Testing new things, I need your help.

> /r/theydidthemath has a neat 'points' system that I feel would be super awesome to have in our Daily Simple Questions thread. If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

> This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. I don't know what these points will be used for or if this feature will be a permanent thing. This is where you come in. If there's a good response and it works like I want it to, this could be a great way to incentivize people helping.

Now, get out there and help some people!

-\/u\/eegras

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In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread. There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

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> I have a 1TB HDD for mass storage (and 128gb for OS), being the PC enthusiast that I am, I want to run on SSD only storage from this point on.
> I want to get a 500GB SSD (750 EVO) this month, and the coming few months 1 SSD of 500Gigs at a time.
>
> Is this a smart idea or am I better off saving money for 1 big 1TB or 2TB SSD?
>
> In the netherlands, the 750 EVO 500GB is around 120 euros

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p6jnr

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> I've just installed Windows 10. What are some things that I should remove? I found this thread but it's like a year old so I don't know if the same things still apply https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3f10k0/things_to_removedisable_in_windows_10/

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p5ss4

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> hello
> i've got a problem with my pc but i'm not sure what it is
> my setup is
> 970 gtx
> i5 4590
> 2x8gb ram
> b85 mb
> anyway, its nothing unusual
> When i play overwatch on high settings my pc turns off after really short duration of playing. I don't get any fps drops or any weird things going. Same happend in word of tanks beta hd.
> Ive got OCZ 600W stealth stream 2 PSU, the power seems to be enough but as far as i looked for answers everyone says its psu. When i did a stress test in furmark it didn't turn off, my psu is a bit older then rest of my pc.
> Is there a way to check if its psu or any other component failing?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p5iyg

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> Are there any really clear UV reactive dyes I could use for my system? I just have clear distilled water in my loop but I'd love for it to also be UV reactive without making it also colored.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7opu5s

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> What's an, or some, ideal rectangular tables for this space right here: http://i.imgur.com/y6KBwP1.jpg
> As you can see it's a pretty garbage table and I'm willing to get rid of it as quick as possible, as well as organize the things on the table.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oni4l

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> Anyone know if the AM1M-A board supports hot-swapping?
>
> Also - how do you set a particular drive to be marked as external? is it done by the bios or os?
> Thanks

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7ojsn9

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> Sata power cable on this CX 500 is too fat to be able to plug into the SSD, any recommendations on extensions?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oe85n

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> Good place for buying custom sized mousepads?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7odl76

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> Where is AMD Catalyst Control Center saved by default? I want to overclock my monitor and can't figure it out.
>
> Edit. Advanced settings through AMD Preferences.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oc2w8

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> EA is asking me to verify my game (BF4) but when i bought it didnt come with a verification code since i bought via origin store, is this normal?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o8bmp

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> so I own the Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case and I really want my setup to start going a color theme or something like that do I need to buy a new case with a window. Im kinda wanting to go black and red a little because of my brand new HyperX Cloud 2s any one have suggestions? Is there anything I can do to my current setup to make it start following a theme? here is my current build PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
>
> Type|Item|Price
> :----|:----|:----
> CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $110.99 @ SuperBiiz
> Motherboard | MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $55.99 @ SuperBiiz
> Memory | Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $35.98 @ Newegg
> Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.89 @ OutletPC
> Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card | $220.00
> Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Newegg
> Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $43.49 @ SuperBiiz
> Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $0.00
> Monitor | Samsung 2333T 23.0" Monitor | $100.00
> Keyboard | Razer BlackWidow Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard | $145.28 @ B&H
> Headphones | Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset | $91.99 @ Newegg
> Other| Tax| $60.00
> Other| Dell Premium 6-Button USB Laser Scroll Mouse J660D| $0.00
> | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
> | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $979.60
> | Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
> | Total | $964.60
> | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 14:53 EDT-0400 |

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o6g5c

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> http://pcpartpicker.com/list/46wfyf
> Will these parts fit in the case? It's a Mini ITX build.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o5liu

----

> Is it better to use a fan splitter cable like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ that connect directly to the board or get direct PSU fan cables/passthroughs like this https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVYPBTJHZB4KKFH4C2HJ to add more fans than there are mobo fan headers? (Note: I'm not sure if either brand is reliable and will do research on what company makes the best of those cables)
>
> Also, why are LED fans cheaper than non LED fans?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o5aw2

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> I'm using my mouse with a bungee cord (for cable management) and the mouse cable is developing a small kink. Any tips for straightening these out?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o4ngp

----

> I am using an NZXT Grid V2 fan controller, does anyone know if I have to actually be running CAM in order for my fan profiles to be active?
>
> And does anyone have any recommendations for a monitor mount/stand for a 27 and 24 inch pair of monitors?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_152016/d7o0x4k

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User | Points
-----|-------
Trazac | 14
Flying_Spaghetti\ | 7
thatgermanperson | 6
rehpotsirhc123 | 6
Xolandi | 3
TehThyz | 3
saldytuwas | 2
ImpatientPedant | 2
ITXorBust | 2
Buxton_Water | 2
iiNt3rV3nTiiOnZ7 | 2
Sayakai | 2
Rivin2e | 2




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I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot

I'll add my experience as well since I just went through this Friday (and I'm also a scala guy, who recently came from a mac). I'll add a quick note that my primary goal with the dual boot is to use Windows for occasional gaming and Linux as my primary driver 99% of the time.


a) I wiped the supplied windows and reinstalled windows clean. I thought about keeping the install, but a couple screens into the setup was a Mcafee screen with my email address pre-populated and noped right out of there and wiped the disk. I think with Windows especially it's valuable not having to deal with all the pre-installed software. All the drivers are available here:


http://www.dell.com/support/home/us/en/19/product-support/product/xps-15-9560-laptop/drivers


I recommend downloading them all and throwing them on a usb as the wireless card doesn't work out of the box in windows, just run all the installers after the install. Before running the install, I recommend disabling secure boot and setting the hard drive to 'ahci' in the BIOS, otherwise the installer won't be able to see the disk.


b) I also have a 1tb hard drive and decided on a new 50/50 split between the two operating systems. Games are very large, so I wanted plenty of space for my windows install, additionally my previous linux install only had about 250gb, so I know I won't have any issues with disk space. However, depending on your uses this may vary.


c) You can read & write the ntfs drive just fine, however I personally don't like sharing underlying file systems between operating systems. I use a combination of dropbox and git, however I have almost no use cases that require any meaningful sharing of data between the two operating systems.


d) I use arch linux personally with XMonad. Arch linux is nice because you always get pretty up to date software and it allows you easy access to most software via the AUR. Since your a functional guy like me, you may enjoy XMonad which is configured using Haskell. At the start there is a steep learning curve, but in the end you end up with a highly customized window manager that you can bend to your will in any way you wish. Otherwise I'd recommend using XFCE or Mate, both of which are lightweight. I personally don't care for unity or gnome 3 at all.


e) cool, me too


f) Some general notes I'd add:

• I'd recommend disabling secureboot in the bios and setting the hard drive to 'ahci'
  
  
  
• If you have a HiDPI monitor, I'd recommend buying a usb-c to DP adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485869850&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+c+dp+adapter+cable+matters
  
  
  
• UEFI isn't especially difficult to handle using either refind or grub, I recommend installing windows first and using the existing efi partition as your boot partition.
  
  
  
• Install bumblebee on your system to manage selectively using the discrete nvidia gpu. It works by allowing you to use a special launcher to launch an app powered by the nvidia card, otherwise it leaves the video card powered off to save power. It's very simple to install and use.
  
  
  
• The brightness of the screen has a huuuge impact on battery life, so much that decreasing the display brightness by half nearly doubles battery life. Luckily, the display is very bright and even running at 20% brightness is still plenty bright for regular use.
  
  
  
• Other than using the discrete video card, everything works extremely well out of the box on linux, so regardless of which way you decide to go, you shouldn't have too difficult of a time ahead.
  
  Good luck! If I think of anything else I'll add it.

So far as I can tell all those parts are compatible. However I'd look into maybe getting a different motherboard. The one you picked is fine, but if you'd be willing to pay an extra $25 you could get this one. It's got 4 slots for RAM instead of two, for a maximum of 32gb instead of 16. It also has support for USB 3.0, and SATA 6gb/s. That HDD you picked does 6.0gb/s, but your mobo only has 3.0gb/s so you wouldn't be fully utilizing that it.

As for the USB 3.0, that mobo I listed has two ports on the back, but also an internal connector for the front pannel of the case. However the case you picked doesn't have USB 3.0 ports, so you might look into getting one that does. This is the case I'm using. After the mail-in rebate it's a little cheaper than the one you listed, and it has two USB 3.0 ports on the front which is nice.

