particularly helpful: alum is a mild antiseptic. You may need to wet the block in colder climes during the winter, when indoor relatively humidity plummets. Since a few men have skin sensitive to alum (their skin turns red and hot for a few minutes after they use it), you may want to test the block on the crease of your elbow joint: wet block, rub it gently on the skin there, and wait 10 minutes. If you have no reaction, use it as advised. (Alum also makes a great styptic if you get a cut: for that use, wet a corner of the block and press it firmly against the cut or nick for 20-40 seconds.)

e. Use a fresh towel for every shave. You can buy thin, 100% cotton, lint-free towels called "barber towels" or "bar towels" for under $20/dozen. They're easy to launder and a fresh one for each shave helps a lot. Here's an example. You can also use surgical towels, like these. Also, these towels from Ikea are said to be good. A wet towel is a microbe incubator. I will add that I have found that using a special towel for the shave adds a pleasant note to the experience: I do not suffer from acne, but even so I use a barber towel when I shave, just for the enjoyment.

f. Shave daily. Use very light pressure Think of your skin as being badly sunburned and the razor is an uncomfortably hot bar, but the razor still must touch the skin—but barely. That kind of light pressure. Daily shaving probably helps by being exfoliating and by the daily alum block and good aftershave—try one of the Thayers witch hazels with aloe vera or one of the witch-hazel-based aftershaves by ProspectorCo.com or StirlingSoap.com. Since the shave itself is exfoliating, I suggest restricting exfoliating scrubs to the forehead and nose and not use them where you shave—this is to minimize skin damage.

g. Buy a bunch of pillowcases from a hotel supply house and use a fresh pillowcase every night.

h. If you have choices on how you eat, try observing this diet (but without the dairy) for a month and see what happens. It works for some. Here's another description of the same diet. And here's the reason the diet is recommended.

When you start, take care to avoid the four most common mistakes cartridge shavers make when switching to a DE razor.

Hope this helps. Welcome.

u/thisonewillsurelybef · 3 pointsr/ft86

Let's start by saying car covers are a pain in the ass for daily use, the car has to be perfectly clean to prevent it from scratching and it just doesn't work that way unless the car is washed every couple of days.

Instead I'd just wash 1 or 2 times a week, and get a gallon-size of Meguiar's spray wax and Last Touch, because you know you'll be in a constant battle against certain elements, might as well stock up (and you save like 50% just buying in bulk this way). In fact I recommend checking out their entire detailer line because you're going to go through a lot of soaps, waxes, etc. Their gallon of shampoo plus for $20 is a great start. And you can find deals like 3-packs of their supreme shine towels for $6 as an amazon add-on item if you're a prime customer.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D11101-Shampoo-Plus-Gallon/dp/B000EZICII

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457672&sr=1-1&keywords=meguiar%27s+microfiber+mitt

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15601-Synthetic-X-Press-Spray/dp/B005JPJMI2

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D15501-Touch-Spray-Detailer/dp/B0006SH4NC/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485453717&sr=1-1&keywords=last+touch

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-D12001-Glass-Cleaner-Concentrate/dp/B0006SH4KU/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485457691&sr=1-4&keywords=meguiar%27s+glass+cleaner

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Cloths/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1485455013&sr=1-2&keywords=supreme+shine

I just buy all their gallon sized stuff and then reuse my old bottles of spray wax, detailers spray, glass cleaner, wheel bottles, etc. Saves me lots of money, like the difference between $100 now or a couple hundred by next year. For instance their gallon size of glass cleaner is probably enough to set you straight on that for a few years, dilutes 10-1 with distilled water. That's 10 gallons of glass cleaner, put that in an old windex bottle and never run out!

Also the Chemical Guy's bucket kit https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-ACC_101-Detailing-Bucket/dp/B001U522GO was a pretty amazing deal and necessary if you're going to use coin-wash bays. However the mitt included is a bit rough, so instead I use a meguiar's microfiber mitt as its the softest I've found so far. The paint on this car is very soft so it's important to use the softest products possible on the paint.

An Invisible Glass Reach and Clean tool has worked out great for cleaning the interior glass and keeping it from fogging up. Great item to have. https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Reach-Clean-95161/dp/B0017K69MA

And a bird poop tip, keep a plastic container with microfibers, a bottle of water, and a bottle of last touch / spray wax mix in the trunk or behind passenger seat. If a bird hits the car, just soak microfiber with water, apply for 30 seconds, and then clean with the detailer spray / spray wax.

To prevent corrosion, you're going to want to clean deep into the wheel wells and stuff with dedicated brushes and mitts, and then use an anti corrosion product (I ordered some ACF-50 spray recently, getting it in the mail today probably) https://www.amazon.com/Lear-Chemical-ACF50-Anti-Corrosion-Lubricant/dp/B000P1C8UO . You're going to want to check crevices for salt buildup, it can happen on some of the window trim parts, so it might be necessary to remove them and clean them out if it starts to rust underneath. You might want to use dabs of silicone stuff to prevent water and salt from corroding these spots. There are a few posts about corrosion of FT86club forums so read up on them. Also your cabin air filter, leaves and bugs like to get in your cabin air filter and make things nasty. You can easily check / service this yourself, its behind the glove box.


For maintenance, I would NOT go past 5000 miles on an oil change, and be choosy where you take your oil changes. The car likes running on fresh oil period. Buy a 5 pack of oem oil filters and oem crush washers to keep yourself straight for awhile, saves money and time. Or also a fumoto oil valve can save even more effort, as a DIY'er it made my oil changes the easiest thing to do. Check your tire pressure constantly, because a decrease in pressure will make the car drive like crap and will wear your tires out quickly.

