(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best computer memories

We found 10,428 Reddit comments discussing the best computer memories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 1,820 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

🎓 Reddit experts on computer memories

The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where computer memories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
Total score: 867
Number of comments: 787
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 517
Number of comments: 344
Relevant subreddits: 3
Total score: 465
Number of comments: 201
Relevant subreddits: 2
Total score: 129
Number of comments: 88
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 84
Number of comments: 28
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 81
Number of comments: 35
Relevant subreddits: 5
Total score: 75
Number of comments: 49
Relevant subreddits: 4
Total score: 66
Number of comments: 46
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 46
Number of comments: 36
Relevant subreddits: 1
Total score: 28
Number of comments: 21
Relevant subreddits: 1
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Top Reddit comments about Computer Memory:

u/geroge314 · 3 pointsr/applehelp

I have this same laptop and it's working perfectly well after upgrading both the RAM and the SSD. Upgrading to an SSD will greatly decrease the boot time of the laptop and adding more RAM will help to make the laptop snappier overall. The first step I would take would be to put an SSD in the laptop, especially considering the horribly long boot times you're experiencing, but both will

Adding RAM will be the easiest change for your laptop, as it doesn't require any transferring of files. I personally have 16 GB of ram in my laptop (2 x 8GB) but in the interest of saving money, you may want to get one 8GB stick of RAM and upgrade again down the line if you desire. When shopping for RAM, you want to make sure that you have a SODIMM sized stick, and that it's running at 1600 MHz speed. Here is an option from Amazon, but you may be able to find other options for cheaper (this was just the first thing I found). You just want to ensure that the RAM you buy is a SODIMM module and is running at 1600 MHz. Assuming the 4GB is in the form of 2 x 2GB sticks, you will have 10 GB of RAM total after installing the new module.

You can easily find videos on how to install RAM on the internet, but as a quick explanation:

  • Turn your computer off
  • Remove all the screws from the bottom of the MacBook, there should be 10 and they're all Phillips.
  • Pull off the back of the laptop
  • You should see RAM modules above the battery at the bottom of the laptop
  • There are two tabs that you can pull on to release the RAM from its socket, it should pop up at an angle and you can pull it out. There will most likely be another stick of RAM under it, you should leave it be.
  • You want to put the new stick of RAM in at the same angle that the old one came out at, aligning the notch of the slot to the notched hole in the RAM stick, and then push it down so it's sitting as the original RAM stick was.
  • Put the back cover on and rescrew the screws. Note that the 3 long screws go in the part of the back nearest to the screen hinge.

    You should now be able to go to "About the Mac" then to Memory, and see a 2GB and 8GB (if you get an 8GB stick) module show up.


    As for the SSD, it can be a bit more complicated depending on how you want to go about doing it. If you care about all of the data on your old drive, you can clone it using a cloning software. If not, you can copy important files onto a flash drive or external hard drive to paste back into the new installation of macOS.

    But first, you need to get the SSD itself. The Samsung 850 Evo is very well liked across the internet and the drive that I personally used. You can get it in whatever capacity you need. That being said, there are other options of SSDs that will be less expensive while still being a massive upgrade over the spinning disk drive that you likely already have. If you do searching around the internet, the only thing you need to be careful of is that the SSD has a SATA connector and isn't a m.2 drive. You'll also need a SATA to USB cable like This

    The way I would recommend replacing the drive would be to do a fresh install of macOS, keeping a backup of your important files.

    You want to start by plugging the SSD into the SATA to USB cable and the cable into your laptop. Then, open Disk Utility (either by using a spotlight search or finding it in the "Other" folder of the application display (hit the F4 function key)) Once you have disk utility open, you want to find the SSD on the left drop-down menu and erase it. This will format it to be usable as a boot disk for macOS. Note: it's possible that it will work without doing this but I am unsure and think it would be good to be safe here to save the time of having to change it.

    As with the RAM, you can probably easily find a video showing how to do it, but I will also list the rest of the steps as I remember them.
  • Turn the laptop off
  • Unscrew the screws of the back cover
  • Take off the back cover. The hard drive should be beside the battery at the bottom and held in by black brackets on the top and bottom. To unscrew them, you just need a small Phillips screwdriver.
  • Once you've unscrewed them, you can pull off the top of both black brackets and pull out the drive. Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables!
  • Disconnect the SATA power and SATA data connectors at the end of the ribbon cable on the drive.
  • Unscrew the four screws holding the drive in the bracket.
  • Pull the drive out and put the new drive in and screw it back in like the old one was
  • Do the steps taken to remove the old drive in reverse to secure the new drive into place.

    Once the new drive is in, you can reboot the laptop and hit the Option key to bring up a boot menu. You should see something that says "Choose a Network" and you can sign into your WiFi to continue. From there you will able to use network recovery to reinstall macOS.


    I hope this is helpful and good luck! I'm glad I'm not the only one still using a 2012 MBP :)

    edit: formatting, a word
u/shiny_roc · 1 pointr/Dell

If you're at all handy, it's really easy to do the upgrades yourself. Here's a YouTube video showing how. The video is for last year's 9570 model, but the upgrade process is identical. Skip the WiFi chip upgrade unless you have specific problems (rare) that can't be resolved with the process I linked above (exceedingly rare).

You have a ton of options for RAM and SSD - so many that it can be quite overwhelming. You have to be careful to get compatible memory, whereas basically any SSD that fits will work. Performance will be roughly the same across RAM kits, but the SSD has more of a performance range. I'll link some examples. Since your link is for Dell Canada, I'll just use Amazon Canada for examples because I know it works.

​

Before you pick upgrades

If you can get the screen, processor, battery, and discrete graphics card you want simultaneously, start with 8 GB RAM and a 256 GB SSD and upgrade both aftermarket (go straight for 1 TB on the SSD upgrade). If you can't drop lower than a 512 GB SSD to get right screen/processor/battery/dGPU combination, instead go with the 512 GB SSD and keep that initially unless you know you need 1 TB. You can upgrade later, although it is a little tricky logistically - if you'd prefer to save yourself the potential hassle, upgrading to aftermarket 1 TB immediately is defensible.

Consider starting with 8 or 16 GB of RAM and, if the option is available for the rest of the config you want, a 512 GB SSD. If you get a model with 8 GB RAM, you can pull out the 2x4 GB sticks and put in a single 16 GB stick instead. If you decide you need 32 GB later, you can pop in a second identical 16 GB stick. (Two modules is technically faster than one, but the performance difference is negligible. Don't worry about it.) If the screen/processor/battery/GPU you want only come on a model with 16 GB RAM, just start with that and buy an upgrade later if you need more elbow room. Very few people need 32 GB - an example of that use case is if you're running multiple virtual machines simultaneously and have to have them locally rather than spinning up just what you need in The Cloud.

Similarly, though not to as great an extent, 1 TB is a lot of disk space. Do you need that much? If you don't have hundreds of gigabytes of media you want to store locally or keep >2 AAA games installed simultaneously, you're probably fine with 512 GB. Again, you can always upgrade later, although the logistics are trickier if you want to save all your old data.

​

Memory

Crucial is a solid choice. Crucial's website has a nice compatibility picker for the XPS 15 7590, but since they don't handle Canadian customs for you, here's an Amazon CA link (32 GB selected, but you can pick 1x16 instead of 2x16).

​

SSD

You need an m.2 2280 NVMe SSD. Nearly any SSD fitting those parameters will work. If you're going to aftermarket-upgrade the SSD, go straight for 1 TB (or more if you really need more). I have heard very good things about the Silicon Power P34A80 (review, purchase) and the Adata XPG SX8200 Pro (review, purchase). Note that the SX8200 Pro is double-sided, but it has been reported to fit and work just fine in an XPS 9570 and so should work in a 7590 as well.

​

Display

You didn't ask about this, but since you're going to save a bunch of money on the RAM and SSD, consider whether your use case merits treating yourself to a 4K display for a fair chunk of the cost you just saved :-P

If you need >10 hours of battery runtime, skip 4K. Otherwise it's really nice. Text is amazingly crisp, which I have found lets me run at 175% display scaling and still read comfortably. (Windows 10 default is 125% for 1080p and 250% for 4K). There are a small number of applications that don't do well with UI scaling, which makes 4K a less-than-great choice for those, but you can always drop back to 1080p just while using those applications if you really have to. It'll look pretty good because 4K is an exact multiplier of 1080p.

​

Base Models

I'm not listing prices because they change too frequently. Just check the links.

  • 8 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD, 1080p display. At the time of this writing, there's a sale on the next model up that makes it cheaper to buy 16 GB/256 GB, so just do that. If it changes, you have this as a starting point.
  • 16 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD, 1080p display.
  • 16 GB RAM, 256 GB SSD, 4K OLED display. I went with 4K touch (IPS rather than OLED) because I'm paranoid about OLED burn-in. It's probably fine, but if you're worried about it, the IPS panel is theoretically safer and still gorgeous. Unfortunately it doesn't look like the IPS panel is available in Canada without paying out the nose for stock 32 GB RAM and 1 TB SSD.
u/youngfenrir · 1 pointr/buildapc

It's probably best if I explain my reasoning for what I chose and have some questions:

Mobo: I chose it for the sake of having 2 system fan headers and 1 CPU cooler fan header, the case I chose had a built in fan controller for the front 3 fans. This means I would use all the fans I have with the PC for not too much more money ~only £6 but also while getting maximum airflow

RAM: I was gonna buy just an extra stick for 16gb, would the speed make a huge difference or not so much? As it's about justifying the extra money in terms of performance in game.

SSD: Honestly, no issues here only thing is never heard of the brand but it is NVME and has the extra capacity for some games too along with OS.

Case: My choice was mainly due to aesthetics but also due to the good airflow with the case, good cable management, the PSU shroud and the built in 3-fan controller for the front 3 fans. That's how I justified the case personally, also the good airflow would be good for OC I imagine

PSU: I was thinking higher capacity(700W) would be ideal for upgradability in the future as I'm not planning on running a RX 480 forever (Maybe next upgrade to 1070) and I thought bequiet is a good brand, what's better about the corsair over the bequiet one?

Cooler: Yeah this one was my unknown part. I thought the AIO would be good for cooling and OCing but if that is good I could go for that as it does save money but question does that perform the same as the Hyper 212 evo or better as they are similarly priced.

Also, as a heads up I wanna make it look as good as possible so if I can get some RGB in there e.g cpu cooler for only a little more I'd pay for it as the original reason for the build was aesthetics and I still want that to be the focus but with extra benefits.

Edit: For example this RAM: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07D1XCKWW Only £12 more but RGB at the same speed I'd be willing to do

u/Trey5169 · 1 pointr/computers

Edit: prebuilt included at bottom of post.

If your issue with building a pc is taking time to select parts, you can have the friendly people at r/buildapcforme put together a list of parts for you, and then you'd only have to visit their neatly organized set of links and put the items in your cart (usually just on amazon.com and newegg.com, occasionally ebay.com as well).

As for prebuilts, just look for something cheap. Basically anything nowadays can run the games you've listed.

If you want to go for dirt cheap, and don't mind ordering parts, you can build a computer with the ryzen 3200g APU (no dedicated GPU), 8 GB of RAM, and a b450 motherboard for... cheap. Just off the top of my head... $100 for the CPU (Actually APU), 8 GB RAM, currently $30ish, though usually around $50 (and the prices are in flux right now), Almost $100 for a motherboard with wifi, though this can be $50 if you plug it into your home router with an ethernet cable. Add a $50 case, a more than adequate, good quality $50 PSU, as well as a small-ish SSD (the linked one is a 512 GB priced at $70) and you've got yourself a completed build. Note that you'll need a desk, chair, monitor, speakers/headset, keyboard, and mouse to use this as well, and a pci-e wireless adapter if you want wifi (assuming you didn't spring for the motherboard that has built in wifi.)

Edit: Ran that through a calculator. Assuming that RAM ends up costing you $50 instead of $30, and you spring for the motherboard with WIFI, your computer will cost $350 $420. A monitor, keyboard, and mouse will jack the price up another $150ish, since most decent 1080p monitors are $100 new. You'll also need speakers, or a headset. I've edited my list above to add this, but didn't factor in price. You're most likely looking at an additional $200 for perhipials, including moniotor, if you go the cheap route; this also assumes that you have a desk (any kind that will fit a monitor, keyboard, and mouse up top, in addition to your computer tower below, will suffice) and a chair to sit in.

If you want to go the laptop route, used gaming laptops with a 960m or similar dedicated GPU usually go for about $500-$600 on Ebay. Feel free to shop around; I recommend looking specifically for a model that has support for an M.2 SSD, as you can rock a small (200-512 GB range) m.2 SSD in addition to a large (but cheap) 1 or 2 TB laptop (2.5 inch) HDD. Install the OS to the SSD, and enjoy fast as hell computer speeds; install games to the HDD and enjoy vast amounts of storage for super cheap. (This can also be done for your desktop, but most laptops only support 1 SATA storage device.)

And, hey would you look at that. I forgot to include a storage device in your system build! I'll add it in and adjust the price accordingly (probably up $50, for a total of $400.)

For comparison, I found this prebuilt computer It's got a better GPU, but the CPU is a generation behind what I've listed. It even seems to come with a keyboard and mouse. All in all, a better gaming machine, but with a price tag to reflect it; It was at $580 when I posted the link. Which honestly isn't all that bad. At all.

You know what. Screw the rest of my post. Buy that prebuilt and you're all set. Well, except for the monitor. And maybe Wifi? And speakers. But still, it's a good price. Note: There's a $530 option, the GPU is a massive downgrade and it's not worth saving $50 to get it instead of the $580 computer. Although, truthfully, both will serve your needs just fine.

u/onliandone · 2 pointsr/buildapc
I think you are underestimating what you could do with that budget and that build.

First, some modifications:

pc-kombo recommendation

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 | EUR 222,60 @ Amazon.de
Motherboard | MSI B150M Bazzoka | EUR 79,05 @ Cyberport
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (8 GB) | EUR 49,13 @ Amazon.de
SSD | Samsung MZ-75E250B/EU (256 GB) | EUR 83,19 @ Amazon.de
Video Card | GeForce GTX 970 | EUR 326,95 @ Amazon.de
Case | Fractal Core 2500 | EUR 57,83 @ Amazon.de
Power Supply | Be quiet! L8-CM (430 W) | EUR 61,80 @ Amazon.de
| Total | €880.55
| Generated by pc-kombo 18.01.2016 |

> Do I need an extra sound card?

No, the onboard sound of todays motherboards is fine

> Do I need an extra network card?

No, they all include Gigabit ethernet.

> What do I have to look out for? I already included a Motherboard with an LGA1151 slot, so that I can upgrade to a potential Skylake CPU in the future.

But the i5-6400 is already a skylake cpu. What do you want to upgrade to? I switched it out with an i5-6500, because that is only a tiny bit more expensive but with a 500MHz higher base clock quite a bit faster, but for games especially that is a perfectly fine cpu. You can go to an i7 and gain a bit in Fallout 4 and in minimal FPS scores, but that's it. The i5 will drive all current games fine.

> How about the GPU? Is it fine?

The GTX 960 would already be fine for current games on medium to High, and if you want to save money you can go with that. But the GTX 970 is in your budget and will drive newer games better, on better settings.

> Keep in mind that I might upgrade in the near future, so I might change the Mobo and get another 960 for a 2 way SLI, or something like that, so I figured I'd get a stronger PSU.

That is what I wanted to point out: There is no point in going SLI and further upgrading this build (besides, you would need a Z170 mainboard specifically supporting SLI for that). From what you've described, this build will do all you want and more.