However, if you do decide to get that case and that mobo I should warn you about a few things. If not, then disregard this paragraph. First of all, the four fans that come with the case are really nice in terms of air flow, but that mobo has nowhere to plug them in, so you'll have to plug the fans directly into the PSU instead. That's not a big deal or anything, but you'll need to buy an adapter to do that. PSU plugs are called molex, and the fan plugs are just called three-pin (although some fans use four-pin etc.) I went to my local Microcenter because I didn't want to wait for shipping (didn't discover this until mid build), and they had one that was four 4-pin to one molex, which was perfect. It should look something like this, (the molex is the bigger plug, and the three-pin is the smaller one). Try and see if you can't find one that doesn't have an extra molex on it, and has extra three-pins just so you have less cable in there. Also, that case isn't ideal for mounting SSD, because of where it places the 2.5" mounts (won't affect you since you don't have a SSD). It was also a bit hard to install the optical drive in the top 5.25" slot simply because you have to push in two pegs on the side to remove the 5.25" panel, but there are little plastic things in the way of the very top one. I had to bend the panel a bit to get them out (also not a big deal, because you'll probably end up throwing that panel away afterwards anyway).

Also, don't just take my word for it. When you've modified your build, or decided that the one you have is good, make a new post so more people see it. I'm not the best in terms of giving advice on the best bang for your buck in terms of GPU and CPU, and others could help you there. ALtough i do have almost that same CPU. I've got the intel i3 2120. Here's my build in case you were wondering.

**EDIT*** Ok, so here is the exact cable I was talking about. Microcenter says they are out of stock, but you get the idea of what I was talking about.

Biggest question I have is why two desktops?

I can't speak to the room layout since you need those doors. However, If your monitors have the ability and you use both gaming machines yourself, I personally would do the following:

• Move both desktops to a location off the desk top. Say, on the far left side. We're going to be scooting you slightly to the right anyway so there's no problem. You can put one outside the desk leg and one inside if they fit that way. You could even stack them if you think the Corsair can take it. Either way, I suggest putting the laptop on top of them like you do now
  
• Install Synergy+ or a related free software to use one keyboard/mouse for all three machines if you can install it on your work laptop. That lets you get rid of one keyboard/mouse and you can potentially keep your laptop plugged in to your system all the time depending on your monitors. However, the one on the far right looks like an Asus VE247h or similar and it has three inputs. You're only using HDMI and you can use an HDMI to DVI adapter to use another. Then you have input control at your fingertips.
  
• Go triple-monitor. Put your 27" in the middle and the two 24"s on the sides. You have the space for it. This leaves your right hand side (writing side) for arm support or handwritten notes. Yes, I see that paper pad and tablet there.
  
• Wire up whatever combination of the computers to monitors you can. For example, monitors 1 and 2 go to gaming computer 1 and laptop and monitor 3 is always on desktop 2. That or some combination thereof, depending on your laptop's capability (psst: you can use a USB to HDMI video card to extend if you need or want it. I use 2 of them for my work laptop for 4 total screens. There are USB to other output adapters too)
  
• Ideally, get arms for your monitors. That'll get them off your desk, give you room for your mouse/keyboard/speakers, and enable you to hide cables easier. I have these and they work pretty well if you don't move your monitors much.
  
• Now cables and peripherals. Use either double sided tape or screws to mount your power strips under your desk at the back. Same with the Arris. You don't need those on your table. Sinice you're an Ikea guy, grab some cable baskets and put them under there too. That lets you run your extra cables out of sight.

Thanks for the help. Hoo boy, this PC stuff really makes my head spin. So let me get this straight: the PASSIVE Insignia Display Port to HDMI Adapter that I'm currently using (links below) that says on the box that is only capable of 4096 x 2160P@30hz, is ACTUALLY capable of passing 60+fps to both my Oculus Rift or my Samsung 4K TV? Even though it says it's 30hz? Meanwhile, the Gofanco ACTIVE adapter that says capable of 4K @60Hz is actually going to be worse for what I'm trying to do?

I'd appreciate your input on this, since I ordered the Gofanco to replace the Insignia since I felt like I'd get better performance from my 4K TV if I did.

Insignia Passive Adapter Link: https://www.amazon.com/Insignia-NS-PD94502-InsigniaTM-DisplayPort-to-HDMI-Adapter/dp/B00RI981FM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504564282&sr=8-1&keywords=insignia+displayport+to+hdmi+adapter

Gofanco Active Adapter Link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ6UT21/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The OSSC is the best and probably most affordable solution and works 100% fine with a cheap Active DVI/HDMI to VGA converter. I have the one below.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1487897614&sr=1-3&keywords=dvi+vga+active

It offers lag free upscaling at 2x, 3x, 4x, or 5x(1600x1200!) with the latest firmware. I's pretty incredible with the clarity you can get on 240p at 5x. I have mine setup to a HP p1130 (rebranded Sony Trinitron) for SNES, Genesis, Saturn, Xbox, and Wii using SCART and component where applicable. I then use my Dreamcast w/ VGA box and XBox 360 w/ VGA cable on the second input.

Don't waste your time with a Gnobes GBS-8200/8220. They don't properly process 240p (it considers it 480i material), end up with a lot of artifacts, and uses a scaler that introduces lag as well. Supposedly using a SLG will mask the visual issues a bit, but it still isn't ideal and once you add in the SLG to the GBS-8200 cost and cable adapter you start to get pretty close to a used XRGB2/3. I started out with a GBS-8200 but wasn't happy with the quality.

Ideally I'd try to get on the list to buy an OSSC. Another good option is a used XRGB2 or XRGB3 (B1mode) in line-double mode which takes 240p and outputs in 480p without introducing any lag. They work about as well as the OSSC, but can't do the higher integer multipliers that the OSSC can. I have an XRGB3 that I got before I was up on the OSSC purchase list and it was just as effective on a VGA monitor. Your only issue might be finding one, but they pop up on ebay and shmups forum for sale section from time to time. They could be less than an OSSC if you find a deal.

As for the 486 keyboard adapter, the larger old AT connector is compatible with the smaller and newer PS/2 keyboard connector. Adapters are available in most of the usual places for about $6.

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Din5-Keyboard/dp/B0016RTMQE/

ISA sound blaster card I would recommend eBay. If you want a genuine ISA sound blaster, you can go with pretty much any of them from the original 8-bit all the way to an AWE64 model. Prices will vary based on type and model. Perhaps around $20 shipped. If you don't need an actual sound blaster but are good with any number of the clones, those will probably be much cheaper.

The same thing will be true for an ADB keyboard and mouse. Ebay would be my recommendation, or perhaps craigslist. Perhaps around $25 + S&H.

A good tip, if you're not familiar with it, is to check the 'sold' listings on eBay. Those will give you a good idea how much something is worth before you go bidding on it or buying it on craigslist.

Correct. There are various models of the fan and their controllers - I've found. The AZMtronics fans (pretty much the same fan, different board) connected via molex, but the board allowed for 2 fan settings (high and low). There is a 4pin OUT header...but that seems to be for if you wanted to connect an RGB LED strip rather than a 4pin connection.

Correct about the reset switch on the tower. The board transforms that switch's input to change the light setting...aka - red, blue, green, or pulse, or gradual color change, or off (I think there are just 5 presets total). Sidenote - that works because I'm using it now haha.

And yes, I agree - MOLEX cannot adjust speed. But what I was wondering was that IF I did NOT have a fan header in the LED system's board, can the molex connector be connected to an adapter that CAN control the fan speed?

AKA...would something like [this work...]
(https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1498778736&sr=8-7&keywords=molex+fan+header)

Molex from fans connects to adapter. Adapter pin connects to mobo. Other molex goes to PSU? Do I have this right?

So I found these puppies.

HDMI 2.0 15ft https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DI8A3HQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then the DP to HDMI Adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ6UT21/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both get great reviews and the DP to HDMI adapter says it supports 4k@60hz and the HDMI cable is 2.0 Also the DP adapter does support audio output as well. I WAS hoping to find a one cable solution but I think at the moment as you said it's better to play it safe and get what I need in 2 then later go for a one cable solution.

About $35 bucks total doesn't seem so bad.

Listening to the Cobalt now. It's probably better if one has no experience with the Dragonfly Red. Since I haven't used the DFR, I'm a good candidate to have a better experience with the Cobalt.

The exterior containment (chassis?) and the logic board are not attached to each other, so there's some movement of the - chassis? - wiggling. Doesn't seem to affect anything in my use. The 3.5mm jack and USB port are both solid and have no give - unless you compare it to the wiggling chassis. While the concern over this wiggle seems overblown to me, I also understand why the concern is justifiable. It seems like a problem that could have been avoided by better or more exact measuring.

Getting low enough volume is an issue, because I have to carefully manually adjust the volume to slightly less than the first step on both Android and iOS. It's a minor concern. This is something I have to do with the (fake) Beyerdyanmic Xelento and Alclair Electro. Less so with the iSine 10, which I can tolerate one more step. Oddly enough, I can adjust the volume higher with the IMR R2 Aten. I also tried the Cobalt with Monoprice Monolith M1060 V1, and was able to get to a good volume for me. No clipping, but as a low volume listener, I'm not going to be pushing it with my gear.

