Reddit mentions: The best computer case fans

We found 5,309 Reddit comments discussing the best computer case fans. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 929 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.

🎓 Reddit experts on computer case fans

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where computer case fans are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 162
Number of comments: 116
Relevant subreddits: 2
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Number of comments: 17
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Number of comments: 15
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Total score: 32
Number of comments: 19
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Number of comments: 17
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Total score: 25
Number of comments: 25
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Number of comments: 15
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Total score: 14
Number of comments: 14
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 14
Number of comments: 14
Relevant subreddits: 1

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u/kiwiandapple · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

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My rationale for the chosen products:


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CPU:

  • Intel quad-core, hyper threaded, locked CPU clocked at 3,4GHz with a turbo boost up to 3,8GHz.
    This is pretty much an i7 without on-board graphics (not required). Which means that the price is a bit lower. It's an older generation, since we have a new one out, but the price increase pushed me over the $1500 limit.

    Check out the videos above: "i3, i5 & i7 / hyperthreading explained & what CPU to buy?" to understand why I suggest this Xeon.

    CPU Cooler:

  • Not required to buy, since you do get an intel stock cooler that will keep the temperatures in check. But those stock coolers tend to get a bit loud, which I personally can't stand. So that's why I suggest this $15 cooler. Absolutely not a must and if you don't mind the "whiny" noise that the stock cooler can produce, you can leave it out.
    I did went for a case that got some noise reduction features build into it, to help reduce the noise.

    Motherboard:

  • Cheapest motherboard with 4 RAM slots that accepts the Xeon to be placed in. While it is relatively cheap, it's not bad at all and a fan favorite. The only downside it got is that it only got 1 fan case header on it. Meaning that you have to buy a fan splitter when you add more fans into it.
    If you do want to add a fan later on to reduce the temperatures, then I would advise this Arctic F9 fan.

    Memory:

  • RAM is RAM. Speeds does not matter much, the only thing that matters is capacity. 16GB is an awesome amount of RAM which allows you to run (multiple) games, streaming software, skype video calls, music, lots of chrome tabs, all at the same time without running into any issues.

    Storage:

  • Review (SP550)
    Now, no.. this SSD does not win any prices in terms of performance. But it absolutely destroys value market. It's an amazing SSD and you won't notice much of a difference compared to the more expensive options out there. 240GB is a good chunk, but you'll lose about 30GB because of the OS & formatting.
    Watch the "SSD vs HDD" video to learn more about the difference between an SSD & HDD!

    The HDD is just a standard 2TB HDD, which should give you plenty of storage for a start. If you later need more, you can always buy more HDDs and install them. The motherboard supports up to 4 more HDDs.
    Note: you want to connect the SSD with SATA3 (6Gbps) ports on the motherboard, not the SATA2 (3Gbps) ports. The HDDs can be connected in the SATA2 no problem, since HDDs don't reach the maximum speed that SATA2 is capable off.

    Video Card:

  • Review (video)
  • Review (written)

    Now this is a beast of a card. It really is, it's about.. price to performance. The GTX1080 is the big brother, which costs almost 40% more, yet only provides about 18.2% on avarage extra performance based on 7 games @ 1440p in DX11, DX12 & OpenGL.
    The custom cooler from Zotac also helps to cool the GPU even better.


    Game @ 1440p (ultra settings)|API|FPS GTX1080| FPS GTX1070|% Difference
    ----|:----|:----|:----|:----
    Rise of the Tomb Raider | DX12 | 90 | 71 | 21.1
    Hitman (2016) | DX12 | 81 | 65 | 19.7
    Doom (2016) | OpenGL | 112 | 91 | 18.7
    Far Cry Primal | DX11 | 80 | 65 | 18.7
    Fallout 4 | DX11 | 103 | 85 | 17.4
    GTA5 | DX11 | 114 | 101 | 11.4
    The Witcher 3 | DX11 | 82 | 65 | 20.7
    Average | | 94.6 | 77.6 | 18.2

    Source

    ##Case:
  • Review
    This is again a part where it really got a great value / performance aspect to it. It's under $40 and comes with sound dampening foam to reduce the noise, 1x120mm silent fan & enough room for all your parts. It's even a little bit tiny. But SilverStone also provide you with an awesome manual to help you build the PC.
    You should have no problem at all to build the PC inside this case if you follow the video guides & the manual.


    Power Supply:

  • 5 year warranty, 80+ gold, semi-modular, 550W PSU from Rosewill made by SuperFlower.
    That last part is important! "SuperFlower" is the OEM of this PSU and they're together with SeaSonic, Delta & a few others that you rarely see the top of the line in terms of quality. Now yes, even those OEMs have bad PSUs, but this one is absolutely not one of them. Of course there are better PSUs, but then you do start to pay a lot more as well.
    In terms of value, this PSU is probably the best you can get right now. Especially considering that the case is rather small, you'll love the modular part of it. Meaning that you only need to plug in the cables that you need & nothing else extra.

    Monitor:

  • Review
    While not a very scientific review. It does tell you what I also believe is the key point of this monitor, value. At this price, it's a no brainer. While still a fair amount of money for a monitor, I am certain that you will feel that this is absolutely worth it.
    It is a 2560x1440p, 60Hz, IPS display. I highly recommend you to watch the videos above that I marked as ← Important! The panel types & resolution are the most important ones. I still find 60Hz, 1440p absolutely amazing for gaming almost all games. The ONLY key game where a 144Hz, 1080p monitor would be the better choice for would be CS:GO. A game that you did list, so.. I leave it up to you to decide, if CS:GO is really an important game to you, then sure get this 1080p, 144Hz, TN monitor. It's the same price, so you lose resolution, viewing angles & color reproduction for the gain of a higher refresh rate and "smoother" gameplay. Which only really is "useful" in CS:GO.
    If you don't play on a high level and are more a casual gamer, I would highly recommend the 1440p monitor. I can provide you with a visual representation of the difference between 1080p & 1440p. Click!
    The pink monitor is my 1080p & the baby blue is my 1440p monitor. I've opened up a text file twice and they're the exact same size. I've only moved them to roughly the same location on the monitor. To show you the difference of real estate / workspace that 1440p gives you.

    Keyboard:

  • Cheap one, because I did not have the budget left and it's an easy thing to upgrade down the road. But this keyboard does have some alright reviews and it got a couple of different LED colors in it.

    Headphones:

  • Review
  • Review
    Yes I give you 2 reviews, just in case you aren't sold after the first video. This headset is actually amazingly good considering the price. I went for the black & white version, which is the only change that's made with the "Pro" version, which is black & red. If you like that color, go ahead and get that one instead.

    I don't recommend the "II" version because all you get is a "3D" virtual surround card. Which.. in my opinion does not really make a difference.
    I can give you surround sound with ANY cheap headset or even earbuds that you have.. right now! It works a bit better with a headset/headphones then earbuds, but both options work. Just make sure that you have your sound setup set in stereo. headphones or 2.0 speaker mode. Then listen to this with your eyes closed!


    Hope you like it and If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
u/lild1425 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Here is another sample build. I always mess up the copy/paste, so I linked it instead.

Definitely take this one with a grain of salt; I’ve only been researching for builds for a family member, and not a PC genius; my PC is a 3 year old Intel and you can now get a PC with the same specs for half the price.

I piggybacked on u/HeyItzZach build. Having a Micro Center is a huge advantage for CPU/MOBO savings. For whatever reason, the mATX combo packages at MC are far better. Seems like ATX bundles require an expensive MOBO. If you don’t want mATX then you can just disregard everything. I have an ATX and personally wish I would have gone with a smaller form factor to take my PC places if need be.

The case can be changed, but the Masterbox Q300L is always in the Best Value option when googling “Best mATX cases”. It’s well reviewed by users and pro reviewers alike and for $45/$50 seems like a hell of a case. I’d recommend checking out cases on Youtube and I’m sure they have them out on the Microcenter floor to peek at. There are tons of great videos. The Q300L has 2100 cubic in. interior space, which is in the middle of the pack of all the mATX’s.

Kept the same memory. Pretty good min/maxing. Have had Crucial in a PC for years, no problems.

Also, kept u/HeyItzZach PSU. Definitely want to go with a better (and higher wattage) PSU than the EVGA 400W; I heard the general rule is at least 100w higher than the PC power draw. The Corsair TXM is a high tier PSU on every PSU hierarchy list and it’s at a really good price point.

May want to try out mice they (probably) have out at Microcenter; they do have some of the real popular ones out at Best Buy. The G502 is generally very well liked (although some really hate it). Was literally just on sale for like $30 a few days ago and will probably again soon. I have the G502, but mainly use a Corsair Scimitar MMO Mouse for everything. I use the side number buttons for everything and is great for all types of games.

I’ve had about 5 mechanical keyboards including a super expensive Corsair and I love this one the best and it’s actually super inexpensive. It’s a Brown key-switch, so it’s not super clicky and not too soft aka the Goldilocks IMO of switch types. r/MechanicalKeyboards is a super friendly great place. Can always gather ideas there. Once you have a mechanical keyboard, it’s hard to go back to the old membrane keyboards.

The NVME 1g M.2 is at a good price and is head to head faster and has more storage than a regular SATA SSD. Only shaves off milliseconds off Windows load times and gaming needs, but might as well.

Visualized here.

Forgot fans. That particular case allows 5 120mm fans with 1 included you’ll probably want to change. I’m guessing won’t need all 5. A lot of inexpensive RBG fans aren’t listed on PCPartPicker, but you can get well-rated RBG fans for pretty cheap on Amazon. Here’s an example.

This is the benchmark comparison between Ryzen 5 3600 and the Ryzen 5 2600 if you did want to jump up to that other CPU mentioned.

Oh, and if anyone has any other ideas, feel free to comment. Have spent a lot of time on my own family AMD build to get the best value, so just sharing what I've learned so far.

u/PCMRBot · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Testing new things, I need your help.


> /r/theydidthemath has a neat 'points' system that I feel would be super awesome to have in our Daily Simple Questions thread. If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

> This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. I don't know what these points will be used for or if this feature will be a permanent thing. This is where you come in. If there's a good response and it works like I want it to, this could be a great way to incentivize people helping.

Now, get out there and help some people!

-\/u\/eegras

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In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread. There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

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> I have a 1TB HDD for mass storage (and 128gb for OS), being the PC enthusiast that I am, I want to run on SSD only storage from this point on.
> I want to get a 500GB SSD (750 EVO) this month, and the coming few months 1 SSD of 500Gigs at a time.
>
> Is this a smart idea or am I better off saving money for 1 big 1TB or 2TB SSD?
>
> In the netherlands, the 750 EVO 500GB is around 120 euros

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p6jnr

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> I've just installed Windows 10. What are some things that I should remove? I found this thread but it's like a year old so I don't know if the same things still apply https://www.reddit.com/r/pcmasterrace/comments/3f10k0/things_to_removedisable_in_windows_10/

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p5ss4

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> hello
> i've got a problem with my pc but i'm not sure what it is
> my setup is
> 970 gtx
> i5 4590
> 2x8gb ram
> b85 mb
> anyway, its nothing unusual
> When i play overwatch on high settings my pc turns off after really short duration of playing. I don't get any fps drops or any weird things going. Same happend in word of tanks beta hd.
> Ive got OCZ 600W stealth stream 2 PSU, the power seems to be enough but as far as i looked for answers everyone says its psu. When i did a stress test in furmark it didn't turn off, my psu is a bit older then rest of my pc.
> Is there a way to check if its psu or any other component failing?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7p5iyg

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> Are there any really clear UV reactive dyes I could use for my system? I just have clear distilled water in my loop but I'd love for it to also be UV reactive without making it also colored.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7opu5s

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> What's an, or some, ideal rectangular tables for this space right here: http://i.imgur.com/y6KBwP1.jpg
> As you can see it's a pretty garbage table and I'm willing to get rid of it as quick as possible, as well as organize the things on the table.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oni4l

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> Anyone know if the AM1M-A board supports hot-swapping?
>
> Also - how do you set a particular drive to be marked as external? is it done by the bios or os?
> Thanks

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7ojsn9

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> Sata power cable on this CX 500 is too fat to be able to plug into the SSD, any recommendations on extensions?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oe85n

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> Good place for buying custom sized mousepads?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7odl76

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> Where is AMD Catalyst Control Center saved by default? I want to overclock my monitor and can't figure it out.
>
> Edit. Advanced settings through AMD Preferences.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7oc2w8

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> EA is asking me to verify my game (BF4) but when i bought it didnt come with a verification code since i bought via origin store, is this normal?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o8bmp

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> so I own the Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case and I really want my setup to start going a color theme or something like that do I need to buy a new case with a window. Im kinda wanting to go black and red a little because of my brand new HyperX Cloud 2s any one have suggestions? Is there anything I can do to my current setup to make it start following a theme? here is my current build PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
>
> Type|Item|Price
> :----|:----|:----
> CPU | Intel Core i3-6100 3.7GHz Dual-Core Processor | $110.99 @ SuperBiiz
> Motherboard | MSI H110M Pro-VD Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $55.99 @ SuperBiiz
> Memory | Crucial 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $35.98 @ Newegg
> Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $45.89 @ OutletPC
> Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 960 4GB SuperSC ACX 2.0+ Video Card | $220.00
> Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Newegg
> Power Supply | EVGA 500W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $43.49 @ SuperBiiz
> Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit | $0.00
> Monitor | Samsung 2333T 23.0" Monitor | $100.00
> Keyboard | Razer BlackWidow Chroma Wired Gaming Keyboard | $145.28 @ B&H
> Headphones | Kingston HyperX Cloud II 7.1 Channel Headset | $91.99 @ Newegg
> Other| Tax| $60.00
> Other| Dell Premium 6-Button USB Laser Scroll Mouse J660D| $0.00
> | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
> | Total (before mail-in rebates) | $979.60
> | Mail-in rebates | -$15.00
> | Total | $964.60
> | Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-15 14:53 EDT-0400 |

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o6g5c

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> http://pcpartpicker.com/list/46wfyf
> Will these parts fit in the case? It's a Mini ITX build.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o5liu

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> Is it better to use a fan splitter cable like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ that connect directly to the board or get direct PSU fan cables/passthroughs like this https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVYPBTJHZB4KKFH4C2HJ to add more fans than there are mobo fan headers? (Note: I'm not sure if either brand is reliable and will do research on what company makes the best of those cables)
>
> Also, why are LED fans cheaper than non LED fans?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o5aw2

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> I'm using my mouse with a bungee cord (for cable management) and the mouse cable is developing a small kink. Any tips for straightening these out?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_15_2016/d7o4ngp

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> I am using an NZXT Grid V2 fan controller, does anyone know if I have to actually be running CAM in order for my fan profiles to be active?
>
> And does anyone have any recommendations for a monitor mount/stand for a 27 and 24 inch pair of monitors?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/52wajw/daily_simple_questions_thread_sep_152016/d7o0x4k

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User | Points
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Trazac | 14
Flying_Spaghetti\
| 7
thatgermanperson | 6
rehpotsirhc123 | 6
Xolandi | 3
TehThyz | 3
saldytuwas | 2
ImpatientPedant | 2
ITXorBust | 2
Buxton_Water | 2
iiNt3rV3nTiiOnZ7 | 2
Sayakai | 2
Rivin2e | 2




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I am a bot - This action was done automatically. Please direct any questions or concerns ( or bug reports ) to \/u\/eegras - About /u/PCMRBot

u/Skotzie · 3 pointsr/oculus

Don't be so sad my friend. Performance hasn't increased that much over the past couple of generations of Intel cpu's since Sandy Bridge. Yes a 4690K is an decent upgrade but overall 2500K is not a bad CPU at all. It's still better than almost every AMD CPU in many gaming scenarios.

My recommendation to you is to upgrade your GPU to GTX 970 or similar for amazing value, and then buy an aftermarket cooler for your cpu, so you can overclock your CPU to hefty speeds. Something like the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power is incredible good for the size and prize. Link to Amazon. Or the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO is also very capable for overclocking, though the Thermalright True Spirit 140 power is still quite a bit better.

Here are some video tutorials for overclocking the i5 2500K if you are new to this. It's not as hard as many people think. You don't have to overclock it to extremes, but maybe just a slight overclock like 4.2 or 4.3 GHz with slight voltage increase should be enough and give a decent boost. This small of an overclock might not even require an aftermarket CPU cooler(you can try), but I would recommend it anyways since it is less noisy than the stock cooler, and you can maybe use it for your next CPU too for overclocking.

This will give you a lot of performance increase combined with a GTX 970 upgrade. Though overclocking might not be necessary at first, unless you notice some performance issues.

u/AlcoholEnthusiast · 1 pointr/sffpc

This was immensely helpful, thank you very much.

To comment on your points,

Very good to know about the fan controller. I suspected it wouldn't be able to power the fans. That seemed a little too easy. However, I will likely go for a 1 > 4 splitter so there is no wires that are unconnected. That would bother me.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_8?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1495948300&sr=1-8&keywords=fan+splitter

Would something like that work for the 4 fans? Then I would use the CPU fan header for the 5th that was attached to the CPU cooler?

Also thanks for the heads up on Corsair PSU > Silverstone. I was actually already planning on that, but for some reason, Corsair SF6000 isn't showing up in PCPP right now, and I wanted a placeholder so I knew where I was at financially. So I will be getting the Corsair SF600 + ATX -> SFX adaptor.

In regards to the front panel/header, I was going off comments like this that I had read:

"Nice but USB headers 3.0 and 3.1 not a good combination with Fractal Nano S (3.0) and Corsair H80i v2(USB 2.0). Z170i is better if you are going with these two items."

"But you can't use the front USB right now because new 3.1 to 3.0 adapter is not yet available AFAIK."

So yeah it didn't make sense to me, but since I heard a few people mention something about it I just figured there was something I was missing.

Thanks for the heads up on the RGB header. So that is a header that is in place specifically 100% for people who want to add aftermarket RGB lighting, and they would plug it in to that header?

I will not be getting an NVME SSD, as of right now I am getting the 850 evo 500g. Shortly after I build my computer and get another paycheck I will likely go back and get the Crucial MX300 1TB M2, so lessen the wires and get a good bit more storage.

And noted on the amount of accessories. I am not really bound by specific budget. I could upgrade to the 1080ti and still keep everything else if I thought there were a legitimate reason to spend another 200$ on a GPU. I am getting a 27'' 1440p 144hz G Sync monitor, and from what I can tell the 1080 should handle that at high settings pretty easily If it can do that then I really don't need to dish out the extra money for a 1080ti imo.

Plus part about building a PC (for me at least) is the aesthetics. Having parts that you love, and love to look at. I will have an open window case, so I wanted to use parts that I liked and made the computer look good - without compromising on space. So after looking at every Define Nano S build on PCPP I decided the one I linked above best represents what I'm trying to do on a computer (both aesthetically speaking and performance wise).

Thanks for letting me know about the 3 main cables I'll need too. What does the 4+4 EPS CPU cable connect, and what does the 6+2 PCI-E cable connect?

THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS

u/OpticalNecessity · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have a Maker select. It's my first and only 3D printer so my review compared to others is unreliable.

Here's a copy/paste of a review I did on it about a month ago. It's long but detailed with links:

I will give you my background before my opinions. As everyone has different goals, opinions, and experiences.

I got my printer near the end March of this year. I have something like 2500m of filament run though it, and no idea how much print time.