Your 60k mile maintenance or therabouts is an important interval. Needs stuff done like spark plug changes, and probably checking the clutch throwout bearing to see if it has become worn. These are expensive and labor intensive, expect a $1000 bill.

u/The_Evil_Potatoe · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Here's my opinion

Shampoo- good choice, make sure you're using a washing mitt and not any kitchen sponge, something like http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903374&sr=8-1&keywords=washing+mitt will be fine

Towel- while you can dry with any microfiber towel, it will be best to use one specifically made for drying so you don't have to wring out the towel after every wipe. Also, using a low quality microfiber has the possibility of scratching the paint. My recommendation would be http://www.theragcompany.com/Dry-Me-A-River-26-x-59-Premium-Microfiber-Waffle-Weave-Towel-42009-2659-OW.htm

Wax- I have no idea how much you want to spend, but if you're going to be applying it by hand you generally want to go with a carnuba wax as they are easier to apply and wipe off. My personal favorite is pinnacle souveran liquid wax. Probably out of the price range for a beginner, but it's super easy to apply/wipe off, and it produces amazing results and lasts a lot longer than other carnuba waxes. http://www.autogeek.net/pinliqsouvwa.html If you want something on the cheaper end and can be purchased in auto stores, go with Meguiar's gold class liquid wax. http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7016-Carnauba-Premium-Liquid/dp/B0002UNOYM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405903940&sr=8-2&keywords=gold+class+wax

Applicators- If you're applying wax, go with a foam applicator pad like these lake country applicator pads(make sure they're the red color) with this palm grip

Headlights- If you have a power drill, I recommend this http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G3000-Heavy-Headlight-Restoration/dp/B004HCOE72/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405904455&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+headlight kit as it attaches right to the drill and works very well.

u/xMico1236 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

It's just the towels are too thin. ONR is perfectly safe even if your paint is heavily soiled, but you're spraying the car down before hand knocking off any loose debris so that's a plus. I'd rather use the towels that I bought from Walmart than the ones they sell on Amazon for cheap. Basically the Amazon microfibers are throwaway towels, used for interior, engine bay, and wheels. However I do use them to do spot paint correction. Things like putting some compound and getting rid of the scratches behind the door handle, using Meguiar's ScratchX and getting rid of minor scratches. I suggest getting the Eagle Edgeless from The Rag Company, in my opinion they're the best (even though I don't have them). I have the Creature Edgeless ones and they work just as great. Or if you're on a budget get these, I'm not sure what the equivalent name for these towels are on The Rag Company website, but they should be good too. Also I recommend getting a Nanoskin Sponge or you can get the mitt too. It's a clay alternative and lasts forever (make sure you don't let it face down or in the sun, my friend left his in the sun and it melted).

Edit: I just re-read your post and you know what's funny? I actually just cleaned the same exact car as yours today, but it was black!

u/oc412 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

This a a copy reply to a post from yesterday with pretty much the same question. This should help. YouTube the "Garry Dean Wash method" and do it that way.
___
Look into towels from The rag Company the [Eagle Edgeless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B00GXRG64I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465578999&sr=8-1&keywords=rag+company) , [platinum pluffle] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-Detailing/dp/B01691FHKQ/ref=pd_sim_263_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51ZnYnkDerL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=T72HWKSGJSNY28KCRR5N) and the [creature edgless] (https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Dual-Pile-Microfiber/dp/B01CW21D9U/ref=pd_sim_263_23?ie=UTF8&dpID=61mdEodibyL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=4930TCHKYCSNPB5QDMAF) are my favorite. They are just better quality then CG towels and are perfect for using the "Garry Dean" wash method which is good for apartment dwellers.

EDIT: Also look into [WolfGang Uber] (https://www.amazon.com/Wolfgang-WG-3700-Uber-Rinse-less/dp/B017KSJ5ZK/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465579171&sr=1-1&keywords=wolfgang+uber) rinseless wash. Its more costlier but WELL WORTH it to me. I just got a gallon of it from their website. I use it for my business on some customers vehicles and they notice when I do. Its by far my favorite rinseless out there that I have used. I have tried numerous different ones. [ONRWW] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GG9FB8U/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=sr-1&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) is good, don't get me wrong but I've had it streak and [ONR] (https://www.amazon.com/Optimum-NR2010Q-Rinse-Wash-Shine/dp/B00D8DR0AO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465708329&sr=8-2&keywords=optimum+no+rinse+wash+%26+wax) stains my wash media. I've never had a single issue with WG Uber and it smells like cherry candy. I feel like drinking the bottle every time I use it which makes it great to work with.

u/TheRagCompany · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

The Costco ones are perfectly suitable for general use, They're about 350-360 GSM and as far as "cheap" towels go, they're a better bang for your buck than many others out there. That said, they're 80/20 blend, not 70/30. (I'm not sure where you saw 70/30? But unless they did some major tweaks recently, they're 80/20 like they've always been)

Those CG towels are extremely popular because of their price-point. They're 70/30 which puts them a notch above the Costco towels, but they're pretty much same GSM.

Our Spectrum towels are 70/30 blend and 420 GSM, which is why you see them costing a little more than the other two. (Not sure what you mean by small, though-- They're 16" x 16" just like the Costco towels)

If you want something from TRC more comparable in spec to your other choices, I'd steer you towards the Edgeless 365. It's 365 GSM as the name implies, with a 70/30 blend and an ultrasonic-cut border. (Which gives it the edge for detailing purposes-- Pun intended)

If you're looking for something cheaper, we also do Edgeless 300's and Edgeless 245's. But I find detailers tend to like the 365's best as an all-around useful towel.

