(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best computer ups units

I have an APC 1500 UPS.

APC Smart-UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup with Pure Sine Wave Output Rack-Mount/Tower (SMC1500-2U) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZT2KV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ie38BbXJYPAM3

I got it from dell for less than that because I had a bunch of rewards points from ordering stuff through dell business credit.

I have it mounted on the bottom of my rack because it’s super heavy.

My devices are not plugged into the UPS. They’re plugged into PDU’s which go into the UPS.

I’m using two of these.

StarTech.com Rackmount PDU with 8 Outlets with Surge Protection - 19in Power Distribution Unit - 1U https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035PS5AE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4f38BbNGK7QE4

There are 0u ones that mount on the side of the rack as well. They’re more expensive. Those are the least expensive new PDU’s you’ll find.

A few of my customers at work have this UPS.

CyberPower OR500LCDRM1U Smart App LCD UPS System, 500VA/300W, 6 Outlets, AVR, 1U Rackmount https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XJJN60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3i38BbR8SWEXS

It’s worked pretty well. It doesn’t have the ability to connect via the network or do any outage management stuff without being directly plugged in via usb. You can purchase an additional card for that. The APC is more advanced and has higher output, but higher cost.

The cyberpower does not have replaceable batteries, which are consumables and will need replaced every few years.

These smaller ones typically power a router, network switch, access point, and perhaps a small office nas device like a netgear readynas 3138.

At work we use these or bigger.

APC SMT2200RM2U 2200VA RM 2U LCD 120V Smart-UPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004F09D0O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bl38Bb6QQM1W4

They’re super nice. Management card is additional. These require 20 amp circuits and receptacles or higher. You can use the software (webpage) to power cycle a group of outlets. Pretty neat stuff. But you do pay for the neat stuff.

So would there be no real benefit over having one NIC for the base system and one NIC for all the VMs?

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I havent heard of Mobaxterm or Terminus, Ill do some research into them at some point.


Money is kinda short for me, but Ive found a UPS for around £120
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002RL0CKI/ref=psdc_430442031_t4_B007VHDKNY
Does this seem ok?
I had a look at some rackmount ones but theyre all £200 upwards (more than im going to spend on the R710 itself)

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It doesnt really bother me not running ESXi on the latest version unless they made a massive change like making live VM migration free or something. I havent done too much research into the other hypervisors as I have mostly seen ESXi and thought that was the most popular. Though I may try all of them later down the road, perhaps on a second system (I just had a thought, could I run a virtualised instance of the other hypervisors in ESXi?)

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From the little bit I have just seen, XCP looks pretty good.

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Does this switch look decent?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-TL-SG1024D-24-Port-Rackmount-Unmanaged/dp/B003UWXFM0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rackmount+switch&qid=1555791974&s=computers&sr=1-4

I have found some of the same model cheaper on ebay and, with my very limited knowledge, this looks to be alright.

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Also, how would I go about distributing power from the UPS, surely 6 plugs wouldnt last long before needing to expand. I have seen some massive extension lead looking things with 20 plugs and stuff like that but I assume one small UPS wouldnt be able to power something like that.

> but I don't know if they sell one with 4 ports.

You can get up to 6 keystone jacks in a 1-gang box

> I thought that I would buy a new rack-mountable switch and patch panel. This is what I've been considering:

Like /u/toaster_knight said, get a vertical or deeper one. I would strongly recommend an actual enclosure with a locking door for an office environment.

I also see no reason to put anything smaller than a 24-port in a rack. It's just a waste of space and money.

I would also recommend at least a SMB-level switch. Yes, they are more expensive, but their uptime and management capabilities are worth it IMO. The Ubiquiti 24-port switch is under $200 IIRC.

> I'm assuming that I can rest the router on top of the switch.

That will probably be fine, but you can get rackmount shelves and drawers as well. The shelf is nice because you can remove the switch without messing about with the router.

> I'd also like to buy some type of cable organizers for inside the ceiling. I normally use those small cable clips, but they seem to be intended for one cable. I've seen velcro used, but I'm not sure how to actually secure the cables.

You can get joist hangers, but inside a ceiling, the cables are usually just bundled and left loose or in a tray. If you have a drop ceiling, there are a wide variety of products designed for your support system.

I would also recommend a UPS and a power distribution panel. UPS for obvious reasons and the power panel will let you easily power cycle each component without having to dig into the back--something that gets much harder after rack-mounting.

>Has anybody have any experience with this?

Yes

>How does gain compensation fit into the workflow, and how does it work?

1. Set your gain the normal way during sound checks (either FoH or Mons is in charge of this)
   
2. Have a point where you're "done" with setting gain (end of sound checks for us)
   
3. Turn GC on for all channels; this keeps both boards from accidentally stepping on the other person's gain
   
4. Switch the gain controls on your board to digital gain
   
   >Lastly, is there a way to make this redundant with out the use of switches?
   
   Nope. But I'd rank redundant power supplies on the consoles and everything on UPSes higher on my priority list than redundant data cabling, if that matters to you.
   
   We use redundant Cisco SG300-10 switches and CyberPower OR700 UPSes. Both have worked really really well for us in the last year.
   
   >I am hoping to be able to daisy chain the consoles and stage boxes in a loop. Does this work?
   
   Yes, that works. You don't complete the loop though; Dante does not support redundancy via ring topology, only star topology.

Both of those cases have pretty specific PSU specs. They want a flexATX PSU, which are usually noisy. I think you get the best mileage out of an HDPlex 400 watt DC-DC psu and a Dell 330 Watt AC-DC adapter

They aren't cheap, but then sffPCs tend to cost a bit more. I've used both in some of my Ultra sff builds and love them.

