Reddit reviews: The best computer cables & adapters

We found 2,012 Reddit comments discussing the best computer cables & adapters. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 201 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

Top Reddit comments about Computer Cable Adapters:

u/OwThatHertz · 1 pointr/VRGaming

Warning: long post, but you asked, so... ;-) Note: Recycling some of my older comments with specifics for your post.

What CPU and GPU do/will you have? Do you have enough room to walk around, or just enough to swing your arms? What kind of games do you prefer? These answers have an impact on the "best" headset (HMD) for you. Think of it this way: what's the best car? The answer is different if your priorities are fuel economy, cargo space, towing capacity, or top speed/acceleration.

"Best" Games:

"Best games" is really subjective. Do you like puzzle games? Action? RTS? "Experiences" Racing/flying/space simulators? FPS? (Note: FPS in VR is very different from FPS on a screen.) Each platform has enough good games that this shouldn't impact your buying decision much. I have favorites on each, but Oculus has the most exclusives. (Often considered a bad thing for the VR industry.)

I own the Vive (non-Pro), Rift, and Samsung Odyssey, and I've used the PSVR (briefly) so my comments are based on use of all three.

Easiest to use for a newbie:

The Rift is slightly easier to use than the Vive (though not by much) due to its streamlined and consumer-oriented user experience, at the cost of capability and options. The Vive has more options flexibility but can sometimes be a little more hassle to troubleshoot if things go wrong. Then again, fixing it when things go wrong is less likely to require a complete reinstall like Oculus does. Windows Mixed Reality setup is easy but it's clearly a Microsoft experience. It's like the Rift was designed by marketers, the Vive by engineers, and WMR by a project manager. Winner: Rift, by a hair, with WMR limping along in the rear.

Oculus Rift:

Lighter and easier to deal with. Has built-in audio. Some really nice platform exclusives, though there is a way to play those on the Vive. (More on that shortly.) Cheaper than the Vive, and cheapest option in general other than some Windows Mixed Reality HMDs that you should probably avoid. Tracking is slightly inferior to the Vive, but not much. Seated/standing experiences work slightly better than roomscale. However, roomscale is feasible on the Rift with only two sensors by mounting them in opposite corners of your play area. Requires at least 3 USB 3 ports, 4 if you add a 3rd sensor. Games/apps purchased through the Oculus Store won't work on another HMD (barring 3rd party hacks/apps like LibreVR/ReVive, limiting your future hardware upgrade options so buy any non-Oculus exclusives through the Steam store. Touch controllers are the current king for controllers, but Knuckle controllers for Vive/SteamVR are pending. (More on that shortly.) More pronounced "god rays" than the Vive. The business practices and politics of Facebook/Oculus are questionable, if you care about that sort of thing. HTC just opened its VR store to Oculus users so you have more buying options than you used to, though I prefer buying through Steam.

HTC Vive:

The Vive Pro is more than double the Vive's cost and isn't that much better, so I won't go into it much here. The Vive has somewhat better tracking than the Rift and Roomscale works slightly better, in my experience. No built-in audio on the regular Vive but this is resolved with the Deluxe Audio Strap, albeit for $100 more. Games are (usually) purchased through Steam, which means you can take advantage of Steam sales, buy games at a discount (sometimes 80-90% off!) from third-party sites like Humble Bundle, Green Man Gaming, etc. Note, however, that the Rift is compatible with most VR games on Steam, too. You can also play Rift exclusives using free, third-party software called ReVive, but that this is not officially supported and not every game works. (Tricks Rift titles into thinking a Rift is connected.) Controllers are meh but work fine; just not as intuitive or comfortable as the Rift's. When (might be a while) the Knuckles controllers finally come out, they'll probably be the best. The Vive is more glasses-friendly but those who are just nearsighted won't necessarily need to wear glasses at all. There's a new wireless adapter that's nice but only applies if you're driving it with a desktop PC because it uses a PCIe card rather than USB. For non-wireless, one nice thing about the Vive is that the HMD only uses one USB 3.0 and one HDMI port. The Lighthouses (base stations) only need power and don't require USB.

Samsung Odyssey (WMR):

Higher resolution display, on par with the Vive Pro, which equates to a much less pronounced "screen door effect" (gridlines between pixels) than others. This is very nice for detailed games like racing games or flight/space sims with small dials or text. Significantly lesser support for games and experiences. That said, just because an app doesn't explicitly state it works with WMR doesn't mean it won't... but it might not. Controllers are pretty bad compared to the others and it's easy to accidentally end up in a menu. Tracking is also worse (uses inside-out tracking, so no sensors), but still significantly better than I thought it would be. This won't matter much if at all for seated or standing experiences; just for roomscale. The benefit is that you can do VR on the go with a gaming laptop. (At least a 1070 Max Q, though a full 1070 or 1080 is recommended.) The cable is significantly shorter than the others so roomscale is somewhat limited. There are specific cases (for example: archery games) where the controllers will end up out of view of the HMD's cameras, breaking tracking. While tracking isn't perfect, it's "good enough" and I bring it with me regularly.

Other Windows Mixed Reality HMDs:

The Lenovo Explorer gets some good reviews and sometimes goes on sale for as little as $170 with controllers. (Note: it can be found cheaper without controllers but you need controllers for most VR experiences.) It's important to note that the Lenovo Explorer (and all other WMR HMDs other than the the Samsung Odyssey) lacks IPD adjustment to save cost. IPD means interpupilary distance and is the distance between your eyes. However, using an HMD without the right IPD can cause nausea, blurriness, and headaches and can ruin your VR experience so I'd recommend one that has it. The Samsung Odyssey and Lenovo Explorer are the only WMR that I've heard consistently good things about. The others are cheap but lack features, perform poorly, or both. Note: WMR requires Windows to be completely up to date and will hang upon installlation (when you plug in your HMD) with no apparent reason why. Update Windows before using.


Poor quality lenses and tracking that isn't on par with the others, even WMR. This is what you buy if you own a Playstation and can't afford/aren't interested in buying or building a gaming PC. Some nice exclusives, though. IPD adjustment isn't great.

A note about VR graphics:

To avoid nausea, VR generally has to run at about 90 Hz, which can reduce model/texture complexity. However, people have done amazing things with VR so you simply don't notice. Lone Echo (Oculus exclusive), for example, has stunning visuals. (Story, mechanics, and pure immersive feeling are also excellent.) Lone Echo is VR done right, and feels like an AAA title. The Climb is another example of incredible visuals and reasonable immersion. The Climb is currently making the rounds (again) of Reddit via this GIF. Skyrim VR is another example of impressive visuals in VR. Skyrim is somewhat dated, but yes; those incredible photorealistic immersion mods from desktop Skyrim work in VR and you can totally play Skyrim VR seated. Follow this guide and remove Immersive Armor (buggy), replace WICO with TCM, and you're set... after 6 hours of setup. ;-) All of that said... you're looking at a 1080p monitor magnified by relatively cheap optics no matter which rout you go. You are going to notice the pixels, but you'll forget about it pretty quickly as you get distracted by the experiences and visuals. The only exception will be games with small details like flight/space sims. These really need higher res than VR can realistically provide though this may change with 20-series GPUs. For everything else, you'll mostly forget about the issue.

Cable lengths:

All VR HMD cables are too short. You can buy extension cables, but some work and some don't... sometimes with no apparent reason. I've found this HDMI cable and this USB extension cable works to extend the HDM for both the Vive and the Rift, and this USB extension cable works to extend Rift cameras. If you buy both a Vive and a Rift at some point, the extension cables I linked for the HMDs can go to the Vive's breakout box and then either the Vive or Rift can plug into that with success. The Samsung Odyssey does NOT work when plugged into the Vive's breakout box but I haven't yet tested the extension cables so it might work if the breakout box isn't present.


My recommendation for first-time VR on a budget is the Oculus Rift unless you can afford the Vive (so long as you can also afford the Delux Audio Strap), in which case I'd recommend the Vive. The Samsung Odyssee is also a decent solution but at its price point I'd generally recommend the others unless the majority of your usage will be seated, in highly-detailed simulators or similar games, or unless you bring it with you a lot.

u/kevynwight · 2 pointsr/Vive

> I'm gonna need extensions.

I had good luck with 10 foot for each via Amazon.

  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE/
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/


    > Overall, setup was 9/10, but I'm giving it 5/10 because of the issues I had.

    Similar here. I can see how it's supposed to be very smooth and quick, and I think re-establishing setup (if I were portable) would be very quick, but I had a number of issues that prolonged things.


    > This does require you to have a lit room

    This was disconcerting for me as well as preventing me from using VR sometimes since my VR area borders the den/living room and the breakfast nook and my wife often vetoed the turning up of all the lights (in the evenings).


    > Controller tracking 8/10

    I'd only give them 6/10. It's highly dependent on tolerance, body type, play style, and which game / experience you're using. My thoughts: https://www.reddit.com/r/WindowsMR/comments/7qlhde/samsung_odyssey_owners_are_you_happy/dsq5nh5/


    > You will notice some black smear

    I started noticing more of it as I dug back through my backlog of games and apps. The Quake II SteamVR environment, Allummette (the night scenes), and the large theater room in BigScreen are three places that had pretty awful black smear that I remember. In other places it was not noticeable though.


    > Colors are also very vibrant

    I agree, I thought the color pop was excellent and fun in the Odyssey, and simply made me want to try a lot of different things to see what they looked like.


    > I think it's a tad bigger at least for me

    Interesting, my buddy and I both thought his Vive with DAS and 6mm pad had the slight edge in terms of FOV, as well as amount of pupil swim, and there was something subtley not quite as impressive about either the binocular overlap or just the "closeness" of images in the Odyssey, but it was still very good and the great contrast and higher resolution made up for it.


    > The forehead pad and back pad are nice and comfortable with most of the weight resting on the forehead and off of the nose/cheek area.

    Eventually that forehead pad really started to dig into my forehead. I had a couple sessions that gave me real pain. Here was my solution: https://imgur.com/a/a9lqJ


    > The damn nose flaps.

    I totally agree! These would block about 70% of my nasal airflow! But there is an easy fix -- fold them back in behind the lenses. Works great, stays in place, and is easily reversible.


    > They are comfortable and easy to position.

    I found them a bit hard to get a good seal with. The DAS seems more articulatable which helps get a better on-ear seal which gives it the potential for a bit more perceived bass and therefore a bit more balanced frequency response. But neither holds up against my Audio-Technica ATH-M50s. I'm hopeful the Vive Pro audio addresses that a little more.


    > If you are looking for a portable VR experience with a laptop or like to travel and show others VR without having to set up lighthouses or cameras

    Yep, that is definitely the big benefit of the Odyssey. It can't be beat for that type of use case. It was kind of lost on me (no laptop, single permanent VR space at home), and I eventually decided due to the substandard controllers and controller tracking that it was worth more turned back into $486 so I returned it after 8 weeks due to Microsoft's very generous holiday return policy. I knew I'd miss it (certain aspects of it) and I do. If I were more into sims and had a driving setup it would have been a tougher call by far.

    I do hope they pull together a version with more cameras that can handle the controllers getting close to the cameras and operate in lower light. Best would be some way to give the controllers actual inside-out tracking of their own using their own cameras but that might require a prohibitively large amount of information sent over Bluetooth (BT 5.0?) to the CPU for the Machine Vision algorithm.
u/kiwiandapple · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme

Ow my! This is going to be awesome. Let me first answer your questions.

If something may sound "Chinese" to you, don't worry I will provide a lot of videos that probably explain what I type here (tomorrow).


> The one I'm replacing is a Dell Dimension 8200 that's about 15 years old.
>> I've tried out hundreds of applications and have more than a dozen that I consider important enough that I'll have to figure out a way to transfer them and their data over to the new machine.

Okay, you're very likely still using IDE hard drives. These are old and we've by now replace those with much smaller SATA hard drives. SATA cables are much smaller and easier to manage and the SATA bus is also faster.
I can be sure that your oldie is taking a couple minutes to start up Windows, right?

Anyway, luckily you can buy devices these days that make transferring files over to a new PC or laptop very easy.
Sabrent USB 2.0 TO SATA/IDE. You plug the HDD with the data on into this device, then connect the USB cable to the system where you want to transfer the files too and tada! Depending on the size, it may take some time to write it all, but you can just let it sit and do it's thing no problem.

> Do you think I should wait for after Christmas sales or buy now?

Hard to tell, from what I've seen the last 2 years that I've been around. I never really noticed huge sales during any of the "sales" times. Of course there are exceptions and it's possible to find some very solid deals to save $50-200 on a $1000+ system. But I personally am not that convinced that it's "worth the wait". It's really hit or miss to find a product that you need on these sales.

The best thing to wait for is most often big shows or conventions. Such as CES (5th till 8th of January 2017), Computex (May 30th till 3rd of June 2017) and other smaller ones.
Because big companies like Intel, AMD, Nvidia, Asus, Corsair, EVGA, Samsung, etc. are often showing off new products or prototypes that come to the market right away or very quickly after those shows are done.

So with CES in less than a month, new products are very likely going to hit the market in about a month time. If you can wait for this, then it's certainly something to consider. However, I have no idea what comes out of it, most of these products are under NDA so we can mostly speculate and that's it.
Nvidia is going to very likely release their new flag ship gaming video card, the GTX1080Ti. But this is probably not worth buying for your use. It's going to be very expensive and almost half of your budget, which is just not worth it.
AMD is hopefully going to tell us more about their new CPUs codename Zen. They've given us some performance comparisons and a bit more specifications of their new 8 core CPUs, last Tuesday. But most of that was just confirming the most likely rumours that were floating around. No release date or prices yet, aside from "Q1'2017". Soo.. I hope that they'll tell us more on CES!

> California, USA

MicroCenter access? This one is in Tustin / Orange County. If it's within ~30/60 minutes drive it's certainly worth it to go there to save a good amount of money, especially the CPU and motherboards.

> I'll worry about the monitor, keyboard, and mouse later.

What kind of budget do you have in mind for this? We can help with suggestions here as well!

> If you could recommend a good all in one printer that would be nice too.

This is certainly not something we've got asked here often. But I have some experience with Printers. I am no expert tho!

In terms of my overal experience; Canon printers work just about fine enough, they're cheap and do their job.. most of the time. They do eat inkt like candy tho, but this is something most printers do.
HP is a brand I will avoid for Printers forever, bought a fairly expensive one that just would give me more problems than actually printing. The reviews on it where good enough to give it a shot, but I guess I got unlucky, support was terrible as well. It was all our fault! It was loud, sometimes "ate" the paper for no freaking reason and don't let me start about the inkt.
Replaced that one with a cheap Canon that's been working just about fine for more than a year.
However, the one brand that I trust and love, has been Brother. They're certainly capable of just doing it right! I've had a Brother printer at my previous job and it wasn't too cheap, but certainly worth the money. I am sure that that beast is still kicking and printing, faxing around like it's nobodies business!
So that's why I can recommend a Brother printer without much doubt: Brother MFC-L2700DW. It can also fax! As well as scan, copy & print even from your WiFi. You can connect the printer via WiFi to your router, which allows you to print with anything that the router can connect to, so you can print from PCs, laptops, tablets and even smartphones without needing to plug in any cable! Aside from the power cable of course.