I dropped the cpu cooler, the stock one is quiet and fine for a non-overclocking build. 8 GB Ram is enough for current games, and the ram can be upgraded without a problem later when that changes. The Sandisk SSD is slower, in practice it does not matter much, but the price of the Samsung is close enough that the upgrade seems fine. The psu does not leave a great buffer, but is absolutely in line for that build, as the i5 does not eat much and also the gpu does not need that much (plus, that is a good psu).
u/kiko77777 · -1 pointsr/buildapcforme

I just spent a full hour writing about this but it got deleted by my mistake :-:
I recommend these parts

https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-LGA1151-Intel-Motherboard-GA-H110M/dp/B0165YUDTM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491086662&sr=1-1&keywords=h110m
https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Skylake-Desktop-Processor-BX80662I56500/dp/B010T6CWI2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1491088199&sr=1-1&keywords=i5+6500
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-03G-P4-6160-KR/dp/B01KUADE3O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1491087663&sr=1-2&keywords=1060&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2400MHz-Memory-Black/dp/B01ARHBBPS/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1491086759&sr=1-3&keywords=8gb+ddr4
https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU


The CPU is good enough for the game you will be playing, the motherboard is good enough and more expensive ones sell you feature you don't need. The RAM will do you fine and is enough for any game you want and the GPU will be perfect for 1080p with 3GB of VRAM. For storage, go with a cheap 500GB HDD but I would certainly recommend an SSD for the future. The power supply will do you fine no matter what anyone else says, trust me (powers my R9 280X which is a LOT more power hungry).
I would recommend looking round Ebay, Facebook selling sites etc etc for any used components or 'starting points' with Ebay being the best bet in my opinion due to the massive amounts of sellers. If you see a 6600 or a 6600k for the same or less than on Amazon, snag it up and make sure to have a CPU cooler with it (stock will do you again, I have experience with 6600/6500 running on stock coolers and it's perfectly fine)

Sorry if the response looks rushed, I had a better one but I clicked something and it deleted :'(
Would love to hear about how the build goes, may your frames be high and temperatures at a low enough level!

EDIT BEFORE POSTING : 'Bomba' recommended an 8GB RX 470 - that's pointless for 1080p in my opinion and having a Pentium Dual core isn't something anyone would crave. I also have bad experience with Corsair PSUs but I haven't tried the 450W.

u/Mindless_Art · 3 pointsr/mac

Hm, hard to decide I must say.

The i9 is much more powerful than the i5, here are the respective Geekbench scores:

iMac 27" 2019, 3.7 GHz Intel Core i5-9600K Hexa Core:

5796 Points (Single-Core Score)

22988 Points (Multi-Core Score)

source: https://browser.geekbench.com/macs/439

iMac 27" 2019, 3.6 GHz Intel Core i9-9900K Octa Core:

6261 Points (Single-Core Score)

33935 Points (Multi-Core Score)

source: https://browser.geekbench.com/macs/438

-----

As you can see, the i9 beats the i5 by a significant margin, that's the result of the i9 having two more physical cores in its CPU (8-Core CPU vs. 6-Core CPU), which gives significant rise to its Multi-Core Score. The Multi-Core Score is of importance to you, as video editing software like Final Cut Pro makes use of multiple cores in a CPU all at once, thus a higher Multi-Core Score will translate into improved performance. The difference between the CPUs is definitely significant, and goes clearly in favor of the i9.

That being said, the GPU has an even higher influence on video rendering times than the CPU, so it should also play a role in your final decision. The Vega 48 is the better option here, clearly, it is faster and also runs cooler. That being said, you can always use an external GPU with the iMac, via its USB-C / Thunderbolt 3 ports. Would using an external GPU, that might be even more powerful than the Vega 48 depending on the model you choose, be an option for you in the future? In this case I would clearly vouch for the i9 chip + Radeon Pro 580X, because a lack of GPU horsepower can always be fixed via an external GPU, while a worse CPU is unfixable forever.

If an eGPU is an option for you, get the i9 + Radeon Pro 580X, though clearly it would be the better internal configuration if you had both the i9 and the Radeon Pro Vega 48.

A word of advice regarding the RAM: The RAM in the iMacs 2019 is user-serviceable, meaning you can extend its capacity yourself easily and don't have to pay Apple's insane RAM upgrade prices. I strongly recommend that you do that, it's child's play really.

The iMac 27" 2019 (no matter which CPU) supports up to 128 GB RAM (4 x 32 GB RAM modules). It has 4 RAM slots, meaning 4 RAM modules in total will fit in. A higher total amount than 128 GB RAM won't work due to a limitation in the logic board.

The iMac 2019 needs RAM that matches the following specification:

PC4-21300 DDR4 2666 MHz, 260-pin

Here are some examples of RAM modules that work flawlessly in the iMac 2019:

u/welcumtocostcoiloveu · 1 pointr/Games

>like the way higher initial costs for a somewhat useable gaming

What do you consider usable? Because it doesn't actually take much to hit 30fps at 1080p which is what most console games run at. It is expensive to run the latest games at the highest possible settings at high resolutions but if your target is just a "console like experience" it is not true that a PC is more expensive they are very comparable in fact.

Here let me build you a PC

Graphics Card (280 after rebate)

Ram (50)

Motherboard (60 after rebate)

CPU (160)

HDD (48)

Mouse + Keyboard (15 after rebate and discount code)

Case (30 after rebate and discount code)

PSU (20)

Total Price - $623 compare that to the price of an XBOX ONE X (399 489 on sale). For $224 134 more you get a gaming pc that can play any game released in 2018 on ultra high and get 60+fps at 1080p which is more than a console can claim, and that is not even including the fact that you now have a good PC and PCs do a fuckload more than just play videogames.


Now take out $200 (buy an older GPU/CPU) and you can build a PC that matches the capabilities of a console. Playing games on medium/high (which is what consoles run) at 1080p and 30fps.

Also that PC has room for improvement throughout the years of ownership. It can use an SSD and another 8 gig stick of ram and more HDD storage. Possibly even aftermarket fans to put on the CPU to overclock it.

The ONLY advantage that consoles have over PC is exclusive titles that never get released outside of that particular console. And even that eventually becomes false because it is only a matter of time until every console can be emulated on PC.

Edit:
Also you can add $60 to the price of the Xbox because if you want to play multiplayer you need xbox live. So really its $160 more. This also doesn't include the fact that no storefront can even come close to matching the sales during steam summer sales. Let's be super conservative and say you save $30 a year on steam sales for games that you wanted to buy, so that puts us down to $130 more than an Xbox One X while having higher graphical capabilities and also having the benefit of being a PC and not just a console that plays games/streams netflix.

u/ctretina · 1 pointr/iBUYPOWER

Hey, man. Alrighty. So, a couple of things here....

​

  1. Even for the same model (e.g. BB960), IBUYPOWER doesn't necessarily use the same components (I suspect that they pull whatever they have available in inventory). So your motherboard could be practically anything that supports an Intel 9th generation CPU. To find out exactly which motherboard you have, run System Info in Windows 10. Then look for the BaseBoardManufacturer, BaseBoardProduct, and BaseBoardVersion fields. That'll tell you what MoBo you have. Then you can Google for that mother board's manual to read through it to see what RAM type and max speeds it supports.
  2. That said, looking at the specs on Best Buy, it comes with 8 GB of DDR4 RAM clocked at 2666 Mhz. So, if you just want to get identical RAM, then you can buy pretty much any DDR4 2666 Mhz stick. Something like Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2666MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0123ZC44Y/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=corsair+ddr4+2666&qid=1563028677&s=gateway&sr=8-1) or the RGB version of that if you like that sort of thing ( https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Vengeance-2666MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B07D1WWBL3/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=corsair+ddr4+2666&qid=1563028677&s=gateway&sr=8-3 ) would be just fine.
  3. Also, looking at the video card, you have an NVIDIA Geforce RTX 2060. So, that's a pretty good card. If you were going to upgrade, it would likely be to either an RTX 2080 Super or an RTX 2080 Ti. Either of those will run you about $1K. So I'm not sure if it's worth it to you.

    ​

    I hope that helps. Thanks and have a good one.

    ​

    Chris
u/figgzz007 · 1 pointr/laptops

For the SSDs, if you would like to go cheaper than that, there is the Western Digital Blue currently on Amazon for 189 USD. Wouldn't have any impact on real life performance but it's an option if you're willing to sacrifice a tiny bit of reliability. If you want more reliability (arguably the best from a consumer SSD), the Samsung 860 Evo 2TB is currently on sale on Amazon for 229 USD. For just $20 more, you could have the best speeds and reliability you could ever expect from a 2.5" SATA SSD. If I were in your shoes, I would definitely pick the Samsung for the Crucial SSD as it would be my storage where I need to keep my files safe. Having that extra peace of mind from the Samsung SSD makes a lot of sense for me. Of course, it would be your call to make. Don't get me wrong, the Crucial SSD is more than capable of handling day to day tasks flawlessly.

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-16GBx2-PC4-21300-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B071H38422/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=32gb+sodimm+2666&qid=1575085296&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Inch-Internal-MZ-76E2T0B-AM/dp/B0786QNSBD/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=2tb+ssd&qid=1575086291&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-3

u/delta_p_delta_x · 3 pointsr/Dell

First off, the Precision 7740 is now available, with Quadro RTX GPUs, and up to 8-core CPUs. Both notebooks (7530 and 7540, 7730 and 7740) are almost identical, with a CPU and GPU spec bump on the 7X40 series, with an option for the aluminium lid on the 7X40s, but only carbon fibre on the 7X30s.

To answer your questions, though:

  1. The 8750H is plenty fast, and the 7730 is a huge notebook by most standards; it will cool the 6-core (and now even the 8-cores) with relative ease. There's nothing you're missing out with the Xeons, except the ability to take advantage of ECC memory, which is generally not particularly necessary.

  2. Windows 10 Pro is fine. 10 Pro for Workstations is only mandatory with Xeons, and it's a scam, because it's a hundred dollars extra for exactly the same functionality. You can get Windows 10 Education licences and get rid of all nonsense within your Windows install, including Candy Crush, Minecraft, etc. Or you could choose Ubuntu Linux and save ~$80 or so, and purchase a Windows licence separately, or transfer your old Windows licence. In fact, I have extra Windows 10 Education licences, if you're interested.

  3. Quadro P3200 ≈ GTX 1060. The 7740s offer the RTX 3000, 4000 and 5000, and these compare to the RTX 2060, 70 and 80 respectively.

  4. 4K screen: if you need it, you need it. I've seen it in person, and from the ten minutes or so I used it, it was phenomenal.

  5. Absolutely get two sticks of 16 GB. In fact, save yourself some money by getting the cheapest RAM option, and get 32 GB 2666 MHz CL19 RAM for nearly a quarter the price from Amazon. It's JEDEC, so no problems with memory support.

  6. This option is also good. Consider passing over the 970 EVO; there are cheaper SSDs that offer ~90% of the day-to-day performance that the EVO does.

  7. ProSupport Plus is basically ProSupport + Accidental Damage coverage, which means if you spill coffee over your laptop and it becomes toast, or you accidentally drop your notebook and it cracks, Dell will repair it (one incident per warranty year) for free. Worth getting it, in my opinion. You can allocate the cash you save from the RAM above for this instead.

  8. The Precision 7000 series is Dell's flagship, and you'll experience less problems with it than the XPS 15 or G7 series, or whatsoever. Plus, the Precisions have some perks like replaceable/upgradeable graphics cards, smart card slots, a plethora of ports, and a subdued design that don't really come with Dell's consumer line.

  9. Maybe you'd like to consider other workstations, like the HP ZBook 17 G6, the Lenovo P73, the Asus StudioBook S W700.
u/el_californio · 3 pointsr/computers

Man, I just did this a few weeks ago. I got rid of the DVD drive and moved the 1TB HDD that it came with over to where the DVD drive was at and installed the Samsung 850 EVO 500GB SSD where the 1TB drive is now, that's because the connector where the HDD is now connected to is SATA III vs SATA I where the DVD drive is at. In other words if you want to better speeds remove the HDD and put the SSD in, then if you want the extra storage space (1TB) remove the DVD drive and put in the HDD there using a caddy.

I found myself needed the DVD drive ZERO (0) times since I've bought the laptop but everyone is different. By the way I highly recommend upgrading the RAM as well, it cost an extra $58 but it's totally worth it. My laptop, fully loaded with Norton 360, Office 2013 Pro, Adobe Acrobat X Pro, and all my other programs boots up in about 7 seconds. Here is the parts I used..

USB to SATA III cable

RAM

You need a T5 screwdriver to remove the screws to get into where the components are, I bought this set because it's handy for other things as well. BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU LOOSEN AND TIGHTEN THOSE SCREWS, THEY STRIP EASILY. Don't tighten them like the lug nuts on your car, TRUST ME!
Just use the cable and the software that came with the SSD to migrate the OS over from the HDD to the SSD, it's that easy!! If you want I can find the caddy that I used to replace the DVD drive, mine fits perfectly but I had to buy 2 because the first one was the wrong one. The outer plastic shell would not fit on the first one, but the second one fits perfectly. I can even post pictures showing you where the parts are located once you open the laptop.. Let me know, and I hope this helped!

*Edit - Found the Caddy

u/Noble_King · 1 pointr/computers

Just know that you can really get an extremely good, top of the line PC for $2,000

I highly recommend trying /r/buildapc and /r/pcmasterrace, and check out 4chan's /vg/ if you want to see what people think about games right now.

From what I can see, you could save some money in a few ways:

  • Buy your peripherals on sale; Headphones, keyboard, mouse, you can get better deals on those. I recommend you shop around in stores for some good deals.

  • I believe you can get a copy of Windows 8 64-bit (home) at Staples for ~$80

  • I've had trouble with EVGA power supplies before, such as 24-pin ATX not fitting into the motherboard, bad cables out of the box, etc., although this was with the G1, and you have a G5, so I'm not sure.

  • You can save on RAM (three links included)

  • If you're a student, you can get Microsoft Office for free.

  • Your case does come with fans, but I assume you'd like the red lighting.

    If you're really looking to cut costs down, you could probably live with a smaller (or without) an SSD, and mod the case fans yourself with red LEDs (quite easy to do with some wire and solder), and check out /r/microsoftsoftwareswap if it'll work out for you.

    I saw you hadn't gotten any thought-out responses, good luck to you.

    P.S. On a personal note, I would recommend an NVIDIA (I like MSI) graphics card, as they perform exceptionally well for the power usage, or an AMD Radeon, which is cost-effective and I like their software interface, especially for overclocking.
u/Zilfallion · 1 pointr/GAAB350

Where you can find the RAM QVL It's nice as a reference, but we've seen a lot of RAM compatability improvements in recent BIOS releases, while this list hasn't been updated since the board's release. ANY ram should work, more a matter of if you'll get full speed. At 2666, you probably won't have any issues hitting that speed.

Assuming you want to buy from Amazon, looks like the Corsair set is a tiny bit cheaper, in stock, and rated for faster speed. If you want the HyperX stuff that's fine too. Getting 3000MHz stuff to 2933 usually isn't too hard though. Like I said before, the 3200 mark is what's hard to reach these days. Honestly? Go with whoever you think will have better customer support or honor warranties incase you have errors after the 30 day return/replacement period with Amazon ends. Make sure you give the sticks a good Memtest run once you get your system running to check for errors NOW, and not discover you're having problems a month after you buy them.

Yeah, video card budget is a pain. I had 400 set aside for a video card, ideally a Vega56, 4 months later, I've dumped my budget into some nice headphones once I saw the December surge. Kind of regret not buying that one Gigabyte Vega 56 I saw for 420 one day back in like... october? but thought it'd come down a little more if I waited another week, or when Black Friday came around. Also regret not just settling on a 4gb 580 for 200 on the Black Friday sales. Oh well, can still game on my old HD 6950 on low, and listen to some nice headphones too.

It's possible to game on 8gb of RAM, you just may find yourself wanting to shut down your browser that's trying to suck 3-4gb when you start up a game. Browsers are HORRID RAM-Hogs these days. 16gb is a nice buffer or if you like to multitask a bit.

You can always grab an SSD in the future. It's about 80 dollars for a decent 250gb one. If you find a sale you might be able to snag for around 65-70. I'd be tempted to do this before getting 8 more gigs of RAM when you upgrade in the future if you're not a heavy multitasker.

Edit: One more thing, remember you can always try to manually overclock your RAM higher. It's POSSIBLE you could take a 2666 rated kit and get it to 2800 or 2933. Depends on your luck, patience, willingness to try.

u/AkaiKagami · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

CPU - Ryzen 5 1600 ($194.99) 

Motherboard - MSI B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 ($88.99)

RAM - Corsair Vengeance LPX 8gb ($92.99)

Storage - Seagate Barracuda 3.5" 2tb ($59.99)

GPU - MSI GTX 1050 Ti ($224.99)

Power Supply - Corsair CXM 550w ($59.99)

OS - Windows 10 64bit ($99.99) 

Wifi - Asus PCE-AC55BT B1 ($34.99)

Card Reader - Rosewill RDCR-11004 ($25.99)

Case - Corsair 200R Mid Tower ($59.99)****


TOTAL: $942.90 (Before Taxes) 

****This case is a placeholder. It works in this build, but I left room for you to choose your own.

Make sure the case is a Mid Tower ATX case, and has at least one 5.25 optical drive bay. 

