(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best code readers & scan tools

I've run the numbers and I personally am not going to focus on oil changes. There are so many quick lube places that are charging less than $30 and it is simply not possible to compete. To compete, you will need to buy in large quantities which will be a pain with the variety of weights and types of oil out there. My 2 cents there.. I do plan to offer it as a service but not as my primary.

General maintenance including brakes, CEL, etc are what I'm hoping to do primarily. I'm looking to buy an Autel Scanner to help troubleshoot and speed work up faster than a basic OBD2 scanner can do. This may be a good entry level scanner if you're not wanting to drop $5k just yet on a Bosch

Check out this post, it is almost certainly related: https://www.reddit.com/r/sweatystartup/comments/cl38yi/4_month_update_left_engineering_job_to_run_mobile/

I assume having only 1 year of experience you do not hold any ASE certs? I don't either and I don't have business experience, more just garage work for friends and family over the years. I've swapped transmissions, built engines, replaces almost every component with a timing belt being the one I'm not acquainted with and that concerns me the most, though if I can do some research I imagine it's not too bad to do assuming other parts aren't in the way.

Vehicle wise I currently have a sedan with a large trunk. To me, this doesn't look professional and is fairly limiting. That said, I need to acquire a lot more tools depending on the work I get hired for. I think I need to upgrade to a truck shortly after starting.

A couple ideas for marketing. First, go to businesses and see if they will let you perform the maintenance in their lot/garage for employees. My current office has a detailing service on site a couple times a month. This could be great for getting new clients and helping drive referrals, no idea the cost if any. Second, go to small businesses with fleets. Offer to perform routine maintenance on their fleet during off hours which could help increase revenue. You hopefully will get called out to fix issues as they arrive. I believe these partnering tactics could really help grow.

Good luck and get started immediately! (I'm telling myself the same thing)

Yeah, 87,000 is close enough that it wouldn't hurt to do the spark plugs now. With that bad vibration/check engine light it's hard to say what might have caused it.

Over the years I've had a few occasions where I've had something similar, but it's been so few and far between that it's usually easiest to chalk up to a computer glitch that's resolved by the restart and not something with a mechanical cause. If it happens again try to read the code. An inexpensive code reading solution is any cheap ELM327 bluetooth OBD II adapter from Amazon (around $10) and the Torque app for an Android phone. A more powerful solution that can give you BMW specific codes and also lets you do lots of coding to customize features in your car is to buy the Carly adapter (Android adapter, iOS adapter) and their app.

They're all DIYable, some with a higher skill level than others of course. If you have a place to do it and can read and follow instructions you can do any job and save lots of money even if you need to buy the tools first. Lots of people are intimidated by it but with just a bit of care it's something anyone can handle. One of the big things I follow that solves the biggest problems new DIYers face is using a torque wrench when tightening fasteners. If you do that you won't need to worry about overtightening anything and breaking off a bolt, or undertightening and having it come out. If you aren't comfortable with it or you can't afford to take the time to do it yourself, a good independent shop will be a much better bet than the dealership.

Here are DIYs for the ones I mentioned:

Spark Plugs (Easy)

Ignition coil removal - Part of spark plug DIY.

Valve cover gasket (Challenging)

Motor Mount (Moderate challenge, but more in the getting to bolts way than complexity) Couldn't find a Youtube video I liked, this has lots of pictures and good step-by-step though. The only thing I would change from their DIY is to use this or similar engine support bar rather than supporting the engine from below.

I'd say the spark plugs and coils are absolutely something you can do yourself but read and watch the DIYs on the motor mounts and VCG carefully before deciding to tackle that. If you see no oil down in the spark plug you likely don't need the VCG anyway, and the motor mounts would just cause you to feel the misfires more and you can actually see it on the tach.

09 should work with tech2win.

This is what I bought, might be available on Amazon so you can possibly return it if doesn’t work for you. It says it doesn’t work on Win10 machines or 64bit OS versions but I had no issue, works fine On a i7 laptop runing exactly that, 64bit Win10. I didn’t need to install an old version of windows or anything.

https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Tech2Win-Diagnostic-Programming-System/dp/B074365Q6H

One tip that would have saved me a lot of time is to determine if you EBCM (electronic brake module) is faulty or the same issue I had which was a PCM output is to unplug the EBCM connector and measure the pin for speed reference. You should find the pinout for the connector online. Should be 10V if the ACC power on the car is on. In general check the EBCM plug that you see what you expect to see for power and ground.

If there is no power could be a wiring harness issue or the the PCM is faulty, to determine that you would need to measure the same wire (pinout is online) at the PCM end to see if you have 10V coming out. I don’t know if the speed reference in newer trucks is over CAN or a dedicated link like on mine.