> I want a RAID for backup

I am just going to say that RAID is redundancy, not backup! It's in the name: "Redundant Array of Inexpensive Disks".
While I understand that you call it backup, if your PC/PSU dies for some very odd reason, it could potentially kill both the HDDs that are in RAID at the same time and then you still lose all the files.
If you want to backup files, you should invest in a NAS (Network Arranged Storage) or a Cloud Storage. I personally don't feel comfortable putting sensitive data in a Cloud data center. But if it's nothing major, then feel free to use it. This means that when your house sets on fire and burns your PC & NAS, you'll still have files in the Cloud that you can access with any device.
But when you backup files to a NAS & cloud. It's very hard to lose data. RAIDs are good, but I don't recommend this often. Because once you start adding more than 2 HDDs, it's not going to be very valuable to RAID1 your HDDs (mirror). Thus then you should better look at RAID5/6 which is extremely straining on the motherboard it's storage chip and thus it's recommended to buy a RAID card. But those get expensive quickly, which is why I recommend a NAS!

I recommend to backup to a NAS (you can and most do use RAID here!) or a Cloud. It's the safest way to keep your digital valuable information alive.

> I have found that video on the motherboard is a nice feature to have when the graphics card decides to stop working the night before a deadline.

This is a shame, because for your use case. I would recommend a CPU that does not have on-board graphics. The whole platform does not have this.
But you can consider to buy a cheap $35 card and keep it out of the system in a box somewhere. In worst case scenario, you can use that when a video card suddenly dies.. However, video cards most often don't die suddenly, they'll start to show signs of "death" in terms of bad performance, overheating or just the screen getting artifacts.

> Ventilation matters more than color and I don't need any LED's or color coordinating.

Very true that ventilation is important, but even more importantly are dust filters and that you blow out any dust that does manages to get through with some compressed air every 3-6 months. This will keep a PC alive for much longer compared to.. this scary stuff.
Luckily most modern cases of today have good filters that prevent this from happening!


Stop talking already and give me a suggestion!

Sorry, I'll work on this tomorrow. I have to get some more sleep first.

u/TacticalBastard · 5 pointsr/EDC

I'm 18, I'm a student and a IT guy (pretty good one too). I like fixing stuff

What I put in my pockets

Verizon LG G3 An oldie but goodie, been weilding this phone for a little over 2 years. Currently is running Cyanogenmod 13. Also has a 3rd party Anker battery inside which are a bit nicer than the one the phone comes with

Buxton Tri-Fold wallet Very sturdy and nice feeling wallet. My grandparents got it for me half as a joke as my last name is Buxton. Holds a second battery for my phone in addition to all the money I dont have.

Keyring with 144GB of Flash Storage on it. Keys for my house, and assorted flash drives. 2 8GB and 2 64GB. One 64GB is for my portable build of Ubuntu, the other is for Storing files on the go. One 8GB is for Hirens Boot CD, and the last one doesnt work and i'm too much of a lazy ass to take it off. Plus it looks cool.

Feild Notes I think everyone on EDC has one of these. Super handy. Above it is my handy Pilot G2, my personal favorite pen. Ive been using that one for about a year and it shows it with all the chew marks at the top.

Random Skullcandy Headphones.

Things I put in my bag

iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit Probably the best toolkit for computer repair, has literally every single screwdriver tip imaginable, plus some really handy tools for things like phone and tablet repair

2016 Razer Blade A wonderful gaming laptop, that can actually be used in the real world. Is very thin and light considering what's on the inside. Holds a 5ish hour battery life, so I'm not tethered to a wall all the time.

Steam Controller Wonderful for Gaming on the Go. It's a very good controller for PC Gaming, but only for certain people. First person shooters would totally suck on this controller (but then again they suck on every controller), but works very nicely for the games I play.

Logitech MX Master Probably the nicest mouse I have ever used in my life. Fits super well in my rather large hands, and the thumbrest button, speed adaptive scroll wheel, and horizontal scroll in addition to wonderful tracking and bluetooth support make it my favorite mouse of all time.

Cable Matters Thunderbolt Dock Very handy for a laptop that doesnt have Ethernet or VGA output, and an Extra USB port never hurt anyone either.

USB 3 & Micro USB OTG, SD Card and Micro SD card Adapter. Can plug into either standard USB or Micro USB, works as an adapter for a Micro SD or an SD Card. Also useful for a computer that doesnt have an SD card slot.

Microfiber cloth. The Razer Blade is a fingerprint magnet, so this comes in handy quite often.

u/JCB2K · 9 pointsr/PS4

Him hauling a tv around might be tedious, but would probably be easiest. Otherwise this was what I found in a review on a converter on Amazon.

" dana·August 13, 2017
5.0 out of 5 starsVerified Purchase
Color: Black
The adapter needs to be powered to work so connect the included cable to the phone charger unit that is plugged in to an electrical socket ( like a iPhone charger or Android)
Got it for connecting PS4 to older computer monitor. Works very well! Helping everyone trying to do the same thing:
You will need:

  1. This HDMI to VGA adapter
  2. One male to male VGA cable
    3 old phone charger with USB cord.
    Connect HDMI port of the adapter to PS4. Connect VGA cable to adapter and then the monitor. Connect audio jack to adapter and then the monitor ( if it has built in speakers) or directly into the PS4 controller. The adapter needs to be powered to work so connect the included cable to the phone charger unit that is plugged in to an electrical socket ( like a iPhone charger or Android).
    Power up the PS4 in SAFE MODE ( very important). Then once powered, change resolution to 420! The PS4 will automatically restart and everything will work as normal. Enjoy!"

    Link to item. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZMV7RL2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

    Here's a link to a very useful reply by fellow redditor u/merespectator

    Good luck to you and your husband. Stay strong and may thoughts and prayers do wonders for both of you. Stay 💪

    Edit: wow, lots of replies really quick. There was only one when I started writing. Great work folks.
u/amoliski · 1 pointr/Vive

Cheap tripods are great for traveling, and I've given over a hundred demos with them, but they kinda get in the way, and the larger you make the footprint (to improve stability) -the more they encroach in your play space.

I use these tripods with these swivel adapter things for my on-the-road show. As long as they don't get bumped, you're good to go.

For home, I use This tension rod and this rod mount - you may need a longer rod- I run it from the top of my dresser to the ceiling and the top of my computer desk to the ceiling. The 87 inch one isn't long enough to go from floor to ceiling for me.

As far as other essentials, two of these help with plugging the lighthouses in. An HDMI Extender, Power extender, and a USB 3.0 Extender (those three work perfectly for me) will make your life 100x more easy, especially if your computer isn't directly next to your play space. The extra 10 feet makes a world of difference for reducing tangles, reducing the number of times you have to stop and untwist your cord, and making you not worry about yanking on your computer when you get to the far corner.

Lastly, this wireless keyboard thing will save you from running back and forth from your desktop.


As far as sweatyness, I got over the ickyness pretty quickly. My friends have mastered basic hygiene, and face sweat doesn't smell all gross or anything. After each demo, I run the foam under the sink to rinse it off, then dab it with a paper towel and set it on a box fan to dry. It's good to go as soon as the next person is done and I repeat the process. I ended up buying a set of new face foams from the HTC website after I lost my narrow face foam though :(

u/Chemosh013 · 3 pointsr/oculus

Here is another picture of the sensor itself:


Here is the gear that I used:

Light Stands (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HNZJLG4/) - These things are great. Very easy to setup, very small base (can be expanded if you want, but the sensors are light and they seem very stable).

Mini Ball Heads (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M07M9D4) - Make for easier adjustment and greater tilting.

USB Cables (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ - 10 ft, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7S2FRE/ - 6 ft) - Passive were fine for the two sensors at that length.

Very happy to get these off my desk and higher up. I need to get my third sensor setup as well because the angle that they are pointing makes it tough to detect at the back of my play space (it's about 6 x 9).

Overall very happy with the setup and all the advice I received from this board. This is a really great community.

u/gitterwibbit · 1 pointr/headphones

Hey guys, trying to get into the scene here and I feel like my phone isn't enough for my HD598. If someone could help me out that would be great.

I use an Honor 8 and HD598s. I'd like to get a bit more out of them, especially volume wise and I'm looking into the audioquest dragonfly or Audioengine D3. First off, which one would be better for sound quality and volume? I listen to a wide range of music so just generally which one would be better.

Second, would an HD598 do well with either one of those?

Third, can an Honor 8 power them sufficiently?

Fourth, I'd like to use this to connect them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01COOQIKU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520274495&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+3.1+otg&dpPl=1&dpID=31u9EgABWmL&ref=plSrch

Overall, would this combo be alright and would the Honor 8 be able to completely power the Dragonfly/D3 and would the dragonfly/D3 be a good pair with the HD598?

u/zellotron · 1 pointr/oculus

> The HDMI spec's only single mention of DVI is a way to tell them apart when the same cable/connector is being employed, and only the DVI protocol has 1440p because you can have any random resolution.

The HDMI spec outlines the required interoperability with DVI, which means it's still part of the HDMI spec. There are a couple of sections on this.

> Finding plenty of examples of going from DisplayPort to DVI/HDMI-connector isn't relevant, the tech isn't bi-directional in this scenario.

They are examples of adaptor manufacturers supporting the particular resolution in DVI, illustrating that it's seen as commonplace enough to implement.

As I mentioned, in general I'm mainly talking about your initial statement about HDMI which I think is still misleading even if you include the word 'spec'.

As far as adaptors are concerned, I'm not arguing that it's likely a supporting adaptor will be released - it probably depends on demand. I can find examples of active adaptors supporting 1440p at 60Hz for example, it's perhaps just a bit more expensive+difficult to implement higher refresh rates.

> There might be some larger equipment somewhere that can accept DVI-over-HDMI and output it to DisplayPort, but you wouldn't call this an "adaptor"

There are active adaptors that provide 1440p from HDMI to DisplayPort, albeit not at higher refresh rates yet that I can find as mentioned. They are called just that: active adaptors, because circuitry is required for the translation. Just like my linked WMR adaptor examples. Maybe you're thinking of only passive adaptors?

> What you're asking for is both where the source is a HDMI connector.

I'm not "asking for" anything. I do however say that an active adaptor is not particularly out of the realm of possibility.

I'm guessing that even if an active adaptor supported the required resolution & refresh rate, there'd be some kind of timing issue anyway. I honestly don't care about an adaptor for the Oculus Rift S at all, I'm just debating your referring to HDMI's support.

> Write some code that uses 2 graphics cards that receives on one and outputs on the other, though everything needs to be there that the Rift S wants.

I'm not sure what you mean here - are you talking about using two graphics cards to do the job of an active adaptor?

(Like this one? https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution/dp/B00JQORLCG )

With all due respect, while you may work for a company that deals with video interface implementation, I don't think that either of us are really qualified to comment on the implementation of active adaptors.

u/WeirdTurbo · 1 pointr/buildapc

I am a sucker for screen real estate and have been using a 40" 4k TV (Samsung UN40KU6300) mostly for programming work for about three years now. -- I love it, but there are some trade-offs to consider:

  • Resolution/PPI
    A 40" 4k TV has about 110ppi, about the same as a 20" HD (1920x1080) monitor. I would probably not go any bigger than 40" (or maybe 43") and I would not use any non-4k TVs. -- Look at this page if you want to play around with various display sizes and see the corresponding PPI.
  • Power on/Power off (might be specific to the TV model I use):
    • Unlike a monitor, when waking the computer from sleep or powering it on, the TV does not wake up by itself. I have to turn it on via the TV's remote. Inversely, when the PC is suspended/turned off, the TV will display "No Signal" for about 10 minutes and then turn off. (Or you can again turn it off manually).
    • Also, after powering on the TV it takes several button pushes on the TV remote for my model to get it to switch to chroma 4:4:4 subsampling again.
  • Connectivity:
    Your TV will not have a Display Port, but only HDMI. You want HDMI 2.0 for 4k @ 60Hz and chroma 4:4:4 subsampling. I think nowadays most graphics cards have a HDMI 2.0 capable HDMI port. In the past I have used this Display Port 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter with success. Also most TVs will only have one HDMI port that is capable of handling 4k @ 60Hz with chroma 4:4:4 subsampling. (Read your TV's manual). This might be an issue for you if you want to hook up multiple computers to the same display.
  • Ergonomics
    • The way I use my TV when working is basically like a monitor. I am NOT sitting further back from it (which IMHO would defeat the purpose of having that much screen real estate). It does fill a large part of my field of vision and looking from one side to the other requires you to move your head. The way I typically work is that my editor/command line occupies about 2/3rds of my screen's width, and a browser with email and some chatting software takes up the other 1/3rd, which IMHO mitigates this.
    • The width of the 40" TV and its PPI is almost exactly the same as this 38" Dell Ultra Wide monitor. My TV is just a little taller (and only cost half as much in 2016 as that monitor does in 2019).
    • You probably need to improvise some kind of stand for the TV. For me, the stand that the TV came with caused it to sit way too low on my desk. And most monitor stands won't accommodate the size/weight of the TV. -- I ended up building something myself out of plywood, a 2x4 and some clamps/screws, to clamp the whole thing to my desk so that it doesn't slide off.
    • Since you are sitting very close to the screen, the angle at which you look at, say, the center portion is quite different from the corners of the monitor. For the TV that I am using this means that I am noticing a slight shift in color and brightness when looking at the center of the screen vs. the corners. This might be specific to my TV model and it doesn't bother me. IMHO it is a complete non-issue for editing source code or word processing, but I would not want to do any photoshopping where color accuracy is required on this setup.

      In general, I would recommend checking out this article on rtings.com, rating TVs for monitor usage.


      A 40" 4k TV will give you about the same PPI as a 20" HD monitor, so no issues there. Make sure you are fine with HDMI 2.0 instead of Display Port inputs and use a TV that is capable of chroma 4:4:4 subsampling, particularly when editing text.

      However, there are certain trade-offs you have to be aware of when using a TV as a monitor. It works well for things like programming or text editing, but not so much in cases where color accuracy across the screen is required. Also in the days of 38" ultra wide monitors a 40" TV as monitor does not sound that crazy anymore.



      Disclaimer: Not affiliated with any of the sites/products linked to in this post besides having actually purchased/used them myself...
u/abcteryx · 1 pointr/oculus

So you have four corners on the recessed ceiling (higher up), and four corners on the lower ceiling. I would almost prefer to put the cameras in the corners of the lower ceiling, because it would give a more straight-on view of the player/controllers. Each camera has a narrower viewing cone at extreme close proximity. The further from the main playspace they are, the more that cone has a chance to "spread out" and cover the actual playspace. In this case, you would draw your playspace with at least (2 ft) or (0.6 m) distance from each of the four walls, so people don't bash their knuckles at the borders.

However, you might not want your cameras to be further than (12 ft) or (3.6 m) apart from each other (for best tracking quality). I don't have a big enough room to run into this limit, so you may be fine with further spaced out cameras. If the lower ceiling corners are further apart than (12 ft) or (3.6 m), then you may want to put them in the recessed ceiling anyways. You can always ignore the Oculus Rift setup's warnings about camera spacing, by the way. In fact, with larger playspaces, the Oculus setup wizard will always complain. Don't worry about it.

Also, you might want to consider using this USB card. It can handle the throughput of all four cameras in USB 3.0 mode, if desired. You can downgrade any camera to USB 2.0 by simply running a USB 2.0 cable to that camera instead of 3.0. A passive USB 2.0 cable is fine for short runs, but consider an active USB 2.0 cable (like the one that comes in the box of an extra Rift camera) for longer runs. You should put your Rift headset in one of the motherboard's USB 3.0 ports (USB 2.0 might actually be fine), and then put all four cameras (you might only need three cameras) in the USB extension card.

