Reddit mentions: The best coaxial car speakers

I have an extremely similar setup in my 1999 Ski Nautique, minus the tower. I would have loved help picking out equipment/installing, but didn't have any available, so had to learn as I went.

Head Unit - I basically got the older version of this. Make sure what you get has 6 pre-outs Head Unit $120

Amp - Go with a 5 channel amp to save space, I bought this one Polk 5 Channel $280

Speakers - 2 sets of these, which sound incredibly clear Polk 6.5 $250

Sub - I put together a sub from components. You will need sub, box, and grill. I'll link the sub I got but don't remember the box or grill. Went with 10 inch to save space, but it sounds great and is clear/sloud. Sub Around $120

Speaker Wire - Went with 14 guage, not sure what others would recommend here Wire $25

Amp Kit - Not sure what difference is between grades with these Kit $33

Basically, I had about the same budget, and it came to about $800-$900, I think prices have changed a bit since then.
I really went with clarity over loudness because I can't stand turning up the radio and hearing distortion, but this setup is both clear and very loud. I have gotten a lot of compliments on it.

To add tower speakers later you will probably need another amp, and maybe an alternator, not totally sure on that, if someone else has more advice.

Let me know if you have any questions, and hope this helps. Good luck!

Do you want it to get loud or do you care about sound quality(staging and imaging)? Aftermarket speakers will definitely sound better but you could lose midbass due to the fact that they are optimized for using an amp and the factory speakers most likely have some filtering involved to boost the bottom end. You can overcome this with an amp and also doing some sound deadening.

Component sets are definitely a better option compared to money spent on Coaxials. You can get a $500 set of components that sound great or a $200 set of components and do some treatments and have an awesome set up.

With $500 to spend I would use half for speaker and the rest on deadening. I personally like Image Dynamics or Morelyou can get great sets of those around the $200 mark. You can do a modest amp. Something like the Zapco. then spend the rest on fastrings and deadener. You dont have to go to the nth degree with deadener but adding some CLV and sealing up the holes will go along ways.

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

As someone who spent an inordinate amount of time completely gutting his 9-3 Aero's sound system, I'm more than happy to offer a handful of tips for this. I dug about forever trying to find walk-throughs and info, but I'll be damned if that wasn't a tedious process. Also, if you need any further help, feel free to PM me, I'm a wealth of knowledge on this, sadly.

Anyhow, a couple of things:

• Firstly, and surprisingly, I found that after removing and replacing all of the factory speakers in the car, the pair that by leagues made the most significant impact on the overall sound were the 3.5" component speakers in the dash. The stock units offered laughable bass response and sounded tinny as hell, they always bugged me the greatest. Take those suckers out (only 2 screws per each, aligned to where they're fairly easy to remove), use a flat-headed screw driver to pop the tweeters out, and drop in these suckers. Yes, they are coaxial (i.e., no separate tweeters), but don't bother with an additional pair of tweeters, these Infinity's are far better than any equivalent setup, least of which the stock setup.
  
  
• Next, the door speakers. These proved to be the most time-consuming, not least of which the way they are mounted. Once you have the door cards out (great guide here), you'll find the speakers mounted on the door card itself, as opposed to being set into the door frame. Now, whatever speakers you go for (definitely choose coaxial in this case, a component setup in the doors is a complete nightmare), keep in mind you only have 2 1/2" depth to set the speakers, so be careful when choosing your kit. I went with these guys from Boston Acoustics. Now, while they're no longer selling this model, just go for their new-model 6.5" coaxial, or the similar offering by Infinity Kappa. In my experience, Boston Acoustics and Infinity Kappa (owned by Harman/Kardon, no less) offer the best experience in after-market car audio, touting (in my opinion) the best and brightest midrange and high, with tight, accurate bass. Anyhow, unless you're planning to amp the setup, this is all you really have to do. However, if you are planning to add an aftermarket amp, tackling this is a whole new animal. You're looking at pulling the factory amp out from under the seat and bypassing it, something I can walk you through should you need to.
  
  
• Lastly, the rear deck. You have slots for the 6x9's for the Arc and Aero and slots for 4" speakers for the Linear and Vector models. I only replaced the 6x9's, and used a pair of Rockford Fosgate Component speakers, which I somewhat regret. The best option for these speakers (again, in my opinion) are Inifinity Kappa's 693.9i 6x9 coaxials, the bass response is unprecedented (deep, full, and crisp), and the highs are brilliant. These are by far and away the trickiest to mount, caused me quite a bit of frustration and still do. Each 6x9 is set by 4 screws at each corner, but each speaker is pushed so close its respective rear pillar that two of the screws are almost wholly inaccessible. Either find yourself a trick screwdriver that can be used in extremely tight places, or do what I did and simply use a set of pliers to remove the two hidden screws from the bottom of the rear deck.
  