In any case, you will need a tool to reflash a new module if you end up having to swap either a PCM or EBCM, so I guess you might as well buy VXdiag or a similar tool that lets you do SPS programming for the replacement module. GM will charge $40 for the license (AC Delco TDS) for the VIN but VXdiag won’t charge more than for the device, and it is useful, much easier to reprogram new fobs etc and tech2win will work on most GM vehicles up to about 2012 after which GDS is used.

Might be a good idea to check the connector at the ebcm first to make sure you are getting the right reading on the speed reference wire. Mine showed 1.5VDC where it should have been close to 10VDC. My EBCM was probably fine but I replaced it since I thought it was faulty, later replaced the PCM. EBCM did communicate with the Tech2 so I guess I should have know the module is fine, replaced it anyway as C0235 and C0256 could not be reset, but those were caused by a faulty PCM communication.

Yeah, it is fairly nice to have, it gives you all of the same information that the tool that the dealer has for your car. Here is the one I have

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and you will need to go to FORSCAN.org to obtain the free software for it. Super easy and the software essentially walks you through itself. You should not need an extended license for what you are doing.

I bought this one off Amazon. It's a few dollars more expensive than the cheapest ones, but seems to have better reviews. I've had good luck with it as well.

Personally I have a PLX Kiwi3 adapter and use OBDFusion app ($9.99). OBDFusion has some vehicle-specific enhanced diags add-ons ($9.99 ea). I own the add-ons for Nissan and Toyota which gives me something like 1,000 PIDs for each platform. So, for example, I can read several hundred Nissan CVT PIDs and also several hundred Toyota hybrid battery parameters.

Keep in mind that by default most software-based solutions are very limited in terms of 'write' capability because this would require lots of testing and could break something. Thus OBDFusion (and most software solutions) cannot do oil reset, nor many functions that require bi-directional communication with the vehicle OBDII interface.

OBDFusion has the capability to create 'dashboards' where you can monitor as many sensors as you want in real-time. You can also record/log sensor data and it overlays GPS data from the smartphone, so you can track MPG or see what your fuel trims were on a particular stretch of road.

Keep in mind the interfaces of almost all software-based solutions are very cryptic and require a lot of digging around, so if you expect these to be a quick and easy troubleshooting tool, you will be disappointed.

My advice is that in terms of quick troubleshooting and actual component testing. Autel makes some pretty nice scan tools starting at the $500 price point.

A bluetooth solution is great for looking at data, but a proper scan tool can set/reset many parameters and in some cases do basic oscilloscope functions as well.

https://www.auteltech.com/

edit:
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiCOM-MK808-Diagnostic-Diagnosis/dp/B0744B55QV/

https://www.obdsoftware.net/software/obdfusion

>OBD Fusion now supports enhanced diagnostics for Ford, Lincoln, Mercury, Mazda, Toyota, Lexus, Scion, Nissan and Infiniti vehicles. Enhanced diagnostics provide access to additional modules such as ABS, Airbag, Transmission, 4x4, and Body Control modules. You also get access to hundreds of additional parameters that are not available over standard OBD2. Enhanced diagnostics are available through an In-App Purchase in OBD Fusion.

https://www.plxdevices.com/Kiwi-3-OBD-Car-to-Smartphone-Connection-p/897346002832.htm

It’s $83 on Amazon for the reader, and you have to buy the app which is $60, so $143 total. I have it and have loved it for quickly diagnosis problems (I keep the adapter in my glove box) and coding the car. In hindsight, I wish I bought something more like the Foxwell scanner which would be much more capable. (Carly can’t reset steering wheel angle sensor and stuff like that)

As a note, Carly will work with a cheap $20 obd2 scanner, it just won’t be able to do all functions like battery reset

I have this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013LPC40E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and also did the free trial for the carista. carista was pretty dope because I could change some settings super easy that I might not be able to do with the reader thing I linked. But the catch w/ carista is paying for the app after buying the unit itself, kinda wack.

I have one. They are pretty neat and handy. I use the Torque app on my Android phone with it. Some really suck, but I bought one that was highly recommended and I've never had a problem. The real time information and custom gauges are pretty sweet too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B0C1NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

I bought one of these about 5 years ago and LOVE it.
It comes with free software to load on a laptop.
I've used it for everything from just clearing the CEL for friends to monitoring all data while driving (very cool dashboards with this software).
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4

Go out and get an OBD-II scanner. Trust me, it's a solid investment that won't set you back much at all. If anything, it's probably the best "bang for your buck" accessory you can get for your XJ. It'll let you read CEL codes, reset them, and you can use the Torque app (which is pretty cool to have for the info).