-------------------
SPECS----

CPU: Ryzen 5 - 1600 (3.2ghz 6 core) 

GPU: GTX 1050ti

RAM: 8gb DDR4

Usb2.0: 8

Usb3.0: 2

Usb3.1: 4

Card Readers: Yes

Disk Drive: No

Wifi: Yes

Bluetooth: Yes (4.0)

HDMI: Yes

Ethernet: Yes

------------------
LINKS----

CPU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XNRQHG4/?tag=pcpapi-20


Motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPM7FSR/?tag=pcpapi-20


RAM: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARHBBPS/?tag=pcpapi-20


Storage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=dp_ob_neva_mobile


GPU: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814137055&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=


PowerSupply: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B72W0A2/?tag=pcpapi-20


OS: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZSI7Y3U/?tag=pcpapi-20


Wifi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0713RRZMB/?tag=pcpapi-20


Card Reader: https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-2-Port-Internal-Connector-RDCR-11004/dp/B007YDJJFS


Case: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GXZ8MM/?tag=pcpapi-20

***Oh, and if you need help with how to do it this guy is pretty good.
https://youtu.be/IhX0fOUYd8Q

u/nokmanoks2 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Assuming that you have a budget of exactly $1,000:

  • Use DDR4 RAM not DDR3, something like this which costs a lot cheaper.
  • Maybe remove the HDD and just buy one when you have enough money?
  • Seasonic M12II 80+ Bronze power supply costs cheaper
  • The R9 390 costs cheaper normally and performs a little better too

    That should give you exactly $1000.

    If you have around $1000, you should get:

  • Better HDD, don't get me wrong that's a good choice, but why only 500Gb? Just get a 1 Tb one.
  • Get a 650W PSU. Going a little over what's needed is always good, plus you don't want the PSU to be performing always at peak capacity, so you should get one that's a little more than what you need.

    Yes I do agree that a different mobo would be better, because for one your mobo likes to use DDR3L, which is slower than the new DDR4 and pricier too. You should get this or this instead.

    Lastly, if you're gonna play competitive CS:GO you should splurge on a 144Hz monitor like the BenQ XL2411Z, which is exactly what the pros use.
u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/buildapc

The first thing to keep in mind is the price: it's going to be hanging over the entire build.

The second thing to consider is what you already have: do you have a previous build that you can cannibalized some of the parts from. If so, this will save money on the build and open up money for better priced components.

As for deciding what to buy, go in this order:

cpu (including a decent cpu cooler)
motherboard
Operating system
ram
gpu
hard drive/ cd drives/ extraneous components
power supply unit
case

Picking the cpu comes first, as the cpu socket type determines what motherboard you can use. For gaming, I'd reccomend the i5 2500K (lga 1155 socket type).

Second comes the motherboard, which has the same socket type (lga 1155 for the i5 2500K) as the cpu. Also, try and find a motherboard that has an ideal chipset for the cpu that you pick. For example, the Intel P67 runs good with the i5 2500K. You can also do some google searching about chipsets for your desired cpu.

After the motherboard comes the OS, as it determines the amount of ram you can use. Since a 32 bit OS can only support 4 gigs of ram, it's important to decide this first before choosing a 32 bit OS and then paying for 16 gigs of ram and only being able to use 4 gigs of it. I'd recommend Window's 7 64 bit to optimize the amount of ram you can use in your build.

Now for the ram. Your motherboard and OS determine the amount of ram you can use. Most modern day motherboards use the DDR3, and which motherboard you choose determines the specifics of the ram. The motherboard determines the amount of ram it can facilitate, ranging from 8 to 32 GB. Keep this in mind when selecting your ram. For your build, 8 GB would be plenty. For my planned build, i've selected this ram due to price, size (GB), and it's frequency based on my motherboard.

Next comes the gpu. Since most modern gpu's use a PCI express slot, this choice isn't dependent upon the other components in your build. This one is really up to you, as GPU's can vary greatly in pricing and performance. I'd recommend checking out this site for more info about the price to performance ratio of different gpu's (and cpu's as well).

Next comes your hard drives and other extraneous things. I'd recommend a 5600 RPM HDD for your stated price range.

After that comes the PSU. Since everything before determines what psu out put you need (in watts), it comes next to last.

Last comes the case. Since your motherboard form and gpu size determine the case, it comes last. Usually, the more fans, and the larger the fans, the better. Also, look for the ability to run the wires behind the motherboard mount, as this improves airflow.

Hope this helps.

Edit: left out the ram details

u/opant108 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Ah gotcha. Maybe make these changes to save some money and have a little left over for a better monitor? These parts are comparable and form personal experience, work great. Motherboard and RAM. The RGB from the fans might be enough to make your build look how you want without the RGB RAM so there's a way to save some money. I think it's a small aesthetic sacrifice to pay for a monitor on which your games will play and look better. I bet you can also save a few bucks on a PSU that's in the 650W range. There are also these RGB fans that are slightly cheaper but do the job just as well. Just a thought but the build looks great either way. Good luck.

u/valkyr · 7 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

I'd definitely opt for the T440s over the T440p. The T440p is quite a fat system, at 1.3" thick. I mean maybe you're into thick stuff, but I find the T440s' 0.80" to be much more attractive. It's also half a pound lighter (or about the same weight when you config it with the 6-cell rear battery). Here's how I'd config one:

  • 4th Gen Intel Core i5-4200U Processor (3MB Cache, up to 2.60GHz)
  • Windows 8.1 64
  • T440s 14.0 HD+ WWAN (1600x900) - Upgrading to the 1080p screen might be worth the $120, but that's a personal preference call you'd have to make
  • Intel HD Graphics 4400 with docking connector
  • 4 GB DDR3L - SDRAM 1600MHz Base (They want $80 for the 4GB upgrade to 8GB total, which you can do very easily yourself, aftermarket, for less than half that)
  • 256GB Solid State Drive Serial ATA3
  • ThinkPad Battery 3 cell Li-Polymer (23.2Whr) Front
  • ThinkPad Battery 6 cell Li-Ion (72Wh) Cyl HC Rear
  • 45W AC Adapter - US (2pin)
  • Intel Dual Band Wireless 7260AC with Bluetooth 4.0 (upgraded WiFi b/c I'm sure at some point during the life of this sytem, you'll want to use the speed of AC, and it's only $30)

    Price: $1,164.60 when you sign in via the Barnes & Noble gold discount site (which you can create for free here: www.lenovo.com/barnesnoblegold)

    The only downside is the video performance would not be as good as the T440p with a discrete graphics card inside. The HD4400 will run Skyrim, but not very well. Here's a list of games and how they perform with the HD4400 and here's the GT730M for comparison. That's the trade-off really. There do exist systems that could game, somewhat portably, but I just don't think the GT 730m in the T440p is worth having to deal with such a heftier system. I think the durability, portability, and redongculous 14 and a half hour battery life (as tested by Laptop Magazine) outweigh some casual gaming. As far as audio quality goes, most laptops have the same internal sound cards. Fortunately there's some decent portable USB DACs on the market (like the Fiio E07K), if you're looking to upgrade your sound performance.

    Also keep in mind that the Lenovo Y40 is just around the corner (probably May?) if you're looking for something with some more gaming prowess that'll be in your sweetspot of portability. It won't have quite the durability of a ThinkPad, nor battery life, but its keyboard isn't far off from the ThinkPad's, and its gaming performance would be far more significant than anything a ThinkPad could offer.
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Description|I present to you my latest Build in the gorgeous Corsair Crystal 570X!⤶It's a Corsair themed RGB Build featuring a Ryzen 7 2700 @ 3.9GHz and a Zotac RTX 2070 AMP Edition @ 2040MHz. ⤶⤶DETAILS AND BENCHMARKS ON PCPARTPICKER: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/t9YTwP⤶⤶One of the fastest and most reliable ways to get Parts is with Amazon Prime! Get a 30 Day Free Trial now!:⤶ US: https://amzn.to/2TuQB44⤶ Germany: http://www.amazon.de/primegratistesten?tag=l2ptink3r-21⤶Need some simplistic and stylish basics? https://represent.com/store/l2ptink3r-apparel⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶⤶Parts (Affiliate Links, you support me by buying over one of the Links!):⤶AMD Ryzen 7 2700: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2RSusv4] [US:https://amzn.to/2DlmJ36] [UK: https://amzn.to/2I40qon]⤶⤶Corsair H60 (2018) 120mm Liquid Cooler: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2BtoFXf] [US: https://amzn.to/2WV1HRS] [UK: https://amzn.to/2DlnsRS]⤶⤶Asus ROF STRIX B450-F: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2DoLnjF] [US: https://amzn.to/2WV33vW] [UK: https://amzn.to/2BvQSNd] ⤶⤶Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB 3000MHz: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2SlX0SC] [US: https://amzn.to/2WSbLv8] [UK: https://amzn.to/2SniFK5]⤶⤶Samsung 970 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 SSD:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2tikZ64] [US: https://amzn.to/2GzWvgC]⤶⤶Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2BxwxXP] [US: https://amzn.to/2tj8YNL] [UK: https://amzn.to/2HZjPXs] ⤶⤶Zotac RTX 2070 AMP Edition: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2GiaxUN] [US: https://amzn.to/2GziaFR] [UK: https://amzn.to/2THDuN4] ⤶⤶Corsair Crystal 570X RGB ATX Mid Tower:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2Srqajv] [US: https://amzn.to/2tgMSvw] [UK: https://amzn.to/2UUpQGH] ⤶⤶be quiet! Pure Power 10 CM 600W:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2HZmwbw] [US alternative: https://amzn.to/2tinbKQ] [UK: https://amzn.to/2UPdv6z]⤶⤶Corsair SP120 RGB: [DE: https://amzn.to/2RPlyOF] - [UK: https://amzn.to/2SpEBo6]⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶You're interested in me building you a PC aswell and live in Germany? DM me, where ever you want! :D⤶IG: https://www.instagram.com/l2ptink3r/ ⤶Twitter: https://twitter.com/l2pTink3r_Jonny⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶⤶MY RIG: ⤶YT: https://youtu.be/XN-H_yHpjwU⤶PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/7cYTwP⤶⤶MY SETUP:⤶ASUS PB277Q 1MS WQHD Monitor: ⤶https://amzn.to/2Bcvdc3 / https://amzn.to/2Lbd8zs / https://amzn.to/2Bt6ujH⤶Razer Tresher 7.1 Headset: ⤶https://amzn.to/2BbP9eT / https://amzn.to/2PzqtSE / https://amzn.to/2Rdhr2Y⤶Razer Leviathan Soundbar: ⤶https://amzn.to/2C7SXzH / https://amzn.to/2QN2tjH / https://amzn.to/2Bxn8yR⤶Razer Blackwidow Chroma X (I fucking adore this Keyboard, check it out!): ⤶https://amzn.to/2SGGyYX / https://amzn.to/2QsxWZo / https://amzn.to/2R9rUw5⤶Razer Taipan Mouse: ⤶https://amzn.to/2zW4uAt / https://amzn.to/2PzKMQe / https://amzn.to/2EEGjdZ⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶1. Track: Bach: C Major Prelude⤶⤶2.Track: Sub Urban - Cradles [NCS Release]⤶Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.⤶Watch: https://youtu.be/Hn4sfC2PbhI⤶Free Download / Stream: http://ncs.io/CradlesYO⤶⤶3.Track: Cartoon - Why we lose (feat. Coleman Trapp) [NCS Release]⤶Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.⤶Watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyXmsVwZqX4⤶Free Download / Stream: http://ncs.io/whywelose

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u/thefeebster · 1 pointr/buildapc

The new build does look fine. That is quite a good deal on the 1060. You could shave off a few dollars for different RAM, same Mhz on amazon (Corsair/Crucial), unless you are set on Kingston. Or do even better with the Corsair Vengeance 3000Mhz $62 (Select the sold by amazon one) https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0123ZBPDA/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

I only did a brief look to see the games you play and how well they do with the budget GPUs suggested, didn't find a lot of benchmarks, besides Arma 3... in which the 1060 3GB consistently outperformed the 470.

I recently made the jump from Win7 to Win10. I agree, it seems to boot faster and perform a bit better. But i think you could give it try to see if you can upgrade for free. I just did it 2 weeks ago and it worked, despite being well outside the free upgrade period. Didn't even have to do the "accessibility" workaround, which you can also do to save a few dollars.

u/palasso · 6 pointsr/LinuxActionShow

So lets compare the new Mac mini MGEM2LL/A that just got announced for the price of $499 with the Gigabyte BRIX Pro GB-BXi5-4570R that's more than half a year old and can be found for $470 and shipped within a few days.

CPU BRIX Wins

1.4Ghz (up to 2.7) dual-core (with hyperthreading) i5 with 3MB cache vs 2.7GHz (up to 3.2) quad-core i5 4MB cache (all Haswell)

GPU BRIX Wins

HD 5000 vs Iris Pro 5200

RAM BRIX Wins

4GB 1600MHz soldered vs free to choose (lets pick the same here +$39)

Storage BRIX Wins

500GB 5400rpm vs free to choose (lets pick the same here +$43.50)

Wireless BRIX Wins

802.11ac + Bluetooth 4.0 vs free to choose (lets pick the same here +$33)

Ports Apple Wins

2 Thunderbolt more, SDXC card slot, IR Receiver, 2 audio ports vs 1 MiniDisplayPort more, Kensington lock

Size BRIX Wins

Mac mini vs NUC and NUC vs BRIX Pro. Note the power brick is external in BRIX Pro.

Warranty Tie for Geeks / Apple Wins for n00bs

1 year limited warranty extended to 3 years with AppleCare +$99 vs 3 years GIGABYTE warranty.

Note how I googled the web for the different parts earlier for BRIX and have to put them inside the BRIX while with Apple you just go to one website and it comes pre-assembled. Also I think AppleCare is better suited for newbies.

Price BRIX Wins

$598 vs $585.5

Availability BRIX Wins

Mac Mini was just announced and still hasn't shipped, BRIX is already shipping worldwide for more than half a year.

OS BRIX Wins Linux Wins

Mac Mini includes OS X and can somewhat run Windows and Linux. BRIX doesn't include OS but supports better the best OS out there (notice Intel's dual band wifi + bluetooth card and Iris Pro graphics) while it can run Windows and nowadays Hackintosh is easy to install.

u/Dragonsc4r · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

First off, thank you a ton. I asked a friend of mine to look at the build (sorry, but I like to check things :P, I'm paranoid), and he said it looks great. I was curious though if you had the time to verify a few things for me. I couldn't find a few of the things you had suggested so I checked on some other things... Could you verify that they are just as usable for me please?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GQMHBI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A34FFV8YYDM571

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064GOQ86/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DHW4HXY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055QYKQO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1XBPHGHAXLHDG

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004QBUL1C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0033Z2BAQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30YNTVQ04HG16

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003HE260I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

And sorry for the late reply. I've been trying to ensure that I have the money together so that I can actually pay for it without running into issues haha.

u/JM0804 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks for your input :)

I had a look for RAM with those specifications but couldn't find any on the ASRock memory QVL.

I'll keep a look out for used DC S3710's on eBay but right now I can only see them starting around £200 and shipping from the USA, which puts me well above my budget. The SSD will only be used for the OS, system files, and perhaps mostly read-only stuff like the web server files and Baikal. Will that be ok on a regular SSD like the one I've chosen?

As far as I know the processor doesn't come with a cooler as it is a BOX model (YD1700BBAEBOX).

If I do decide to stick with the motherboard I will definitely get in touch with them about that. Thank you for bringing it to my attention.

Edit: I found this RAM which is on the QVL and is 3200MHz C16, would that be ok? Alternatively there's this 3600MHz C16 set or this 3466MHz C16 set.

u/IanPPK · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

An i5 6400 at $188, MSI H110m PRO-VD plus at $51, and a Corsair Vengeance 8GB stick at $57 (all items may include tax) will be just within reach if you are able to spend a little bit more. They should give decent performance with the 960 2GB as well as offer a decent upgrade path. To add, the 6000 series, while one generation behind, is almost the same chip as the 7000 series equivalents, so you save money and get almost the same performance.

You could also go with an i3 6100 at ~$100 ($85 savings), but that makes for a more expensive upgrade path since it's a dual core single thread CPU, or you can get an i5 6500 for a little more than the 6400.