  This all aside, you may want to consider some sound deadening, particularly in the rear deck, especially if you plan on amping the setup. People say go with dynamat, but shit's expensive, and better alternatives are out there. Personally, I took the decidedly ghetto route, and cut out a foam mattress pad to size and set it in the deck. Also, you'll want to kill the rattling coming from the third brake light over the rear seats, you'd be astonished at how much cabin noise that crappy plastic cover is responsible for. Use weatherstripping to cover that damned thing on the inside, and just place it back, problems solved. Anyhow, thanks for making me feel useful today, have upvotes!

High chance your speakers are blown. Dodge speakers only last about 10 years before the foam surrounds dry out and start to fall apart, leaving you with a cone that rattles around whenever there's bass.

Your truck has 6.75" speakers front and rear with a triangle mount (3 screws). Most aftermarket speakers are 6.5" with 4-screw mounting. Some speakers come with the adapters, but if they don't, you can always get a set from Metra. They're not strictly needed, you can just make your own holes, but it makes life easier.

You can pick up 4x Pioneer A-series speakers for about $87 shipped right now on Amazon.. They're pretty decent in terms of sound quality, excellent build quality, and will work great with just radio power. I guarantee it will sound a whole ton better than what you have now, and will likely last longer than the truck does.

First polyfil (pillow stuffing) the sound bar. Can be found in any sewing/craft section or store and is cheap. Do not pack too dense. You unscrew the speakers and stuff the fill on the space behind them. This will give more depth to your sound.

Kicker makes a direct fit replacement for you. I went with an Infiniti setup, they fit, but I had to add my own mounting holes. It is easy, but, direct fit is easier.
You can always spend more but these will get you in the door.

Soundbar: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004SUO5QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1453788771&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=jeep+kicker+speaker+upgrade&dpPl=1&dpID=414npO2O69L&ref=plSrch

Dash: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_2064CSS654/Kicker-40CSS654.html?tp=106

As for subs a single 10" (even some 8's) in a "truck box" will give you the missing low end. You will retain your cargo space and much easier to take out if you need to load up. Or should someone decide they need your subs more than you, it will be cheaper to replace. Of course you could do a 12" or double up on anything...I was young once and competed in many audio events. If you want to go nuts let's talk.

As for your head unit. Head over to www.crutchfield.com and poke around. Many use Crutchfield to see what fits then shop around for a better deal. If you purchase from them you will many time receive all the wiring and mounting hardware +phone support.

If you are newer to modifying things your stereo is a good entry into learning how things work. Feel free to hit me up if you need to talk through anything.

I just bought a '14 GT which is essentially the same internals as the 2011. I went with these Polk DB571's. Took me about an hour and a half to install, but it all went flawlessly and they sound incredibly better than the stock crap that came with it. Sync calls now sound clear and nice whereas before they were muffled and flat. They do not need an amplifier and they are so much better than stock.

Also make sure you buy 2 of these as well so you don't have to do any fancy wiring. Each pack comes with 2. And also a set of these so you don't damage anything taking the doors and trunk shelf apart.

Here is a crazy useful video on how to install them.

Total cost for two sets of speakers and tools to install them, about $130. This is of course assuming you have a ratchet set available.

Yeah, having Bluetooth or an Aux was the deal breaker on wanting to switch to something new. I was going to buy a single din Pioneer stereo, but I'm glad I found the Blaupunkt stereo instead.

I installed these polk speakers a while back and it was a huge improvement over stock. Adding in the new stereo made it that much better.

I always wondered if there was a way to add Bluetooth without a new head unit, but was a bit lazy on figuring it out. Good luck!

Front speakers
Rear speakers
Subwoofers
5,000 Watt Amplifier

Thanks to Amazon's amazing customer support, the two subwoofers ended up being free. The head unit allows 55 watts to each of the four interior speakers and the amplifier is solely for the subwoofers. I think the subwoofers, despite being fairly cheap, sound really nice and give a TON of thumping fun, despite me mostly leaving them on low. The dedicated volume knob for the subwoofers is located on the dashboard, attached to one of the air vents and is directly above the head unit.

When buying front speakers, be prepared to make modifications to the frame and possibly the bracket that supports the speakers themselves. I had to drill new mounting holes in each of the brackets after full removing the dashboard and everything involved just to make it so that they would fit into place... barely. As for the rears, the stock mechanism and covers for the speakers has a really small place for the bottom magnet, meaning I had to drill into the rear deck in order to mount them. If you don't want to have to do this, be sure to take note of how big the magnet is and see that it will fit in the holding bracket or modify the bracket.

The only reasonable place for the hole in the firewall was on the driver's side footwell, directly next to the steering column. The passenger's side has no easy location to drill into, and I recommend you figure this out before running all of the wires on that side just to remove them and place them on the left... like I did. Do also be warned that the rear seats are mounted in place with metal that is fairly weak and will bend very easily. My rear seats didn't return to their original position at all, but with time and a lot of strength (and friends) pushing on it as hard as possible the frame has bent mostly back into place.