I bought this one about 3yrs ago, it set me back a whopping $15.

iDiagnose® ELM327 V1.5 Bluetooth OBD2 OBD-II CAN-BUS Auto Diagnostic Scanner Tool Wireless OBD2 Scan Tool CAR Code Reader - ANDROID Compatible

I didn't see any replies regarding this on a quick scan. Do yourself a big favor and get this - https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Automotive-Diagnostic-Compliant-Vehicles/dp/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=sr_1_13?crid=2QWSS54C275TZ&keywords=check+engine+code+reader&qid=1559137785&s=gateway&sprefix=check+engine+%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-13

Or something like it. This will tell you exactly what's wrong with a quick google search. Sometimes it's just "the gas cap is old and loose." As someone who kept a 97 tercel alive way longer than it should have I really feel your post. Good luck friend!!

To add on to this, a cheap and good investment is a basic OBD II reader (eg. https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY). They are especially useful when the catchall "check engine" light comes on. There should be a port underneath your steering wheel somewhere (it's often easier to see if you sit on the ground with the door open). Plug the reader in, turn the car on, and it will give you the error codes that you can google along with your Make/Model to figure out what's wrong.

If it's something simple then you can easily fix it and even if you take it to a mechanic, you can lead in with "this is broken" and catch them if they try to charge you for hundreds in diagnostics and unnecessary parts.

Also I don't know what area you are in but frequently Auto parts shops such as Auto Zone or Advanced Auto Parts can be a wealth of knowledge; they'll make sure parts you're buying are a match for your car and sometimes will even loan you obscure tools you may need to complete a job.

With using advanced technology, the Launch CRP123’s https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BGH0EAC diagnostic function is extremely powerful, which provides testing for four modern systems (ENG \ABS\SRS\ AT) and Obd2 / OBD/EOBD standard protocol. As a consumer-centric and quality-centric OBD2 Scanner, rest assured it is well-designed, well-made and well-treated. The Complete OBDII functionality, extensive vehicle coverage and Multilanguage use make life easier with intelligence and convenience.

I'm using this IFTTT recipe( requires Dash app on phone and Google account (for Drive)) and this bluetooth ODB2 adapter to automatically get pretty spreadsheets on my Google Drive showing everything I could ever care about my car trips. Distance, gas consumption (actual and average), average speed, weather, start and end points... It's great.

I keep my OBD2 adapter connected to the car at all times and Dash auto-starts when it detects the OBD2 device over bluetooth.

>What should I know? What should I check?

if you look at the window sticker in the lower right is the build date if you look closely.

50 miles isn't many test drives in two years at least.

If you get this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRE0OOA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

and have an iPhone or android you can check the battery health with leaf spy.

Summer heat & humidity tend to damage the battery and AFAIK the switch to better heat-resistant batteries happened late in the MY2014 build.

Note that if you don't pay $7500 in federal income taxes you won't get the $7500 credit, since it's not a refundable credit.

$11,000 for a leaf with 50 miles on it is pretty good. I'd go for it, though with such a short commute you're not going to get a lot of savings going EV.

But the Leaf will blow any other $11,000 car off the line, that's for sure. That motor pulls like a train, until 40mph or so.

I bought this one and have been very happy. You will need a laptop to use it. It will do all the basic error code checks, but also has the ability to log sensor data, which is nice when you're trying troubleshoot.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Fq5GAbV5ZBNZV

This one. I got it for Christmas and I've enjoyed the tech side of it. I think you can download 3rd party apps to use more of the technical things. Technically the chip can read everything about the car and Automatic's app barely shows you any of that. I've never had to use the built in crash monitoring, but it's nice knowing it's there in case I'm unable to call for help.

Here's the best one . There are others which work that are cheap but these are the best

So I've been playing a lot with my 2010 and 2016 Fords, especially involving the camera.

Two different things can be checked, unfortunately both requiring a little computer kmow-how and some parts off Amazon.

1. APIM Settings. Using a Modified ELM327 adapter and free software called ForScan, you can access the module configuration and ensure Reverse Camera is enabled. You need to register on their forum to get an unlock code for the software, so sign up right away if you order the adapter. There's other settings you can change as well, such as DRLs.
   
   
2. Scan the CAN-BUS. This one's a bit more complex. Using a Canbus shield attached to an Arduino Uno, you can connect it to the MS-CAN on your truck through the obdii port. A relatively simple bit of code can be used to determine if the radio is getting proper signals telling it what gear you're in, or force it to think you're in reverse. Obviously if you want to go this route, I'll help you through getting it set up. Very minor soldering is required to put the pins on the canbus shield. No vehicle wiring is modified.
   
   Just keeping a quick note, if yours is the same as my 2010, the gear messages should be ID 3B0, with Reverse having a data of 0x01.
   
   
   If you go with an aftermarket camera, it's entirely possible to make it display on the navigation screen -- any standard composite camera will work.