Of the 1u flex atx PSUs they recommend, I think I'd trust the Seasonic the most. Seasonic makes great PSUs, and It costs less than either of the two components I listed.

This should probably get the job done to your satisfaction.

Not sure if it matters on UPS devices, but black friday is just around the corner so it might be worth it to wait a couple of days.

It is on https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00T7BYV6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for around £72 which seems like a reasonable offer.

Best of luck!


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For anyone that might read this and have the same question:

Ended up finding a couple options.

1. https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-550VA-Audio-Backup/dp/B000WS0CRQ Not bad but too heavy duty for what I need and more than I was looking to pay for something like this.
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWAZEIU/ref=psdc_764572_t4_B000WS0CRQ?th=1 More in the price range and should fit nicely in the encloser and has the outlets on top which should be ideal for how I'll be using it.
   

So there are a lot of ways to do this.

First you start with your enclosure. They come in sizes ranging from 9-42 inches. The width is standardized at stud width.

You also need to decide metal or RF-transparent plastic. They both have pros and cons. Metal will help conduct heat away, plastic will let you stick your WiFi and other RF stuff in there. I went with both (more on that).

You also need to decide if you want a standard enclosure cover, hinged cover, extension, etc.

Without further ado, here is the parts list for my structured media cabinets. (Not including anything inside except power).

• 28” metal Leviton SMC enclosure here.
  
• Hinged solid door cover here. If you don’t get the vented extension, get the vented door.
  
• 2” vented depth extension here.
  
  Above the Leviton structured cabinet, I mounted a small plastic one from Channel Vision, a brand with compatible mounting holes (the reason to chose these boxes is everything is mounted by special push-pin).
  
  
• mount it above for better cable routing (notice the cable tray in mine), and to keep it out of the way of the power supply. You can see it here.
  
  Power distribution to and in the cabinet is done with a somewhat convoluted solution compared to new products available. You might want to go with at alter cabinet than mine,
  
  
• Hardwire these plugs here.
  
  Then, instead of my wall mount UPS and convoluted wiring solution for it, simply use:
  
  
• Tripp-lite in enclosure uninterrupted power supply, here.
  
  
  Read up on all the different products for those enclosures and lean on me for what is compatible with what. I learned a ton when I built my house in 2011, and as I have kept it up to day since then.

I have and currently use these:

Makerfocus UPS HAT has a 2500 mah Battery and is pretty good if you only need the pi to be powered (via GPIO), it has 4 LEDs that show the power left on the battery, will not reset the pi with power outage.

SunFounder Lithium Battery Pack Expansion Board is good if you want two usb's plugged in, has a bigger battery than the first one (3800 mah), but no LED indicators, also will reset the pi if power outage.

Vilros Raspberry Pi Back Up Battery has a 8800mah battery, will not reset the power on power outage, is only 1amp output though, can also be used for other things.

PowerBoost 500 & 1000 from Adafruit, both are good for projects, won't reset during power outage and have a LED indicator for low power.

If you have any questions about any of those, I'll be happy to help you out.

Yeah okay 650 sounds fine anyways, if it turns out to be the power something like the following should be a good solution, definitely something to invest into once you want to upgrade.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Standby-UPS-400VA-Outlets/dp/B073Q48YGF/ref=sr_1_22_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536709565&sr=8-22-spons&keywords=uninterruptible%2Bpower%2Bsupply&th=1

So it's definitely a budget purchase ($60) but it works like a charm and has already saved my butt twice. It gave me about 30 minutes to shut down my NAS, and it works with the UPS management software built into DSM.

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Standby-UPS-400VA-Outlets/dp/B073Q48YGF/ref=sr_1_12?gclid=Cj0KCQjwz8bsBRC6ARIsAEyNnvrFjVhvDaQY_YEnqubouMVp2XYMW2I62J3bOtFhbBw6BXePWyEcUMEaAgCjEALw_wcB&hvadid=326732096327&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9033254&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=16925324996256839084&hvtargid=kwd-294537293467&hydadcr=924_1012420393&keywords=computer%2Bups%2Bsystem&qid=1569865980&s=gateway&sr=8-12&th=1

Just like a motorcycle helmet. If you've got a $10 head, you buy a $10 helmet. /s

I've been hit by a lightning strike. It took out almost anything that wasn't protected, from a toaster, to my garage door opener. My computer equipment and home theater were protected by APC battery back-ups and survived just fine. I have a lot invested in my home theater and use an APC Smart-UPS 1500VA UPS Battery Backup with Pure Sine Wave Output to protect my TV, cable box, blu-ray player, receiver, and game consoles. With speakers, I figure that I've got over $10k invested, so protecting it with a $250 battery backup is cheap insurance.

My computers are protected as well, I figure that the data on them is worth a lot more than I spend on the battery back ups.

I also had a whole-house surge protector installed on the main power line that comes into the house. I've tied a lightning surge suppressor into the incoming coax cable that handles my internet and TV subscriptions.

Overkill? I don't think so, some might, but I like my equipment.

I have this one:

APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector with AVR, 850VA, APC Back-UPS Pro (BX850M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP9Q8ZN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TBdEDbT99E9CP

Completely worth it. Never have to worry about the power going out. And even better I can play for an hour with the TV and console on it's battery. And by then, my power is almost always back up by then.

