Introduction/Acquisition:

I started my GYW journey w/Wolverine 1K’s and after multiple Red Wings, Danners, and Trumans, I got bit by the Alden bug with my Brown CXL Indy chukkas. I decided to sell off some boots and trim down my rotation a bit more to help scratch that Alden itch. I had a few boots in mind to complement the brown CXL chukkas:

• Dark brown wingtip or tanker boot - pretty set on the B+M Tobacco Reverse Chamois Wingtip
  
• Natural or tan smooth or scotch/alpine grain wingtip or tanker boot (whichever model I didn’t get in the dark brown color)
  
• Snuff suede plain/perforated cap toe or wingtip - this could come later as my Red Wing Hawthorne Muleskinner Blacksmiths sort of filled this color need for now, although admittedly a much more rugged boot.
  
  As Alden yearly price increases are now pushing boots upwards of $600+, I’ve been keeping a close eye on the second hand/used market, since most of the boots above aren’t readily available in my size or are on a 4-6 month preorder wait.
  
  Now I already have Indys so I wanted to avoid getting another Indy model and was actually looking at Alden of Madison’s Choco Suede Tanker which they did have in my size ready to ship. But at $634, I just couldn’t pull the trigger without waiting to see if something would pop up on the B/S/T, eBay, or StyleForum.
  
  To my luck, a pair of the LeatherSoul x Alden Choco Suede Ultimate Indys popped up on eBay in my 10.5D TruBalance size, unworn and new in box. I shot an offer and seller accepted and just received them today.
  
  
  Details:
  
  Maker: Alden
  Model: Indy
  Last: Trubalance
  Leather: "Chocolate" (but probably actually Humus) Brown Suede
  Sole: Commando
  Size: 10.5D
  
  
  Sizing & Fit:
  
  Since my last Alden purchase, I’ve done a bit more reading and first-hand sizing. It appears my feet aren’t as wide as I thought and my Bannock measures 10.5D on my left and right smack dab in the middle of a 10.5/11 D/E width. I’ve mentioned it in my other posts and I’ve posted on the Manufacturer Last Sizing Thread, but a 10.5D Barrie fits me the best while a 10.5D TruBalance is a touch roomier, but not unbearable. These fit a bit better than my Indy chukkas, most likely due to be a full height boot, giving me some more eyelets to lace + tighten up and gives me the flexibility to wear thin to heavy weight socks, though dress socks might be too thin. The suede is also pretty forgiving, though I’m sure a 10D would likely be too snug for my foot.
  
  
  Construction:
  
  
  No complaints. The 360 degree storm welt is clean and the stitching all looks solid. Love the nap of the suede and the slight variation in color based on how the nap is sitting. My chukkas have the Alden commando sole as well and it is quickly becoming my favorite in terms of comfort, grip, and appearances. Much more comfortable than the Dainite my CXL Trumans were on, the full commando my waxed flesh Trumans were on, and the nitrile soles on my Red Wings. Clean and subtle enough to not feel too rugged either for year-round wear.
  
  The chocolate suede has so many different color representations in photos, I was a little worried at what they’d look like in person. Some seemed REALLY deep and rich chocolate, while some bordered on gray. The pictures from the eBay listing made them look almost like tobacco reverse chamois and even shades of snuff that I had seen. I’d say in person, my pair falls right in-between the dark rich brown and the gray, and LeatherSoul’s pictures aren’t TOO far off the actual color in my opinion.
  
  Conclusion:
  
  With these in rotation, these will likely check off my first bullet in my list above, although if someone offered me a trade straight up for the reverse chamois wingtips or an alpine grain tanker, I’d probably oblige (wink, wink). As I’ve handled more Aldens (especially the sleeker lasts), I can’t unsee the more roundedness of the TruBalance last. That said, no matter what, the dark brown boots were going to be most rugged/casual boot in my (future) rotation, so no real complaints. I know I should just start wearing them right away, but I’m about to order some Saphir Suede Renovateur and the Saphir Invulner Waterproofing Spray or Tarrago Nano Spray (Can anyone comment on the differences between the Saphir Invulner vs the Tarrago Nano Spray?) to protect from the Seattle wet weather.

I used to work in a work boot store, so let me give you some tips on boot care.

• I would highly recommend changing out whatever laces your boots come with to leather laces. Leather laces last longer and can be cut to length.
  
  
• If you kneel a lot and the toes of your boots are rubbing on the ground, I'd get Boot Saver Toe Guards. They'll extend the life of your boots a bit further.
  
  
• At the end of the day, wipe whatever is on your boots off. It doesn't have to sparkle, just get the majority of the gunk off.
  
  
• Anywhere from once a week to once every two weeks, wax or oil your boots. I recommend Obenauf's, but any leather wax/oil will do. Huberd's Shoe Grease is a good alternative if you're looking for something cheaper.
  
  
• Alternate between two pairs of boots. Two $100 pairs of boots will (usually) last longer than one $200 pair of boots.
  
  If there was one boot that fit all of your criteria, that company would be the only boot maker in the world. If you're looking for a boot that will work year round, I'd get something with GoreTex for waterproofing and then wear thick wool socks in the winter. Also, get something with a Vibram sole. Those tend to last the longest in my experience. My recommendations are as follows:
  
  
• Danner Vicious 4.5" Plain Toe is a good general purpose boot. It does have a GoreTex liner, a Vibram sole, and tends to be pretty comfortable. If you have wide feet, this does tend to run wider through the ball of the foot. Cons, it has a glued on sole(usually doesn't last as long as stitch-down soles) and a composite shank(doesn't offer as much support as a steel shank). I personally prefer shorter boots, but if you'd like more ankle support, it does come in an 8" version.
  
  
• Georgia's 8" Loggers are styled more like traditional boots. They're great for arch and ankle support if that's more your speed. It does have a non-GoreTex waterproof liner, but Georgia usually does pretty well in that department. Cons, its pretty heavy. Not terribly heavy, but worth mentioning.
  
  Of course, every foot is different, so definitely find a local boot store and try a few options on.

Oh man, I love when people ask stuff like this on Reddit. I bootblack, and have worked on countless leather boots! Frye boots are lovely.

First off, what kind finish do your Melissa Buttons have, or did they have when you got them? For instance, looking at the current line, Antiqued/Polished can take polish, Rugged should not be polished, and Suede will have an entirely different cleaning/care routine from the other two. I'll assume it's closer to the first two for the following.

For any leather that's not suede or nubuck, the first step is cleaning. You can pick up some saddle soap (Kiwi exists in your local drug store or grocery store and is totally fine) or use just about any mild soap - I regularly use diluted Dr. Bronners. You want to create a lather and scrub that into the leather, and then wipe the boot down with a damp, not wet, rag. Be sure to get all the suds off the boot, but don't soak it either. If it's really dirty, feel free to repeat this step!

Then, I would choose a conditioner. I'd actually stay away from an animal-based oil like neatsfoot oil or mink oil, as well as less-stable oils like olive oil, since those could go rancid with too much humidity. I'm a big fan of Obenauf's, which gives good deep conditioning with just a bit of product (seriously, a little goes a long way) and has a pretty neutral scent. Frye actually sells a conditioning cream of their own, which I imagine would also be fine. Pretty much anything with a beeswax base is also good. Apply with your fingers so you can really rub it into the leather - the heat from your hands will help work it in.

Finally, if your boot is the sort that would look better with some shine, I would wait a day or two to let the conditioner soak in and then apply a bit of cream polish - this will give your boots some shine, but it won't be like, patent-leather mirror shiny, which I feel would be the wrong style for Frye boots. Kiwi also sells these, but Meltonian is my go-to. With cream polish, you apply a light coat and then buff the boot with a shoe brush in light, fast strokes. You can use your fingers to apply the polish, but it'll dye your fingertips, so either wear gloves or use a rag or a polish brush. Buff the boot until it's shiny to your liking!

Don't worry too much, it's pretty hard to ruin a good pair of boots while taking care of them. They'll definitely be happier with a bit of TLC!

Holben's for European brands like Colareb, Fluco, Di-modell, Bonetto Cinturini, Eulit, etc. Colareb leather is super soft and comfortable, but lack any kind of splash resistance. Fluco does some really good suede. Di-modell has some great water-resistance leather options. Bonetto Cinturini is one of the most recommended for rubber straps, along with Watchgecko, which actually get their straps made by Bonetto Cinturini. Eulit is the most recommended for perlon.

Some of Hirsch's entry-level models are in your budget.

Barton is a great affordable option and comes with convenient quick-release spring bars.

Panatime has a lot of stuff, but the highlight is probably that they carry RIOS1931, which is a nice german brand.

Cheapestnatostraps is probably the most budget option, but their QC and lack of consistency is kind of iffy in my experience.

watch band center has a huge selection, though I don't really have any experience with them.

Crown and Buckle is pretty popular, though I only have experience with their natos, so I can't really comment on the quality of their leather

Clockwork Synergy is a budget option with quick-release spring bars like Barton. Clockwork Synergy's leather is really soft, but it's also weirdly spongy, which I don't like, though that's more of a personal preference on my part, maybe you'd like it.

B&R bands is mostly out of your budget, but worth a mention for their quality. The only knock against them that I have is their aggressive taper might not suit certain watches.

Etsy is a great place to get custom handmade straps made to your specifications; some of the strapmakers on etsy offer premium leathers like alligator or shell cordovan at cheaper prices than the big box strapmakers.

if you need a spring bar tool, I recommend the Bergeon 6767-F with the fine forked tip. Cheaper spring bar tools with the wider forked tips might not be small enough to remove the bracelet on your Citizen.

At minimum, I would suggest four things: Horsehair brush (as mentioned below), a conditioner, a dauber (to apply the shining agent), and a shining agent (if you want them to shine/polish).

My recommendations on products that I've personally used (which I've used a number of things, but found these to be had at a good price/quality ratio):

1. Kiwi Horsehair brush. I have two of these, one for work and one for home. Love them both.
   
   
2. Lexol leather conditioner. Amazing stuff, I use it on belts, wallets, car seats, and definitely boots and shoes. I bought a liter, but I'm guessing the 8oz bottle will last several years. Strong recommendation for this product.
   
   
3. FootFitter dauber. I didn't use a dauber for a long time but in my opinion, it's much easier to get a consistent coating with a dauber vs an old shirt. Definitely optional on this one.
   
   
4. Saphir neutral wax. Saphir is a company highly touted on /r/GoodyearWelt and many other shoe forums/communities. I have never come across a straight out bad review of anything they make, but have only used their waxes. Much bigger fan of their wax over Kiwi and other generic waxes. It smells great, shines great, and is quite forgiving. I suggest Neutral for all colors except black, in which case I recommend black. Strong recommendation.

do you know when the watch was serviced last? it might need a servicing (which can be quite expensive) before you want to wind it too much.

you wind the crown clockwise (away from you) and its all done by feel. it'll wind freely for quite a few turns, then you will start to feel it get tighter and tighter. when I had a hand winder, I would wind it very gently, using a soft grip of the crown, and eventually I'd "hit a wall" and my fingers would slip off the crown. this is fully wound. it took me like 40 winds to get there. so, now that I knew how many winds it took, I wanted to find out the power reserve. once I knew that, I could fairly accurately predict when I'd "hit the wall" again....I would just stop winding like 5 turns before that and I'd be good.

whatever you do, NEVER give it a wind if you feel resistance. it should be fairly smooth all the way until it's fully wound.

as for the glass, it might by acrylic (plastic) in which case a tube of Polywatch should take out most scratches. you say it's damaged, but unless its chipped or cracked, you still have hope of restoring it for cheap.