I have a standard usb OBD cable but not specialized for tuning. It comes with some gimped software, but has worked with better software previously. If you could use it, you'd be welcome to borrow it.

i just bought this one on amazon to get a taste. BAFX Products - WiFi OBD2 / OBDII... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078K54MT5

pretty amazing for less than $20

This is the one I have. Works well and I've changed a couple things with it so far.

I personally trust a fully wired one over bluetooth, just to be safe.

I have a nice standalone unit but I’m actually looking at this Bluetooth one for my iPhone. They make an Android version also. I’m still researching it because I want to make sure I can erase a code, but I like the idea that the software is always updated.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_kyyYAb8W9GA8Z

Thanks, bluetooth elm327 obd2 dongle ($15 from amazon) and the app Torque for android (5$), the best 20 dollars I've spent on my car in a long long time.

https://www.amazon.com/Mestart-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1538283099&sr=8-4&keywords=elm327+bluetooth

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

Here ya go: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/

As far as uploading to a private cloud, that would be a bit more difficult. You could probably set up a server to forward the data to a private cloud, but it'd still be on their servers first.

__

To DIY a solution, you're talking about a bluetooth dongle with some sort of cellular-activated IOT device, AND a GPS puck/receiver, plus the private cloud you'd set up separately. Do-able if you're looking for a project, but definitely more expensive both time and money wise than the bought solution (the GPS alone is ~$50, add an OBD dongle and an RPi and you're over-budget already). If you're trying to do pre-96 cars, that's a LOT of custom wiring, due to the lack of OBD2 (and I'd know, because I went through all that to datalog my '94 MX3).

while the deal per se is good, I'd advise to purchase a device like this one instead

http://www.amazon.com/iDiagnose%C2%AE-Smallest-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Wireless/dp/B00A1O72TW/

and install on your phone one of the apps that support them... This one comes to mind

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

Definitely going to incorporate OBD-II after all the feedback I got on here. I ordered a reader yesterday. Cheaper than I thought... After the first couple tests with real hardware (all currently shipped, 2-3 day ETA) and everything looks relatively okay, I'll more officially kick off the project (likely get a sourceforge page setup, etc). I don't want to start making accounts and subreddits all over the place with the name crashberrypi until I'm more confident the RPi it's going to handle the load.

For now I'll just post updates in my spreadsheet and self posts to /r/raspberry_pi. It'll likely be just two or three self posts until tests are done, and it's relevant to the RPi enough...

I bought this reader in 2013. It lists "Canada - All Vehicles 1998 & Newer" as compatible. It also says "For Android & Windows ONLY!"

On my phone I use the paid version of the Torque app. Try the linked (free) version first.

Works great for my 2010 Fusion here in the US.

Edit: Looks like they have an iOS reader now as well. No idea what app to use though.

BAFX's Country Compliance List

I guess I'm not looking at the right thing on Amazon. They don't say anything about iphone or android.
For example this one says you don't need a cell phone or laptop. Is this the right tool or am I off the mark? Thanks for your help, by the way.

Hmm, I'm interested. Is there a reliable guide somewhere? It looks like this is the thing I need to buy alongside their $60 app? Quite a pricey app but it seems $120 is still cheaper than a shop. You said there are extras, is there anything cool I should know about what I can do with this scanner?

You would need the vehicle interface device. I wouldn't begin to know what's a quality interface or what's recommended, but I think I've seen one of these posted on here before.

Then you would need to purchase a subscription with GM TDS to get the software as well. It's about 60 dollars for 3 days. I'm not entirely sure what subscription is the one you need or what software you would need. This is the site, I believe.

Either way, I would not recommend this at all. You could end up irreparably or at least have to take it back to the dealership or even MORE expensive work like reflashing your car's computer or potentially replacing it.

They go cheaper without the cable.

NOTE: this is Bluetooth. It does not work with Apple Bluetooth because these are pretty much never "Apple approved" BT devices. iPhone/iPod users will need the WiFi readers. The iOS app is Horsepower, not Torque. I'm not sure about HP, but Torque Lite is free and will read codes and display engine data. Torque (paid) is what's $5.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/ref=sr_1_3?crid=31O5121TTE98A&keywords=ios+obdii+bluetooth&qid=1564146769&s=gateway&sprefix=ios+OBII%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-3


I have that one but for Android and its been able to pull codes off any car I plugged it into. You will have to use an app on your phone as well to have an interface with it. I recommend Torque Pro.