You can search this subreddit for discussions on whether you want/need to have the cameras/headset on 3.0 or 2.0. I prefer to run everything at USB 3.0, but it may not be necessary.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are less than 10 feet (say, those corners nearest to your computer tower), use these passive USB 3.0 cables. You're also going to want a passive USB 3.0 extension for your Rift headset.

For USB 3.0 cable runs that are more than 10 feet away, you should use an active USB 3.0 cable. This is necessary for cameras that are further away from your tower. Note that the cable I linked has an optional barrel port for a 12V power supply. You only need to power these cables if you're daisy-chaining two or more of them in a row (for runs longer than (33 ft) or (10 m)).

These CAT6 round cable clips should work well for cable routing, especially for the slightly thicker active USB 3.0 cables. These general-purpose adhesive cable clips work fine for runs of the thinner, passive USB cables, but you may have issues with the adhesive depending on your wall.

You'll want this HDMI extension cable for your Rift headset, to make use of the extra space. I've had a good experience with bunching the HDMI and USB Rift headset extensions together by using these lightweight Velcro ties. I have about a (10 ft) or (3 m) square playspace, so you may encounter different problems than me if your playspace is larger. I only have three cameras, and it works fine. Good luck in your setup, I'm sure whatever you do will work great!

u/QuantumInteger · 2 pointsr/PS4

I love.

The display was the biggest upgrade for me. The display brightness is higher, the high PPI and amazing viewing angles are great, and the whole macOS UI scales well with the resolution.

The larger trackpad is useful when paired with BetterTouchTool. I use the extra real estate space for more complicated gestures. Pressing top left or right to switch tabs for example. The trackpad doesn't click anymore; it's force-touch now with audio feedback but you'll get use to it. I prefer the new trackpad because I don't actually have to use much force to click anymore.

The keyboard is definitely different from the older model. The key travel isn't nearly as large but it is larger than the first generation butterfly keyboard. Eventually I got use to it and can switch between a regular keyboard and the new one just fine. Personally, I like the new one for a few reasons: the keys don't feel as mushy and the whole platform depress uniformly no matter where you press.

The weight, or lack thereof, is a huge bonus. I can definitely feel the difference on my back. The 2011 was way heavier by comparison.

The USB-C situation isn't a big inconvenient for me. I switched to using a USB-C to microUSB for remote play so that isn't an issue. For all other USB-A or HDMI/VGA uses, I got this.

Finally, battery life and software stability are great. I never had an issue with them. The last time I fully powered my Macbook off was 2 months ago. It's been on and off the charger with no restart since. I wake it each morning for work and put it to sleep by closing the lid each night. Leave it in my backpack overnight and use it again in the morning.

So, to reiterate. I love it. For me, the price was worth it.

u/SerpentDrago · 1 pointr/24hoursupport

Your best bet is a somewhat not outdated to hell video card that properly supports hdmi 2.0 .

Also 1920x1200 is a 16:10 ratio NOT 16:9 , your tv is best with a 16:9 ratio

with your current card the best you could output to that tv and it look correct would be 2560x1440 (1440p) 16:9 ratio

you could do this with an ACTIVE DVI > hdmi adapter that supports full updated hdmi spec , You would then use the DVI ports on your video card (as thats the ports that support the resolution you would need )

That being said , just buy a new video card. Don't try to hack a old card to get it to work with a modern TV with HDMI . just buy a new card , it doesn't have to be to fancy , almost anything around 60 / 100 bucks would be way better then what you have . grab a used one on craigslist or something , then you can just use HDMI directly .

Good luck man !

u/clipstep · 2 pointsr/AmateurRoomPorn

Sorry I missed you earlier, here's what I used to get the tower discretely away in the corner and set up the triple monitor setup:

  • 10' 3.5mm to RCA cable (your extension cord may need to vary depending on what you use for speakers)

  • 4x usb M/F extension cord 10' (These are for plugging in my keyboard, mouse, phone connection, and a spare for usb sticks without having to plug into the tower)

  • 3x hdmi cable 10' (for plugging in the monitors, be sure to check your connection options as your graphics card / cards may need a different connection)

  • Vivo Triple Monitor Mount ( This is the trickiest part. For me to mount 3 heavy 27" BenQ monitors, this was a relatively inexpensive option. The stand is well built, and looks and moves well, but the weight of the monitors is difficult to mount without any sagging. Also, 27" is the absolute max size this mount will work for, and even then my viewing angles are a bit lacking. I would recommend Locktek's EXCELLENT mounts for neutralizing this issue, but they are vastly more expensive. Weight wont be an issue though. For me, the issue was not a big deal so I didn't splurge on a pricier mount.

  • Cable management sleeve (so that you can tuck away all those cords neatly)

    After that, you can have all peripherals at your fingertips and tuck the tower away into a corner. If your space is carpeted (and even if its not), be sure to keep the tower slightly elevated off the ground to allow for good air circulation.

    Definitely not dogma but that's what I've been using, and it works well thus far. Be sure not to skimp on the length of your cords, when your hiding it it will need to snake around a bit under the desk.

    Hope that helps!

u/MendedX · 2 pointsr/techsupport

No Problem man! The reason why I was able to get into detail very well is because I currently have my Xbox 360 and PS3 hooked into my desktop setup via VGA (xbox 360) and DVI (using a DVI to HDMI adapter for the PS3)

I would recommend watching these two techquickies videos to get up-to-date with what the monitors standards are, and screen Resolutions

HDMI, DisplayPort, VGA, and DVI as Fast As Possible

Resolution - Not Just a Number as Fast As Possible

The EASIEST option is to get a new computer monitor that has HDMI with Speakers (kind of like this one, look for a screen that has all these ports on it) for that PS4 upgrade that you are looking for, otherwise you will be looking for HDMI to VGA adapters that may work but I have never used one before so I can't guarantee if it will work with the ps4.

Now with the easiest option out of the way, Gaming on a Computer screen with an Xbox 360 is kind of simple. Buy an Xbox 360 VGA cable off of amazon or at local game store. Make sure you get a RCA to 3.5 adapter for the audio, because the next part gets interesting. If you are using with your computer at the desk all you have to do is plug the 3.5 adapter into your PC's Line-In port which is the blue plug port, then after its plugged-in go to your pc and go to your pc sound icon in the lower right hand corner and left click it and click on the playback devices, then click on to the line in icon and click on the properties button and that will bring out the line-in properties window, click on the listen tab and the check mark the listen to this device box and you should have sound coming through your speakers while having it hooked into your pc. You will have to have you PC running to have this work. If that is too much get this adapter (A) and this Adapter(B) and plug the green wire plug from the speaker into Adapter B and and one end from Adapter B into the computer and the other end into Adapter A, if you go this route you will not need the very first RCA to 3.5 adapter that i gave you.

Now with the PS4 use this adapter (can't guarantee if it will work) and Plug the Green cord into the audio in, and I think you will have to power it via USB. and make sure you have a VGA cable to plug into the adapter and to the screen. Make sure you switch the screen source from DVI to VGA when gaming, then back for PC use

TL:DR Get a new monitor with an HDMI, DVI, and VGA port that has speakers built in or you will have to follow the steps that I provided up to get an VGA port to work with an xbox 360 and MAYBE a PS4.

Hopefully this helps, and all the buy links that i have provided are for Amazon UK, and I believe most tech store will have most of these items as well.

u/smithenheimer · 2 pointsr/oculus

I'm using these....



Then for the sake of asthetics, I wrapped them both in this to keep the wires together when routing.

10 foot for each, which has worked for me, but 15 might give a bit more flexibility depending on the location of your PC. But part of the benefit of the hanging cables is that as long as your cable can reach diagonally to the opposite corner of your space, (front to back, left to right, and top to bottom. Diagonally in 3 dimensions), then it should be able to reach anywhere in your space. The stock Rift cable can reach diagonally across my space, and my extension cables are just getting my cable to its "start" position in the corner.

Keep in mind these cables don't have a ton of strength, so I recommend getting a hefty command strip hook to statically fix your wire near the ceiling to take a lot of the weight, then the hook cables can split the weight from there as it droops towards your head naturally.

This turned into a bit of a novel but I hope my "lessons learned" are helpful haha

u/fyrilin · 5 pointsr/AskBattlestations

Biggest question I have is why two desktops?

I can't speak to the room layout since you need those doors. However, If your monitors have the ability and you use both gaming machines yourself, I personally would do the following:

  • Move both desktops to a location off the desk top. Say, on the far left side. We're going to be scooting you slightly to the right anyway so there's no problem. You can put one outside the desk leg and one inside if they fit that way. You could even stack them if you think the Corsair can take it. Either way, I suggest putting the laptop on top of them like you do now
  • Install Synergy+ or a related free software to use one keyboard/mouse for all three machines if you can install it on your work laptop. That lets you get rid of one keyboard/mouse and you can potentially keep your laptop plugged in to your system all the time depending on your monitors. However, the one on the far right looks like an Asus VE247h or similar and it has three inputs. You're only using HDMI and you can use an HDMI to DVI adapter to use another. Then you have input control at your fingertips.
  • Go triple-monitor. Put your 27" in the middle and the two 24"s on the sides. You have the space for it. This leaves your right hand side (writing side) for arm support or handwritten notes. Yes, I see that paper pad and tablet there.
  • Wire up whatever combination of the computers to monitors you can. For example, monitors 1 and 2 go to gaming computer 1 and laptop and monitor 3 is always on desktop 2. That or some combination thereof, depending on your laptop's capability (psst: you can use a USB to HDMI video card to extend if you need or want it. I use 2 of them for my work laptop for 4 total screens. There are USB to other output adapters too)
  • Ideally, get arms for your monitors. That'll get them off your desk, give you room for your mouse/keyboard/speakers, and enable you to hide cables easier. I have these and they work pretty well if you don't move your monitors much.
  • Now cables and peripherals. Use either double sided tape or screws to mount your power strips under your desk at the back. Same with the Arris. You don't need those on your table. Sinice you're an Ikea guy, grab some cable baskets and put them under there too. That lets you run your extra cables out of sight.
u/Klownicle · 3 pointsr/oculus

I purchased;

(various dk2 users recommended passive (copper to copper) couplers for use with HDMI connectors, this is what I found on Amazon)

(this was recommended for users that don't have two hdmi outputs and use a TV for a monitor, etc. The 970gtx typically has a DisplayPort out. This adapter I believe can be used for either the rift or your external tv etc. My importance is for 4k Video with Audio. This is the go to cable. The 4k capability here is very important with the Rift. This cable is verified to work.)

(these or AmazonBasics seem to be the goto USB 3.0 extension cables, DK2/CV1 owners recommend AmazonBasics, but they are all sold out. These are the next best bet. I plan on using this to go through my wall to my Powered USB 3.0 Hubs).

(I bought this as its a reliable brand, 4 port usb POWERED hub, you are going to get better results with USB 3.0 when its powered and extended due to obvious cable length limitations.)

(As the DisplayPort to HDMI was by Club3D, this cable is highly rated and reliably 4k Capable, I figured it was a no brainer).

Hope that helps, I feel confident, through my research I should be able to accomplish what I want. I know USB limits you to 15ft, but in my experience when you use powered USB hubs, you can get beyond that. And worst case scenario, you can convert the USB to Cat5 and go much further distances.

I figured, if something doesn't work, I always have use for adapters and hubs. Again my goal was just to get through my wall and have the PC in another room (less than 20foot overall, but I heard the Rift cables are 9ft?) So the Rift setup would end up being 9ft or so in my living room I think.

u/Freeznips · 2 pointsr/oculus

These are the exact cables I used to extend both my rifts. Both are lossless quality; no noise, snow, nothing.

USB Extension

HDM Extension

Also in case you are interested, these are the cables I used to extend my sensor cables. Entire system works flawlessly. Some people have had to plug one or two of the sensors into a USB2.0 slot instead of 3.0 to get perfect tracked. I just split the 3.0's up between several different card. A good rule of thumb is two inputs per card. So i used the MOBO slots, the top panel slots, and my PCI-E USB slots to ensure each component was receiving sufficient power.

Hope this helps. Best of luck and enjoy (:

u/Darkness12 · 1 pointr/AMDHelp

Hey there! I do IT/SOHO Support on the side, so I feel like I could help you, but I am gonna need a few more details. I will provide brief explanations for the questions in parentheses which may solve your issue outright. Here we go!

  • What graphics card do you have? (I assume RX 480 based on the thread in which you posted this)

  • What video inputs does your monitor use? (If you are converting to VGA, you may only have analog inputs available, which leads to...)

  • Do you know which DVI adapter/cable to use? (DVI-I is both analog and digital, DVI-D is digital, DVI-A is analog. Then there are dual-level DVI inputs, but if you are using an adapter it is mostly irrelevant. Look up the conversion differences depending on what you are trying to do. VGA (analog) monitors are less and less likely to work with newer graphics cards).

  • Are you able to use an HDMI cable to test this computer on a television? (This can verify that the drivers, BIOS, config, etc. are at least working through another port on the card. If you only see BIOS then you need to change the default graphics device (typically to PCIE1). If you don't see shit then remove and replace the GPU, confirm the 6 or 8 pin power connection (depending on GPU model), and call the OEM for support if still out of luck )

    EDIT: So just for perspective with my XFX RX480 8GB reference model: I have two monitors. One is connected through an Active Display Port --> DVI-D adapter --> DVI-D Monitor ( this adapter ) and the other monitor uses an HDMI (male) to DVI-D Male cable. If you are trying to use VGA, you would be best off spending money on a new monitor/tv. The tech to convert analog/digital signals is overpriced and full of issues.
u/phoenixdigita1 · 1 pointr/oculus

I'd avoid moving the sensor around between standing and sitting. If you move sensors you ideally should redo the setup. That would get pretty annoying fast. Just find a placement that handles both.

Yes the 3rd sensor comes with a USB 2.0 extension and I would recommend using it. When on USB 3.0 the sensor sends raw images back to your PC on the USB bus using ~76MB/s per sensor. When on USB 2.0 the sensor sends back jpeg compressed images to the PC using ~16MB/s which is substantially less and really doesn't affect tracking performance too much.

If you really want to prepare for everything when your Rift arrives. I recommend you get this card from Amazon.
Amazon shipped this form USA to Australia really cheaply. Don't try to get a "similar" card from somewhere locally. This one with this chipset is supported by Oculus and works. 9 times out of 10 people with tracking issues battle their system for weeks and when they get this card the problems are fixed.

I know you have enough ports at present but it is more than just available ports on your PC. Have a read of the blog posts Oculus did on this topic.




Finally if you are getting that card from Amazon save on shipping and get the extension cables for the headset itself (and the sensors for the back room).

Don't try to push the headset extension more than 6 feet as you wont need it and can possibly run into issues. Again it is important you get cables that are known to work. People have tried a huge range of different cables and lengths and not everything works. Learn from their experience.

TLDR: you want these if you want to be 100% ready for when it arrives for any issues that might arise. The Rift could work out of the box without any of this. But if you have issues these things will likely fix them and also give you enough cabling length to get everything setup exactly how you want. Another tip. If you have issues don't fight them just get these things to fix it and save your sanity.


USB Card - https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Superspeed-Ports-PCI-Expansion/dp/B00B6ZCNGM


6ft USB - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO

6ft HDMI - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/

Sensors Extensions

6ft or 10ft - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/

u/xikronusix · 1 pointr/Amd

New update been testing out for a while with new drivers plus the club 3d adapter, my TV will still randomly drop signal for a second every once in a blue moon but it doesn't hard drop like before where it would rearrange the desktop as if a new device was plugged in. Figured I'd should let people know in case they go looking for answers.