I'm no expert on vintage Timex's, but it looks like a Marlin. but then again, all vintage hand winders look like a Marlin to me :)

it looks like it's on a Rally strap (big holes in it) which doesn't fit the watch IMO. I'd throw it on a Croco leather, or just a regular smooth leather strap. I've been happy with clockwork synergy leather straps. the dapper and gentleman collection are great, but the leather is quite thick.....might look weird with the svelt lugs that watch has. but their croco leather is nice from what I've heard and should fit much nicer. you can use code CWSSMR for 10% off too.

Ya gotta be a TOUGH MANLY MAN to make it through NorthEast winters.....

Just kidding, man. It's a great question, actually. This is my experience...

You're going to need wool socks to keep your feet warm. I personally like Darn Tough socks and some from a label called Mountain View I got at Ocean State Job Lot for $4.00 (70% merino). You don't have to spend a ton of money to get wool socks. TJ Maxx and Marshalls have slightly irregulars on sale quite often around here. Not sure about California, tho. Avoid cotton socks. Run far, far away from acrylic socks. Look for socks that are mostly (>50%) wool. Nylon will give them some durability.

You're also going to need to learn how to take care of your boots! Maybe you do this already, but if not...

The simplest thing to do is wipe them off with a clean towel after you get back indoors.

You're also going to have to treat your leather boots with some kind of dressing. Frequency varies, but at least once a year. Once a month is probably overkill. So find something in-between that works for you.

This is strictly in my opinion and experience, but the two best products I've found for this are Obenauf's Leather Protector and Huberd's Shoe Grease. WARNING: Obenauf's WILL darken the leather. That's no big deal to me but for some people it's a non-starter. Huberd's doesn't seem to darken leather, but YMMV.

Lastly, Bick #4 does a real nice job of conditioning and cleaning leather shoes/boots. I only use this when I think my shoes/boots are looking a little grubby. Bick #4 does NOT darken leather at all.

I hope you get a chance to "enjoy" a "real winter" sometime soon. One of the most fun experiences I've ever had was hanging out with a buddy from India who had never experienced snow before. He thought it was glorious. It made me take a new look at it, and winter CAN be glorious if you want it to be.

Deleted my other post on this as I figured everyone would rather see the pics than a link to the band...

I originally assumed I'd do the stainless band since I have the stainless/silver 360 but have to say the grey leather strap really grew on me while I was trying to figure out what kind of metal bands were out there that'd work.

If it wasn't for the lack of a easier to remove clasp on the leather strap that came with the 360, I might have even kept it on there.

I found after a full day of wearing the leather band though that moisture was getting stuck under the watch due to sweat and hand washing.

Since the leather strap is to much of a pain to quickly remove every time I washed my hands, I'd just not bother.

With the metal band, the quick release clasp on the bottom makes it very quick to remove/loosen the watch to dry under there after each hand washing now.


Here's the matte black version

Here's the stainless steel verson

You'll need to either use the spring bars/pins that came with the watch or buy some like these.

Best Buy also sells the same Pebble Steel bands for the same price as Amazon which is where I got mine from.

Some tips with removal and install. The spring bar/pin holes in the Moto 360 are made from plastic. Be extra careful with removal and putting the new ones back in. If you misshapen or break those holes, you're screwed.

If you don't have a proper spring bar tool like this, you'll need a jewelers sized flathead screw driver.

Getting the existing bands out is the easy part, I found putting the new band back in with the spring bars that came with the leather strap to be a lot more tricky in the metal band. I found the best way was to try and compress the springs on both ends of the bar and go straight into the opening. If you try to put one side of the spring bar in first then compress the other side, it didn't want to fit.

I enlisted my wife with her tiny little hands to assist and it made things a lot easier :P

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask.

That's a great find! The lack of heel might be odd if you aren't use to it, so watch for arch pain. As for the shoes, check the heel stitching and make sure it isn't loose, and that the sole is in good condition without uneven wear. A cobbler can easily fix those things. Also, check that the tongue and vamp seam isn't stretched or torn. Also, switch out the laces a thiner braid, waxed ones if you can - something slick to match the shoe.

As for care, definitely check out the "Put This On" episode that Thamonsoon recommended. Your initial clean will be cleaning the dust off with a damp cloth, get in the seams - try a toothbrush. Then wait for them to dry and give a good brushing. For continual maintenance, I'll copy my shoe care suggestions I made from another post here:

"I made another post about boat shoe care, so in that style I'll give you the basics of caring for your new shoes.

You will need a soft cloth, any jersey cotton will work, or you can buy a shoe rag, a stiff brush, cedar shoe trees and some shoe polish. This will cost you about $30 USD and last a while.

• After a day of wear: Brush any mud or debris off of them, don't forget the soles, and give them a quick wipe with a damp cloth. Put in the shoe trees so that they fit snugly, but not too tight.
  
  
• Every 1 to 2 weeks, depending on usage: Polish your shoes. To do this, start by removing the laces and cleaning the shoe of any dust or debris, if you use a damp cloth, wait for the shoes to dry before continuing. Then, take your polish brush, collect some polish from the tin on the bristles and brush your shoes until you can see a thin layer of polish on them. Once you've covered all the sides and seams, let them stand for 15 minutes or so for the polish to set.
  After they've set, buff you shoes vigorously with your polish brush until they have a lustre and you can no longer see the matte texture of polish. If you wish to "shine" your shoes, give them that reflective lustre, take your polish rag and give you shoes a once over with polish. Just enough so you can see you've covered the shoe. Then add a few drops of water to an area of the shoe an buff with the polish cloth to a mirror shine. Continue until the all the polish is buffed, adding water drops as necessary. That's all.
  
  
• When they've become considerably soiled: Make sure the shoes are dry, then clean off any dirt. Take a damp cloth and wipe the shoes down, using a brush or you finger to clean out seams and stitching. Pay attention to tongue seams, sole stitching and lace eyelets. Allow the shoes to dry completely and polish as above, however, when first adding the polish, let them sit for an hour or two for the leather to absorb the polish well, this should ease the stress of the dirt drying the leather and the water affecting the panels.
  
  As for brands, Kiwi is affordable and accesible to most people. There are other brands, so if something is easier for you to get, that's fine. If you need help with selection, just give your location and I can find some local options. As for colour, try and match the polish, but if you don't want to, you can go with neutral - it will do no harm, but your shoes may have a diminished lustre or show more patina ageing as you wear them, as it lacks any colouring. Definitely don't think an "Express" or "Rub-on" option will do the same, it won't and your shoes will suffer in the long term because of it.
  
  That's the basics for at-home care. If you have any problems with them, like a seam opening or your soles are wearing in places, don't hesitate on bringing them to a cobbler. Ask around for recommendations, or check online review sites for your area to find a one. A good cobbler can do wonders to bring your shoes back to life, or modify them for your needs. I'm not sure what brand you have purchased, but some shoe companies offer rebuilding services for shoes that are significantly worn, but can still be repaired.
  
  If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask, and good luck with your new shoes!"

Both the watches are capable of having a NATO band on them. Personally, I think that the classic silver T2H281 would look best with a wider variety of NATO bands. It's also kind of the watch I like more in general of the two, so I could be a little biased.

You are going to want to buy a tool to remove the spring bars in the band/strap which hold the strap to the lugs of the watch. Different watches have different lug width. Both of the watches you were looking at where 18 mm lug width, so you are going to want to order an 18 mm NATO band to accompany, along with your spring bar tool.

AND since I am being extra nice today I went ahead and showed you what a NATO strap entails and how to put it on.

Step One: remove the strap with the spring bar tool.

Step Two: notice the spring bar within the strap, remove this and place back in between watch lugs.

Step Three: The watch should now look like this after the spring bars are put back on, lay out the NATO strap next to it exactly like so.

Step Four: Weave through the watch spring bars like so, and then weave the main band through the metal bar I am holding in order to secure the watch to the NATO band.

Step Five: End result with complimentary wrist shot, showing the spring bar tool and leather band I removed (which I happen to often wear). Loop excess strap through the bars on the NATO strap like pictured.

Good luck my friend, Cheers!

My favorite shoe cleaning supplies

Angelus Water and Stain Repellant, Clear


Kiwi 209-000 Suede and Nubuck Care Kit


Shacke Suede & Nubuck 4-Way Leather Brush Cleaner



E6000 230010 Craft Adhesive, 3.7 Fluid Ounces

Saphir Renomat 100ml

B&E LIFE 5 Pairs Practical Plastic Adjustable Length Men Shoe Tree Stretcher Boot Holder Organizers 5 Pairs Black

You could get shoe trees for much cheaper, from Ikea for example but I just wanted to link something.

Angelus Easy Cleaner 8 Oz.


These brushes are the absolute best if you know better brushes let me know


Angelus Sole Bright 4 Oz Salon care 40 works too



IRIS USA, Inc. CNL-5 Storage Box, 5 Quart, Clear, 20 Pack


Dr. Scholl's WORK Massaging Gel Advanced Insoles (Men's 8-14) // All-Day Shock Absorption and Cushioning for Hard Surfaces (Packaging May Vary), 1 Count

EB Kicks,


If you know of any better products please let me know I don't believe I missed anything

This video is stupid helpful for white sneakers

Get Jordan 1 Glitter outta your shoes

No shoe lasts forever, but here is how you can help yours try

• Avoidance: Try not to wear your shoes in the rain, wet leather soles wear several times as quickly as dry ones and are more susceptible to tears or other serious damage. Treat your shoes like you would your foot, don't kick anything or drop anything on them.
  
  
• Rotation: Wear your nice leather shoes only every second or preferably third day, this gives the leather time to dry, which will reduce wear and tear. Cost $0 Last: 10-15 years From: You
  
  
• Shoe Trees: Pulls moisture out of your shoes after they're worn. Maintains shape and keeps them smelling nice. Cost: $24.95 Lasts: 10-15 years From: Woodlore/Allen Edmonds, Jos A Bank on sale, Nordstrom
  
  
• Shoe Horn: goes behind your heel as you put your shoes on, keeps your heel from folding over the leather in the back and degrading it over time. Cost $2.50 Lasts: Lifetime From: Amazon
  
  
• Toe and heel: they're little metal plates that are nailed into the sole to keep that area from wearing. Doubles the life of the sole. Cost ~$20 Lasts: 1-2 years From: Local cobbler or shoe repairman.
  
  
• Topy: Thin rubber top coat over the toe of the shoe, lowers the wear of the leather. Cost ~$30 Lasts: 1-2 years From: Local cobbler or Shoe Repairman.
  
  
• Leathr conditioner: Every two weeks to two months depending on wear. Keeps the leather soft and happy. Cost $4.95 + Shipping Lasts: at least a year. From: Allen Edmonds
  
  
• Horsehair Brush: Keeps dirt, dust and salt off your shoes, brushing down when you get home will keep your shoes clean and happy. Cost: $6.99 Lasts: 5-6 years From: Kiwi
  
  
• Creme Polish: Helps moisturize leather, maintain colour and keep them shiny. Cost: $9.00 Lasts: At least a year From: Allen Edmonds
  
  
• Edge Dressing: Applied once every couple of months to the edge of the sole and heel, it will keep your shoes looking neat and sharp. Cost: $4-5 Lasts: 3-5 years From: Fiebings, Allen Edmonds.
  
  If you take care of your shoes and treat them well, they can last up to 15 years and still look beautiful.
  

No way! Another Michigander! 😀
Here’s a super long list of all the stuff I can think of. The biggest investment is probably a warm coat and shoes. The rest I found was reasonably priced at amazon/ target etc!