Even better: plug your modem and router in and don't even lose internet

over 6 months tested several models from the major manufacturers for a medium datacenter with a Fluke 1738 and have since leaned towards cyberpower after being an apc and liebert fan for years. cyberpower has cleaner output, more reliable components, affordably priced and great features and expandability...

normally for the same or cheaper price point the cyperpower units came out on top with things like serial/ethernet interfaces built in unlike their competitors...

for the $995 msrp of the 1500va model you linked to... you can get a 2200va with an expanded battery... and you can even add up to 4 expanded batteries...

> I don't want to go for non modular one or break the bank.

Just know that the "modular" flex PSUs are not what a PC Builder thinks of as a modular PSU. Typically, like the Seasonic 300SUG, there is One big plug that has all the cables coming from it (including ones you will not use molex/floppy/sata power). This is because they are designed for 1U servers and the Modularity makes replacing them in a server a lot easier. Has nothing to do with flexibility of choosing which cables to use and not use. Check the Customer photo reviews. So just be mindful at the details of the "modularity" it provides

The FSP 400w is a well regarded, all around decent option for quality. Has 4+4pin for CPU , 6+2 pin for GPU.

The one you listed seems to be a modded modular flex psu, this IS the modular type that PC builders like with having option for cables to use. Not sure on the quality. As from the photos it looks to be a Delta Flex ATX Psu that was modded (You can see the Delta Logo)

What do you mean built in? A PS3 doesn't come from the factory with one built in. If you had one, then why would you be afraid to plug it straight into the wall? A UPS functions similar to a surge protector as well, but it's even better.

This is an example of what I use to protect all my AV equipment:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-UPS-System/dp/B001985SWW/ref=zg_bs_764572_4

Found this for you: http://www.apc.com/products/runtime_for_extendedruntime.cfm?upsfamily=27 on the manufacturer's website.

This page says that the BR1500G (the one you linked) will last a little over 2 hours at 50W. You might get a little longer than that at only 30W, but UPSs are less efficient at lower loading.

Apparently you can also pair that unit with an external battery and get nearly 7 hours, though now you've spent nearly 300$ on batteries.

I hope that helps!

After building my first computer a few weeks ago I decided it would be a good idea to get a UPS to protect it.
The build draws about 550W of power according to pcpartpicker, in addition to that I got dual 1920x1080 monitors (which according to the amazon page draw 23W each) and some other peripherals, so probably 650W under 100% load. I'd also like to leave some headroom for future updates (etc. graphics card SLI, more peripherals).

What kind of UPS should I get for it to be able to power my system for about 5 minutes?

I looked into this: http://www.amazon.de/APC-550VA-Stromsparfunktion-Multifunktionsdisplay-Ger%C3%A4teschutzversicherung/dp/B002RL0CKI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452107172&sr=8-3&keywords=ups#productDetails - Will this be good enough? Do I need the 900VA or 1200VA version?

Would you suggest,

Something like this: [Tripp Lite 500VA Smart UPS Back Up, 300W (SMART500RT1U)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002CUA6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ttb3Cb5BQ7QFK) $162.53

Or something like this? [Tripp Lite 1200VA Smart UPS Battery Back Up, 700W (SMART1200LCD)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E8Z0XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ozb3CbV2BGGGV) $187.29

I'm gonna copy my response to another post:

>UPS size is not directly dependant on the PSU wattage, but the draw of the system you want to keep on. Assuming that you need to power your system at peak load, which would be approximately 150W for a mildly OCed 8700K (could be up to 250W at 1.35v) and 250W for the 2080, that gives us 400-500W of total power draw.

>Now, UPS have two ratings, maximum Watt and VA. Max watt is usually around 60% of the max VA rating, so you'd need a 900-1000VA UPS to keep it safe. This would give you more than enough time (5-10 mins) to save your work and shut down your system. It's overkill for just 15-20 seconds but you need a beefy unit due to high tdp components.

>You have to take into account sine waveform too, that's a bit more technical but you just should get a good quality unit since a low quality one with a not so pure sine waveform might not act as intended with your PSU.

The 8600K has a peak power draw of around 150W when heavily OCed (5Ghz @1.4v), and the 1070Ti draws about 175W. That's about 350W when adding the rest of the components, that would give us a rating of around 600VA, so I would go for this one to have a bit of margin.

I have the 950VA model and has saved me a few times now, no problem whatsoever.

It's not that difficult :)

The servers aren't connecting directly to the wall. They're connected to a UPS (or rather, first a PDU, then the PDU connects to a UPS, then the UPS to the wall). The servers are all ~14g c13 <-> NEMA 5-15p. The PDU also has a 5-15P connector, that plugs into the UPS. My total Draw is ~500W, so a 15A plug is not a problem server side or PDU side. My problem is the UPS. My current UPS is a Cyberpower OR1500LCDRT2U, which has a 5-15p plug, but doesn't last long enough (~20 minutes with full load). I am going to be getting a 2200W one, something like OR2200LCDRTXL2U
that can also take an extended battery pack to increase time. This UPS comes with a 5-20 connector, which will not fit in the 5-15 sockets that the electrician installed. 5-15 will mate to a 5-20 outlet (why the PDU will work in the back of the larger UPS), but 5-20 will not fit in a 5-15, without some sort of adapter.

Make sense now? :)

Of course it can, mine is natural gas, but not as easy for an electric one. I have a UPS hooked to mine, so I can have hot water during power outages. Mine is a standard PC UPS form APC, with a supplemental extra battery pack hooked into it for a combines 3000VA of power. Mine is US, so 120volt, and is a Rinnai RUC98i, which can heat 9.8 Gal/min. You only need power to run the igniter, and then the brain to allow it to measure and mix the heated water with fresh water in order to bring it to the temperature the unit is set to.