I like the Cobalt well enough, but will probably sell it eventually. Is it worth the retail price? No. I probably couldn't tell it from a volume matched iPhone dongle (I'm not joking). Fortunately, my confirmation bias has set in, so I'll be using it for a bit. Currently happily streaming Tool's 10,000 Days from an iPhone through the Cobalt to the R2 Aten. Listened to Lateralus twice with the same combo. To Cobalt's credit, it doesn't get very warm, even in my pocket for all that time. Still, don't think I'll be recommending the Cobalt to friends I want to keep. Certainly not at retail price.

Oh, I also used this Amazon Basics USB-C to USB adapter and found no difference between that and the Dragontail except color, size, and shape. Seems to be an adequate alternative for me.

Just get one of the basic adapters like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01K51GM46/

I can't promise that that particular adapter will work well, as sometimes individual adapters have minor variations that cause issues, but several people mention it working well with the Rift S.

The odds of any particular one are good since they're not "active" adapters, they don't regenerate, translate or convert the signal. They're just physical adapters connecting the right pins. All the smarts is in the software on your computer and device.

The expensive ones you're seeing are usually for some other type of conversion where they have to do an active conversion, or act as a display adapter where there is none (like connecting HDMI over USB 2.0).

I'm not too well versed in VirtualLink, I believe it's a working group or committee standard developed by multiple companies, of which Valve is one. It's unlikely that anyone would be contractually required to use any port. The companies just work together to develop a standard that they're all comfortable using, and then they use it because they think it's beneficial. Sometimes it doesn't work out that way, sometimes a particular standard has too many issues and doesn't really catch on until version 2, sometimes they're just abandoned entirely for technical or non-technical reasons.

No VR headsets require VirtualLink, DP via DP, Thunderbolt or USB-C 3.1 Gen2 ports should support them all.

Is it better to use a fan splitter cable like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ that connect directly to the board or get direct PSU fan cables/passthroughs like this https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVYPBTJHZB4KKFH4C2HJ to add more fans than there are mobo fan headers? (Note: I'm not sure if either brand is reliable and will do research on what company makes the best of those cables)

Also, why are LED fans cheaper than non LED fans?

Hi Microsoft specifically recommends these adapters:

USB 3.0 Type C to HDMI (with Thunderbolt 3 support):

• Plugable USB-C to HDMI 2.0 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727QQLV2 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FIVSC6Y)
  
• Accell USB-C to HDMI 2.0 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FIVSC6Y)
  
• Microsoft USB-C to HDMI 2.0 adapter (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076KRFB8X)
  
  Source:
  https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4039260/windows-10-mixed-reality-pc-hardware-guidelines
  
  I think the headset cables are long enough to reach to the other side of the laptop to plug into the USB 3.0 A port - but a 3-foot USB 3.0 extension cord would be OK to use to optimize cable management. Keeping the adapters simple is probably a good bet as USB-type-C compatibility is ironed out. I recommend staying away from cheap, off-brand multi-function usb-type-C hubs that have hdmi+ethernet+usb ports all-in-one.

Well, the reviews look OK on that one. What I do on Amazon is I use the review search feature to search for "MacBook Pro" in the reviews to see what people's experiences are with it. Seems like a safe order since Amazon should let you return it if something is wrong.

I forgot to include the adapter links you asked for. There are two kinds. One is a very compact adapter that is cheap and easy to carry around:

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/

The disadvantage is the USB-A end can be so wide that it blocks the adjacent port. To solve this is another type is on a short cable to get the wide USB A-part away from the laptop body.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074DRG8RR/

As you can see these are often sold now in 2-packs for less than USD$10. Both kinds are so cheap I got a pair of both, so I have one of each type at the desk and one of each type in my bag.

Note that those adapters support USB 3 gen 1 at 5 Gbit/sec. This is fine for most things. But if maximum speed data transfers are a high priority (for example external SSD with USB 3.1 Gen 2 port), you could spend a little more to make sure you have adapter cables supporting the full 10 Gb/sec speed of the USB 3.1 Gen 2 ports on a current MacBook Pro.

All the new docks that support Thunderbolt 3 and device power in one cable seemed like they were not out yet (and are expensive), so I went for a "cheap dock" solution. You can get a Thunderbolt 3 to Displayport adaptor like this for $20: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481764413) . If your display supports Display Port out you should be able to Daisy Chain from Display 1 to Display 2 with just another Display Port cable. I also picked up a USB-C to Ethernet adaptor $17: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-Ethernet/dp/B00X4S587K/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1481764546&sr=1-5) . My monitor has a USB-A hub in it, so a $9 USB-A to USB-C adaptor from Apple allowed me to hook that up and gain 5 legacy USB ports. Anyway, it was about $46 dollars and it working great for me. My only problem has been I picked up a Display Port to DVI cable to try and daisy chain my second monitor and it isn't working.

I just tried it with my Acer ET322QK and the Club3D Display Port 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 active adapter, and it didn't work. I might try to mess around with the settings on the X, but I'm pretty sure it's a no go.

They do make a newer version of the adapter that supports HDR and Displayport 1.4 if anybody is interested in trying it, but it does state on the product page that the source system must support display port, so seems unlikely.

https://www.amazon.com/Club3D-Displayport-1-2-HDMI-CAC-1070/dp/B077JB28KM?th=1

Cool cool, 1xDVI 2x DP. What you can do with this is pick up an HDMI-DVI adapter like this one and slap it into the HDMI output of the card. Bob's your uncle, now you're running.

e: if you have to, you can go to Best Buy, but I wouldn't recommend it because Best Buy is terrible. MicroCenter and Frye's are your best bets, followed by Amazon/Newegg.

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EE-PW700BWEGUJ-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B01DN09RYI/

It's on the pricey side, but I'm actually using this Samsung adapter for my Asus C302. Great for USB A and for HDMI. Both work like a charm.

> At the moment I'm just using the explorer on my phone to download from Drive, then copy to Music from Downloads. It's tedious as hell (especially since I'm super anal about songs being in folders by artist, and afaik I can't copy full folders, just files) so if there's a better way I'm all ears!

I have many, many, gigs of music organized in folders by artist, and then subfolders by album, so I feel your pain! It seems like you have figured a lot of this out, but I'll share my thoughts regardless. Hope they help.

I have never used a chromebook, but they are cloud-based aren't they -- there are no actual files on your chromebook, just in the cloud on Drive? If so, that is the source of your problem because you can't drag/drop folders from Drive (as far as I know). Going one by one, even multi-selecting in folders, will take forever.

The easier way is to get the files on a computer (in folders) and then use either a USB cable or an app like Superbeam to move entire folder structures. Note also that if you have the files on a USB drive you can plug the drive directly into your phone and use the phone (you will need an adapter like this one). I keep all my music files on a 1 TB seagate drive, and I just plug the drive into my phone whenever I need to move some files onto my N5X.

If the only place you have your files is Drive, then I think there may be no way around the tedious file-by-file download.

Could my model M be converted to USB using one of these active adapters? It's a lexmark model M, part number 82G2383.

http://www.amazon.com/Ziotek-PS2-Keyboard-USB-Adapter/dp/B000BSJFJS

www.amazon.com/SANOXY®-USB-Active-Adapter-Electronics/dp/B000I97N1M

I was thinking that I could mount the converter inside the keyboard, wire up the PS/2 internally, mount a mini USB port to the outside of the case, then wire up the USB side of the adapter to it.

Has anyone used either of those two apaters? the SANOXY one is a lot smaller, and would probably be easier to fit in the case, but the Ziotek one is the only one I've heard of for the model M. Would my idea work? Has anyone tried it before? Is there enough room in the keyboards casing to fit either of the adapters?

Thanks!

I just got this nailed down myself. At first, I followed Wirecutter's recommendation and bought the Satechi Multiport Adapter. It's a beautiful dongle, and it worked great for display, but my USB keyboard and wireless mouse plugged into the USB A ports would not work.

Yesterday I received the Samsung adapter that is made for TabPro S, which was recommended by Chrome Unboxed. Works perfectly, but only has one USB A. I'm waiting on a keyboard I ordered so both that and my mouse will connect to one Logitech Unifying Receiver.

Not at all.

The USB-C port on the Apple TV is for servicing purposes only. Not for regular users to use.

Even if it was a fully functional USB-C port, USB-C isn't magic.

It will only support what the host device actually supports.

Currently, there are no USB-C to HDMI 2.1 dongles on the market.

However, even when they become available, I guarantee you will not be able to just plug them into the Apple TV and get HDMI 2.1.

You must have seen HDMI 2.0 dongles like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Compatible-Thunderbolt-Supports-Resolutions/dp/B01FIVSC6Y/

Dongles like this are not magic. They will not automatically work with any USB-C device. They will only work with devices that specifically support sending a HDMI 2.0 signal over the USB-C port.

The host device need to be electrically wired to do this. The Apple TV 4K is not.

Additionally, the graphics in the device need to be capable of outputting a HDMI 2.1 signal. The A10X in the Apple TV 4K is not capable of that.

VGA uses analog signal while most modern GPUs/displays only use digital signal.

For DVI, there used to be three main types - DVI-A for analog signal, DVI-D for digital signal and DVI-I which was able to transfer both analog and digital.