When I received my printer, my test prints failed and I was pissed. But this community helped improve my Cura settings and started producing usable parts. I then went nuts and printed out a BUNCH of mods. This is by far my most favorite thing. There's always something I can print to improve the quality of the prints.

THe down side is I went too far and got to a point where I couldn't produce anything of quality. So, 2 weeks of tweeking and researching later I'm printing in PETG with beautiful quality and very minimal visible layers.

My most recent project in PETG:
http://i.imgur.com/sVf7S2D.jpg?1

So, now to answer your question...

> How do you like your Maker Select?

I love it. It allowed me to buy a cheaper printer (One of the cheapest at the time @ $350) that produced amazing results. It also has upgrades you can purchase or print to improve the quality, so investing smaller amounts over time to make it better and better. I highly recommend it to anyone who is starting because it does require tweaking which forces you to learn and understand how exactly 3d printers work. A major plus was that this community has a lot of Maker Select users for support, which was a MAJOR plus for me.


As of today, I've purchased the following upgrades:

  • IKEA enclosure - $115
  • LEDs for Inside enclosure - $25
  • MK-9/10 Extruder Gear - $9
  • Micro Swiss All Metal hot End - $50
  • Micro Swiss Lever - $18 (Totally not necessary, but Micro Swiss's support was AMAZING to deal with, and I wanted to support them so I purchased this as well.
  • Misc. M3 and M4 Screws, etc. - ~$25 in total between Amazon Orders and Lowe's for things needed for mods.
  • New 40mm fan because I broke the blade on the one I had. There are cheaper ones than this. - $14
  • 50mm blower fan - $8

    So, in the last ~3 months I've spent an additional $264... Oh god, don't tell my wife! All are totally not necessary, mind you. The only thing I'd 100% recommend you do are print out the following to mods:

    DiiiCooler along with buying the 50mm blower fan. There are cheaper options out there, I just wanted it faster so I bought it through Amazon to get free 2 day shipping.

    z-Brace - This is key, and will run you maybe $15 worst case scenario to get enough M4 screws and the threaded rods.

    Edit: Forgot a couple more things I bought.

  • Lowe's glass - $4 for 2 pieces of 7.9"x7.9" glass
  • Borosilicate Glass - $12 - Amazing adheasing with PLA and ABS. Don't use it right now, though because I'm printing in PETG and I read on here that PETG eats borosilicate glass.
  • Lithium Grease - $7. When I changed my bearing blocks, I had issues with sticking so I purchased some of this to help smoothing out the bearing movement on the polished rods.
  • 3D print removal tool - $5. Printer comes with a larger scraper, but I needed something a bit more fine (thin) and this thing is perfect.
  • Spare bearings - $13 because I broke one of them when swapping to 3d Printed bearing blocks.
  • Digital Calipers - $18

    That's another $59, so $323... I have a problem. again, 95% of this is NOT NECESSARY. I'm just addicted to modding.

u/keyboardbelle · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

That looks great. I'm not sure what sort of cooling fan mods there are for that model printer, but you could check out Thingiverse. I once had a Printrbot and I had an improved fan shroud that I 3D printed and then added a larger fan to.

I'm not sure if the stock fan is 30mm or 40mm, but if you get a 40mm fan shroud, then it'll help with air flow on print cooling.

I like Noctua fans (they are popular with PC modders and quiet) - but if you want to save $8 or so, you can get a cheaper 40mm x 20mm size 12v fan (the 20mm thick ones will be louder than 10mm):

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500093919&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=noctua+12v+40mm

If you mod the fan, there are some easy soldering tutorials online, and you can do something called a "lineman's splice" that makes it pretty easy. A little heatshrink or electrical tape and you can wrap up the soldered wires cleanly.

The Mini Select is a very popular printer - so mods will be constantly be made that you can 3D print and improve the printer, so check Thingiverse frequently to see what people are modding.

u/mikeski21 · 31 pointsr/ValveIndex

3d printable frunk fan stl file
I used tinkercad to mod the original file, (it took hours to do) it’s designed to suck air out of the headset using a Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan
The heat isn’t that bad but after a hour of playing it starts getting pretty warm, the fan should be really quiet and the lens cover will still go on to keep the appearance of a stock headset (I might have to add 4 small 3x3mm magnets to keep the cove gap big enough for airflow)

Edit
I’m still waiting on the 5 volt noctua fan from Amazon, it should be here In 2 days I will update this post with temperature improvements and overall review.

Edit
I got the noctua 5v fan installed and it works good, I can hear it running when I’m on steamvr home and there’s no background noise but in game I can’t hear it at all.
The airflow is very gentle, I can only feel it on my eyeballs if I open them fully and lift the bottom of the hmd to increase the gap around my big nose.
The hmd stays cooler, I feel like I can play for extended periods of time easily.

Edit
I just played blades and sorcery for 40 minutes it still got hot and sweaty in the hmd, I’m hot sure if 2 fans would be better or just dry out your eyes? Maybe the best option is still a room fan, shorts, and no shirt lol

u/LoneKrafayis · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

> AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor

You could get the Ryzen 5 3600. It has 75% of the cores, but costs about 60%. It will give similar performance in high-resolution gaming.

> MSI MPG X570 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard

That is a fine choice. You could save money by buying a B450 motherboard (MSI MAX has new BIOS). You could also wait until January, when we expect new releases. These releases will include a B550 chip set and the motherboards that would go with them.

> hence the ultrawide 1440p display

I did not find that monitor because it is curved. I have not found that curved monitors work well. They catch the glare in the room, at every angle.

> Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Good power supply. You do not need that much power.

> quietness [...] be quiet! SilentWings 3 pwm 59.5 CFM 140 mm Fan

A ok choice, but not optimized. All fans are quiet when they are slow. The trick is being quiet at high speeds. I would move up to NF-A12x25 PWM, or step down to multi-pack fans from ARCTIC.


The Noctua A12x25 fan costs 50% more money then other fans because it moves 50% more air at the same noise levels. The new high-tech plastic blades have tight tip clearance, the fan bearings are quiet, and they have a circuit to smooth the PWM signals to the motor.

Sound Test Video: Noctua's NF-A12x25 - Magic on Radiators!

Testimonial Video: Noctua NF A12x25 Fan Review

Review Page: Noctua NF-A12x25 PWM Fan Review Conclusions

Arctic F14 PWM PST - Value Pack

ARCTIC F12 PWM PST - Value Pack 5pc

> Phanteks Evolv X ATX Mid Tower Case

It is hard to know what is the right choice for other people. I have a short list of cases that I recommend. Almost none of them come with fans, but that might be a coincidence.

  • In Win 303 (ATX)
  • In Win 301 (micro-ATX)
  • Fractal Design Focus G Mini (micro-ATX, comes with fans)
  • Ncase M1 (mini-ITX)
  • Silverstone SG13 (mini-ITX)

    > Noctua NH-D15 CHROMAX.BLACK 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler

    I would move to the 120mm fan versions. If you want normal cooling, choose the Noctua NH-U12S. If you want extreme cooling and silence, get the Noctua NH-U12A. That will also let you get a normal-sized case and a almost any motherboard. (The height and width of the NH-D15 often force the video card out of the top slot.)

    Linus Tech Tips tests the NH-U12A: Why you shouldn't water cool your PC

    > Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory

    If I was going to pay for Corsair premium memory, I would buy the "RGB Pro" versions. If I was not buying for looks, I would get G.skill memory (or whatever is cheap). I have Corsair for price, but it is not a RGB kit.

    It looks like your kit is not RGB, so nevermind
u/Tunderslimer · 2 pointsr/ender3

The PSU case needs some love, too. It's like Creality shopped around for the loudest fans it could find, and that's what shipped with the Ender. Anyway, these two things make the PSU much better: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3384875 WellFan Noctua 60x25 remix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2967389 WellFan PSU case mod and for fun https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987473 cause, well, just cause (60mm fan guard) oh, and the fan: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQMESS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heyyyyy, you've added a buck converter and have 12v now, time to change the main board fan! It's a noisy bugger too! It ends up being the same fan as what comes on the factory hotend cooler. Annoyinggggggggggg. Like a mosquito in my ear!!! https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Noctua 40x10mm fans are bolt in replacements for both of those, if you don't want to change the hotend cooler. I could have used a 40x10 on the Hero Me cooler I used - but the 40x20 looks cooler.

This is the LED strip lighting I used, it was expensive though, and I'm sure you could find much less expensive alternatives. https://www.rpelectronics.com/55-7160w-0-led-strip-outdoor-ip65-white-1m.html (white and red! z-rail and top rail!)

I printed a handle, and really like it, but it won't work without some love. Instead of modifying the 3d model I'm probably just gonna heatgun it into the shape I need it to be. Currently, it hits the Y-axis rail. It's here, if you wanna take a stab at it: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3313306

The Z-axis stepper is by far the loudest - I'm going to try to see if I can make a damper work, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07CL356J5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A28ZWXW3ZSVNZU&psc=1 ** disclaimer note: I haven't done this yet. I haven't received the dampers.

I printed a zillion links from this thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 but didn't like the result after putting it all together. It motivated me to try and do something for cable management, though. I DID end up using a bunch of the start and end mounts, though, and cut off the link nubs. They worked super great for cable management.

I'm still not 100% happy with the cabling - I'm ordering these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B074GZFYM1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23BY812APN9IU&psc=1 and will be trimming/cutting/hiding/wrapping them so it looks nicer. Don't get me wrong, it works fine the way it is, but I don't like that flat ribbon cable stuff. It's too... ugly. It's either these cables or I'm going to build my own, which I like doing anyway. This will be soon. I don't think it'll look much different, but I think individually wrapped cables running to the stepper motors would look cooler. More space-ship-ie.

There's probably more. For this list, there's another list like it of failed/ugly/discarded parts - it took some trial and error for sure. It's worth it though. I've actually printed more stuff for my printer than I have for projects I'm working on. 3d printing is so funny that way!

If you have questions, I'm happy to help :) I have pictures of all this if you need them. I haven't figured out imgur, but will add photos to this album as time goes on: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AEXNqvTXE5ZZhnhi8.

-Tunder

PS. Man this is a really big post. I didn't realize I did so many things. Rabbit hole, this thing is.

u/YamaPii · 26 pointsr/pcmasterrace

In the words of so many here, "Jesus Fucking Christ" is the first thing I have to say! It's so awesome to see everyone pumped up over the build. If I had known there would be so many comments, I'd have posted the pictures with some context, but I'll try and answer your questions now.

Are you posting more pictures?

Definitely! As soon as I get stuck into the meat of the build (this weekend maybe?) I'll take a few snaps during the build and the final result.

What are you going to do with this thing?

Play Minecraft on the lowest resolution possible with the particle effects and clouds turned off of course!

But seriously, there are several use cases intended for this rig, some personal, some work related:

u/karmapopsicle · 1 pointr/buildapc

>A few people recommended having 4 separate RAM sticks rather than 2 so that when one ends up getting maxed out, the other isn't over-bared/"locked up" with the same task. They said it would free up continuity for having more processes going at once. They edited heavily as well, so that's the only reason I thought they might know what they were talking about; but they could be just as wrong.

Yes, I would say that falls into the 'superstition' category of things. The memory controller can only access one stick per channel at a time, so all having more sticks does is increase the load on the memory controller. Some people notice they have reduced OC capabilities running 4 sticks over 2.

So overall, 2 sticks gives you the benefit of minimizing the load on the memory controller, leaving 2 slots free for a future upgrade if desired, and potentially leaves you more OC headroom.

>As for the SSD, my friend has had that one for a few years and it's been alright. I only intend to have the OS on there; and since it was cheaper and I only needed one thing attained to it, I figured it made sense.

If your friend bought one a while ago, he probably got the original version of that drive which came with much better Synchronous NAND. About a year ago Kingston quietly swapped out the Synchronous NAND for cheaper, but slower Asynchronous NAND. I won't really get into the controversy here, but essentially the V-series has always used the cheaper Asynch NAND, and they make no advertisement as to the type of NAND it comes with. They can continue to advertise the same 'speeds' on the specs because when empty with the Sandforce controller the ATTO results remain the same. It's when you start filling it that performance starts to degrade significantly and noticeably.

>I'll probably take you up on that side fan for the case, because I rather the look of the original Phantom case honestly. I'll think on it. Thanks for warning me about the airflow though!

As long as you know what you're getting into. Don't say I didn't warn you!

I'll link you to the Phantom 530 in White and Phantom 630 in White just in case though.

-----
Edit: Also, one last thing, the CPU cooler. I would suggest getting something a bit different from the bland old EVO. At a similar price range, I like the be quiet! Shadow Rock 2. Moving up a bit, the Thermalright True Spirit 140 Power gets my vote - it's extremely quiet, but also one of the most powerful air coolers on the market. Also available on Amazon.

u/smurfsriot · 3 pointsr/watercooling

First, you need to check to see what model number you have for the Sapphire cards. I have two Sapphire Dual-X cards (11197-03-40g) and they do not make full cover waterblocks for them as they are non-reference. I use these.

That drive bay pump/res combo is nice but dual pumps are not necessary. If you like it and want it then by all means get it but just letting you know it is a little much for your application.

>Should i get 2 Rads?

Yes I would recommend it. In your case I would do a 240 or 280 in the front and a 240 or 280 up top. To cool your CPU and two GPU's you need a minimum of 360 radiator space. Your case cannot accommodate one 360 radiator (I believe). Personally, I would go with the 240 radiator up top and in the front. They are a lot more fan choices in the 120mm category than the 140mm category.
>Which fans can you recommend? Or can i even use my Fractal ones? (they are all 140mm)

You will need to change your fans as those are designed for your case. Fans with static pressure are used for radiators. If you go with 280 radiators, I would suggest this or this. If you need 120mm fans, there are a ton to choose from but I am partial to these

>Which fittings should i use?

Your choice completely. Use either barbs or compression fittings. Both get the job done. Compression fittings look nicer but they cost more. It is entirely a personal preference.

>What Tubes would make most sense (im not getting the sizes really :/)?

This is again a personal choice. Tubing size really makes little difference in actual temperatures. The most common size is 3/8 X 5/8 or 1/2 X 3/4. This numbering is 3/8 ID (inner diameter) X 5/8 OD (outer diameter). Based on the size of the tubing will determine what size fittings you need. These numbers need to match. Just remember that the thicker the tubing, the more rigid it will be and harder for tight bends.

>Do i want to have backplates for the GPUs or are they purely aesthetic?

Purely aesthetic. However, in some cases I have seen video cards sag or bend and backplates can help strengthen the cards.

>If i only get one rad, would it be more wise to top or front mount it?

I would advise against one radiator but if you did get one, I would put it in the front.

>Is a push-pull configuration alot more beneficial?

Although it is the most optimal configuration it really is not going to be a "game changer" in terms of temperature differences. Generally push-pull>push>pull but this can vary on the loop placement, the case, the components, etc. At most you may see a 3-5 degree difference among the different combinations and that is not going to make much difference for the bottom line.

u/Imbigazoid · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700 3GHz 8-Core Processor | $279.49 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H110i 113.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $109.99 @ Amazon
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $7.25 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI - X370 GAMING PLUS ATX AM4 Motherboard | $116.16 @ Amazon
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $238.50 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $349.99
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $445.41 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair - Crystal 460X RGB ATX Mid Tower Case | $131.99
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $119.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | Corsair - SP120 RGB High Performance 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.98 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1818.75
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-24 12:03 EDT-0400 |

PCpartpicker didn't find all the amazon links.

Case Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Crystal-Tempered-Glass-Compact/dp/B01LA2LB7W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521906800&sr=8-2&keywords=460x%2Bcorsair&th=1

SSD Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E1T0B-AM/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521906876&sr=8-1&keywords=860+evo+1tb

With some pretty easy overclocking, messing around with XMP settings in BIOS and voltage, you can very easily push the CPU to 3.8 Ghz, People claim to push it to 4.0 Ghz though say it seemed to be a little unstable.

If you haven't cleaned out your PSU, you should. If it's younger than 5 years it's definitely still good. 100$ saved.

Windows can be obtained for free, only disadvantage is a small Windows 10 watermark on the lower right corner, and some of the OS customization settings are locked. It doesn't bother me, and it certainly doesn't convince me to spend 100$ for customization.

M.2 nvme SSDs are many times faster than a SATA SSD, for a boot drive you won't see a huge difference in boot time, but file transfer and such it definitely shines.

The extra fan is for an exhaust for the back of the case. You'll need a fan hub Here: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1521908068&sr=1-3&keywords=fan+hub Forgot about it :/

Ive built with this case before, and it comes with a nice SSD mounting array behind the motherboard, a kinda annoying but spacious PSU basement and great air flow. tempered glass oooo

Buy zip ties. like 50. Zip ties are your friend and so is your fully modular PSU

If you want help with your CPU overclocking, you can pm me, or look up a guide on overclockers forum. Really helpful people over there.

I made it all Amazon, because of prime, which is can save you a lot of shipping. With the cheaper vendors, its cheaper for the part, but the shipping would put you over budget.
u/ropid · 2 pointsr/archlinux

The picture you found is a bit blurry. That "IT856SE" you are seeing could actually be "IT8665E"?

There is an extended version of the it87 driver that's not in the normal kernel, and it has an "IT8665E" in its device ID list:

https://github.com/bbqlinux/it87

It is not mentioned in the README text, but the IT8665E support is inside that "it87.c" file.

Sadly, the person that worked on extending the it87 module gave up recently, he felt he had no time to do a good job. I don't know if there's someone else actively working on it somewhere.

Anyway... on Arch you have this special version of the it87 driver in the AUR as:

it87-dkms-git

This AUR package should be easy to use if everything works right. Before you install it, you just have to make sure you have the "...-headers" package for the kernel you are using installed. For example, if you use "linux" then install "linux-headers", or if you use "linux-lts" install "linux-lts-headers".


If nothing works, you could do a hardware solution. A simple way to solve this is to wire the PWM signal from the CPU fan header to all case fans. You then go and set the fan curves in the motherboard's BIOS menus, and you are done.

There's inexpensive fan hub products to do this. If your case fans are 4-pin PWM fans, the products are quite cheap, but there's also versions that can translate a PWM signal into voltage control for 3-pin fans, so 3-pin case fans can be made to work as well.

Here's two examples of what I'm thinking about:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/

https://noctua.at/en/products/accessories/fan-control/na-fc1

This one here can drive 3-pin fans, it translates the PWM signal into different voltages so it's more expensive:

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/

All of those products get power from a cable that's connecting to the PSU. This is so they won't overload the motherboard fan header. They only connect to the motherboard fan header to get the PWM speed signal but won't draw power from there.

You can also make the graphics card drive case fans in hardware. There are adapter cables that can connect into that tiny 4-pin fan header that graphics card have. You can then get the fan signal from the graphics card to one or two case fans. Those adapters cables are a bit hard to find. You could do a setup where the motherboard's CPU fan header drives a case fan or two, and the GPU drives a case fan or two.

u/Bcron · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Reviews on that first linked Silverstone seem to suggest that it'll control PWM on all fans, but use the tach from only one fan, so it's a good fit for multiple same fans. It'll also run 3 pin (non PWM) fans at 100%, so that's a big caveat.

If you're looking to jump from 1 PWM-controlled fan to 2 same model PWM-controlled fans on one fan header, you might just wanna get a simple splitter.

If you want a fan controller that supports PWM and 3 pin fans via voltage control you'd be better off looking for a controller that uses that method - NZXT Sentry lineup does that, takes up a front drive bay, but it's similar to that Silverstone, only difference is the knobs up front and the ability to control both 4 pin (PWM) and 3 pin via voltage control.