Anyway, I'm sure any of these will suit your needs, I just wanted to make sure to weigh-in! :P

u/radroachbrz · 1 pointr/cars

Cleaning tips!

Here's a great starter kit ($25) for washing / polishing / waxing your car's paint: Amazon link - everything you need except a hose, bucket, and wash mitt.

Keep all windows clean. Keep your wipers clean (yes you have to clean them too). Stoners Invisible Glass and Rain-X on all windows.

Separate all towels. Don't mix your wax towels with your glass towels with your interior towels. You can get some in different colors to help separate them. You need to own a lot of good microfiber towels and separate and label them, keep them clean and dry. Recommend stocking up on Meguiar's Supreme Shine towels: Amazon link You want your towels to contain 17-30% polyamide (nylon), and the rest polyester. Polyamide is what give microfiber it's soft feel and absorbency.

Cabin air filter, change it every 15k-20k miles. These are what your air conditioning is filtered through and it gets dirty. So replace this and you'll have cleaner cabin air!

Vaccum the inside of the car on a regular weekly basis. Dyson DC34 handheld vaccum is the best thing ever: Amazon link Also some oxy-clean car fabric/upholstry cleaner works great for cleaning the car seats once a year- just make sure you dry it and run the A/C.

If you need more info head over to /r/autodetailing

u/Kailand09 · 1 pointr/cars

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

  1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)

    https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit

  5. Applicator pads

    https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator

  6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)

    https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel


  7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.

    https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt

  8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)

    https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011




    Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:

    https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard

    It fits in a home depot bucket.

    If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:

    https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator

    WARNING **

    When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.

    Steps for this process:

  9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.

    1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!

  10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.

  11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.

  12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.

  13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.

  14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.

  15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?

  16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.

  17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.

  18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.
u/jkxs · 3 pointsr/SubaruForester

I apologize in advance for this long post. None of these are "must gets", but they are what I got for my 2016 Premium forester. I'm posting this for my own future reference as well as to help some people who are wondering what accessories might be good for their new forester. I highly recommend ordering from Jackie from Annapolis Subaru @ 443-837-1422 as she can get you some good prices on the subaru accessories as well as WeatherTech products! I saved on WeatherTech shipping costs (~$20) by ordering through Jackie and the warranty is the same as if I had bought them through their website.

Please note that some of these accessory links are for my specific car year, model and configuration. I have a 2016 Premium forester without eyesight (affects the Covercraft/heatshield sunshade - they also have eyesight compatible sunshades!).

Also, I personally didn't get my windows tinted, but I think that is something that you should seriously consider doing :)

Speaker kit

Tweeter kit


WeatherTech DigitalFit floorliner (1st & 2nd row)



WeatherTech cargo/trunk liner (without bumper protector)


Weather Tech TechCare floorliner and floormat Cleaner/Protector Kit

Gorilla mud flaps

Covercraft's UVS100 sunscreen - use promo code FREESHIP

Exterior Auto Dimming Mirror w/ Approach Lighting

Luggage Compartment Cover (manual rear gate)

Rear bumper cover

Auto-Dimming Mirror with Compass and HomeLink

Rear Seat Back Protector

Two Home Depot 5 gallon homer bucket

Heatshield sunshade (driver/passenger, second row, rear windshield, sunroof) - note that their website only shows only one side window (driver/passenger), you need to call in to ask them to add the second row side window ones - on my invoice it says part #1425S-A and #1425S-B

Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Viair 77P Portable Compressor Kit (check eBay to see if priced cheaper)

Amazon stuff:

EZ Pass Holder for VA Flex

Aux cable

Stickershield (parking stickers, etc)

Dropstop seat gap filler (driver/passenger side)

Door panel removal kit (for speaker kit install)

Two grit guards

Microfiber Drying towel

Microfiber cloths (3 pack)

Car wash shampoo

Wheel brush

Resqme (window breaker/seatbelt cutter)

Wheel cleaner

Microfiber wash mitt

Reindeer costume for Christmas

Headrest coat hanger

Road reflective triangles

Duct tape

Odor eliminator

Tire air pressure gauge

OBDII Scanner (Bluetooth)

First aid kit

u/terroristteddy · 5 pointsr/cars

You can't clear up a solid 2-4 hours to clean your car?

Honestly, some good car soap/shampoo, a bucket/grit gaurd, some good wax, and few cans of engine degreaser should be all you need to look pretty good.

I'd recommend this, this, and these to get started.

After you get the engine clean, and the outside cleaned and waxed, just vacuum out the inside and clean up any dust, grit, or dirt you might see. This should all take about 4 hours if you take your time.

u/helicopterrun · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

First off. I totally know your feeling and it sucks. Most likely you did not ruin your paint. I would go to a real detail shop in your area and ask for a single stage polish and sealant (or ceramic coat if you can afford it) . Then hand wash or touchless from now on. Then get yourself some Optimum No Rinse and some microfiber towels from The rag company (on amazon). Happy to help with some other tips if needed but there are many great youtube videos. Good luck, it's not ruined!

u/tjasko · 7 pointsr/GolfGTI

Here's all the stuff I use :)

u/Juicysteak117 · 3 pointsr/wicked_edge

Short answer, yes, use an alum block. Long answer, here's a copy/paste from one of /u/Leisureguy's many posts; it answers your questions pretty well:

>For acne, I recommend:

>a. Use a high-glycerin soap such as Whole Foods 365 glycerin soap with vitamin E (that's one of several glycerin soaps they offer), $2/bar, as a pre-shave beard wash. Wash beard at the sink using your hands, then rinse partially with a splash and apply lather.

>b. Rinse razor head in high-proof rubbing alcohol before and after each shave.