When the unit is on (and mixing hot with cold water) it draws more than when idle. If I leave it on 24/7 it has juice for about 2-3 days of powering just the tankless. If I unplug it when not about to use it, easily a week of power.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Y24DEU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0047E5B90/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I paid $200 for this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZRY9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It's not that bad, but people do recommend just throwing them out (apparently, they're not 'user replaceable batteries'. You install PowerChute on to a Windows machine (VM) and it can turn off your servers if you'd like. I've never seen a UPS that can turn the machine back on (weird).

I have the OR700LCDRM1U and I'm really happy with it. It is louder when on battery than my tower units though, and I'd be curious if that's unique to mine or if I should look to replace as I haven't heard that complaint from anyone else.

My only real complaints are that the run time isn't great, exactly as advertised and what I expected, but it'd be nice if there was a 2U shallow depth model available.

Has been solid as a rock for me though.

I did some additional research and I'm thinking I also like this item: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQYX4UX

You can remove that battery and stick a fatter 3.7V battery on that UPS and get all the features we're both looking for! Bigger battery + cool features like voltage detection.

The MotoMaster power box's AC inverter is rated at 600W, which is more than enough power to keep the antenna and other device running.

As for how long they will last, the battery says it can do 12v and 28Ah. That means you have a total of 336 watt-hours to work with. Assuming a worst case draw of (7 + 5) = 12 watts, that would suggest you would get about 28 hours of run-time off that unit. Unfortunately nothing is 100% efficient, but you should easily exceed the 4 hour minimum, and will probably get at least 12 hours of run-time.

If you want something like the portable power outlet, you could use an unprintable power supply like this:

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-UPS-System/dp/B001985SWW/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1410816369&sr=8-4&keywords=UPS+power

According to their data, you can get a runtime of 40+ hours for a ~12W load. Just plug it in to charge the battery fully, then unplug, strap to the tripod and plug the two power adapters in.

Then yeah, a good quality UPS would solve that problem. Probably going to cost you north of $100 though. Or you could get a nicer fridge and sell off the old one cheap.

UPS:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-1300VA-Line-Interactive-SMART1300LCDT/dp/B00AX9Z7W4/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473445980&sr=1-4&keywords=ups&refinements=p_89%3ATripp+Lite

Fridge:

https://www.amazon.com/Igloo-FR326M-D-BLACK-Erase-Refrigerator-Markers/dp/B01D151EFA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473445936&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+fridge&refinements=p_72%3A2661618011

You shouldn't need to run it off battery 100% of the time, but the UPS should support sinewave. I'm partial to APC battery backups myself. We use them at work for our servers, routers, and ATM machines. Some of the ATMs I service are in some really old buildings. A simple APC SMC1500 which goes for around $300 should be perfect for your usage. My issue with recommending a dedicated line conditioner is that you'll be masking the real problem. You should really hire a licensed electriction to inspect the wiring. You might be surprised to find out the problem is something small like bad wires going to the wall outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-SMC1500-Smart-UPS-Interface-Uninterrupted/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=1-6&keywords=APC+UPS

Remember when power goes out it doesn't mean you have zero hot water, you have simply lost the ability to produce more hot water. You still have 40gal of hot water in your tank.

The thing is, UPS system's aren't really designed for backup power unless you add a crapload of additional battery capacity. They're designed to keep running for just long enough for you to either gracefully shutdown and power off your equipment, or hookup a longer-term power source such as a generator.

I have this 1500VA model from APCC along with this extended runtime battery hooked up to my home PC. Dual 24" monitors plus a mid-range older desktop. Power goes out, I have maybe an hour of battery. Without the add-on battery pack, it lasts fifteen minutes.

I have a smaller 1200VA UPS for my wireless router and DSL modem, last time the power went out I think the timer on it said somewhere around 300 minutes of runtime remaining. That's with hardly anything plugged into it - if I had a PC hooked up, it would probably be 30 minutes or less.

You're really better off just getting a generator.

As good as that is, power outages are the exact reason I bought one of these. Got my TV, PS3, sound system, and computer all hooked up to it. Doesn't last forever, but more than enough to save everything and shut down properly.

LOL yes, that's an online version, which is why it's so expensive. A similar rated line interactive model would be closer to $110-120 or so.

Edit: Here's an example 600W CyberPower modelfor $110, and a slghtly larger 720W Tripp-Lite model for $123

This is my current go-to with my current setup, but it can be a bit more expensive than some will want to shell out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06VY6FXMM/

A cheaper alternative is, which also has less expensive versions as well, but they have less volt-amps, so will not power your system for as long. I tend to oversize the UPS as a just-in-case, giving my system ample time to shut down properly on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC21FE/

Suggestion for a UPS is spot on. We put these under everybody's desk and I have a bigger one in the studio. It'll keep your machine alive long enough to save and shutdown, and smooth out those little drop outs. Interface, PC, monitor, etc. all go into it, but none of the outboard gear, since we won't be recording in the dark anyway. Note, if you're hoping to keep working, internet usually drops out because while you can backup up your switch and modem, the cable company doesn't UPS their gear. Phone company does, but DSL...

IF the power cut happens while the PS4 was writing data to the disk, you will lose that data (a save file corruption for example) but it will not damage your hardware.
If you have psychological issues, then the above info will not help you manage your fear. What will help you though is investing into a simple UPS (uninterruptible power supply) to which you should connect your PS4 and your TV, like this one for example
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779KYKLB

Do not buy surge protectors, that will do nothing for the power out and most UPS devices have surge protection built in.