FWIW I use a Sentry Mix and I love it. I don't use fans with LEDs and it might cause flickering as it's voltage control, but I never checked. 6 banks for the Sentry Mix 2 - you can use splitters for even more fan control - hook up like fans (bottom intake with splitter to bank 1, radiator intake/push fans to bank 5, radiator pull/exhaust fans to bank 6, case back fan to 4, etc, then just jog dials if needed).

But that 1-to-2 splitter hooked up to 2 SP120 PWM in one header should be enough for now... And then you can choose to get a fan controller later, and keep that splitter to run 2 fans off of one bank.

u/Vvanderfell · 1 pointr/Amd

I used to have a Noctua NH-D14. Replaced it with an H50 and gained improved idles, but under load after the water heated up, it couldn't keep up with it.

Now, I wish I had an NH-D15, but I have a small form factor build, so that's out of the question. I bought a Cooler Master "MasterLiquid Lite" because it was cheap, fit in my case, and is compatible with AM4. Seems to be performing on-par with the H50, only the pump is a bit quieter and the fin density on the radiator seems a bit higher, but don't quote me on that. The fan that came with it wasn't really getting the heat away fast enough with my overclock, but I have a Noctua industrial fan on it, and it does a much better job while staying pretty quiet.

Personally, I think the wraith cooler that came with my 1700 did a very good job, but if you want to OC or are worried about thermals, I'd personally take a big air-cooler over a water cooler any day. In my experience, they're much quieter (the good ones), and provide better thermals than a lot of the AIOs I've used. That includes some 240mms.

If you're leaving your speeds at stock, the wraith cooler is perfect and does its job quite well. I'd stick with it if you don't plan to push your system at all.

u/drdoak66 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.

First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.

Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.

Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax

Parts already purchased/ bought with printer

Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax

Future planned upgrades

u/TheSyntaxEra · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

So, I am here to post my solution. It was the hot end fan, 100%!! Responsible for 85% of the noise I was hearing. I replaced it with a Noctua A-Series Cooling Fan ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ ) and almost immediately I saw a difference. Not only when printing, but even when the machine is in idle. Thank god, I was running out of ideas.

___

I also printed these: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2557700 which I think help with some of the vibration on the bench (less ghosts in the prints as well). I will probably make these eventually, as I think they will work best: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2742599 I printed this guy also: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318614 but haven't put it on yet. I am hoping that it helps with the remaining 15% vibration noise.

____

The stock fan they are using now is flawed. I can say this for sure, since I was in the lucky position to have two machine here at the same time (sending the lesser of the two back). They both had the same vibration noise issue coming from the hot end. Well, I am happy now.. since you can no longer hear the printer from every room in my house. I hope this helps someone else going through the same issue.

u/Medic-chan · 0 pointsr/buildapcforme
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor | $369.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H110i GTX 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $99.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | Asus X99-M WS Micro ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard | $263.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $83.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $317.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Founders Edition Video Card | $699.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Fractal Design Node 804 MicroATX Mid Tower Case | $106.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA 1050W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $149.99 @ Amazon
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-120 52.0 CFM 120mm Fan | $19.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-140 84.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $24.95 @ Amazon
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-140 84.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $24.95 @ Amazon
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-140 84.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $24.95 @ Amazon
Case Fan | EK Vardar F2-140 84.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $24.95 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2292.56
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-25 21:32 EDT-0400 |

X99 i7 is a fantastic workstation chipset with at least 6 cores.

PCPARTPICKER thinks the h110i is not compatible with this case. It is, I found a post on reddit using these two parts and asked the OP if he needed to do any case mods or had difficulty. He did not and had submitted a request to PCPP to remove the warning. The rear PSU chamber can accommodate this radiator. Having a 280mm radiator for just the CPU will provide plenty of cooling for overclocking. 280mm is the largest you can get for an all in one water cooler.

The Asus workstation (ws) motherboard is definitely one of the best, most reliable motherboards. This is the micro ATX version.

The corsair vengeance LPX (low profile) RAM is very high quality stuff. I've included 16 GB worth that is rated to 3k hz.

The 950 Pro is a very reliable and incredibly fast m2 SSD drive. M2 drives mount directly to the motherboard increasing speed dramatically and reducing cable clutter. No cables are required at all.

The GTX 1080 is the current flagship card from NVIDIA.

This power supply is one of the top rated PSU's for reliability and can supply 1050 watts. Plenty of overhead for overclocking.

These fans are quiet and powerful, specially designed for radiator cooling. Put 4 140mm on the 280mm radiator in the rear chamber. 2 on the top and 2 on the bottom for push/pull. 4 120mm fans go in the front for intake. 1 120mm fan goes in the exhaust port of the front motherboard chamber.

The main draw of this case, other than it's fantastic good looks, huge window, and 1 foot cubed size for portability, is it's dual chamber design. The rear chamber can accommodate the CPU cooler and PSU, cooling just those components, while the front can cool your GPU and motherboard without having to deal with the extra heat from the components being cooled in the rear. It's definitely my favorite case. Also, if you later want to try a custom loop, you can fit a 280mm rad in the rear, and a 240mm rad in the front. Check out the OC3D review of the case on YouTube for more information on the case.

Note: you might need a PWM fan controller to run all these fans.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

This one is fine, stick it on the rear chamber side of the metal divider the motherboard is mounted to.
u/Seriously_High_Guy · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Sure bud, here is the cooler and here is the fan I put on the rad, completely optional but I'm certain makes a big difference in noise, as Noctuas are top end.

Also, here is the video tutorial for installation, an easy installation that takes a little over an hour if you have the right tools, but is pretty simple. Here is the tool set I used, and it gave me any size or fit that I needed to do this easily, plus is great if you ever do any computer customizing in general and need a nice set.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

u/Absentee23 · 0 pointsr/microgrowery

Definitely stick with PC fans. I'd go with 120mm because the larger fan moves more air while moving slower, so it can stay quieter but still cool your box.

I bought this pack of 4 on amazon, they're almost silent, but you will need 2 or more to cool the cfls. I use 2 of these in my veg cabinet, with some duct on the back of them to lightproof it, to cool 3-4 cfls at the moment, but I don't have to worry about smell from the veg cabinet.

You need to figure out what you are going to do if smell will be a problem. If you need zero smell, then you need to think about a DIY carbon filter and how you will move air through it (more powerful fans would be needed).

For a no-wiring-splicing-needed solution, you can get molex (one type of connector pc fans use) power adapters like this one, and use splitters and adapters, etc to power however many fans you need, or even buy a pc fan speed controller like this one and plug it right in.

note: pc fans have two different kinds of connectors typically, larger molex 4 pins (like I mentioned earlier) and some have smaller 3 pin connector. The ac adapter I linked has a 4 pin molex, and so does that fan controller for power in, but it has the 3 pin for power out to each fan that it controls, and the fans I linked also have small 3 pin connectors. Just something to keep an eye out for if you decide to get more powerful fans than I linked, for example.

To wire mine up, I grabbed a 12v AC-DC adapter (a wall-wart, like a plug for an old router, it says the voltage on the label) and cut the plug on the end off, and cut the connectors on the fans off, then it's one wire to red, one wire to black, if it doesn't work switch them. Some adapters have a white stripe on one of the two wires, that one goes to red. (although I think for most fans it would spin them backwards, arrows on the edges of the fan usually point direction of airflow). Heatshrink it all together (or just electrical tape it really securely) and plug it in.

u/Lucidiously · 1 pointr/buildapc

Posted this question yesterday, but hope I've got a better chance here.

At the moment my only case fan is a 200mm intake fan. I want to add two case fans(one exhaust, one to cool the VRM) to get temps and noise down.

I've been looking at the following fan packs, all from Corsair:

  • Air SP120
  • Air AF120
  • ML 120

    Which of these would be best for my intended use, or is there a better option with two fans for under €30?

    Thanks!
u/TheDreadfulSagittary · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

Alright, you seem to like a good combined brand look with all Razer peripherals and all Asus monitors, so here is is build that is completely in style with as much Asus as possible (except for the things they don't make).

I included a higher end monitor as within your budget it's possible. If you don't want it you can cut it out, and then you'll also only need one GPU. The new monitor here is 4k 144hz, but only gets to 144hz with Chroma Subsampling which has it's downsides (mainly a noticeable smear on text), but should still do 120hz with the normal colour support.

I listed 32gb of RAM here as you won't ever get a benefit out of 64gb for gaming before this whole build is outdated, but you can go for it if you just want to feel like a baller.

For the dual GPUs you'll need a NVLink bridge, Asus also sells one of these so you can get that one to fit with the rest of the case.

To manage all the fans in this system you'll need a fan hub like this one.

You can add more lighting with LED strips, you'll need an ROG Aura Terminal to connect them and manage the lighting. If you do go this route you'll also need a USB Hub like this one to allow for more USB 2.0 connections.

In the end it should look something like the build from this video. Feel free to ask any questions.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/YXCGmq (PCPartPicker says that the 2080ti's aren't compatible with the case, but they definitely are).

u/gamerkadja · 1 pointr/buildapcforme
PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor | €214.94 @ PC Componentes
Thermal Compound | ARCTIC MX-4 2019 Edition 4 g Thermal Paste | €6.44 @ Amazon Espana
Motherboard | MSI B450 GAMING PRO CARBON AC ATX AM4 Motherboard | €145.15 @ PC Componentes
Memory | Crucial Ballistix Elite 8 GB (1 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory | €101.87 @ Amazon Espana
Storage | Sabrent Rocket 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive | €119.99 @ Amazon Espana
Video Card | Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 8 GB PULSE Video Card | €379.89 @ Amazon Espana
Power Supply | Corsair TXM Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply | €74.90 @ Amazon Espana
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €1043.18
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-07 18:35 CET+0100 |

cpu: ryzen 5 3600, best price for performance gaming cpu

cpu cooler: stock cooler is just fine here (no reason to upgrade due to case used so noise shouldn't be a problem)

thermal paste: recommended for all ryzen 3000 series builds, requires removing the stock thermal paste from the cooler

memory: ddr4 3600mhz 16Gb 16 latency, about as good as it gets, anything better is a lot more expensive, ryzen 3000 series benefits from fast memory in gaming

storage: a better than mid-range m.2 1tb ssd, doesn't slow down when over 1/2 full

motherboard: I went with msi b450 gaming pro carbon a premium b450 full atx motherboard that has 8.1 audio, wifi, bluetooth, usb-c, and gigabit lan included. Is fully upgradeable to 3950x. Note: You might have to flash the bios to be ryzen 3000 compatible. This motherboard can be flashed without a cpu. By and large though because of the massive sell rate of AMD products in the last few months this is most likely not necessary (they are being sold with the bios updated now). This is a premium part choice, lower budget considerations are available, but with less features. This is a great motherboard.

videocard: the Amd rx 5700, a 1440p capable video card, can do 4k upscale with a 4k monitor in gaming, can be overclocked to 5700xt performance, here is a video series with the 5700. Although Red Dead Redemption 2 is an extremely demanding game (and poorly optimized currently) this gpu and cpu combo should produce 60+ frames at near ultra settings in 1440p. 1080p is probably your current monitor configuration though, and it should max ultra playable at that resolution.

power supply: a gold rated (very power efficient), 550 watts(plenty of watts), semi-modular (some cables detach for easy building), five year warranty

fine to reuse the case: if you want some nice quality additional case fans, here is a suggestion for a 5 pack.

If you have a full version of windows you can use it on the new motherboard. If not I suggest a new oem windows 10 pro disk with code for about 30 euros. This will be a one computer license that will be bound to the motherboard.

Earlier this year I helped someone with a Spanish build, and did a side by side assembly next to PCComponentes. The cost and build quality was the same. So if you want to have it assembled through PCComponentes then the price will be about the same +30 euros for the assembly. If you need help with PCComponentes let me know and I'll do a build through them.

Let me know if you have any questions!
u/Jaegermeiste · 1 pointr/PrintrBot

I contacted PrintrBot about this and while I didn't get an answer about repairing the 13, they are shipping me a 13S. So props to PrintrBot support! The 13S construction appears to be all-metal up into the extruder block (I guess transferring heat to the extruder turned out not to be a big deal?) which means that weak spot is eliminated. They also sell parts for the 13S, unlike the 13, so I can fix things going forward if need be. It uses the same tips, so my tip collection is safe. I'll lose about 35C of heating capability (270C max on the PTFE-lined 13S vs 305C max on the all-metal 13), but if it is compensated for by reliability it will be well worth it. I don't print any exotic or filled materials, but I do print PETG and Nylon on occasion which can get up around 250C depending on the blend. As an example, as the injection-molded plastic clamps holding the linear bearings on my Play have cracked, I've replaced them with more pliable and stronger nylon replacements that I printed myself. To compensate against meltdowns I think I'll move up to a more reliable 40mm fan on the heatsink. I'll probably print the below duct in PETG, since it is more heat-resistant than PLA:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1640957

And I'll use the best 40mm fan I can find:

https://www.amazon.com/40x10mm-Bearing-Premium-Cooling-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

Still haven't figured out a lower fan solution that would work with the above on the Play, yet.

u/PuterPro · 1 pointr/CR10

Sorry, don't have any before / after shots. Yes, there is some reduction in need for supports, but certain models will still have to have them. Very effective overall, that's why they're so popular.

Get the LATEST Cura (3.2.1) as it has new supports that work much better. See this article: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52484-discover-ultimaker-cura-32

Here's my Fang setup:
https://imgur.com/dl26HJZ

I used this Fang:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473423

The front Hotend fan guard (Yellow) is this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2505568

The fans are one of the must do upgrades on the CR-10 series machines. They're cheap noisy things. Get good ones like Noctua.

Here's' my Hotend 40x10mm:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M


and my 40x20mm Parts fan on the Fang:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071W93333


Here's a discussion about fans:
https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rznq8/looking_for_best_5015_fan/

Another major (but cheap) mod is to put dampeners on the X & Y stepper motors. Big noise reduction, minor print quality improvement.

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/collections/awesome-upgrades/products/stepper-dampener


But the biggest thing you can do to make your life with your new printer easier is to FLATTEN your bed. NOT level, FLATTEN.

These are precision machines, but they need some tuning up to work right.

/u/beachandbyte is right, you need to print some bed adjustment knobs:


https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2534990

Here's a post about Flattening the bed (look for my comment):

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7rpq2x/can_i_simulate_a_print_without_damaging_the/

Two other critical things - First, if you haven't done so, go over every screw and bolt and snug them up, don't forget the hotend, you have to remove the fan cover, two screws on the left.

Second, you must get those black plastic rollers setup right. They are purposely left loose during shipping, and most people adjust them wrong.

See this thread for how to adjust them properly:

https://www.reddit.com/r/CR10/comments/7s1ych/maintenance/

Well, you've got some work to do, stop reading Reddit and get to work! LOL :-)

Let us know how the battle goes, K?

PuterPro

u/wuethar · 3 pointsr/buildapc

It can be another model, there's nothing inherently wrong with mixing and matching brands and models as long as they're of a size configuration that your computer supports. I think most people generally like to keep their fans consistent, but that's mostly an aesthetic thing. If you want to stick with the same fan model that came with the case, the fan that comes mountaed on the front of the Meshify C is this one: http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/casefans/dynamic-series/dynamic-x2-gp-12. The case can support up to 3 120mm front fans, so you could add two more on the front with little difficulty.

One point to consider if you're thinking of adding a bunch of fans is that past a certain point your mobo may not have enough sys_fan connectors to support all of them. This is easily fixed, though, by getting either a fan controller or however many fan splitter cables you may need to get easy inputs for all of your fans (I used https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ on one of my builds and it worked well enough).

u/shlokrshah · 3 pointsr/buildapc

Congrats on your build. I'd highly recommend doing some cable management to route your cables behind the motherboard. It'll help with airflow and it should be relatively easy to do.

Regarding fans, Noctuas are always a great choice. I'd also recommend looking into the Corsair AF Series. Slightly louder, bit cheaper, and you have the option of LEDs. Regarding RAM, the B450 should be able to overclock your RAM to 3000 Mhz without much trouble so I'd definitely recommend it since it'll give you a nice performance boost. Can also OC your 2600x a good bit as well!

u/Ratatattat44 · 1 pointr/computers

AMD 2700 vs 2600 - more cores

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo vs Stock HSF - Can overclock 2700 to 2700x levels with ease

MSI vs Gigabyte motherboard - Gigabyte is a failing company, I would be surprised if they still exist without being bought out 2 years from now. MSI quality is vastly superior to Gigabyte. Mobo also has wireless built in

G. Skill vs Team - name brand vs new brand

1TB EX920 SSD vs 512GB SATA SSD + 2TB HDD - EX920 is 5-10 times faster vs the Devo + the HDD you selected is from a 3rd party seller on Amazon selling used drives as new. Wait and get a good 4TB or bigger. A cheap route is to "shuck" a western digital external drive. You can get an 8TB for around $120 that way.

Cases - Just chose something that would fit an ATX motherboard since your choice was mATX only

PSU - Better deal, similar quality

Monitor - Better deal + LG is a better brand for QC

Keyboard - Better deal, both Cherry MX Brown

Mouse - G602 is the best budget wireless gaming mouse, period

You WILL need case fans. This is kind of a hidden expense with building a PC.

Cheap options:

5 Pack of good fans

Fan Hub

u/xx2000xx · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I just woke up when I posted that and didn't know it was you and thought you meant literal case fans. Those would be way way overkill because they are meant for pushing the most air while being silent and you'd really spend that much maybe to throw on your radiator, full size case, HTPC, have $$$ etc..

With my hardware hoarding I was going to send you about 6 of the same 80mm fans if you wanted but they were gone when I gave away 2 cases I guess but I tested a 60mm from God knows when and now I remember why 60 to 80 was a big leap because those things give off that annoying high pitch and don't blow any air.

My 80mm fans were these which were great: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103025

For best noise to airflow I think these might be the best: https://www.amazon.com/Enermax-Case-Fan-Cooling-UC-8EB/dp/B000XBF466

I can do research if you need for fans if that is your setup with many variables. You said 30Q over the VTC5 because of the heat even though it performed better but who knows with those little fans not covering a lot of area that one was slanted just a little bit or wearing out and threw it all off. +

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=pd_lpo_147_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZJYDM15BAKPX2G29JKQ1 = Just saw 4x 120mm fans 38CFM for $15 which is a great deal.



u/DestinysLostSoul · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

Thanks! So a couple things, since that photo, I've rotated the cpu cooler to send air out the back and its been working great. It's cooling an i7-7700k and the highest temp I got to during a stress test last night was 66c at stock voltage and speed. I'm getting a kraken x52 to replace that though, so things should be even better. I'll probably mount that radiator to the top if it fits.

This is the ram I have, which I actually might be selling soon. They work great. Haven't had any issues and I haven't even enabled the xmp profile yet.

Two of the fans on the right came with the case. The two corsair fans you see in the photo are the AF120 models I believe (they glow red). I used to have a Fury X so I had that radiator mounted to the top and used to just have a stock cooler on my i5-6500. I think the ventilation is pretty good, but I'll see what temps I get with the new cooler. Might consider taking the front cover off to increase airflow.