Listening for yourself is best, as what sounds good can be awfully subjective... that said, these are really good for the price. I compared them directly to these kicker and polk db571 and they were far superior to the kicker and I liked them better than the polk.

Coaxial speakers just means that the tweeter and woofer and built together, so you only have to install one thing. Components come with an external crossover(sends bass+mid to woofer, high end to tweeters) that everything connects to, which lets you place the separated tweeters in a separate location.

Dunno if your particular focus has seperate tweeters, or coaxial speakers, see if this video is your car. If it is then the size looks like 6"x9", which would be great if you like bass because 6x9 speakers are the next best thing to a dedicated sub-woofer.

Don't see any well-known brands of 6x9 speakers on Halfords, but Amazon.co.uk has some nice looking choices. Like these JBLS, if they will fit.

You'll have to take time to do a little research, to know what the exact size is. Or rip off the door panel and break-out the tape-measure.

Shame on r/moto for downvoting a legitimate question. If you don't like how others customize their bikes then just move on.

Certified audio visual technician, I can help with the speakers. If you're going to use the speakers when your bike is off, you need to fit an extra or larger battery into your bike. Recommend at least a 12AH (amp hour) deep cycle battery for the "extra" or anything larger than your current battery for a single one. Forget everything you were told about wattage. Wattage != loud. You want Db rating. Db rating = how loud a speaker is in decibels with 1 watt of power to it. You have to double the wattage every time to get 3 more db. 400 watts vs 100 watts is only 4 decibels louder in the same speaker, or, a barely noticeable difference.

On the cheap end I recommend:
>Any head unit you prefer with a least 20watts per channel or this https://www.amazon.com/Lepai-LP-2020A-Tripath-Class-T-Amplifier/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582501&sr=8-1&keywords=lepai If you're cool with just using an aux cord straight from your phone into an amp.

>And these speakers: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-DS693-3-Way-Speakers-Pair/dp/B004K5AZAQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582569&sr=1-5&keywords=6x9+speakers 92db with 1 watt. 20 watts is plenty to crank it them to 104 decibels. 50watts to about 108 decibels.

Pricier but the best bang for your buck:

>Head unit of your choice (doesn't need any wattage)
>This amplifier https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-PAD2000-2-2-channel-Amplifier/dp/B0060AVWRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1485582960&sr=1-1&keywords=polk+d2000.2 ignore the reviews, solid amp, people just don't know what they're doing.
>these speakers https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-KS693-Inch-3-way-Speakers/dp/B004OAWLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582825&sr=8-4&keywords=kicker+ks+6x9 or these https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485582858&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+6x9

All speakers are water proof and very durable. I recommend 6x9s for maximum listening pleasure. Don't forget to wire a switch to cut power from the amp and headunit when you don't need them.

I have a 08 elantra I put the exact same Kenwoods in the rear doors. They sound great on the factory head unit, no distortion. Unlike the 60w RMS polks I have in the front doors which do distort (got to get an amp for those).

I did gain a bit of clarity and fidelity by swapping the stock speakers out for the kenwoods, but they are nowhere near as good as the polks; even though they are unamped.

Also as a side note, I got those Kenwood 1666 on amazon for $21, maybe you can too. It was about a month ago though.

edit: Found the Link they're actually $2 cheaper than when I got em.

edit2: beware, these didn't come with an adapter ring in the box. Might be something to consider when deciding to order from amazon. I'm pretty sure crutchfield includes them for free.

I've had good luck with the Rockford Fosgate Punch series of co-ax's. I also strongly recommend applying a small amount sound deadener (Noico from Amazon is good and cheap) around the area you are installing the speakers and a foam fast ring kit around each speaker. I have went this route on a couple of factory systems and it made a major improvement - all of these upgrades should be within your stated budget.

Links:

Speakers
Deadener
Fast rings

These are my recommendations. Are your 6x9's old? Because, they are cheap speakers, but they still shouldn't distort like that.
Some good 6x9
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN2TGM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1398354095&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Some good 6.5" rounds
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003KN2TF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1398354234&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70
Finally you said you wanted to maybe add a second 15"? This amp has 2 channels, so you could add the second some at any time. As for knowing if it is 2 or 4 ohms, you can use a digital multi meter (dmm) to measure the impedance in the sub. This is a 2 ohm amp, but a 4 ohm isn't hard to find.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CYL7LW/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1&qid=1398354444&sr=8-12
I hope this helps!

Just installed these in my 2000 a week ago. It took 15 minutes, and all I needed was a Phillips screwdriver and the new wiring harness


Kenwood KFC-1666S Sport Series 300W 6.5" 6-1/2 in 2-Way Flush Mount Car Speaker / 2 Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HJB67X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ua45AbZ2WTWPH


Metra 72-9300 Speaker Connector for Select Mazda/Nissan Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002BETHC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ff45AbQBSREC4

Let me know if you need any help, it was pretty straightforward though. Best of luck!