I got a down filled ski hoodie made by Spyder. I think it’s this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UWFH524/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2lavDbC53WXZX
NorthFace and Patagonia sell them too. I just made sure the one I got was made for sub zero cold temps. Any thing 40 degrees and over and it’s too hot to wear so it’s definitely for cold weather.
Insulated running tights, sometimes I throw a pair of sweats over them if it’s crazy cold. You could even get wind stopper pants for over the top. That might be my next investment for layering.
I wear a long sleeve and short sleeve T-shirt underneath.
I have a thick winter buff for my neck that I can pull over my mouth if needed
A wool beanie with polar fleece lining that’s long enough to really cover my ears and good gloves. I use insulated trail running shoes and when it’s icy I put Yax trax on them https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094GO6ZG
ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IxavDbHJBZEFJ
You can find cheaper brands on amazon.
And the last thing is a head lamp since it gets dark so damn early here. 😂
I tend to overdress and sometimes get a little hot but I’m kind of a baby about being cold.
I really enjoy going when it’s snowing. It’s so amazing and peaceful!
If you’re concerned about getting snow in your socks (I also usually wear smart wool or two pairs depending) you can buy gaitors: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J5NJ5TH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xpbvDbED217RQ
I’ve tried my husband’s but I don’t feel like I need them. I don’t go in deep snow or anything. There’s a plowed rails to trails type trail here that they keep pretty clean in the winter—the biggest concern is ice.

Nice pickup, I'm in the market for a affordable Bauhaus-styled watch.

I believe this watch has a 20mm lug width, so here we go.

For NATO straps, I think a blue and white stripe one will suffice, but you can look here to see what you might fancy. $13 here.

If you want something similar to a NATO but more 'dressy', you can buy a perlon strap. Search for Eulit on eBay.


By 'link', I don't know if you mean like a metal bracelet, but if you want to achieve something like this (not my photo), then you can buy something similar here for $10. If you want, you can spend more to get better quality, but this one gets the job/look accomplished.

For leather, I think any kind and color goes well. Recommended bands are Hadley Roma, Panatime, and Hirsch if you want to spend a bit more.

Don't forget a spring bar tool to switch out the straps, option 1 and option 2.

Hope this helps and welcome to the watch world! Post pics once you find something.

If you want to go for the original look, I believe that the Big Zero crystals were flat-topped, so they were more cylindrical than domed. You can typically find that style on ebay if you search for "Big Zero Crystal" (here, for example). It's not a horribly common style, so I doubt that most watchmakers would have one.

Alternatively, a standard domed crystal would also work. A local watchmaker might have one in stock in the right size (or could certainly order one if they don't have it); you can also get them at Esslingers.com. Getting the right size can be tricky, though; I don't know what size crystal it takes (the ebay link above says 35.5mm, FWIW). You can get a cheap caliper to measure the opening, but the crystal needs to be slightly larger than the opening (as it need to be compressed when it is installed).

Acrylic crystals can be a bit tricky to install (if you do it yourself). Ideally, you'll want to use an actual crystal insertion tool, but they aren't particularly cheap. The cheaper alternative is a crystal lift. I'm not a huge fan of the lifts, as they seem to be best for scratching and/or breaking crystals, but some others have had better luck. If you're just looking to have this single crystal installed, you will probably want to have a watchmaker do it; if you want the original look, buy a crystal on ebay to supply to them, and if not, let them supply a domed crystal for you.

I'd also recommend that you pick up a tube of polywatch from Amazon; it is fantastic for taking out light to medium scratches.

I have the Blondo Valli's and they're absolutely amazing. I don't do heels in general (typically they always hurt my feet) but am comfortable in these - and I am on my feet and walking a lot. They're created by a Canadian company who makes cute, stylish shoes made for Canadian weather. I live in the Midwest where we have a lot of rain, heavy snow and ice and use these year-round (except summer) because they're not only waterproof, but also the bottoms are textured so they won't slip on ice (see: Canadian company). They're a bit pricey up front, but I've had mine for 2 1/2 years now, wear them daily and they still look brand new. Just treat them with a leather or suede protector and you're good to go. Definitely worth the investment.

They also have a few other cute styles, like these.

How could you have any cake other for your birthday than funfetti cake?? That's, like, the ultimate birthday cake!

These lock laces would make me very happy by preventing me from having to tie my shoelaces over and over while running.

Happy Happy Joy Joy! And happy birthday! Thanks for the contest. :)

You don't need heavy duty crampons, something like this would work (on mobile, not sure how to properly format this link): YakTrax 8611 Pro Traction Cleats for Walking, Jogging, or Hiking on Snow and Ice, Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094GO6ZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gU1lDbGMSKRKH

If you're camping prepare for it to be very cold. Especially if you're along the river. Wind can also pretty strong there. Definitely lots of outfitters in Moab, but as November is the slow season you may have shorter hours and some may be closed completely.

You will definitely need a car for both parks. Devil's Garden is a great hike in Arches, but the trail can be hard to follow. There's two sides to Canyonlands - Island in the Sky and the Needles district. Island in the sky is what people typically think of, and it's quite close to Arches. The Needles district is farther south and a little more difficult to get to, but it's really pretty, has some areas of hoodoo formations which are always cool to see. Dead Horse State Park is also pretty close and has a really cool viewpoint and some small hikes you can do. Alltrails.com is a good resource to get more information on hikes in the area.

Just make sure to layer your clothes - temperatures can change dramatically! - and always have lots of water. Utah and Arizona are both very dry states, and the lack of humidity can impact people a lot, especially if they're not used to it. Carry more water than you think you'll need.

Have a great time!

My favorite gift I got myself is the "Diamond Dazzle Stick." I also got it as a stocking stuffer for my brother's new fiancee.

https://www.amazon.com/Connoisseurs-1050-Diamond-Dazzle-Stick/dp/B00459VM6I

​

If you know she plans to get engagement photos taken, you could get her a gift certificate (or a homemade one so she can redeem it wherever she wants) to get her hair and/or makeup done for the photos? Ooh when I first got engaged I was obsessed with having my nails on point all the time so in general if she likes manicures you could get her a gift card to her local nail salon!

​

You could also give her cutesy homemade coupons for things like "good for 1 hour of helping you sift through vendor reviews on the Knot" or "good for 1 hour of listening to you vent about wedding stress."

A lot of people recommend the regular Weekenders but they tick really loudly. They look great and are worth their price but the tick bothers me.

The best watches I've found for under $100 are:

Seiko 5 in your preferred color

Casio MDV Diver

Timex Weekender Chrono (Doesn't tick loudly)

If you choose one of these it's really easy to switch out the strap with one of these (spring bar tool)

I own all three of these watches and they are great. You can also check out different straps on Amazon or sites like cheapestnatostraps.

and a cheap plug for /r/Watches

Though I don't use leather boots at the brewery, I'm a huge boot nerd.

One of the biggest rules of leather boot care is letting your boots rest for at least 24 hours before wearing again. This gives time for all the moisture to be wicked away, especially from accumulated sweat while working. Cedar shoe trees are also your best friend, and will help even more with taking away moisture (plus they smell awesome). Put them in immediately after use!

As for leather care itself, coconut oil or Obenauf's oil are both excellent. Brush your boots with shoe brush, or wipe them down with a damp warm cotton cloth. Let dry, then apply the oil to the leather with your fingers, working the it in naturally with the warmth from your body (you'll feel sexy). Let the boots dry overnight, and then they'll be good to go! Coconut oil or Obenauf's will darken the leather a bit, so be aware of that.

I would shoot for twice a month for conditioning - really depends on how hard you work your boots.

Hope that helps!

The one I linked to comes with a green NATO strap, but the watch is available in a wide variety of straps. Changing straps is not hard. Just make sure to get the right size, the Weekender uses standard 20mm straps. Here is a video that shows how it is done. A tool like this is a great help. Some straps have a "quick release" feature, which makes it super easy to change them without any tools. Here's a video that demonstrates the how quick release straps work.

> I have no clue how to care for roughout ; any recommendations?

I'm by no means an expert, but all of my boots are roughout, suede, or nubuck (still no smoothout, weirdly) and I've sort of winged it ("wung" it?) to some semblance of success.

I give them a through brushing with a normal horsehair brush to get rid of dirt. I use typical circular and side-to-side motion as I go. Then I sort of "tap" the bristles straight down on the leather, and sort of "flick" the brush as I lift. I do this to fluff up the nap, and undo any patterns the brush has made on its path around the boot.

That's just after a normal day or few of wear. If they're more dirty than normal, I might use a suede brush like this to go over the boot. One side has rubber bristles, and the other has a mix of synthetic and copper bristles.

I first take the rubber bristles and rub in soft circles. Because it's rubber, there's a lot of drag, and it kinda feels like I'm pressing down the nap a lot (and sometimes I wonder if it's just matting it down more than getting rid of any dirt). Then I'll very gently use the other side to "fluff" up the nap again. The copper bristles do a good job of this, but definitely can remove some of it. Like, even if you do it gently, sometimes there will be little bits of the nap left on the brush and sitting on top of the boots that I've got to brush off with the horsehair brush. I've no idea if that's normal, if I'm doing it wrong, etc. But I figured from the get-go that I'd have to be delicate when using something like copper bristles on leather. Using the copper side is definitely not a necessity, and I certainly get a little paranoid that it's being more aggressive with the leather than is necessary, so take that with a grain of salt.

If you want to add some waterproof-ness, you can try Tarrago Nano Protector. I used it after lots of recommendations from users here. My main criteria was that it wouldn't darken the leather, so Tarrago is a winner in that regard. After 20–30 mins of drying they'll repel water pretty readily, though it does wear off over time. I went really light on my applications of the Tarrago, because I didn't want to saturate the leather, but I think I could've used more for better and longer-lasting waterproof-ness.

Here are some things to consider before buying and installing a strap :)

1. Strap Width: Figure out what your watch's strap width is, usually called the "lug to lug" measurement. Watches commonly have 14-24mm wide lugs. A ruler works just fine. Length is usually not an issue unless you have far larger or slimmer than average wrists, if the stock strap works, you should be OK. WPT: check amazon/other sellers, often times they list the strap width. It's listed here as being 22mm for your watch.
   
2. Strap Style: Purely up to you, some common styles other than the typical leather are Aviators (stitched+rivet for strength), NATO/Zulu (one piece of fabric/leather, very secure and simple), and of course, bracelets. Look here for more examples, though the relatively recently introduced Leather NATO isn't shown.
   
3. Tools: I will say this once; BUY A SPRING BAR TOOL! They are available dirt cheap from amazon and ebay, and will greatly reduce your frustration level when it comes time to swap straps. (Note: No tools needed when swapping normal NATO style straps as they thread through the spring bars. You will need a tool to remove your stock strap and install the bare spring bars however.) Also a spring bar tool will reduce the odds of your tool slipping and marring/scratching your case while you try to compress the bar. Important thing to consider, especially if you have a plated or treated case as you can't just polish out scratches. I bought this one though there are a couple cheaper.
   
   I am a huge fan of amazon for basic tools and even some straps. For NATOs I like to use www.natostrapsco.com as they have competitive pricing, great CS, free (USPS) shipping, and almost always have an extra 10-15% code on their facebook page. Their leather NATOs are very nice as well.
   
   Here's a pic of a new strap I put on my Pulsar:
   https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6742429/2015-01-12%2011.59.20.jpg

For shoes, I totally recommend lace locks. I buy them on eBay from China so I can have back ups. They come in all colors. That way she can have any shoes she wants and she can be independent in putting her shoes on. I use them because I hate when my laces come undone and I don't like how it feels when my shoes get too loose or too tight. Plus, they are reusable, so you can use them on other shoes. I bought something to help one of students with his pants and buttons. I'm looking for it now. It was like this but it wasn't like this.