Edited:
copied from amazon description:

Automatic Pro is an adapter that plugs into almost any car to provide unlimited monitoring with zero fees. Know where your car is at all times, make sure that in the event of an accident that you and your family will be taken care of, and even connect your car to your Echo, your smart thermostat, or any other part of your digital life. This product works only in the US.

https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Connected-Realtime-Diagnostics-Detection/dp/B01JRBQ9PC

Id start with something line this starter set, a 3/8 breaker bar, 1/2 breaker bar, a Decent torque wrench, a plier set, vice grips, channel locks, adjustable wrench, screw driver set, a multimeter, decent scan tool, a jack, a funnell some drain pans from walmart, pb blaster, jack stands and make some wheel chocks. I'm sure I'm missing something pertinent, but remember you can rent some tools at your local parts store for free with a deposit so check to see what they rent before you buy. Also buy the remainder of the tools as you need them, its tough buying a lot of tools at once especially once you develop an affinity for some quality tools. A lot of the youtube guys have videos on what they use they most, but what I've listed should cover most maintenance tasks for your car.

Funny thing is it's usually not the engine. Most of the time I've seen it come on, it's an exhaust problem. It can also be something like a cylinder misfire in the engine but you'd probably notice that before the light came on because it would be running really rough.

Anyway, you can just buy one of these and read if your OBD is throwing any codes. I don't know if this specific one is any good... just the first one that popped on Google. Or you can take it to Autozone and they'll check it for free.

http://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Reader-Diagnostic-OBD-MT-50/dp/B004IV58AY

Looks like this seems to be pretty much what I'm looking for:
http://www.amazon.com/Launch-Tech-301050116-Transmission-Scanner/dp/B00BGH0EAC

Anyone got experience with it?

My suggestion: I have a Bluetooth obd2 reader in my car. There pretty cheap and you can pull check engine light codes.

Something like this iSaddle Super Mini Bluetooth OBD2 OBDII Scan Tool Check Engine Ligh... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_XH9xub06NA4KW

Might be the onboard computer or other electronics then if you think the Fuel Pump is fine. There are electronics in the Relay, though, and it could just be an error with the starting sequence. Do you have one of these by any chance? Might narrow down the issue, might do nothing, might outright tell you what's wrong. Also just good to have on hand, that way if you ever go to a mechanic you can inform him ahead of time that you did an OBDII reading, and tell him the diagnostics it gave. Much less likely to get gouged by expensive tests like engine compression if you come armed.

There's tons of super generic ODB2 scanners for iPhone or Android on Amazon for ~$20. Android ones tend to be Bluetooth-based, iPhone ones tend to be Wifi-based.

e.g. (only works on Android) http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=zg_bs_15707381_1

or

http://www.amazon.com/ELM327-Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Smartphone/dp/B00QRE0OOA/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1453842586&sr=1-4&keywords=elm327

So, I have long tube headers, high-flow cats, catback, and cutouts right after the cats on my '14 Charger RT. And I have a diablosport T1000 tuner. I got an email tune from a reputable tuner (Johan at diablosport) around January to bypass the downstream sensors codes so I could pass emissions. Recently, I started getting a check engine light for these codes (P0430 and P0420, catalyst system efficiency below threshold). After going back and forth with Johan about it, he verified that these codes are set to not throw a light with my tune. He said they would show up if scanned, but they shouldn't throw the light. So, I'm at a loss. Nothing about my car has changed since I got the tune and did my emissions, and it ran fine with no CEL for months. Johan recommended a more advanced code reader to see if there are any transmission codes as diablos don't read those. Does anyone have any ideas or recommendations?

EDIT: Does it make sense to get something like this?

Tangental information: this sounds a lot like the "Automatic" device, though there are others this info might be useful to you:

Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC

This is what I got:

OBD transmitter:
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Carly-BMW-Adapter-Generation/dp/B00X3UYXM0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492533694&sr=8-1&keywords=carly

App:
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/carly-for-bmw-pro/id467343427?mt=8

I loved the app, it let you program a bunch of different things (including folding the mirrors when the car is locked). It also would let you see live information from the ECU when the car was running.

Newer cars, it might not even be the alt.

Get this (iOS has an equivalent), and one of these, and you can crack any engine light issue. Mine is going on 11 years. Best purchase I've made.

I think ive read that they both pretty much have similar features. One is just easier to do the long coding and the other is really easy if you pay extra money for the modules. "All apps cost credits, even with the PRO version."

So if you take your time you can probably still do the long coding but elevens makes it easy to just push a button.

If you are low on funds I would consider the Xtool scantool. It does everything at a very affordable cost. If your only goal is diagnosis and maintenance and you are low on funds or just frugal. Check out the xtool.

I bought this scanner for less than 20 bucks and it works great with forscan

This is the one I bought. Works great. Veepeak

I use the following with Torque Pro (android) via bluetooth. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLZCVGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First, the electrical hum you mention is just electrical noise that often comes from cheap phone chargers and aux cords and in no way related to this or any other problem.

By external temperature gauge do you mean the ambient temperature sensor and display? That just tells you the temp outside but if heat is building under the hood while not moving it may show a warmer temperature. Other than that this tells you nothing about what is happening inside the engine.