The key to getting "good volume" from a head unit is picking a set of speakers that have a good/high efficiency rating.

The key to picking a "good sounding" set of speakers is listening to your options once you narrow down a few sets that have a good efficiency rating. Considering that good sounding is subjective that part is completely up to you.

Finding a set of after market speakers that aren't going to be underpowered by a head unit can be difficult. That's because most quality after market speakers require more power primarily because most people upgrade to an amplifier while also paying a premium price for a speaker upgrade.

These following 6x9 speakers would be my pick for a low wattage high efficiency driver that would make the most of you head units power. If you notice the following pages will offer a package deal for the matching 6.5's

Pioneer TS-A6995R Car Speaker - Set of 2 (1 pair) (Discontinued by Manufacturer) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0LUG30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GjrzxbG0605JM

Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bnrzxbDXEQMEW

Thank you very very much! This will help me get started!

When I was doing work in my trunk of my car I noticed that the rear speakers seemed easily accessible, and I'm more interested in replacing those anyway so I think I'll start with those.

I was thinking about getting these to replace the stock ones.

Thank you again for all the information!

A lot of people are suggesting you build a pc, and I suggest you to build one too! My previous PC Build was good enough to run iRacing and, Including a BenQ monitor, cost around the £600 mark. I'll post my specs however some of the parts may be discontinued so I'll try and source similar components if they are.

Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P

AMD (Piledriver) FX-6300 3.50GHz

ASUS GTX 750Ti

Ballistix Sport 8GB (2x4GB)

500W EVGA 80+ White Rated PSU

DVD Re-Writable(For Installing Windows)

1TB Seagate Barracuda Hard Drive

BitFenix Comrade Midi Tower


BenQ 22inch Monitor

Let me know if want any of the peripherals(Keyboard/Mouse etc) aswell

Total Cost = ~£543

You might be able to find components cheaper on different websites, especially American based ones(NewEgg).

As for assembly, I followed a tutorial from popular Battlefield YouTuber, JackFrags. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WQxr59KRto He uses old components but the build is more or less the same than the specs above.

You also may want to upgrade the Graphics Card, RAM or CPU. I recently upgraded the 750Ti to a 1060 3GB, FX 6300 to a FX 8350 and RAM by an extra 8GB. Remember, if you do upgrade anything like this, you will most likely need a bigger PSU.

Have fun building :P

Edit: As Raptord put, you should also think about getting a Ryzen CPU. But keep in mind, you would need to get a different motherboard as Ryzen uses an alternative socket to AM3+

Super, thank you also for confirming the speaker is a 8 ohm 3 watt.

For an L-Pad I am looking at this: https://www.ebay.com/p/Eminence-Overspx-lpad-L-pad-Assembly-Kit/1500346869

Basically I like the fact it is more flush mount. Now to find some really nice 4 ohm speakers... Maybe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

• locker. with a soft top you may want to be able to leave something expensive in your jeep with some peace of mind. any kind of locker that affixes to the vehicle and is made of metal. lots on amazon.
  
  
• kicker speaker upgrades, they are a direct replacement, and sound much better for a good price.
  
  
• interior LED light replacement, you can get a drop in LED dome light replacement at your local shop that will let you actually see inside when you need to.
  
  
• mopar gas cap cover, if yours doesn't have one.
  
  
• little stick-on wide angle mirrors, big help for blind spots. they're everywhere and cheap, find one you like and put on one or both mirrors in the corner.

It would be difficult to find a proper headunit with a cassette, but i can give you a few items to go by.

Headunit - DEH-150mp

(dash kit, wiring harness and antenna adapter of course)

keeping budget in mind, and that that car has 4 4x8 sized speakers, i would get two sets of these adaptors to allow for 5.25 speakers.
I personally use 2 sets of Polk db522
and for the money they sound decent.

You could leave it like that and it would be enjoyable or you can go the extra step and get something like a RF4 channel amp, with amp install kit and be right around your 500 mark.

Keep in mind that i am far from an expert. Just wanted to give you a direction.

I am looking to replace the speakers, curious if anyone has Polk Audio DB522 DB+ Series 5.25" https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EZWFNKA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1DXN92KCKEQV4&psc=1

depth wise should they fit? I like the idea of having them at least be able to resist a bit of water as I know myself, I will drive with the top down in the summer even if its raining a bit.

edit: it's a 1990.

According to the specs for those speakers, 20 watts RMS just barely hits the minimum amp requirements. I've driven plenty of 6.5" speakers off just the head unit with great results, but these 7.7" will probably be a bit more power hungry especially if you try to turn up the bass. If you already bought them, then my thoughts would be to give them a shot with just the Clarion and see how they sound. If you do hear them clipping at higher volumes, you can either choose to turn down the bass, or add an amp.

If you don't want to add an amp, and you have not actually purchased those speakers yet, you might want to consider some slightly more standard 6.5" speakers. It would save you alot of money and sound just as good.