So I finally bit the bullet and picked up one of these Club 3D DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 adapters


because my 4k TV flickering was driving me insane. Been testing for about a day on and a few hours on versions and so far no flickering or disconnects. Things to note is my display looks a touch darker on its natural settings, it's running at 60HZ vs 59HZ naturally so on first boot that's what I got thankfully. No more tooling around trying to force 60HZ to match my other 2 monitors.

Other thing to note, it comes up as RGB 4:4:4 in Radeon Additional settings now, it used to come up as 4:2:2, I've done quick tests and it looks to actually show 4:4:4 Chroma.

From my understanding it has to do with how the display talks to the GPU, either HDCP disconnects for some random reason which is one of the reasons I think the adapter works.


It's an EDID thing, where the monitor is saying one thing and the Windows/GPU is saying another. Apparently something like this also works.

EDID Override adapter (HAVEN'T TESTED THIS MYSELF) Video trying to prove their theory

Honestly would have loved to just had an update that fixed this but it got to the point where I just said I'm done with it, going to fix it myself. HDMI on any version of Windows has always been pretty broken. Scaling is always off, refresh rate is random, chroma subsampling is always off so the picture looks just janky. Might as well use DisplayPort instead.

Curious to see if anyone has experienced the issue with DP or is it just HDMI, or has anyone seen any issues after using an adapter between display and GPU?

Cheers guys.

Edit should have mentioned I'm using an RX 480

u/Barksie · 2 pointsr/oculus

There are different accessories I have bought and has made my experience better.

Cable management: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073P7GJNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Audio upgrade:

- Cheap (For just exploring around and watching videos) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B486K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

- Expensive (Mainly for playing games and having a mic instead of the built in mic since it's buggy on the headset) - https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Flight-Detachable-Comfortable/dp/B077ZGRY9V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3D960PSK6KV35&keywords=hyperx+cloud+flight&qid=1564661727&s=electronics&sprefix=hyperx+cloud+%2Celectronics%2C151&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRkdWSElOUU5JREhTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDYwNzUxMVZSTjVPU1pFS0Y1USZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTEwOTk2MVgyMkUwMjdWRlo1MyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=


Controller grips:

These arrive today so I can't say if they are good or bad yet but I've only heard good - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VCF9P73/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've had these for awhile and they work great (if you have larger hands, these are perfect) - https://www.mamutvr.com/collections/upcoming/products/mamut-touch-grip


Headset power:

I've heard people have had tracking issues due to insufficient power from their usb ports, my RTX 2080 has a dedicated USB-Type C that I use to power my headset and haven't had any tracking issues - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYXVE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Rechargeable batteries for the controllers:

I've heard other people recommend different batteries but these have worked well for me - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IM3P8GS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/gseyffert · 1 pointr/techsupport

Your model, as listed on newegg.com, actually has the Intel HD Graphics 5000 iGPU.

Moving on, I'm operating under the assumption that one of your monitors is plugged into the VGA port, and the other two are plugged into the DVI-D ports of your docking station - is that correct?

I suspect the issue may stem from the fact that your iGPU only supports a maximum resolution of 1920x1200 over the DVI interface, though it seems odd that this would be the case, given that there are two discreet ports; however, I would not be surprised if it happened to be the case that your laptop sees the docking station as one unified port, and thus will only output to one of your monitors, since (1920 1080) 2 >> 1920 * 1200.

Now, I don't mean to criticize, but I am a little concerned that you spent $180 + tax on a docking station for the stated purpose of running two monitors off of it when your computer also has an HDMI port. I understand that your monitors are strictly VGA and DVI input, but that doesn't mean they explicitly have to run off of a DVI port. You can also buy a single USB 3.0 to DVI adapter to round everything out.

If you have some reason to keep the docking station (you want the extra USB 3.0 ports, for instance), it's obviously more than OK to keep it. However, if the only reason you bought it was for the DVI ports, return it. Get an HDMI to DVI adapter (I've used cheap ones before, worked fine), and then a USB 2.0/3.0 to DVI adapter. I think that should solve your issue, and hopefully save you a few bucks too. If you want to keep the docking station, just buy the HDMI to DVI cable and you should be good to go.

EDIT: a link

u/MrOtsKrad · 1 pointr/buildapc

Its not exactly what your looking for. But an option Ive used to hook up my 3rd monitor (read: 42in LG 1080p) was a USB3.0 to HDMI converter.

Streams perfectly, checked on color and blacks. Played Bioshock Infintity on it. Was a great solution incase you find a great deal on a card for 2/3 slots and need an extra :)

Edit: $50 on Amazon Prime http://amzn.com/B00BPEV1XK

u/n_nick · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Here is my build list formatted for reddit

Group | Name | Price | Quantity | Total | Link
--- | --- | --- | --- | --- | ---
Pc | (Everything Inside the case) | | | |
$1,601.62 | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $347.00 | 1 | $347.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012M8LXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cooler Master Hyper D92 54.8 CFM Rifle Bearing CPU Cooler | $44.80 | 1 | $44.80 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NXLYE4G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Gigabyte GA-Z170X-UD5 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $171.49 | 1 | $171.49 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012N6EW6G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Corsair Vengeance LPX 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | $129.99 | 1 | $129.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OTJZTZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.99 | 1 | $97.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OAJ412U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Hitachi HD​S723020BLA​642 | $58.00 | 3 | $174.00 | EBay
| EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card | $459.99 | 1 | $459.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I60OGUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| EVGA 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $90.39 | 1 | $90.39 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KYK1CC6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| XFX AMD Radeon HD 5450 1GB | $29.99 | 2 | $59.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005IUW7YE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| PWM Female to 4 x PWM Male Computer Case Fan Splitter | $6.50 | 2 | $13.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQRFY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA Hard Drive to Desktop 3.5" | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN550AC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 80MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 2 | $0.00 |
| 92MM 5000RPM Fan | $0.00 | 4 | $0.00 |
Monitors | | | | |
$744.66 | Seiki Pro SM28UTR 28-Inch 4K UHD 3840x2160 | $195.69 | 1 | $195.69 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013XWQF28/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AOC e2460Sd 24-Inch Widescreen LED Monitor | $142.99 | 3 | $428.97 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C99MUHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Dell 17" 5:4 | $30.00 | 4 | $120.00 | EBay
Cables | | | | |
$137.77 | Cable Matters Gold Plated DisplayPort to DisplayPort Cable 10 Feet | $11.99 | 1 | $11.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005H3Q5E0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Cable Matters Active DisplayPort to DVI Male to Female Adapter | $19.99 | 2 | $39.98 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| DVI Male to Female 90 Degree Adapter Connector | $4.43 | 3 | $13.29 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X0ZJZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black | $10.47 | 3 | $31.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2760&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft Super VGA M/M | $5.69 | 4 | $22.76 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&cs_id=1020101&p_id=3622&seq=1&format=2
| 15ft USB 2.0 A Male to A Female Extension | $1.87 | 5 | $9.35 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=103&cp_id=10303&cs_id=1030304&p_id=5435&seq=1&format=2
| 25ft hdmi cable | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVMHI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Desk Accesseries | | | | |
$263.49 | Perixx PX-5200 Cherry MX Blue | $72.91 | 1 | $72.91 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NY45NCY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Logitech C310 Webcam | $31.93 | 1 | $31.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LVZO8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lapel Mics | $6.50 | 1 | $6.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJOIHE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| FingerPrint Reader | $12.58 | 1 | $12.58 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHHP7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Mouse Pad | $8.99 | 1 | $8.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0IF50/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Headset Func HS260 | $79.99 | 1 | $79.99 | https://www.amazon.com/FUnc-FUNC-HS-260-1ST-fUnc-HS-260/dp/B00HH3H83U
| Altec ACS 54 - Speaker | $0.00 | 1 | $0.00 |
| Logitech G700S | $50.59 | 1 | $50.59 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BFOEY3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Audio Accesseries | | | | |
$58.33 | BEHRINGER MICROAMP HA400 | $24.99 | 1 | $24.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KIPT30/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack 6.35mm Male to 3.5mm Female Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XAQD4YA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3.5mm Male to 2 x 3.5mm Female Splitter Cable | $3.99 | 1 | $3.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081ZBNI4/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Coupler 3.5 mm Female - 3.5 mm Female Stereo or Mono | $3.93 | 1 | $3.93 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068O4N/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 feet Slim 3.5mm Stereo Audio Cable - M/M | $2.71 | 2 | $5.42 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G3UK5C/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3-Feet 3.5mm Stereo Male to Female Extension Cable, 5-Pack | $12.01 | 1 | $12.01 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SWOJLSS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Lighting | | | | |
$86.88 | Studio Designs Swing Arm Lamp Black | $24.75 | 2 | $49.50 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I2S7MHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Lutron TT-300NLH-BL Credenza Lamp Dimmer Black | $14.83 | 1 | $14.83 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00024BJZE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Triple Outlet Swivel Adapter, White | $3.27 | 1 | $3.27 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HJBENG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Daylight LED Light Bulb 15W | $9.64 | 2 | $19.28 | https://www.walmart.com/ip/Great-Value-GVRLA1850ND-Great-Value-LED-15W-A19-Light-Bulb/38596922
Cable Managment | | | | |
$18.81 | 100 Velcro Ties | $5.00 | 2 | $10.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 100 Releasable cable ties | $2.47 | 3 | $7.41 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052012&p_id=5795&seq=1&format=2
| Cable Clip nais | $0.70 | 2 | $1.40 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=105&cp_id=10520&cs_id=1052006&p_id=5834&seq=1&format=2
Power | | | | |
$53.13 | Monster MP AV 750 Audio Video PowerCenter | $18.99 | 1 | $18.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004ETIKH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| AmazonBasics 6-Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip 2-Pack | $12.99 | 1 | $12.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1BWMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 3 Outlet Single-Tap Wall Tap | $4.00 | 2 | $8.00 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007XQORTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 15ft 16AWG Power Cord Cable | $5.20 | 1 | $5.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022801&p_id=5287&seq=1&format=2
| 10ft 18AWG Right Angle Power Cord Cabl | $2.65 | 3 | $7.95 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022809&p_id=7677&seq=1&format=2
Network | | | | |
$33.98 | TP-LINK 8-Port Gigabit Desktop Switch | $22.99 | 1 | $22.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EVGIYG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| 5-Pack, Cat6 Ethernet Patch Cable in Blue 3 Feet | $10.99 | 1 | $10.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C2B81K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Monitor Mount | | | | |
$215.27 | Arm wall mount | $17.54 | 3 | $52.62 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=12232&seq=1&format=2
| Top wall mount bracket | $4.80 | 4 | $19.20 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=3005&seq=1&format=2
| Center Monitor Mount | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082821&p_id=4564&seq=1&format=2
| 2x8 | $7.47 | 3 | $22.41 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Top-Choice-Common-2-in-x-8-in-x-10-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-7-25-in-x-10-ft-Lumber/4082916
| 2x4 | 2.55 | 1 | $2.55 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-2-in-x-4-in-x-8-ft-Actual-1-5-in-x-3-5-in-x-8-ft-Stud/1000074211
| 3" clamp | $5.98 | 6 | $35.88 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-QUICK-GRIP-3-in-Clamp/50214643
| 4" Hinge | $2.81 | 2 | $5.62 | https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gatehouse-4-in-H-Oil-Rubbed-Bronze-Interior-Exterior-Mortise-Door-Hinge/4772785
| Wood Screws | $9.00 | 1 | $9.00 | Lowes
| Assorted brackets/hardware | $25.00 | 1 | $25.00 | Lowes
| Case Rack Mount | $35.00 | 1 | $35.00 | EBay
Misc | | | | |
$35.97 | Steam Link | $19.99 | 1 | $19.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XBGWAQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
| Bluetooth Adapter | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | GRANDCOW Bluetooth 4.0 USB Adapter Dongle for Windows 10/ 8.1 / 8/ 7 / Vista / XP
| 19 Key Numeric Keypad | $7.99 | 1 | $7.99 | https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DJSAAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/reditor_1234 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I did a research about the Explorer (since I noticed that people love their Explorers and they said good things about it) so I got interested in it as well and I think I can reccommend you to **not use the flip up display thing since it is sensitive and it can break easily** (instead use the Flashlight feature that allows you to see the real world using its cameras without taking off the HMD)


As for the BT donle I heard good things about this **Plugable BT dongle** :


Also some GPUs require the right display port (in order to get 90 fps at max and not only 60 fps) so I am also going to buy the **Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter**



And I found that the best rechargeable AA batteries are these of Eneloop (I am also going to buy the standard charger they have with it) :



These are the stuff I decided to buy for my yet to be purchased Explorer after doing my research.

u/livegorilla · 2 pointsr/ultrawidemasterrace

Okay, got it. DisplayPort 1.2 and HDMi 2.0 both support 3440x1440 at 100 Hz, so you have some options.

Something like this looks like it would work pretty well. It looks like only the mini Displayport version is DP 1.2 though.

Otherwise you could go for an HDMi 2.0 switch like this and then pair it with some adapters like this.

u/nwgat · 9 pointsr/Amd

no DP is the best, why?

  • DP 1.3 HBR3 mode has 80% more bandwidth than HDMI 2.0, DVI is severity outclassed here
  • DP 1.4 supports HDR, much better deep blacks, way better color, this is what blur-ray 4k has support for and newer tvs too, hdmi 2.0b also supports this
  • DP supports Daisy Chaining of displays or you can use a MST Hub 1 Output = 3 Displays
  • DP adapters so you can do DP > HDMI 2.0, DP > DVI, DP > VGA

    thats why there are a boatload of adapters, one of the XFX ref backplate cards include a DP>DVI adapter i think

    if everyone wanted DVI, we would have been stuck at 1600p60 for a 100 years..

    those adapters i told you about?, dont cost an arm or a leg, its like 18 bucks for a active one dp to dvi or 28 for hdmi 2.0

    DisplayPort to DVI or HDMI

    DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0
u/AttemptedWit · 5 pointsr/nexus5x
  1. Photos is your all in one place. It is meant to simplify things like storage management. If you upload your photos, then you get all your photos, not just the ones on the device.
    If you want a device only gallery, there are a few in the Play Store that work pretty well. Piktures is a pretty polished alternative.
  2. There is an app called Swipebubble that will mimic the old swipe to get into google now. However, if you want to keep the Google Now launcher, Google Now will always be on the left. I'd recommend picking up Nova Launcher, it is $0.99 right now and is well worth it. I'm not a fan of the hold to open google now either.
  3. 2 pack Micro USB to Usb C adapters You get one for your wallet and one to stash somewhere else. These have Benson Leung's approval. According to Ampere, I am able to get a max of 1.4a using these. Not the greatest, but will be a lifesaver I'm sure.

    I just got mine 5x today and have been going through all the setup process. I did not know how slow my moto x 2013 had become until I started setting up the 5x.
u/Ditchmag · 6 pointsr/WindowsMR

Vrcover for sure
And don't get the PK Cell, get these

USB Rechargeable Batteries 1.5V/1500mAh Lithium Ion AA Battery with 4-in-1 Micro USB Charging Cable 1.5h Quick-Charge Built-in Integrated Safety Circuit Protection Double A Batteries(4 Pack)) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F27PK2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JBc7CbNV06EYV

Or these

CT ENERGY USB Rechargeable AA Batteries 1.5V/1600mAh Lithium ion Battery with 1.5 Hours Quick Charging Micro-USB Port Li-ion Double A Batteries (4packs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q3DBYV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sCc7Cb0R2DXZZ

I have both and they are great batteries.