>c. After the final rinse ending the shave, glide a dry alum block over your wet skin, then set block aside and clean up around the sink, put stuff away, etc., with the alum on your beard. After a minute or two, rinse the alum off, dry, and do your usual aftershave. This step is particularly helpful: alum is a mild antiseptic.

>d. Use a fresh towel for every shave. You can buy thin, 100% cotton, lint-free towels called "barber towels" or "bar towels" for under $20/dozen. They're easy to launder and a fresh one for each shave helps a lot. Here's an example. You can also use surgical towels, like these. A wet towel is a microbe incubator.

>e. Buy a bunch of pillowcases from a hotel supply house and use a fresh pillowcase every night.

u/chriskmee · 2 pointsr/subaru

The first thing I would try is this:

Meguiar's Ultimate Compound

Meguiar's X3070 Soft Foam 4" Applicator Pads

Meguiar's X2020 Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels

All 3 of those together is under $20 (need to spend $25 since one is an add on item). This stuff is amazing for scratches and paint in general. While it won't make your car showroom ready, it will make it look much better and is totally worth the $20.

Essentially what you do is first make sure the area is clean, then apply the compound to the pad and rub the compound on your car using circular motions. After you do that for a minute or two, use the towel to remove the compound form the car.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/AskReddit

If you can find original chamoise, you'll have it for life. It's worth it. I got a couple Shamwows from my nephew, they're strictly for blotting, not cleaning or scrubbing, which is ridiculous. Mine are falling apart.

>History[edit] The term chamois as used to refer to specially-prepared leather originated sometime before 1709,[4] referring to the prepared skin of any goat-like animal,[5] specifically the European Antelope — commonly called the "chamois" — and exclusively used by the glovemaking industry of southwest France. It was discovered that when tanned in the local cod oil of nearby Biarritz, the result was a material of unprecedented absorbency. This leather was fashioned into soft white gloves designed for carriage footmen, who were responsible for the care and polishing of carriages. This industry usage later transferred to the chauffeurs of the "horseless carriages" invented in the early 1900s. The popularity of chamois leather greatly increased with the advent of mass-produced automobile windshields, which needed to be washed frequently for visibility purposes, but were inconvenient and time-consuming to dry through alternative means.[6]

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamois_leather

So if you're ever at a yard sale and see some, buy them. They're like cast iron skillets, passed down through the family.

*Forgot one thing, real chamois are stored wet and work best when wet. Weird, I know. And WOW, they are a lot le$$ than I expected.

http://www.amazon.com/Detailers-Choice-10X02500-Genuine-Leather/dp/B000EFCPOK/ref=pd_sbs_auto_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=04HH1ZPS76N6EQF8PJAP

u/b0ltzmann138e-23 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Newbie here

Someone please recommend an inexpensive and easy to apply sealer. Preferable one available on amazon.

Also - are there any instructional videos on using Nanoskin sponge?

EDIT:
My thoughts were to wash with 2 bucket method, clean up the paint using the nanoskin sponge and then seal it in to give it protection for the coming summer months.

Would any of these work as a sealer? Which one is the best in giving me long term protection? Easiest to apply?
Also - can I use these towels ? Or are they a bad idea?

Meguiar's M21 Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealant 2.0

Meguiar's M20 Mirror Glaze Polymer Sealant

Meguiars G18216 Ultimate Liquid Wax

u/YukinoRyu · 1 pointr/Fude

i dont cut my crease very often but i usually do that with a more precise set of tools like an angle brush for the cut and a pencil brush to blend out the cut. when i say crease work, i mean i load up the "slopes" of the tip and stuff it in the crease to define it more, moving it from side to side in the orbital socket, then use circular motions to blend/diffuse the color. with round blending brushes or fatter ones i dont trust them to do the applying a defining color part and just use them to blow out product to my liking.

i find that softness doesnt affect laydown. denseness and hair texture does. i've never played with the stila window palettes, but I use mac which everyone likes to cry about how hard pressed they are so it guess its equivalent? I just tap my brush several times in the pan and roll the brush around to coat it if i find that i want more product.

i do use the Z-8 for powder! it's meant to be a bigger cheek brush, and is about one finger width (for me) smaller than the k002. s105 is actually really skinny if you keep it compressed in a guard or when you first get it out of the package (like most brushes haha). im actually kind of annoyed that the Z-8 is smaller but more expensive, so it's less "worth it" for the money.... but its prettier :/ here's chart on the specs of it 1

i dont even own a alcohol based cleaner and i dont think i would use one ever :/ i switch and wipe down i use these which are cheap as shit but massive so i cut them down to half of a face towel size and hem the edges. for cleaning my brushes i use a diluted kind-of-expensive gel face wash that i dont really use anymore since i found a better one, but I couldnt be bothered to get rid of it and would feel guilty throwing out. it was fine for my face, imo non stripping, so i watered it down to reduce lather but still foam up a bit (i like bubbles as an indicator) and use it to clean my brushes because it removed even foundation well. its the philosophy purity gel cleanser. lots of people use baby shampoo. i've heard the beauty blender solid is fantastic but i've never used it

u/MrTissues · 2 pointsr/ft86

Oh wow thats great. I had no idea it was that strong. I will probably plastidip my wheels a matte black color to go with my white BRZ. Should look good!

Never use a bristle brush on my wheels, just a microfiber mitt.

u/PenFifteen1 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Looks like they make them in blue as well, but this is what I referring to: https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Diamond-Professional-Microfiber/dp/B07GWXQSPZ/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=the+rag+company+glass&qid=1573575387&sr=8-11

Honestly, not 100% sold on these as the low pile side of the creature seems to do a pretty good job on glass as well. They're not super expensive, so you're not out a bunch of money if you don't like them.

u/trollster4 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Your list looks good, but is lacking a few item IMO:

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396913798&sr=1-1&keywords=microfiber+wash+mitt The mitt you listed should be fine, but I use these. I have 3 of them and it's good to have more than one lying around in case one gets too dirty during the wash. I like to use a different one for the bottom of my car anyway.