And if you are going through the trouble of adding an amp to get proper power and bass out of those 7.7s, why not save money by going with the 6.5s and add a sub-woofer too and get much better bass?

The Harmon speakers sound fantastic, I just didn’t see it worth the $3k package it comes with lol

The kickr tweeters, speakers, and sub is an optional upgrade you can buy at the dealership or on Amazon (click me)

I highly recommend getting a headunit if you can find a deal on one and if you want to challenge yourself with a DIY install. I’ve never installed one in my life but it was a fun experience.

Go the easy route and order some Kickers off Amazon. $60 for the set, plug and play, and sound great. Kicker Speakers

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/p_46055_JBL_GX962.aspx?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=Product_Feed&utm_campaign=google_shopping_Price_Comparison&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIl-e13MeT3gIVT1qGCh0gdAIxEAQYCSABEgL0QPD_BwE

Above is gx series. A little over 2 ohms but 94 dB so should be ok.

JBL GTO939 GTO Series 6x9" 300W 3 Way Black Car Coaxial Audio Speakers Stereo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KN2TGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mYLYBbDP4CDHQ

3 way gto series which is similar to what I had, I had the 2 ways as I felt that 3way can just be marketing talk at this level. There may be better deals out there.

I can't recall but I may have replaced the dash speakers with gtos as well, been a couple years.

Rockford Fosgate R169X3 Prime 6" x 9" 3-Way Full-Range Coaxial Speaker (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_a.VQDbK4F8CMZ

These will fit in the stock speaker holes in the doors. I know they look round but the factory speakers are actually 6x9 and paper garbage. These will open up the soundstage quite a bit in the Patriot. You can even find some adapters on crutchfiled to make them true plug and play. The stock speaker covers come off without removing the whole door panel and you can screw these in.

As far as loudness the stock unit will drive these at Max volume and while they will be clear you are not blowing out any windows so a new head unit would be in order for more volume.

Subs I can't help you with but I have seen a few write ups where people built one into the rear side compartment where the little cargo pocket is.

You could try and find a set of the flipdown tailgate speakers in a junkyard or on eBay. I know they can be added but you do have to replace the whole rear door panel for it so sourcing the parts from a pick and pull would most likely be the cheapest route.

I would like to replace the HU, but no one locally has worked on a 2017 Forester w/ the Eyesight, Starlink, and all of the collision avoidance they build into the cars. I think this is definitely the best route, but I would like a few more opinions, especially anyone who has done it already.

I used the term "tweeter" loosely. It's hard to tell exactly what they are, as they have passive crossovers built into them. They are literally designed to be plug and play. They may actually be closer to midrange than a true tweeter.

Amazon Link To Speaker

There is the link for what they are.

This is my build which I posted on Facebook a few days ago, before I add subwoofer, so far less than $500, I'm still building it ..

--

Tonight's window-shopping shopping cart for my first audio upgrade from 2016 WRX base OEM audio. Includes amp, speakers, and noise suppression. This seems like a really good starter build for less than $500. Looking for feedback.

DS18 SLC1800.4 DS18 Select SLC-1800.4 1,800 Watts Four (4) Channels Amplifier
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IDI0D3K/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00IDI0D3K&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=TLRSTER62FWVZ4YI

• affordable clean wattage
  
• 80 watts per channel matches customer recommendations for the Alpine speakers
  
  Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Component Car Speakers + Alpine Sps-610 6.5" 2 Way Pair of Coaxial Car Speakers
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0059AK2T0&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=PXNDF7S6RPBZPEKP
  
  Rockford RFK4X 4 AWG Complete Amplifier Install Kit
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012BYOSK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0012BYOSK&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=2GAGDGGKMRWMHURO
  
  Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector for Select Toyota Vehicles
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BBP7Y/ref=as_li_tl…
  
  50 Sq Ft Noico Self-adhesive Foil & Butyl Mat 50 Mil Automotive Sound Deadening Insulation for Cars & Truck (Audio Dampening & Deadener Installation)
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URR4O5I/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00URR4O5I&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=Q7FJEOPI6QOBHJKL
  
  Noico Metal Barrel Roller Installation Tool
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015WJH4ZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B015WJH4ZW&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=WNEQ67NXUPTXMY4T
  
  BAFX Products® - Decibel Meter / Sound Level Reader - W/ Battery
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ECCZWWI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ECCZWWI&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=UV3UKNSI24GV7E3Q
  
  
• to measure the noise levels before and after installing the Noico mat
  
  Dayton Audio iMM-6 Calibrated Measurement Microphone for iPhone, iPad Tablet and Android
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ADR2B84/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ADR2B84&linkCode=as2&tag=headsense-20&linkId=XCRDPQNFVK6NFAAN
  
  
• to calibrate the HU EQ after the amp and speakers are installed

Get these instead of the Kicker's

Polk Audio DB461P 4-by-6-Inch Coaxial Plate-Style Speakers (Pair, Black)
http://amzn.com/B000P0NJOO

And these instead of the JVC's

Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver)
http://amzn.com/B000P0R6KW

For $15 more, you'll get better sound. Although, if you prefer to use Crutchfield, I'm sure you'll be happy (for the time being) with those.