Have you checked the coolant level? Only open the cap when the car is completely cool but you can usually check by looking at the reservoir and don't need to remove the cap.

A shop or someone with a scan tool can read the coolant temperature the ECU is seeing. Generally, if the overheat light comes on the car is overheating and you may be doing significant damage by continuing to allow this to occur.

My primary suspect based on your description is the cooling fan behind the radiator isn't running since you only mention a problem when not moving. Strangely, the fan normally runs at higher speed and on a different circuit when the A/C is on but yours may be completely failed. The other possibility is a failing water pump that isn't moving enough coolant at idle.

Please don't continue to drive like this, it will only end badly.

If you want the cheapest way to determine engine temp without paying someone else you could by an OBD2 reader that connects to a smartphone like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=psdc_15707381_t2_B07JFRFJG6

You install an app on your phone and can make it display live temperature data on your screen while driving; just make sure your phone is compatible or find one like this that is.

Bring a Bluetooth OBD port with you and check the car that way, you’ll be sure it’s not been throwing CELs and such.


Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool for iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports Torque, OBD Fusion app https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_93YZDbNPB3F60

How much is too much?

I use this one at home and side jobs.

My job provides manufacturer specific diagnostic software.


https://www.amazon.com/Launch-CRP123-Scanner-Transmission-Diagnostic/dp/B00BGH0EAC

This tells me everything I basically need to know. And it's updates are free online. You just need to log into their website and learn to update the reader manually. Not difficult to go at all though.

can't vouch for this site, but the NT510 is $155 shipped with your choice of software.

I found it on amazon as well, it's $170 shipped (after $9 coupon).

I've used a few OBD-II interfaces, one serial, two USB, and my current fav is bluetooth. I got it off Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They all create serial devices in Windows and Linux and the bluetooth one is physically isolated from your computer so you can't do anything to power surge the car computer.

I bought this one for 14.99. It works just fine, scans codes and can clear them.. all I need.

Thanks for demystifying that for me. Glad to hear I don’t have to shell out $40 for what I need. Unfortunately, all the cheapest devices are Android or WiFi only. Thinking of going with this one:

Veepeak OBDCheck BLE Bluetooth 4.0 OBD2 Scanner Adapter for iOS & Android, Car Check Engine Light Diagnostic Trouble Code Reader Supports Year 1996 and Newer Vehicles in the US https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zn4dAbECCHCVE

Too funny you just posted this question. I researched this exact question today and bought an OBD2 about the time you were posting this. This reddit thread convinced me to go with the BAFX product for $27 for a quality wifi scanner. The LeLink\^2 one was my second choice based off of Leaf drivers' recommendations but the selling point there was leaving it plugged in, which I don't plan to do. I just want to reversibly disable the VSP sounds.

> OBD2 reader

The one my friend has, and the one I'm going to ask him to read my car with tonight is this: http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY

If it works out, I'm ordering one immediately.

I'd recommend OBD Auto Doctor (onboard diagnostic) for $10. Then get a cheap Bluetooth OBD adapter from Amazon. The one linked below iDiagnose ELM327 is $15.

http://www.windowsphone.com/en-us/store/app/obd-auto-doctor/68fcb70d-c259-4e1d-8158-27735854493c

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ODBII reader is what it is called. Here is the one I got from Amazon. Literally only tells you the codes not what they mean, but it has a book with the codes listed. But I always Google the code anyway with the car's make and model. You can spend a fortune on theses depending on what kind of things you want it to do. This one will read the codes, tell you pending codes (things that have happened but not enough to trigger a light) and allow you to clear the codes (never do this unless you are fixing the problem yourself).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=ppx_yo_mob_b_inactive_ship_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://i.imgur.com/GiYC8ug.jpg

Replaces the previous 48hr access for $55 subscription option that wasn't locked to a single VIN. Useful for DIY'ers to enable programming the most current GM calibrations for the multiple modules equipped on their Volts via an appropriate OBD-II programming tool.

I love the torque paid app. I think its with the $5. I got the PLX bluetooth off amazon. I don't remember it being quite so expensive but it connects quick every time, has a long cable and an on/off switch. You pay for what you get the $5 bluetooth ObdII adapters aren't going to cut it.

ELM327 is the one you want to be looking for.
https://www.amazon.com/OBD2-OBDII-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2HZI9Y1SS61UY&keywords=elm327+bluetooth+obd2&qid=1554761236&s=gateway&sprefix=elm327+%2Caps%2C296&sr=8-3
Something like this.

I use a $12 bluetooth ODBII reader from ISaddle - https://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473984041&sr=8-1&keywords=isaddle+obdii

Paired to DashCommand or Torque. I like the interface of DashCommand much better, but Torque allows for a little more customization.