As for tips, I'd say make sure you know what connectors you need for your PSU and connect them all before installing it all cause that area can get tight. Depending on the cpu cooler you have, you might it might be a little tight to install the fan connectors on the top of your mobo. Make sure you know which way your fans are pushing air and plan ahead. Otherwise you'll just annoy yourself with taking them on and off of the case haha.

I should be getting my new parts today, so after I install it all, I can send you an updated photo if you'd like. Feel free to PM if you have any other questions

u/LBriar · 4 pointsr/WeAreTheMusicMakers

So I'd do two things right off. Install some temperature monitoring software like hwmonitor or openhardwaremonitor (both are free and lightweight). Start it up, check your temps, then yank the fan (you can just disconnect the wire from the motherboard while it's running, no harm). Then watch the temperatures, preferably while you do audio stuff on the computer. It's entirely possible that the very loud fan is doing less for the temps than you think. It's also possible that that's not the fan making the noise.

If it is that fan and disconnecting it makes an unacceptable difference in temperature, Noctura makes very quiet 120mm fans for not a lot of money. Other common culprits would be GPU fans (almost always loud, and unnecessary in audio workstations) and sometimes CPU fans. If you're overclocking and the cpu fan is loud, go back to a stock clock and see if the fan gets quieter.

There's a lot to say about keeping PCs quiet, but that'd at least be a start. I'd definitely start with just yanking that fan and see what happens, might be you can get some peace and quiet for free.

If you want a quick and more expensive solution, check out Fractal Design cases. They're nicely soundproof with quiet fans and can be had fairly cheaply on sale.

u/step1makeart · 3 pointsr/buildapc

For 20$ you should get a cooler master hyper 212+, it has a bigger fan (120mm vs. 92) and will easily allow you to reach the max "on air" overclock of that chip. The stock heatsink will easily allow 3.4 GHZ, possibly more. throw in a coolermaster 4 pack of 120mm case fans, put one on the other side of the hyper 212+, and three in the case. all your cooling needs taken care of for 30$ shipped

for 30$ you might as well get 2x4GB ram. these ones are great

the case and psu are good quality, though you can get the antec bp550w, which is modular, for 10$ more.

170$ for that video card seems pretty standard, with 140$ being even better if you get the rebate to come through.

Reading reviews of that mobo, it seems that the compatible ram list is pretty small, and ram issues seem to happen a lot to that board. in the 100$ range there are several am3+ mobo's which would fit your needs. I suggest going with one that has 2 pci-e x16 slots and runs them at (x16, x8) in crossfire or sli. the one you currently have is x16,x4 which will give less performance if you sli/crossfire down the road. if you don't think you'll crossfire, don't worry about that.



u/TheKingElessar · 3 pointsr/ender3

Update for everyone:

  • Watched this video on the Hero Me system.

  • Watched this video on the Hero Me system.

  • Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan.

  • Watched this video on replacing the Ender 3 hot end fan with this quieter option (I don't need it to be quiet, so I'm not going to do it).


    Conclusion:

  • I'll use the Hero Me system with this hot end fan guard.

  • I'll replace the filament fan (I believe that I have my fan names correct) with the dual 5015 Hero Me setup using these 5015 fans. Here's a video I found that is basically a step-by-step guide for it.

    Hopefully in a couple of weeks I'll be back with a successful picture!

    /u/hockeyhippie and /u/johnedwa if you have any input.
u/Nimrodor · 1 pointr/buildapc
  • The H7 won't be enough to sustain heavy overclocking on a 7700k. Consider a $46 Scythe Fuma when it goes back in stock (or from eBay)? That thing outperforms almost every other boxed cooler on the market right now for a very good price.

  • You'll need a bios update to use that motherboard with a Kaby Lake CPU. That's not an overclocking motherboard either, though it'll be perfectly adequate for casual overclocking. I'd probably be looking at an ASRock Z270 Extreme 4 or Gigabyte Aorus k5 or k7 for budget overclocking and aesthetics.

  • The MSI Armor cards don't have backplates, so the back of the card (the part that you actually see most of the time) will just be a blank PCB. You might want to consider an EVGA FTW or ASUS Strix for a good-looking back. GPU's are a part you could probably save $50 or so on by using Jet.com instead of Amazon.

  • Cases are very much down to aesthetics, but you can get very nice tempered glass cases for less than that Corsair thing. At your price point and with your aesthetics, I'd probably be looking at an Enthoo Evolv.

  • That PSU isn't going to help you with overclocking. Get a G2/G3, RMx, Seasonic, etc. If you're serious about overclocking or longevity. This is a part you can potentially save ~$20 on with Newegg.

  • You don't need a wifi card that nice. Most people don't even have home internet fast enough to fully use a card like that. If you really need wifi, it might be cheaper to just get a motherboard that has it out of the box.

  • Those are static pressure fans, not designed for case airflow. If you want more case fans, consider a value pack of Arctic F12's. They're probably the most acoustically efficient unrestricted airflow fan at low speeds, which is what you want for case fans.
u/VVrest · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thermalright's TY-127s fill every checkmark on your list. Great fan by a great manufacturer. I think they are only available in Europe though.

Phantek also has some good black/white ones as well. Also could be worth checking out gentle typhoons though I think those are gray rather than white.

If you're want something a bit cheaper you can actually get a five pack black/white arctic f12s which are pwm. Amazing value here.. They are legit good fans.

u/milkmanjim · 1 pointr/techsupport

Glad I helped.

Your temperatures seem to be completely safe. 71 degrees is absolutely fine for your components, and you shouldn't worry about it. You should only be concerned if temperatures start exceeding 75-80 degrees.

As /u/Dyzleksi suggested, you could move the PC out of the furniture if you have room. This most likely will make the PC slightly cooler, and therefore a little quieter. If you want to make a huge difference to noise and heat, there are many options for cheap but quality fans:

You should start with a CPU cooler like this. This is one of the most popular ones on the market, I have one myself and it is silent.

Any aftermarket case fans will typically do the job much more effectively and quietly. Noctua is a good choice, as is Corsair. If you aren't willing to spend that much, cheaper options will also be a large improvement.

Bear in mind that case fans greatly affect overall performance. How many case fans do you currently have? (These are the fans attached to the case itself, not to components.) Most cheaper cases come with only 1 fan on the front (intake). You should install at least 1 more on the rear or top of the case as exhaust, for a total of 1 intake and 1 exhaust fan.

Grounding should not affect the temperatures or cooling at all. It is a precaution you can take while handling the components to avoid damaging them with static electricity. Many people (myself included) do not bother with grounding and get on just fine. In future, though, you should tap a metal object such as the side panel of the PC before touching any hardware.

If you have any more questions, I'm always here to help.

u/RockLigation · 1 pointr/buildmeapc
For 40$ more you can get 5 RGB fans from amazon

Also the SSD is a bit slower than the usually recommended Crucial MX500 but still fine for gaming and storage needs. Anyway here is the build:


PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $129.30 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock B450M Pro4-F Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $71.00 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $64.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Crucial BX500 480 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $54.95 @ Amazon
Video Card | ASRock Radeon RX 580 8 GB Phantom Gaming X Video Card | $179.99 @ Newegg Business
Case | Cougar MX330 ATX Mid Tower Case | $44.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Cooler Master MWE Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $610.21
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-03 04:15 EDT-0400 |

Alternatively, add the MX500 SSD, this could work too with all the RGB fans for airflow but this case has no PSU shroud and the PSU is non modular so you will need to do a decent cable management job:

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor | $129.30 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock B450M Pro4-F Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $71.00 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $64.99 @ Best Buy
Storage | Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $64.99 @ Adorama
Video Card | ASRock Radeon RX 580 8 GB Phantom Gaming X Video Card | $179.99 @ Newegg Business
Case | HEC HX210 MicroATX Mini Tower Case | $29.99 @ Newegg Business
Power Supply | Cooler Master MWE Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply | $64.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $605.25
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-03 04:18 EDT-0400 |
u/LeKKeR80 · 2 pointsr/HomeServer

Checkout:

  • https://www.serverbuilds.net/
  • /r/JDM_WAAAT

    The build above is more expensive than I would spend for a home media server, but everyone has a different budget. You might want to consider alternatives to some parts that are just as good, but cheaper. For example, do you really need those noctua 120mm fans? You can get a 5 pack of Arctic fans for $27 and do just as good a job cooling. There are other things you could do without or find cheaper alternatives for. Below are a couple of things that jumped out at me:

    I'm not sure about the 10 gb ethernet adapters. I get your desire to link your PC, but check to see what other bottlenecks you have and if the 10 gb adapters will do anything (e.g. hard drive / ssd read and write speeds).

    While we are talking storage, I always try to challenge peoples assumptions that they need RAID. RAID is not a backup solution. RAID is about up-time. RAID is not easy to expand. For media storage you might be better off using a pooling solution like mergerfs or stablebit drivepool.

    Is the ethernet cable going outside? If not, then you don't need the direct burial / waterproof cable.

    The netgear switch seems unnecessary if you only have two devices with 10gbe and you can connect them directly.

    The rosewill drive cages are nice, but if you don't need hot swap you can save ~$80 by switching to Norco 5 x 3.5" HDD Hard Drive Cage.
u/theotherdanlynch · 5 pointsr/buildapc
> Despite being a bad time to build a PC

Be brave! It's a GREAT time to build a PC! It's just a really crappy time to pay for the parts. Good luck, you'll have a blast.

Order a set of these. Gotta be the number one annoyance when building. Maybe one of these too. They're cheap and handy.

Hitachi's drive business (HGST) is now owned by Western Digital, and yet HGST drives still substantially outperform WD for reliability and cost less. That's gotta be awkward at the company Christmas party.

The 860 EVO is a newer model SSD than the 850 EVO. Longer life, etc., and costs a bit less. If you're lazy like me, get the M.2 version rather then the 2.5" so it mounts directly to the motherboard rather than having to muck round running power/sata to the drive.

Good choice on getting the full version of Windows rather than the OEM version. The potential headaches aren't worth the $30 difference.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $333.00 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT - Kraken X62 Rev 2 98.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $147.32 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | EVGA - Z370 FTW ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $198.06 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $196.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $149.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Hitachi - HGST Ultra 8TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $317.89 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SSC GAMING Video Card | $515.00 @ Newegg Marketplace
Case | NZXT - H700i ATX Mid Tower Case | $179.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic - PRIME Titanium 750W 80+ Titanium Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply |-
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home Full 32/64-bit | $119.00 @ Newegg Business
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2157.24
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-03-19 15:17 EDT-0400 |
u/Pistol-P · 3 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Are you pushing on the center of the fan where the bearings are to stop the noise? If so, then mounting it on top will give you the same issue if not worse, as the middle part that I assume you're "pushing back into place" would be facing down when exhausting air out the top, so gravity would be working against you. I guess it would still be worth a shot to try it in a different orientation, but I had that issue on one of the NZXT fans that came with my S340 Elite and it needed a replacement.

If you end up needing a replacement I would recommend checking out the Arctic F12/F14 fans if you just want something cheap and don't need dat RGB. They're better than stock Fractal case fans in both airflow and noise, MUCH better than the Coolermaster RGB fans that came on my AIO and if I remember correctly the NZXT fans I had on my S340 Elite were louder than the Fractals.

I was skeptical at first with the low price, but I had used one of the Arctic GPU coolers before and it was top notch, these were no different. There are definitely better performing fans like the Noctua's, but for a rear exhaust fan I don't think it's necessary to splurge. They make quiet, solid fans, and they're pretty much the cheapest out there.

If you do want to get some RGB bling in your case without breaking the bank I would check out the Deepcool RF120's. They cost a little more and noise levels on the Deepcools are close to the F12's, but they do move a little more air, at 56.5CFM vs 53 CFM with the F12's.

Both of these fans can be bought in packs with 4-pin fan splitters/hubs, and have a noise profile that doesn't "stand out" which is the most important thing IMO. Moving air is always going to make some noise but what you want to avoid is fans that have a strange pitch or a distinct buzzing, clicking, whirring etc that stands out.

u/Horkback · 1 pointr/CR10

E3D V6 hotend

Noctua fan for hotend cooling (I hosed the original using a heat gun to assist bed temps for ABS) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap as hell 5015 2 pack part cooling blowers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This kickass heavy duty customizable mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 printed in PETG

I replaced my hotend with a microswiss right away and jacked up both it and the original, but learned a lesson and added plugs to everything. Hotends usually come with crimpable plugs, but they're all different so I standardized on these for fans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5AHF0Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this type (xt60) for the hotend cuz current https://www.amazon.com/Female-Connector-Housing-Silicon-Battery/dp/B073QJWVVK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517496061&sr=8-5&keywords=xt60+connectors

All of the plugs made my wiring kinda fat, so when you join the Bowden tube, the wiring, and the ezabl cord its just heavy enough to droop lower than the gantry and get rubbed back and forth during prints. I designed a chain link style support in blender that anchors at the extruder and velcro'd the bundle to it. It allows free xy movement but not z. It works really well but could prolly be optimized. 😃

My printer came with the bed heater wiring strain relief already printed and installed, definitely do so. Also, get a dial gauge. Seriously. Print a gantry mount for it and slip it on to use it when needed.

u/RAGE_THERAPY · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

The Corsair LL fans are great fans, but certainly at a premium. The three-pack for $100 is actually a very good price for these fans that have LEDs both in the inner and outer ring. Only thing to keep in mind is that you'll be buying into the Corsair eco-system and having to use their provided RGB controller.

If you just want a basic RGB fan that plugs into your motherboard and are quiet - the best deal out there are the 5-Pack of RF120 fans from Deep Cool at Amazon for $45 (no tax). These are 4-pin PWM fans with 6 LEDs around the inner ring and just require a 12V RGB 4-pin port on your motherboard. They even come with 2 fan hubs, if your motherboard doesn't have enough fan headers. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07HN199YJ/

u/zapharus · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I did something similar to what you're trying to do here but instead of such a big fan I bought what are essentially PC case fans and cut two square holes, on the back cover of the TV unit, that were just the right size for each of the fans and used weather foam sealing/stripping around the openings where the fans will rest on to help dampen the noise from the vibration. I made sure to have the fans blow the air OUT of the enclosure and put silicone furniture bumpers on the cabinet door to create a small gap for air to go into the enclosure from the front.

The fan you have in there will be way too loud. The ones I linked come in a pair, are a lot quieter, and only need one power supply so you can either use the USB cable and power adapter that comes with the fan set, or use one of the USB ports from the Xbox One system. I don't yet have an Xbox One to test whether or not the USB ports only power when the system is on or if they're powered on all the time. If the USB ports only power when the system is on, using one of the USB on the Xbox might be the better option because the fans will turn on when the system is powered on. Using the supplied power adapter that comes with the fans requires the fans to be turned on manually.

I hope this helps.

P.S. For the love of everything that is holy, please DO NOT have the air blow into the enclosure, you will give your Xbox One an early death.

u/TeamAmerica5 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

So yeah you have three ports available to plug fans directly in to the motherboard. What I would recommend over a Molex adapter would be a hub like this.

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rh0Zxb68PGZVT

Still plug your cpu fan directly into the cpu fan hub on the mobo, but plug all the other fans into the hub, with the hub plugged into one of the system fan ports. And voila, now you have support for 7 more fans.

Glad I can help, feel free to ask for clarification on anything else.

u/machinehead933 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thermalright True Spirit 140 or the Cryorig H5 are a little more expensive than the H7 - but at least they are in stock. the TS140 is a great cooler, and performs almost on par with the Noctua D15 which is considered top of the line for air cooling. If you don't want to spend that much money, a good ol' Hyer 212 will be OK. If you intend to get a decent overclock on that 6700k, I would definitely recommend spending a bit more on one of the options I mentioned.

u/Adaevan · 3 pointsr/buildapc
  1. The water cooling fan header can be used for a case fan. I believe the pump fan header can too, but I'm not sure. Keep in mind that your motherboard may treat those headers as PWM controlled or DC voltage controlled, and you may have to change fan speed settings in the BIOS.

  2. See 3.

  3. See 2. Just kidding, see 4.

  4. Easiest way would be to buy a fan splitter. Make sure that, if you have 4 pin PWM case fans, you get a 4 pin fan splitter. If you have a lot of fans, you can consider a fan hub. It can get power from your PSU via SATA or Molex, depending on the fan hub. Plus, if you get a PWM fan hub you can turn non-PWM fans into PWM fans, though all fans connected to the hub will run at the same speed.
u/poblopuablo · 1 pointr/sffpc

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I?th=1&psc=1 this is cheapest small fan hub I know of.

The only one smaller is the aquacomputer quadro, but it's pretty expensive and uses molex, that being said you can download their software to finfigure any fan to any RPM you want. It's more of a fan controller than a fan hub. it's also about 3x the price.

If you plan to go dual aio at some point, I'd recommend the Quadro, because you can easily control RPM of each individual fan (or even use a splitter for 2 fans on one header so they run at the same RPM)

u/zupobaloop · 1 pointr/originalxbox

I have only tried sewing machine oil, and it didn't help. The bearing looks pretty ratchet though, so I wasn't surprised. I pick up a more heavy duty lubricant next time I'm at a hardware store, but only for curiosity's sake.

However, I also noticed that on that Xbox, the GPU Fan header is not throttled at all. It's blasting 100% all the time. I don't know if that's normal or if it's the underlying issue.

I happened to have a 40mm fan left over from some previous project, and that sits in the heat sink just perfectly. Same problem remains though... a fan flush with the sink blasting 100% is pretty loud. So I ordered a 3-pin y splitter and ran both fans off of the CPU fan header. I set XBMC to use the auto-cooling setting, and so far it's working pretty well. The fan's aren't any louder than the HDD, so I'm happy with it.

I don't play games or anything, so the GPU really outpacing the CPU seems unlikely, but of course I'll keep an eye on it for a while.

​

​

u/freakingwilly · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

>What is the theory of fan placement and different kinds of fans going in different parts of the case?

/u/dweller_12 provided the fan size and locations for your case. Using this information, you'd do a 120mm intake for the front and a 120mm exhaust in the back at the minimum. If you feel like you need additional airflow, add 2 120mm fans up top as exhaust and 2 120mm fans on the side as intake. This is overkill though.

If you have a 240mm AIO for your CPU, I'd recommend mounting it to the top as an intake and using the front and back fans as exhaust. Bringing cool air into the case will reduce CPU temps better than pushing warmer air out of the radiator.

> What happens if I put a HF fan in the front instead of a SP? are all front intake fans SP? Are SP fans louder?

The whole HF vs SP isn't worth worrying over (especially when it's a single degree of difference. You're better off using decent PWM fans or 3-pin fans connected to a fan controller like the Silverstone PWM Fan Hub.

> Is there a cooling/noise performance boost with bigger fans (120 vs 140)?

Larger fans can push the same amount of air as smaller fans with less noise. They can also push more air at the same noise level as smaller fans. This doesn't apply to you since you cannot fit 140mm fans in your case.

If noise is a concern, I mounted a 120mm basic Cooler Master fan in front of my 5.25" drive bays to cool my HDDs and SSD (used 3.5" to 5.25" brackets, did this to remove the 3.5" drive bays for better air flow). There is no noticeable noise difference with the additional fan, but all 3 drives have dropped 10°C.
> What other factors should I be concerned about?

Dust. Get fan filters and clean them out regularly. I don't have any pets, but I do have carpet in my bedroom that gets vacuumed never rather infrequently.

> I'm planning on getting budget Corsair fans with LEDs (not rgb because I have no mobo headers). Anything I should know?