1 stick of 8GB ram leaves you room for another stick for 16GB instead of a 16GB kit down the road with 2x4GB should you want more (get the same one if you care about dual channel). These items should all have prime shipping at the prices I listed.

The only caveat to a motherboard upgrade is that Windows will deactivate as it affiliates with motherboards, but you shouldn't feel guilty for using a tool to reactivate in this case. MS support might even give you another through chat if you want to go that route.

Gimme a sec and I'll link to Amazon my initial recommendations.


Intel Boxed Core I5-6400 FC-LGA14C 2.70 Ghz 6 M Processor Cache 4 LGA 1151 BX80662I56400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010T6CG7E Go to the price list and there should be a prime seller with 100% at $183.

MSI Computer DIMM LGA 1151 Motherboards H110M PRO-VD PLUS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HTEA0HC the seller at this page should be the best deal atm.

Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 DRAM 2400MHz C16 Memory Kit, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARHBBPS This is probably around the cheapest 8GB DDR4 that can be had at the moment. You can shop around for better prices though.

u/Funski33 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks for your suggestions!

Motherboard: I searched for a cheaper B85 but the best I could find was $50, but I feel like I'm losing more than $40 in value by doing so.

RAM: I found (slightly) cheaper RAM, but it was from a brand I hadn't heard of before and only saved me $10 at most. I did find this Kingston set for the exact same price.

Graphics card: I only added this cheap one in because I got grilled for the last computer I submitted without one...I guess this would be easy to add back in should the need arise.

Windows 8: Thanks, I forgot about that!

u/lilbushie · 4 pointsr/pcmasterrace

So if I were to wait after upgrading the CPU/Mobo/RAM to upgrade my gpu (It's just, for a lack of better terms, a shitload of money), it may not be optimal but it would run fine, just not max settings on everything? Which I am fine with until I upgrade the GPU haha.

Are there any cheap motherboards that would fancy my situation well? I saw a highly recommended one (The Prime X370-Pro) but was wondering if I could go any cheaper without suffering a huge loss.

Also, in terms of RAM (which I know very little about), would these work well with the Ryzen? https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Channel-3200MHz-Trident-F4-3200C16D-16GTZB/dp/B015FY3BJ2

Thank you so much for the help by the way.

u/CaptainCab21 · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

That is pretty tight budget provided you want decent ram, power supply and motherboard.

But This it what i found

EVGA 500 watt 80+ white Power Supply £38.81 .

https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0500-K3/dp/B01E4YRP8W/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=power+supply&qid=1573085737&sr=8-15 not the best psu but will work fine for your parts and budget.

Gigabyte B450M DS3H Motherboard £63.11 .

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GIGABYTE-B450M-DS3H-S-ATA-Socket/dp/B07FKNM8FQ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=676TTNTCMXBC&keywords=am4+motherboard&qid=1573085905&sprefix=am4++%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-1

AeroCool ATX Case £37.99.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Aerocool-Mid-Tower-Tempered-Lighting-Included/dp/B07HWF3QY2/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=atx+case&qid=1573086472&sr=8-8

Crucial BX500 240gb SSD £29.50.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Crucial-CT240BX500SSD1Z-Internal-Solid-State/dp/B07G3KRZBX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=bx500&qid=1573086566&sr=8-1

Corsair DDR4 2400mhz 2x8gb Ram £53.99.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMK16GX4M2A2400C16-Vengeance-Performance-Desktop/dp/B017NW5NZY/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=corsair+ram&qid=1573086613&sr=8-15

Total Price is £223.4‬. The best i could go without going to cheap.

​

If you were able to spend like £300 you could get better parts and would probably be happier with the final result.

u/pugdogs10 · 1 pointr/PcMasterRaceBuilds

Wow this was so incredibly helpful, thank you! So if I do upgrade to the motherboard you posted, which I think I'm going to, would you suggest 2x8GB RAM or 4x4? I'm not sure if there is a difference between the two. Will any DDR4 RAM fit in my motherboard? I found a 2x4GB DDR4-3000 on amazon and want to make sure it would fit before I order.

For the video card I mostly plan on playing games like fortnite and rocketleague, will the GTX 1060 3GB be good enough for that? I really don't need super high level graphics, but obviously I still want it to look good. I just want to make sure it runs at 1080p 60 fps. Im also wondering how important single vs double fan is?

EDIT: I also noticed on that motherboard you posted it says 4x DDR4-2667/2400/2133 for memory. DOes that mean I can't use DDR4 2666?

u/TheShadowBlade92 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

The power supply will be fine. The i5 and motherboard are a little bit dated, 4GB of memory should probably be upgraded to at least 8GB for modern gaming. You could buy an R9 290 for under $300. You could keep the Radeon HD 5870 (it should still be fine to play games at 1080p medium settings, unless the titles have been ubisofted) and upgrade CPU and Motherboard, then upgrade the 5870 in a month or two. One last thing: upgrade to GTX 750 Ti FTW from EVGA, LGA 1150 motherboard, Pentium G3258, 8GB RAM. That will give you plenty of options for upgrades. You could go as far as a Core i7 + GTX 980 later. The power supply will hold up to any of these options.

Links to items on Amazon:

Just R9 290

R9 290 - http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Computer-Corp-290-GAMING/dp/B00HPS4AFG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419091411&sr=8-3&keywords=r9+290

Keep the HD 5870 and upgrade CPU + Motherboard

Core i5 4670K - http://www.amazon.com/Intel-i5-4670K-Quad-Core-Desktop-Processor/dp/B00CO8TBOW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419091540&sr=8-1&keywords=core+i5+4570k

Motherboard - http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-B85M-E-CSM-DDR3-Motherboard/dp/B00CRJU2X2/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1419091591&sr=8-16&keywords=lga+1150+motherboard

Pentium G3258, GTX 750 Ti FTW, LGA 1150 motherboard, 8GB RAM.

Pentium G3258 - http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Pentium-Processor-G3258-BX80646G3258/dp/B00KPRWAZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419090974&sr=8-1&keywords=pentium+g3258

MSI motherboard - http://www.amazon.com/MSI-Computer-MicroATX-Motherboard-H81M-E33/dp/B00F42W70A/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1419090913&sr=8-5&keywords=lga+1150+motherboard

GTX 750 Ti FTW - http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Display-Graphics-02G-P4-3757-KR/dp/B00J0ISHMQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419090882&sr=8-1&keywords=750+ti+ftw

8GB RAM - http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E93G6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1419091061&sr=1-1&keywords=8GB+ram

Yes, I realize some of these are slightly over a total of $300. Also these options (aside from r9 290) give the system plenty of room to upgrade. As for power supply, the TX 650 should be fine. Reuse your old hard drive and reuse your case.

u/Stealthmoder · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm probably going to just get a new CPU, motherboard and RAM because it seems like a better idea in the long run than to just limit myself to what my current board can utilize and my RAM could definitely be better anyways, so meh why not. Thanks again though, I appreciate it. :)

I'm currently thinking about this:

  1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07598VZR8/ref=twister_B07CN3RVTF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

  2. https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157816&Description=intel%20300%20series%20motherboard&cm_re=intel_300_series_motherboard-_-13-157-816-_-Product

  3. https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2666MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0123ZC44Y/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1543129405&sr=1-1&keywords=2666

    What do you think? I think it's pretty good.
u/blackcat0 · 1 pointr/buildapc
Hey! Thanks so much for the suggestions. I don't intend to do any overclocking, so it seems like a good choice to swap out the CPU. I've changed the motherboard, graphics card and found myself a nice hard drive

Do you think this is a better build for me?


Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6600 3.3GHz | £200 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte Intel LGA1151 D3HP Motherboard | £100 @ Amazon
GPU | Zotac GeForce GTX 1060 1152 NVIDIA CUDA Cores Mini 3 GB | £185 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair CMK8GX4M2B3000C15 Vengeance LPX 8GB (2x4GB) DDR4 3000Mhz CL15 XMP 2.0 | £50 @ Amazon
PSU | Corsair CP-9020102-UK CX Series 550W Power Supply Unit | £60 @ Amazon
SSD | Silicon Power Slim 120 GB SSD | £40 @ Amazon
HD | Toshiba P300 High Performance 1TB Internal Hard Drive | £40 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair Carbide Series 400C Mid-Tower ATX Performance Computer Case - Black | £97 @ Amazon
|| Total
| (Prices include shipping and discounts when available.) | £775.50

Also, thanks for the heads up, I'll try and find my hard drives somewhere else.
u/AutoModerator · 1 pointr/HardwareSwapUK

Please read this before trading:


u/The--Technician · 3 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

So for video editing definitely you need a laptop with a quad core processor preferably an i7 6th generation CPU..I also recommend 8 GB RAM or above-- 16 GB is awesome... Go for the Dell Inspiron i7559-2512BLK lapotp for a little over $800 and purchase this Kingston Technology 8GB 1600MHz DDR3L RAM to give it a total of 16 GB RAM which really completes this machine... It will get your video editing tasks done easily as well as it will run those games you mentioned very well, thanks to its gtx 960 dedicated graphics card paired with the other great components.

u/Lyok · 1 pointr/computers

RAM: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T63BJM (Replace what you have)
GPU: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07115GPN7

​

That's about as close as you'll get, but if you're wanting to play newer titles at graphic quality settings above medium, you'll need to increase your budget. If you're wanting hardware to play "high end games on great graphics" and 2 8GB sticks of DDR3 RAM, you'll want to save up at least $600 (accounting for shipping and tax).

u/Furderhur · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thank you for doing this. /u/chopdok recommended I keep the CPU and just upgrade the rest.

quoting this:

>?1) Get her a new GPU. GTX 1060 or RX 480, depending on whether you prefer AMD or nVidia.

>2) Get her an SSD. 240GB would be good.

>3) Might as well grab 8GB of DDR3 RAM while at it.

>4) Grab a CPU cooler while at it. Nothing fancy, Cooler Master TX3 would do just fine, I doubt she or you are into overclocking.

>4) Open up the rig, and before putting in the upgrades - clean everything(that is not being replaced) thoroughly.

>5) Do a clean install of Windows 10 OS on that new SSD.

>6) Run an anti-virus scan after everything is done.

Would you recommend this?

I found these parts for what he recommended

GPUS:

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-GAMING-GeForce-GTX-1060/dp/B01IEKYD5U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473727662&sr=1-1&keywords=gtx+1060

Or (I dont know what the difference in these 2 would be?)

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Support-Graphics-06G-P4-6161-KR/dp/B01IPVSGEC/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473727662&sr=1-2&keywords=gtx+1060

SSD:

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-SSDNow-SUV400S37-240G/dp/B01FJ4UL2S/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473727776&sr=1-2&keywords=SSD+240

Ram:

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E93G6/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473727856&sr=1-5&keywords=8GB+of+DDR3

Cooling fan:

https://www.amazon.com/Hyper-TX3-Cooler-Direct-Contact/dp/B005HIRDUA/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1473727966&sr=1-11&keywords=CPU+cooler

Is this ok to do as it would cost less? Would this still provide good performance and a big upgrade on the current rig? Or would you recommend just upgrading fully?

u/Stevictory · 2 pointsr/forza

Hmm, so it looks like it is a 7200rpm HDD so that should not be an issue. If you're passing vehicles and getting the fps drops, it could be the RAM not being fast enough/big enough to store the new data.

On the bright side, SSDs are cheap these days compared to 5 years ago and you can pick up a 240GB one strictly dedicated to FH4 and a few other games for 30 bucks.

If I were you, I would try upgrading RAM first to and see if the issue still persists since it is at the minimum of the minimum requirements. The HDD running at 100% is a bit concerning to me as well. Hence, maybe both may be the best route. This RAM and this SSD would run for 110 total.

And if you do get an SSD, make sure to get a sata 3 cable and ensure to plug it into the sata 3 port on your MOBO


Edit: Also, quick clarification question. Is it consistently at 100% or is it variable? If its variable that's fine as it is simply loading new areas and then stopping once loaded. Variable = 1-5 seconds in this case. In that sense, you may just need the RAM upgrade.

u/JessicaCelone · 4 pointsr/bapcsalescanada
I decided to try building an entry PC based on the sales on this site, this is what i have so far.

This ebay coupon still works for me – $20 off $75 ebay purchase

Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
--|:--|:--|--:|:--
CPU|I3-6100.|Ebay|$156-$36=$120|Thread
Mobo|Gigabyte GA-H110M-A|Amazon|$65-$10= $55|Thread
Ram|8GB DDR4 2400Hz|Amazon|$75-$25= $60|None.
GPU|GTX 1050Ti|Ebay.|$215-$45=$170|Thread
Case|Bitfenix Comrade Black Window ATX Mid|NCIX|$104-$69= $35|None
PSU|Corsair Builder Series Modular CX550M|Canada Computers|$90-$15-$20MIR= $55|Thread
Drive|250GB 850 evo SSD|Newegg.ca|$190-$80=$110|None
Total| | |$505-$20MIR=$485|


I used the GTX 1050Ti because people at this pricerange (Like myself) just want good cheap 1080p@60hz performance, without worrying too much about stats, or $/FPS ratios. I did see a couple other options though, either up or down ~$50 will both get you great cards for the money, letting you fiddle with the build to match your budget.

Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
--|:--|:--|--:|:--
GPU|Zotac GTX 1050 Mini|The Source|$150-$25Coupon=$125|Thread
GPU|Asus Strix RX 470|Canada Computers|$275-$15-$30MIR=$230|Thread


For people who don’t have a PC already, or even just want to upgrade

Part|Choice|Store|Cost|Thread
--|:--|:--|--:|:--
Monitor|Samsung 22” FHD TN | Visions.ca|$180-$81=$99|Thread
OS|Windows 10 free trial|Microsoft.com|$0|None|
HDD|Seagate Baricuda 7200RPM|NCIX|$150-$50=$100|Thread

I used the free trial for about 6 months while saving up after buying my PC, everything works fine as long as you’re ok with not being able customize, and having a watermark in the bottom right. Unless they patched it, you can even change the wallpaper through the browser.
u/Christopho · 1 pointr/buildapc

I was wondering if there's any discernible difference between this RAM kit and this RAM kit? I'm having trouble what to search to get proper benchmarks between the two, so I wouldn't mind if you just linked a review that covers it if that's what you prefer.

I initially went for the Elite series (first link) for $60 but was later told by the vendor that they wouldn't be able to sell it to me anymore. However, what they could do is give me the non-Elite series (second link) for the same price. It was a spur of the moment thing and I figured I wouldn't be able to sit on it so I just accepted it.

Either way, I feel like $60 for 8 GB DDR4 3000 RAM is pretty good with the prices right now. I just want to know if it was a 1:1 trade essentially or if I was downgraded significantly. If it matters, I'll be using it with the Ryzen 3 1200 and Asus B350-F Strix mobo.

Any general thoughts about the RAM would be welcome as well.

u/Michiganders · 3 pointsr/SuggestALaptop

I would probably suggest something like the Acer Aspire from Newegg that I listed. It won't be as lightweight and portable as you'd probably like, but it's kaby lake i5 and 8gb of ram will work well for multi-tasking. Also it has a 1080p display.

You could also consider the cheaper Acer E15 from Amazon. I would strongly suggest upgrading the ram yourself though, as 4gb likely won't be enough for you. Upgrading the ram is pretty easy on this Acer and there are countless videos of it being done. Ram is on sale for around $60 for an 8gb stick.

u/jorbanead · 1 pointr/LogicPro

The 2018 Mac mini supports SODIMM DDR4 2666 MT/s memory. There are only TWO slots on the Mac mini so keep that in mind. Here is the ram I got. It’s not as easy as the iMac to upgrade ram, so you’ll need special torx screwdrivers. They are pretty cheap though and you can find some on Amazon. Just google Mac Mini 2018 RAM replacement and follow one of the videos. IFixit has one.

I should caution you, SOME people are experiencing audio issues with T2 Macs. The Mac mini is a T2 Mac and you may encounter some of these issues. Personally, I have not experienced ANY issue with audio on my Mac mini. I’ve used both USB and Thunderbolt interfaces at every sample rate, and it’s totally fine. Maybe I got lucky... I don’t know.

If you want to be safe, you may just want to find a refurbished 27” iMac on the Apple store. Ram is easy to upgrade, and you’ll be able to find a cheaper model that’s refurbished. Refurb products are basically like new if you’re getting them from Apple.

u/NessInOnett · 1 pointr/computers

I've never actually tried to put DDR3 into a DDR3L slot, but I don't think that RAM won't work.. you need DDR3L. I have an Intel NUC that uses DDR3L and I remember reading that normal RAM will not work at all.