I'd get at least one more pack of those Chemical Guys microfiber towels. The more the better.

I use Sonax Full Effect Wheel Cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/Sonax-230200-755-Wheel-Cleaner/dp/B003UT3S6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914006&sr=1-1&keywords=sonax+full+effect+wheel+cleaner It's a bit pricey but it's very effective at removing brake dust.

For applying the wax, you'll need an applicator pad http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3070-Soft-Foam-Applicator/dp/B0009IQZPW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396914054&sr=1-1&keywords=foam+applicator+pad

u/rooklv · 1 pointr/Bowling

I use these:

​

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZN6Q6K/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_2nQKDbBK6P703


Straight up deer skin chamois the use in auto detailing. Pulls the oil off the ball, effective against belt marks, cheap, washable. My ball always feels like it's been just cleaned after I use it. Biggest complaint is that the natural color shows dirt super easy and you need to wash them first. But other than that? They have beat the pants off anything else I've used. Which, admittedly, is not EVERYTHING. But the storm shammy and various towels don't even hold a candle to what these do.

u/anotherDocObVious · 1 pointr/ipad

> clean the smudges and lines on the screen

Not sure if you ever got an answer, but I use this for my mobile and tablet:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Microfiber-Lens-Cleaning-Cloth/dp/B004PHD2YU/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2

I also find these to AMAZING at cleaning up the gunk easily: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IQZH0/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_ST1_dp_2

u/a1gern0n · 2 pointsr/wicked_edge

Surgical/ hospital towels are a similar good option (lint free, 100% cotton, and come in a lovely blue!) that can be found for even cheaper. Amazon link here.

u/Shandlar · 40 pointsr/Damnthatsinteresting

It's a fiberglass cloth painted with epoxy that the cloth is semi-soluble in.

So it essentially dissolves the cloth. This lets you put the cloth down in place first, without needing to apply the epoxy down to the wood first and try to lay the fiberglass on top of it. Air bubbles and rippling for sure over a rounded surface like that.

Instead you just apply to the outside liberally, the clothe lets the epoxy through and soak into the wood ~1.5mm or so, while adding far more strength and sealing to the final coating than just a layer of epoxy would provide. Way way way more.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-499-Fiberglass-Cloth/dp/B000BQSKQY

Something like this, there are all sorts of shapes, sizes, thicknesses, and epoxies you can pair with different clothes to get thicker/thinner coats, opaqueness, toughness, etc. It makes patching jobs so much easier.

u/whoizaghost · 2 pointsr/CX5

okay so like the comment below 303 is simple and easy. I don"t use it much as its not readily available here in Toronto.

Things i do use:

For the dash board and any plastic inside the car i use:

https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05324-Protectant-24-oz/dp/B0007RDVGG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704916&sr=8-1&keywords=mothers+interior

OR

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G13616-Interior-Detailer-Cleaner/dp/B000AMLWH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705281&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars%2Binterior%2Bcleaner&th=1

For the carpets i do 2 thing when i am in a hurry ill use:

https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Wax-50572-Rubber-Cleaner/dp/B00PKE6NNY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1487704985&sr=8-12&keywords=turtle+wax+interior+cleaner

Just spray some on the carpet and after a quick vacuum then do a good vacuum job this can take like 30 mins once you get the hang of it.

when i have time i use:

https://www.amazon.com/BISSELL-1400B-Multi-Purpose-Portable-Cleaner/dp/B0016HF5GK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705069&sr=8-2&keywords=bissell+little+green

The second method is simple just follow the instructions it came with and this item usually goes on sale there are better ones that keep the water heated.

They also both give the car a nice smell after cleaning i don't have leather seats so i can say much about it.

as for windows there 2 steps i do as well:

I use

https://www.amazon.com/Invisible-Glass-Premium-Cleaner-91164/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705440&sr=8-2&keywords=invisible+glass

Then polish the exterior and where is no tint with

https://www.amazon.com/3M-800002242-RAIN-X-WINDSHIELD-TREATMENT-3-5/dp/B000WNED08/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705503&sr=8-13&keywords=rain+x+glass+cleaner

The second step is a bit tedious so if you are not comfortable stick with step 1.

The thing that also really good to have is good clothes for cleaning the more the better Micro fibre cloth's are the best.

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-POLISHING/dp/B0166U4PVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705636&sr=8-1&keywords=micro+fiber+rag+company

and for glass:

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Microfiber-Professional-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00WC5KQGE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1487705755&sr=8-5&keywords=rag+company+glass

After wiping the class with step one and then its dry i usually just follow up with a dry microfiber cloth to pick up any little dirt i left behind.

If i left anything behind let me know ill make a full post once summer comes around with maybe a video of sorts but there is alot of information also to r/autodetailing wiki post and sorry for the format if its not up to standards this is my first long post.

u/SolipsisticSnowflake · 9 pointsr/motorcycles

I hose my bike down, then I use some nice clean soapy mitts from a bucket and get in between all the nooks and spokes, glass, etc. Then I hose it off again, wipe it down with microfiber hand towels and this towel.

I clay bar once a year and wax all the painted and glass surfaces. With my car I use an orbital to apply the wax but I'll wipe it off by hand.