Check your oil. Your oil light is on. The engine light is a generic "check engine" light, so I can't tell you about that one. It may be just because your oil pressure light is on. Easiest way to find out without spending too much scratch is to get an ODBII scanner and look at the codes. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY

First, oil. If that doesn't clear it, scan it.

What year?

If you are just trying to read or clear codes, This will work. It's cheap and it gives you the code. I have this exact one in my tool box and bring it with me if someone asks me to look at their car. I then use google to search what the code means for the car.

This is what I use and is suggested on the GM-Volt forums. I think it is worth it, you can update any of the other modules too, if you need.

​

https://www.amazon.com/VXDIAG-Tech2Win-Diagnostic-Programming-System/dp/B074365Q6H/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vcx+nano&qid=1558923764&s=gateway&sr=8-3

The reason they do not rent them is because they are surprisingly cheap: https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Automotive-Diagnostic-Compliant-Vehicles/dp/B01I8UJ0V8/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1519141724&sr=8-10&keywords=engine+diagnostic+code+reader

Get this cable for $29.99

Get this FREE software called ForScan and install it to a laptop.

It will do everything you need it to. Ford Specific tests as well as ABS, BODY, AIRBAG modules can be read and even programmed.

This one. been working fine for the last 2 years or so.

You can get a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner on Amazon for around $11. This is the one I use with Torque.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1icJAbT64GMYR

Amazon is: https://www.amazon.com/Original-Carly-Adapter-Generation-Iphone/dp/B00X3UYXM0

https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Diagnostic-Scanner-Adapter-Smartphone/dp/B00QRE0OOA/ref=pd_sim_23_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00QRE0OOA&pd_rd_r=1V5N4XK5TX1NSBEYXXP6&pd_rd_w=3azWa&pd_rd_wg=3q8p2&psc=1&refRID=1V5N4XK5TX1NSBEYXXP6

is similar to what i purchased, and i use an app on my iphone called, obdcardoctor that is free. i assume your passat has an OBD2 port this is where you could connect these items to run the codes or do really review any information the ecu dumps to the obd2 port.

Try Dashcommand Torque is really ugly and jittery. Dashcommand has some fantastic skins available, i personally use the Lexus LFA gauge skin

also if you want to have the obd2 sensor installed permanently go for the PLX kiwi. higher sample rate, wired connection so it doesn't hang under your dash, and an on/off switch so it can be left plugged in without draining the car's battery.


its $100 right now, but i got mine for $65 last fall

I use this guy, http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420043600&sr=8-1&keywords=isaddle+super+mini+elm327

And Torque for Android. Works great, Torque's UI is really stupid though.

I use this, there are other/better solutions out there, but this does what I need it to do.


FOXWELL NT510 Automotive OBD2 Scanners Code Reader for BMW All System Car Diagnostic Scan Tool with Battery Registration

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019QCG5RE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_IT60CbDZE6BC2

Most BMWs have a "tamper light/dot" on the instrument cluster near the mileage. This light/dot will illuminate if the instrument cluster/millage has been tampered with.

You might want to buy one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/Reader-Diagnostic-Check-Engine-Light/dp/B004IV58AY


It allows you to view and reset the code yourself. If you keep an eye out they go on sale for $10-$15 sometimes too.

a few basic things, spark plugs, fuel filter, or a sensor.

take it a a discount autopart or somehting similar, or even better buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-Interface-Diagnostic-Software/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1369345003&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+car+diagnostic and it will tell you if there is a bad sensor.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Reader-Diagnostics-Devices/dp/B078K54MT5/

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS these are what my smog guy uses for quick engine control diagnostics. he has more advanced scan tools that i have.. this is still what he reaches for first.

I used the Bluetooth OBDII adapter I got on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kvw5Cb3ZXY7X7 and the BimmerCode app for Android. Not sure how to go about it with other methods, but the 2addicts forum had plenty of info.

Works with OBD Fusion and Bimmercode.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

What about this device?

Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lw65yb4890EAH

http://www.amazon.com/iSaddle-Bluetooth-CAN-BUS-Diagnostic-Windows/dp/B00KLZCVGU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416284424&sr=8-2&keywords=iSaddle
You can get this and leave the insurance company out of it.

I'd wager to say that the Tesla allows for more control and more configuration, so perhaps i should have said "a customizable on-board computer".

Since the majority of cars today get their "sophisticated" computer translated by a specific piece of hardware that gives feedback in cryptic codes that require translation.