This will work just fine for you: http://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-Technology-1600MHz-PC3-12800-KVR16LS11/dp/B00CQ35GYE/

PC3-12800 = The theoretical maximum bandwidth, or the volume of data that can be passed through the RAM per second.. the higher the better. The number is megabytes/second (12800MB/s aka 12.8GB/s). Doesn't matter all that much for general computing.. all RAM is screaming fast.

CL10 = CAS Latency of 10. It's a complex subject, but this is just one of the RAM timings.. the lower the CAS latency, the better. 9 to 11 is pretty typical, and the difference is honestly pretty negligible

u/Arm-the-homeless · 5 pointsr/buildapcsales

I have this notebook.

  • When you get this laptop you'll want to update all the drivers immediately. The wifi will drop connections sporadically and refuse to reconnect without a reboot until you get the updated driver.

  • This laptop comes with minimal bloat. Pretty much uninstall Mcafee and you're done. Theres a few Dell programs I didn't need and I think it came with an Office 365 trial but no Wildtangent games or any stupid shit like that.

  • This is a cheap gaming laptop, they shoehorned a 960m in here by cutting corners on the screen. It is adequate, but definitely low-end. My laptop has noticable backlight bleed at the bottom. It's only really apparent on a black screen, but it's there. I don't even want to know how bad the color accuracy is, I can only imagine. Forget about photo editing on this thing. It's fine for gaming though, no noticable input lag or anything like that. Edit: Just to clarify, the colors don't seem 'off' to me. The viewing angles are great and everything looks as it should. I just think, given the overall quality of everything else and the obvious backlight bleed that somehow passed QC, that the screen is obviously where they decided to skimp a bit to sell this laptop at $800. Other reviews that I read before buying the laptop all commented on the low quality of the screen, that it uses a cheap panel, and I'd agree with them. It's closer in quality to the ~$100 secondary HP IPS screen on my wife's desktop than the ~$400 LG IPS she uses as her main display. It's still a decent screen though. Just not going to win any awards.

  • The hinge is pretty average. It doesn't feel loose or flimsy but it also doesn't feel like it would stand up to much abuse.

  • Temps are great. The cooling on this thing is really something. Fan speeds don't go to full blast often, but when it does it's loud. Like those Delta 80mm fans everyone used to use on their copper coolers back in the day loud. Use headphones.

  • Speaking of using headphones, the sound quality of the speakers is pretty meh. It's a definite improvement over the typical tinny sound you'll get out of a cheap laptop, due to the 'subwoofer', but it's still thin sounding.

  • This laptop does use Nvidia Optimus, with all the issues that brings with it. Civ V wanted to use the Intel graphics until I went into the Nvidia Control Panel and forced it to use 960m. So if you run a game and the framerates suck, that's probably the problem.

  • The finish is nice to feel but it's a freaking fingerprint magnet. I just wipe it down with a dry paper towel after using it to keep it from looking gross.

  • You CAN toggle the Fn defaults in the BIOS, for those of you who like having your function keys work like they're supposed to.

  • The keyboard is roomy. The backlighting is a nice touch. Only thing I hate are the tiny arrow keys but having a numeric keypad makes up for it. Numlock defaults to off. Haven't figured out how to change that yet, kind of annoying.

  • The SSD in this thing is M.2 which leaves a standard 2.5" drive bay open for another SSD or hard drive.

  • For ~$35 you can get yourself another 8gb of RAM.

  • This mouse is cheap, small enough to tote along, matches the red/black trim of the laptop and tracks well on all surfaces I've tried, from couch cushions to kitchen tables. Battery life is good too.

    If I think of anything else I'll edit. Feel free to ask any questions. Overall I'm very happy with the laptop. It's not perfect but if you're looking for something that can game while you're on the run without spending a bunch of money this is more than enough performance for everything I've tried to play on it.
u/Kazu2002 · 3 pointsr/Dell

I just got the Dell 15 7590, Core i7, 8 Gb ram, and 225 ssd.

I upgraded to 32 Gbs of ram with: Crucial 32GB Kit (16GBx2) DDR4... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071H38422?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

and

my ssd's speed and storage to 500 Gbs with: Samsung 970 EVO Plus SSD 500GB -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M7Q21N7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Note:
Before opening up your laptop to upgrade, you need to have Windows 10 on a flash drive with at least 8 Gbs of space.

Also have your wifi drivers downloaded before hand so that you don't have to go through the hassle afterwards: https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/29122/Windows-10-Wi-Fi-Drivers-for-Intel-Wireless-Adapters?v=t

After you have your laptop running back up, make sure to update everything including your drivers which you can find in the Dell's support page. (You might run into problems if you don't)


If you are technologically inclined, you should download throttlestop and do some undervolting to increase performance as well as save battery.
(if you have any questions, you can ask me bc I did my research and learned everything already)

Some links to help you with this:

https://www.ultrabookreview.com/31385-the-throttlestop-guide/

http://imgur.com/a/UqUBx9R

^^^ this would be a good idea since XPS15's have a thermal issue and this could significantly reduce the heat

u/indrora · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Intel celeron nuc: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HVKLSVC/

Ram (4gb): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQ35GYE/

Disk: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9TECFO/

Sidecar: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ELQZD10/

Cost of RAM + Disk: $83.99, leaving $216. If we use the Celeron NUC, we have $81 left, enough for a small SSD or Wifi. Bump the cost up to $350 and we have enough for an i3 + wifi when we use the i3 NUC ( http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HOJAVDG/ ).

The SSD can easily hold an OS if you're using it purely for the OS, but there's some Intel trickery you can use to make it into a cache, or just use it as a storage disk for "Things that are small". Like uh, Business Documents. Plus, it's upgradable to anyone with a screwdriver and a copy of the manual. Plus, the NUCs make the little intel Ding-Da-dun-da-ding sound whenever you open the packaging.

Oh, and 1080p up to 4k. A friend of mine uses a NUC to run his dual 4k coding setup. Oh, and play quake in glorious 4k 120fps.

u/javonharper · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I have a PC that I built FIVE YEARS AGO HERE that I never really touched since I got my laptop. I'm now getting back into casual PC gaming but don't know much about the hardware spec scene nowadays. I've been reading and it seems that I might be fine keeping my CPU but I'd likely need more RAM (2x4GB) and definitely a better graphics card. At this point I'm afraid of getting semi-expensive equipment only for me to have to redo the whole thing.

For reference I'm trying to play games like X-COM 2 (2016) and Dawn of War III (2017).

I've been looking at this RAM ( Kingston HyperX FURY 8GB )

And this GPU (NVIDIA GeForce 770)


So here are my questions:

  • Am I fine keeping my AMD Phenom II X4 955 CPU? How often do folks typically update their chips?
  • If I need to upgrade the CPU , will I need to replace my ASRock M3A770DE AM3 AMD 770 ATX AMD Motherboard?
  • Can I buy the RAM and GPU linked above without fear that It won't run with the rest of my hardware?
  • Are there better GPUs I could be looking at this price point? I literally googled the recommended GPU from Steam and it seems to do the job, from the looks of it.
  • How should I approach making updates to my rig knowing that some pieces are majorly outdated?


    Thanks in advance-- you guys and gals are wizards.


u/thedanielnelson · 4 pointsr/MSI_Gaming

I posted a few times on here and wanted to give an update for people who had the B450 Tomahawk. I just returned mine to Best Buy yesterday and bought the B450 Gaming Plus off of Amazon. I took it out, plugged the ATX 24 pin power into it and flashed it with the most recent gaming plus USB once. The red CPU light was still on when it restarted, and I turned it off. Put everything back into my case and booted up and worked with no issues.

​

I am installing windows now. My specs:
Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 X 8GB) DDR4 3000 (PC4-24000) C16 1.35V Desktop Memory - Black PC Memory CMK16GX4M2D3000C16

WD Blue 1TB PC Hard Drive - 7200 RPM Class, SATA 6 Gb/s, 64 MB Cache, 3.5" - WD10EZEX
Thermaltake Smart 700W 80+ White Certified PSU, Continuous Power with 120mm Ultra Quiet Fan, ATX 12V V2.3/EPS 12V Active PFC Power Supply PS-SPD-0700NPCWUS-W

Rosewill ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case with Side Window, Gaming Case with LED for Desktop/ PC including 3 x 120mm Fans for Outstanding Ventilation, 2 X USB 3.0 Ports (BRADLEY M)

Ryzen 5 3600

AMD GeForce GTX1050Ti GPU

B450 Gaming Plus.

u/BSamuelC · 1 pointr/buildapc

You're welcome, just remember you can make a trial for amazon fresh so no need to pay any fees, also [here] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CMK8GX4M2B3000C15-Vengeance-3000Mhz-Performance/dp/B0123ZBPDA/ref=sr_1_2?s=amazonfresh&ie=UTF8&qid=1502116686&sr=1-2&ppw=fresh&keywords=ddr4) is a good set of 3000 ram, of the same type you picked just faster.

They also got [this 1050 Ti] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/bce/EVGA-NVIDIA-GeForce-Superclock-GAMING-Express-Graphics/B01MG0ZJRO/ref=sr_1_1?s=amazonfresh&ie=UTF8&qid=1502116838&sr=1-1&ppw=fresh&keywords=gtx) on there, as well as a few other 1050/Ti from 90-150GBP.

They also give you an allocated time slot for delivery, so if you know you're going to be at home 100% at 5pm, they will arrive at that time.

Good luck with PC building.

u/MMR9000 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

>I can overclock with it right?

Yep, all B350 boards support overclocking.

>In terms of the ram you're saying I would be better off with 2400 cl14 ram that I overclock than cl 16 3200 rated ram?

Yes, unlike Intel systems which RAM is usually rated for, Ryzen cares more about the type of IC used on the RAM than it's rating. Most 2400MHz - 3200MHz kits are Hynix MFR/AFR, and should overclock similarly on Ryzen.

>Is this ok?

That's a SODIMM - it's designed to be smaller to fit inside laptops and won't fit the RAM slots on your motherboard. I'd suggest this instead

u/DragoI11 · 1 pointr/WindowsMR

Okay... Some of those questions are way over my head, so I'm doing the best I can to answer with google's help.

Motherboard: Gigabyte z370 HD3 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0762V6Y7Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Ram: Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 DRAM 2400 MHz - 2 cards in slots 2 and 4 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARHBBPS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

So the background for "setting up the pc"

My brother initially built this computer last year for video editing. Most of the stuff was already in there, but it didn't have a graphics card and he took the SSD. He no longer uses it, and so I bought a Samsung 860 EVO SSD and the MSI 1660 TI graphics card, and installed windows on it. I just called him to try to answer some of these questions and stumbled upon something that may be important. He had initially built it as a "Hackintosh" so that he could run whatever the apple video editing software is. He said that it "shouldn't be an issue" with windows, but told me that "hyperthreading is disabled in the BIOS because apple doesn't like that."

I have a loose grasp on hyperthreading and would assume that it's not my limiting factor being that the CPU doesn't max out when playing, but that's the situation.

The way I installed windows was through the windows installation tool on the microsoft website via a flash drive.

I downloaded the MSI program to get the driver for the video card, and manually installed the driver for the wifi/bluetooth card that I installed, but other than that I don't recall manually installing anything else. When I plugged in the VR headset, windows VR Portal automatically updated some things, and I assumed it was fine.

Monitor is some old cheap dell monitor we had lying around. Definitely not a high end gaming display of any sort.

I didn't see any "adaptive quality" or similar things in the settings, but I did turn the detail and other graphics settings down to "low," it was initially on "ultra," and If it made a difference it wasn't very much.

I don't know how to tell if I'm on the latest WMR build, but I just installed windows and then the headset a couple days ago, so I'd assume the auto update did it?

I'm not sure how to check that I'm outputting on the video card. I know for sure that the VR is plugged into the graphics card, but I have a feeling it's more complicated than that. A quick google search didn't help, but I'll look a bit more and try to find out as soon as I post this.

I really appreciate the help.

edit: On second thought I do think I downloaded the "chipset" drivers for the motherboard from the gigabyte website.

when you say "install drivers for everything" (I'm assuming that I'm going to need to do this) What exactly is "everything"...? Does that mean like the big parts like GPU, RAM, etc? Or is there some program that I need to literally search for drivers for everything?

u/BluSkyChameleon · 1 pointr/gaming

Awesome! Ok so I have decided that if I want a pc that’s better than the prebuilt one that I already have, I’m going to have to spend more. Therefore I have raised my budget to the $350 to $400 range. I have also assembled a list of parts that I would like to run by you because you seem like you know what you are doing.

APU: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Radeon-Graphics/dp/B079D8FD28

MoBo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0722FDQDF/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1522789980&sr=1-4&refinements=p_n_condition-type%3A6461716011%2Cp_72%3A2661618011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=GIGABYTE&dpPl=1&dpID=51WYBQTbBAL&ref=plSrch

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071JZBPST/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1522790090&sr=1-8&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906983011%7C6906984011&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=513ebZ%2B8FEL&ref=plSrch

Memory: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005T63BJM/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522790271&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=8gb+ram&dpPl=1&dpID=51d-RxwZ0PL&ref=plSrch

Hard Drive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013HNYV9W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522790376&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=wd+blue+500gb&dpPl=1&dpID=51URXFlzPaL&ref=plSrch

Case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IT0TDY6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522790445&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=pc%2Bcase&psc=1&th=1

u/rustplayer83 · 11 pointsr/playrust

Because I'm bored and do this for a living I'm going to put together an alt build for you:

Nice entry level Skylake gaming Mobo (I've used this, it's nice, has USB 3.1 which will be very helpful in the coming years for data transfers)

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Gaming-Skylake-Motherboard-H110M/dp/B01B4U47E4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486579857&sr=1-2&keywords=lga+1151

Processor: G440

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-BX80662G4400-Pentium-Processor-FCLGA1151/dp/B015VPX05A

RAM (only 8GB but get 16 if you can afford another $40 or so)

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-2133MHz-Non-ECC-HX421C14FBK2/dp/B00TY6A1P0/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486579959&sr=1-5&keywords=DDR4

Video card:

RX 470 OC edition, I like this card great bang for the buck:

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Radeon-RX-470-ARMOR/dp/B01N3TCNNW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486580034&sr=1-1&keywords=RX+470+4gb

SSD: budget one, but way better than a spinning drive:

https://www.amazon.com/Silicon-Power-240GB-Internal-SP240GBSS3S55S25AE/dp/B01M61OWRI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486580111&sr=1-1&keywords=240gb+ssd

Power supply:

no reason to spend more with this build:

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Warranty-Power-Supply-100-N1-0400-L1/dp/B00LV8TZAG/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486580138&sr=1-1&keywords=400+watt+power+supply

Case:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-VERSA-Micro-Gaming-Computer/dp/B01CLIZ698/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486580162&sr=1-5&keywords=micro+atx+case

total cost of build is roughly:


Mobo ($70)

CPU ($60)

GPU ($170)

RAM ($70)

SSD ($60)

PSU ($30)

Case ($40)

So total is roughly $500 and with this build you have a great upgrade path, which you won't have at all with the one you proposed.

u/NeonJaguars · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

CPU

  • Ryzen 1400: link

    Mobo

  • Asrock AB350 Pro4: link

    Ram

  • Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4-3000: link

    SSD

  • Kingston A400 120Gb SSD: link

    HDD

  • WD Blue 1TB HDD: link

    GPU

  • Zotac GTX 1070 Mini (There are no Gtx 1070s or 1060s on Amazon in stock. I can personally attest to Newegg's quality as I bought all my PC parts from them. Fast shipping and arrived without any damage.): link

    PSU

  • Corsair 550w Semi-Modular PSU: link

    Total Cost: 945.90


    Build will run all modern games at 1080p or 1440p. I went with amazon for all parts except for the GPU because there are none in stock on Amazon. 8gb of ram is fine for gaming. 120gb SSD for OS/programs and 1TB HDD for mass storage. Semi modular power supply for easy cable management. Feel free to ask me any questions.