Once you get the UPS, you can relax knowing that even if the power gets cut, you will have enough electricity in the UPS's batter to safely stop the game and shut down your PS4.

You could also go about trying to find the cheapest "Smart" UPS that has a web interface. TrippLite has 1KVa units for about $1k that would definitely do the job.

You could also look into cheaper desktop-type UPSes, something like this has a web interface and allow remote outlet shutoff. https://www.amazon.com/APC-BG500-Back-UPS-Pro-500/dp/B00DW2J7SY

I run the stove plugged into an APC 850VA UPS/surge protector. Do you think that is insufficient? Is there something better I should be using to protect it from voltage spikes?

I got this one for my project recently. Very good value. 55 watt load will last about 50 minutes.

Yeah, I did a bunch of research on available UPS hats to make my Pi CUPS print server more reliable last week.

There are a bunch of clones based on the same design on Amazon and other sites, at the moment they all share the same design and software and all are affected by the same issues. The clones I've seen are UGeek, Geekworm and Makerfocus. Check out some of the reviews if you're curious.

Given that you can get a nice APC ups for about $114 with AVR and surge protection I would just go that route.

If you need AVR a ups is a good idea.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Watts-Output-System/dp/B002RCNX8K/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1335293389&sr=1-2

Thanks for the tips! Will check them out!

I also found this which seems a reasonable price:
APC Power-Saving Back-UPS PRO - BR550GI - Uninterruptible Power Supply 550VA (AVR, 6 Outlets IEC-C13, USB, Shutdown Software) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002RL0CKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oR1JDbA4M775S

Think that would be ok?

If you go the path of a Raspi, use a power control circuit hat that makes it portable to an extent, make a large battery pack using your choice of battery media something like this but get a bigger battery, a USB wireless adapter with an external antenna port so you can get better reception.

I run the 1400VA one in my lab. It's been great.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/APC-Back-UPS-BX-Uninterruptible-Shutdown/dp/B00T7BYV6W/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1523022567&sr=1-6&keywords=ups

Believe it is an older model of this guy:
https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Battery-Rack-Mount-SMART1500LCD/dp/B000DZRY9C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549348055&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Tripp+Lite+UPS&dpPl=1&dpID=41ATThlgN4L&ref=plSrch

Sits at the bottom of a Telco rack, with a 24port trendnet switch, an EdgeRouter, a 8 port POE ToughSwitch and a Motorola cable modem. Server is an old build with an i3 with a 500gb SSD and 4x3TB WD Reds.

APC makes better "floor" models with full battery backup, like this one

Better than a surge protector is a power backup like this one from apc.

If the power goes out briefly your console will never know. And if the power stays off, you'll have time to properly shut down.

APC UPS 850VA Battery Backup & Surge Protector, APC UPS BackUPS Pro (BX850M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WP9Q8ZN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8jvaCbZB7RPK2

I have my DS918+ on a APC Back-UPS Pro 1500 (BR1500G), along with cable modem and UniFi network gear. It's great for all that.

The BR1500G's are a slightly older model and the newer version is BR1500MS that has a better sine wave output.

There is a BR1000MS (1000VA) model which is a little cheaper with shorter run time if it is just the NAS right running on it. Just under $150 at Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779KYKLB/


There is also a BR700G (700VA slightly older model) that still seems still available for around $114 at Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RCNX8K/


There are some smaller units, but usually they don't have the USB connection to tell the NAS when to shut down. There may be something out there a little less money, but not that I am aware of at the moment.

It is the APC SMC1500.

I went a little ^a ^lot overkill when I bought it. Works great though.

I have this power supply, and I want this backup UPS. I read a bunch of things about pure-sine requirement or whatever so now I'm not sure if this UPS will work with my PSU but I can't find anything online- can anyone direct me to resources or otherwise help me find the answer? edit: in case anyone asks here is my build https://pcpartpicker.com/user/wendon0/saved/6ZbD3C

>
> (Remember, you are the guy who compared a UPS to the Note 7 which has a lithium battery, and is not even close to being in the same situation?)

The way a battery functions is through a chemical reaction, which both a lithium ion battery and a lead acid are based on (lithum ion happens to be a bit more efficient) and both have similar risks. Also there is UPSes that use lithium ion batteries.


> If I have a rack full of UPS's, its the same risk

yes it is a similar risk see this


> I did not ask for your advice, because I already know that its perfectly safe to do this.

I'm just pointing out the risks to you, your family, and your property. I can see you are convinced and are going to do this regardless of the risks and recommendations...

That's the USG3P. The USG-PRO-4 is a 19" rack mount device (top device in the picture). For anyone interested, the second device is a 24 AT-250w (US-24-250w beta device), and the third device is a CyberPower OR500LCDRM1U UPS.

​

For anyone about to reply, "But michrech -- the second 'device' in your rack is a patch panel!" -- I don't consider that a 'device'... ;)

APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector with USB Charger, 850VA, APC Back-UPS (BE850M2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC21FE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YwTPCbY5VK3QD

Your new best friend. Power went out for about an hour one time and I didn’t miss a beat. Plug your modem, monitor, pc and wheel into that bad boy and you never have to worry about a surge or the power going out ever again.

Get yourself a desktop power supply - something like this one - when you get it, you can easily adjust the voltage to 13.8v.

Run it with a good sized UPS - like this one.

Now, once it's all hooked up - just replace the UPS battery with your larger, 12V SLA and rock on!

Yea, I know it's not the most efficient - but it works.