Make sure when she gets older that she has time and a half or double the time for tests in a quiet testing environment for her accommodations. If she has more time and its a low pressure environment, she will probably do better. I had someone to read my tests for me (if I wanted) and a quiet testing environment in high school and college. I usually didn't want a reader. But the quiet environment was nice, because I could take my time and it was completely no pressure. They usually didn't check on me, so I could listen to my iPod too (which I wasn't allowed to do because it was considered cheating, but I don't consider listening to Meatloaf as cheating).

For tests where she has to write multiple choice, what you can try is highlighting a box for her to write in. Having a distinct place to write in helps sometimes. Sometimes with math (which will be hard for her) 4x4 graph paper will help her line things up. I've also used 3 or 2 line paper and highlight each line with different color highlighter to give a kid a visual cue of where to write. They sell highlighted paper. If it works. There is also raised line paper which gives guidance. Its interesting to write on. I've used it at a training.

For her academics, if she has a favorite color (who doesn't), I suggest getting her a pen or a pencil in that color. Let her do her work in that color. Get it as an accommodation. If writing in a pink sparkly pen makes her want to do her math homework more, who really cares if its in pink sparkly pen? Staples even sells colored binder paper. If writing on pink paper with pink sparkly pens makes homework fun, go for it. I had a student who would only do his writing with a yellow highlighter. It made it really difficult for me, but he wouldn't write with anything else. Who am I to complain at that point?

You're doing good by her. Just remember 80% is success in life unless you're learning to cross the street or identify bleach.

Lock Laces. I started using them to save a few seconds in triathlons, but I absolutely love them for running. I ordered a new pair of shoes yesterday and the first thing I did was order a pair of Lock Laces to go with them.

They take a little bit of work to adjust in the beginning, but once you get it right they give you a perfect fit every time. Even if your feet swell during a run, they're elastic enough they just stretch a little rather than getting too tight. They also never come undone in the middle of a run, and they make your shoes very easy to put on and take off.

Hopefully I don't sound like a Lock Laces salesperson. There are other brands and I presume they work just as well, but I haven't tried them. My only real complaint is they're overpriced for what they are, but it's worth it. Also they kind of suck for trail running, and I definitely wouldn't use them for a mud race--that would be a good way to lose a shoe.

How tight should shoe trees fit into your shoes?

I've had a pair of these shoe trees for a while. They're a size medium, and I wear a 9D. That's apparently the right size.

They go pretty 'deep' into the shoe, but they definitely have a bit of resistance, and the 'heel' of the shoe tree is definitely engaging the spring, even at fully inserted position.


I just got these when I ordered some Bucks. I also ordered Mediums, and according to the chart, that's the proper size. These are much looser overall (in my other shoes too, not just the new ones.) The spring is much more lightly engaged when it's fully inserted.

They expand a bit, but they aren't pushing against the heel of the shoe nearly as much as my other pair. The others definitely aren't TOO big for the shoe, but I'm wondering if these are okay, or if I should upsize?

Basically, I never thought about how much force there should be in there.

Monowear's metal band ($80) will allow you to add links lengthening it to accommodate wrists up to 257 mm. I believe the extra links come with the band and do not need to be ordered extra, but I'm not certain. But you have to buy a tool to add links separately. There is a kit on Amazon for under $10.

I was about to buy it when I saw a YouTube comment that its width is better designed for the 38 mm and it looks too narrow with the 42. Not sure how much faith I should put in a random comment, but it gives me pause when $80 is on the line.

Would love to know how it looks if anyone here gets one.

Update: I went ahead and ordered it. The black looks really nice. Extra links are free; you just have to send customer service an email requesting them after you submit your order.

Alright - with all of those things considered...here is my advice. This Seiko 5 is well within your price range and can work in both casual and professional settings. I have one myself, and it's much better looking in person than in the stock photos. Additionally, at only 38mm wide and 11mm thick, it is quite small and won't look big on your wrist (I don't know your measurement, but you should be good). Now, you said you like leather - I suggest putting this hadley-roma strap on it. You may need a spring bar set to help you out, but it's really easy. These three purchases will still put you in at around $50 under budget and a sweet looking wrist piece. Also, if you're looking for what the final product will look like, here is mine with the exact same set up

Clean it with saddle soap to start to see if that helps. I personally like Pink Miracle which has saddle soap in it and is liquid so it’s easy, but you can get a tin of solid saddle soap at Walmart/Target. Tarrago dye comes with a prep liquid that helps remove old dye (apply with a scratchy pad). It comes in several dozen colors with nice, rich color payoff after only 1-2 coats (but apply more like 4-5 coats) of sponge application.

That's really awesome. I can relate to this pretty strongly since my father collects watches and got me into them as well. His piece of choice for every day wear when I was a kid was a Submariner that he still uses - maybe one day it'll be mine too! :D

What you mentioned about the clasps feeling cheap is quite true. If I understand correctly, for a long time it was more-or-less a trademark of Rolex, despite how counter-intuitive that may seem. More modern Rolex pieces have machined (as opposed to stamped) clasps which feel much more solid and less cheap.

As far as scratches, you can buff out a lot of the ones on the crystal with polywatch. Here's a link: http://www.amazon.com/Polywatch-Plastic-Lens-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0014R9V9O

I'm sure I don't need to tell you, but enjoy the piece and take good care of it!

i did the same thing and needed extra links. i contacted motorola and they were pretty good about sending me extra links. while you are at it i would ask them to send the plastic end pieces that attach the band to the watch. these can crack. if you have to add links you may want to get a tool off of amazon that will help you with this. also this tool can help getting the spring bars off and on.

fyi, in order to get these parts you will most likely need to give them the watch's ime number (serial number) so i'm not sure you can preemptively start the process with them.

initially i called them after normal business hours and got support from a foreign call center. this was kind of "iffy" so i sent a follow up email. the email correspondence went well.

also, being that the band was too small, i could tell that the previous owner removed a link, i contacted the ebay seller asking for extra links (initially). they responded that they did not have them and offered a refund or a discount. i think there are different vendors selling the refurb moto 360 1st gen so ymmv.


good luck.

took these for my euro trip during summer and an asia trip during winter. Love these shoes. The gum sole on these should be easy to keep clean, but I used the shoe cleaner by pink miracle for the rest of the shoe. Looks A LOT better than what it did, but obviously won't be able to keep these that clean if they're seeing the world.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7NDT3A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Happy to help!

Generally, most bracelets on watches can be easily swapped out unless they're integrated into the case or have an uncommon size or shape. Keep in mind though, you will need a spring bar tool to swap bracelets/bands. Takes a bit of getting used to, but it's quite easy once you figure it out. If you don't want to do it yourself, it's an easy and cheap fix at a local watch-maker.

I see this one recommended often, but I've been doing okay with the free ones that often come bundled with straps.

Here's my list of tools. I and not any sort of expert and by no means claim it's the best, but I've been able to do mods successfully with it!

• basic tool kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVN1DC0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  
• I got rid of most of the stuff from this and use the case for the things I actually use!
  
• Crystal press https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DN8QHSD?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  
• Hand presser tools
  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PVPJ44Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  
• Loupe goggles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PT8FRBS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
  
• Rodico
  
• Watch grease
  
• TOOTHPICKS
  
• rubber or vinyl gloves
  
• Bergeon dial protectors
  
• Movement holder from Crystaltimes https://crystaltimes.net/movement-holder
  
  I think that's most of it...
  
  If I had to do it over again I think I would buy this kit
  
  https://www.esslinger.com/watch-repair-deluxe-watch-tool-set/
  
  It has basically all the useful stuff short of a cheap amazon crystal press!

Yep it works. It won't keep your shoes bone dry if you dunk them in water but if you spray down the outside of your shoes with it really well then let them dry for 24 hours. It definitely will keep the outside dry. I spray down my shoelaces too and let them dry separately. I bought this stuff. I'd personally reapply occasionally but I don't know if that's strictly necessary. It's certainly not a scam though.

There is heavier duty stuff out there if you want something that will really make your boots/shoes super waterproof instead of "water resistant" though. Just look at reviews.

Edit: This looks decent too.

This youtube video is a good place to start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LmhSzISB-2c

Once you start changing straps you may never stop, so I'd suggest getting a decent strap changing tool. Bergeron makes really good stuff, but something like this is fine: https://www.amazon.com/GGI-Spring-Bar-Tool-Set/dp/B005ZEWGSA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1474832095&sr=8-4&keywords=watch+strap+tool

To buy your replacement strap you'll need to know the width between the lugs (where the strap attaches). Measured in millimeters. Amazon is listing your watch lug width as 21mm - most people will suggest to buy a 22mm nato strap and squeeze it in (they usually are even numbers - 18mm, 20mm, 22mm etc). You might need to buy some 21MM spring bars (ebay or amazon) - you don't say how or where the current bracelet is breaking, but its a small expense to buy new spring bars.

Something like this might look cool, but the trick with Natos is that they are pretty cheap, and you can buy three or four for $50 (try cheapestnatostraps dot com) and swap them out depending on your mood.

https://www.amazon.com/StrapsCo-Premium-Orange-Stripe-Ballystic/dp/B00ZJ49AC6/ref=sr_1_40?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1474832536&sr=1-40&nodeID=6358539011&keywords=22mm+nato+strap

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016A8I8HC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the set I ordered, pretty cheap and it comes with 4 spring bars for every size 8-25mm. Not sure about the strength of the spring bars since I've only been using them for a day but they seem good. I just laid the watch down on a cloth and wrapped it in a micro fiber cloth to prevent any scratching.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5AIniENJwk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS92QnF2e4o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQw4w9WgXcQ

It's really pretty easy and only takes 10-15 min.

​

You have to search for the lug width to determine which size band you need. Googling gives me a general consensus of 18mm, but a few listings say 19mm or 17mm, so it'd be best to measure yours when you get it.

Here's the most recent buying guide for watch accessories. Check out the recommendations for watch strap stores.

At the minimum, you'd need a decent spring bar tool for changing the strap, like this.

Finally, no it's perfectly fine having multiple straps for one watch as it really does change up the look.

I also don't know what the minute hand is for.

Hello everybody!

I recently bought R.M. Williams comfort craftsmans and was wondering which shoetree pair from woodlore I should buy!

My current options are Woodlore adjustable cedar shoe trees and the Woodlore epic twin-tube shoe tree pair

I don't know which one is better for the shoe I have (R.M. Williams comfort craftsman in 10.5H UK sizing) I don't know what size and type of shoe tree is best for my boot and was wondering if anybody here had any experiences with something like this and willing to help!

Yep. 20mm spring bar. They're pretty much all created equal. You might as well get something like this and never have to worry about it again, but there are a bunch of options on amazon and elsewhere. Anywhere that sells watches will probably have them if you don't want to wait for shipping.

You also might want a spring-bar tool to put it in. You can do it without a specialized tool but it makes it much easier. I have this one and it works great.

I wouldn't worry about it too much. Don't forgot that the lense of your sunglasses is black which would match the strap. I personally don't like mixing a blackface watch with a brown strap, but I would still look around Cheapest Nato Straps.com. The beauty of NATO straps are they are pretty cheap and interchangeable so you could mix around with them.

As for the comment below about removing the original strap; you don't need to slice. Just get one of these strap removal tool, and you could take it off your self. At most it will take 10 mins. Easy DIY job.

As soon as I opened the box and saw the watch in person, I immediately bought a new strap from WatchGecko. It's one of their cheaper vintage straps but I love it. The company is in England so shipping to California took a couple weeks. If you're thinking about changing the strap on your Bambino, I would recommend getting a good quality spring bar tool like the one I bought off Amazon.