Extensions that work:

AmazonBasics High-Speed Male to Female HDMI Extension Cable - 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D5H90L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lDc7CbBE9E1R5


Cable Matters 200008-BLACK-6 USB to USB Extension Cable in Black 6 Feet Available 3FT 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ODc7CbA4Q82ZZ


And I like to use the usb-c port on my laptop. It's closer to the HDMI and seems like a stronger port when using the usb extension.

AmazonBasics USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Gen1 Female Adapter Cable - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYXVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8Dc7CbJA5TMTV

u/NomaD5 · 1 pointr/oculus

I'm still waiting for my Rift actually, it arrives in another week, so not sure yet. But if you'd like I can report back when I get everything setup.

10m Active USB.3.0 Extensions (for front sensors)

3m USB 3.0 Extension (for HMD)

3m HDMI Extension (for HMD)

HDMI to DP Adapter (For GPU)

USB 3.0 PCI-E Card (to power the 10m active extensions)

I've read good things about all of these, with a lot of success stories. Hopefully all goes well on my end.

u/fwipsy · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

take a look here. #2 (1x USB-C + 1x HDMI) and #3 (2x USB-C + 1x HDMI) look promising. Haven't looked at the others. I'm not sure that 2x USB-C ports means 2x 4k monitors, though. It looks like the Intel HD 620 integrated graphics don't support HDMI 2.0 without a separate chip. You may just be able to get a USB Type-C to Displayport adapter, IDK. I'm out of my depth here, I recommend making a post over at the Notebookreview forums where the real nerds hang out.

Edit: Actually, this is a thing. So I'm guessing you'll be OK as long as you have two USB Type-C ports, plus a separate port for power. You may even be able to daisy-chain two monitors somehow.

Continued research says that Displayport 1.3 and newer is enough bandwidth for 2x 4k 60hz. Holy cow. I think maybe the monitors have to explicitly support daisy chaining, or else you need a DP hub, but as long as you get something with USB C (with Thunderbolt for good measure, most of the nice machines have it anyway) you should be OK.

u/Docteh · 0 pointsr/pcmasterrace

In interest of asking good questions, you should mention what video card you have. Actually most modern video cards will be happy doing HDMI over the DVI port.

Get a cable like this

Or get an active display port adapter. Save the real HDMI port for the vive. Here is a link to a full size display port adapter, I bought one for my 21:9 monitor. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00EDT0072

Doesn't the link box have a display port connection? https://www.vive.com/eu/support/category_howto/when-to-use-mini-displayport.html

u/imokaywithit · 1 pointr/buildapc

I did some more reading and found out I need an active DisplayPort adapter because my GPU needs two special clocks for the other two ports. DVI and HDMI both use this clock, but DisplayPort doesn't, so to have a third monitor I need an adapter that will take that DisplayPort signal, actively convert it into what I need (HDMI), and then output that signal. I plan to be getting this one, hopefully that should do the trick.

Thank you for your assistance, it's greatly appreciated.

u/AnthonyANI · 1 pointr/battlestations

The issues I've run into in the past were related to monitors not handling the DisplayPort protocol properly (BenQ XL2720Z, XL2730Z firmware bugs) causing black screens, etc. With these Dell S2716DG monitors using DisplayPort, everything works amazingly and responds super quickly. I've been able to pull off at least four concurrent displays, one being the Vizio TV on DVI-I to HDMI, with every GPU I've tried it with (GTX 980 and TITAN X).

With the HP 27xw, you'll have to rely on DisplayPort to HDMI adapters since no DP input. I'm not sure how well passive DP to HDMI adapters will work on the GTX 1070 (whether it will work with 2+ passive adapters or not). They should work fine for 1080p60, but I haven't been able to test such a setup. Active adapters have the potential to increase latency, and may fail due to the nature of being active. However, they can properly convert DP to HDMI, resolving issues that may arise with (multiple) passive adapters.

Passive DP to HDMI adapter

Active DP to HDMI adapter

Active DP to HDMI 2.0 adapter (supports [email protected])

Edit: The GTX 1070 should be more than capable of handling a four display setup, seeing how it surpasses the GTX TITAN X in benchmarks.

u/Niq22 · 1 pointr/oculus

When it comes to USB extensions and where to plug in the equipment (USB 2.0 vs 3.0, etc), I found the Help section on the Oculus website to be insufficient. They don't take into consideration if you have a PCI-E USB 3.0 controller (Which I had to purchase) in addition to the on board USB 3.0 ports.

I have 4 sensors, all of which are connected to USB extension cables. I found the Oculus setup wizard to be most useful. If you have green check marks for everything, then you're good! If you don't, try plugging stuff into different ports until you get all green check marks. At one point I had to even unplug some other USB devices, plug in my sensors (so they would turn green), then I could plug in my other USB devices. I now have all 4 sensors setup working flawlessly.

For extension cables, I had no issues. Three of my sensors have 10' extenders and I also have a USB extension cable on the headset as well as an HDMI extender. I spent a decent amount of time getting my "Rift Room" setup and I am so happy that I spent the time to set it up right. Makes for such a solid experience and I have a large play area that I can freely move around in.

For reference here is the HDMI/USB cables I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBBSZFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (HDMI Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Extender)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MT1EQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 2.0 Extender)
(Also, my 2 additional sensors came with 1 10' USB extension cable each...purchased from Newegg)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (USB 3.0 Controller)

u/redpsychedelic · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Alright so, here's the deal for you and posterity. Got the adapter. Perfect [email protected] (had to enable UHD mode on TV obviously) on macOS 10.12.2 (16C68), web drivers 367.15.10.25f02 on the GTX 970.
So we're clear, I'm using Club3D Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 UHD (CAC-1070) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54/] with KabelDirekt High Speed HDMI Cable with ARC Ethernet (6 ft) [https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI8A1NW]

On winblows, it still works perfectly [email protected] like before (aka when I wasn't using the adapter). I just had a long gaming session @ 4k60fps no sweat.

Audio on macOS also works fine with injected Toleda's audio DSDT (didn't change anything, it's the same I installed when I was running via HDMI out, hopefully via DP I don't get random sound cracking or complete muffling as experienced via HDMI).

u/itsamamaluigi · 2 pointsr/EmulationOnAndroid

The cable you linked to is just an adapter. You need a USB OTG cable. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_DguXBbG6KG58E

Your cable will allow you to plug USB devices into a computer with a mini-c port, but for anything to work with a phone, you have to get something that specifically says it has USB OTG.

As for drivers, nearly any phone should support it. However, some phones might not work with controllers. My phone doesn't work with gamepads over USB, even though it does work with keyboards, mice, and flash drives. Most phones should work with gamepads though.

EDIT: It's possible this is incorrect based on the other response that all USB-C cables support OTG. I would suggest testing other USB devices with this cable. If it works with a keyboard, mouse, or flash drive, but not a gamepad, you might be out of luck. I can't find if your phone supports OTG.

u/shakenbak3 · 2 pointsr/PickAnAndroidForMe

As a 6P owner, I'ma little biased but all that put aside, I came from a Note 3 so I had the same gripes as you: No expandable storage, no removable battery, etc...Here my solutions to those problems. For the most part the 6P battery will get me through a day of heavy use pretty easily (listening to spotify, watching videos, texting, emailing and whatnot). Just in case I always carry around a portable power bank. As for expandable storage, I would like to point out with Google's photo app, you receive unlimted storage for high quality photos, however, don't quote me on this, but at some point I believe past 1080P it starts to eat into a 10GB limit. I advise using a USB stick for external storage, it's small, portable, and overall very convenient. Best of luck making your decision! It's a tough one! If you have any questions about the 6P just let me know!

Edit: If you are strictly looking just to offload files to get more storage and not transfer them to a computer via usb, this Dongle gives you more storage and it costs less than the previous link. If you do want to move pictures and videos, you can always buy an adapter.

u/gzunk · 1 pointr/buildapc

Not quite a "simple" DP>DVI converter, since it has to be active like this one for single link DVI (up to 1920x1080), or this one for dual link DVI (up to 2560x1440) or this one for HDMI.

It has to be active, because passive converters rely on the GPU sending out DVI or HDMI signals from the DisplayPort (using DisplayPort++, that's what the ++ means), so it's not really DisplayPort.

Technically, some Radeon cards only have two clocks to drive external monitors, so you can only use two legacy (DVI, HDMI) monitors at the same time. If the monitors share the same resolution and refresh rate they might be able to share the same clock, depending on the board manufacturer.

DisplayPort is clockless, so you can attach as many of those as you can fit, or if you use an active adapter then the clock on the GPU isn't used and it's generated by the adapter, so again you can use as many as you can fit.

u/CrackaLackN_ · 1 pointr/techsupport

Wow, thanks so much for all your input. I really appreciate it. I wanted to have this thing set up by the weekend and decided to buy an adapter myself.

I hope it works just as well as the one you linked. I got it here: Cable Matters Gold-Plated DisplayPort to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDYLM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_XZmuxbBK3BNP5

u/devnull00 · 1 pointr/oculus

Which two did you buy and what is the resolution and hz of your monitor?

I would expect something like this to be a better one. If it supports eyefinity that is a good sign that it didn't skimp on something. But the main thing you want is an "active" one.

This is one I have and use for hooking my laptop to tvs. Never had an issue: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072

This is a newer company and you can see their adapter is smaller than the other two, but it makes the same claims of support. This one even specifically says hdmi 1.4 support. http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8

Other than those 3, I do not think any other adapter on amazon would be worth buying. The rest are junk that may work with a 1080p tv, but that is it.

u/kikenna · 1 pointr/virtualreality

Great! So, the Cable Matters USB3 10ft cable you linked seems to work for others.

But, the AmazonBasics HDMI 10ft cable sounds fishy in the reviews. A long with a bunch of other HDMI cables (10ft). One review said the 15ft cable worked great (amazonbasics).

Based on youtube, this one does not work at all.
Ultra Clarity Cables

Someone is also saying it all depends on your motherboard?

My computer has a USB 3.0 port with the [battery]+ symbol, so I'm going to take a leap of faith and purchase the cables matter 10ft usb3 cable and the 10ft amazonbasics hdmi cable.

Should arrive a day before my Odyssey+

u/hei-sen-berg · -1 pointsr/Surface

That's a good but expensive monitor.
Whichever monitor you end up buying, do get an active miniDP to HDMI adapter if you wish to make full use of [email protected] from your Surface.
I recommend this one:
Plugable Active Mini DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4k / UHD / [email protected])

u/STRMfrmXMN · 2 pointsr/techsupport

An HDMI to DVI adapter like this should work and it's what I would buy: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00NH11X64/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459211217&sr=1-2&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi

If it doesn't then you might need an active adapter like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Plated-DisplayPort-Adapter/dp/B00EDT01TO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1459211233&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi+active

You want the best connection possible which is always digital. DVI/Displayport/HDMI are all superior to VGA. Just avoid using VGA and you should be fine.

u/kalyway101 · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Nice. I originally ordered this but, somehow, the package was damaged in shipping and and sent back to Amazon. So, instead, I used this..

CHOETECH 3 Pack 1m/3.3ft USB Type C Cable Nylon Braided USB 3.0 A to USB C Cabl $11 right now

Along with this passive USB extender: Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable) in Black 10 Feet - $7.99 right now

This combo works great for me and I haven't noticed any major issues besides the Oculus Link Beta software not always seeing my Quest lol. Little over 13ft so not a ton of length but a decent amount. I just used a velcro strap on the back of my DAS to keep it from hanging. Idk if I'll get a longer cable in the future. I'm pretty okay with the length.

u/3Isewhere · 2 pointsr/Surface

There is such thing as mDP to HDMI 2? Do you happen to have an amazon link? I can't seem to find my way around it.

This looks to be the mDP to HDMI 2 adapter that I would need, right?

If you happen to see a cable that does it right @ 60hz, please share!

And as for your question, I would ideally want a better framerate -- am I misunderstanding sthng?

Thanks for your help.

EDIT: my understanding is that "HDMI 2.0" is nonsensical for -CABLES- -- is this correct? It's a reference to an adapter, and I would be using a standard HDMI cable from the HDMI2.0 adapter to my TV. Right?

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/mac

The following is an excerpt from Stack exchange. I cannot confirm if this works, but it might be worth looking into for you.

User - Tohster
Apple's specs show that the late-2014 (which is still being sold today, October 2015) Mac Mini can support up to two displays using its HDMI and thunderbolt ports.
I've confirmed this by trying to plug in 3 monitors directly into the ports on the Mac Mini (two via thunderbolt, 1 via HDMI), with the same results as the OP...one of the monitors is not driven.

The following 3-monitor setup worked for me:

  • Late 2014 Mac Mini with 8GB RAM (purchased Oct 2015)
  • 3 monitors, each with 1920x1200 resolution
  • Monitor 1: driven by Mac mini HDMI port (HDMI-to-HDMI cable)
  • Monitor 2: driven by Mac Mini thunderbolt port (I used this thunderbolt-to-DVI cable)
  • Monitor 3: driven via USB 3.0 adapter (I used this one from CableMatters and have had zero issues with flicker/performance, although I am not trying to play games or watch video on it...I use it for work).

    Some notes:

  • You can use a different USB adapter (there are several on the market) but make sure that it's Mac compatible. I previously tried one that had "beta" Mac support and it was terrible.
  • Thunderbolt-to-HDMI and Thunderbolt-to-DVI cables are really mini-displayport to DVI/HDMI cables....the Thunderbolt ports accept mini-displayport connectors.
  • For the two natively driven monitors (#1 and #2 above) you can use any combination of HDMI<->HDMI/DVI or thunderbolt<->HDMI/DVI cables depending on what your monitor accepts.


u/Lentarg · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

This is the one I use. I don’t think that having an active adapter matters, but I’ve read some testimonies towards active when using extension cables. I haven’t had any luck with extension cables though so I just run the headset straight into this adapter.

Rankie DisplayPort (DP) to HDMI Adapter, 4K Resolution Ready Converter Audio, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010SDZZ80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vof5Bb7E1Q9BP

u/JukeboxJohnny · 1 pointr/Surface

Yep! I used to have an AMD video card that required an active mini-DP adapter. I figure my screens weren't working because they were passive, so I tried this Plugable Active adapter. It received picture, but there was a funky flashing/choppy looking bit at the top of the screen. I will have to take a picture of it. Aside from the choppy bit, it worked fine, if I remember correctly.

What other mini-displayport to DP or HDMI (must be 4K compatible) are out there? I am pretty sure the HDMI cable I was using was 1.4 compliant.

u/CaptainBlazeHeartnes · 1 pointr/ultrawidemasterrace

If without the adapter the monitor runs at its native resolution then it's almost certainly your adapter, which appears to just be a simple passive cable.

Something like this should fit the bill.

Edit:adapter is the first result from a web search and not a specific recommendation. I've never looked into adapters just saw some things when I was looking for a new monitor. You're better off doing some research on which adapter is the best buy.

u/Canadian_Neckbeard · 1 pointr/HTC_Vive

I haven't had any issues, even on games that don't have native WMR support. My only issue was the short cable with the Odyssey, but I picked up these three items to extend the cable and stick them to my desk and it's working perfectly and now has the same range as my vive did.

Something I should add, the og vive with wireless and a das would cost less than a vive pro, but you'd have wireless, which improves immersion drastically. Not to add another thing for you to consider and further complicate your decision making process.

u/kevp453 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Reading up on the R9 290 it looks like it can't actually output 4k over HDMI, only the Displayport. Best way to make it work would be a an Displayport 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter like this one on Amazon.