    Edit: Formatting.




u/edotman · 1 pointr/Amd

Thanks for the tips, I ended up getting these in the end: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015FY3BJ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apparently they've been specifically optimised for Ryzen but that could just be a load of marketing gibberish. I'm going to have to really do some research into these RAM timings and overclocking as it seems to have a pretty huge impact on Ryzen's performance (especially in games). How have you found the motherboard in general? Would you recommend it?

u/kshucker · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc
A VR build doesn't have to be stupid expensive anymore. Just keep in mind that no matter what you buy is going to replaced with bigger and better parts in a year or two. It's just how pc building works. Doesn't mean what you build will become shitty though. I'm a big fan of setting myself a budget and staying well below it. I prefer to keep my extra money in my pocket, but that's just me. I honestly think a 1080 or 1080TI is overkill unless you want to do some 4k gaming, but then that requires a 4k monitor. Not worth it if you're building a VR rig. Just my opinion.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-8700K 3.7GHz 6-Core Processor | $339.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $107.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - Z370 GAMING PLUS ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $109.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $164.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung - 860 Evo 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $129.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $42.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | MSI - GeForce GTX 1070 Ti 8GB Video Card | $499.99 @ Amazon
Case | Deepcool - DUKASE V2 ATX Mid Tower Case | $34.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA NEX 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Asus - VG278Q 27.0" 1920x1080 144Hz Monitor | $294.50 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1795.21
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-05-21 18:50 EDT-0400 |
u/The_Real_Abhorash · 1 pointr/computers

So here's what I would recommend ditch your motherboard and CPU buy a Ryzen 5 2600x. For the motherboard get a ASRock Atx Motherboard B450 Pro4 its out of stock on amazon at the moment but it will be in stock again on the 24th you could also order it from newegg. Your current CPU cooler should have come with a AMD AM4 mount but if you don't have it the CPU does come with a decent cooler and you won't really need to overclock it so it should work fine, You could also buy a mounting kit for AMD CPU's from Corsair. Next on the list would be a video card otherwise the new CPU would be bottle necked so I think you should get a ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 AMP Edition, New it costs $279.99 but you can buy a used one off amazon for $206.24 either way you should have some money left $606.59 if you go with new and $532.84 if you go with used. After that you'll want some new ram so I would recommend the Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB(2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 2666MHz, If you went with the new video card that will put you at $716.58 if you went with the used video card that will put you at $642.83. Just in case you don't know this your old ram won't work in a ddr4 slot so don't try and force it in. In any case if you went with the used video card or you don't mind spending a little over budget I would next get a ssd my recommendation would be the Intel SSD 760P Series 256GB M.2 80MM PCIe 3.0 X4 That with the used video card will bring the total up to $715.82 with the new video card it would be $789.57. Anyways I hope that helps a little bit.

u/testamentos · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hey! We have a similar build. Just bought all my parts and will be assembling this weekend. I'm getting the Rog Swift monitor too! I think everything looks ok but I'm surprised you're only getting 8 gigs of RAM. Might as well get 16 gigs for like $30 more.
I got these http://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Channel-3200MHz-Trident-F4-3200C16D-16GTZB/dp/B015FY3BJ2?ie=UTF8&keywords=Gskill%2016gb&qid=1465493828&ref_=sr_1_3&s=pc&sr=1-3 but I think you can find a cheaper 16gb set.

Edit: The reason I suggest 16gb (2x 8gb sticks) is if you only have 4 ram slots on your MOBO and need to upgrade RAM in the future you're gonna be stuck with 2 of those slots being taken up with 4gb sticks. Having 2x 8gb sticks will allow you to put 2 more 8gb in the future for a total of 32 which should last until you need to upgrade your MOBO.

Edit 2: You could also save some money by doing a 500gb SSD and an HDD (even 7200rpm). You'd get more space for your $. That's what I did but it's personal preference.

u/ghost_from_the_coast · 2 pointsr/macmini

I purchased 32GB (16x2) Crucial SODIMMS through Amazon Prime for $275. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071H38422/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Unfortunately, I may return them, and my soon-to-arrive-any-minute Mac Mini if I decide I don't want to swap out the memory myself. I'll just order another Mac Mini, but with 32GB of RAM instead of 8 this time.

As long as I'm posting, it would be great if someone else had a look at the RAM I ordered from Amazon to ensure I chose the right ones. Thx.

u/Prinapocalypse · 1 pointr/Corsair

Yeah as long as you get a higher end x470 motherboard you'll be good to go. I believe there's already bios updates to support the 3000s for some motherboards so do a bit of Googling to find one already confirmed to have support.

Also like one other comment said, go for 3200 ram especially on AMD since it makes a big fps difference in games. This is a good deal for example: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B07D1XCKWW/

u/Lewpepsi · 2 pointsr/buildapc
Thanks for the quick reply, I've just formatted the parts and searched them on Amazon for the parts, I feel like getting ripped off. Because I showed him the parts to buy for me then completely changed my build. This was my build when I showed him, I feel like my build is much better than what he offered me

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | £168.90 ($250) @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte H110M-S2H Motherboard (Socket 1151, H110 Express, DDR4, S-ATA 600, Micro ATX) | £51.59 @ Amazon
Memory | HyperX FURY 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) 2133 MHz DDR4 CL14 DIMM Memory Kit (Skylake Compatible) - Black | £32.89 @ Amazon
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £69.60 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £40.98 @ Amazon
Video Card | MSI Radeon R9 380 4GB Video Card | £184.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT H230 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | £54.90 @ Amazon
Power Supply | Corsair CX 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | £66.57 @ Amazon
|| Total
| (Prices include shipping and discounts when available.) || £670.42
u/AssBiscuits · 1 pointr/buildapc

I am about to purchase a Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Ultra MoBO for my new i7 9700k build. Will this SSD be compatible with it? Will this RAM be OK? I'm UK based, but if anyone can recommend better or just give me the thumbs up for this I'd really appreciate it. Feel a bit overwhelmed trying to build my first PC since 2012.

u/midadoneit · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks for the input! Already have the research going and I think I'm going to attempt this DIY build! My friend still has all the other parts in his laptop, he upgraded his motherboard to one with a GTX 1070 and gave me the old one with the GTX 1060.

I think I can build an adequate desktop for around $650 based on the following parts and prices I found:

Heat Sink/Fan Assembly: $50 https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=24584

Power Button Cricuit Board: $15 https://www.parts-people.com/index.php?action=item&id=25014#video

DC Power Jack Cable: $13 https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-DC-Power-Jack-In-Cable-for-Dell-Alienware-17-R2-R3-P43F-T8DK8-DC30100TO00/371650335971?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D41451%26meid%3D181e940c80a24d109a2918f307744ffb%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D282574581355&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Dual Wifi Antennas: $2 https://www.ebay.com/p/US-Universal-Internal-Antenna-for-Wireless-WiFi-Mini-PCI-Pci-e-Laptop-Computer/1348581337?iid=191583624395

180W Power Adapter: $70 https://www.amazon.com/BAY-Direct-74X5J-JVF3V-DA180PM111/dp/B0768F9T3J/ref=sr_1_30_sspa?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1510619852&sr=1-30-spons&keywords=alienware+15&psc=1

Corsair Vengeance 16 GB RAM: $180 https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0123ZC44Y?th=1

Samsung EVO 500 GB m.2 SATA SSD: $250 https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-960-EVO-Internal-MZ-V6E500BW/dp/B01M20VBU7

Intel 7265 WLAN Card: $25 https://www.amazon.ca/Intel-Network-7265-NGWG-W-WIRELESS-AC-Bluetooth/dp/B00RCZ4I6S/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_lp_tr_t_1/130-6825905-9627626?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=PMR6Q6H6XC654K801J6B

DIY Acrylic Casing: TBD

With a cheap custom acrylic casing for all these components, I think this may be an adequate and cost effective build!

u/RedStonedPanda · 2 pointsr/buildmeapc

Amd Ryzens are pretty nice at the moment and cheap. Ryzen 1600 is a good choice. I recommend a SSD disk and a second one HDD so you have a faster system and also an storage disk. Graphic card will be the hardest. Maybe a cheap 1050 2 gb will do.



Processor: Ryzen 1600 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XNRQHG4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520330748&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ryzen+5+1600&dpPl=1&dpID=319ktX3yGXL&ref=plSrch

Hard disk (hdd): barracuda works - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520330798&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=hdd&dpPl=1&dpID=5152Tk32IxL&ref=plSrch

Graphic card (gt 1050; 2 gb) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MEGB6LK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520330867&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=1050+2gb&dpPl=1&dpID=51KuYAEIFPL&ref=plSrch

Motherboard: B350 for ryzen - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WVFFXXL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520331052&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=b350&dpPl=1&dpID=51%2BX8pCoVML&ref=plSrch

Ram: corsair vengeance 8 gb - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01ARHBBPS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520331152&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ram+ddr4+8gb&dpPl=1&dpID=41fGQgRH9hL&ref=plSrch

Heatsink from artic - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IOLEJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1520331385&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=heatsink+for+ryzen&dpPl=1&dpID=51vHMnzWlEL&ref=plSrch

Power supply: standard - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014W3EMAO/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1520331603&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=power+supply+650w&dpPl=1&dpID=51jq9j94-TL&ref=plSrch

Case: also standard stuff - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RORBQNW/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1520331936&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=pc+case&dpPl=1&dpID=41Wq97Jk20L&ref=plSrch


The total is around 700. You may need to add some more things put this is enough for full functionallity. Also, I wouldnt buy the parts on amazon, but this way you can search them in a good electronics shop from your country which adds the assembly. Standards can be changed easily, that depends on what you preffer.

u/Drefsab · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Motherboard Gigabyte Z170 3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B013E37MD2/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Ram GSkill TridentZ 3200:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B015FY3BJ2/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Both sold by amazon UK, I have the ram myself but the model above on board (the Gaming 7) both work well and will easily fit your requirements :)

u/lingben · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

is it a good idea to buy from a "Just Launched" seller on amazon? they are called "Timeless Tenderness"

I'm looking at some kingston laptop RAM which they are selling for about $19.41 plus free shipping (from Australia) compared to $38.19 from the official Kingston amazon listing, also with free shipping.

The lowest price from Kingston was in April 2016 for $23.36 according to camelcamelcamel so the discount isn't that big compared to that price, which makes me think maybe it is legit?

screenshot

thanks

listing for:

Kingston Technology 4GB 1600MHz DDR3L PC3-12800 1.35V Non-ECC CL11 SODIMM Intel Laptop Memory KVR16LS11/4

u/TheOfficeJocky · 1 pointr/buildmeapc

Mini-ITX setups are king of this field! Unfortunately they tend to get kind of expensive, and Intel seems to be the only only one on the boat. If you are looking for a less expensive setup, the AMD APU line is stellar for entry-mid range gaming setups ref=sr_1_2on the cheap. Here is my suggestion:

AMD A10 6800K:
http://www.amazon.com/AMD-A10-Series-Desktops-A10-6800K-AD680KWOHLBOX/dp/B00CPLGGXM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416517343&sr=8-2&keywords=amd+apu+a10

8gb DDR3:
http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E93G6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416517439&sr=8-1&keywords=8gb+ddr3

Gigabyte FM2+ A88x Motherboard:
http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Dual-Link-Monitor-Motherboard-GA-F2A88X-D3H/dp/B00F8AFLG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416517490&sr=8-1&keywords=gigabyte+fm2%2B

Silverstone Tek Grandia Case
http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Aluminum-Computer-GD09B/dp/B00KHO0MRK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416517616&sr=8-1&keywords=htpc+atx+case

Corsair Builder Series CX 500 Watt
http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Builder-Series-Watt-CX500/dp/B0092ML0MY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416517704&sr=8-1&keywords=500watt+corsair

You can either go with a single 1TB HDD or a 120gb SSD and still remain in budget. I would suggest Samsung for the SSD and any old HDD will do, they are all about the same these days.

Additionally, if you wanted a boost in video game performance you Crossfire [Link the internal GPU with a Graphics card in this case] for a fairly significant performance boost. Below is a link to the card that delivers:

http://www.amazon.com/XFX-650MHz-PCI-Express-Graphics-HD667XCLF3/dp/B00AHV7NNE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416517809&sr=8-1&keywords=HD+6670


Excluding the graphics card, you are just below you $500 maximum. I would highly suggest the card if you intend on some light gaming.

Good Luck!

u/ResplendentRodent · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Thanks this helps. I get the mhz part, not so much the CL part, so this helped.

So I was looking at these :

https://www.amazon.ca/G-SKILL-F4-3200C16D-16GTZB-Trident-288-PinDDR4-3200MHz-Silver/dp/B015FY3BJ2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1YP2SMKOYCHO6&keywords=gskill+trident+z&qid=1550425759&s=gateway&sprefix=G+skill+&sr=8-1

3200mhz but CL is 16-18-18-38.....so...not sure if that's good?

Note the price, I'm in Canada. Everything more expensive here :)

u/dunnolawl · 1 pointr/buildapc

You are not getting good value for your money, like at all... GTX 960 and AMD 7970 are going for C$200 on ebay from reputable sellers including shipping, a dual core 6100 is not going to cut it current games (its really just a single core, since your OS will be eating 25% of a core for background tasks). You would be better off trying to get a used 2500k ( they are going for ~C$150 ) with a Z68 or an x7x series that supports overclocking with a K-series processor.

Buying used when you are on a budget is the way to go, since a lot of people upgrading to the latest and greatest are willing to part with their used hardware on the cheap. As an example, I will be selling my 2nd rig: 8350, Asus m5a99x evo r2.0 and 8GB of RAM for ~$195 (2/3rds of the store price) once the NVIDIA (1070+1080 ) and AMD (Polaris) paper launches are over.

If you want to learn how to buy used, I can recommend a few channels: Oafah, Tech YES City and Linus Tech Tips Scrapyard Wars series

u/BunkerStar · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Hey all,
Thanks for your replies and help!
I've now switched the PSU and the SSD based on recommendations here. Also got rid of everything else than the components on the list so that people can see the price of the computer itself without all the extras.

I'm now considering getting 16GB of RAM instead of just 8GB. I think I've whittled down my choices to these two:

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2666MHz

Corsair Vengeance LED 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4 2666MHz

Which one would you go for, or would you pick something else? Is it worth putting a little extra money to get more speed?

Thank you for your help!

u/jizztanbul · 1 pointr/applehelp

ok, awesome. I will definitely look into that one. thanks. and yeah, I planned on ordering this if I don't get steered in any other direction. any suggestions?

u/highhard_one · 1 pointr/qnap

The linked site is about 10% more expensive than Amazon UK for the same thing. Also that table of QNAP Nas's leaves out a lot of models and is totally user unfriendly since the tables don't list the models, don't buy from them, if you are smart and like the best deal here's what you should really do instead. TS-251 - £187.64 + Kingston 8gb installable RAM (that you install yourself, it's easy) - £26.30 + QNAP RM-IR002 - £8.99 (optional) is best in my opinion, £222.93 for a TS-251 with 8gb ram vs. £255.60 TS-251+ with 2gb ram

u/BigBenny60 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yeah I'm aware of 16 gb not being exactly necessary. My ram is the bottleneck of my build right now, I have four sticks, two 4 gbs and two 2 gbs, all of which I received from a friend when I first built my PC. I've since upgraded all my components except my ram, and currently I'm having some strange performance issues which I believe to be related to my ram being outdated, the sticks are incredibly old.

I wasn't aware of DDR4 being the new top choice, I'll have to look into those. Also, I primarily game, but I game hardcore on the most demanding settings, so 16 gb isn't necessarily needed, but I also do some creative projects that require a decent amount of rendering so I figured I'd just go all out.

Edit: Just found these, what do you think?

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-2133MHz-Non-ECC-Desktop-HX421C14FBK2/dp/B00TY6A1P0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478809065&sr=1-1&keywords=ddr4+ram

Do you have any recommendations for DDR4 sticks? I really appreciate the help.

u/msterB · 2 pointsr/buildapc
  • Your monitor is too good for the PC you are building. It won't make things worse, but it's just wasted potential. If you don't plan on upgrading by buying a dedicated GPU (GTX 1070 or something similar), there is no point in wasting that money.

  • If you want to use a APU (CPU + GPU combined), you need fast/good RAM. You also must use dual-channel (2 sticks). The best option per dollar is 2x4GB 3000Mhz DDR4 RAM. Link for example.

  • You can overclock the CPU portion or the GPU portion of your 2400g. I suggest the GPU portion since that is the 'bottleneck' of this build.