I got mine off amazon, I think you can probably get them at some jewelry places too. It’s like a little brush filled with gel cleaner that you twist up - you just brush your ring with it and then rinse it off. It makes it SO sparkly! I make sure to clean the side stones well and the bottom of the ring and rinse it really well. They’re amazing.

Here's the one I got. I have no idea where it lies on the spectrum in terms of effectiveness, but it works pretty well. Not waterproof by any means but it'll keep water off unless it's absolutely downpouring or you submerge the shoe in water.

The coating works by changing the surface free energy (I think) and loses effectiveness via friction and force. As such, the greater the volume and velocity of water that's contacting the shoe, the less likely it is to be effective. It'll also wear off faster in high wear areas such as where your shoe creases on the vamp.

My first GYW pair as well, also black cherry. I picked up a Lexol Leather Care Kit that comes with leather cleaner and conditioner. I wore them a few times and then cleaned and conditioned them according to the kit instructions. After each wear I brush them down with a horse hair brush and when I'm not wearing them I put in shoe trees.

I clean/condition them after about 5-6 weeks, unless I get them really muddy or something. There are surely others on this sub with better knowledge of leather care, but this routine has been working fine for me so far. Most will recommend giving them 24 hours to rest after wearing, but, y'know, they're boots.

I bought it a few weeks ago and it has been working great ever since!
Great deal if you have Amazon prime. If you don't have it, then get it because it is amazing. Ha!
GGI Spring Bar Tool Set - 5in., 7 Pc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZEWGSA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_hKk2wb65N82FH

They make small tools to make it easier, but you can do it with any thin, flat tool.

Here's an easy video that shows you how. I'd recommend NOT using a knife, as you don't want to cut the band - a small flat-head screw-driver, or even a thin metal putty knife would do the job nicely.

Does that help?

Someone more knowledgeable than me should answer this too, but:

2) This spring bar tool is the one I used, and seems to be perfect for the job. ~$5, prime eligible.

3) From what I've learned today, I guess 17mm could work as it's just being held by that bar, but the 18mm leather straps I have on it now are perfectly flush. It's definitely an "18mm watch". But I guess technically anything narrower will also "fit" on it.

These would definitely Make me smile, Rasta!

Thanks and good luck all :)

Leather jackets pretty much take care of themselves but if you're going to be using it on a bike, it can get pretty nasty in a hurry.

The best advice is to just read the tag that comes with the jacket. If it's constantly exposed to rain and snow, you'll want to waterproof it, there are plenty of products out on the market, and make sure that it gets dried properly.

Here's a good general guide:

http://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Leather-Jacket

Here's what I use about twice a year

http://www.amazon.com/Scotchgard-Leather-Protector-Nubuck-7-Ounce/dp/B0083GNLHC/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_z

[I got one of these years ago, best investment ever!](ohuhu 147 pcs watch repair tool kit case opener spring bar tool set bonus a hammer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVN1DC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kyaUAbXZ0N1DT). Its just nice to not need to bring it to someone for easy things like battery changes and link adjustments.

The CA 1212 is a 41mm band (I was way off). I couldn't find anything metal in that size. I'd call your local watch shop and see what they can order.

I love the 168W, it has the same module as the F-91W with a much better backlight and a great retro look. I have a NATO on my main F-91W, and while it was a pain to get on there, it’s much better than the resin band.

Also, the easiest way I found to remove the straps off a F-91W is with a little rubber mallet like this: SE JT6218 5-Piece Watch Band Link Pin Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q8AJSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bkcQBb60EQRR8

They also have a tool for removing the spring bar you can get.
http://amzn.com/B005ZEWGSA

I didn't use it but if you want to be super careful you might like this. Might be a good thing to have if you plan on changing bands a lot too.

I've been lurking for a while but finally made an account to ask this:

I decided to go with Red Wing Beckmans (9023) as my first high-quality footwear purchase. I also purchased a Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush, a Lexol 907 Leather Care Kit, and Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree (Cedar).

My first question is: how should the shoe trees fit into my Beckmans? I went to a Red Wing store and got sized. They said I have wide feet and recommended I get 8.5 (I usually wear 8.5s in regular footwear like Van's and Nike). I purchased the 8.5 Beckmans and I've worn them about 8 times now. Out of paranoia, I double checked with the Red Wing store to see if the boots were creasing properly (as I have a lot of toe space and was worried that it might be too big). They assured me that It was fine. I ordered size medium (8-9.5 size) and They arrived yesterday. I inserted them into the boots but noticed that it was pretty difficult to get them in there and the heel of the shoe tree scratches against the heel of the boot when inserting. I notice if I wiggle the front of the shoe trees in a bit more before inserting the heel, it doesn't scratch the heel of the boot. I apologize if the picture quality is poor , I only have my phone at this time. Is this okay for my Beckmans? Or should I return these for a different shoe trees? I'm worried about them being stretched improperly. If I should get different ones, can someone direct me to a specific shoe tree? Here are some pictures of my 9023s with the shoe trees.

My second question is, do I need any other care products than the ones I listed above? My care regime currently will be to brush after each use, shoe trees for a minimum of 1 day before next wear, Lexol clean and condition once a month and/or after they get really dirty.

I'd start by saying spring bar tools are cheap, and putting a different band or bracelet on a watch can really change its look. If you find a watch that you want to wear with different outfits, just pick up an additional band or bracelet.

All my watches are stainless steel or titanium, but I don't have a problem wearing them with a blazer with brass buttons, as an example. If I'm wearing a leather strap on my watch, I do avoid mixing black and brown. Black is black, and the point is it's nice and uniform. For brown leathers, I'm not concerned about the shade and some varience there can keep things from getting overly matchy. Can also vary things up with different types of leather, and as watch straps don't require much leather to make, that's a comparatively inexpensive place to add cordovan, stingray, alligator, crocodile, ostrich, tejus lizard, etc. if you want to have some fun with it. As an interesting example, here's what a $75 watch on a $300 strap looks like.

That black-dialed watch on a brown leather strap look sort-of intentionally clashes so you can wear it with whatever.

Honestly, it's not that difficult... I bought this and it works perfectly. Just be gentle with it... The first time took me about 10 mins with me being super careful like I was disarming a bomb but after a few times I can switch out a band in under a minute or two. There are some YouTube videos that explain how to do it in case you never replaced a watch band on your own before. Hope that helps!

Hey man, experimenting with straps is awesome, and can really transform the entire look of the watch. As far as tools go, you can buy a spring bar tool to assist you (I use a Bergeon 6767-F, but you can buy much cheaper ones). If you don't want to buy one, you can use the dental floss method, but it's pretty haggard and if you plan on switching straps more it's worth it to get a spring bar tool.

For straps, it really depends on how much you want to spend. On the cheaper end there's Clockwork Synergy and Barton Straps. In the mid to higher-tier there's WatchGecko and Holben's, and for something really nice Hirsch straps. There are more out there of course.

I got this Dazzle Stick from Amazon right after we got engaged. Best purchase I've made on Amazon in 2017, and since then have ordered it for each of my friends who have recently gotten engaged. 10/10 would buy again!

You'd be surprised. I thought I'd scratch the shit out of my Raven but the acrylic is still mostly scratch free. I have some small hairlines, but those are polished out with Polywatch.

Acrylic also stands up better to harsh drops/bangs which would normally shatter sapphire.

Nice watch though. I like the choice.

For my brown leather shoes, I use this to apply this. And then I hit it with this. There's a lot of different ways to go about it though. Put This On had an episode dedicated to shoes and they demonstrate how to polish your shoes in the film. I highly recommend checking it out (along with their other videos - very good stuff). Good luck.

Oh nice! Definitely the way to go for mens fashion. I rarely see many guys shopping for dress clothes so often have the pick of great finds. Heres the stuff I used on this pair: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000MLBCWM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511888141&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=shoe+grease ........ And here is the other method I typically use when working with regular shoe polish. Ive found this to produxe the best results when dealing with used shoes: http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/polish-your-shoes-properly

have you tried boot-creme on the Kenneth Coles? I mean, I was introduced to it as a way of keeping my boots in good, waterproof condition, but it's amazing stuff. I've seen it take a pair of consignment riding boots from dried out to amazing in one application. I use Meltonian

I can't say for sure if they are the best, but I've had good luck with the cheapest Woodlore trees on Amazon. I've found their springs to be very tight, so I size down 1 from the recommended size (i.e. I am 8.5-9 and I use Small).

They're standard 22mm spring bars, can get them off Amazon, or most anywhere that sells 22mm watchbands.

Make sure that you didn't damage / widen the spring bar pockets in the plastic body of Pebble. They should be nice and round and clean. If you did make them into oval shapes, crack them, etc, then this can keep happening and you'll basically need to replace the Pebble.

A good spring bar tool goes a long way to prevent this, and is worth every penny. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005ZEWGSA

These leggings that I could wear every day bc they're so cute, comfy, & not see thru.

Shiny Satin Pillow Cases bc they stay cool and help prevent frizz.

Diamond Dazzle Stick cleans my diamond wedding rings as well as the sonic machine at the store.

I love these velvet tights so much that I made a close up pic of their pattern my cover photo on fb.

You need some Polywatch, a few microfiber polishing cloth and a few minutes.

Wipe the crystal with a clean cloth to ensure that nothing remains that could scratch the crystal more. Apply a small drop of Polywatch to the crystal and polish with a clean cloth for two or three minutes with gentle pressure. Remove all residue with a clean cloth. Be happy.

the tools i used where:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BU0MWAA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PVN1DC0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

when using the hand remover id recommend cutting a little square out of a ziploc bag, cutting a slit in it, and have it cover the dial so the remover tool doesnt scratch it up. the dials scratch very very easily. Honestly with the cost of parts + having me put it all together, id feel like it wouldnt be worth it, better off DIY'ing it. the crystal press i have/the ones on amazon/all the cheap ones are all pretty shit and might give you trouble with the crystal install, so id recommend having a watch repair shop do that, i pinched/ruined 2 gaskets trying it myself.

Very Important:

• Horsehair Brush
  
• Some sort of cleaner (Lexol)
  
• Some sort of conditioner (Lexol, Bick4)
  
  Optional:
  
  
• Buffing Rag - could also just use old socks or cotton shirts. Make sure whatever you use is 100% cotton since nylon can scratch
  
• Pigmented Cream Polish - Can be used to recolor damaged spots and build a patina. WILL DARKEN YOUR SHOES.
  
• Cuir Gras - My preferred conditioner for greasy leather (like CXL). Not necessary unless you want to spend the extra money over Lexol.
  
  Be sure to review the Leather Care section in the wiki to get a good overview of products and care techniques.

Personally I've had problems with the indentations around the pillars getting packed with snow. But it really depends on what you're dealing with.

I guess the truth is that none of the soles are perfect for the snow but some are better than others for sure. And if you really need some serious traction, your best bet may be to invest in these.

Uhm... I have some boots that use CFStead suede, those are hard wearing so I was fine with walking in the rain. I doubt the Adidas can do the same. I would avoid rainy days for sure, but light shower probably ok. Aside from that, if you have a suede brush to clean debris, it would be better. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Shacke-Suede-Nubuck-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B00IIFFEPU

the stuff in the guides on /r/goodyearwelt was very helpful for me. after reading the stuff there, i bought some venetian cream and a horsehair brush. along with some soft cloths, i can do a pretty good leather care job.

i think the biggest things to note are: don't wear the same pair two days in a row, to give them time to dry out. condition when necessary. use boot trees if you can.