So what EVGA means is imho that there are many VGA to DVI-I or DVI-A adapters, but it won't work.

If you really want to do this, you need an adapter with an active electronic component that will convert the signal. Something like this - https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01FL7H7HA unfortunately, these things are finnicky so even an active convertor might not work properly.

Good chance its the adapter yea, you might have to do some more research and find an adapter that people have specifically used for the rift. VR is very sensitive to adapters and extenders so find a 4k 60hz capable one and you should be good. Heres one that has some good reviews from people using it with VR. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OQh6CbFB1T6SX

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102908

faster than the 550ti for $10 more after rebate

that hard drive is made for laptops, it'll work just fine but you'll need an adapter plate to get it to fit in the case

you're buying a previous generation CPU and motherboard, not a problem so i'm just letting you know. you can get an i5 3570k and a z77 motherboard for a little bit more if you're so inclined

the HAF 912 is a cheap case disguised with molded plastic, the NZXT source 210 elite is a better case in every way for around the same price

power supply is overkill and kinda expensive, the corsair CX430 is $22 after rebate and will power your PC just as well

any video card that has DVI out will be able to output to HDMI with an adapter that usually comes in the box. HDMI and DVI have the same pins, so adapter (if you don't get one) are like $1 online: link. won't output audio though, so you'll need a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable if you don't have one already

I bought this to use as a dock https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Delivery-Thunderbolt-compatible/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504580717&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=s8+hdmi+adapter&psc=1

But the switch doesnt seem to understand that it's supposed to output anything through the HDMI. To my knowledge, this is the exact same tech as the sfans dock and switchcon. With everything plugged in, the switch charges but it unfortunately doesnt try to display the image on the TV, and stays in handheld mode.

My current dock is busted and I know my switch is fine because it functions perfectly on other docks.

Can anyone help, please? I really can't afford to buy a new dock which is why I opted for this one.

That would probably work actually, and you're lucky in that the pi-zero can be backpowered thru the usb data port. AND it seems you can make it act like a gadget, which I didn't know.

https://www.rmedgar.com/blog/using-rpi-zero-as-keyboard-setup-and-device-definition

Making a portable hack gadget? Have fun with it.

Edit: I'd just make it into an A-type and use an adapter like this unless form factor is important. That way you can use it on A or C.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0

The description of your case implies that those are LED lighted fans that should be attached to the front panel fan control.

Are there any other connectors coming from where your power button is located?

You will only need those fans if you plan on running the PC 24/7 but I get that you want them working anyway.

*EDIT: If there are no additional connectors from your front panel, you would need something like this I guess, to attach your case fans to the 3pin fan connectors on your board. Make sure there are enough fan connectors on your board first.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but would a portable style dock like this be safer?

Since OP mentioned that one of the key flaws of the 3rd party docks is the non standard USB-C connector, this style that is not designed to be easy to slide in and out should be using a standard non custom USB-C connector.

I can't speak for the power negotiation part of this particular product though, just using it as an example of one that would fix the non standard connector part of the issue.

Just got this earlier this week and it works great: USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport Hub, USB-C (USB3.1) Adapter PD Charger for Nintendo Switch,Portable 4K HDMI Dock for Samsung Dex Station S10/9/8/Note8/9/Tab S4/S5,MacBook Pro/Air 2018,iPad Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.insDbSJHYSQW

I bought the official power supply from Walmart last week when it was $15.99. So for $43 I have a great second dock/travel dock solution.

Very little glare on the screen, I have never had much of a problem with it.

Three prong, but look what i found :D http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346621210&sr=8-1&keywords=3+prong+to+2+prong+adapter

Battery life is pretty good, nothing spectacular. I usually have it plugged in, but when unplugged and on "balanced" mode, I can get it to last several hours

If you were to pay, jsut do it through ebay, easiest

> I use wireless headphones how do I use them with the headset as many setup videos have recommend

you wont have to change anything and can just use your wireless headset as you do now. the headsets have a headphone jack but you are not forced to use it, the headset will just be an additional audio device in the sound control panel list like you probably have many other ones there already you dont use.

when you install the headset and software you may just have to select your wireless headset again as the default device.

the only other stuff you gotta think about as others have said here you will want to get the common pluggable brand bluetooth 4 adapter if you arent already covered and you also might want to check if your GPU's HDMI port is version 2.0 or earlier. earlier versions will either not work or limit you to 60hz instead of the 90hz the headset can do.

that was the issue when I got my lenovo MR headset I found my GPU was only HDMI 1.4 (radeon r9 290) so I had to get the Displayport to HDMI 2.0 adapter. (Club3D CAC-1080 Active DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.0b).

There may be an active DVI-D to VGA cable but I haven't looked in awhile, but a normal Active adapter should work - https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG

You were using a DVI Passive to VGA adapter which is why it doesn't work. Need an Active DVI-D to vga.

Alright, so just hook up the case fan directly to the motherboard and see if it can start up. Maybe the adapter is defective.

I should have been more specific, but I actually meant this kind of molex adapter.

You should be able to hook up the case fan to PWR/SYS fan header on the motherboard, if its the small 3 pin connector and it isn't necessary to use an adapter in this case to plug into the PSU.

If you need more help reply or PM me.

I was researching this a while ago, but finally ended up going to HDMI for my monitor instead. I saw that adapter under different brands. I found a company that claims they are the original maker of the adapter and they say to not buy it from a counterfeit seller. Not sure if their claims are true, but their version does come with a USB micro power plug for better compatibility. Here is the link.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco®-DVI-D-Active-Converter-compatibility/dp/B00RWFT8NG

/u/Taidaishar - if you're OK with two cameras, you might want to consider a [Blackmagic Web Presenter with a Teranex switch panel for $550] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X3W3HQS//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) instead of the Sling Studio.

You would also need a [$39 Blackmagic HDMI to SDI micro converter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077QQSP5N//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) because the Web Presenter has one HDMI and one SDI input.

[Here] (https://youtu.be/TFzFAZLSu_Y) is how a two-camera setup works with the Web Presenter and the Teranex.

That leaves you enough for a [$450 used Panasonic FZ1000] (https://www.amazon.com/Panasonic-DMC-FZ300K-Megapixel-2-3-inch-Dustproof/dp/B011PKJI2Y/ref=as_li_ss_tl?m=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&s=warehouse-deals&ie=UTF8&qid=1524049831&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20), which can give you results like [this] (https://youtu.be/tE3yFeQg6BI) in a broadcast/webcast setting.

When budget permits, you can get [relatively inexpensive J-Tech wireless HDMI transmitter/receivers] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071VCK1FG//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) to get rid of the cables.

Hope this is helpful and Godspeed!

> I'm all ears on how to plug a DVI cable into a HDMI port

Oddly enough, what the other guy didn't tell you, with his lifetime experience on working with computer hardware is that most of the DVI and HDMI protocols are shared. i.e. most of the time, the connector is irrelevant, just buy an adapter and turn one into another. Things like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00NH11X64/

But I never remember which end is male or female, if I had to guess, I think end of the HDMI cable is male. That would make the second one the better choice. But I really can't remember about the DVI end.

The tedious differences between DVI and HDMI should not matter to you (or to your needs at least). HDMI also carry sound, DVI can also include analog RGB signal (etc)

Also the max resolution that can be carried aren't only dependent on the cable, the GPU do have limitations of their own. I can't find the specs of the Radeon HD 4600, I don't know if it can push 1440p.

Now for the driver issue, you're gonna have to buy a box of donut or a handful of cupcake and nicely ask the network peeps to come and install the right driver for the card, since cupcakes are so good, they would be so kind :)

Yes you'll need an active adapter. Something like this.

You are correct in thinking that the cheap adapters don't work, that's because they rely on it being DVI-A with analog support, which the new cards don't have they are only DVI-D - digital only.

> I was connecting to a USB to HDMI

This sounds like you are using a DisplaLink device which is a USB driven graphics adapter (there is a lightweight gpu in the device that does the processing). While they are decent devices, you will get better performance and more supported resolutions if you run the HDMI straight off of the internal GPU via USB-C to HDMI directly. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/CAC-1504-Chromebook-Thunderbolt-Supports-3840x2160/dp/B016QO8186

Or this: https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-C-HDMI-Chromebook-Thunderbolt/dp/B01FIVSC6Y

Not saying that was for sure your issue but if you are doing presentations regularly I would suggest getting something like the above.

Did the fan come with the case? If so check the case box and you should find a Molex-adapter for the fan(something like this or like this) so it will run off the power supply. It'll be a bit louder but if the front fan is the same as the rear fan it will still be pretty damn quiet even at full blast, at least my Spectres were.

You'll need an [Active HDMI to VGA adaptor] (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Gold-Plated-Active-Adapter/dp/B007SM7O2U) for this to work, as HDMI doesn't output any analogue signal at all.

Edit: And if you're looking to play HDCP content like bluray through your laptop to a VGA monitor, you'll also need an active adapter with HDCP support, which the one I linked to doesn't have.