If you don't get that exact one, make sure to get one that is an "Active Adapter"

u/mkevinez · 1 pointr/fireTV

I think I found one on Amazon (looked on monoprice but wasn't sure about the search results). Thanks a bunch! It says that it is an active converter and it even said it has its own power like you mentioned. I'll be giving this adapter a try


u/OculusSupport · 1 pointr/oculus

Hi there! It's always recommended to have both your display and Rift connected directly to your dedicated GPU without adapters, but if you need to use one then we recommend using it for your display rather than your Rift, and connect your Rift directly. Also, not all adapters will work with the Rift. For HDMI to DisplayPort, we approve of the one available here, as we've tested it and have not had problems. If you have any further questions, please click here to submit a ticket. Thanks!

u/RyMopar · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

Probably depends on the case, but the one that comes with the Google Pixel fits perfectly with the Spigen neo hybrid. http://i.imgur.com/YKIbhU3.png

I can't seem to find any exactly like it online though. Maybe one like this with the smaller C end casing?

u/speling_champyun · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

yes i would recommend the active displayport adapters to achieve 4x simultaneous displays.

curious - this one says its active. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
have you tried that one^ and the two mini-DP's only - leaving the VGA one out. i'd be interested to know if that gets you 3x displays.

u/VirtualRealityOasis · 27 pointsr/oculus

If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;

Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!

The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.

I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.

Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.

Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;

Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0

KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2

US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension

DVI to HDMI Adapter:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1

US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1

CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0

US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0

UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable

US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable

Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:

UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater

US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater

Hope this helps :)

u/Shenji06 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

im trying to run a 3 monitor setup but i am confused as to how to proceed, 2 will be used as dual and 1 will be mirroed (tv for movies and etc)

the plugs i have to work with are hdmi,display port and vgi.

For some reason my other hdmi plug and vga,vgi dont seem to connect so im thinking that the lower 3 i listed is the only combination that i can get this too work (sorry if confusing but i tried everything and at my wits end trying to get it to work)

monitor 1 (hp 22er) Monitor 2 (acer x223w) (monitor 3 that will mirror monitor 1 Vizio sv470m)
graphics card geforce gtx 750 ti

if it help my setup with 2 monitors (they just mirrowed each other ) was hdmi (to my vizio and vgi cable acer to pc)

this is what i found that could work but im unsure if i got the right male to female thing. for display port at the back of my pc to connect it to a hdmi cable from my tv


if anyone as a better solution or anything il appreciate it and thanks in advance

edit: after looking more into it in the long run would i be better off with this ? would it even work ?


u/Syribo · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

I have a monitor similar to this, the Acer G276HLGbd which is just a VA panel instead of IPS. I use a DVI to DP adapter for it, and it's perfect. I use it as my side portrait monitor, but only had free Display Ports on my 980ti, so I got the adapter and it's great.

And more specifically, this is the adapter I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EDT01TO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Hell0Everyone · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Does anyone know any good USB-C Chargers that actually supply the full 18w to an undocked switch? For example, is this charger good for it? I heard the Google Pixel 18w charger is good. Also, if I use a female USB-A to C adapter with my Pro Controller cable (example), would that support the full 18w charging?

I'd like a cheaper, USB-C both ends cable recommendation too.

u/beowulfpt · 1 pointr/kobo

Android with a USB-OTG cable (Anker has good ones - this one is for USB C on the phone and connects directly to the Kobo microUSB cable) - but you can get other combos - connect phone to Kobo, transfer files between the two. Fast and easy.

I'm 100% sure this works because I do it sometimes with a Kobo [Clara] and a Samsung Note 8 - had some epubs on the phone that I wanted on the Kobo and vice versa. $8 solution.

Anything using cloud storage (Dropbox, etc) or FTP might work well too but maybe not on stock firmwares and it's not a big drawback to carry a tiny USB-OTG cable along on vacation, plus it's handy for other uses (external DAC/Amps, etc).

u/azeia · 6 pointsr/Amd

I don't think there would be any "audio delay" or anything. These adaptors may be "active", but they aren't like transcoders; both displayport and hdmi support pretty much the same colorspaces for video, and same audio formats. All it's doing is changing the transport layer.

Honestly, an HDMI repeater or even your home theater receiver probably would be more or less the same amount of "delay" if not more.

There are however some meh adapters out there, I recently had to go through like two bad ones before I found a good one; it was sort of my fault since I was trying to cheap out by going for inexpensive junk. If you do get one, I highly recommend 'Plugable' brand ones, like this one, this is the one that finally worked for me; they seem to be one of the better and more reputable companies for adapters, etc.

u/unrelatedspam · 3 pointsr/hackintosh

I know you said not TVs but this is what I have and it is awesome 50” Samsung MU6300. Does the 4K at 60hz.

I had to buy this display port to hdmi: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017BQ8I54
And this HDMI cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRA11IU

I needed both of these for the hackintosh to display in 4K . Do not try to buy other cables unless you are sure they support 4K.

Also you may need to tweak the settings. See this guide:

u/mrimmaculate · 1 pointr/oculus

I'm running a similar setup to what you're looking at, just a bit shorter and less expensive. I couldn't see the need for the extra five feet.


Some zip ties, heat shrink and cable sleeving keeps it nice and tidy. I keep it clipped to the side of my desk with a binder clip to keep tension off the back of my computer. It also makes it nice and easy to disconnect when I'm not using it.

Other people have reported having good luck with the Vive box.


If you go that route you'll also need to find a power supply and you still need to find cables.

I didn't have any luck with the Insignia cable from BestBuy. It's seems pretty hit or miss.

u/geekRD1 · 1 pointr/nexus5x

Right, I don't believe Fi is available outside the US.

I had purchased a pack of A- micro cables a few months before switching phones - I really liked the 1' length in the car.

I got a 2 pack of these techmatte adapters, and use 1 in the car and 1 on the cable to connect to my PC. I also used a little bit of heat shrink wrap to help make them stay on the cables a little better.

I am thinking about getting a true quick charge compatible car charger and an extra c-c cable for that, as I've noticed that with streaming music, gps, bright screen, and other things, the phone drains faster than the current charger can keep up.

so those adapters will make it so you have some extra charging options, albeit slower charging than the charger that came with the phone.

u/immortaldual · 2 pointsr/oculus

I've extended all my sensors and my headset to give me full use of my computer room using only passive. Sounds like you've already got this to work but here's what I use in case anyone else wants to know. Cost me in total, like $45 and everything works perfectly.

Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6 Feet (Latest Standard)

Cable Matters (2 Pack) Gold-Plated High Speed HDMI Female Coupler 3D & 4K Resolution-Ready

u/gj80 · 2 pointsr/oculus

Carabiners are useful. Clip one to a back belt loop on a pair of jeans/etc, then loop the cable through it. It goes a long way towards keeping the cable out of the way of your feet. It also cuts down on the amount of "tugging" you feel on your head as you pull the cable along behind you, which makes it feel a little less immersion-breaking.

> Do I need to get some extension cables to allow more freedom of movement further away from my PC? If so, which ones?

I think so, assuming you have the play space. Oculus has some recommended cables. I bought these 10ft extensions on Amazon and they have served me well with quite a few different headsets with no issues - HDMI and USB

u/KyleMC · 2 pointsr/teslamotors

Can you upload a couple of pics or short video of what the setup looks like under the charging pad? I wasn’t sure it would have enough clearance. Would be nice to see either way. Also, seems like if that brand of splitter would work, this one would have to work too: Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j4iSBb98Z0AHZ. Assuming that, I wonder what would be the most aesthetically pleasing would be.

u/Ayit_Sevi · 2 pointsr/techsupport

The cable plugs into the motherboard in the white connector towards the left. Then the cable plugs into the hard drive, there's a latch on the top of the cable cable that should line up with the opening on the hard drive, plus it's keyed so you shouldn't have to many issues. The molex cable is sided as well, like a trapazoid so it will only fit in one way. For the power supply, you can use the old one to power just the hard drive but I thought you said the current power supply had a molex connector. If you still don't think you're able to do it right, you might be better off getting a IDE to USB adapter like this. I have one myself and it works well, I kept the box and it stays in a drawer when I'm not using it.

u/Theophilos · 4 pointsr/buildapcsales

My 5-year-old 27" Samsung 1080p TN monitor broke last week, so I went down to Costco and picked up this exact model for $369. I love it. I'll be trying to get a price match on this model, but i had a feeling it'd go on sale for Black Friday since it's been on sale a couple times this month. It's one of the better 40" 4k TVs to use as a monitor, according to: http://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/samsung/ku6300.

Input lag and reponse time are pretty low for a TV, but nothing close to a good monitor, but I don't notice any negatives compared to my old monitor. The viewing angles are decent, but not fantastic. My GTX 780 doesn't have HDMI 2.0, so I bought this converter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017BQ8I54. If it introduces any additional lag, I didn't notice.

I don't play twitch FPS games, so take that into consideration. I do play a lot of Skyrim and its great, though I can't power it at 4k, so it's only 1080p for gaming until I upgrade. I use it primarily for web browsing and programming and it does a good job at those tasks.

If it hadn't worked out for me, I probably would've returned it for something else, but I like it a lot. In my opinion, for $269, it's a steal.

u/jerkstore4 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I think your best bet will be buying an adapter. You want an active display port adapter. It needs to be "active" meaning it's the adapter itself that handles the conversion.

Active displayport to VGA is cheapest at $15 and looks just as good as VGA straight off the card. If one of your monitors is already using an analog connection, then just pick up one of these.

The active displayport to DVI or HDMI is an all digital conversion so there's no quality loss. They cost a bit more at around 20 bucks.

u/Internet151 · 2 pointsr/electricdaisycarnival

The Nexus 6P has a huge battery, I was never anywhere close to running out of juice during that 8-hour event with all the video I was shooting.

Just to be safe though, in situations like this were draining my phone is a possibility I just carry a really thin battery bank in my pocket. Also, the peace of mind let's me go nuts and use my phone as much as I want, which is nice.

I use this one, along with a tiny micro usb to USB-C adapter I stick in my wallet.



u/nestechs · 2 pointsr/Vive

I needed the exact same thing. This is what I went with from amazon. They work great. One is the set of the tripods and the other is the mini ball head you will need for each lighthouse with the tripod.

I would also recommend extending the triple cable an extra 10 feet. You won't be able to keep the cable and HMD in the box after adding the cables, but it doesn't get tangled as easy and just works better when having other people try it for the first time.

u/Bullet_King1996 · 1 pointr/ultrawidemasterrace

Seems like an adapter issue, you might have a passive one instead of an active adapter.

You'll need something like this

Can't guarantee 100% that this will work but hey, it's not extremely expensive so if it doesn't work it's not that bad..
I'm hoping it will, keep me updated if you do decide to get one :)

u/mrmobss · 1 pointr/OculusQuest

Bought the recommended Anker cable and these:

USB 3.0 Extension: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Yu30DbJSVHERE

USB C Right Angle: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B078YRKTKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Aw30Db77XKPWZ

Anker cable and extension worked like a charm, however the right angle gave me connection issues so I am returning it. As well it took me a few tries on different use ports to find the one that worked for me. If anyone is looking for a extension this works well.

Other findings are that if the quest goes all black, its best to do a full restart and connection resumes as normal. If not check your connections.

u/RojasTKD · 2 pointsr/oculus

I've used these with my Ride S and they work fine. Keep in mind it's about more than just you cables. It has to do with your USB ports too. I've found my IXT motherboards tend to work better than my ATX boards. I think the shorter traces of ITX make for better signal integrity.

So the same cable my work for some people and not for others. Good luck!



u/stolirocks · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

I use a 15ft active USB cable, 3ft displayport to hdmi adapter, 15ft active hdmi cable, and a link box in between. With my Lenovo explorer. Works perfectly. Holds 90fps. And no static or anything. I use the bluetooth on the link box.

Plugable Active DisplayPort to... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014I8T8FC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Cable Matters USB 3.0 Cable (USB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSS9LEI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

HTC Vive Link Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

AC to DC 12V 1.5A 12V1.5A Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JL0YIY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/Hard_Celery · 1 pointr/techsupport

Cable is fine it most likely doesn't support [email protected] over hdmi.

You'll need a active displayport cable to hdmi converter to do [email protected]

Like this one https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B017BQ8I54

Edit:I have a 4k TV and I've had multiple gpu's and that adapter. Not sure why I got downvoted. None of Intel's CPUs support HDMI 2.0. A regular convertor will not give you 60hz at 4k you need a active one, like I linked.

u/JDFanning · 1 pointr/miniSNES

IT might be that the SNES mini does not have enough power going through the HDMI source to run the converter inside the Adapter - while the PC probably does. How are you plugging in the SNES mini ( ie. using the USB port on a TV or using the wall plug - could be it needs a better power source if using a USB port on your TV it might not provide enough Amperage to run both the SNES and the adapter using the HDMI source from the SNES. For the SNES you might need an adapter that has an input for an external power source rather than one that uses the power from the HDMI cable.

Something like this one ( https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-HDMI-Adapter-Black/dp/B00879DM56 ) that has the USB power input which says :

" USB POWERED ACTIVE ADAPTER has built-in IC chip to improve compatibility between equipment and displays; USB power boosts the signal from computers with low power HDMI ports such as the MacBook Pro with Retina Display or Raspberry Pi "

u/TheGift1973 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

That should work perfectly fine for what you want.

Just remove the harddrive from your non-working laptop; connect the USB end to a working PC and the sata end to the hard drive you just removed and you should be able to access the hard drive as you would any other attached HDD/SSD.

You may have to take ownership of the folders (including other sub-folders as well, but that is also pretty straight forward. If you do run into that issue and need help, just ask.

Personally I use something like this as I am always having to access data for people whose computers have become damaged for whatever reason. It covers both 2.5" and 3.5" SATA and IDE. But if this is just a one-off data recovery mission, then the one you have linked to will do just fine.

u/Phludd · 1 pointr/oculus

I have all 4 of my sensors mounted 7 ft up, I have switched back to only using 3 till I get this issue resolved.

I tried using the cable matters 16ft active USB 3.0 cable for one of my fronts sensors but it wouldnt detect as 3.0, so I swapped it for the 10ft passive one and it worked fine.

Here are the mounts and cable I have had success with:

10ft USB 3.0 cable-

u/ryzeki · 1 pointr/nvidia

Does your monitor support full 4K 60hz 4:4:4? If yes, does your EVGA sport a mini DP or DP port? At least 1.2?

For my previous laptop, I had to use a 1.2 display port to HDMI 2.0 active dongle.

I recommend this Club3D one, as it has worked for me for both 4k 60hz RGB full and YCbCr444.

u/BahnYuki · 3 pointsr/crtgaming

I use my OSSC on my 21" apple studio monitor via hdmi to vga adapter here Rankie HDMI to VGA Adapter with 3.5mm Audio Port (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GLtPCbYP5B3QG

Works pretty great in line double mode. I can get x3 and x4 working but I feel x2 is best.

u/kingkea · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

This one: Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4K / UHD / [email protected]) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_A6SuzbDP7NTBB

Works perfect for me. Game 4K60 all day (well, for the few titles that'll allow me to push it that high 😁)

u/BoltsNolesRaysBucs · 1 pointr/techsupport

This is the adapter, it states:
>Supports resolutions up to 3840x2160 (4K) Ultra-HD @ 60Hz, [email protected]

Also reviews in the product says people got it to work [email protected]


I just tried the VR headset > DP adapter and lo and behold it worked. I've only tried 1 little game so far but that worked as well as before. The reason I didn't think it would work is because my headset outputs at 2880x1440 apparently at 90hz(I wouldn't know how to check besides what the specs say) which is nearly same bandwidth as [email protected] So I'm still curious as to why PC DP>Adapter>4K TV doesn't work, but I'm glad to have a workaround. I think it should be okay to have the TV in the HDMI port on my gpu, when I get another monitor down the road(will be a strange setup) that will have DP input so that should work seamlessly.