Up for sale is my Omega Speedmaster Reduced 2510.50 in very good condition! I’m sure most people know the general specs of this watch but if you don’t here is a link I was told by the last owner of the watch that it had been well serviced and kept. The last service was is 2016 but has been only a few times since. I have ran my timegrapher on it and it’s readying +/-4spd in most positions. The crystal has the Omega logo in the center so I know it’s genuine Omega Hesalite. It does have a small scratch near the 7 o’clock edge of the class, [Polywath](Plastic Watch Crystal Scratch Remover Polish Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3T237C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4OIoDbFQ8MB6G) would probably take it right out so I have no problems with trying to get it out before shipping it. Serial is 59XXXXXX, if you know how to find the age out please post it.

Full Gallery: https://imgur.com/gallery/07AmbjF

Asking: $1850 I’m posting it accordingly because the most recent model of this watch sold for $1850 and it was in very similar condition. I will always consider reasonable offer though. Located in the U.S. will ship anywhere in the U.S. or to any Maple brothers. PayPal for payment F&F, G&S+3% ($1905)

Please check my feedback and buy with confidence!

Yes they should be fixable. You need two things:

1. Shoe Emulsion to give back some color and to refresh the leather.
   
2. Shoe wax to protect them and give them back their shininess.
   
   This is a great German guide: http://www.dieweltderschuhpflege.de/praxistest/568-party-schuhe.html
   
   Emulsion: http://www.amazon.com/Meltonian-Shoe-Cream-Polish-Black/dp/B0019N8C4I/ref=sr_1_1?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1450103025&sr=1-1&nodeID=3421046011
   
   Good Brands are Burgol, Kiwi, Famaco, Saphir
   

I bought my own tool from Amazon and it has been my saviour on many occasion like helping friends to change straps and bracelets etc. Its very cheap and worth the while to get one for yourself. Cheers

I've had very good luck with these shoe trees on Amazon. They're made by Woodlore, which is owned by Allen Edmonds. These are the same trees as marketed by AE, just cheaper than if they had the AE name on them. I believe they're made in Wisconsin. I use them in my Red Wing Moc Toes and Iron Rangers and they fit very well.

I've been eyeing the brown suede 1K Miles recently. Your rust ones looks great.

Are the boots unlined on the inside, meaning it's just suede without any other leather stitched to it? Does the leather around the ankle ever feel thin or flimsy, especially when worn or taken off?

If you're worried about the longevity of the leather soles, I recommend finding a local reputable cobbler to put on rubber half sole guards. I'm in the US and rubber guards cost me about $38 for a cobbler to install them.

I live in the city and walk a lot, so the rubber guards really help. Otherwise, the leather soles on my shoes would have been eaten through and I would have to pay about $80-100 for a full leather resole.

If you're worried about keeping the leather clean from stains/water, I've read good things about this suede protector.

Also, keep shoe trees in your boots when you're not wearing them. They'll help soak up excess sweat/deodorize them and keep the boots in shape.

Sizing the metal band is very straight forward. I love watches and being able to do things by myself so I bought a watch repair kit for £2 off of Amazon. This is the kit I got, it was on sale when I bought it, I only use the hammer and pins. I got it simply because going to the jewelers and being charged £10 to get a watch band adjusted is ridiculous. I have used it countless times since then and I definitely got my moneys worth.


The black band will get scratched over time, it is impossible for it not to. But the good side is that they typically get scratched on the bottom, and on the inside of the band (depending on the clasp used), so you will never see it unless you want to.

unrelated, but related, what is the general consensus on brushes like this?

I got one because I noticed a liquid mark on my pair after my company party. Brushed at it which helped, but seemed to have made the perfectly uniform flesh/suede side a little more variable. Nothing crazy, just wondering now if the brass bristles are too harsh on suede, or if I should have waited longer before brushing at it.

Aaaaaaaaaay, gurlfran'. My favorite class is probably my English class. That teacher is the chillest person I've ever met. I already told you about him, but I'll tell you again. I've written one paper the entire year. One paper! I've written more papers for my history class, which is sad. But yeah, this man makes English super fun.

This PR class is nuts.

What u/johnydangerous said. Even with little experience, there are plenty of YT videos that can help. I learned how to regulate my movements by simply watching YT videos...you'd be surprised how easy it is. If you don't already have the tools, get this kit from Amazon and you'll have more than what you'll ever need to work on your own watches. Save yourself the money in the long run! 😉

https://www.amazon.com/Ohuhu-Professional-PCS-Watch-Repair/dp/B00PVN1DC0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2HOTZY409XU3&keywords=watch+repair+kit&qid=1550198434&s=gateway&sprefix=watch+rep&sr=8-3

Yes you do, it is a 6 dollar [strap tool] (http://www.amazon.com/SE-Spring-Bar-Tool-5in/dp/B005ZEWGSA). It is honestly really easy to do, you just kind of wiggle your way between the strap and lug, and push down on the end to release it out of the hole. Imagine a really small toilet paper holder, that you need a tool for. That's it.

I would say I have pretty average sized wrists, I can't remember exactly the circumference. I also don't remember for the Seiko 5 bc I never used the original band. The reason why the watch looks big is because the dial takes up the majority of the face of the whole watch. The bezel is really small, so this in comparison to the Seiko 5 makes it look much bigger that what it really is. In reality, it is only 2 mm bigger measuring at a 39 mm face.

The same thing happened to me when I put it on at first, you will get used to it very quickly and it will look normal.

This reminds me that I've been forgetting to clean mine for the past few weeks... I normally clean it every two weeks or so using one of these and I'm always so impressed by how nice my ring looks afterwards! I'm sure a professional cleaning does a better job; but this is a nice, easy way to do it in between!

> i was wondering what i should get as a replacement. Still leather, and if yes, same color?

Seems versatile. I'd say google image search around and see what strikes you; e.g.:

lighter brown leather, contrast stitching?

tan leather, black stitching?

red leather?

mesh?

This watch has enough of a military feel that it could look good on a NATO strap as well, and those come in all colors and can be changed without a spring bar tool though you'll want to buy one of those anyway.

My point is, variety is good. It's like having more than one watch, but much much cheaper. Just make sure you get the right width (probably 22mm).

Also look at what people have done with their Sinn pilot watches, particularly the 656, which has a similar dial. If you wear leather shoes most days/at work, consider matching. Crown & Buckle is often a recommended place to start shopping.

Yep! I use these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000PEEAOS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01

They fit them perfectly. They're split at the front and are designed to expand when you push them into the shoe.

I've found I like to have a variety of bands on hand for my watches. I found this 22mm band at Walmart and adapted it to the buckle that came with the Zenwatch. I don't believe the black one on Asus' site is currently offered so if you want a black one that closely matches it, you could find a smooth black leather band and use this process to attach the buckle your watch came with.

If you're interested in a stainless band, I really like this 22mm Hadley Roma Stainless band I found on Esslinger.com for $22. Just make sure you have a pin pushing tool so you can adjust the links on it! This spring bar tool I bought includes a set of pins that worked

EDIT: after taking another look, it seems that band isn't carried on Esslinger anymore :(

I've had this one from Amazon for a couple years and it's nothing special but totally adequate to the task. There are nicer ones like this if you want them.

This is what i do:

First, i soak the ring in hot water + liquid dish detergent for 30 mins. Then, i use a pen with a soft brush to scrub all the nooks. Had my ring for a couple of years with no issues so far. I don’t think you need anything really strong - a lot of those machines are unnecessary. A good professional Cleaning once a year helps as well.

Connoisseurs 1050 Diamond Dazzle Stick https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00459VM6I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_71VfAb0DBPCZY

Prep your boots:

Knock back the finish a bit with some diluted dish soap and a scrub brush. Set them aside to dry.

Apply some Sno-Seal liberally with rag or brush. Allow to set. For the first coat, I like to hit it with a hairdryer to let it get into the leather's pores and all the nooks and crannies where boot meets sole.

Apply a second coat of Sno-Seal and wipe off the excess with a rag.

Now get an applicator brush, a polish brush and a wax matching the color of your boots. Kiwi is a good brand, I've been using it for years.

Swirl your applicator brush around in the tin of wax and then apply it to your boots in a vigorous circular pattern. Pay attention to the areas around the crevices (such as in the instep). Let it set for a few minutes and then brush it down with the polishing brush in a vigorous back-and forth motion. Do NOT rub hard with the polishing brush - you're trying to bring it to a shine / gloss, not rub it off.

With the base coat of Sno-Seal and a good layer of wax over it you should be good for all winter. Wipe off any dirt / snow / mud before storing them in the spring, then repeat the process above in the fall.

Source: Army veteran, live in the Pacific Northwest. Many of my boots are over a decade old or more.

EDIT

For anyone following along, I reconditioned my 16-year old Vasque Sundowner boots this morning as they needed it. Questions welcomed.

Simple Lexol conditioner will be more than sufficient the first time just to give the leather some life. Not sure how long they could've been sitting in the box before you purchased them. No need to go crazy with maintenance on those boots. Using a simple horsehair brush before each wear just to knock any dust off of them will be enough. Those boots are meant to take a beating, rain, dirt, mud, whatever - they'll be fine. No wax on them. Ever.

Leather conditioner is like the conditioner we put on our skin. Leather after all is skin, and it gets dried out. It just needs to get some moisture to it.

As far as a shoe tree - the one you linked is pretty nice and if you feel like spending the money for it that's fine. An inexpensive one like this will be more than sufficient..

I think Nordstroms half yearly sale may get you some pretty cheap shoe trees (~$15) too - may want to check over there first. The shoe trees are just there to provide some moderate shape to the boot. The leather is pretty thick on those and will be more than fine without it - but it'll keep any thick wrinkles from developing in the vamp. If you sweat a lot in the boots, the cedar provides some relief to the leather from the moisture build up.

I've been wanting to get a seaking like that. Real nice. The Borel is interesting too, do you have more info on it?
Lastly, the Borel and the Hamilton look pretty dinged up. They appear to be acrylic, you should look into polywatch.

Sorry to hear it, counter top has gotten one of my watches before too. In the past only thing that's worked for me was Polywatch, I've used it on a few watches before, glass and plastic with great results. I have not however used it on my Galaxy Watch so I can't comment on how well it'll work. Definitely worth a shot if that scratch is bothering you though. Or putting a screen protector on may hide it. Hope this helps!

Polywatch Plastic Watch Crystal Scratch Remover Polish Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3T237C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_u3ZpDbQWVS8HA

Good news! This has standard lugs/strap so you should be able to use a number of straps. You'll need a springbar tool to remove that strap (youtube can show you how to use this)

https://www.amazon.com/GGI-Spring-Bar-Tool-Set/dp/B005ZEWGSA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1495471528&sr=8-7&keywords=spring+bar+tool

Your watch lugs are 22mm apart, so that's the size of strap you'd need.

Any of these NATO straps would work:

https://www.cheapestnatostraps.com/collections/nato/22-mm

These two-piece zulu straps would be cool too:

https://www.cheapestnatostraps.com/collections/smart-watch-straps/22-mm

no need to get a whole new watch when you can just find a strap you like that will be better for the warmer weather.

Seems my first reply contained a link that wasn't allowed ... copied and pasted below with a different link ....

That should be hesalite - tap it with your fingernail and see if it's plastic or glass. If it's glass, then take it to a pro to polish out. If it's plastic, then it's really easy and you can do it at home in just a few minutes.

Now, given that the bezel looks great, cover it first with some low-tack masking tape. Rub the glass all over with 2000 grit wet and dry paper. It's going to look far worse before it looks better but have faith. There's no need to apply lots of pressure but 2000 grit wears out fast, so keep folding it over and keep sanding in a circular motion. Once all the big scratches are gone and you have a consistent "cloudy" glass, reach for this. I use a chamois leather but any clean cotton rag will do. Put a few drops on the glass and polish away. It won't take a minute to go from cloudy to as new.

If you haven't got the major scratches out, repeat all the above. After you're done this once, you'll get more confidence to do it again.