I don't see any problem for 5 years, unless there's a suddenly change in technology or trend. The progress of computer innovation has been slowing down lately.

It's highly unlikely that 8K video will become mainstream in 5 years. The 2018 MBA can handle 4K editing. Export time is definitely longer than a 2018 MacBook Pro, but honestly, I never just sit and wait for export, I use the time to go do something else.

Intel won't mass release any 10nm chipset until late 2019, and who knows if there'll be more delay. Even then, it will take another year or two to mature. There has been speculation that Apple may make Macbook with their own CPU. Even if that happens in a year or two, it will also take another year or two for software to maturely make the switch. Also, wifi6 is on the horizon, but ac isn't going away.

The USB-C ports on the MBA are also Thunderbolt 3 ports. When you need more performance out from the machine, you can always plug in a eGPU.

BTW, for moving onto USB-C, I bought a few USB-C to USB 3.0 adapters and just leave it attached to my devices and cables which I use the most.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Adapter-Transfer-Compatible-MacBook/dp/B078NKPGW9/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1549487928&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+c+to+usb+adapter+anker

Most desktops have a PS2 keyboard port and I have an adapter for that. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/PS/2_port

If you are using a laptop you may need an adapter to USB. https://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-USB-Active-Adapter-Electronics/dp/B000I97N1M

As far as the price is concerned, I actually prefer trades. I am just starting with mechanical keyboards as a hobby, so I could use some supplies (switches, caps, cables, etc) but also am into 3d printers, electronics, etc. If you rather do cash maybe $50 + shipping. I would rather meet up (I am in the Hillsboro area) than ship since it will not be cheap to ship due to size and weight (around 5lbs.)
Either way, you have to promise to treat it well and not gut it since it is a bit of a classic.

Note that it will have to be an active HDMI 2.0 adapter. Passive adapters will not work. I'm using a combination of a cheap USB-C to Displayport dongle and the Plugable Displayport to HDMI 2.0 active adapter (https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-DisplayPort-Supports-displays-3840x2160/dp/B00S0C7QO8) to drive a 43" 4K Samsung at 4K60Hz from my XPS 9350, and it works beautifully. There are a couple of combined adapters now available as well, which adapt directly from USB-C to HDMI 2.0 and should do the trick, though I haven't used any of them myself. Here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-DisplayPort-Incompatible/dp/B01K51GM46

Very cheap option: If you already have a BMDVA then you could use a consumer HDMI home transmitter depending on your room distance.

​

So your signal flow would go: Source->Cheap (maybe monoprice) SDI to HDMI converter -> HDMI Wireless transmitter -> HDMI Wireless Receiver -> HDMI cable from receiver into BMDVA.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Wireless-Supporting-Transmission/dp/B071VCK1FG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+wireless+transmitter+and+receiver&qid=1549747552&s=gateway&sr=8-3

To power the receiver in a wireless way you'll need power on the go. This provides 5v with the standard 5.5mm plug. Never put more than the rated amount of voltage into a device, or else white smoke magic will happen.https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Battery-Holder-Connector-Arduino/dp/B00O5AZI12/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=5v+5.5+battery&qid=1549747721&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Laggy option on the cheap: If you have a macbook get a BMD SDI Recorder : https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/ultrastudio, shove it into the macbook and OBS, and private stream over platform of your choice (Youtube/Twitch etc) and monitor with the Ipad wirelessy (as long as you have a house wifi network, or your own of course).Windows option: Elgato H60 is a piece of trash but does work.. most of the time. This option total would be around or less than $200. Hope that helps!

I have the exact same laptop and had the same issues as you mentioned. I almost gave up, but getting a good 4k mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter worked. Thanks!

The one I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDJFI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this specific ethernet adapter and this USB-C cable and it works great for me if that helps. I couldn't figure out why I was so much better at Splatoon 2 on handheld but terrible docked, so I bought the ethernet adapter to get the best connection in the meantime since I was playing more docked. Turns out it was ultimately TV input lag. New TV fixed that and I don't use the ethernet adapter often now, but it's nice to have an extra for the PC.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQM8586/

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TJN22C/

I personally don't think it would be a good thing to use two different graphic cards, consider one of them is just for your other monitor.

What I say you should do, and it's what im currently doing, is, to connect your main monitor (Acer), AND the 4:3 one to your GTX 970 card, it should have 2 DVI-D and 1 HDMI and 1 Display port input at the back. Get a VGA <-> DVI-D adapter, which is pretty cheap. This one for example Link. Or you could just go to a general electronics shop and get one for like 5$.

Properly transmitting the analog signal (what you get over coax) with reasonable quality isn't really possible on the free frequencies. Transmitting the full digital signal that HDMI carries over wifi isn't really possible either (you need 48Gbps or so).

So your options are two, one, for cable, you can capture the raw digital stream transmitted and send that over wifi. the HD Home Run will do that, it's only really good for cable/TV, but it works well, and gets you full quality with minimal cost, but the user interface is going to be a bit different (you need to access it via streaming on the TV, maybe with a firestick or similar). The HDHomeRun won't tune to analog streams if this is cable and it happens to have some, it also adds significant latency and won't do for games.

The second option is get an HDMI wireless converter, they are expensive, add significant lag (and are no good for gaming), and reduces the quality as it must recompress all video.

I use this one for my HP X2 1013 G3 - runs 4K @ 60 Hz via both Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C ports. Surface Book 2 is listed as supported on product page.


USB-C to HDMI Adapter Supporting 4K 60Hz (Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible)

Cable Matters USB C to HDMI Adapter Supporting 4K 60Hz & 60W Charging in Black - USB-C & Thunderbolt 3 Port Compatible for Samsung Galaxy S9/S9+, Galaxy S8/S8+, Galaxy Note 8, MacBook Pro and More

You need an active adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/CAC-1080-DisplayPort-Adapter-displays-4096x2160/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1525841546&sr=8-16&keywords=displayport+to+hdmi+4k+60hz

Like this.

The newest versions of DP can do 4k at 120hz. So yes it's bs.

Believe it or not, HDMI adapters work pretty well. I have one of these for my laptop and it works a treat.

Wireless HDMI

Do not have, zero idea of how well it works. But it is a place to start. Good luck.

Thanks. Will the use of two adapters increase latency? And would these work fine? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0016RTO1M/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SL500_SS115&simLd=1 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I97N1M?pc_redir=1406086026&robot_redir=1

'Best' probably involves a fancy RasberryPi setup, but I have found a process that works pretty well for me (based on advice posted here). I got a USB-A to USB-C adapter that goes directly into my phone. I have 'TeslaCam Viewer' on my phone and when I see that there are sentry events I review (and delete) them directly on my phone. That way clips don't pile up and if somebody hit the car I can potentially deal with it while they're still there.

You're going to need something like this then.

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG?th=1

The 1080 dropped support for VGA so you'll need an active adapter to convert the signal from digital to analog.

Yes there are. They're called DVI-D to VGA Active Adapters.

They look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480524729&sr=8-3&keywords=dvi-d+to+vga+active

There are passive dvi to vga adapters, however your graphics card might not support them. Check to see if your graphics card supports DVI-I or DVI-A. If it does support it then there will be no loss vs a VGA cable.

Here is one such adapter.



If your GPU only supports DVI-D (Digital) then you'll need a more expensive active adapter. There depending on the adapter, there will be some difference.

Here's a cheap version (and clicking on the usb power cable will point you to a more "compatible" and expensive one).

Yup I do this all the time when I travel. Sentio works pretty well and Project Linda was using it in their demos.
I use this dock. Just know there's no input so you'll have to connect to it with Bluetooth devices. There are some docks that have usb input. I just like to make sure it has power delivery too. I also mount the phone on a fan grip so it doesn't overheat.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KsBVCbPKA8D8Z

If you get a display port one, you can shoot 120 for into a high fps monitor too.

Yes, plug in an adapter like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GGKYYT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and route it under the Vive cable through the channel in the bottom, like this

https://ibb.co/epuHmn

If you aren't used to it you may not notice it, but after you use 60hz and switch back to 30hz it is very noticeable.

I picked up one of these to get 4k/60hz support and found it to be totally worth it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry if I am proving what seems like conflicting information. I checked 'System Information' and it tells me that I have a 'Surface Book 2' in the System Summary area.

I went to this: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4052030/surface-usb-c and it told me that I have a USB-C port.

So, I went to Amazon and bought this guy: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Obviously, my hardware isn't a Dell, but I took a chance that I could get a driver to make this work.

Does this clarify? I do appreciate any light you can shine on this.

Thanks.

Thousands of homes are still using older wiring from the 1960's and prior with only 2-prong outlets.

I wouldn't call it "unsafe" more like "slightly less safe" than modern 3-prong grounded outlets. You can use adapters like this to use 3-pronged plugs with these outlets.

No HDMI port... FYI.