Then I'll take it for a ride to let all the nooks and crannies air dry, but some people use compressed air. I don't use a power washer as I don't want to ruin bearings or any electrical stuff that isnt 101% weatherproof.

u/Pato_Lucas · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Thinking about it I believe I can recommend 4 products:
Pink clay bar, really good for a regular claying.
Blue clay bar, for neglected paint, be aware that you'll need to polish after claying because it will leave swirls.
Chemical guys clay lube, maybe there's better, but this is the best for its cost.
Meguiar's wash mitt, doesn't scratch the paint and it's really affordable.

u/Schmohican · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Do not but the Walmart towels or anything like that. Here's a link to some high quality mf towels you can use without damaging your cars paint: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TORH40E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These towels come in a ten pack and have no seams or edges. They are very thick and do a great job at buffing anything. Can't go wrong.

u/twoww · 5 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I’m not sure if the rag company sells them on amazon as I got them direct from them but their black diamond towel is awesome.

Edit: heres a link

u/JohnBaggata · 3 pointsr/Volvo

Ignore the bit about sponges, get a wash mit like this one, it’s $4 and your clear-coat will thank you. Besides, in the long run it’ll be cheaper to treat your paint gently rather than pay for paint correction.

Edit: I’ve been living with a 2002 S80 T6 for a year now, so if you need any info regarding the P2 Volvos, hit me up :)

u/three_horsemen · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

That might work but I meant don't use a regular microfiber at all. Use at least waffle weaves. Dedicated low-pile glass towels are even better. I've got the ones below:

https://www.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00J8UQAOI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479589630&sr=8-3&keywords=rag+company+window+towel

I spray a light amount of product (Invisible Glass) on on the glass or the cloth, wipe, and then quickly buff off any remaining smudges and moisture with a second, dry glass cloth.

u/hoffman_lens · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I use a sprayer with a rinseless mix plus a bucket with enough mix to saturate the wash mitts. I find these pretty handy for rinseless washing:
https://www.amazon.com/Double-Flip-Microfiber-Rinseless-Towel/dp/B07DJSL2Q3
4 clean sides so you are always washing with a clean side.

u/gameofknowns · 1 pointr/Ultralight

HA! Too true! I said to another poster that I would likely leave the wipes at home, but I tried to suggest things that would maintain OP's comfort level. Napkins just aren't the same as some wipe brands, as the solvents in them offer more cleansing potential and the fibres are meant to hold up when wet.

But seriously, you're totally right, you could save some cash and the hassle and just use a wet napkin. No word of a lie, I saw water-activated wet wipe tablets on Amazon the other day. There's a market for everything apparently!

u/dar512 · 1 pointr/ipad

Plus one on the microfiber. I've got a couple of microfiber terry cloths that do a great job. I got mine free from shell when I filled my tank. But these are similar.

u/schuylercat · 2 pointsr/vinyl

All of the other advice mentioned and: Lint-free cloths. Yes, indeed. If you do a lot of records at once you'll be happy you bought them. Got my from Amazon, this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031B4YU2/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

Note: wash them first before using them. "Lint-free" is an earned name.

u/KenBalbari · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

I just went with the Meguiar's since it was only $6, but haven't really compared to anything else yet. I guess I have been generally happy with other Amazon Basics items.

u/risc_is_good · 56 pointsr/wheredidthesodago

(5-Pack) THE RAG COMPANY 16 in. x 16 in. Premium Window, Glass, Mirror & Chrome Professional Korean 70/30 Microfiber LINT-FREE, STREAK-FREE Detailing Towels

These have been a godsend for me. I clean my glasses every day with one of those cloths and I haven't washed it in 6 months!

u/sundaypie · 2 pointsr/MakeupAddiction

I recently started using the Soap&Glory Peaches and Clean cleanser that is a makeup remover and it's great! It takes off eye makeup as well and it's really fast . It's also only $12 for a huge bottle.

Something that also gets all makeup off is baby oil. Use baby oil and a mircrofiber cloth like this and you will have zero problems taking anything off because the oil breaks down everything. The microfiber cloths are great too no matter what you're using, so you could use just like water and it's help a lot more. The ones I linked say they're for cars but they're just the same as other microfiber cloths, but ones marketed for cars are dirt cheap in stores for big packs.

The only problem with baby oil is you'll have to follow up with another cleanser to get the oil off. If what you're using now works for everything else but the eyes, I'd say to stick to that and use baby oil on just the eyes and rinse it off :)

u/zerimis · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

+1 to all seabie’s suggestions. I used mainly CarPro band equivalents.

I highly prefer The Rag Companies microfiber towels. They’re available on Amazon as well. I used these and found they were better for the cleanup after polishing and the ceramic coating: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166U4PRG

I got the Griots Garage DA polisher. I’d recommend some orange or white pads. My car was white and had little to no visible swirls, so I used white pads with M205.

u/al0105 · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Personally, I would not spend a lot on towels. I highly recommend these plush towels for paint, these waffle weave towels for drying and glass, and these for all-purpose use (engine, wheels, tires, interior, pretty much anywhere that it doesn't really matter). I have all of these towels and can attest to their quality. The first ones I linked, the 500 GSM ones, are sooo thick and plush. People have recommended them to me saying they're nearly identical to the TRC Eagle Edgeless, a highly-recommended towel that costs a lot more. Virtually all microfiber you shop around for is going to be from China, why pay more through a brand that's marking it up? The one thing I can't comment on is durability. Some people say cheaper towels degrade faster. And while these that I've listed are more affordable, I wouldn't call them cheap. They feel and perform as high-quality towels. Just my two cents.

u/hestekinj · 1 pointr/ft86

I went with The Rag Company Professional Edgeless towels in combination with a spray detailer to add a little lubrication while drying. Keep in mind, I'm still new to this, so I'm looking for suggestions as well. I've just read really good things about their microfiber towels.

u/WooWooPete · 2 pointsr/mac

I use automotive glass towels to clean all glass whether that is screens, my glasses, or the coffee table. I recommend these by The Rag Company.

u/flashmanMRP · 1 pointr/DIY

So like this with this and one of these ?!

u/DWells55 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Why's that? I had considered picking up a pair of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RXKR6M

However, I read quite a lot stating that the sponge was actually the superior option for ONR (particularly those Lowe's sponges), so I decided to go with those instead.

u/anstormning · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Hello! I bought a new car a little over a month ago and I wanted to do some basic cleaning with it, stuff that can be done maybe a couple times a month, since I never personally did that with my previous car.