As for the servicing, I'm guessing with the LHD car that you're not in the UK? If so, can't really help on that one.

Lock Laces are what I use. They have been very helpful in taking off a few seconds from T2, and I have had no issues with them. Most people will set them up beforehand to a comfortable fit so all you have to do is slip them on when you're ready to run. No brainer for eight bucks =)

Yeah! Any 22mm band. Just make sure to order a spring bar tool if you are going to replace the band yourself. I would recommend going to a physical store to get the band so you can make sure that it will fit.

No guarantees, but Polywatch might be able to fix this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E3T237C/

I've used it on a cheap plastic watch and it came out perfect. It took a couple hours of gentle scrubbing. I'm not sure if it's worth the effort.

Yeah you can swap out straps until your heart is content. Pick up a spring bar tool and 20mm leather strap from Amazon and you should be good to go.

This is true! If it's the same model that I saw the crystal is Hesalite plastic! You should be able to easily remove most scratches with a bit of love and some Polywatch: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0014R9V9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1463377873&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=polywatch&dpPl=1&dpID=419qrOEjfNL&ref=plSrch

My best friend uses a dazzle stik on her moissanite engagement ring and it’s perfect even after years of use and abuse. (She’s a bank teller)

Something like that https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B016A8I8HC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484114606&sr=1-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=316Ha6GGVRL&ref=plSrch ? The price doesn't seems crazy, that would be a good investment!
Edit : or maybe more like that https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E4X06HA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484114606&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=51tJOOJ8TzL&ref=plSrch ?

Nah, get a Springbar tool they're cheap enough and you can swap out the straps in about 1 minute. Re-sizing a metal bracelet is hard but on a cheap watch I use a bobby pin and my bench vise and push the watch down on the needle and it pops the bar out easily. A price bracelet Id take to a jeweler and pay $5-10 to have them fit it, most do it for free though.

Diamond dazzle stick is the best thing I’ve found for a quick clean at home. It works so well!
Diamond Dazzle Stick

The Seiko 5 SNK795 is rather neat for the price. The red second hand is a nice touch. It comes with a bracelet, and you ought to be able to find a cheapish leather strap for it, along with the spring bar tool for DIY bracelet/strap swaps. All together, your total is under $100.

Leather is essentially dead skin. Like skin, it needs to be kept somewhat moist to prevent becoming brittle and cracking, but unlike living skin, it no longer receives nourishment, hence the whole point of doing this.

Keep in mind, "Less is more". Always aim for enough to cover the leather, but not enough to saturate it. Your boots will darken slightly, just like anything that acquires moisture.

If you don't follow any routine? Boots may last you a few years, maybe more, maybe less.
If you do follow a routine. Boots may last a few decades, maybe more, maybe less. They may outlast you!

• Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-100-Horsehair-Shine-Brush/dp/B0010TR6NE
  
  
  
• Applicator Brush: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Horsehair-Polish-Applicator-191-100/dp/B001ECZOKY
  
  
  
• Leather Cleaner (Haven't used this yet, but I've heard its fantastic. I've been using kiwi saddle soap). https://www.amazon.com/Leather-Cleaner-Honey-Accessories-Concentrated/dp/B00HU6N3LK
  
  
  *Leather Conditioner: https://www.amazon.com/Kiwi-Conditioning-Oil-2-5-74g/dp/B00N9CHI2O
  
  
  You can find everything you need at most department stores, but this should give you an idea of what the tools look like.

Just make sure to get the same lug width bracelet. Then buy this fella so you don't fall victim to exorbitant pricing. Just make sure to do your research for compatibility, but yes it can be done and very easily at that.

Yes, I recommend this one.

Also I got the gum sole one, they are the same thing just a different color. If you want water resistant, why dont you look at the LL Bean Duck Boots. I'm in Atlanta, it doesnt really snow here, but I have them for when it rains and they are awesome.

Buy a strap from wherever (hirsch is pretty good http://www.hirschstraps.com/collections/leather-hirsch-straps) and if there's a watch boutique or kiosk near you, they'll probably switch it out for free. Or you can buy a spring bar tool and do it yourself https://www.amazon.com/GGI-Spring-Bar-Tool-Set/dp/B005ZEWGSA

Posted this on the after dark thread but the more input the better:

"I Purchased Chamois Vibergs for a deal (imo) on ebay. Anything special I need to know about chamois? I picked up a brush but do I only use the rubber bristles? Waterproofing or protection? Any pointers would be appreciated."

Ooph, good purchase! Hopefully you were able to try some on before ordering. I had to buy about a full size down from my usual shoe size. And in case you missed my other comment/haven't considered what/how to care for them here's this copy/pasta: At the suggestion of multiple reddit users, I use this cleaner/conditioner and this brush, which have worked well enough for me.

I just bought a pair of Woodlore adjustable cedar shoe trees in medium from the US (online) and they are too big for my shoes. They are suited for sizes 8D-9.5D, however I found with my 8D shoes they applied too much pressure. I would say they are better suited for sizes 9D-10D.

I have only put them in my shoes once, and they are for all practical purposes brand new. Comes in original box and will be packed up securely.

I am looking for $20CAD plus whatever shipping is within Canada only. Paypal

Shoe Trees I Bought

I would see the leather care guide for specifics or if you want to polish them.

Generally, a horsehair shoe brush like this one and some conditioner like a bick 4 or whatever saphir product suits the leather on your shoes should be fine. Just remember to condition sparingly (once every 3-4 months tops).

Can't really answer this question specifically, but the band or bracelet is really a non-issue since they are easily swapped in and out with NATO straps or a strap of your choice. Just make sure you measure the band width correctly with the one you're replacing it with. Costs like $5 for the tool needed

For walking I really reccomend YakTrax on your boots. I live in Elmwood Village and unlike the other reply the sidewalks around me are very spotty, with some dry and clear and others covered in packed snow and ice. (Especially the sidewalks outside Red Cross surprisingly.) The traction cleats help you stay upright and stay on the sidewalk, though note they can be slippery indoors on hard surfaces. Please don't walk in the street no matter how much Buffalonians love to do that.

Don't know how well these work. Might be worth a look. Good luck!

Zipper laces.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008AKR5I2

Speed laces, like hoobidabwah mentioned. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007DLVLDY/

Lovely body and an awesome picture!

Oh, and you should get some Yaktrax - they will change your life when walking in the snow.

It looks like I can get the 8 oz bottle for 17.99 on amazon and then I could get a brush such as this one....

http://www.amazon.com/Shacke-Suede-Nubuck-Leather-Cleaner/dp/B00IIFFEPU/ref=pd_sim_309_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Gcr1ShzwL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0R2FYTGK2H8B7XN9PBY2

Or should I just stick with the kit that comes with a 4 oz bottle and a brush of its own? And a box of Mr clean magic eraser, because apparently that is also a good shoe thing to have.

I got my cat-loving friend a mug like this but maybe a ring cleaner like this, some nail polish and top coat, and the magazines?

Agreed! Even just a $20 one from Amazon is enough.
https://www.amazon.com/Ohuhu-Repair-Tool-Model-Watch/dp/B00PVNPSV2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1486405470&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Ohuhu+Repair+Tool+%28Model%3A+Watch+Press+Set%29&psc=1 that's the one I got and it works great!

and this kit has already paid itself off simply in bracelet sizings! https://www.amazon.com/Ohuhu-13-Watch-Repair-Opener/dp/B00PVN1DC0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1486405509&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=Ohuhu+13+Piece+Watch+Repair+Tool+Kit+Case+Opener+Spring+Bar+Tool+Set+Bonus+A+Hammer

Apparently they allow you to walk, jog and hike in snow and ice. They get pretty good reviews so they seem to work rather well.

Link - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0094GO6ZG/?tag=rf-ca-10-20

For bezels, check out 10watches or Yobokies, or even ebay.

As far as strap options go, the sky's the limit: leather, bracelet, rubber and NATO straps would all work well with that model.The jubilee style bracelet is very popular, NATOs can be found on cheapestnatostraps.com, and Hadley-Roma is good affordable bracelets and leather straps. You'll also want to invest in a spring bar tool for changing straps and bracelets.

Anyway, enjoy your new watch and be sure to stop by /r/seiko and show that bad boy off!

Ooooh, I love that. I'm gonna go against the grain and say I don't think it's THAT difficult to not ruin something like that with normal wear. You'll want to put some kind of suede protector on it immediately, but that should keep the worst at bay. I would avoid wearing a very dark colored, very heavy leather bag on one shoulder, because that might rub and leave discoloration. And maybe only wear it when you're out without your kiddos, like at work or on ~date night~, because I don't know how well even the best suede spray can protect against sticky little boy fingers.

Of course, if that just sounds like way more trouble than it's gonna be worth, just send it back! There will be other gorgeous jackets when your boys are older.

bergeon 6767-F is the best. As other people said, other ones on Amazon are okay, like this one, but like in all aspects of life.. you get what you pay for.

The Bergeon is far better build quality and feels sturdier. The cheap one I posted is decent, but it doesn't feel that well made and the tips aren't great. Someone said the Burgeon F for bracelets and some other model for other bands, but If you get the F model (one I posted) it will work find for leather/rubber bands. The other way around not so much, because the F has a finer tip. So if you're only getting one, get the Burgeon 6767-F

Source: I have both spring bar remover tools that I linked

I bought the cheaper one first thinking, how can there be a difference ? Ever since buying the Burgeon one, I haven't used the cheaper, crappier one. Go for quality

You could try Pink Miracle Shoe Cleaner, worked wonders on some of my old suede shoes that had years of no cleaning

Pink Miracle Shoe Cleaner Kit 8... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7NDT3A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

As an alternative to what /u/BluAnimal said, you could easily remove links from a metal watch band yourself. All you would need is one of these cheap tool sets and you're good to go. It's very easy to learn to use and you'll be able to adjust your metal bands whenever you want.

Yep. No need for explicit motorcycle branded boots when these with a pair of these is effective, easy to don and secure, and durable.

Not wearing explicitly for track racing or strictly high revving/speed riding either.

You could try using a product like Polywatch, which is used to fill scratches in watch crystals that are plastic. In theory, it would work the same. Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/Polywatch-Plastic-Lens-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0014R9V9O

Good ol' Scotchguard does the trick. I don't use it on my bags, but I spray my shoes and it works perfectly.

> brand name watch

All watches will have a brand name. Do you mean like a designer brand name? Because those will be garbage watches.

For $500 dollars and with no other information, I'd recommend buying a Seiko Sarb033 and whatever leather strap you want (I recommend the brand Hirsch), and a spring bar tool.

You should never buy a watch for the strap it comes on a) because most watches come on bad straps, even a lot of good watches, and b) you can just buy straps and put whatever strap you want on a watch.

If there's anything else about the style of the watch you want, like colour, size, etc, that would let us made more recommendations.

I've been using the Pebble Steel band from Best Buy without issues. I installed it myself and had to remove quite a few of the links, but still no cracks or any other issues at all. (Also to specify: I used the OEM spring bars)

The only thing I suggest is that you make sure you have the proper tools before trying to do any of this yourself. Honestly, you could probably do it with a tiny screwdriver, but I wouldn't suggest it. I used a spring bar tool that I bought from Amazon along with some patience and steady hands :)

No worries, thanks for the pic! Is this the tool you are referring to?

I honestly always thought I would be a SARB033 kind of guy, but man that white dial with the brown strap looks amazing. For the brown strap, can you comment on how much wear it has?

Finally for pricing, would you do $320 for the watch/strap bundle?

i went chea and got this, but ended up buying the things that it lacked, and cost more than if i had just bought this.

For me the second one was still incomplete, and i would need a larger screwdriver set, but its a great start.