~~Grab one of these for $2 + Free Shipping. Has good reviews as far as I can tell.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8~~

Edit: see below for proper connector

I use this adapter to use my phone as a portable workstation between work and home and, at least so far, it's been pretty flawless:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/

Not sure about this one supporting the switch, but this one that has worked great for me at $25

If you're using a controller with a standard USB plug (USB-A),which most USB controllers are, you'll need an adapter that's USB-A to USB-C adapter. The Switch Pro Controller for example uses a USB-C cable to connect as a wired controller, so you can use a USB-C to USB-C cable to connect it to the Switch in tabletop mode.

Edit: I'd actually be interested to see if something like this would work for using multiple USB wire controllers in table top mode.

Yes, something like this 3-pin to 4-pin molex adapter will do the trick. Note that this will only power the fan, though, and will not give RPM monitoring or control to the motherboard, so the fan will just run at full speed all the time.

I could be wrong but I think you can use it as a regular USB port too. It's just if you want to push video through it then that video is tied to your iGPU. For you case, it's just another, hopefully separate, USB bus to try. Not that you need to try it but something like this would give you one last option:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

Yes, you can on the 2016 MacBook. You can absolutely run 4K with a monitor that has built in USB-C.

There is even 4K 60Hz HDMI output with an active adapter and with power delivery passthrough.

Cable Matters makes one for about $25 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNS7W63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1ObFzb3PSYEB0

> LG 25UM55 21:9 monitor

Thanks for the in depth answer!

Unfortunately the monitor i have (http://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-29UM57-P-ultrawide-led-monitor) only has 2 HDMI ports so using a DisplayPort cable won't work. This adapter (http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters%C2%AE-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00K0UDJFI/ref=cm_cd_al_qh_dp_t) claims to support 4k displays so I will find out if this works in 2 days.

The laptop itself is a 13-inch, Mid 2012. Hopefully that isn't the issue.

Dude I saw that, I'd love to try that. So is this everything I need?
https://www.rcplanet.com/fat-shark-rc-universal-av-cable-with-90-prong-fsv2003_p/fsv2003.htm

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017TJN22C?ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00&redirect=true&psc=1&tag=viglink20264-20&pldnSite=1

Plus the app?

I accidentally bought a non active DP to HDMI and had the same issue you're having. Sent it back and got this one. Only asking because I made this mistake. Are you 100% sure it's an active one?

The only way I can think of to check 90Hz is to play a low quality video on DeoVR Video Player and have it display FPS. It should cap out at 90FPS if you're in 90Hz mode.

If you have to buy a new controller, at that rate you're better off with any number of the available bluetooth controllers that work without issue. Don't need to specifically get a Sony one unless that's what you're going for.

I'm with /u/rube though, you're not likely to find a C-to-mini ITG cable. Though you might find a C-to-A cable and just plug in a standard mini cable to it. Something like this one or this one.

So build a new PC that works great. I have dual monitors (GPU has 3 DP ports and 1 HDMI) so I have monitor going to DP and other to HDMI. I hooked up my TV to 3 port but needed to get a convertor from DP to HDMI so I bought this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MZ6UT21/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_KorLDbM1V5HX0

Weird thing is when I connect TV (even when TV is off). I notice lag on things on PC such as games. Immediately gone when unplugged.

Any one run into this? Should I use the convertor on 2nd monitor and hook up TV to straight HDMI or it's the problem with the active convertor I bought?

Thanks

Well, the power supply is a good brand, so that's another indication that the card might be bad.

Perhaps it could be that you're getting line noise from your ground. You can test this with a three to two adapter (or go to the dollar store, buy a cheap power strip, and break the ground prong off).

If the flicker is gone without the ground, it's definitely noise. You can run the monitors without a ground, but a line conditioner or UPS would be a better idea.

I bought a USB-C to USB 3.1 adapter, it works perfectly. I think it was $6 on amazon.


This is it - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=3PS19SDCM55G6&keywords=usb-c+to+usb+adapter&qid=1550622323&s=gateway&sprefix=usb-c+to&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

I have a USC-c adapter that works great for my switch. You just have to provide power to the adapter. Mine is made by Reaka and I got it from amazon. It was called a usb type c to HDMI adapter. it was 24 usd and is as small as any USB adapters. USBC Adapter

The 1060 does not support analog graphics at all, so the cheap, passive, DVI to VGA adapters won't work.

You need an active adapter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ or this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00879DM56/

That's a bit of a relief, I was not prepared to buy a new monitor.

Any kind of adapter would do? Kinda like this?

That will not work. All new RX-4xx and GTX 10x0 cards have removed VGA support, so they require active converter.

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA

Crap, replied to myself instead of you.

Port: http://h20195.www2.hp.com/v2/GetPDF.aspx/4aa6-9224enuc.pdf Page 3/5

Video showing HDR: https://1drv.ms/v/s!ArKGv9LOf89ctoFR5ATCPGDxBOQo2g?e=VzuB25

DisplayPort adapter used: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B077JB28KM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

EDIT: also, to clarify, my setup is Elitedesk 800 Mini G3 > CAC-1080 Displayport-HDMI Adapter > Amazon Basics high speed HDMI Cable > Onkyo TX 373 receiver > amazon basics high speed HDMI > Hisense 50" 4k HDR10 tv

Dammit, you're right, sorry.

Just checked my 1440p monitor with a cheap adapter, doesn't work above 1080p.. and it seems to be a limit of passive cables. I've found looking for apple accessories is cheaper, since they used mDP for years, this is a pretty cheap one with good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDJFI

I'm not sure if it can do 60fps for you though, since it's limited to 30Hz at 4K. Your monitor seems to have a Displayport connector, a mini Displayport to Displayport cable would probably be the better choice, since there's no need for an active component.

The Samsung galaxy Tabpro S adapter has a HDMI port and connects PERFECTLY to the chromebook plus https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-EE-PW700BWEGUJ-Tabpro-Multi-Port-Adapter/dp/B01DN09RYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496032746&sr=8-1&keywords=galaxy+tabpro+s+adapter

(Maybe it's your adapter not being truly compatible).... http://imgur.com/FWqxQZ9

I now have a Mayflash GC adapter. Works perfectly. If I were to use a USB Adapter like this one, which lets me use the Mayflash on handheld mode, will that brick my switch or cause any other problems?

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=asc_df_B01GGKYYT0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167151358503&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11534603015747563071&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9005488&hvtargid=aud-464976914866:pla-490647422152&psc=1


just get something like this, and keep it with your mouse, or like tape it onto your mouse cable

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

Such as this one

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

Sonofa... I just tried it last night and couldn't get it to work, and it definitely did on Android 6 (now on 7). I have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNS7W63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works like a champ on my Samsung S8+ so that could be an option, but now I need to figure out what happened to my Asus!

The easiest way to get a modern keyboard on this machine is to use a DIN to PS2 adapter, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Keyboard-Adapter-MiniDin6/dp/B0016RTMQE/

According to Newegg the DVI port is DVI-D with HDCP support, meaning an adapter like this one should work

you can buy them and since it's sounds like its created from the power go with a power ground lift not an xlr one. Here is an example of what it looks like from amazon.
http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Wholesale-Grounding-Converter-30W1-32200/dp/B000I96AUM/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0

But they are good for identifying the problem you can also try plugging it in someplace other than where you have tried I've used ground lifts before when having problems with ground noise.

You need an active adapter.

Something like this http://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Active-Female-Adapter/dp/B007SM7O2U

I think this is probably the best case for anecdotal information, because my adapter does work. USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport Hub, USB-C (USB3.1) Adapter PD Charger for Nintendo Switch,Portable 4K HDMI Dock for Samsung Dex Station S10/9/8/Note8/9/Tab S4/S5,MacBook Pro/Air 2018,iPad Pro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cvisDbPQYK528

Does anyone have experience with Nintendo licensed refurbished stuff? I am looking to get a second dock and AC adapter on the cheap without bricking the console.

1. Should i spend the money for brand new? or try refurb?
   
   
2. Should i save the money and try an Anker USB hub or this?

Gringo checking in here. Just got to the country and agree with everything here. You only need the round two pin adapter to get your N. American plugs to work with the outlets here. I thought I had to buy a S. American adapter, but turns out, I needed to buy the European one. Also, if your laptop has a three prong I'd suggest getting a [grounding converter] (http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM). It makes my laptop plug look like a franken-plug, but it works fine, no issues.

Also, your stuff will charge crazy fast here, which is nice.

The DVI-D output from the card is a digital signal. The VGA input on the monitor needs an analog signal. It looks like your adapter is just allowing the cables to connect to eachother. It is not changing the signal at all. You need a DVI-D to VGA adapter/converter that specifically converts the digital signal from the DVI-D/GPU into an analog signal. This will most likely require additional power to perform the change in signal. An example can be found here:

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG

With how cheap monitors are I would suggest just getting another monitor that supports digital signals.

The HP-A4's RCA plugs are for sending music out to speakers, not for sending your music into the amp. For android phones, you'll need a USB-B 2.0 to USB-A cable and a USB-A to USB-C adapter assuming you're using a phone with USB-C like Samsung S8, or Note8, or a USB-A to Micro-USB adapter if you're using a older/cheaper android phone like Samsung S7, J3, etc.