Keep them clean.

u/YouAreWrongBot · 2 pointsr/buildapc

More quick googling...

>CPF04 is designed for enthusiasts with need for controlling numerous system fans.It is capable of expanding one motherboard PWM fan header to support up to eight fans. Powered directly by SATA cable from the computer power supply and filtered through a built-in 2200μF capacitor, the CPF04 can provide clean, stable voltage to any fan for optimal performance. Equipped with speed detection sensors for accurately controlling eight PWM fans simultaneously, it is an excellent solution for system fan expansion.

$13 USD on Amazon

Someone can correct me if i'm wrong, but that seems like what you're looking for. I think you just need to make sure that you plug that hub into the one controllable port.

I'd recommend doing a little research because i'm not 100% on that, though it sounds pretty good to me.

Edit: See my other comment. No PWM fans, no control.

u/Relating · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Phantom 410.. Probably the 240 I think? If so I had that case. Yeah with phantom that's the only way you only have one fan in front but the front fan doesn't do much other than cool the hard drive bays imo if you removed some of those bottom bays it'd let cool air go into the case more. H100i fan was loud af in my (410).

Yeah also change out corsair imo the stock are alright but!
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC and the cables that come with it limit the rpm to 3 different levels depending on how loud you want them and these are for radiators because they push more air than the other and much more quiet. If you don't care about rgb you can replace all other with 140mm and 120mm quiet editions noctua. If you want rgb for the others I recommend thermaltake riing fans (quiet edition) actually doesn't matter because if I remember they are all 4 pin so you can adjust in bios


Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KG8K5CY/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4WJBQAR06PMYQFMBRPGX

You could try these cables to the fans and they will lower the rpm depending on which one you use so it's not as loud. If it's the 410 there should be the fan controller on top if it's the 240

u/FakeNewUsername · 1 pointr/ender3

Honestly, I don't see a benefit in getting new hotend fans to replace the stock one. the only exception to this is if the old one is broken/damaged, or you want to silence your printer, in which case you would want to get a high quality noctua fan. but you need a buck converter. Teaching Tech made a step by step process on using a noctua and a buck converter, here


you can get a better part cooling fan, you can use the stock 4010 fan, new 5015 fans, or regular fans like the stock hotend fan. if you buy a 5015 fan and it blows your prints down for cools them too much, just turn down the fan speed in your slicer

u/Kagawanmyson · 2 pointsr/techsupport

Okay, one thing at a time:

1 - Your motherboard seems to only have one fan port for case fans, and the one for your CPU cooler. You don't necessarily need to plug in both of your case fans, but if you want to, you'll need to grab a splitter cable to turn that one plug into 2, [like this one on amazon.] (http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417755776&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+splitter) (Probably available more conveniently and cheaper at an electronics store, but I don't know what those stores are in the US [assuming you are] as I'm in the UK).

2 - Your motherboard's fan ports have 4 ports because they support PWM fans that can be speed controlled by software. Your fans don't have cables to support that, so they'll just run at 100% the whole time unless you remove them and replace the case fans with PWM case fans. Again, not a problem, won't harm them to run at 100% really, just might be a bit noisier than necessary. The plastic connector on the fans and the motherboard will likely only fit together one way around, if not, check the motherboard manual and that'll tell you which pin is the PWM pin, connect the cable so that that pin isn't connected to anything.

3 - Which audio cable? The one for the case audio ports? That should slide on as easily as the rest of the case cables for the power button etc, make sure you're putting it in the right place but it should go in fairly easily. Some parts do just take quite a push to get in at times.

4 - Your case might not have a firewire port, and nothing uses firewire these days anyway, you'll likely never use the port, don't worry about that.

5 - If the power cords melt, you've got bigger problems, things shouldn't get that hot in the case. Just tuck them out of the way somewhere, if you have cable management slots in the case on the less-open side, then pull them through there and just leave them out of the way.

u/priestwithknives · 2 pointsr/CR10

Hey there, if this is the fan for the heatbreak I replaced mine with this silent one, best part no solder needed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It comes with an omni join bead, you cut the wires to old fan and the wires to the noctua, place the connection wires to the mainboard in the bead and then the noctua fan wires and press down, it forms a connection. You'll need some plyers to get the pressure on that little bead but honestly been using it 2 months now and have had no issues, quiet and keeping the heat break at temperature.

https://noctua.at/en/omnijoin_adaptor_set

And yeah broken fan blades there seems to be a common problem, this guy made a pretty nice fan guard/fang you might be interested in that looks like it's using the same noctua fan also.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473423

u/MikeSD34 · 3 pointsr/homelab

I have the RS815 and the RS214, and they're really not bad. There's an option in the configuration to favor fast or cool, which varies the fan speeds to reduce noise. I had them in a cabinet (open back, definitely not sealed) in a bedroom for a while. I did eventually go so far as to replace the fans but I wouldn't strictly say it's necessary. Heavy load you're definitely going to notice it, but even at that it's still quieter than most 1U full depth servers, and I hardly noticed it under normal load, and nice and quiet idle. I was really happy when they came out with the shallow depth RS815, much easier to find a home for it.

u/a_random_cynic · 1 pointr/buildapc
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $329.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | NZXT Kraken X62 Liquid CPU Cooler | $158.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI Z270 SLI PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $129.89 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill TridentZ Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $179.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 960 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $127.98 @ NCIX US
Storage | Crucial MX300 1.1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $272.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Asus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB STRIX GAMING Video Card |-
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Glass ATX Mid Tower Case | $189.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $88.89 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Pressure 82.2 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Case Fan | Cooler Master MasterFan Pro 140 Air Flow 106.0 CFM 140mm Fan | $13.99 @ NCIX US
Monitor | AOC AG271QG 27.0" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | $590.98 @ Newegg
Mouse | Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Optical Mouse | $62.89 @ OutletPC
Headphones | Sennheiser G4ME ONE Black Headset | $158.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2506.98
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $2476.98
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-04-20 16:30 EDT-0400 |

- Better SSD config
- Value motherboard
- Low-noise fan config (3x AF for exhausts, 4x SP for push/pull intake)
Add a fan hub like this to control.
- IPS G-Sync monitor

I'd still recommend going for a 6+ core CPU, but with your priorities as stated, the 7700k is a better fit, for now.
GPU could be argued for a Gigabyte Aorus XE or Zotac AMP! Extreme instead, but that's ... meh.

That's baseline, though - some changes for cosmetics are always fine if you're willing to spend the money, so feel free to exchange the motherboard for anything you like better, 'same with fans if you want a specific colour or LEDs.

As mentioned, nothing really wrong with your original design except for the fans.
u/xp0d · 1 pointr/Amd

I installed my TRUE120 Rev C on ASUS PRIME X370-PRO that I put together for my cousin a while ago. Early production Ryzen 7 1700 chips needed a lot more vcore to go above 3.8GHz. I got the 1700 up to 3.9GHz. Clearance around the PRIME X370-PRO was ok but I did have to take a double look. I still have my original TRUE120 installed on my Sabertooth 990FX but don't have the new universal bracket so I can't see how it fits on my X570 AORUS Master or my X370 Professional Gaming (same as Taichi). Which motherboard are you considering ?

Amazon has the universal bracket for $12
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-100700553-Optional-Mounting-Installation/dp/B00UN05Q6A/

Amazon also has the TRUE Spirit 140 Power for $50
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO/

TRUE Spirit 140 Power has near identical cooling and noise levels to the NH-D14 (the mounting bracket looks to be the same).

Very detail discussion on OCN also Amazon custom feedback.
https://www.overclock.net/forum/246-air-cooling/1477785-thermalright-true-spirit-140-power.html

u/Kinsin101 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada
  1. Hey guys planning on upgrading my fans for my case, is this a good deal and/or reputable fans? Would like all noctuas but im just not rich enough sadly lol. my current cpu case is the nzxt source 530 also, been using for about 4 years and i clean it monthly but the ambient temps are starting to go up https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00NTUJTAK/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
  2. I'm thinking of parts for my next rig, currently waiting on zen 3, any good board recommendations? I've read that the bf450 tomahawk is good and the msi am4 carbon gaming mobo is good too, should I just wait in case new boards get launched? Trying to snag some deals

    ​
u/coldwar_7 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I agree that at least another fan would be worth it, but I might suggest these fans <ARCTIC F12 PWM PST - 120 mm PWM PST Case Fan - Five Pack | Cooler with Standard Case | PST-Port (PWM Sharing Technology) | Regulates RPM in sync https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTUJTAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ud18BbKFFXBFA>. I haven't used them myself, but they are a great price and have good reviews both on Amazon and independent reviewers.

u/aazar- · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

A liquid cooling system is great and gives you a lot of headroom to overclock. The H100i v2 has one of the best cooling performance for AIO liquid coolers. It can get particularly loud, not all the time but when the fans are running ~70% RPM. You can fix the noise issue completely if it really bothers you by buying 2 quiet 120MM SP (static pressure) fans such as these.

If you don't want to water cool the NH-D14, NH-D15, Cryorig R1 Ultimate, and the Dark Rock Pro 3 are great air coolers that perform near as well and are much more quiet (If you don't end up getting the replacement fans for the H100i). Its up to you, they are all around the same price and both have their pro's and con's.

You want to go with a 650 W PSU since you will be overclocking. It will provide you with enough headroom. Stick with the EVGA brand since they are very reliable.

Other than that man your build looks great.

u/REIGNx777 · 1 pointr/gamingpc

I figure some people will reccomend more expensive options, but I have been totally pleased with my Cooler Master fans that I picked up.

Here is the Amazon link (They come in 4-packs)

When I did research on fans to replace the stock ones in the Fractal R4, these ones seemed to present the best price / performance.

I am running 2 120mm and 1 140mm and, with a Scythe Gentle Typhoon on my H60 with a GTX 780 and my case is very very quiet.

I'm not overclocking or anything so I didn't need them to push tons of air, just to be efficient and quiet.

u/Nexdeus · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
  1. Control - PWM (4pin) vs Voltage based controllers (3pin and molex)

  2. PWM Fan hubs are small and cheap, I personally have 2 in mine and have 14 fans running off of them. Since they are PWM controlled, they increase in speed according to a fan curve that I have set, if the CPU and GPUs heat up. I use this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I

  3. RGB fans are pretty expensive, and I honestly don't like that most are not PWM controllable. I would rather use a single LED fan, or no LED fans and use other sources for lighting. Corsair AF 120 quiet editions, or SP 120 quiet editions are nice, effective, quiet, and cheap.

  4. 120mm are fine, what you want is a good balance of CFM and dB. CFM being how much airflow is pushed, dB meaning how loud they are.

u/krunchybacon · 1 pointr/buildapc

There's a few things, first of all Intel K series cpu's don't come with a cooler in the box, so you will need one. A good (but pricey) cpu cooler is the Noctua NH-D15. If you would like something more affordable the Cryorig H7 will work, although the temps will be higher than the former.

Yes, all desktop ram will fit into all desktop motherboards (sodimm or laptop ram will not).

The hard drive you selected doesen't have great reviews, for $8 more you can get a [WD Blue](https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Cache-Desktop-Drive-WD10EZEX/dp/B0088PUEPK

/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1537074431&sr=1-1&keywords=western+digital+-+caviar+blue+1tb+3.5%22+7200rpm+internal+hard+drive) or a Seagate Barracudda, both more reputable.

The cases you linked are good for their price, but you will most likely need 1-2 more case fans as they only come with 1. If you would like some cheap fans these will do, but they wont be as good as something like the Noctua NF-F12

Dont worry about asking questions! It's what we are here for :) I'm sure I missed something, so if you have any other questions make sure to ask!

Edit 1: Do you already have windows? If not make sure to but it, as you wont have an Operation System without it (Unless you want to run linux).








u/MIDNIGHTZOMBIE · 1 pointr/buildapc

Unless you're comfortable about overclocking, don't bother with DDR4 3400. It's a huge pain to configure DDR4 to run at the high Mhz that it advertises itself as.

You should try to find a 4x8GB 2400Mhz kit in the $100 range to get quad channel goodness instead.

Here is a 4x8GB 2400Mhz DDR4 kit for around $115 after the 15% off coupon.

Your motherboard only has 4 memory stick slots, so I recommend getting a large amount of ram now - 32GB in one quad channel kit. (If you use all 4 slots for 16 GB now, you'll have to buy all new sticks to have more ram in the future. If you get just two sticks now, getting two more in the future might have compatibility issues with quad channel support.)

You should follow the other people's advice and get a smaller SSD and a 1TB HDD. WD Black is a good choiice. This will save you money and make a better PC.

The case you have is great, but I recommend picking up a couple more fans to help with cooling. This is a fine budget choice. They have different color LED's too.


u/ismee · 1 pointr/DataHoarder

Thank you so much for the response and info!

I saw this review on Amazon. What do you think?

That person also links to the following products. How essential/necessary do you think they would be to the node-804? I've read some other review that don't highlight suggestions as the review above does. What are your thoughts?

u/SirDerpalott · 1 pointr/CR10

That's certainly one of them!

I prefer one that uses two 40x40x10mm fans so you can get it nice and quiet so something like this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2473423

If you do have a single blower fan laying around or on the way feel free to print that one as well! I'm sure it will work just as great just be a bit noisier.

Here is the link to the noctua fan I have two of now:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/

Let me know if you need more info!

u/WilliamFlinchbaugh · 4 pointsr/CR10

Honestly, I would just buy a new fan. It's probably not worth the trouble to fix the cheap Chinese loud fan. I bought the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX. It works fine, super quiet, no issues. Super easy to install, just follow this video. Hope I helped.

u/joebacca121 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I've added a second fan to my build to help cool the lower half (the GPU is long enough that there isn't ample airflow between upper and lower) but my MOBO only has one system fan connection. I bought a fan hub (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that says it supports fan control, but only monitors speed of 1 fan, it doesn't control speed at all and as a result both of my fans are spinning at 100% all the time. Does anyone else have this product and could give me some insight on how to control the fans with it, or have suggestions for another fan controller/method of controlling both fans with 1 sys_fan connection?

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah, if battlefield is your main game you will see little difference. I am sure as new games come out, support for a greater #of cores will continue to emerge. As silly as your #8 reason is, it pleases me to see. I went amd over intel on my sons "budget build" for that very same reason. I was not trying to knock you... just legitimately curious why you would possibly take such a hit for 20 bucks.

Other thoughts...
1: Hyper 212 - I have it with my i7 oc @ 4.1Ghz - idle in 30s C - max out in 50s C. I imagine if you OC you will be a bit hotter... if that is your plan I would prob go with a second fan for push/pull. I only have one fan on the heatsink.

2: PSU - love corsair power supplies... you have given yourself room to grow with that one & will likely be able to bring it with you to your next build too.

3: SSD - My samsung 840 was the most noticeable upgrade I have ever done. I didnt even get the 840 pro.

4: Your case would house these well http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-120mm-Silent-Value/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370807875&sr=8-2&keywords=coolmaster+fans

u/fourdots · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ditch the NH-D15, you can get the same performance out of a Thermalright TS140BW. (The True Spirit 140 BW is a bit hard to find these days, but the True Spirit 140 Power produces the same amount of noise and performs better. It's slightly large though. $55 on Amazon).

Some games see small advantages from high RAM frequencies, but it's very marginal. You could save a bit of money by dropping down to DDR4-2666 or whatever.

You're spending a bit more on the motherboard than you need to. Unless you need features specific to that board, drop down to a more basic Z170 board.

You're going overboard on the PSU. This is a ~400W build, even after overclocking you'd be fine with a 550-650W PSU. The only reason to go for 750W is if you're planning to add a second 1080 at some point.

You probably don't need a 950 Pro. Unless you're doing things that are heavily disk-bound, you will see very little advantage from it. You'll save a few seconds booting and opening programs. Even extrapolated out over the lifetime of the system I don't think that that's worth the premium price, but maybe you disagree.

u/DZCreeper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A single fan header can power multiple fans, you just need a splitter cable which is only 2-3 dollars.

Better case airflow means each individual fan can spin slower, reducing noise. Same principle behind aftermarket CPU coolers, extra surface area lowers noise.

To be honest, the Carbide 88R isn't a good case choice. The single stock fan and closed off front panel design will result in poor stock temperatures. I would strongly recommend a Fractal Design Focus G instead, which is similar in price. If you add a rear 120mm exhaust fan it is an excellent case. Arctic P12 is a decent cheap fan model, about $10.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5

I use that in my case, the first fan gives the motherboard an RPM signal, all of them run at the same PWM level, and they get power from the SATA connector.

A cheaper and less flexible option is just a cable:

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Computer-Extension-Converter-TeamProfitcom/dp/B07F8LV1BY

u/ScienceGeek386 · 1 pointr/Immersion_Cooling

LOL!!! > http://lmgtfy.com/?q=3+way+fan+splitter+amazon

I wonder how you did that hahah awesome! ok yeah that controller looks amazing I guess one of those and a three way spittle will do, I was looking onto some usb to 3/4 pin connector adapters that run at 5v which will bring down the speed of the fans by at least 60%. It will make it less noisy, I am thinking in using this controller for that though: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

which will get hooked on a 12v 2amp dc outlet : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NRXM6TH/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2J89ND18SD80N&psc=1

I was also thinking in using a potentiometer to increase the voltage if I want to increase the speed, but the one fan controller already comes with 4 potentiometers so perhaps I need a 12 dc power connector with an output of at least 4 A to be safe and account for the blue LED... what do you think?

u/TaedusPrime · 4 pointsr/sffpc

For my ncase, I use a h75 on my 6600k and a h55 with a kraken g10 on my gtx 1080. It's all pretty dang quiet, not loud enough for me to comment on. I tied the h75 for my cpu to its own fan curve and the rest of the fans are on a Silverstone pwm splitter.

So my 2 case fans, 120mm h55 fan and the fan for the kraken g10 are on the same curve. When my gpu throttles up, the case fans do too. It's perfect like it is and I'm not gonna touch it.

Fans:

1 120 noctua in the bottom front slot pulling air into the kraken fan for gpu.

1 92mm slim noctua for rear of case.

2 noctua 120s for each aio cooler.

You can use a good air cooler but in my case my cpu never really gets warm enough to throttle high enough to make much noise. I like the look of the dual fans on each aio rad when you pop the side off :)


Here's the fan hub, it's really small, I tuck it into the front of case above front of gpu.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VNW556I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483058552&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silverstone+pwm+fan+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41yV5kjgjRL&ref=plSrch

u/AquaDigger · 1 pointr/JDM_WAAAT

Thanks for the detailed reply! Full disclosure, I bent a capacitor while I was pulling the motherboard out to clean it out properly (having done this 6-8 times previously with no issues). Replaced it, took it to a computer tech to see if they could fix it, no joy. Have had no issues with it before then.

​

Crazy how a $20 CPU can outperform a ~$350 10 year old CPU.

​

Being in Australia some of the parts are different/higher costs, some questions.

CPU: Will the X650 suffice? $17, passmark 7388? Cheapest x5670 I can find is $36.

Drive bay converter: Is this the same/similar (they only have 1 available atm)? If I can't get that one, is something like this ok?

Fans: Should I be looking at the F series in the ARCTIC fans? Work out at about $11/fan. Is there a good balance in number of fans for cooling/quietness?

CPU Cooler: CM 212 Hyper Black edition is currently $136 on Amazon AU. Is this just the RGB version (it's available more readily in Aus) and is this the older version ($16 cheaper). Is there something I should specifically be looking for to get a quiet cooler or is it just down to reviews/experience?