I've had terrible luck with these Tripplites, and would never recommend them to anyone. I've used other models of theirs without issue. If you check the reviews for them, you'll find others feel the same. The fact that they still pump these things out and put them on the shelves bothers me.

APC seems to be about the same quality as Cyberpower. I agree that the LCDs on the Cyberpower are pretty nice though, and you can often get one with LCD for the same price as an APC without. That alone makes it worth it. Cyberpower also offers PFC compliant power supplies using their "pure sine wave" technology for much less than you'd pay for other brands. I've read that it's not as clean of a sine wave as what you get in a high end UPS, but I've never had an issue with it affecting PSU longevity.

Haven't used any of the Dells, so I can't speak for them. Overall though, my vote goes to Cyberpower. It's all I usually buy now, and it's what I've been using at home for the past 2-3 years.

If you dont need rack mounted, Ive found my APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS with the extended Battery to be very good. Current load is 130w and runtime is 178 mins.
If I turn on the desktop that is also on there, runtime drops to just over an hour with the combined ~250w load.

I have it connected to my FreeNAS whitebox via the included USB, with NUT running on FreeNAS that shuts down the rest of the applicable servers via network.

Total cost new: ~$310 USD.


Edit: N.U.T.

I use http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AX9Z7W4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00
for my 6700k, 980Ti, AX 760W gaming rig and I love it so far.

this is just for home use? get a UPS. Anything above 500VA would probably power both all night if the power went out. To be safe, get something beefier.

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505343694&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=apc+ups&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Smart-UPS-1500VA-Battery-SMC1500/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505343694&sr=1-6&keywords=apc+ups

I have an APC UPS rated at 700VA. It'll drive my computer (970 build with an 850W PSU) and ultrawide 29" monitor for about "15" minutes. That's long enough to shut down gracefully. I put 15 in quotes because I've never waited for the battery to run out.

this is the model I have

Hey. Any way to tell if this battery module is compatible with the Pi 4 B in terms of voltage/power consumption etc? Thanks!

battery module

850VA can only sustain about 500W generally. By the time you account for your PSU's inefficiencies, it's possible you'd be pulling more from the UPS than that.

You'd probably want to go with at least a 1000va unit like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0779KYKLB/

Thanks for the question, here's specs:

Cabinet itself:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A2JE1SU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Machines (top to bottom):

1. Core i7 3.40 quad core, 32gb ram, 1tb ssd, 2 2tb drives in RAID used mostly for GIS application processing
   
   
2. Core i7 3.00 quad core, 16gb ram, ~14tb storage, used as media center/plex host
   
   
3. Core i7 3.40 quad core, 16gb ram, 1tb ssd, 1tb data drive, radeon 7950, primary development machine/gaming rig
   
4. Rackmount UPS for all 3 systems:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DZRY9C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   

Nice. You might add a UPS to your plans to protect your equipment. This one costs a bit more than your typical desktop UPS, but it would mount up in your rack and has the LCD display that show runtime and battery status info. https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR500LCDRM1U-System-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B000XJJN60

Tripp Lite 1500VA Smart UPS Battery Back Up, 900W Rack-Mount/Tower, LCD, AVR, USB, DB9 (SMART1500LCD) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZRY9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9SKzCbPZQA5CJ

I've had my eye on this, its tempting. This is also the only UPS in the series that can use the external battery pack for a big boost in run time.

For anyone I suggest getting a battery backup, for situations like this, or even just random power outages.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Battery-Protector-BE350G/dp/B001985SWW

>I'm thinking max it's going to be drawing about 500W at any one time.

Probably a lot less. You need something like killawatt to tell you the real amount of power you're using.

I'd probably get this. Its no frills, cheap, and battle-tested.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-SMC1500-Smart-UPS-Interface-Uninterrupted/dp/B007ZT2KKM/ref=lp_764572_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1418914712&sr=1-10

1500VA is going to be highest VA rating for a 120V line. This model also comes in as a rackmount.

Get a 1000VA/600W unit like this one.

Edit: if you need it to be powered on for an hour, get the 1500VA unit + Quad-battery expansion.

I added up the max wattage of your stuff (guessing on the 24 switch and USG4P) and got a high value of 1000w (generous max). I would get something like these:

•This has a 7mIn runtime at 1000w, but you most likely won’t use the max wattage.
APC 1500VA Smart-UPS with SmartConnect, Pure Sine Wave UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protection (SMC1500C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077Y62GSJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QtX7AbW4TGNXS

•APC Back-UPS Pro 1500VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BR1500G) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Y24DEU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rhX7Ab65SDWHN

The Back-UPS Pro allows for a battery expansion if needed. This one:

•APC External Battery Backup Pack for Model BR1500G (BR24BPG) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047E5B90/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MnX7AbGMCVXPT

Look more at the watts and runtime then volts. You can get rack mount versions but they will be higher cost.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q48YGF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

This is the backup I use. You also need to bring a charger with you but I think it's worth it

16 amps for a pc ups?

That device is far more powerful than a PC needs and 10 times the cost unless you intend to run it for long periods in a power cut.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/APC-Back-UPS-BX-Uninterruptible-Shutdown/dp/B00T7BYV6W/ref=sr_1_1/254-5854156-6804263?ie=UTF8&qid=1484900721&sr=8-1&keywords=pc+ups

UPS, not PSU. You may be able to find one used for cheap. These are good and inexpensive as well.

Some UPS can send and email under certain circumstances (i.e. power outage).

EXAMPLE

I have not tested this one, just the first example I could find.

I bought the APC equivalent because it has an expansion slot for more battery capacity. (it's an additional unit)

I picked up the UPS+Battery for ~$220 off Amazon used.