  • Conclusion - get different RAM for now and get a dedicated GPU later. In the meantime, your CPU speed will be good and you can play games at 60 fps or lower on medium to low settings. Once you get a new GPU it will be a good setup.
u/Mothimania · 1 pointr/buildapc

Like others have said, I would go for some faster RAM. This one is what I ended up getting for my build. I'm actually running the same MOBO and CPU as you, with an MSI 1050 TI. It's been working great for me. But again, as others have also said, it's not a huge deal and as long as your kid isn't planning on running super intensive stuff then 2400 should be more than fast enough. Nice build!

u/natethomas · 1 pointr/xbmc
  1. As others have said, a celeron NUC is more than powerful enough these days for high bitrate 1080p video playback. It will almost certainly not fair well with next gen software-decoded h.265 content. You need a beast for that stuff. Fortunately, hardly any of that exists.

  2. Since you are using Kodi on your Note 2, you don't need transcoding, so it doesn't really matter how strong the CPU of the server is. Your Note 2 is performing the video decoding.


    I've got the DN2820FYK running OpenELEC. I pretty much never need to restart it. Here's my setup:

    4GB DDR3L RAM

    Xbox 360 Remote

    Rosewill MCE Remote for after I got sick of the 360 remote not having a stop button.

    Getting an SSD is overkill, but I like it because it ensures the NUC is quiet and boots about as fast as possible. All of them are small enough. Here's one with decent reviews that's especially small.


    As far as noise goes, I've never personally heard the NUC. I live in an apartment though. It's possible if you put it in some kind of sound deadened room, you might hear it, if you've got really good ears.
u/BluePotato00 · 2 pointsr/simracing

Sim Racing Hardware:

u/puckbeaverton · 3 pointsr/AskMen

lol @ XBone. Sounds like the name of a villain in a 90s action movie.

Here's the deal. You can go the console route, and that's fine. But you're going to spend a lot more money in the long run.

You buy a PS4, an xbox one, a switch, whatever. Call it $400. OK. Cool. You buy games for it. $40, $30, $50. Sweet. Controllers. $50 $50 $50... Shit it's getting expensive. New games come out. Why the fuck are they $60 a piece? Holy shit. You wait a while. Jesus they only went down to $55? FFFFFFUUUUUU I wanna playyyyyyy.... Why aren't there more games and cheaper games? Granted, you do have the nice option to buy classic games on PSN and for Switch. Ugh.....fine, I'll shell out for Overwatch. Fine. I'll shell out for Destiny 2. Fuuuuck that was like $120. What....what the fuck is this? PS5? Nintendo Switch2?

ARE YOU FUCKING KIDDING ME?

BUT. Let me play out that scenario for you on a PC.

You get:

https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Desktop-Processor-Stealth-YD1200BBAEBOX/dp/B0741DN383/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1504013256&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=ryzen+3&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Motherboard-B350M-GAMING-PRO/dp/B06X3Y7KB5/ref=pd_bxgy_147_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06X3Y7KB5&pd_rd_r=WQY4T7FSD0XZNMJMAZTA&pd_rd_w=9hbxY&pd_rd_wg=5G67w&psc=1&refRID=WQY4T7FSD0XZNMJMAZTA

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2400MHz-Memory-Black/dp/B01ARHBBPS/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504015184&sr=1-3-fkmr2&keywords=corsair+vengeance+ddr4+8gb+1+stick

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-WHITE-Warranty-Supply-100-W1-0500-KR/dp/B00H33SFJU/ref=pd_sim_147_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00H33SFJU&pd_rd_r=34J30Q25N27HSGZ37PBB&pd_rd_w=zW44M&pd_rd_wg=1NEwM&psc=1&refRID=34J30Q25N27HSGZ37PBB

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Deskptop-1Terabyte-5400-7200RPM-Applications/dp/B06XR3LT6W/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504013651&sr=1-5&keywords=wd+blue+hard+drive

https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-MicroATX-Tower-Computer-RANGER-M/dp/B006BCK7RM/ref=sr_1_20?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1504013530&sr=1-20&keywords=computer+case

https://www.amazon.com/%D0%9Cicrosoft-Windows-Home-Disc-Package/dp/B0756F3VPT/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1504013612&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=windows+10+home+oem&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/ZOTAC-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Graphics-ZT-P10500A-10L/dp/B01M4MIU94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504014904&sr=8-1&keywords=gt+1050

Total cost: $570 US, or roughly what you'd spend on your console and a few controllers.

BUT, now you have the entire library of all the computer games ever made at your disposal. Not to mention that, but you've got emulators to play all those classics that you could have bought on the PSN/Switch.

And instead of paying $60 every time a new game comes out, you look at what came out about 6 months ago. You put it on your steam wishlist. You get an email someday soon that says "an item on your wishlist is on sale."

Oh holy shit. Doom is $16. Holy fuck, it's the steam summer sale. Games are 75% off, 80% off....they're basically giving them away.

Then you sign up for Humble Bundle.

Holy shit. You can get Alien Isolation for $5.

These are 5 star games we're talking here. Not to mention you get like 10 no names to go with it. Hell, you're probably going to spend hours playing some of those.

Pretty soon you've got 100+ games that you may have spent a few hundred dollars on. Things are great, but you decide hey, I would LIKE to have a little more FPS on these. So you order yourself a new GT 1080, and sell your 1050 on ebay making back about $50. Later on down the line you decide to upgrade the processory, maybe add a stick of ram later. Now you got a stew goin. But you don't have to, that rig will play almost anything (though possibly on lower visual settings)

PC is just more budget friendly in my opinion. You never have to just throw the whole thing away and get a new one. You can always replace components and upgrade things individually. There's never new platforms to learn, get used to. You can always use your same old controller, and you can always play your old games. In my view, buying consoles is basically throwing away money because you have to buy so much hardware EVERY TIME they decide to release a new console.

There's give and take to it. I just like the stability and deep discounts I get from Steam, GOG, and Humble Bundle. I wouldn't even game if it wasn't this cheap.

u/Harsh752 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Sorry I don't know much about PCs but you can keep your case, HDD, SSD.

You can get a Ryzen 5 1600 said to be $219.

An AM4 motherboard is around $100 : Link

Then you can get a Gigabyte RX480 G1 Gaming 8gb for $240 : link

You can get a 8gb DDR4 memory kit for $60 : [link
](https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2400MHz-PC4-19200-Memory/dp/B00UVN2C8O/ref=sr_1_8?
s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1491152168&sr=1-8&keywords=DDR4+Ram)

all this will cost you around $610-620. Sorry if this is a bit above your budget. Again, I don't know much about what is best so please forgive me if this is bad in overall value.

u/Xx_Buckfoi_xX · 1 pointr/buildapc

Great build overall, however the ram choice is a bit weird. A much safer bet would be to go for 8gb Corsair Vengeance 3000mhz and is cheaper overall

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0123ZBPDA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496218428&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=corsair+vengeance+lpx+8gb&dpPl=1&dpID=41so3MkMewL&ref=plSrch

SSD choice is interesting as well, it might be better for you to go for one 250gb ssd and a 1tb harddrive than one large expensive ssd.

u/icedearth15324 · 2 pointsr/mac

It won't be the fastest machine in the world, but upping the memory would make it somewhat usable. I've recently decommissioned some macs from 2008/2009 and they still worked pretty well, just not fast enough for everyday stuff.

If the imac was free, and you don't need to buy anything else to do what you want, then for $75 you can have a decently useable computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-4GBx2-DDR3L-SODIMM-Memory/dp/B008LTBJFM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497968823&sr=8-4&keywords=1066MHz+DDR3

u/PaDDzR · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

725 for the system parts is not bad. But 500gb SSD will run out super quick.

​

The case is preference ofc, but 91 quid when you're spending 725 on the system seems much. Power Supply you can get much cheaper if you don't go for modular: https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0600-K3/dp/B01127D0MY/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=power+supply&qid=1574334004&sr=8-6

​

Every pound counts. The more you saved on these conveniences, the more you can spend on GPU. Sure you'll have ever so slightly harder time cable managing it, maybe case won't be full of RGB, but how often will you stare at it? 3600mhz ram might be overkill, 3000mhz for 50ish saves more. The benefit of high frequency ram on ryzen 3 might not be worth all that extra money. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B2Y1N8B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

​

Some extra savings could be have with different mobo. Pump the savings into extra SSD and better GPU and you've got a killer system.

u/lived_live · 2 pointsr/Amd
I went with the G3 board (got it for 145) with the 1600. OCed to 4ghz pretty easy at 1.3875 volts but when I can run 3.6ghz at 1.24 volts I just do that.

As for the ram in the end I got 2400 ram just cause the 20$ price difference. The small advantage for the more costly ram just isn't worth it. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017NW5NZY/?tag=pcp0f-20


Here is my full build if you are interested.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor | $278.25 @ shopRBC
Thermal Compound | Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste | $6.73 @ DirectCanada
Motherboard | Gigabyte - GA-AB350-GAMING 3 ATX AM4 Motherboard | $153.75 @ Vuugo
Memory | Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $133.89 @ Amazon Canada
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $199.98 @ DirectCanada
Video Card | Gigabyte - Radeon RX 580 8GB Gaming 8G Video Card | $309.99 @ NCIX
Case | Corsair - SPEC-02 ATX Mid Tower Case | $64.99 @ Amazon Canada
Power Supply | EVGA - BQ 600W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $79.99 @ Amazon Canada
Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Red) 69.7 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.19 @ DirectCanada
Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Red) 69.7 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.19 @ DirectCanada
Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Red) 69.7 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.19 @ DirectCanada
Case Fan | Cooler Master - SickleFlow (Red) 69.7 CFM 120mm Fan | $7.19 @ DirectCanada
Monitor | LG - 25UM58-P 25.0" 2560x1080 75Hz Monitor | $221.99 @ PC Canada
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1478.32
u/DatKillerDude · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm going to be putting together my first pc at the end of this year. A friend of mine who knows of the subject has recomended me a setup according to what I told him I'd like to have. Here's what I'm going to be getting Processor (he told it'd be fine with this even if without buying a gpu) , Motherboard , RAM cards , Power supply

When I asked him what should I get, I told him I'd like to be able to play gta 5 and pubg, while not spending way too much. He came up with this, how is it?

Btw I'd like to learn about it so can anyone link some videos on how to how and what is what? I've merely a general idea if not less of what I'm getting into so it'd be fine to learn a bit.

u/georgieboy71 · 1 pointr/buildapc

No, get this it may seem way too expensive but trust me, you will thank me later, I’m talking incredible gain compared to what you listed

u/Jean-Valjean · 2 pointsr/buildapc

You do not need a fulltower case IMO, it is way overkill and takes up too much space.

Something midtower like this:

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/8850694858626857081?lsf=seller:6136318,store:18011995565160192565&prds=oid:7992287768184037503&q=nzxt+s340&hl=en&ei=UMBCWZ_5IYfMjwOk36qoCg&lsft=gclid:CNqP59mswNQCFRKUfgodp9kJ1w

Would take $90 off.

Don't listen to the person saying i5 over i7. I5 is dead so if you can't afford the I7 then go for a ryzen build instead but I would personally stay with the 7700k.

For the GPU look at eBay at buying one second hand. With EVGA the warranty is transferable so buying second hand is very very safe (since it is still within the three year warranty).

You can see the GTX 1080 FTW (and also even the freaking FTW hybrid edition which is a beast). Has sold on ebay (by looking at recently completed listings) in the last three weeks for ~460. Doing that can give you the same (or better if he gets a hybrid) card with the same warranty and EVGA protection for 80$ (plus tax if amazon taxes you) less.

Doing those two things puts you down to $1260.

You can buy the CPU brand new here for $310 to bring it down to $1240

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Intel-i7-7700K-Kaby-Lake-Quad-Core-4-2GHz-Processor-BX80677I77700K-/272635222784?hash=item3f7a535b00:g:dsYAAOSw53NY9WmO

For the cooler, a single radiator AIO is not worth it for a CPU. So you need to either go cheaper for an aircooler (which would be comparable but wouldn't be good for overclocking) with the cryorig H7 for 35$ (bringing your total down to 1210) or go more expensive with the Noctua NHD-15 or corsair H100i for 80 (brining your total up to 1275).

Personally, I would upgrade the ram to something 3200mhz - you don't want to be locked down by slow ram with that killer CPU/GPU. For $20 more you can get this (also matches the case!):

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B01EI5ZRQY/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1497547277&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=ddr4+dram+3200mhz

I would also trade the 3TB drive for a 120GB SSD for 50:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PNY-CS1311-120GB-Internal-SATA-Solid-State-Drive-/322271147966?hash=item4b08db77be:g:JbIAAOSwmfhX5aT1

With a 1TB HDD for 45:

https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM010/dp/B01LNJBA2I

About the same price but much higher performance.

Doing this all would put you between 1250-1300 and would be much higher performing in my opinion.

This would murder anything @ 1080P 60FPS (probably even 1080P 144FPS) and be future proof for a while.

u/ChickenFriedFresh · 1 pointr/pcgamingtechsupport

Well I didn't end up buying it, what I did buy (which I'm sure you've already heard of) was the Dell Inspiron i7559, I can tell you the pros and cons of each.

Dell: Double the VRAM, IPS display, almost $100 cheaper, better webcam, very easy to add a 2.5in SSD

ASUS: Lighter, thinner, better looking IMO, double the SSD, DDR4 RAM, i7

The ASUS' RAM is DDR4 2133MHz SDRAM Onboard Memory, and can go up to 16GB

Upgrade the ASUS RAM
Upgrade the Dell RAM

u/Visualize_ · 1 pointr/buildapc

Unfortunately RAM has spiked in price and it doesn't look like it will go back down. Optimally you want 16gb of RAM but you can just buy 8gb now and then add a second stick later (just make sure the sticks of RAM are compatible).

Make sure to buy 1 stick of 8 instead of 2 sticks of 4. You want something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UVN2C8O/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1511817083&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ddr4+ram+8gb&dpPl=1&dpID=41hrqLZU4XL&ref=plSrch

You might be abke to find something in the mid 80s but make sure the clock speed is above 2400

u/PCMRBot · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

If you ask a question, and someone answers it correctly, reply with a thank you, but include this checkmark: ✓ ( or if you cannot enter Unicode, use !check instead )

This will score the user whose comment you replied to a 'point'. Currently the points will unlock special flair that will show in all Daily Simple Questions threads.

This should be working, hopefully

In case you missed it, click here for yesterday's Daily Simple Questions thread.
There may be some questions still unanswered! Below are a selection of questions with no replies. See if you can help them out.

If you don't want to see this comment click the little [-] to the left of my username to collapse this comment.

----

> Does Gears of War Ultimate Edition still have performance problems?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/82xqee/daily_simple_questions_thread_mar_08_2018/dvdjaji/

----

> So my Asrock z270 mobo just lit up and started smoking today. Got it February 13th, 2018. I was changing the light on the board through their program for it. Any ideas? I’m going to get another one but not Asrock again. Any suggestions? My specs are GTX 1070 FE, i7 6700, 16 gb ram, 256 gb ssd m.2, Corsair 650 watt psu, nzxt s340

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/82xqee/daily_simple_questions_thread_mar_08_2018/dveymyo/

----

> Just bought a 212 LED Turbo to go with my Hero VIII motherboard and i7 but I can't work out how to set up this backplate, no matter what I try it doesn't seem to fix to the board it's like a few mm off and the instructions are vague as hell and the youtube tutorials all skip it. Any tips?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/82xqee/daily_simple_questions_thread_mar_08_2018/dvf6xmo/

----

> I'm new in this sub, so sorry if I do something wrong.
> I need help to buy a new monitor for my set up: I would like one with 24 or 27 inches, for play videogames (PC and PS4), work and watch netflix.
> thank u mates

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/82xqee/daily_simple_questions_thread_mar_08_2018/dvfccx2/

----

> My current setup includes a Ryzen 3 1200 OCed to 3,8 stable and a Palit GTX 970 4GB. Recently started streaming on Twitch (PUBG). Need to use Nvidia SW to stream (no overlays, alerts) cause CPU is to weak for both OBS and the game. With the nvec encrypt the stream is stuttering. Is an update to a Ryzen 5 1600 enough or do I need a new GPU as well? Is a 1060 6GB a recommended update to a 970 4GB, especially when looking at the current prices?
> Or would you recommend a capture card?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/82xqee/daily_simple_questions_thread_mar_08_2018/dvfhv51/

----

> Maybe the answer is not simple but the question is: how do I automatically skip this screen? It is currently takes up most of the time of my boot process.
>
> PC specs:
>
> MSI B150M Gaming Pro Micro ATX
>
Crucial 8GB DDR4 2133 MT/s (PC4-17000) SR x8 DIMM 288-Pin - CT8G4DFS8213
> i7 6700
>
MSI GTX 1060 6GB
> * hard drives are listed in the image (Adata 250 GB for OS, Crucial MX300 525 GB for games, WD blue 1 TB for storage)


/r/pcmasterrace/comments/82xqee/daily_simple_questions_thread_mar_08_2018/dvfilf2/

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u/Algaroth · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Ok. So it can hold two 8 gb ram sticks. That's the maximum. It can handle speeds up to 1600 though. You can get an identical ram stick and put that in but I would honestly recommend buying faster RAM. 1333 or 1600. I recommend two of these.

u/Toasst · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I'm going to go ahead and guess that processor in the Toshiba is an i5 4210 which is a 4th generation processor. The Asus has a 5th generation i5. Since we're talking graphics, this will be directly related to the processor. The Asus has a better processor and accordingly, better graphics. As far as the RAM, if you wanted, you could upgrade the RAM yourself for a comparable price to the $30 difference: http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1600MHz-PC3-12800-KVR16LS11/dp/B00CQ35HBQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450997051

I wouldn't put any value in 500gb vs 1tb hard drive space but that's my personal preference.