USB-B to USB-A cable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NH11KIK

USB-A to USB-C Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

USB-A to Micro USB Adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LN3LQKQ/

The Audio Technica ATR2100 is the most recommended beginner mic you'll find around here. It has a USB connection and an XLR connection, so your buddy can continue to use it if he decides to upgrade to an audio interface later on. (I just ordered one with the intention of using both at the same time for Skype reasons). He'll need something like this to connect the mic's USB cable to his phone.

I just did a quick Google and it does appear people are using their ATR2100s with iPhones and iPads. I suggest your buddy look at YouTube videos about it before committing.

You can purchase a USB Type-C to USB 3.1 Female adapter. They're quite inexpensive on Amazon.

Something like:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1549344669&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+c+usb+adapter

Another solution is to get something like this http://www.amazon.com/CableWholesale-Wholesale-Grounding-Converter-30W1-32200/dp/B000I96AUM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406544724&sr=8-3&keywords=2+prong+to+3+prong+adapter&dpPl=1

and actually hook up a ground (see marnevel's comment, #4) to that mounting hole, this would give you all that you need.

It feels wrong to use analong connections on such a beautiful monitor.

So, DVI-D Dual requires a powered converter. I actually use this converter and have had no issues. Make sure its the right type of DVI, better to double check than return, and it should work for ya.

Like this?

iXCC USB Type C to USB 3.0 Type A Adapter, Charge and Sync Cable, On The Go (OTG Host Cable) for Type-C Supported Devices (6 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5iEtybYM86TR3

Wait, what? Like this cable? https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0

I'm not sure how you connect your Xbox controller to your phone. The Xbox One OG controller is wireless, so to make it wired, isn't the controller cable USB Micro B to USB A male? You connected that cable to the one in the Amazon link?

Use one of these It works by attaching the third prong to the metal screw I think, I used them in my two prong outlets and it works great. Any hardware store should have them if you're in a hurry.

I've actually seen and used that setup before.

There is a PS/2 connector next to the DB-25 serial port. It will only work with a mouse. If you open up the case you should find that top slot isn't actually a PCI or ISA card, but a specialized riser card designed for that motherboard.

For the keyboard, you will need an adapter that lets you plug a PS/2 keyboard into the AT connector (found just above the DB-25 serial port). It's a cheap and simple electrical adapter as the protocal is 100% compatable with PS/2, looks like you can still find them on amazon.

These are called 4 pin molex connectors. You wont find sockets on your motherboard to plug them into. Your PSU might have one or two though.

You have one in and one out on the fans coz you can daisy chain them. As in if your PSU has 1 4-Pin-Molex out, connect the fan to that, and you can connect a second fan to 1st fan's out.

There might be converters from motherboard pin to 4-pin-molex, let me look.

EDIT: here

Only $2.79, and free shipping.

If you take the screw out of the cover, plug this in then screw the cover back on it will even be grounded.

Grandma is giving you her electricity. Be grateful, and deal with this trivial issue without making a fuss.

DVI-D is digital only and will not work with a DVI to VGA converter. VGA is analog and the DVI-I puts out both digital and an extra analog output, which the DVI-VGA converter can use. Most of your common DVI-VGA converters will not work with the DVI-D port.

What you need is an "active" DVI-VGA converter. It doesn't just connect pins, it actually contains an active digital to analog converter circuit. I've never had one of them, so hopefully I'm not missing something important. Here is a random one on Amazon for reference.



Side note: Dual versus Duel

Looks much better.

A couple things to consider though.

RAM - I would change this to 2x4GB instead of 1x8GB. Yes in the future if you wanted 16GB of RAM (not sure why you would) you would have to toss your old sticks, but with only 1 stick you dont get the benefits of dual channel. In this situation, the benefits of dual channel are necessary.

GPU/Mobo/Monitors - So the mobo you picked only has two video output ports; 1 DVI and 1 HDMI. The problem is the monitors you picked only has VGA and DVI, so you wouldn't be able to plug both of them in. The easiest thing to do is get an adapter for HDMI to DVI. Another option is adding a cheap video card (An RX460 would suffice) to avoid the issue all together.

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It is possible but rare, I have 2 rift headsets here trying them both on a Pcspecialist Defiance III with a 970M, 2 different issues in each set, old tv type interference on one (playable), image going black every 5/10 seconds on the other (unplayable) the only reason I'm testing is because the one headset (old tv interference) I first tried it with worked perfectly for about 4 hours the first time I used it but I can't replicate that again :(

For anyone reading this in future I got a "Cable Matters 4k mini displayport to HDMI adaptor" and oculus now works on my (pcspecialist Defiance III gtx 970m,

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00K0UDJFI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just get a cheap/small adapter instead of the dock to travel with instead? I got this, works just same as the dock connector wise, just a lot smaller to travel with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JK9DFKH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I use this one. Works fine for me.

Cable Matters Gold Plated Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt Port Compatible) to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K0UDJFI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_sVlQwbQ9Z3X79

What's with the Amazon links being attached to a Youtube link?

For those looking for clean links:

1. USB-C to DisplayPort Adapter
   
2. USB-C to DisplayPort Adapter
   
3. DisplayPort Extension Cable
   
4. USB Extension Cable
   
   EDIT: OP clarified why the links are buried in Youtube links since this post.

I suspected the same. Ordering one now. I found a CableMatters TB3 to DP adapter and CableMatters TB3 to DP 3feet Cable, Which one is the better option the adapter or a 3feet cable ( no lesser length available in India)?

​

https://www.amazon.in/Cable-Matters-Thunderbolt-Compatible-DisplayPort/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Cable+Matters+thunderbolt+3+to+display+port+adapter&qid=1558411924&s=gateway&sr=8-2

​

https://www.amazon.in/Matters-DisplayPort-Supporting-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B01J6DWK6I/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Cable+Matters+thunderbolt+3+to+display+port&qid=1558411958&s=gateway&sr=8-2

​

Thank You.

My Switch has been charging really really slow. I left it over night charging and when I woke up it was only at 29%. I was looking through the setting for tops 2 minutes and it dropped another percent while charging, with the lowest brightness. I am using the cable provided with the pro controller since I didn’t want to bring the main usb with me. I also have been using a 3rd party dock cable that can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_sR2SCbG4DE3Y2 . I’m not sure whats causing the problem in this situation.

You can get a PS/2 keyboard (WASD V2 supports both PS/2 as well as USB, for example). AT connector and PS/2 are the same protocol electrically, just different connector. You need something like: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Keyboard-Adapter-MiniDin6/dp/B0016RTMQE

If you want to build a keyboard that talks the PS/2 serial protocol, it is possible, but you'll need to write your own firmware.

I went through a few before the one I stuck with. I kept this one because it was small enough to keep in my Switch carry case and one of the only ones that supported surround sound out of the Switch. But every one I tried worked fine for outputting over HDMI and charging using non-switch chargers. Works with my OnePlus 6T as well.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JK9DFKH/

Aukey is an OK brand and that should work just fine. Anker has has incredible customer service almost as good as Oculus so I try to stick with them if they have an available product but the cost a bit more.

I have used it a couple times and haven't had any issues other than a few moments of stuttering randomly. My guess is the laptop was downloading something or popping up an alert. This is the adapter I bought, if that helps!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If tapping helps, check all cables and connections to make sure they are clean and tight.

Can you post a picture of the board, and any cables/equipment between the outlet and the board? I would be surprised if that little overvoltage would cause a problem. However, I would replace the cord end and use a 2-to-3 prong adapter (wired correctly) although I don't think this is your problem.

Yes;

1. Buy one of these to convert it to PS/2
   
   
2. Buy this one to convert it from PS/2 to USB

Your graphics card should support 2 HDMI and a DVI input. Ditch the USB, and get a VGA to DVI or VGA to HDMI.

I went with the pro gaming elite bundle and it's a game changer.

I also bought this ravpower 26800 powerbank which the case was specifically made to fit and it fits like a glove.

It can also fit a spare set of joycons (complete with the bumpers attached), an 8bit sn30pro, this portable dock, and this small charger, complete with all cables required except the hdmi cable.

Full disclosure, that dock and compact charger works with latest switch firmware, but the dock has died once already and was replaced under warranty by the manufacturer. If I were to do it again I'd probably switch to the bionic all in one dock that includes charger, hdmi cable, and everything.

Edit: Bonus: I also attached a pro controller to the unit via this molded controller case attached to the satisfy case via the provided carabiner - or I would if this particular part of my setup wasn’t stolen.

No it's not possible. If you plug your monitor into the mobo then that monitor will be driven by the iGPU. No way around it. You can buy an HDMI to VGA active adapter like this https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Matters-Active-Female-Adapter/dp/B007SM7O2U

EDIT: Oh yeah if you have DVI you can go HDMI to DVI

Thanks for replying. After posting this i went on a bit of a search and for only $5 more, I can get this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JK9DFKH/ which I think I'll get. It's a bit smaller and lighter and when i upgrade my Macbook Pro at the end of this year, will be compatible with that too.