Brand new drives typically carry a 3 or 5 year warranty, contact the manufacturer's support site and submit an RMA request. Just say it stopped being recognized by the computer, that you tried new SATA cables, and even a USB dock or something. Just don't mention anything about a power surge, those kinds of incidents are not covered by warranties.

Also, invest in an battery backup if the electrical in your home is that spotty.

Do you think a 600w UPS would be fine for my system? I really don't need it to power for more than 1-5 minutes, and my total system load on pcpartpicker is about 350w.. Similar to the one you linked: https://www.amazon.com/APC-Sinewave-Battery-Protector-BR1000MS/dp/B0779KYKLB

What do you guys know about UPSs? I bought an 850w APC thats giving me issues. At first I had my stereo receiver, a 42" TV, my PC (750w PSU), my 28" monitor, and a USB hub all plugged into it and in the middle of the night it started beeping. one long continuous beep. then I unplugged everything but the PC, hub, and monitor and it was still doing it. seems it does it on start up too. I left everything off with the UPS plugged in and off (to charge, I guess) and it still did it. Any ideas?

Edit- sorry guys. It’s actually brad new. Only been using it a couple days

You need a 12v battery coupled with an inverter, or a UPS.

You'll want to check the wattage on your device - that UPS can handle 300 watts. You're looking at several hundred bucks whichever way you go.

Probably not, it'll even complain if it's in rest mode and loses connectivity. I would say it's more annoying than anything.

In the event you don't have it on a good surge protector already, I would do that and maybe consider a cheap UPS like this.

That way if you're power is just literally flickering/dying momentarily you have a 4-5 minute window.

I have a few PoE switches on a small wall-mount rack and I use a few of these (depending on load and longevity of backup time): http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR700LCDRM1U-Smart-700VA-Rackmount/dp/B000XJLLKG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453317342&sr=8-1&keywords=1u+UPS

They have an HTTP card if you want to manage remotely (pretty handy for remote power cycles, etc)

Yeah. After that CPU was determined as failed, that machine has never NOT be plugged into a UPS and since that time, that machine has never had an issue.

> You can ask COX about getting a drop into that room, but they probably won't do it for you unless you get TV service. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it, but I understand what you are saying.

Well, I need to get coax in there somehow to connect to the modem. I don't know if this is something I can do or not.

> I would get a PDU for your rack, it will simplify everything when you put it in, and it has a 10 foot cable. I have it run into my UPS and my UPS plugged into the wall.

I actually got a rack mountable UPS. I went with this one. I tried looking for the length of the cable but couldn't find it. I can always open the box and find out when I go over to the new house later. I still have no idea how to ground the rack.

Depending on your tank size and power draw, a UPS could keep your filter / heater running for some time.

But not indefinitely.

They range from about $40 to thousands, depending on capacity.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-Back-UPS-6-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B001985SWW?ie=UTF8&keywords=apc%20ups&qid=1465327349&ref_=sr_1_4&s=pc&sr=1-4

Get one, never look back. I had a power outage take out 2 of my monitors. Should have bought one of these a long time ago. You can even configure it (via a USB connection and some software) to auto shut down the PC for longer power outages so it doesn't drain the battery.

If you really need longer power duration throw one of these in there as well.

EDIT: Do some research because there can be issues with compatibility depending on if the device needs pure sine waveform or can used stepped approximation.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-BR700G-Back-UPS-6-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B002RCNX8K/ref=sr_1_21?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1469494692&sr=1-21&keywords=UPS

720VA/420w. 420 watts is about right to cover all typical printer possibilities. You might be able to get away with less with a smaller printer, or one that doesn't have a heated bed.

This one is very close .. it MIGHT work but don't quote me. The dimensions are in the description of you scroll down. Says it has a depth of 10.5 inches.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZRY9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M8szDbFF1YHZG

Don't connect it to your computer. Connect it directly to your modem/router via ethernet and then use a small UPS to power your modem and the MagicJack. With the minimal load of just the modem/router and the MagicJack it should last for a few hours.

http://www.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-UPS-System/dp/B001985SWW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398894685&sr=8-2&keywords=ups

http://smile.amazon.com/APC-BE350G-Back-UPS-6-outlet-Uninterruptible/dp/B001985SWW/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463872202&sr=1-3&keywords=APC+UPS

I have to use one because of occasional brownouts messing with my Pi/Arduino.

buy a Google AIY voice kit (https://aiyprojects.withgoogle.com/) and this Raspberry pi battery https://www.amazon.com/Makerfocus-Raspberry-2500mAh-Lithium-Battery/dp/B01MQYX4UX/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1517536401&sr=8-7&keywords=raspberry+pi+battery then put the battery on first. then bam you have a portable google home

Ok, to sum things up, it seems like typically

Watts / VA = ~0.6 to 0.7

The linked PC's power supply outputs 150 Watts, resulting in a VA of ~215 to 250. Thus, were I in the US, an APC Back-UPS ES, 6 outlet 350VA, 120V would be sufficient. However, because I'm in Japan, I need to find something that can handle 100V. The APC ES 550 BE550G-JP is probably overkill, but the options seem fairly limited compared to what's available for 120V.

So the battery packs listed by the other guy are generally only for camping/portable use. If you are just worried about power outages in the house, you want a UPS (uninterrupted power supply). Something like this one. It puts a battery between the cpap and the wall, so if power goes out it falls back to battery on its own. If you download the software for it, you can disable the alarms so the buzzer doesn't go off in your sleep if you lose power. This one would be good for occasional power outages of a few hours. you'd want a higher capacity for longer times.