Anyways, I live in SoCal so I'm trying to keep water usage to a minimum. This is my current "to-purchase" list that I'd like to buy soon;

ONR

iK Sprayer

Iron X

TRC Creature Edgeless 10pack

Mother's Tire Brush

ABN Wheel Woolies

Stoner's Reach Tool

Already have: Stoner's Invisible Glass, Costco multipack MF towels.

Will I still want to get a clay bar + wax for after washing, or is just washing every so often enough?

u/rjl_ · 2 pointsr/vinyl

The one thing I'd add is that the supplied towels aren't that great and will get wet fast. Drop like $25 or so and buy a brick of microfiber cloths on Amazon, etc. I got these.

Just be sure to wash them a couple of times, with no fabric softener, and store them in a sealed/clean container.

I then place 4 of them down. I use one to dry the record on (using a dry towel - I have 36 of 'em), and then place the record on one of the other three to further air-dry. After each one, I wipe any air-drying ones with yet another dry cloth (I call it "the finisher") and flip 'em. Once I fill three of my air-drying towels, and all of those records have been flipped and gone over with the "finisher", I pack up the oldest one, and go grab another one off of the stack.

I just continue in that cycle, swapping out my hand-drying towel with the "finisher", and grabbing a new dry "finisher" from my stock of clean ones.

Cleaning 40-ish records I may use 10 towels.

u/orlheadlights · 4 pointsr/AutoDetailing
u/DeadFable · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Lots of 3 inch pads. Few 5 inch pads. The roof plastic strips didn't seem to stain but the window trim and mirror plastics did. Tape those up. For paint not to sure. The fine grade mash mitt didn't scratch or mar the paint so it's not too soft. I used these towels Meguairs Microfibers they never damaged the paint.

u/JoPelligrino · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GXRFOVE

I got them from amazon because I have prime so I got free two day shipping. I love them. I cannot say enough how much the process I described helped me in Windows. I do 5-20 cars a day... No matter what I did I always had issues with windows. Whether streaking, smearing or haze.. . Now it only happens if the rag is dirty

u/Santo_R · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

Are these towels by Meguiar’s any good?. I was planning on getting the 6 pack because of price.
I wanted to use them as drying towels. At the moment I have a set of Eagle Edgeless 500’s and creatures dual pile (the green ones) and use the eagles for drying, but I don’t really want to “ruin” those towels since I always wash them after drying (since I typically use a wax-based drying aid). I just wanted to hear some opinions before making a purchase

u/maelstr0m8 · 1 pointr/CX5

I use these towels (https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Supreme-Shine-Microfiber-Towels/dp/B0009IQZH0/) clean from the laundry without cleaning anything else first and there are tiny swirls and scratches on the piano black trim :( I want to just replace or cover that trim with a matte finish.

u/cf2121 · 3 pointsr/AutoDetailing

Chemical Guys All Clean +

Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss

Meguiar's DUB Wheel Cleaner - can be found over the counter

Wheel Woolies note: I got mine from Ammo but he doesn't have them listed up anymore

The wheel brush my dad found at a garage sale, but here is a similar product: Montana Boar's Hair Brush

Speed Master Jr. Detail Brush

Lug Nut Brush size 10

Foam Gun

Meguiar's Microfiber Wash Mitt

Grit Guard

Optimum No Rinse

Mango Breeze Microfiber

The medium pile microfiber is from Peak microfiber, a brand that is commonly found OTC

Dark Blue Plush Microfiber

Invisible Glass is sold everywhere

Hydrate Paint Moisturizer

u/PresentFault · 1 pointr/AutoDetailing

do the knockdown pass with whatever microfiber, do a follow up buffing pass with a glass specific towel. no product on the second pass. https://smile.amazon.com/RAG-COMPANY-Professional-Microfiber-STREAK-FREE/dp/B00GXRFOVE/

u/Fubs261 · 2 pointsr/AutoDetailing

I used the nanoskin sponge to clay the entire car since the car is pretty new. I let the wax sit for an hour. I've never had much success with 845 even on different cars. I get about maybe 2 weeks MAX. That's on all waxes I have used. I always just wrote it off as my car not being able to be garaged and maybe dirty/mineraly hard water that my city has to use. Also, the way that I'm checking if the wax is still there is by observing how/if the water beads after rinsing and how the paint feels. Most of the time, it's no longer silky smooth and the water doesn't bead in nice circles anymore. The water beads in messy blobs.

 

My process goes:

  1. Foam (let sit 3-5 minutes or until foam falls off)
  2. Rinse
  3. 2 bucket hand wash with gritgaurds panel by panel
  4. Dry and/or nanoskin or clay
  5. Apply wax panel by panel (let sit 1 hour after all panels have wax applied)
  6. Clean windows and interior as I wait for wax
  7. Wipe off wax

    This takes me about 4 hours...

     

    The products I use:

u/anewatrophy · 9 pointsr/AutoDetailing

If you are planning to detail for the long term, I'd suggest investing in some bulk / concentrated products rather than the consumer-grade & Ultimate Meguiar's line.