GPU: So I just need this for a display out, not needed to help with transcoding? Something like this 8400GS would work, 256mb? I assume used is not an issue.

​

I might have backed myself into a corner with Xpenology as my drives are currently setup in using SHR configuration, so the only way to access them (as far as I know) is through another Synology device, or using Xpenology?

​

Thanks again! You've been more than helpful! Sorry for all the extra questions.

u/Hackronym · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'd replace the fans though. Corsair stock fans generally aren't bad, but the H55 is old and low. I have these SP 120mm fans in push/pull. I control it with software, but they are on a graphics card anyway so they only really ever stay on low. I also have 4 of these on my H100i GTX and I've never had my CPU go over 40 degrees, but I'm not sure if that's the fans or the rad.

If you're not bothered about having 2 fans or what they look like (since it's in a HTPC case) then check out the Noctua NF-F12. They have some fans in grey or black/brown, but you won't see this in that case. It's a really good fan.

It's worth pointing out that I don't know how easy it would be to route the pipes from a closed loop cooler in that case. I don't have it physically, so I wouldn't want you to purchase something you can't use. Also if you want some 80mm fans, I can recommend these, I've got them in my microATX machine and they're pretty solid.

u/mjcov · 2 pointsr/AskBattlestations

idk, it's not $40, but I just got one of these doodads because my new heatsink (Cryorig H7) blocks one of the fan headers I was using. It works. I don't know if there's any benefit, but it powers all the fans directly from the PSU instead of via the motherboard, but gets the pwm and fan speed signals from the mobo. If your fans don't all match though, it only reads the speed from the one that's plugged in to the designated port, but the PWM signal still gets passed through so they'll all spin at their correct speed.

Oh, also, if you have a silverstone PSU, the short cable set PP05-E is good to reduce cable clutter.

If your keyboard has cherry-compatible switches, these are some nice keycaps for it. If it's not a mechanical keyboard (looks like it might be from the pic) then get one.

u/ZambonieDrivor · 3 pointsr/PS4

PowerA Charging Station - 2 controllers, not little kid friendly, as it has a spring to load/unload the controller and kids will just pull it off. If the spring is in the incorrect position, it can be difficult to put the controller on charge.

Collective Minds PSVR Stand and Charging Station - 2 controllers, 2 move controllers, and 1 USB slot for headset or PSVR AIM controller.

PlayStation Platinum Headset - Went through 2 PS Gold headsets due to weak plastic frame. Platinums feel more sturdy. Haven't used too much to test durability. Great sound, but I am not an audiophobe.

PSVR AIM Controller - Got it bundled with Firewatch. Read that it felt good in hands. I thought it felt a little awkward, but definitely easy enough to use. Just have to get used to the button layout.

AC Infinity Fans - These are 80mm fans. It comes with 2 fans in parallel that are powered over USB. I don't use my PS4's USBs, because those are taken up with other accessories, so I have it attached to my surround sound receiver. One fan pulling air from the back of the Pro, and the other directing the fan out of the shelf area. I recommend these, as I've noticed the spin up on my Pro has significantly went down.

u/dbrez8 · 2 pointsr/Beekeeping

Here's an album with more pics https://imgur.com/a/v5x6h8m
Components

  • 2 Deep hive bodies - Mine are 8frame and juuust fit a 5gal bucket. 10 frame will fit more comfortably
  • 1 piece of foam insulation for the bottom and some pieces of wood to keep the bucket ~6in above the bottom for air circulation. Carboard for the top.
  • Temperature Controller $17 - includes a thermometer. I set it at 100F
  • [2 variable speed PC fans with US Connection] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJ2J2K0) $15 & an old USB charger - For circulating air in the chamber and keeping the temp more consistent throughout. I put one fan blowing on low across the bulb and the other sucking air from the top and sending it down. There are probably cheaper fans too.
  • Outlet box, Outlet, & outlet Cover - I used a GFCI outlet for a bit of added safety.
  • Lamp chord & 75w incandescent bulb & piece of tin foil - First I tried a 40w bulb but it wouldnt get the chamber above 90F. Foil is to put between the bulb and bucket to avoid a hot spot on the bucket.
  • Some romex or old lamp/extension chords to cut up and wire together the controller, outlet box, and lamp
  • Wood stirring paddle $10 - 5gal of honey is pretty hard to stir. This beast gets the job done

    lmk if I can help with the wiring or anything. It's pretty straightforward. Enjoy!
u/ZeusThunder369 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ah! Yeah a hub is very different than a controller, and I'd definitely suggest going that route if you're using 4+ fans.

Here is the one I always use: http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Useful Info:

  • Hub gets its power from a SATA cable

  • Easiest way to install is with Velcro on the back of the case

  • One PWM cable connects from the hub, to a PWM header on your motherboard

  • One of the PWM hub headers is the "control". It uses that fan to control all of the other fans connected to the hub.

  • Worth mentioning, you do need to be using PWM fans to control the speed through this hub. 3 pin DC fans will work, you just won't be able to control their speed at all.

    For software, use SpeedFan if your motherboard manufacturer doesn't include software to do this already (most do). Also you can look into controlling from the UEFI based on temperature settings.

    The basics for all fan control software is:

  • 'Once Y hits X temp, change fan speed to Z%'

  • 'Manually change fan speed to Z%'
u/TayG0 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

In regards to sound, the mods I have done:

  • Printed and added feet dampeners, compatible with the Z-brace mod. These made a VERY noticable difference.
  • Replaced heatblock fan with a 40mm Noctua fan.
  • Replaced control box fan with 120mm Noctua fan, using a [printed adapter.]
    (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1590987)

    The mods I plan to do:

  • Either remove the PSU fan entirely, or replace it with a noctua fan. It is the main source of noise in the control box, something I realized AFTER replacing the rear fan 🙃. People say the 120mm fan mod provides enough airflow to cool the PSU with the original fan, and top psu case, removed.
  • Install stepper motor dampers on X and Y axis motors. Lots of reports of these making a big difference.
  • Reinforce the Ikea Lack table I have it sitting on, or replace the table completely. I've realized those tables contribute significantly to wobbling of the printer, as well as reverberation of any noises it puts out.
u/blandreth94 · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

This is reddit, of course I'd be happy to answer your questions!

I sourced mine from Amazon, they're running about $13 right now free shipping with prime, which is less than the ~17 I payed in Feb. I believe I bought 4 in total, one for each stepper, and one for my PS.

I did use lawsy's design, this one to be specific.

I got my bearings from Misumi USA when they had their $150 free deal going on. They were the LMU-N8's.

In that same order I ordered new rods for the x and y axis. The PSFU8 shaft specifically, two 290mm long and two 310mm long. I would recommend getting new ones no matter what as the stock ones are pretty terrible, especially if you've been using the brass and HDPE "bearings" for a while. When I had my printer all apart, I realized that the stock rods weren't even straight and were a bit oversized.

All the upgrades I've done have made my printer 10x better than it was stock, but to get that I have invested a bit into it, probably in the range of ~$200, including fans, linear bearings, bowden conversion, sealed acrylic case, and heated basalt bed. I've created parts that rival or beat parts from much nicer printers, including a uPrint and industrial stratasys at my uni.

Feel free to reply with any more questions

u/Crowbar_Abortion · 2 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

Just gonna copy paste a comment I have made before, however this is a better video that shows a complete setup. I was lazy so I just hooked my fan controllers up to an old media PC just to get them moving at the moment.


I too just got started doing my own flavors last week. After I got in everything it dawned on me I would need some sort of mixing or steeping process as I am to impatient. I opted to go for the DIY magnetic mixing table for my needs. Now mine won't have heat like the nice single units on amazon and such do, but it will allow me to mix up to 8 different flavors simultaneously.

Simplest video I could find showing basic principles

Parts I had to buy:

4 port PC Fan Controller (X2)

Magnetic Stir Bars


Parts I already had:

4 Pack PC Fans (X2) I had already bought these for my PC builds earlier and bought what I consider to be nicer fans and went with Cooler Master. If I were buying new for this project, I would probably just go with Rosewill brand. Also upon building I ended up sticking with mostly 80mm fans instead of 120mm. I had thought the wider center may be needed on the fan but thats not the case.

Neodymium Magnets for the fans (X2) I already had some of these as well in the form of magnets I salvaged from old Hard Drives. If I didn't have those to tear apart, I would buy these instead.

So as you can see for me the mixing table only took an investment of around $30 because of what I had access to. However if you have any friends that do IT work it is hard to believe they wouldn't have old PC fans and busted IDE hard drives they wouldn't just give you. Also you could cut it down to 4 or even 1 fan to start with, and extrapolate from there.

u/Pastoolio91 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

If you plan on doing any heavy lifting with the Pi4, I'd definitely check out the MicroConnectors RAS-PCS46 as it's the only case I've found that supports 40mm fans straight out of the box. I ordered a Noctua 40x40x10mm fan to go with it, as well as a Noctua 40x40x20mm fan to try out too (want to see how much difference 10mm extra of fan blade height makes). If you order the Noctua fans, make SURE you get the 5V ones and not the 12V ones, unless you don't care about powering it from the Pi directly. I'll post links for them at the bottom of this post.

As for info on cooling, there are some excellent videos on YouTube, with one of th best being the series from Explaining Computers. He gives lots of charts and info, plus try multiple cooling solutions. Also mentioned that he should have the new cooling video done soon, so I'm personally really looking forward to seeing what Chris Barnatt cooked up for the Pi 4.

Have you checked out any reviews of IC Graphite? It was reviewed by Linus Tech Tips, JayzTwoCents, Gamers Nexus as a replacement for thermal paste on traditional PC CPU's, but all found that IC Graphite is a horrible replacement for traditional thermal paste. With a Pi4, you might be able to get away with using it if you have some active cooling going, which is likely the approach I'll be taking (except usng Artic thermal pads as I already have those on hand). I do plan on doing an experiment with my Pi 4's where I use Arctic thermal pads on one, and ArcticSilver 5 thermal paste on another, with both the same heatsink and fan, to compare how well pads stack up to paste for the Pi.



Also I found this insane RPi cooling tower that has a full radiator with copper pipes and everything - it seems a little overkill but is only $20: https://www.seeedstudio.com/ICE-Tower-CPU-Cooling-Fan-for-Raspberry-pi-Support-Pi-4-p-4097.html


MC RAS-PCS46 Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-Stackable-Raspberry-Enclosure-Heatsinks/dp/B07MQXRGZR

Noctua 40mm fans:

40x40x10mm: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Bearing-NF-A4X10-FLX-5V/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=noctua+40mm&qid=1562742609&s=electronics&sr=1-7

40x40x20mm: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-5V-3-Pin-Premium/dp/B072Q3CMRW/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=noctua+40mm&qid=1562742609&s=electronics&sr=1-8

u/__PETTYOFFICER117__ · 1 pointr/buildapcsales
  1. Yeah, I'm pretty sure you could even fit 3 140s...

  2. I have an 8-way fan splitter since I have too many fans to run off my mobo, which also helps with cable management... so it reaches to that, which is in the back section of the case. I imagine they'd still reach without the splitter, but IDK for sure. If nothing else I'm sure fan extension cables could be had for cheap.

    This is the splitter I'm using, BTW. If you're wanting to cram your case full of fans, I absolutely recommend it. It's pretty overkill, but makes things so much easier.
u/hiryuux · 3 pointsr/buildapcforme
Here you go:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $176.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | ASRock - AB350 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $83.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2800 Memory | $65.99 @ Newegg
Storage | ADATA - Premier Pro SP600 256GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $84.99 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB ACX 2.0 Video Card | $144.99 @ SuperBiiz
Case | Deepcool - DUKASE WHV2 ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CXM 450W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $26.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24F1ST DVD/CD Writer | $17.84 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Keyboard | Redragon - K551 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | EagleTec - KG010 Wired Gaming Keyboard | $39.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $866.63
| Mail-in rebates | -$60.00
| Total | $806.63
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-13 03:09 EDT-0400 |

I'd probably spend the extra $49 to up the RAM to 16GB (faster ones too).

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/T9Gj4D/gskill-memory-f43200c16d16gvk

Solid mid-range gaming build with a Ryzen quad-core (4 cores, 8 threads), decent motherboard with a lot of features for the price, 8GB of RAM, 256GB SSD (I did not include a 1TB HDD, but budget another $40 or so if you need extra storage), GTX 1050 Ti 4GB will easily max out the games on your list, modular power supply, and a nice Deepcool case.

Also, thinking about the case I would probably recommend getting two 120mm fans to mount in front (the Deepcase Dukase v2 only has one rear exhaust fan), and perhaps two 120mm on top. This Arctic F12 PWM pack would be perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/F12-PWM-PST-Value-pack/dp/B00NTUJTAK

Edit- made a change to the keyboard so it would match your mouse color scheme (black/blue).
u/FrankeyMankey · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Is it better to use a fan splitter cable like this https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ that connect directly to the board or get direct PSU fan cables/passthroughs like this https://www.amazon.com/Alpha-Omega-148-0027-Adapter/dp/B000BSJGL0/ref=pd_sim_23_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BVYPBTJHZB4KKFH4C2HJ to add more fans than there are mobo fan headers? (Note: I'm not sure if either brand is reliable and will do research on what company makes the best of those cables)

Also, why are LED fans cheaper than non LED fans?

u/jesteronly · 4 pointsr/BurningMan

Look for the highest cfm fan that you can fit on your bucket. It will force circulate more air than your basic computer fan. More air flow = more evap = cooler. I went with this guy as an upgrade from last year, and it was quite the beast though my water pump gave out, which sucked. The fan worked as an amazing air circulator, so it wasn't all for naught. You could also bump up to the 14mm fan if you really want a bump up in performance and are okay with making some minor tweaks to your cooler bucket top

You can also try to have a fan direct on your cooler and another that you can aim attached to the output tube so that you can push the air in the direction that you would like.

u/Al_Misurata · 6 pointsr/buildapcsales

I just built a living room PC in the black version of this case, it's everything I hoped it would be.

Fit my micro ATX board with a double fan 1050ti and a Cryorig tower cooler on the CPU. The double chamber design leaves plenty of room for cables in the back, and it can fit up to 3 HDD's and 3 SSD's in the tool free slots.

I'd say the only real downsides are the plastic window(not as clear as tempered glass, has a blueish tint and scratches easily), overall the metal seems kind of thin and bendable, and no real soundproofing. Stock fans(3pin) are loud at full speed, I used a fan controller to run all the fans at around 30%, and they're pretty quiet.

https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE

u/Excal2 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I have these for my CPU cooler:

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2

They are damn near silent. $16 per fan.

If you want to compare to other fan products, here's what you want to look for:

  • CFM (cubic feet per minute) - how much air does it push?

  • Decibel levels - how much noise does it make at various speeds?

    You should look for ones like the fans I linked, that have rubber gaskets and liners on them if you can. It prevents the fans from rattling against the case.

    Noctua is also a very good company for quiet, high performance fans.

    Final note, you might want to consider another solution for a fan controller if the ones you have won't go below 35% and you want them to go lower. It sounds like the mobo software controller doesn't really want to do that. There are plenty of hardware and (free) software based fan controllers that could resolve that issue.
u/beachandbyte · 2 pointsr/CR10

I've spliced multiple accessories including led lighting into the 12v terminals of the cr-10x without any issue. Currently I'm printing with my bed at 65 degrees and print head at 210. I'm in the US on 120v drawing ~(2.6 after heating -3.15 amps during heating)/~220 watts. You can easily power multiple devices off the 12v terminals without any issue.

The readings above include includes:

12v Noctua Fan - https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

12v Proximity Sensor (ABL) - https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-LJC18A3-B-Z-1-10mm-Capacitance-Proximity/dp/B0756XDQM4

5v Lighting - Partial strip - https://www.amazon.com/Lighting-Control-Findyouled-Backlight-Monitors/dp/B01M28RKH5


I'm using a mix between Marlin 1.1.8 and the custom firmware provided by www.th3dstudio.com. (If your considering doing ABL and your not super familiar with electronics I highly recommend th3dstudio.com It's important to support the engineers/developers that bring the amazing improvements in 3d printing to the masses)

I usually use octoprint with pi3 or pi zero but for these readings I had nothing plugged into the micro usb port.

If you have any questions or need some more information about how I do my wiring I would be happy to help!

u/jor_c · 1 pointr/buildapc

Makes perfect sense.
Thanks a lot.

If i were to rotate the cpu cooler, would i have to reapply thermal paste, or should it still be good? (built on friday).

Also would this fan work?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00650P2ZC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1
Or
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01LHYI374/?tag=pcp0f-20&th=1

I may start off by only buying one then a second one at a later time. If i do that, would you recommend me placing it at the top red arrow or the bottom red arrow.

Thanks a lot friedmn!

u/Uesugi1989 · 1 pointr/watercooling

Interesting info, can you give a link or something for these comparisons. I am planning for my first loop when the 1080ti comes out and i will be using 140mm fans and rads ( a 420mm and a 280mm cooling only my 6700k @ 4.6 and the card ). Out of all the fans out there, the corsair sp 120 are by far the best looking ones for me, however there aren't at 140mm, only the led ones. If however there isn't really that much of a difference, i may as well get the af 140mm from corsair.

EDIT: Almost forgot, great job with the pc, it looks great

u/ERIFNOMI · 1 pointr/buildapc
I got you down $100.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $234.53 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $52.90
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card | $369.99 @ Newegg
Case | NZXT S340 Elite (White) ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1236.16
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $1196.16
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-15 23:08 EST-0500 |

PCPP doesn't show links for that cooler (possibly because there are a couple revisions and a few names for it), but it's damn good and can be found on Amazon.


If you're willing to budge on the case, we're within $60.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $234.53 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 Direct 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $52.90
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $102.98 @ Newegg
Memory | GeIL EVO POTENZA 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2133 Memory | $49.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $97.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.33 @ OutletPC
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Windforce OC Video Card | $369.99 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro M ATX Mid Tower Case | $54.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | SeaSonic G 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $88.58 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1211.16
| Mail-in rebates | -$50.00
| Total | $1161.16
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-02-15 23:11 EST-0500 |

There's another $20 to be had if you go for a shittier SSD and $10 on the HDD. I wouldn't do the former but the latter is no big deal. WD Blues aren't anything to write home about anyway. That gets us real close. You could go to a non-modular PSU, but I wouldn't.

There's no way to drop $200 while keeping all of the expensive bits. The parts you were OK with changing only make up like $450 of the build and a lot of it you can't go much lower than what you have anyway.
u/PonkyBreaksYourPC · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Urgh that post was a mess lol, here is a cleaned up version

http://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-Cooling-Fan/dp/B00650P2ZC

2 of them in the front

http://www.amazon.com/Setting-Anti-Stall-Bearing-NF-S12A-FLX/dp/B00BEZKX8Y/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1451758087&sr=1-2&keywords=Noctua+NF-S12A

1 of them in the back.

You may need to plug one of the NF F12s into the CPU fan header, but only do that if the bios has user fan control or else it will speed up and slow down thinking it's attached to the CPU cooler.

If it doesn't, just plug it into the 3 pin on the motherboard. If they are too loud, use the low noise adapters that come with them. The S12A won't be loud, but on max speed the NF F12s could be a little loud, not that bad but they are pretty fast on max speed as they are aimed for use on radiators normally, but they are great in restricted openings too and their performance to noise ratio is excellent.




u/cdmtx01 · 1 pointr/Corsair

I have the same case, fans and aio. Temps are awesome! I actually don't have the commander pro so mine is a rat's nest with the two separate hubs that came with the fans. I did use this sata powered fan splitter which made my life a little easier.