They usually say pure sine wave. They're also usually a little more expensive. Here are a couple examples:

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Smart-UPS-1500VA-Battery-SMC1500/dp/B007ZT2KKM

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP1500PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N19W

There are uninterruptible power supplies for the Pi's.

So that is a 550va that lasts for about 20min. So then a 1300va would last for around 45min?

http://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-SMART1300LCDT-1300VA-Battery/dp/B00AX9Z7W4/ref=sr_1_184?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1457455368&sr=1-184&keywords=ups+battery+backup

>BR550GI

https://www.amazon.de/APC-550VA-Stromsparfunktion-Multifunktionsdisplay-Ger%C3%A4teschutzversicherung/dp/B002RL0CKI (Sorry, in German ;))

Buy a UPS

Check this out at Amazon.com
AmazonBasics Standby UPS 600VA 360W Surge Protector Battery Backup, 8 Outlets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Q48YGF/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_AiXPDbRVQKF6Z

I don't see the exact model I have listed anymore. But it is close to this model. Pick the size you need for your computer

This is what it is. Might be bigger. Replacement batteries look to be around $20 non-OEM

Amazon

LPT: get a UPS with USB ports, so when charging phones or tablets you're not going from DC --> AC --> DC

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Protector-Charging-BE850M2/dp/B01HDC21FE/

https://www.amazon.it/APC-Back-UPS-BX-continuit%C3%A0-Shutdown/dp/B00T7BYV6W something like this, but you have to check how many VA you need for your rig

What are the rules regarding sizing? Can I run an entire rack off a small one?
E.g., https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR500LCDRM1U-System-Outlets-Rackmount/dp/B000XJJN60

I have the NUC7PJYH loaded with 8GB of RAM and a 250GB SSD running on an AmazonBasics 600VA/360W (their cheapest model with a USB port for automated shutdown: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B073Q48YGF

This looks to be a rebranded CyberPower Systems model, as the software you can download is PowerChute (Windows and MacOS only). This specific model is not listed on the compatible hardware page for Network UPS Tools, but it should work if it's a CyberPower retread.

Currently $50.

I'd say use a UPS : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/aw/d/B002RL0CKI/ref=sspa_mw_detail_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You gotta get yourself a UPS. Just bought mine:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XJLLKG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I am using one of these, have not had any issues so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073Q48YGF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC21FE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's dope.

OK, maybe only for 2 laptops - https://www.amazon.com/APC-External-Battery-BR1500G-BR24BPG/dp/B0047E5B90

They say that 50 Wt ~= 7 hours

Or it's bad idea?

Hey Thanks! That an UPS/Surge Protector

Its the lowest power one but is all I needed since the total sum of all that is running is ~100 watts. It will give me about 45 minutes of uptime if the power goes out but then the NAS will shut itself down after 10 minutes of no power which would allow the modem and router to stay on much longer. Has been a life saver for my little power blips during storms since I work from home.

Run one drop on the walls where you know you won’t need additional drops there. If you need to use the single drops in the future, just bring in a switch. For the locations that you need more than one drop right now, just run the additional cables. It’s best to avoid switches in your network.

This is my setup:

Tripp Lite 9U Rack

Cable Matters patch panel x2 - 1U

UniFi switch - 48 port - 1U

UniFi bundle (cloud key, AP, security gateway)

Tripp Lite UPS - 2U

I used Cable Matters Cat6 . If you go with another brand, make sure it doesn’t contain CCA conductors, you want full copper.
Try to avoid surveillance solutions that rely on wireless connectivity, I’m not a big fan of it. Ubiquiti’s surveillance gear isn’t that bad, I believe the UniFi G3 has two way audio.

I got the older generation of this UPS for around $50 as a Lightning Deal to try out. A few months later I bought another one. A year after that I bought the new one.
Now I've got one for my NAS/Router/Modem. One for my TV/Stereo/HTPC. One for my Desktop/Printer. Total investment... around the cost of a last-years-model color wifi laser printer.
I don't have to worry about frying my sensitive electronics when (for example) the power surges during a severe thunder storm.
Half the time I only notice the power "flickered" because my oven clock is blinking.

Tripp Lite 550VA Audio/Video Backup Power Block UPS - Exclusive UPS Protection for Structured Wiring Enclosure (AV550SC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WS0CRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X.7XCbJPC49KQ

• Protect his PC and other tech accessories with an Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS) / Battery Backup
  
  
• Try to find tickets for the Force Awakens (may be tough and it opens December 18 so it'd be a "before Christmas" gift)
  
  
• Buy an assortment of Star Wars related items from ThinkGeek
  
  
• A shipment (or 2 or 3) from one of the many Beer of the Month Clubs

It's a cheaper unit, so it's probably not the best. I have four of this exact model total. I use one for my desktop, mac, and in my bedroom to run my receiver and television. No problems on any of those units. The description reads "Waveform Type: Stepped approximation to a sinewave" and here is a link to it. I guess I need to shell out for a better unit. I also have a more expensive one I use for my main television, receiver, router, modem, and switch in my living room.

I currently have a CyberPower UPS, i.e. http://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-OR700LCDRM1U-Smart-700VA-Rackmount/dp/B000XJLLKG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418059449&sr=8-2&keywords=rack+mount+ups... and I have connected it to a VM via UPS (A & B ends) and it tells me the wattage used to run based upon what is connected. This is much more cheap compared to smartonline series from Tripplite. The limitation is it isn't accessable via SNMP for that requires a network card add-on... :(