Overall, I see Asus as a far superior brand over Toshiba and think that, along with the better processor makes up for the discrepancy in RAM.

u/BandidTwitch · 4 pointsr/buildapc

You could also go with a ryzen 2700x based system like u/rtkierke said and that would give you 2 more cores and 4 more threads, just make sure to get fast ram with ryzen to have the best possible experience. Something like this corsair kit or if you wanna keep with RGB you could get this kit

u/itsnotabouttherug · 1 pointr/buildapc

i am able to change settings in bios and computer does not crash but nothing actually changes.

the corsair sticks that i purchased are not on the asrock qvl list for the ab350m pro 4 so i just ordered new sticks off amazon - patriot 3000 (2x4gb) - which are on the qvl list

i dropped down to 8gb but i don't think it will be a problem...and i'm really happy that it will save me ~$100.

i should get the memory today, so i'll report back with the speeds.

u/AlwaysAboveAll · 1 pointr/buildapc

EVGA 500W Non Modular PSU $36

Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1070 G1 $409.99

MSI Z170A-Pro $107

Vengeance LPX 8GB DDR4 DRAM 2400MHz $45

i5 6600K $235.99

TP-Link AC600 Wireless High Gain Dual Band USB Adapter $24.99

Thats a total of: $859. That still leaves you with some room for your case and a hard drive or a solid state drive. If you have Prime, you'll get everything in two days for free (Student Prime, Trial). Dont forget the CPU FAN! Coolmaster has the 212 for $27 or so!

EDIT: I had posted it as a comment to your post again instead of as a comment to you reply, but I fixed it hopefully before people saw it!

u/ParkerPWNT · 6 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I am currently running the ASUS PRIME B350-PLUS on the newest BIOS revision.

I paid 604.48 Canadian Dollars including taxes and shipping for an R7 1700 and this motherboard.


I was able to hit 3.8 Ghz very easily and I am still tweaking the overclocking but, I think I will be able to reach 3.95 Ghz stable at 1.35 Volts.


For RAM I am running two of the following kits at 2133 Mhz:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MMLUYQK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Overall I am very pleased with the board though the UEFI user interface could use some big improvements.


Let me know if you have any specific questions.

u/kekmayd · 4 pointsr/Competitiveoverwatch

It's not true (at least not as it concerns Overwatch). You want fast RAM (which is measured in nanoseconds by the RAM's "true latency"). To calculate the true latency of your RAM, you do 2000 / (clock speed of your RAM) CAS Latency of your RAM. For example, I have this Corsair 3000 mhz DDR4 ram with 15 CAS latency so I would do 2000 / 3000 15 = 10 nanoseconds. You want your RAM's true latency to be 10 ns (nanoseconds) or less for Overwatch. This video does a really good job of explaining how clock speed and CAS latency work together and I need to give credit to /u/pyr0pr0 and his comment tree in this thread here for introducing me to these concepts

u/Young_Amini_Man · 1 pointr/buildapc

Is there any issue with getting one stick of DRAM and one of SDRAM? I have this in my rig, and I’m looking to add another stick, and was looking at this. Will there be any issues?

Both are DDR4 2400 and 288pin, both 1.2V, but difference latency, 15 v 16. Is the latency difference an issue? Is there any other issue with this?

Edit: since I’m 97% sure the different latency is an issue, can anyone explain why this stick is cheaper than most? Most ram I’m seeing is around $65 for 8gb with these specs, but this one is $50 and it doesn’t look like it’s ok sale or anything. Is there any reason I should avoid it or is it just a good deal?

u/Shabbypenguin · 1 pointr/xboxone

Why not the 6100/63xx?

ddr4 is comparable in price http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-2133MHz-Non-ECC-Desktop-HX421C14FBK2/dp/B00TY6A1P0/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1464485911&sr=1-2&keywords=ddr4

a nice bump and allows for easier upgrading should the person want to. a 6100 is $116ish and 6320 is $150ish with the unofficial overclock it gets a nice boost in power too.

u/xFireDan5 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Thank you, well spotted as I didn't see it had a cooler. Thanks. Yes done the ram to this https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07B2Y1N8B/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&psc=1 and I think 400w will be ok. Update - https://www.amazon.co.uk/EVGA-WHITE-Power-Supply-100-W1-0500-K3/dp/B01E4YRP8W# 500w PSU for same price as the 400w.

u/ArosHD · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | £167.89 @ Amazon UK
Motherboard | Asus H110M-A Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | £51.36 @ Amazon UK
Memory | Patriot Viper 4 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | £38.11 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | £70.54 @ Amazon UK
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £39.73 @ Amazon UK
Case | NZXT Phantom 240 ATX Mid Tower Case | £59.99 @ Amazon UK
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA G2 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | £70.97 @ Amazon UK
Other| RX 480| £140.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | £638.59
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-21 23:27 BST+0100 |

How is this build? Any faster RAM for a similar price? I'm probably going to get this instead but is there anything else worth changing? Any particular important features the motherboard will be missing or is it fine? Thank you.
u/MothrFKNGarBear · 2 pointsr/Alienware

If you don’t know the difference you don’t need 32gbs of ram.


I’d like the above user said, get an ssd and ram upgrade as that’s pretty cheap and helps a lot! Especially the ssd.


Samsung 970 EVO SSD 1TB - M.2 NVMe Interface Internal Solid State Drive with V-NAND Technology (MZ-V7E1T0BW) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BN217QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_i7K3Db5TA5R0K

Your gonna have to reinstall windows.


Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 DRAM 2666MHz (PC4 21300) C16 Desktop Memory Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2A2666C16) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0123ZC44Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iaL3Db9MWZM5Z




The ssd will make a HUGE difference as well as the ram should help out but for sure get that SSD upgrade. And don’t get 32gbs of ram. That’s to much.

u/Khamael_X · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed... oddly enough, the German Page does not provide that PDF.
Anyway, went for this one: Corsair Vengeance LPX CMK16GX4M2A2666C16 2x8GB Kit @2666MHz
Was the best budget version I found that supports the full 2666

Took the extra Bucks to go for 16 instead of 8 GB, I think it's worth it

u/leaffblower · 1 pointr/buildapc

I'm getting the PC today so I'm pretty excited and I want to make sure I have everything figured out. The financial situation has changed a bit, so I don't really have a huge restraint, but I'm still trying to make it affordable, so I'm keeping most of the stuff I have. I am absolutely fine with my laptop being wiped. That's cool because I'm giving it to my Dad. The laptop came with Windows 8, and now has the most recent version of Windows 10, but I can buy a new copy if I need to. The external drive I have has ALL of the information I need, and I can't really transfer that because I don't have any other drive big enough. So would there be a way I could install my new computer onto it, and keep all of the info? Or do I have to buy another one. Just a reminder, It's an SSD. This: https://www.amazon.ca/Kingston-2133MHz-Non-ECC-Desktop-HX421C14FBK2/dp/B00TY6A1P0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511628593&sr=8-3&keywords=DDR4 is the RAM I decided upon.

u/cadamis · 1 pointr/Dell

I got an Amazon refurb for $700, and got this RAM stick, which has been working great:

http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Technology-1600MHz-PC3-12800-KVR16LS11/dp/B00CQ35HBQ

Had the laptop for a couple months and it's been stellar so far. I'd definitely recommend it to anyone.

u/kurmudgeon · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

Regarding the undervolt settings I'm using, they are pretty much standard for this model of laptop. There's been lots of other users that have tested this thoroughly and these are the most stable settings that pretty much work for everyone with the i7 8750 version of the Zephyrus M.

There's not much to worry about with undervolting. The worst that will happen is it will just cause a blue screen and force a reboot; it will not hurt any hardware. After the blue screen, you just adjust your settings and re-test by forcing a workload or benchmark to see if it blue screens again. If it doesn't, then you're good to go.

Here are my settings:

u/edit1754 · 1 pointr/Lenovo

I would avoid that particular model/config due to its low-resolution and poor quality display (1366x768 which won't let you fit much onscreen; grayish blacks and poor vertical viewing angles). Getting a decent display will likely affect how nice your computer is to use, more than the differences between most other specs, and at this budget it's really easy to avoid poor displays.

For a direct alternative, I would do this:

u/butcherofblavakien · 2 pointsr/india

The ThreadRipper 999$

1080ti 775$(might go down)

Motherboard 389$

Ram 160$

SSD 100$

HDD 70$

Case 57$

PSU 100$

Monitor 85x2$ = 170$

Total should be around 2660$ so in rupees it Should be 167000 or 1 bitcoin

You have to save your lifetime earnings to buy that, better start saving from today, cheers

u/47Argentum · 1 pointr/buildapc

Wow, that's definitely well-hidden!

I like the Gigabyte board from the list, thanks for the suggestions. Do you think the RAM I picked up is going to work in this build? I'm having a little trouble figuring out if it's compatible with these boards, and I'm eyeing Corsair Vengance LPX as another option.

u/TakeHerToFrance · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have 4x4gb sticks of this RAM - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0157UPYZ8/?tag=pcpapi-20, and a Ryzen 5 1600 CPU.

My question - Is it crucial that I upgrade to cl14 3200 ram, such as the G.SKILL TridentZ? I've been told, and read multiple times that cl14 ram is the best ram for ryzen cpu's. I've also been told that 2x8 is better for ryzen than 4x4. I am running this ram at 2933 stable.

u/SaneBRZ · 1 pointr/SuggestALaptop

> I'm currently looking at these laptops, are they any good?

Nor really ... if you just want to spend around 300 bucks on a laptop, then take a look at this Asus F555LA-AB31, You would get at least a laptop with a 1920x1080p display. Though I would recommend to upgrade it with another RAM module.

Personally I would try to get something lighter. Hauling around a laptop with a weight of over 5 lbs (with the power supply) every day back and forth between school and home isn't fun. The HP Pavilion x360 13-s199nr would be a decent compromise, but you will have to spend all of your budget for it:

  • 13.3 inch, 1920x1080p IPS touchscreen
  • Intel i5-6200U + 6 GB of RAM
  • 500 GB HDD
  • Intel HD 520 graphics
  • Price: $499

    It has a decent display (IPS panel with decent colour reproduction), weighs under 4 lbs, battery life is acceptable and compared to these laptops above, it would be also more powerful. It will run the games you listed on higher settings and will render videos a bit faster.
u/radclial · 12 pointsr/buildapcsales

Other than telling me I don’t need 32gb of ram if I buy the 3200mhz version of this and pair it with the 3200MHz version I already own is it worth it? Or am I better off getting a perfectly matched set?

u/Boys4Jesus · 2 pointsr/buildapc

3200@CAS14 you trying to make it cost more now lmao.

The difference between 2133 CAS 15 and 3000 CAS 16 is 10% increase. And about $5-10.

The difference between 3000 CAS 16 and 3200 CAS 14 is around 2.5%. And about $40.

Thats why most Ryzen builds have 3000 CAS 16 or even 15 as it really isnt much more.

2400 CAS 16

3000 CAS 15

Its $13 here, however that is because the 2400mhz RAM is on special with $10 off. Normally the difference is $3. And its a 10% performance difference.

u/skaymonkey · 3 pointsr/buildapc

I wouldn't get a cpu cooler, the stock one is fine. I would also get slightly faster ram.

Edit: Thanks for the silver OP, glad I could help you out

u/KETOS1S · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-2133MHz-Non-ECC-Desktop-HX421C14FBK2/dp/B00TY6A1P0/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1459377329&sr=1-5&refinements=p_n_feature_five_browse-bin%3A677427011%2Cp_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A10656894011

This should work fine for you, and it's hard to beat that price point. Also, i just upgraded to a 970 from a 280 and I'm pretty happy. The Division runs like dogshit tho. Terrible optimization

u/fathobo · 1 pointr/dayz

I built you computer that I think will last you quite sometime. It's a bit over your budget but if you can get some more money it will be worth it in the long run.

CPU

http://www.amazon.com/AMD-FD8350FRHKBOX-FX-8350-FX-Series-Edition/dp/B009O7YUF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414454119&sr=8-1&keywords=AMD+FX

Power supply (don't know what your wattage is, but this is a safe choice)

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Modular-Bronze-ATX12V-EPS12V/dp/B00ALK3KEM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1414454475&sr=1-1&keywords=power+supply

Memory

http://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-FURY-2x4GB-1600MHz/dp/B00J8E93G6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1414454280&sr=1-1&keywords=ram

Motherboard

http://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Chipset-2000MHz-Motherboards-GA-970A-D3P/dp/B00DJ3DWFK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414454661&sr=8-2&keywords=gigabyte+motherboard

Total: $430 - A lot of these products are on sale right now so it could be more or less come buying the parts.

Like I said this is a build on the higher price point but it will work well for you for another 7-10 years.

u/lump532 · 2 pointsr/apple

SSD - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KFAGCUM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

RAM - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LTBJFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Directions - https://www.ifixit.com/Device/Mac_Laptop

You'll need to search for your model. Swapping the parts is really easy. If you don't already have one, make a Time Machine backup. Then, after swapping the parts, just pop in your OSX disk and restore from the backup.

Edit: I did a clean OSX install and then just restored the stuff I wanted, but if you're not sure what to do them just do a full restoration. It's easier.

Edit 2: There is a lengthy thread about this in the sub somewhere if you want to search for it.

Edit 3: Here it is. https://www.reddit.com/r/apple/comments/2tytpb/with_a_new_ssd_and_8_gb_of_ram_my_4_year_old/

u/SerialATA_Killer · 1 pointr/pcgaming

If you want the full pc gaming experience, I would highly recommend actually building your own pc. It's tons of fun, relatively easy to do, and you learn so much by doing so. If I was you, however, I would probably go ahead and refund what you've got. It just wasn't made for gaming, no matter how much the salesman told you it was. You can build some bang on machines for $700, implying that you have all the peripherals (monitor, headset, etc).

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6531504&CatId=1509&SRCCODE=LINKSHARE&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&utm_source=Linkshare&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=efAhvP8Sq*o&AffiliateID=efAhvP8Sq.o-PF.4GlLPjduk_qj2fSYmAw

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007MJGMXQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007MJGMXQ&linkCode=as2&tag=vidgamwri-20

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-PC3-12800-1600mHz-CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B/dp/B004QBUL1C/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381800933&sr=1-2&keywords=8gb+ram

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3858040&CatId=7248&SRCCODE=LINKSHARE&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&utm_source=Linkshare&utm_medium=Affiliate&utm_campaign=efAhvP8Sq*o&AffiliateID=efAhvP8Sq.o-Hs61u1s7RGYJnizEE0NiIw

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UBNL0A/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B005UBNL0A&linkCode=as2&tag=vidgamwri-20

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-power-supply-rs550pcare3us

~$100 for OEM operating system.

I tried to estimate the math in my head as I was pasting them, it'll put you right between $7-800

u/Fantasy-Faction · 1 pointr/buildapc

Thanks, everyone. Really helpful. Before I hit 'buy'


Do you think it would be worth the extra £20 for this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015FY3BJ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Thinking in the future if I upgrade (at least a year off), or should I just get the Crucial and rely on the fact that in a year or so the RAM prices are likely to be back to what they were before the price hikes ;)

u/TheScorpy · 1 pointr/buildapc

I found these (Amazon.de) and they seem to be the best value. I would like to know your opinion.