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://imgur.com/gallery/AexkzAX

Good luck!

u/Figure_1 · 1 pointr/Motors

Hi again.

​

I'm not sure of your location but I came up with the following:

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX @Amazon.co.uk - This is the original link called out in the blog post.

NF-A4x10 FLX @CCLOnline.com - £10.74 with an option to collect locally.

Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX @ShinyHardware.co.uk - Currently out of stock but it's £13.99 with free UK delivery.

​

Sunon HA40101V4-000U-999 @Digikey.co.uk - Obsolete

HA40101V4-1000U-A99 (replacement for HA40101V4-000U-999) @Digikey.co.uk £3.63 If you're really looking for an inexpensive solution, this should be the original equipment replacement fan for your unit. I don't believe this fan comes with any connectors (just two stripped wires) so you'll have to buy a new connector or reuse the one off the old fan.

u/TheArkratos · 1 pointr/watercooling

How about this?
Skip Ek rads, get two of these Black ice 360 gts: http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html
Pick up 3 sets of twin packs of sp120 quiet editions: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495725662&sr=8-5&keywords=120mm+sp120
Get a supremacy mx: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-mx-cpu-waterblock-acetal.html
That alone will get you better cooling and save you 35 dollars before the 10% off
Secondly, if you want to save more, go with barbs instead of compression fittings and use zip ties.
third, order from performance-pcs during the sale and save an extra 10%.
And yes, you can fit both of those rads in a define S, I have dual 360s in mine.
Edit: typo

u/TeeJS · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Just print the shroud, and then add a 40mm fan of your choice. I'm partial to this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_s7rUAb3HS4417 , as it's super quiet and powerful. You'll need re-wire the new fan in as well. I usually install a female socket right above where the wiring exits the "tower" to make future fan replacements easier.

u/SimplyAlegend · 2 pointsr/buildapc

It can happen, but not for 2 fans unless you are having some fans that drain a buttload of power. As a rule of thumb, 1 A at 12 V, so 12 W is fine for most fan headers.

Just to make it sure, are you sure that the fan header on your Mobo is a full PWM header and not a fake one?

If its full PWM; you can get a PWM splitter. Swifftech, Silverstone and Phobya sell those. They take the PWM signal of a single header and splitt it for up to 8 ports, but the power comes from a Sata or Molex power connector.

http://www.swiftech.com/8-WayPWMsplitter-sata.aspx

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00VNW556I?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E

u/CrisKrossed · 5 pointsr/buildapc

My motherboard only has one system fan header, but I have two system fans. Would I be able to use something like this to safely use both case fans that come with my corsair 350d? I have this motherboard. I can't find the amp values for the case fans, and don't want to fry/melt the on board fan header from the initial power draw.

u/fuhzbot · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Would I need more than the 1 fan that comes with the Corsair 100R? I'm building my first PC either Friday or Saturday and I completely forgot about fans. If I need more what would be a somewhat cheap fan/fans I could get? I was looking at these but I have no idea about fans in general. If it's important here's my build. (also if the fans I linked either won't work or aren't good I'd prefer if the fans would either be not LED or red if possible).

Also, if I need more fans what would be the best setup for them? I've heard 1 in the front and 1 in the back is pretty good, but I know there's also spots for them on the top too, so I'm not entirely sure. Thanks!

u/niglor · 1 pointr/Amd

You can still use splitters. I have two fans on my cpu cooler and five in the case. I only have two fan headers with PWM control, which is the best type of fan control (the other one is voltage control).

So the CPU fans use a 2-way PWM splitter and connect to a motherboard fan header with PWM control.

Four of the case fans (3x front 1x back) all connect to a 4-way PWM splitter. The 4-way splitter then connects to the last motherboard PWM fan header, plus a separate molex connector for power as 4 fans can be a bit much for one motherboard header.

The final fan is an exhaust fan positioned in the door, it's connected to the motherboard directly using one of the fan headers that are voltage controlled.

u/Caanon565 · 1 pointr/buildapc

You can use splitters like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B46XKKQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 2 way splitter linked, if you look under "color" there is a 3 way one too.

I have both a 3 way and 2 way. They should work fine unless you have high speed fans that draw a lot of current, you can check the Amps your fans draw on the specs and as long as the total(for all fans on splitter) is less that like 1 Amp for a header it should be fine.


Also I happen to have your motherboard.

CPU optional apparently just matches whatever the CPU fan is putting out, so it isn't individually controllable.

You can use AIO pump as a fan header and control the speed, but not as well as other fan headers, and if I remember you can't have a fan on there stop/shut off.

Case 1, 2 and the M.2 fan header at the bottom are fully controllable fan headers, so I would suggest using those 3, with splitters for whatever you want to do.

I recently Upgraded to an Define R6 so I'm just using the included fan hub on that for the fans that I always have turned on, and then use Case 1+2 with splitters for fans that are normally off but turn on when the system heats up.

u/FrontpageWatch · 1 pointr/longtail

>EDIT:
>
>I can understand the use of referral links and lots of people say they don't care. Nor do I honestly, except he wasn't contributing to this subreddit. He posted the exact setup 9 months (and 8 months) ago, this means he's here for the sole purpose to gain profit.
>
>Sure, he spent a lot of money, it's not disruptive, it's victimless, it doesn't hurt anyone and it's not a big deal. But it seems as if he's only here to earn money, he didn't even show a walkthrough of the computer build, he isn't a regular, he doesn't contribute to discussion. He posted multiple times like I've already mentioned and nothing has changed in all those posts.
>
>He's not here to show people his setup, he didn't even build anything. He's here to profit off us. Multiple posts of the same setup with all the affiliate links in every post, including links to something like a phone...
>
>Also, the problem is links like this act as infections. For approximately 24 hours (I think) after you've clicked a referral link, he will get a portion of the sale on anything you buy, so if you click a link to see the price of the something or investigate, he will earn money off everything you purchase in the next 24 hours off Amazon.
>
>_
>
>So earlier today I came across this post.
>
>I thought it was a bit suspicious how he documented absolutely every part of this "build" even though it isn't a build, it's a battlestation.
>
>He has since removed all information from his Reddit post, presumably after I commented about the Amazon links found in the post.
>
>It didn't look right because he provided links to every single item in this setup. All Amazon affiliate links, for him to make money off us.
>
>Not so bad though, right? Well, his Reddit username is "BlackWhite01", his Imgur username is "blackandwhitebattlestation", and he's been posting this absolutely identical set up on both Imgur and Reddit multiple times for a year.
>
>He did not intend to show off his battlestation, or even his computer build, he intended to come here and make money off of /r/battlestation and /r/buildapc mainly, but he's posted to a lot of other subreddits as well - presumably to pay off this setup and the ridiculous chair ($1,500).
>
>What really pisses me off is that he's also included affiliate links to stupid products like his phone. His phone?! It's fucking /r/buildapc.
>
>Alright, so there's a run down of all his Imgur and Reddit post history.
>
>Please do not click on any of the Amazon links, I've posted all items without any affiliations below.
>
>--
>Imgur
>--
>
> Submitted Imgur albums!
>
>
Imgur Album 1.
>
> Imgur Album 2
>
>
Imgur Album 3
>
> Imgur Album 4
>
>
Imgur Album 5
>
> Imgur Album 6
>
>
Imgur Album 7
>
> Imgur Album 8
>
>--
>Reddit
>--
>
>
/u/BlackWhite01 - archive link: /u/BlackWhite01
>
> Reddit Post 1
>
>
Reddit Post 2
>
> Reddit Post 3
>
>
Reddit Post 4
>
> Reddit Post 5
>
>
Reddit Post 6
>
> Reddit Post 7
>
>
Reddit Post 8
>
> Reddit Post 9
>
>
Reddit Post 10
>
>* Reddit Post 11
>
>_

>
>
>Below is a list of all the items found in the pictures. These links are NOT affiliate, I spent an enormous amount of time to provide you with the unaffiliated links.
>
>This subreddit and others shouldn't be focused on making money, it should be the exact opposite, just sharing our hobbies, enthusiasm, skills and to have open discussions without the aim being to profit.
>
>Screw this guy for trying to profit.
>
>Items
>--
>
>PC Specs:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>----|----|----
>Processor | Intel i7-4790k | Link
>Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | Link
>Storage | Samsung 850 Pro 256GB | Link
>Motherboard | ASUS ATX DDR3 1600 LGA 1150 | Link
>CPU Cooler | Corsair Hydro Series | Link
>Video Card | ASUS GTX 980 STRIX 4GB | Link
>Case | NZXT H440 | Link
>PSU | Corsair RM750 | Link
>PSU Sleeved Cables | Corsair Power Cable Kit | Link
>
>Fans:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Front Intake | Noctua NF-F12 | Link
>CPU Cooler | Corsair SP120 | Link
>Rear Exhaust | Corsair AF140| Link
>
>Lights:
>
>Name | Link
>---|---|----
>RGB Lights | Link
>White Lights | Link
>
>Accessories:
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Monitors | Dell UltraSharp 23.8" | Link
>Mounts | VideoSecu Articulating Arm | Link
>Mouse | Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse | Link
>Mousepad | Zalman Accessory AMP1000 | Link
>Keyboard | Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz | Link
>Phone | Motorola Moto X 16GB | Link
>Phone Stand | Cooler Master JAS | Link
>Speakers | Harman Kardon SoundSticks | Link
>Webcam | Logitech HD Pro Webcam | Link
>Headphones | Samsung LEVEL | Link
>Headphone Holder | Ikea Bjärnum Folding Hook | Link
>Strip for Holder | Command Mounting Refill Strips | Link
>White Videocard Backplate | Performix 11207 Plasti-Dip | Link
>RAM Light Bar | Corsair Dominator Platinum LightBar Kit | Link
>
>Other:
>
>
>
>Type | Name | Link
>---|---|----
>Desk | Euro Style Donald Desk | Link
>Chair | Embody Chair by Herman Miller | Link
>Clock | Modern Clocks | Link
>Lights | Philips 259982 | Link
>Wire Cover | Omnimount CMK | Link
>
>Triple Monitor Wallpapers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

u/zonedguy · 6 pointsr/DataHoarder

You can definitely stick with the Fractal series. I did because I couldn't have a loud, unsightly machine setup anywhere in my home. I have my main system w/ 10 Drives + 2 SSDs + 3 NVME drives in an R6. That has a DAS connected with 19 drives inside an R5; 8 stock bays + 3 in 2x5.25 bay adapter + extra 3 drive cage + extra 5 drive cage.

As you are in Europe, you might not even have to pay crazy shipping charges to buy spare drive cages from https://www.fractal-design-shop.de/Define-R5_1. In the US I had to source the extra drive cages from r/hardwareswap but that proved to be easier than I expected. Here is a pic I took before I added the 2nd 5-bay drive cage: https://imgur.com/a/TWL8IB1

Edit: Request for more info...

I have not done a build log as I am not yet "finished" with the build, but it looks like there is sufficient demand for parts info so here it goes:

I have an R6 for my main NAS server loaded with the motherboard, 10 3.5 drives and one SSD. The R5 has two extra drive cages (3 + 5) as well a 2x5.25-to-3x3.5 bay adapter.

The expansion cards I use are:

  • 1x LSI 9210-8i with SAS to SATA cables for 8 of the 10 internal drives in the R6. The other 2 + SSD use SATA ports on the motherboard.

  • 1x LSI-9207-8e connected via 8088 cables to two HP SAS expanders powered in the R6 by riser cards which connect to the drives with the same SAS to SATA cables as above.

    Additional parts I used:

  • An SFX PSU is important so you can fix the extra drive cages. Don't skimp on this one. You don't need a ton of Watts (I'm using a 600W Gold) but you need quality, you are hooking up thousands of dollars of drives to it!

  • Power splitters: One & Two

  • Power switch to turn on the DAS PSU and reset it any time you need to take the NAS offline (DAS always must be powered on first)
  • Fan controller for powering fans in the DAS

    More inspiration can be found here: https://www.serverbuilds.net/16-bay-das
u/justinmai · 2 pointsr/watercooling

The new corsair HD 120s look sick and offer great static pressure but... cost a kidney. :/ As for a fan controller, I would highly recommend the silverstone pwm fan controller ( Amazon ) and software like speedfan to control the rpms. Jayztwocents has a good tutorial on the software as it is a bit confusing at first. Best of luck!

u/neomancr · 1 pointr/hometheater

No. I'm pretty sure you've got an issue with a bad fan which is the only part I can think of that could make that sound. Does it come and go as it heats up? It does sound like you will need to replace the fan asap before it dies and in the meantime if you want to use it you have to get a set of auxiliary fans. Heat kills.

Mine makes a smooth fan like sound but also goes into turbo mode when the room is hot especially since it's ceiling mounted which is where heat accumulates so I use these:

Check this out at Amazon.com - AC Infinity MULTIFAN S5, Quiet... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IJ2J2K0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

To help reduce heat and stress on the fan. They work in unison and keep the average temperature consistent.

At mid speed (there are 3 or 4 different speed settings) you can't hear them over the sound of the pj fan running at normal speed and it completely eliminated the SHHHHHHWOOOOOOFFFSHHHHHHWOOOOF sound of the fan switching speeds for me.

But even back when it would spin up it never sounded different just louder as you would imagine turning up a fan would.

If it wasn't for heat I suspect pjs would last forever so long as the bulbs were constantly in production.

u/KainOF · 2 pointsr/buildapc

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KFCQT6M/ref=psdc_11036291_t3_B00KFCRIQM

Those look pretty black to me O.o...the rubber ends are to minimize vibration noise. I use Cooler Master ones which are pretty quiet, but not Noctua quiet lol

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Bearing-Computer-Radiators/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525756489&sr=1-3&keywords=cooler+master+120mm

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-SickleFlow-120-Radiators/dp/B0026ZPFDE/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1525756489&sr=1-4&keywords=cooler%2Bmaster%2B120mm&th=1

For stock cooler, you might try a CPU water cooler. Cooler and vastly more quiet. I have H80i which is a decent entry point.

Good luck tho hope you find some!

u/cecilkorik · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Noctua makes lovely fans. What do you mean you "don't know which ones to get"? It should be pretty straightforward? Get one of the appropriate size, preferably with PWM if your motherboard supports it, and make sure it's the high-pressure fan designed for heatsinks rather than a high-airflow fan for case ventilation. Like this.

u/ADirtyScrub · 1 pointr/PC__MasterRace

I have a Corsair Obsidian 450D that came with a ton of very loud case fans. I switched them all out for PWM fans, which I hooked up to fan controller which runs all the fans at the same speed as the CPU fan. This solution only cost me 8$ for the fan controller and the price of the fans. It is all automatic and I don't need to actively change the speed of any of the fans. It runs at the minimum and nearly silent idle/light browsing and still remains fairly quiet gaming considering my OC'ed CPU and GPU. Here are the parts I used.

Here is the fan controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The CPU fan (best static pressure fan I've yet to find): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VYEI17U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These excellent, cheap, quiet fans for the case:
https://www.amazon.com/quiet-BL040-1000RPM-18-8DBA-Cooling/dp/B016XWZ56M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496727439&sr=8-1&keywords=be+quiet%21+PURE+WINGS+2+PWM+140mm+1000RPM+61CFM+18.8DBA+Cooling+Fan

u/RidleyScotch · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have 3 SYS_FAN headers on my MOBO but i want 5 or 6 fans.

How can i control them in the best way? I know that there are fan header splitter cables but then that forces the BIOS to run each fan at the same speed/settings as it doesn't recognize 2 fans, just 1. I'm knew to PC building and i'm not doing some super-fancy PC set-up so i'm not even sure if it's that big a deal to worry about the individual fan controls.

Is that what the Corsair Commander Pro does? Being able to set the speeds individually through the LINK software?

Does this Silverstone product do the same as the CCP?

SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables

u/jperryss · 5 pointsr/crtgaming

These things were designed to run 24x7 with no additional cooling and I've honestly never even considered this except when orienting the monitor in a way that blocks the vents, like in TATE mode on some monitors. Not to sound like a jerk, but how can you say installing a fan is the best way to preserve a monitor without knowing if anyone has ever done it?
 
That being said, if I wanted to do this, I would probably attach a USB-powered fan or two (like these) to one ventilated side of the case and plug them directly into wall power with a USB power adapter because I don't like the idea of adding additional load to a PVM power supply that wasn't designed for it. Assuming the monitor had vents on top, I'd probably mount it up there using zip-ties through the holes and use it as an exhaust fan to pull warm air out.

u/BusterMathisJr · 1 pointr/originalxbox

I've definitely heard of Noctua and know they make good stuff, there wouldn't be any issues running an aftermarket fan like fan (like RPM or etc)?
I looked around a bit and saw one or two forum posts mentioning specs for replacing it, it looks like it is a 12V 40x10mm fan so this would be the Notcua equivalent I'm guessing

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M#customerReviews

u/Saales0706 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hello there! I have the same case, and while I loved the case, the stock fans were kinda meh. so I upgraded to these. They still work fine, and now I have an actual fan curve set up so it doesn't sound like a jet engine! The 5 pack was also a nice perk.

  1. The case fans will still run at a constant speed if you plug them into your mobo fan ports. That is because they are 3 pin instead of 4. What you want to look for if you want adjustable fan speeds is anything labeled "PWM."

    2a) I don't think it really matters.

    2b) the connectors should have a little indented area on the side that the raised plastic piece on the MoBo (above the pins) fits into.


    Edit: Formatting
u/Oh_Ludicrous · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hi everyone, i recieved a few case fans as a gift for christmas, but my motherboard (gigabytye GA-H110M-A) only has enough headers for 1 case fan. I am currently using a splitter but i am looking to add another fan soon so i ordered a silverstone fan hub https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VNW556I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is it safe to run this fan hub off of my motherboard's header? i have read from some places that it isn't..

u/SameriteRL · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm set for the Cryorig M9i cooler, but as for the case fan, should I keep my preinstalled? It doesn't look to be of good quality, and if I should replace it, I found a nice pair of Corsair fans (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F6S13DE/ref=twister_B00F93ZIEG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1). Not sure if these are of any better quality than the preinstalled, but if it isn't, I'll stick with the Noctua P12 redux.

u/fishbelt · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hmm, well the case is only going to be as quiet as the loudest fan and then some. If I bought the splitter I wouldn't pay much more for another fan, so probably another cheap fan like this.

But I'd prob not even bother and buy one PWM fan since the performance is near identical to two fans.

Edit: link to noctua fan $$

u/mirox · 1 pointr/buildapc

If you're not concerned about noise, or RGB, but you care about price to value ratio, take advantage of the fact the 303 is a large enough size case.

Buy 4 fans for less than the price of the expensive fan someone reccomended.

These are fairly quiet, 38CFM fans.


If you want higher CFM fans, here's a value pack of 5 here.

You can get a few fan splitters here.


Note, not all fans have to be PWM controlled. For some fans, can just run fans on their default setting, or H/M/L and not plug them into the motherboard (just use sata/molex power).