Here are the parts I'm considering so far

2 sets of these for all 4 doors

Alpine SPS-610C 6-1/2" Component 2-Way Type-S Speaker System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004THAWHG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kqsnyb7A57SH7


These 6x9 for rear deck

Polk Audio DB691 6-by-9-Inch 3-Way Speakers (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WusnybVYBR8YD



This for getting signal to amp. Not sure if complete overkill for my goal setup.

AudioControl LC7i Black 6-Channel Line Output Converter with Bass Restoration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATHBO86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bwsnyb2TGNBDW



And this subwoofer. I might go with 2 of them when I add them to my car.

Rockford Fosgate P3D4-12 Punch P3 DVC 4-Ohm 12-Inch 600-Watt RMS 1200-Watt Peak Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UFHXNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kysnybS8CXRZS

Like stated above I have no idea on the amplifier. I would like to have it power my speakers and subwoofer, so I'm guessing a multi channel would be better? In the end i would like to have a woofer and tweeter per door, 2 rear deck 6x9, and a subwoofer or 2. Please let me know if anything needs to change. I'm open to all opinions and suggestions.

I bought a pair of these: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bzVDzbKZAHRXN

And something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00T9DX538/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tAVDzbFYVYR9R

Then covered them with speaker grills.

Works really well and gets decent sound while not costing too much money and it was way easier to setup than tearing apart old computer speakers.

I never put in a sub nor did I fully think it was worthwhile.

I have used this in the past for an arcade machine:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-Home-Mini-Audio-Amplifier/dp/B0071HZ5EQ/ref=sr_1_23?ie=UTF8&qid=1542249390&sr=8-23&keywords=amp+pyle&dpID=51lERL5XyrL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

It's a bit light, but it worked pretty well with this pair of car speakers:

​

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-CH6530-Car-Speakers/dp/B000J1FABY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542249440&sr=8-3&keywords=boss+car+speakers&dpID=419kc1idC3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Alright how about these? [6.5"] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0NJPS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AU0M4NIMM9WRQ)
[6x9] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P86SE8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)
[Head unit] (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_43586_Kenwood-KDC-352U.html#tabs)
The head unit is on $15 more on sonic than amazon so i figure its worth it to have all of the free instal accessories.

Try these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018SJ4AK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HL0UAG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed those and am very happy with the results. Mine is a 2000 9-3 SE. Cheers!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0059AK2T0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just stuck these into my brothers car this weekend with an 80wrms amp. It sounds incredible. And for an everyday setup(not competition/show off car) they are pretty loud and clear. Plus, it leaves you with $250 to find an amp. Crutchfield reccomends putting 6.5's into the front door using an adapter bracket because the stock ones are 6x9. But the back door is already 6.5. so thats an option!


But like everyone else said. Buy it all at once and take your car apart only once. It just makes life easier and you break less clips, trim, screws etc.

It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.

This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.

I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.

I vote for Polk db series, components or coax speakers. The older db models are being replaced with newer versions, so you can get great deals on them right now.

Disclosure: I have a set of the 6.5" Polk db 6501 components and they really perform well.

Are you on FB groups? Nick from New Provisions Racing can hook you up with a deal on the door speakers, they don't have the tweeters.

​

Tweeters.

​

Doors.

​

Just be sure to go on Subaru and DOUBLE CHECK that the part #'s on the Amazon listings match the model you need for your model and trim level and such. I'm 90% sure those links are a match, but you should def check just to be sure.

I wouldn't even buy a kenwood amp, but if I were in your position, and wanted better sound without breaking the bank, here's what I'd do.

4 of these($80/pair) on this amp($149). I'm no expert though, but that'd run you about $310, and I've heard good things about Polks DB series.

is this monitor any good? https://www.amazon.co.uk/BenQ-GW2270HM-Eye-Care-Monitor-Flicker-Free/dp/B01JIQ82OW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/261-5770464-8814137?ie=UTF8&qid=1540125041&sr=1-1&refinements=p_89%3ABenQ&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=41tPjJBqyeL&ref=plSrch

it suits my needs and is only £80 so i just wanna make sure if i should go for it or not

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-Coaxial-Stereo-Speakers-TS-A1676R/dp/B0195J6DF2/ref=asc_df_B0195J6DF2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242029049757&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5767559774926063939&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1013962&hvtargid=pla-569841855104&psc=1

If you’re running off the head unit, get these! You can do better off an amp, but 110% recommend for just a speaker upgrade

I'm working with pretty limited space, but what if I installed something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JEC0YFQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A5ZRC4DPYV13E&psc=1

Along with this for the front speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Crutchfield-150Hz-Bass-Blocker-pair/dp/B0761TYTVR/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1520125840&sr=1-1&keywords=150+hz+bass+blocker&dpID=51PSof3jEuL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch



--------

On a side note, I do have two of these sitting around that I could swap out in the front, if it'd be any better....