I bought this one. I only had it a few weeks, but has worked without issue. There are cheaper ones, bit I got this because it had prime. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_VZjqzb9WVN19B

obd2 elm327 readers can be had for $15

With $8 software, you get verbose at home diagnostic info, including real time while driving.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_NzW-BbYKWTYMV

This one?

amazon link

This is on sale right now: FOXWELL NT510 Automotive OBD2 Scanners Code Reader for BMW All System Car Diagnostic Scan Tool with Battery Registration https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019QCG5RE/

Get a Bluetooth obd2 dongle and the torque app for android. About $20 for both

scanner
torque

Do you have an OBD II reader?

This is $15 and less than half the size of OP's item. I bought both, both work the same.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-WiOAb41R8HDW

I think I used the Carista app

This is the one I got works on 1996 vehicles and up and is bluetooth

Takes less than 5mins to do. You need an obd2 to usb cable(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N18TOFB?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf), and The Focccus program(http://ford.xtlt.ru/FoCCCus/).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X3UYXM0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

$82.90

Here is the mobile version of your link

Here is the link to that doc, you will need an OBDII reader. You can always google how to use Forscan and you can do soooo much to your F150!!

​

ForScan Doc:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466

​

OBDII Reader:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N18TOFB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I bought this one http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A1O72TW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage about a year ago and its still going. Its been plugged in ever since I bought it and its smaller then some of the others so it won't get in the way.

I made mine into a car computer code reader.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B0C1NE/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here's your device, here's your app, here's your how-to.

EDIT - I wanna add: I didn't make that how-to. That's not me. However, it worked for me.

OBD2 OBDII Bluetooth for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HXGX8V6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ygp5BbARC58R8

Sorry I just saw your comment. This is the one I have. And the app I have is

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque

This is the code reader I bought my little brother. While it's no where near as nice as mine but it works and gets you the most basic information you could ever need on a day to day basic maintenance.

id say go for the lower miles. get a car fax. get under it for awhile (when i buy used im under the truck for an hour or two) just looking. leaks, cracks, rust whatever. bring a flash light and an inspection mirror. i now bring a bore scope. push it down into the frame. cheap on amazon. hooks up to your smart phone.
https://www.amazon.com/Depstech-Semi-rigid-Inspection-Waterproof-Adjustable/dp/B00STB0EW6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499134773&sr=8-2&keywords=borescope
power washing can hide alot. cant hide mud and muck in side a box frame, pull wheels off and look at the brakes.
get a cheap obd II scan tool, pc one is what i have. plug it in, read what it says.
https://www.amazon.com/ScanTool-425801-OBDLink-USB-Professional/dp/B005ZWM0R4/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1499134641&sr=8-25&keywords=obd+2

I have the android version of this one, reads everything I want to with no issues.

I bought the veepeak one.
Veepeak OBDCheck BLE OBD2 Bluetooth Scanner Auto OBD II Diagnostic Tool Compatible with iOS & Android, Bluetooth 4.0 Car Check Engine Light Code Reader Supports 1996 and Newer Vehicles in The US https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XKQQQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6yqQBbHYKVRN7

Live gauges, and accurate error readings. Sorry for weird link, I’m on mobile.

Take a look at this one

Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5egrybRD4G45G

No fees or sim card needed

My mistake it was $10 I keep one in every car. You just download the torque app on your phone.

Why would you bother when a cheap OBD-II scanner costs $16?

(Let's be honest; if you need something beyond the cheap scanner then your problem is more than likely not something you're going to fix in your driveway unless you're a mechanic anyway!)

I'm on iOS so it requires a low power bluetooth adapter so I got this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought OBD Fusion off the App Store.

If you run Android then this will work and is cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_7?crid=29Y0KSBTGU65U&keywords=veepeak+obd2&qid=1573319560&s=automotive&sprefix=veepeak%2Cautomotive%2C211&sr=1-7

> The maestro is only reading what the vehicle is providing so the speed and accuracy is limited by the vehicle manufacturer.

That's bullshit. :/

With something like this you'll see it's a big difference in PIDs/second. Just about any recent car will give you well over 100 PIDs/second. Meanwhile cheapo versions or wireless versions will limit you to 20, or even 10. It's not on the manufacturers, their own equipment has to read this data, if it's not accurate and fast it's either an older car (anything pre-05, most pre-08) or the scanner software/hardware is garbage.

Not a complete answer OP..

But I got one of these when I suspected my ex of cheating:
Automatic AUT-350C Pro Gold 3G Connected Car Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JRBQ9PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_uAAYEAqunJTtg

Just wrap it in electric tape, taps right into the OBDII port and with the tape you can't even see it. It shows travel time, destination address, and I could even use the 3G to look at location real time. Works flawlessly and I actually still have it in case the car is stolen. The accompanying app is a little rudimentary but it has everything you need, and you can even tie it into IFTTT if you want

Edit: since I saw another response, this is $130 or so but requires no battery or monthly plan. It uses 3G cell towers for all the information. Since everything is 4G and up today they don't even bother with a plan