I don't know what kind of cooling you really require, a case with 7 fans will have serious cooling regardless. In smaller form factors, this is where the more serious high performance fans are critical. There's a lot of breathing room in the 303.

u/HowManySmall · 1 pointr/buildapc
Here's what you should have done.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $419.99
CPU Cooler | Thermalright TRUE Spirit 140 POWER 73.6 CFM CPU Cooler | $54.95 @ Amazon
Motherboard | MSI Z170A-G45 GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $0.00
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $62.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | PowerColor Radeon R9 390 8GB PCS+ Video Card | $287.10 @ Newegg
Case | Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ NCIX US
Wireless Network Adapter | Gigabyte GC-WB867D-I 802.11a/b/g/n/ac PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter | $29.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1024.89
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $1004.89
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-05-14 16:27 EDT-0400 |

Much better cooler (beats the R1), get it from Amazon though.
Better GPU
Better PSU
Got rid of the loud and pretty bad case fans.
u/Jynxmaster · 2 pointsr/buildapcsales

I also like the ThermalRight True Spirit Power 140, super quiet with great cooling performance.

u/nuldabz · 2 pointsr/NZXT

Ahh i see.

You can get a fan hub or pwm splitter for pretty cheep

DeepCool Fan HUB CPU Cooler Powers up to 4 Fans https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YD7B0M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p83TBb8YR29TC
Rosewill Case Fan Splitter Cable, PWM Cable Splitter Duplicator, Case Fan Power Duplicator Converter, Dual Case Fan Power Adapter, Case Fan Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S83TBbCHG6HJT

u/TactFully · 2 pointsr/buildapc

212 Evo is very far from the best under $60. It is one of the best for under ~$35 but definitely NOT the previous.

THESE are the best (thermal performance & low noise) up to $60

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/scythe-cpu-cooler-scmg4000

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/thermalright-cpu-cooler-machoreva and True Spirit 140

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/phanteks-cpu-cooler-phtc12dxbk

u/Chromatikk · 0 pointsr/bapccanada

I would recommend intel i7 8700 processor for your build. This will give you better multi-tasking and longevity.

​

The 3 fans you've selected are good. I have my own preferences:

u/AndyJarosz · 15 pointsr/ValveIndex

GitHub link w/files: https://github.com/MadlyFX/Index-Fan-Mount

A360 link: https://a360.co/2L61Gbc

Shapeways links for stone age people without 3D printers:

http://shpws.me/Rkx3

http://shpws.me/Rkx8

http://shpws.me/Rkx9

Index-Fan-Mount


3D printable files for a dual fan bracket for the front of the Valve Index

Design Notes:


This is built upon the Valve provided 3D model of the visor and is intended to provide a way to cool the headset and/or the user. No electronics are provided, however wiring of the fans is trivial and plenty of internal space is provided.

The fans slip into the slots on the top of the bracket and are retained by internal tabs. Optional caps, which are separate files, can be snapped onto the top to cover the gap to improve looks. The bracket itself utilizes the same locating pins of the stock visor, which means magnets must be used.

This was designed around the Noctua 40mm fans, which have rubber bumpers and are a little bit thiccer than standard 40mmx10mm fans. As such, if you use stock fans, you may find them to be a bit loose. Nothing a little double sided foam tape can't fix!

Finally, this does violate the Sensor Inclusion Zone of the Index, which means it could theoretically affect tracking performance. A photo showing this is in the root of this directory.

Printing Notes:


I would not recommend printing this using ABS, or any warp-prone filament. The locating pins of the Index are very small and very distant from each other, which means even a small amount of part warp will throw off the alignment. PLA or PETG would be my recommendation here. Of course, if it does warp, that double sided foam tape can save you once again.

This has a flat bottom and is designed to be printed "upright." It will still require supports, however none on visible surfaces.

BOM


You will need to print one of each file.

These are the recommended fans: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NEMGCIA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.JGiDbBDF39J2

Use 1/8"x1/8" axially magnetized cylinder magnets, such as K&J #D22-N52.

u/pxlnght · 1 pointr/buildapc

What sort of fans can I find that are black and don't suck? I love Noctua fans, but with a tempered glass case on the way I don't want to reuse my poo fans. Hopefully the price is less than Noctua as well. Thanks!

Edit: Found these Arctic fans on my own. I'm going to get them and try em out. If I don't like them, I'll grab some Noctua Chromax fans. Thanks lads!

u/RaNdMViLnCE · 1 pointr/CR10

Im a pro owner as well, and have also been on the improvement quest.

here a re a few Nexi youtube vids of upgrades he has done on his pro. as well i listed a few things i did to mine below.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VH3zrRNOGfA&t=186s this one is how to change the capacitive sensor to inductive.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hG8X26UtLVw this one shows ytou how to install T8 anti backlash nuts. (Great if you suffer from constant Z leveling.

​

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lde-SSY4vtw&t=638s Quiet your printer down with high quality fan replacements i went with these https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

​

https://youtu.be/DI31OItLQ9w there is also this 37 min review from NJ Tech where he goes over various upgrades and mods to his Pro, i found this video very relatable and a decent watch. though i do like Nexi's idea of voltage splitting to run the fans instead of voltage step downs. also prefer the MB cooler bracket from NJ's video over Nexi's.

​

in addition to this stuff above in these videos(I have done most of these mods now), for me im running the TM firmware, with an Octoprint to control it, Wham Bam build plate on the way.

also have a permanent screen SD adapter installed with a cable that runs outside the case for easier repeat flashes. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JMTW1YD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

​

I would also recommend a right angle USB cable to connect to Octo as i dont care for the stock cable that hangs way off the side of the printer just dying to get knocked off or broken.. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004NO0L4O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​



​

Hope this stuff helps you out!

Cheers.

u/bmurray06 · 1 pointr/Corsair

You can get a fan hub or splitter for pretty cheap. I got this hub which has 8 headers for $15. Works great and comes with adhesive to stick it wherever works best for the back compartment of your case.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xodHDbRDHMQW2

u/ShadySkins · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You can buy a fan hub that is powered off of SATA from your PSU. Up to 8 fans off of one header. I was doing this myself, but I could not control the fan speed from my BIOS. It was at full throttle all the time. Here I found out the issue was specific to Gigabyte mobos. I abandoned the hub and went with splitters. I'm fortunate to have 3 headers on my mobo, so I only needed to split each of them once to accomodate 6 fans.

Besides the issue without being able to control speed.... the hub was great and worked as advertised. Maybe you can try this and have better luck than me.

u/OldMcWaffle · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is there a difference between the RF120 and RF120M fans, besides no wired controller? If not, it looks to me like the 2nd set is clearly the better value, with 2 extra fans for only 8$ more.

1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074P19HSL?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1


VS.

2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HN199YJ?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1


Thank you for the help!

u/SerJJ4375 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Correct me if I'm wrong, but are your fans 4-pin (PWM)? Before you make a decision on getting a new mobo, look at this:

https://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=N82E16812162059

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00B46XKKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474271788&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=pwm+splitter&dpPl=1&dpID=31CHO8viz1L&ref=plSrch

~It's a fan splitter cable. I'm trying to find one that would take power from the psu instead of the mobo; still looking. It'd be better to have the power coming from your psu (you would be able to control the fans because it would also connect to the mobo. Aah, found it just as I was typing this & would recommend this if you don't want to deal with buying a new mobo & moving the cpu:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DYQRFY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474272092&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pwm+splitter+that+plugs+into+psu


However, you could use the 2 cables mentioned before for your case fans & the other slot on your mobo for the cpu cooler. Hope I helped a little. What do you think?

u/petascale · 1 pointr/Corsair

I would go with one commander pro and a PWM y-splitter (example), so you run two of the fans off the same header.

You could also use any powered PWM fan hub (example) and plug it into the PSU (for power) and motherboard (for fan control), if the PSU has a spare molex- or SATA power connector and the mobo has a spare fan header. You can't use iCue to control fan speeds here; instead you'll use BIOS, or the motherboard fan control software, or third-party software like SpeedFan.

That's for controlling fan speed, assuming you know how to set up the RGB part.

u/madmaz186 · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have an Asus Prime Z370a with 5 fan headers and four 3pin fans. The problem is I can only control a max of 3 fans in my BIOS Qfan settings.

Chassis fan 1, chassis fan 2, and the M.2 fan headers are the only ones that can control 3pin fans. The Optional Cpu fan header and AIO pump header keeps my fan running at max rpm.

Is there software to control my last fan currently plugged into the OPT_CPU header?

Is buying this y splitter my only solution? Will my Qfan curve setting be able to control both fans at the same time?

u/GroceryBagHead · 2 pointsr/sffpc

50C on idle doesn't sound right. My 2200G is about 30C with stock cooler (about 1500rpm though). I would try to reapply paste.

PSU switch look like 10 minutes. And that mostly because it's hard to remove motherboard with everything attached.

  • Buy https://www.amazon.ca/40x10mm-Bearing-Premium-Cooling-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
  • Remove PSU. 2 bolts: one at the back, one on the side from the side where 2.5" drives are.
  • Open PSU. There are a couple of pretty obvious screws. Box opens like a lid.
  • Unscrew and yank stock fan out. Connector had glue on it, so I had to scrape it off.
  • Install Noctua fan. Route its cable with the rest of cables that come out from PSU.
  • Plug Noctua into your motherboard. Use included low-noise adapter cable for best results.
u/starkman9000 · 1 pointr/buildapc

[SOLVED] I need a fan splitter that allows two of my fans to be RPM controlled by the MOBO I am currently using this one but only lets the fans run at 100%, and not be RPM controlled. Any suggestions (preferably black sleeved, but I'll take anything)


EDIT: I'm using the built-in "ASUS Fan Xpert" to control the 3pin fans.

EDIT2: Thanks Neverlife for the suggestion. It seems the BIOS was affecting the fans. After running the fan utility in UEFI all works well and dandy.

u/xyz940 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

it actually has 1 case fan header the other one is for the CPU cooler so you can't use it with a regular fan

either a fan y-splitter or a fan hub

with a either you will not be able to control each fan's speed as they all share the same PWM signal and you might run into current limitation for motherboard (unlikely)

with a cheap fan hub you won't run into any current issues but you will still not be able to control each fan speed (all fans will work at the same speed - you would be able to control that speed)

If you want to control each fan individually you would need a 5.25" fan controller

u/HavocA · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a fan related question. I'm new to pc building, and at the moment I'm trying to figure out how to power 5 fans from a motherboard that has 1 CPU fan header and 2 System fan headers (all 4pin). I was thinking of using the silverstone fan splitter on the 2 system fan headers which would power 4 fans, leaving me without power to 1 fan. I figured I shouldn't connect a splitter to the CPU fan header, so that's out of the question I think. Another suggestion I saw was using Molex, but I'm not too comfortable with how that all works. So anyone have any suggestions for the best course of action here? Also I may not even need 5 fans, only 4, so if a lot people recommend not using a 5th fan then I guess I can do that.

Here is my case, motherboard, and splitter (if I'll be using it):

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/bitfenix-case-bfcsnb150wwwbsp

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/msi-motherboard-b85mg43

http://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464395329&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+splitter

u/Rath1on · 1 pointr/hardwareswap

PWM Fan Hub, Exwin PC Fans Hub 4 Way Sleeved PWM Fan Splitter Hub Cable 15 Inch for 12V Desktop Computer Fans 4-Pin & 3-Pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749JJ2YR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_izMSAbEG1FEFZ

Rosewill Case Fan Splitter Cable, PWM Cable Splitter Duplicator, Case Fan Power Duplicator Converter, Dual Case Fan Power Adapter, Case Fan Y Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XQ7XC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cAMSAbZJ5ZAYR

Personally I would go for the hub. Get more value out of it.

u/citarch · 1 pointr/mpminidelta

For the bottom Fan, i printed a modified base i found on thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3747339) and used a 120 fan with a 3pin to 2 pin adapter(included with the 40mm fan I bought), for the hot end i printed a modified fan duct also from thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3471759) to mount a 40mm noctua fan and spliced the original 30mm fan connector onto the "omnijoin connector" included in the box with the 40mm fan(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/a8ksh4 · 1 pointr/ODroid

I got one for christmas and am trying to cool it off, too.
I got a heatsync: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZRDRX8M
And Noctula Fan: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NEMGCIA

But with the thermal pad, it still shoots up to ~96 degrees under full load. It must be the thermal pad because the heatsync stays totally cool with the fan running (it does warm up without the fan).

I wonder if we could put metal shims on top of the two cpu dies to lift the heatsync away from the rest of the surface mount components and then use proper thermal paste to bind them with the heatsync. I'll have to do some research into this... :) Let me know if you guys come up with any other ideas... !

u/Grizzled--Kinda · 1 pointr/buildapc

I bought two of the chromax NF-A15 fans and swapped them with the stock ones on my d15. They look SO MUCH BETTER! Also they have a bit higher rpm max. Buy the cooler and the chromax fans, sell the stock noctua fans or put them as intake/exhaust where you cant see them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07654B9MR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: take those brown noctua fans off and buy the chromax 140mm case fans as well, they aren't that much more:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07655KF5C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, you don't need a 750psu, an evga 650 would work perfect and it would be cool if you go the g.skill rgb ram so your motherboard can utilize a feature it has called AURA where it will sync the rgb leds on your Asus mobo, ram, and gpu.

u/Neko_Aura · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

Like the build would only alter two things from personal experience the case and Noctua fan for better aesthetics and flow.

​

Case NZXT H500 Amazon 69.99$ and Fan Corsair ML120 29.33$ you get two fans =)

u/Purpleandbrown · 1 pointr/buildapc

> where are they connected?

I thought I explained that in the album. If I wasn't clear enough I'll just say it here.

I have seven fans: one is the CPU fan and the other are six case fans connected together by a fan hub. The CPU fan is connected to the CPU_FAN1 on the motherboard. The fan hub is connected to CPU_FAN2 on the motherboard.
___
Further specifications:

u/cas13f · 2 pointsr/buildapc

That would not be an ideal one, but yeah.

4 fans on a single fan header is very much stretching the capability, as it's pulling all of the power for them from the single header.

This one uses SATA power so you can safely power more fans with control from a single header

With both, ALL of the connected fans are going to have the same speed, as they are controlled by the single fan header's output.

u/hschen · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

something like this would work okay. https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Sleeved-Splitter-CPF01/dp/B00B46XKKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473528343&sr=8-1&keywords=fan+splitter. Though you wont fit all of your fans, unless you get two and also plug the CPU fan this way. but it will make the other fan a slave to the CPU.

even if the splitter is 4 pins and the fans are 3 pins, you can still put the fans into it, as the fourth pin is only used for PWM, and isn't required, just make sure you put it in correctly. There are also fan splitters that split into three, but i read they aren't recommended. You could also get a fan hub which allows for more fans, but i think you need to power it by molex.

u/Enderzt · 1 pointr/watercooling

I am not sure if you knew and I apologize if I am just recommending fans you essentially already own but you can get the Chroma Noctua NF-F12 and NF-A14's which are black and have different color rubber edges to match case colors. The Chroma F12's are perfect for radiators and the A14's are great airflow and case fans. Seems to be what your looking for.

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-PWM-chromax-black-swap-premium-grade/dp/B07654PNFQ/ref=pd_bxgy_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CJZRKVPGXW61XQ8FFD94

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07655KF5C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Z5H6ZGWCMTNX&psc=1

u/BandidTwitch · 1 pointr/buildapc

You may want a couple of 140mm case fans for intakes I have those and they're pretty good. But keyboards and mice are pretty subjective to taste and how much you want to spend. Like do you want a mechanical keyboard, rgb lights, macro buttons, full size, 60%, tenkeyless?

u/Jiborkan · 1 pointr/FixMyPrint

Yeah, I had been really good at getting part that are easy to work with and I missed where a 12V would be easier to work with. I ended up getting this fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498843580&sr=8-1&keywords=noctua+40mm

It had a few people mention using it for their 3D printer then I forgot to check the rest lol. I'll probably pick up a new fan here soon if I can't get this one hooked up.

u/ProfessionalHobbyist · 3 pointsr/Reprap

The safest thing is a properly-sized resistor on the 5V rail. If you don't do that, the PSU may appear to run fine without it initially and then randomly shut down, reset, etc., potentially ruining prints. You need to keep drawing 1-2 amps at 5V to keep things happy. If you really want ideas for things to put on 5V that are actually useful:

  • 5V LEDs
  • Raspberry Pi
  • a powered USB hub
  • USB webcam
  • 5V fan(s) to cool stepper drivers/control board

    Source: Have repurposed several AT and ATX PSUs for bench supplies and reprap power supplies.
u/TerafloppinDatP · 1 pointr/buildapc

Here are $7 Cooler Master Sickle Flow LED 3-pin fans that work pretty well if you want some color coming through: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091&cm_re=120mm_cooler_master_led-_-35-103-091-_-Product

Super budget oriented 3-pin from Rosewill, generally regarded as the best for absolute dirt cheap ($15 for a 4-pack): https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-Sleeve-Computer-Cooling-ROCF-13001/dp/B00KB8CB9O/ref=as_li_ss_tl?&linkCode=sl1&tag=fansguru-20&linkId=6664da0240826b6b802c299fea59943d

Fractal Design 3-pin for $10 each: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835352009&cm_re=fractal_120mm_fan-_-35-352-009-_-Product

Maybe someone else can add some suggestions in the budget range.

u/aaronlam123 · 5 pointsr/HardwareSwapUK

Mate, I don't know what you're playing at here, but this isn't fooling anyone. Your timestamped photo (https://imgur.com/NaNE1cd) is definitely NOT a NF-S12A, its not brown and beige in color and the fan blades are completely different (https://noctua.at/en/products/fan/nf-s12a-pwm). I'm virtually certain its not a noctua at all, it looks like these generic rosewill 120mm fans.

u/GExMNE · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

If you don't want your buds to molds or smell like hay, you should try to create some air exchange in that box. You want air to be moving around the buds constantly, but not too fast. A couple of computer fans like this should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Bearing-Computer-Radiators/dp/B000O8I474/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1397338984&sr=8-6&keywords=pc+box+fan. Buds are looking supreme, by the way! I love harvesting, but waiting for my bud to dry and cure in some ways is the worst part of growing.

u/-Kevin- · -6 pointsr/Amd

Throwing a $30 cooler seems like it'd kill the deal right? Like for OCing don't you want a better cooler? I'd say a $90 Noctua, but then it looks like absolute shit and covers your RAM, so probably a water cooler or something? I really dunno.

My Ryzen build is a $200 cpu, $100 mobo (after discount), and free cooler.

Edit: I found this cooler is super popular and $50 - https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-True-Spirit-140-Power/dp/B00IYEEOMO#customerReviews

u/Mdogboy · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The silverstone fan hub may be a good option. I'm actually using one in my pc right now. I've had no issues with it.

​

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=fan%2Bhub&qid=1557387346&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1

​

It can run up to 8 fans and it is powered by a sata power cable, the same type of power cable you use for hard drives and ssd's. And it has a pwm connector that you plug into your motherboard fan header. This allows it to use the pwm signal from the motherboard to control the speed of the fans.

The downsides are that all fans will run on the same pwm signal, so you cannot control their speeds individually. Also, there is no voltage control, so you cannot control the speed of 3 pin fans. 3 pin fans will run at max speed.

​

So I would only recommend getting this if all of your fans are 4 pin pwm fans. And ideally, you would want all of your fans to be the same model. If the fans are not the same model, since you cannot control the speed of the fans individually, they will run at different speeds unless they happen to have the same rpm range.

I would also suggest getting fan extension cables too, depending on how long your fan cables are and how big your case is.