I have a few of these that are my favorite. I'm sure someone else can chime in with something better though.

Amazon has some nice straps. I personally like the Hadley Roma straps. All you need to know is what width strap you'll be replacing. If you don't already have one, pick up a spring bar tool set while you're there. You could also put a NATO band on there, they seem to come in bright colors that should match the green.

Yeah sorry posted the wrong link - I did buy the 22mm:
http://www.crownandbuckle.com/harbor-22mm-black-calf.html

It's a particularly tight fit near the pin. You could probably cut/shave down the strap around the pin area to help. I also have this tool which definitely helps remove and reinsert the pin:
http://www.amazon.com/Spring-Bar-Tool-Set-5in/dp/B005ZEWGSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415762030&sr=8-1

I'm not sure I'd have done it without that.

Eu folosesc Kiwi 100% Horsehair Shine Brush.

Nu știu dacă e cea mai bună, dar asta folosesc eu și sunt mulțumit. A, da, și mă interesează foarte mult încălțămintea de calitate și am grijă de ea deci nu-s doar un noob care nu știe ce recomandă. Peria asta își face treaba și e ieftină.

Și dacă tot veni vorba, pentru bocanci recomand Fiebing's Yellow Saddle Soap și pentru bocanci negri recomand Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative și/sau Obenauf's Leather Oil.

Săpun doar pentru bocanci, nu pantofi, și Obenauf's stuff doar pentru piele neagră, o să schimbe culoarea altfel. Pentru pantofi sau bocanci la care nu vrei să se schimbe culoarea recomand refined coconut oil.

De evitat orice fel de cremă colorată. Aia e moartea pielii.

I've had good success cleaning my kill shots with these.

Shoe Cleaner by Pink Miracle 8 Oz. Bottle Kit Fabric Cleaner For Leather, Whites, Nubuck Boots, Sneakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7NDT3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qy43AbG9DMZJB

I used this to waterproof my Uggs. Water now beads off of them. :) Granted I haven't done gotten them wetter than flicking water at them to test the water proofing and light trekking across puddles to the garbage can, but it seems to work very well. I can only recommend for suede, as I tried it on my nubuck shoes and it didn't seem to make a difference, but that may just be me so I'm not sure.

Just saw /u/waffl6's page. I'm sorry to hear about your brother. There's no way around it, he's in for a world of hurt and hard work. Be there for him, even when he rejects it.

You don't seem to be looking for input on getting him on the bike, which is good, at this point. Here are some things I've posted in the past that may be relevant for you/him. I sincerely hope it helps. Feel free to PM me and we can talk or I can give you my email/phone number and I can talk to him directly.

Response to a rider who lost his arm and was in despair

Recounting my own accident and initial hospitalization

First post-accident track day video and associated discussion

A reminder of why we ride in the first place

Most people have to emulate Thomas the Train to be happy/successful in life, "I think I can, I think I can...." Your brother will need to have this mindset from now on

I'm sorry for what your family is going to go through for the next ~year. He will feel defeated, he will feel helpless, and he will probably lash out at you all, at one point or another. Do you best to take it in stride and support him. I am where I am today because my family taught me to look at every obstacle as a challenge and that defeat only exists in giving up - keep trying until you find solutions that work. For example, i only tie one lace on my shoe (half bow). It's fast and easy. Took me 3 months to figure out, though. I step on one lace and tied the other as normal. Your brother could put something heavy on the lace or get special lace like these

I think Woodlore trees on Amazon are pretty simple and effective. I personally don’t use trees in my suede boots though but I prefer the worn-in look for them. Given that, I also don’t protect them for the same reason.

Woodlore Adjustable Men's Shoe Tree,Cedar,Large (10 - 11 M US) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEEAOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ewggAbA018CS3

As long as they are made of cedar, most shoe trees are about the same. I wouldn't spend more than $20 or $25 for them. For shoe polish, I really like Meltonian. I started using it on recommendation by my cobbler, and it works great.

I've got a cheapo that is already wearing out after a couple dozen uses. It worked great at first, but the metal is pretty cheap. If you can swing the extra money, Bergeon is supposed to be the bee's knees. I think that will be my next.

polyWatch Watch Face Scratch Remover and Repair Polish https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E3T237C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MIUhDbBA9869J

Please see the above comment about the fact
It was probably just removing the coating. They were very light scratches but the photos are genuine - the difference is amazing

This is your best bet, I heard crep protect and other products sometimes cause discoloration.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003U47QBY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1447449816&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Tarrago&dpPl=1&dpID=41pPF0AQMrL&ref=plSrch

It was easy to put on since it was a one piece strap. Literally just slide it on.

edit:

I realized the vendor I posted has the watch on a two piece strap. This means you'll probably have to get some watch tool like this. But then again, the process of swapping out the band is super simple too. The bars holding the straps have springs and are collapsable.

This is just me thinking off the top of my head but a lot of guys who collect Swatch watches use something called PollyWatch to reduce the scratches on their precious watch faces. Can't see why that wouldn't work on a camera.
>^^^Always ^^^read ^^^the ^^^label. ^^^r/photography ^^^are ^^^not ^^^responsible ^^^if ^^^this ^^^makes ^^^things ^^^worse!

Solar powered watches are charged by any light - just keep it face up in a lit room when you take it off and it will never lose charge.

I have a Seiko 5 and the only time I need to adjust it is when i don't wear it for a couple of days and it stops - I have compared it against my phone and it keeps the right number for hours and minutes which is all I'm concerned about.

You can adjust the strap yourself easy enough https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=q2xrEgjchKk It might be better to get a tool like this though which you can get for a few dollars on eBay https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005ZEWGSA

Are there any good quality kits for replacing bands that aren't made of plastic? My dad's been modifying his watches for quite a while now and I've seen he's got a couple broken handles to the plastic band replacement.

I've seen stuff like this on Amazon, and they're the kind that he's got. Are there any full metal ones?

I've also found this on Amazon, but I'm not sure if it'll be as easy for taking out the links. Any recommendations?

If you're going to just be doing a one time thing just bring it to any local jewelry shop and they'll do it pretty cheap. If you're going to be buying watches often, then buy a hammer/punch set. Something like this will work fine: https://www.amazon.com/SE-JT6218-5-Piece-Watch-Band/dp/B002Q8AJSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494690837&sr=8-1&keywords=watch+resize

Mine haven't been repaired at all. I periodically rub a little Huberd's Shoe Grease on them when they look thirsty, and I try to brush them off if they're covered in fine sand or concrete dust or something like that, but otherwise, they pretty much just do what they're doing.

Looks tough as nails on that strap. I love vintage military watches. If i were you i'd get some polywatch and clean up that crystal on the watch.

Pretty sure your jeweler took out the pins and the sleeve that holds the pin tight fell out and he didn't know. If you don't have the sleeve then the pins will be loose. You can probably get new pins and sleeves from Moto.

I got the following kit to do it myself. Pretty simple job with the right tools.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q8AJSM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

looks like the little nub is gone for the quick release pin
link

they sell a tool on amazon link that might do it, or try one of the small screwdriver sets, you can get them at any home goods store something like this, i bought mine at Harbor Freight near where I live.

I can't see any holes from the angle of your photograph, but if it has the holes on the side you can get a tool kit from Amazon for $5. Here is a link to the one I used for my watch:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002Q8AJSM/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could also take it to pretty much any jeweler.

I've been looking at shoe trees. Do you think this one is better, or this one. Or do you have one that is better than both of those. Also, with the condition that my shoes are in, do you think that using a shoe tree now is too late for my shoes?

I got my sister one of these for a little present once. I also got one for my mom. Several days later, my sister remarked that the lip gloss I gave her made her mouth burn.

> Me: I didn't give you any lip gloss, what are you talking about?
> K: The one in the red tube.

I don't remember the last time my mom and I laughed that hard at my sister. About six months later, Amazon had those on lightning deal, and I sent her a link telling her that her favorite lip gloss was on sale.

That's how I taught my kids as well.

Mostly though, they love these things - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007DLVLDY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For suede, the first and the safest step is always dry brushing, a brush like this. Don't use any detergent or stain remover, just lightly dry brush on the spot, I have 3 pairs of suede shoes and this method works well for cleaning dry stain/ dust/ lint.

Oh I forgot the link:

Pink Miracle Shoe Cleaner Kit 8 Oz. Bottle Fabric Cleaner for Leather, Whites, and Nubuck Sneakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A7NDT3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IoUZDb3T535SA

The cheap tools are more than fine.

The twisty thing works great but as another poster noted, pins don't always go back in easily, so you need the hammer.

Just buy this guy and call it a day:
http://www.amazon.com/16-PCS-Watch-Tool-Kit/dp/B000T9VK56

I don't know what you're looking at, but you can pickup a bucketload of spring bars for less than $20. They're all different sizes. You can either measure it yourself, or when you purchase aforementioned bucket of spring bars, you get all sorts of different sizes.

Do you know of a good shoe tree? I don't see what to look for at Red Wing Heritage website. I got a Moc Toe if that changes anything. I'm wondering if there are better options than the best seller at Amazon

I've seen a number of redditors praise Polywatch

https://www.amazon.com/Polywatch-Plastic-Lens-Scratch-Remover/dp/B0014R9V9O

Obviously only take the polywatch action if Oculus support don't help you out.

Once fixed maybe contemplate putting lens protectors on. These ones worked for my Quest which I believe has similar lenses to the Rift-S.

https://imgur.com/a/jGDzyf2

Buy a cedar shoe tree. You just stick them in your shoes right after work. The natural cedar wood absorbs any excess moisture or odor and they leave your shoes expanded and smelling like fresh cedar.

Changed my life.

Just to be clear, this is a horsehair brush. On the other hand, this is a horse hairbrush. You want the former, not the latter.

It's pretty easy. You just need a spring bar tool to remove the strap

http://www.amazon.com/Spring-Bar-Tool-Set-5in/dp/B005ZEWGSA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419285713&sr=8-1&keywords=spring+pin+tool

This. I had two tiny white gold spheres put in the inside of the ring and I did develop a callus. Luckily it is in the inside of the finger fold, so no one sees it and it did stop the ring from spinning.

I use this for cleaning. You have to wet the pen and rinse it out but the long but firm bristles help for the cleaning of an elevated or intricate setting.

I’ve used this cleaner on my hubby’s white vans and it got them pretty clean. A lot of people swear by the Jason Markk cleaner though. I definitely would not put them in the wash because it’ll ruin the rope part of the espadrilles.

Y'all - it's leather. You wouldn't give up on a pair of shoes this easily, would you?

Apply a light coat of tinted leather cream to the scuff, buff off the excess with a soft cloth. Then, spray a little Lexol conditioner on a clean cloth and give it a wipe.

Might not be perfect, it might still show as a little more matte than the rest of the cover, but should be much improved.

Its really easy to do yourself-I watched a youtube video the first time. The tool is $6 or so on amazon here. The strap will cost anywhere from $15 to several hundred, depending on which you get. Crown and buckle is a popular vendor here.

So should I use mink oil, or not? Is it for something completely different?

So far, it looks like I'm getting this, this, and this. Should I get a shoe conditioner like this, too?

I know you mentioned a small flathead screwdriver, but I've been using this set since my Pebble days. The notch in the pin pusher is good for preventing the pusher from slipping and scratching the watch, and holding onto the pin once it releases so it doesn't fly across the room. The pin remover is also not bad for removing links on metal bands.

Thanks. Here's a like to the 6767f for others convenience Bergeon 6767-F Watch Spring Bar Tool - Long Stainless Steel Handle with Replaceable Screw In Fine Tool End https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IZT8R2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sQK8ybCSFSC1B