​

Interesting that you don't bring the sliding bits, I find the joycons annoying to hold without them.

Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01K51GM46/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=usb+c+to+displayport+adapter&qid=1574358640&s=electronics&sr=1-5

Then just plug the usb into the motherboard.

This one works amazing.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EXKDRAC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This also seems legit, but I am tempted to just have the Display Port Cable instead.

https://www.amazon.ca/Plugable-USB-C-HDMI-Chromebook-ThunderboltTM/dp/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493836186&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+c+to+hdmi+2

I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNS7W63/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

but even a straight USB-C to HDMI cable works (without charging though).

Yes adapters are a thing. https://www.amazon.com/Generic-GC2080-Adapter-Plated-Connector/dp/B000FUVNX8

Any reason that you arent gonna just use the DVI port? As far as I know every 960 comes with one.

Don't just buy any adapter though. You need to buy an active converter or else it won't work. Such as this one

I believe he used a rx470/480. But now that I think of it he also needed an active adapter like this

Right, DVI-I has both digital and analog signals. DVI-D lacks a analog signal. You'll need an active converter. By active, this means there's a DAC used to convert the digital signal to analog. A regular adapter won't work. You should also notice it requires power, in this case from a microUSB cable.

They also make DP to VGA converters

I use this one:
Club3D CAC-1080 Active DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.0b HDR Adapter (support displays up to 4k/UHD/ 4096x2160 @60Hz HDR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9NnZCbWSDQY8N

> Still, generally speaking you don't have to look at system requirements when buying a console game.

You usually don't have to do that for gaming PCs, too. I've been gaming on PC for years, and I never once referenced system requirements. I used to manually adjust settings, but with nVidia's GEForce Experience software, I don't even need to do that, as it optimizes settings automatically based on your PC.

>I understand that newer PC's and Laptops will have HDMI out on them but I still see several people with older system's that are without one. And because they aren't using them for gaming I doubt they feel the need to buying a new one until their current one stops working.

In that case, you can buy a VGA to HDMI adapter off Amazon for $5 or a DVI to HDMI adapter off Amazon for $2.

This is the adapter I got which works pretty well. Still need to connect it to an 4k capable HDMI cable and run that to your TV but it does the trick.

If you mean you have a mini DisplayPort out on your laptop and you want to hook it up the original Rift, I've seen others suggest this adapter will work.

Don't do that. Get a ground lift. The little ring connects to the cover plate screw of the outlet and should provide for grounding if the outlet is properly wired. Or, better, get her landlord to replace the outlets in your grandmother's apartment with ones that conform to modern electrical code.

Go to a hardware store and get something like this.

Convert the DIN-5 plug on the keyboard to PS/2 with this:

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Keyboard-Adapter-MiniDin6/dp/B0016RTMQE

And then convert the PS/2 to USB with an active PS/2 to USB converter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Keyboard-Converter-Adapter-110934/dp/B00IACID2C/

There are DVI-D to VGA active converters like https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG
Yet buying a DVI or DP cable would be cheaper.

I am uploading the photo of the cable. I have w10, my motherboard supports 1 nvidia and 2 gpu cards. i just put it on performance mode. Here the cable's on gpu which i am goin to change to 1. http://imgur.com/nFUMHCv here is the adapter. https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Active-DVI-D-Converter-Black/dp/B01FL7H7HA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483980856&sr=8-4&keywords=dvi+d+to+vga

I have the same Mac as you and had some issues finding a 60hz adapter. Go with option one and buy a new adapter (something like this) . A TB2 to TB3 won’t work in this instance as it’s a display port connection and not a thunderbolt one (despite being the same connector shape)

Thunderbolt 3 is essentially a enhanced version of USB-C. Which means that USB-C devices will work like normal. So all you need is a USB-C to Display Port cable or adapter.

Cable

Adapter

Question: I have an RTX 2080FE and it only has one HDMI Port that has to be used for my monitor. I need another HDMI(2.0) for my WMR VR headset. Should using a Displayport to hdmi adapter like this work or is swapping the plug each time I use VR my only option?

This is the adapter I bought: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077JB28KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P947BbMJA09PZ

It looks like that Cable Matters one only supports 4K 30Hz and no HDR. That'll be a hard pass for me.

Would it be better to purchase this (Refurbished) Insignia Switch Dock for $25, or this Portable Switch Dock for $26? I know a lot of people are concerned with some docks bricking the Switch, but a lot of people are saying the Insignia Dock is compatible with the Switch -- not sure about the Portable one though. What do you guys think?

The jack I plugged into is a headphone jack. The only two jacks the computer has are a microphone and a headphone jack. Are headphone jacks typically amplified?

Just to make sure we are on the same page. Are you refering to this type of device: http://www.amazon.com/Prong-prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM

Yup

iXCC USB Type C to USB 3.0 Type A Adapter, Charge and Sync Cable, On The Go (OTG Host Cable) for Type-C Supported Devices (6 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017TJN22C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VhDUzbYYC9YXE

Your TV has displayport?? Or you're planning to use an adapter like this or this? If so, there's not much data on HDR working over that type of connection. It's not supposed to work (because it's DP 1.2 and not 1.4) , but one Intel CPU guy did manage to get HDR working. Haven't heard anything on AMD.

So far all AM4 boards have done HDMI 2.0 regardless of what their specs say. The tested ones are in the Wiki.

You can certainly spend a lot on a displayport KVM switch, or, use a USB switch for your peripherals (plugged into a USB Hub) ala

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00JX3Q28Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and then use this on your MBP for video: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01FIVSC6Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 . It's HDMI vs Displayport, but with https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01EFQWP0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 then I can also hook up my Xbox to the monitor.

Not amazingly cheap, but about a third of the price of displayport switch linked by mygocarp.

Source: am doing just that.

Going from HDMI to USB won't work. And you can't daisy chain using DVI.
If you have HDMI output available on the macbook, you can get a HDMI-> DVI adapter/cable if the monitor does not have HDMI input.

Either something like this http://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Adapter-Plated-Connector-Female/dp/B000FUVNX8 if you have a DVI cable.
or a straight up HDMI-DVI cable: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-DVI-Adapter-Cable/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1418893883&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+dvi+cable

Whether or not the macbook will output to two monitors at the same time you'd have to get a Mac user to answer, but I can't imagine that it wouldn't.

I have no personal experience with this, but:

/u/cybereality once recommended the Cable Matters Mini DisplayPort (Thunderbolt™ 2 Port Compatible) to HDMI Male to Female Adapter - 4K Resolution Ready. I see people in the answers section saying it works well.

Yep, either a DVI-D to VGA or Displayport 1.2 to VGA converter will work.

Yep maybe try this USB-C to HDMI 2.0 adapter, with and without the dock

https://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Thunderbolt-Supports-Displays-3840x2160/dp/B01FIVSC6Y

I am using it through the TB3 port. And I'm using this adapter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K51GM46/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are a few actual cables that do the connection without an adapter, but when I was looking for this one, they were all sold out. The CableMatters one works just fine and I haven't had any issues with it. 144hz was a game changer for me in FPS games.

Actually any cable like https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-DisplayPort-Thunderbolt-Compatible/dp/B00K0UDJFI/ do work since 4k@30hz (hdmi 1.4) is enough to handle the rift. I know i have no issues with my standard passive hdmi-dp adapter

That's a passive adapter, and won't work AFAIK (without the 4 pins around the bar, there's no analog signal at all to pass to the VGA side).

You need something like this, an active adapter:

https://www.amazon.com/gofanco-Pro-DVI-D-Active-Converter/dp/B00RWFT8NG

I would stop by a local shop (like radioshack) and try to find these http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Wholesale-Prong-grounding-converter/dp/B000I96AUM and see if it helps. They are cheap. Try them on both the sub and Laptop. I'm not sure how safe this option is but it would definitely isolate the ground. It has worked for me in the past but it isn't a fix all.

https://www.amazon.com.au/CAC-1080-DisplayPort-Adapter-displays-4096x2160/dp/B077JB28KM

You can enable VRR over diplayport in the nvidia control panel.

So the top 2 options may just be possible.

I wanted to get 1440p@120hz with VRR enabled from my 2080ti to my LG C9

I'm not sure what was wrong with your previous adapter, but this one looks like the right type:
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Type-C-Gen1-Female-Adapter/dp/B01GGKYYT0/

The details indicate that it can be used with a USB type-A flash drive, keyboard, or mouse.

I've been using this for almost two years, no issues whatsoever. The issue with frying switches is when the dock tries to replicate the easy slide of the oem dock and they end up squeezing the connecting points down too small. This "dock" doesn't try to do that, it snaps right in with that USB c "click" as it should.

USB Type C to HDMI Digital AV Multiport Hub, USB-C (USB3.1) Adapter PD Charger for Nintendo Switch,Portable 4K HDMI Dock for Samsung Dex Station S10/9/8/Note8/9/Tab S4/S5 Travel TV Docking Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JK9DFKH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xhaKDb68TSSSB

Plug this into either of the two Thunderbolt 3/USB C ports on the P71 ;)