I've tried to break down the supplies I'd suggest. Of course, don't just throw out your existing supplies. Use them up and then get the concentrates / bulk.

Note: There's no need to get everything in this list. Just get what you need. There's also cheaper alternatives to several of the products, and probably cheaper sites than those in my links. Some of the products I use because I want to support the manufacturer and/or because I trust the manufacturer. Use what you like and use it often. :)

 

Dust, light bug gut, and light bird bomb removal / lube

u/lostnprocrastination · 23 pointsr/wicked_edge

Looks like irritation. This isn't a skin care subreddit, you will have to tell us what your shaving process consists of.

edit- you have probably posted and disappeared like so many do on this sub. I'll leave this really good post that /u/leisureguy made a few days ago that may help your situation out if you don't post again. Good luck to ya.

The only thing I'd change in this list is recommend that you stop shaving for at least a week and let it calm down, and another good brand of Witch Hazel and Aloe is Thayers.

> For acne, I recommend:

> a. Check the ingredients in your shaving products and know which to avoid---menthol, for example, is not a good idea. Until your acne's in remission, favor unscented shaving creams and soaps.

> b. Use a high-glycerin soap such as Whole Foods 365 glycerin soap with vitamin E (that's one of several glycerin soaps they offer), $2/bar, as a pre-shave beard wash. Wash beard at the sink using your hands, then rinse partially with a splash and apply lather.

> c. Rinse razor head in high-proof rubbing alcohol before and after each shave.

> d. After the final rinse ending the shave, glide a dry alum block over your wet skin, then set block aside and clean up around the sink, put stuff away, etc., with the alum on your face. After a minute or two, rinse the alum off, dry, and do your usual aftershave. This step is particularly helpful: alum is a mild antiseptic. You may need to wet the block in colder climes during the winter, when indoor relatively humidity plummets. Since a few men have skin sensitive to alum (their skin turns red and hot for a few minutes after they use it), you may want to test the block on the crease of your elbow joint: wet block, rub it gently on the skin there, and wait 10 minutes. If you have no reaction, use it as advised. (Alum also makes a great styptic if you get a cut: for that use, wet a corner of the block and press it firmly against the cut or nick for 20-40 seconds.)

> e. Use a fresh towel for every shave. You can buy thin, 100% cotton, lint-free towels called "barber towels" or "bar towels" for under $20/dozen. They're easy to launder and a fresh one for each shave helps a lot. Here's an example. You can also use surgical towels, like these. Also, these towels from Ikea are said to be good. A wet towel is a microbe incubator.

> f. Shave daily. Use very light pressure Think of your skin as being badly sunburned and the razor is an uncomfortably hot bar, but the razor still must touch the skin---but barely. That kind of light pressure. Daily shaving probably helps by being exfoliating and by the daily alum block and good aftershave---try one of the Thayers witch hazels with aloe vera or one of the witch-hazel-based aftershaves by ProspectorCo.com or StirlingSoap.com. Since the shave itself is exfoliating, I suggest restricting exfoliating scrubs to the forehead and nose and not use them where you shave---this is to minimize skin damage.

> g. Buy a bunch of pillowcases from a hotel supply house and use a fresh pillowcase every night.

> h. If you have choices on how you eat, try observing this diet (but without the dairy) for a month and see what happens. It works for some. Here's another description of the same diet. And here's the reason the diet is recommended.

u/nobodysawme · 2 pointsr/wicked_edge

What's your prep and post shave like?

a. Check the ingredients in your shaving products and know which to avoid---menthol, for example, is not a good idea. Until your acne's in remission, favor unscented shaving creams and soaps.

b. Use a high-glycerin soap such as Whole Foods 365 glycerin soap with vitamin E (that's one of several glycerin soaps they offer), $2/bar, as a pre-shave beard wash. Wash beard at the sink using your hands, then rinse partially with a splash and apply lather.

c. Rinse razor head in high-proof rubbing alcohol before and after each shave.

d. After the final rinse ending the shave, glide a dry alum block over your wet skin, then set block aside and clean up around the sink, put stuff away, etc., with the alum on your beard. After a minute or two, rinse the alum off, dry, and do your usual aftershave. This step is particularly helpful: alum is a mild antiseptic. You may need to wet the block in colder climes during the winter, when indoor relatively humidity plummets.

e. Use a fresh towel for every shave. You can buy thin, 100% cotton, lint-free towels called "barber towels" or "bar towels" for under $20/dozen. They're easy to launder and a fresh one for each shave helps a lot. Here's an example. You can also use surgical towels, like these. Also, these towels from Ikea are said to be good. A wet towel is a microbe incubator.

f. Shave daily. Use very light pressure---think of your skin as being sore, but the razor still must touch it. That kind of light pressure. Daily shaving probably helps by being exfoliating and by the daily alum block and good aftershave---try one of the Thayers witch hazels with aloe vera or one of the witch-hazel-based aftershaves by ProspectorCo.com or StirlingSoap.com. Even store brand witch hazel will be good. Since the shave itself is exfoliating, I suggest restricting exfoliating scrubs to the forehead and nose and not use them where you shave---this is to minimize skin damage.

g. moisturize. moisturizer will help.

h. Buy a bunch of pillowcases from a hotel supply house and use a fresh pillowcase every night.

i. If you have choices on how you eat, try observing this diet (but without the dairy) for a month and see what happens. It works for some. Here's another description of the same diet.

Read this post on blades so you can see why you will need a sampler pack of blades.

Avoid the four most common mistakes cartridge shavers make when switching to a DE razor.

// this post was a modified version of one leisureguy used to post.