The only thing I still have a problem with is my computer says its in multi-display mode even with the VR unplugged and the only monitor plugged in is the TV. Device Manager says there is a Generic Non-PnP Monitor on the integrated GPU and a Generic PnP Monitor on my gtx 1060. Any idea why this could be?

Thank you so much

u/snowmiserVR · 1 pointr/oculus

If you are looking to make an extension cord I got one working using these:

  • HDMI to DVI
  • USB 3 extension
  • High quality HDMI extension

    The HDMI to DVI is critical as DVI port gets more power allocated to it on your graphics card. It didn't work at all when I tested it without that. I do get a tiny bit of visual artifacts on all black loading screens (maybe a better hdmi cable could fix that) but all in all I am very happy with how it turned out. Now my headset cable is 5.5 meters long and I never have any problems playing room scale.
u/TKG8 · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

This is the one I am/was using getting my new monitor today but it worked great for my vga one

HDMI to VGA, 1080P with Audio Port, Rankie Gold-Plated Active HDMI HDTV to VGA Adapter Converter Male to Female with Micro USB & 3.5mm Audio Port Cable - R1150 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x1bEybNJ88QZG

u/Gingaskunk · 0 pointsr/Vive

So these are small things that may or may not be useful to you but I bought them when I got my Vive and if I were buying again, I'd get these again.

To extend the cable I got HDMI Extenders and USB Extenders. This gives you another 10 feet of cord to play with.

Also, switches for the lighthouses. You may find that using Bluetooth works fine, but I like physically switching mine on and off.

If you plan to move it around (take to places for demos) then I have some other recommendations too.

u/WeGooded · 1 pointr/teslamotors

I have no experience with the 3rd party versions, but the official Tesla one is just part of the car. It feels like it was always there and will last with the car.
It was tough to justify the price, but I’m glad I did.

I got two Onvian splitters, neatly plugged in, wound up on themselves and used some black electrical tape to tuck everything up behind the pad. Thumb drive is up in there a bit, but accessible. Same with the ‘spare’ open USB port.

Onvian USB Splitter Cable Male to 2 Female Adapter USB A Cord 2 Port Hub for Data Charging Syncing (Only one Port for Data) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KX4TKH6

u/corpnewt · 1 pointr/hackintosh

HDMI 2.0 supports 4k @ 60Hz 4:4:4 chroma. HDMI 1.4a (which is what most HDMI ports act like in macOS) supports 4k @ 30Hz 4:4:4 chroma. /u/cman8tor likely needs an active DP -> HDMI adapter (like the Club3D CAC-1070 mentioned by /u/z0rian). Although - some reports of it working via HDMI 2.0b have been noted - however, they seem rather unexplained/unpredictable.

Also worth noting that the Pixel Clock Patch (maintained by Floris497) - which lifted that "see everything as HDMI 1.4a" behavior - hasn't been super reliable since Sierra.


Hopefully that helps!



u/j4nds4 · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I think he’s right. I had the exact same issue you’re describing while using the HDMI port on my Gigabyte G1 390, and it was not resolved until I switched to using a DisplayPort active adapter after which things worked perfectly.

This is the one I got. There are cheaper ones out there, but most of them are passive and won’t support the necessary bandwidth.

u/mysql101 · 1 pointr/teslamotors

Interesting. I actually have a usb splitter so I can run a ssd in the car. That means one of the two cables to the wireless pad is power-only. I'll check to see if it's the one side that is functional. Thanks =)


edit: heres the cable https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KX4TKH6/

Just checked and the one with this splitter is the one functioning. So I ordered a second one. Will allow me to add a second ssd to boot.

u/AZImmortal · 1 pointr/oneplus

These are the ones I'm currently using.


The important thing is to look in the reviews for Benson Leung's stamp of approval. His review is pretty much always the highest-rated one if he reviewed the product. If he hasn't reviewed a particular adapter or if he doesn't give it five stars, then stay clear.

u/MeatSafeMurderer · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

They do work but they need to be active. DVI-I / DVI-A to VGA are passive conversion, that is nothing needs to be done to the signals for them to work, but obviously since neither DVI-D or HDMI actually carry the analog signal that won't work.

Used DisplayPort versions of these before so they should be good


u/grabthar · 1 pointr/AskBattlestations

To connect the MacBook Pro to a PG278Q, you'll need a USB C to displayport cable like this one.
The switching part is where things get tricky. You can get a 2:1 displayport switch like the Lindy brand one on Amazon, but it's only going to support 60hz max. That's fine for the Macbook, but I assume you're going to want a 144hz signal from the PC so that you can enjoy all that your G-Sync video card has to offer. And from what I can tell, there are no displayport switches that can handle 144hz or even 120hz. And even if there were, the cost would be high enough that buying a separate 1440p or 4k monitor just for the Macbook starts to make sense.

u/El_duderino_33 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I use the Cable Matters DP and USB cablse. Sorry my memory failed me, actually I just got the 1.8m (6 feet) it seems. I forgot I got a shorter one for the Rift S (had much longer 15' HDMI ones for cv1). The included cable on the Rift S being longer made this all I needed to reach all parts of my play space. I really just like to have something between the headset and my video card ports, and an easy access to unplug/replug right next to the couch, so these work perfect for me.

I did a quick search and found some folks talking about using at least 10' extension and maybe up to 5m, but couldn't find a link to a specific cable (I only looked for about 1 minute, I'm sure if you dust off your Google-fu you can find it if you really need one that long, I would imagine such a cable would include an active repeater and perhaps get kinda pricey).

Here is that thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/oculus/comments/beloox/oculus_rift_s_display_port_extension/

And here are the one's I am using with no issues:

6' (1.8m) DP cable (Cable Matters):


6' USB cable (Cable Matters):


u/stephengee · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

You should be fine with any old pata>usb adapter.

If they're from a windows xp machine, 99% positive they will be NTFS. You'll have no trouble at all reading them from any windows machine.

If they weren't failing, recovering the files is as simple as copying them to another storage device.

As for viruses, its nearly impossible to infect your PC just by having the disks plugged in. When you install them, before opening any files, just use windows defender to scan them manually if you want some peace of mind.

If the disk is encrypted, well you're probably shit out of luck.

u/BlacKnight495 · 0 pointsr/WindowsMR

I got this one from Best buy below. You should also check to make sure you have it plugged into a 3.0 port and also that the extender is USB 3.0 compatible as well. I also linked the us extender from Amazon below.


Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable / USB 3 Extension Cable) in Black 6 Feet - Available 3FT - 10FT in Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FQC-AbJFAYJGV

u/Nimelrian · 4 pointsr/hardware

Yes, most adapters only support HDMI 1.4

There is an active adapter from Club3D which supports HDMI 2.0. I use it for my Fury X and can enjoy 4K60 on my TV. Costs around 35€.


u/Kaiyening · 2 pointsr/OculusQuest

So I've tested Link with an eGPU (external graphics card / dock). It eventually worked for me. Here are the specs:

  1. Both the onboard USB 3.1 Gen 1 port (left side) and the Virtual Link port on the external GPU (the one that's a USB-C port found on most RTX GPU's) worked fine, and showed very similar performance.
  2. Oculus software should not run the beta version, and Oculus Quest should not have Developer mode on.
  3. Performance is OK, but is obviously considerably lower (at least by 20 to 40%) than had the Quest been connected to a conventional desktop PC with the same specs. Without the headset on the same eGPU setup, VR Mark Orange Room scores about 6000 points. With the headset on and running the test in Oculus virtual desktop (not natively on the HMD displays, though) shows the lowest of 4700 points. Onboard GTX 1050 2GB without the headset would show about 2500 points. My Yoga 15 is downvolted a bit with TB kept on.
  4. Image definitely looks more blurry than I'd want, but I will keep fiddling with Oculus/SteamVR settings. I have also noticed timewarp artifacts on some objects over the edges when turning my head very fast, but those are sometimes there, and sometimes are not. Not sure what's the main cause yet.
  5. You probably do not want to have anything connected to the same USB 3 hub or controller as the one that you have you Quest connected to when you initially connect it to the PC. When I had peripherals connected to the same Corsair ST100 Headphones Stand, Quest would had kept showing a red "x" until I would disconnect the other devices first. When I reconnected those while using the headset, everything was working fine, though; that is until I re-connected the Quest again. Other stuff had to be disconnected first from that hub again then.
  6. Performance was 5-10% lower than when running VR Mark Orange Room via the Oculus Virtual desktop than when just running it on an internal display.
  7. Performance seems to be the same when running Link with either an external monitor connected to the eGPU or with an internal monitor of the laptop itself.
  8. The following cable DID NOT WORK: TOPWE USB Type C Cable USB C Cable (2 Pack 10FT) Type C Charger USB 3.0 Date Sync 3A Fast Charging Cable. DO NOT BUY THIS CABLE to use with the Quest, unless otherwise confirmed for your setup.


    I knew what I was getting into, but using a Rift S with such setup instead of the Quest/Link is preferred due to TB3 limitations when feeding the signal back to the PC. Ideally, you would not use Oculus Quest or even a Rift S with an eGPU setup, but this is the setup I have, so here we are: it is confirmed to be working on a Windows machine and an RTX 2070 eGPU, as long as you have proper USB 3 ports. This depends on your laptop, though, hence Virtual Link port can save the day for some people.
u/aryaazar78 · 1 pointr/techsupport

What phone do you have? For an Android from the past few years, you could use something like this. You'd plug it into your phone, then plug a flash drive with a lot of storage onto the other side. If your phone supports microSD you can get a big microSD card. Be careful though since a phone supports a Max size of microSD.

How many videos do you want? How much storage? Will you have access to WiFi?

u/mm_5687 · 2 pointsr/Dell

Have you tried USB-C to DisplayPort directly to verify if it's the adaptor or the cable that's the issue?

Most DisplayPort hardware, I guess dongles in particular, will be passive. For DisplayPort to DVI or HDMI you need to get an active convertor, something like this that will convert the DP signal to HDMI/DVI.

There's plenty of information on the topic here:

Edit: This one seems to support 2560x1440 whilst the other may only reach 1920x1080: https://www.amazon.com/Sienoc-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter-4096x2160-Black/dp/B00XXNER3M/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484871155&sr=8-4&keywords=displayport+to+dvi+active

u/mikegriffin84 · 1 pointr/oculus

Yeah the repeater is so cheap it is worth it to add it just to have it. Another possible solution is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or this:

Because we are finding out the HDMI signal is weaker than the DVI and Display ports on a lot of graphics cards.

But like I said the repeater has made my extremely long cables work well I have consistently played for 2 hours now with no issues of any kind. Before the repeater the cable I linked to just didn't work at all... I had a black screen and my other cable I bought would work for a while then would drop the signal momentarily and come back on.

Personally I ordered all three of the options I presented and plan to test them all. Currently I am using what I presented to you first and want to use it for at least a couple days or until I have an issue if I find an issue I will move on to the next option and rinse and repeat. But as of now I am very confident the repeater is the way to go.

u/ShadowMagi · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

I thought maybe something like that might be going on. I've read the same thing, and even in laptop cases where there's some level of hardware switching going on, that kind of setup (if it works at all) will add extra latency regardless of other performance penalties.

Thankfully there's a relatively cheap and easy solution. I use this to connect to my monitor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM and leave the headset in the graphics card HDMI slot. Other brands will likely work, these are just the specific ones I use.


u/justPassingThrou64 · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

> now I'm curious to find out whether it's worth it to pay $40 for an adapter.


this is the one microsoft recommends.

Also, I think you can get steam to tell you how many frames you're getting pretty easily. getting WMR to tell you is a bit more convoluted.

u/ziggo0 · 1 pointr/Nexus6P


Benson approved, very well priced - works great on my 6P.

u/Luolk · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

First off, you are awesome and helped solved my final issue. Second off, both of the HDMI extensions I linked worked after this display port to HDMI adapter. For my setup I have 3 display ports, 1 HDMI, and 1 DVI on my graphics card. I have a 3 monitor setup that uses 3 of the ports and was looking for an HDMI switch to go from my room setup to the living room, but after seeing that this adapter worked, I'm just ordering a DVI to HDMI for my third monitor. Basically me testing the adapter helped solve my issue and I really appreciate you asking :)

u/the14thgod · 1 pointr/htpc

I couldn't find the settings for refresh rate(on the TV) but I do have a 4K TV along with the AVR. Is there a recommended adapter/brand?
edit: clarity
dbl edit: Looks like this should do the trick?

u/sk9592 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I am not certain about this adaptor. It might, but most adaptors that claim to support 4K are actually just HDMI 1.4.

I can guarantee that this adaptor will work though. Several people with Furys used this in particular adaptor to get HDMI 2.0:


There is also a mini display port version of this if you need it.

Most importantly, this adaptor supports 4:4:4 chroma. Most adaptors only do 4:2:0. 4:2:0 is alright for video, but it looks like ass for computer interfaces.

u/omgwtfamidoinghere · 1 pointr/techsupport

If you're just looking for an adapter, yes they do exist. I use one for hard drives all the time but I don't see why it wouldn't work with an optical drive as well. If you'd like, I could test it out later tonight.

I use something like this, Sabrent USB 2.0 TO SATA/IDE 2.5/3.5/-INCH Hard Drive Converter With Power Supply & LED Activity Lights [4TB Support] (USB-DSC5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HJ99DI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j6MCybNDNXQQ4

u/anthonyh90 · 1 pointr/Huawei

I've used an audioquest dragonfly with my mate 20 Pro with great success. You'll just need a USB-C adapter. I use the Anker USB-C OTG cable. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anker-Converts-Technology-Compatible-ChromeBook-black/dp/B01COOQIKU?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_4

u/tmn72tx · 1 pointr/macbookair

The solutions to do this is to daisy chain monitors that will support that, use something like Matrox, or drive one monitor from Thunderbolt and the other with a USB adaptor. Both the Matrox and USB are essentially external video cards that allow you to drive another monitor from the MacBook Air.

I haven't found a solution that is simple or cheap yet. The adapters that have multiple video ports only support one monitor from the ones I have tried.

Matrox: http://www.matrox.com/graphics/en/products/gxm/dh2go/digital_me/

Example of USB: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Adapter-2560x1440-1920x1200/dp/B00BPEV1XK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486129982&sr=8-3&keywords=MacBook+USB+to+video

u/ShitOnRickard5 · 2 pointsr/Dell

Note that it will have to be an active HDMI 2.0 adapter. Passive adapters will not work. I'm using a combination of a cheap USB-C to Displayport dongle and the Plugable Displayport to HDMI 2.0 active adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8) to drive a 43" 4K Samsung at 4K60Hz from my XPS 9350, and it works beautifully. There are a couple of combined adapters now available as well, which adapt directly from USB-C to HDMI 2.0 and should do the trick, though I haven't used any of them myself. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Incompatible/dp/B01K51GM46

u/caltheon · 1 pointr/Vive

From reading up on other posts, It looks like the amazon basics 6' USB extension cable works best. some have had luck with 10' cables, but some report issues. If you want to go further, you need to get an active connector which are much more expensive. Also, USB needs to be 3.0 and SuperSpeed. The thicker the better for shielding IMHO. The HDMI extension just needs to be rated HDMI 2.0 or higher. I don't think it's as big of a pain as the USB

Here's what I got, arrives Thursday



u/CyberJeeves · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

Ok, you could purchase a USB 3.0 to HDMI converter, and connect one monitor to the native HDMI port on the Z710. Then plug a USB end into the laptop and an HDMI cord to the other monitor and the HDMI end on the adapter. You'll have to make sure that you configure everything in the display properties to make them work independently, but this should be a good solution.

u/iNeedAValidUserName · 1 pointr/sffpc

It would help to know what exactly your current setup is.