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P86SQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The older dell soundbars that attached under monitors had decent sound. I had used one on my old bartop. New ones don't have AC adapter like the old ones. Run off USB power.

Otherwise it's an amp and speakers like these. I used these in my full size arcade build:
4in Speakers and


Amp

I just put these in mine and they are night and day better than stock:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're plug and play so no extra wiring or anything of that nature.

Your car is the same as mine, except mine is an automatic :(

Anyway, it looks fantastic! However, that appears to be the stock stereo, which sucked dick when it was brand new 10 years ago, so here's what I did:

Get THIS THING right here. It's utterly amazing for the price. 10 years ago it would've cost probably 700 dollars. Easy to use, hook up, and VERY customizable.

Now if you ain't scared to use an angle grinder to open up the back speaker holes, get two sets of THESE suckers. They are marine-rated, use an external crossover, and run at a stable 2.7 ohms to bump that 80-watt units power up to over 130 watts. Had them 3 years, and they are great.

You'll need THESE to get the fronts in though.

Then, I'm not a massive bass head, but THIS, with the right amount of tuning, and screwed to the pass-through door in the trunk (which eliminates a pass-through) lest me hear most of the shitty dubstep I listen to at reasonable volumes, and doesn't take up much space, and was easy to install. THIS mounted under the seat was completely inadequate for sustained bass notes and has no low end, so I sold it to a guy with a Forester that likes Iron and Wine and Mumford and Sons and stuff.

I had an enormous write-up on www.cobbforums.com, of which I was a member for over a decade, but that whole forum has been taken down. The hard part is the speaker install. Everything else is easy.

I wish I'd have done this like 8 years ago, and am glad my wife convinced me to do it instead of getting a holographic sight for my AR-15 that I use much less than twice a day during my commute (though I often wish I could use it during my commute as well).

CONGRATS!!!!

Oh, and some Hotchkiss sway bars. Wish I'd have done that long ago as well.

Then go stage 2 with an exhaust.

Then hide from the repo men because you're broke as shit now.

I created a mounting plate for dual speakers and where people are putting buttons you could make speaker holes

https://imgur.com/gallery/I3xQBgU

Got these upgraded speakers they even can mount in the stock location if you just want better quality

BOSS Audio BRS40 50 Watt, 4 Inch,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Yes sir, Ram 1500.
I was looking at these for the 5.25" and these for the 6x9. I basically want a tweeter up top since the speakers are so low in the door.

Yes:
First swap your speakers out with something like these:
Kicker 77KICK10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS

• get 2 sets (front and back)
  Also swap the little speakers in the dash and rollbar with 77KICK25
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2UYPI
  
• again get 2 sets.
  
  Then get you a decent amp. I prefer DD Audio D4.90 amp but any quality 4-channel amp at 75w per channel is fine. The D4.90 can take line-level inputs from your 130 head unit.

I replaced only the front and rear speakers last year, kept the stock radio as I only listen to mp3's via my phone. What I didn't know was the factory speakers were 20W each (blech) and that soldering would be involved. Done and happy.

I'm tempted to try out the Halo LED headlights on Amazon for $120 ish.

https://www.amazon.com/TURBO-Headlight-Projection-Motorcycle-Freightliner/dp/B015WIRU2A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741576&sr=8-1&keywords=wrangler+halo+led

$63 for speaker upgrades, I can't recommend it enough. I got 2 kits for both soundbar and front speakers, took me less than 2 hours to install it all myself.

https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741601&sr=8-1&keywords=speaker+upgrade

Next on my wish list is the switch panel that goes on the windshield, hook all your lights into one unit.

https://www.amazon.com/Apollointech-Wrangler-Windshield-6-Switch-Assemblies/dp/B01CDTW03K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1481741651&sr=8-4&keywords=wrangler+switch+panel

1. Chryco wiring harness
   
2. Single DIN bezel
   
3. Speakers
   
4. Soldering iron kit
   
5. Heat Shrink
   
   Tell Best Buy to go suck a lemon.

Recently bought these and installed myself. Good bang for your buck!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AFxK9E69ocMMo

For the fronts did you go a for a nested 2 way or a component?

I am still unfamiliar with the whole way the wattages work.
My understanding is that the Subwoofers Wattage level needs to match or exceed the sum of RMS across all speakers? So a 5 channel 650 watt amp could drive 4x 110 Watt speakers, and a 210 Watt Sub?

Would this kit work well?

I got them from Amazon. As per usual, you probably wouldn't find them that cheap in a normal store. My car ('94 civic coupe) took a pair of 6.5's in the front doors and a pair of 5.25's in the rear deck. Your accord might have 6x9's in the rear deck. If this is the case, your price will be a bit higher.