Given you don't have an HDMI out currently, I'm assuming you don't have a dGPU at all? actually read your post. What chipset do you have, and what's your [current] budget?

You can, of course, order a USB 3.0 to HDMI solution, but they aren't really reasonably priced if you plan on upgrading other parts in the future anyways.

It may make sense to just outright replace your MoBo with one that has an HDMI out if you don't ever want to have a DGPU - especially if you don't plan on updating chipsets since older chipset MoBos will be hard to find as time goes on.

If you DO plan on getting a dgpu at some point, a low profile 1050Ti may be a good solution without limiting your case options later on. Realistically, though, if this is just for displaying media the 1050ti is likely way more than you need - and you could get a cheaper 1030, I just dont' recommend the 1030 since it's a terrible performance/dollar. At $150 for the 1050ti though, outright replacing the MoBo may be your most reasonable solution.

IDK if there is a low profile, single slot 1050TI out there, that would be ideal for future case options if there is.

u/vgnmnky · 1 pointr/intelnuc

Update: Bought this cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's USB-C to DP, and it works flawlessly, so far. As it's being used in a Thunderbolt 3 port, it supports higher resolutions at higher refresh rates, so my 2560x1440 @60Hz is fine.

It shouldn't have been necessary, and it's more expensive than any old HDMI cable, but I'm so relieved that it's sorted.

I'll re-check the HDMI to HDMI situation every now and then, after a big kernel or BIOS update, especially as I might want to free up the TB3 port in the future.

u/imranh101 · 2 pointsr/Vive

The thing I would think of here is that the USB A to C cable you have is only meant for the USB A to be host (Computer) and USB C to be client (Phone) for transferring data between computer and phone or etc. and does not have the correct wiring to have USB C be the host and the linkbox to be client.

The way this works is there is a resistor placed the CC pin/wire on the USB-C connector and ground, essentially creating a tiny short, that tells whatever the USB-C is connected to, "Hey, you're the host of this connection". Since this cable is probably meant to charge phones etc. it does not have that resistor/short built in. That connection is what causes the usb-C side device to go ahead and power the +5v connection TO the other end of the cable, in this case, the USB-A (USB 3) end of the cable. Therefore, your linkbox, and in turn, Vive, is not currently getting any power via USB - which, yes, the Vive does have it's own power cable, but it surely also uses the USB 5v for some specific stuff on the Vive.

Getting a USB-C OTG adapter should solve your problems, you would use this and then plug the HTC Vive's original USB cable, coming out of the link box, in to this. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Converts-Technology-Compatible/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511415846&sr=8-3&keywords=usb-c+otg

TL;DR Your cable is meant to charge phones/connect phones to PC, whatever is on the USB-C side is the "Accessory". Since you are using the USB-C plug on the PC side, the Vive is the "Host" and the PC is the "Accessory". USB cables only go "one way", in a sense. Getting a USB-C OTG adapter SHOULD work, but don't blame me if this doesn't work!

u/webvictim · 2 pointsr/apple

For HDMI I have one of these and it's great: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MYUCWOK

For USB 3, I already owned a hub/ethernet dongle combo: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PC0J1VC

To make it work with USB-C I bought a USB A -> USB C converter: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01COOQIKU

All of these work fine and are considerably cheaper than the Apple alternatives. Anker seem to be a good company when it comes to dongles.

u/Dragynfyre · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Okay so it does look like active adapters are advertising 4K 60Hz support so this might work


u/HandofWinter · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

You'll need an active DisplayPort 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter. I used the Plugable adapter between my 290x and original Odyssey just because it was the one recommended on the windows support page. It worked well.

I had a Club3D adapter that I used to connect to my tv which didn't work with the Odyssey. It had a strange sizing issue between the HDMI port on the adapter and the Odyssey. I simply couldn't plug them into each other, though other HDMI cables and ports worked with each.

u/UserID_ · 13 pointsr/ValveIndex

If anyone needs a smaller run- I successfully extended my setup 6 feet using cheap cables off Amazon.

These are the exact cables I’m using:

Cable Matters USB to USB Extension Cable (USB 3.0 Extension Cable) in Black 6 Feet for Oculus Rift, HTC Vive, Playstation VR Headset and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7S2FRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fRCRDbCTBPZSF

Cable Matters DisplayPort to DisplayPort Extension Cable (DP to DP Extension Cable) 6 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1K1G74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oSCRDbD0YGAVG

For reference: AORUS RTX 2080 Waterforce

Going direct into the MOBO for the USB extender.

I have been running it this was for close to a month and have logged probably a day worth of playtime. I have not noticed any blips/artifacts or any visual/lag issues. It’s like the cables aren’t even there.

u/sbddude · 3 pointsr/applehelp

While USB to HDMI adapters do exist, your machine has USB 2.0 (not USB 3.0) so it is to be determined if it will work well with USB 2.0.

If USB 2.0 is too laggy or doesn't work, t think your best bet will be to use the Thunderbolt or Expresscard slot to add a USB 3.0 port, then connect the HDMI adapter to it.

Here is one HDMI/USB 3.0 adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters®-SuperSpeed-2048x1152-1920x1200/dp/B00BPEV1XK

u/browncoat_girl · 2 pointsr/Amd

You can't use more than 3 non DP displays unless you use active DP adapters. Your TV is probably connected using a passive DP to HDMI adapter. You need an active one like this https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Technology/dp/B00EDT0072/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482528470&sr=8-1&keywords=active+displayport+to+hdmi

u/erstech · 6 pointsr/GooglePixel

Correct, that dongle is for the Chromebook Pixel. Almost no Android phone these days contains the chip needed for HDMI output natively. The solution I use that is very reliable in most situations is an adapter that uses the DisplayLink protocol.

I use this adapter or the 2K version: https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA2XB38Z2801
It's also on Amazon, I just found this link first.
You'll also need a USB 3.0 capable USB-C OTG adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01COOQIKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_T.Pxyb7RV5ABE

And lastly, install the DisplayLink Presenter app on your device. Once set up it will output the full display at all times (though media apps like Netflix and Hulu generally don't work).

u/SmellyGravy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Sure, this is the card i'm looking at, seams to have DP1.2 HDMI 1.4 and DVI CEX with this Adapter

The gt1030 is a good shout though not too far over my budget, i wonder which is the most powerful.

u/glanfr · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

Well of course not! :-)

I was just trying to point out that the concept already exists.

So with an alternate adaptor like this one and ear buds like these (all though these look like crap) you could do what this crowd funded thing is trying to do now.

u/telos0 · 2 pointsr/WindowsMR

A few other things:

As others have mentioned, the Odyssey's tracking relies on the room having enough light for the cameras to see.

While the Vive works great in total darkness, you have to remember to turn on the lights at night to make the Odyssey track.

And one other thing I should mention is that the cable is a bit short on the Odyssey, I had to buy some extension cables from Amazon to be comfortable I wouldn't accidentally yank out or break the connectors.

I went with these:


u/justherefortheusers · 1 pointr/ultrawidemasterrace

I think this might be the way to go for the laptop / monitor.


Honestly thinking of just dumping the gaming rig and using the laptop only. Its got an i7 and can do eGPU. ThinkPads are pretty cool. Thats another project though. I might try this DP to HDMI I liked for this project.

u/BaltazarDZ · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Display Port accepts digital signal input with backward compatibility to HDMI which is also a type of digital interface. The specs on your GPU say that it supports up to 4096 x 2160 digital resolution so you won't have any troubles GPU wise. You might need a different converter though. I linked that one just for illustration purposes.

There are several models out there so you certainly should be able to find one that fits your need in a nearby shop or online.

Edit: Added link.

u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/oculus

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:


Want to remember to smile? Bookmark this link!

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

u/delrazor · 1 pointr/Nexus6P

Also check out the Techmatte mini to C adapters on amazon. They are tiny and just slip onto your normal chargers you're used to. They won't charge any faster or anything, but they are Benson approved and they are pretty grippy when they go on, so you shouldn't have to worry about it popping off.

Charged mine last night with an older blackberry blade AC charger and the adapter on it. Worked just fine, no heat up or anything.

here's a link

u/BluJayM · 3 pointsr/WindowsMR

I've been thinking about doing something like this.

As for the HDMI/USB extension, I have an Odyssey and have been using the 6 foot versions of these things with pretty great results so far:



However, I've heard that going longer than something like 10 feet requires an active cable, but I don't know the specifics of it.

u/dweekie · 1 pointr/Surface

Well, a little late to the discussion. Just want to point out that I have had good luck with the Plugable adapter for 4k 60hz HDMI 2.0 output to a 4k TV if somebody needs that functionality. There aren't too many options for this capability.....


u/deadhawk12 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I guess so, sure; it just seems like it'd give you more variety in gameplay in the future.

If you ever want to try it out, I personally just ordered this extension cable after numerous recommendations from the /r/oculus community for like $18 CAD. :)

u/grafixcoder · 2 pointsr/oculus

That adapter won't work. The cheap ones only support lower resolutions under 1080p at 60 Hz. You need an active 4K capable adapter that can drive 90Hz like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8

u/shopineer · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

I would try to get at least an i3 CPU and a 1080p screen if you want something cheap that still has a decent performance. I think VGA ports are getting rare, but maybe you can get an adapter like [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-HDMI-Adapter-Black/dp/B00879DM56) for example?

What about the [Acer Aspire E 15 E5-575-33BM] (https://shopineer.com/laptops/Acer-Aspire-E-15-E5-575-33BM-15-6-Inch-Full-HD-Notebook)?

  • 7th Generation Intel Core i3-7100U Processor
  • 15.6"
  • 1920 x 1080
  • 4 GB RAM
  • 1 TB HDD
  • Intel HD Graphics 620
  • Windows 10
  • 12 hours battery life
  • 5.27 lbs.

    It also has a backlit keyboard and an optical drive. You can quite easily upgrade RAM later on if required.

    This latest gen Kaby Lake CPU / integrated graphics should be more than enough for general use.
u/RossaF1 · 1 pointr/xboxone

It does, but I did some research on this recently and it's important to get the right cable.

If your monitor has a DP++ input, you can use a normal "passive" adaptor/cable. This means the monitor can handle the conversion from HDMI to DisplayPort.

If it doesn't, you need an "active" adaptor which has a chip inside it that handles the conversion. Something like this

I never ended up needing to buy an adaptor myself, but yeah, that's what I found when I looked into it.

More info here: https://www.startech.com/au/faq/displayport_converter_dp_multi_mode

u/Arden144 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

That converter is not capable of 4k60fps. It's passive and uses DP++ to convert, which only supports 1920x1200. You need an active packet conversion cable to do this

Edit: This is the adapter I use for my TV

Plugable Active DisplayPort to HDMI 2.0 Adapter (Supports displays up to 4K / UHD / [email protected]) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00S0C7QO8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_D9A9Bb4JTCXSK

u/oshare_banchou · 1 pointr/hometheater

1: I recommend going for a VGA-HDMI like this one.

2: I've researched a bit and it seems the brand you have is good. I recommend replacing the bulb. No other repairs should be needed if the bulb is just burnt out; if other repairs are needed, then go ahead and scrap it.

u/jphlips1794 · 0 pointsr/oculus

A little late on this, but with all the unhelpful comments i think I can add something.
Are you using a USB extension for your headset? Because what you're experiencing is the USB disconnecting. NOT an HDMI issue. The reason you still hear audio is because your HDMI works fine. The screen blacks out because it loses power. The app (and steam) automatically shuts off when you unplug the headset sometimes. It restarts itself because it senses the USB again.

The USB is probably losing connection due to either a power surge or power inefficiency. I would check the headset itself to make sure the cable is plugged in snugly to the slot.

If you're not using an extension, try putting your headset USB on the PCI USB 3.0.
Some motherboards can start having issues with USB not reading correctly. Happened to one of my other towers.

If you are using an extension, buy this one instead. It's the most consistent for everyone that's tried it, including myself.

Lastly, you could try a complete fresh install of windows. Make sure your windows drivers are totally up to date, and that the MOBO USB's aren't losing connection (you can look in the logs for specific USB slots under device manager to see if they have problems)

Hope this helps!

EDIT: someone said something about USB selective suspend, that is definitely something you should turn off. Go to power options>advanced settings>USB and turn selective suspend off

u/PhoenixReborn · 1 pointr/buildapc

I believe it should work but if your display supports dvi that would be a lot better. https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMV7RL2

u/simoniz0r · 1 pointr/Ubuntu

What CPU? Most of Intel's iGPUs are limited to 4k @ 30Hz over HDMI (lame, I know). You'll more than likely have to get a display port -> HDMI adapter. Make sure it's one that supports 4k @ 60Hz; there's only a couple out there right now.

Here's a Display Port -> HDMI adapter on Amazon that has decent reviews and supports 4k @ 60Hz

:EDIT: Example: I7-7700T only supports 4k @ 60Hz over Display Port; it's limited to 24Hz through HDMI

Max Resolution (HDMI 1.4)‡
[email protected]

Max Resolution (DP)‡
[email protected]

Max Resolution (eDP - Integrated Flat Panel)‡
[email protected]

u/mikael110 · 1 pointr/techsupport

While I have not done something like this myself I would think simply buying a HDMI splitter like this to split the signal and an active HDMI to VGA adapter like this to connect it to the VGA monitor should work fine.

u/roofoof · 7 pointsr/oculus

This is why I was thinking it would have been nice if we created a list from the start where we compile what hardware works and what doesn't, both for USB cables, and HDMI, and motherboards too.

But in any case, if it's useful, these work for me:



u/virtueavatar · 1 pointr/Vive

Be aware that there is such a thing as an "active adapter" and a "passive adapter". The cheaper ones are likely passive ones - they will be unlabelled and will not work.

You need an active adapter.

u/Redditenmo · 1 pointr/buildapc

>My main card is a 1080 Ti, could I use the DVI from that card plus the 3rd displayport?

That gives you an even better option, use the hdmi 2.0B ports, each is capable of HDR 4k output, look for an adapter for them, eg, something like this.

u/hacklego · 1 pointr/Dell

Hi there again (4 months later),

The problem was not the usb type-c neither GNU/Linux. The problem was the Dell DA200 adapter, so after researching I found a lad who bought a cabblematters adapter and it worked perfectly. If anyone is interested here it is the solution: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Multiport-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01C316EIK

u/FOV360 · 1 pointr/oculus

Depending upon your computer placement you may not need any.

The 2 front sensors that I have plugged into USB3.0 only need to be 6 to 8 feet apart, slightly more if you want to push the limits. If you need an extension for one of them you should use a 3.0. My computer is off to the side so I used a 10 foot extender by Cable Matters for the far front sensor.

I have seen people mention they used all 2.0 with good results though. Since you ordered 2.0 already you might as well give them a try.

The rear corner sensor has a USB 2.0 /16 feet extension cable included so it was able to be routed outside the perimeter my play space to where I needed it.