Looking at Amazon right now, the prices are a little higher than when I bought them.
Polk DB651 - 6.5" Pair - $65

Polk DB621 - 5.25" Pair - $64

Polk DB691 - 6X9 Pair - $88

These JEEP WRANGLER JK KICKER SPEAKER UPGRADE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_OQwBwb56MGN5T they are plug and play with no need for an adapter.

Yes. I didn't do a ton of looking tbh, but they were cheap and had solid reviews. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001RNNX8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For the amps I actually found this really cool YouTube channel that tests out budget amps to see if they are "up to Snuff" or trash.
Here is my build:

Door speakers
Package: Pair Alpine Sps-610c... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059AK2T0?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Amp for door speakers
Dual Electronics XPR84D 2/1 High Performance Power MOSFET Class D Car Amplifier with 1,000-Watts of Dynamic Peak Power

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Dual-Electronics-XPR84D-2-1-High-Performance-Power-MOSFET-Class-D-Car-Amplifier-with-1-000-Watts-of-Dynamic-Peak-Power/137888849

Sub
Pioneer TS-SWX3002 12" Shallow-Mount Pre-Loaded Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FR5HAU0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V-c4BbJW5C6F2

Amp for Sub
Audiopipe AMPI-1500 1500 Watts 1 Channel Mono Amplifier

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Audiopipe-AMPI-1500-1500-Watts-1-Channel-Mono-Amplifier/48123860

I like This MB Quart amp.

and if you don't go with Focal take a look at these Infinity Kappa 6x9s or These JBL 6x9s

The biggest buyers remorse for me was the 730 Nav/XM radio with the hard drive. Jeez does that thing suck. I'm not kidding, it was a $1895 option and is worse than anything I've ever encountered. The XM sound quality is terrible - generally flat regardless of setup. The NAV functions cause instant rage trying to input a location, and of course they want $200 two years later to update the maps. The only thing that sounds halfway decent is playing high bitrate MP3s, but only after I replaced the garbage factory speakers with higher end units.

Basically, you could replace every single function the in-car entertainment system does with a cheap cell phone, and have it all done much better.

I had this driving my two of these and the amp was just entirely too much for them at anything past 15 volume on a scale to 50. It definitely is decent, but I don't have the means to test its actual output.

I got it off Amazon. It's a dual channel 50W + 50W driver that can drive 4ohm -8ohm speakers. I used BOSS 4" 50W 4ohm speakers

TDA7492P 2 x 50 Watt Dual Channel Amplifier Wireless Digital Bluetooth 4.0 Audio Receiver Amplifier Board 50W + 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTJZFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HtjByb5TNPS0P

BOSS AUDIO BRS40 BRS 4" 50-watt Full Range Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mvjByb6J5BQZV

Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.

Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.

Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!

That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.

Edit: Link

https://www.amazon.com/JEEP-WRANGLER-KICKER-SPEAKER-UPGRADE/dp/B004SUO5QS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491113422&sr=8-1&keywords=jk+speaker

I just did these in my soundbar on my 2017. Difference is night and day and it took me all of 5 minutes to install them.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016LFVKHY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_NJybzb1WFRYR4

Or do fast rings

here that should work

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-BRS40-Replacement-individually/dp/B001RNNX8K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503958993&sr=1-1&keywords=raw%2Bspeakers&th=1

Here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00PV6F8I2?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image

If you insist on all alpine. Killer deal for compenents up front with coax in the back right here + this 5 channel amp + one of these subs will give you a great stage. Head unit is between a Pioneer 80prs for sound or a half assed alpine head unit that keeps trying to grasp on to brand loyalty and refuse to let their 1st tier head units sell direct from amazon.

Personally for the same price. Pioneer 80prs head unit, Kappa Pefect61 for the front, nothing for the rear PDX-V9 bridged to the fronts + an SA12D4 or something similar.

Too many people pay attention to brand and/or sheet numbers and ignore acutual specs.

I have the same 2015 unlimited sport and the speakers were pretty bad.

I have this amp mounted under the driver dash to the left of the brake pedal. There is a little cross bar. I fabricated a bracket out of an old steel computer case and some rivets.

4x of the Kicker 77KICK10. Those are a direct fit part and improve the quality by far even without the amp

4x of these 3.5" speakers to replace the stock paper crap.

After replacing all of these, this sounds great for me. I also have a 10" sub that runs off the same amp in the back that I can remove at any time when I choose to take my hard top off. I just googled some Jeep speaker replacement and managed to do it all myself.

This is plenty loud so that if I had the top off and going down the highway I would have no problem hearing anything, no crackling or distortion. let me know if you have any particular questions

The foam rings are called Fast Rings. If you've already got the door apart, they aren't much added cost, and can help some. https://www.amazon.com/FAST-Rings-3-Piece-Speaker-Enhancement/dp/B016LFVKHY

Try running your current vehicle with the fader turned all the way to the front, so the back speakers are off, and see if you can live with it for a week. Some don't notice, others find the lack of fill in the rear troublesome. It's personal preference.