Reddit mentions: The best computer networking hubs

I'm an MSc Biology student doing pharmaceutical bioprospecting (lots of chemistry, toxicology, pharmacology, molecular bio, and microbio). I have an SP3 and I LOVE it. It is hands down my favourite piece of tech that I have ever bought. It makes my life as a grad student 100x easier. Also, mine is an SP3 i7, 8gb RAM, 256 gb SSD HD (with a 128gb SD card to expand my memory).

First off, I put an STM DUX Rugged Fit SP3 case on my SP3. It makes me much more comfortable about carrying it with me all the time. It doesn't affect the fuctionality of the kickstand, keyboard, cameras, or buttons, and has cooling vents. Hands down best one I found.

I also bought a miniDisplayPort to DVI/HDMI/VGA adapter so I can plug my SP3 into any projector or screen. Very handy.
I also bought an Anker 3-Port USB Hub w/ Gigabit Ethernet Port so that I can use Ethernet cables if need-be, and also gives me 3 USB ports to use instead of one.

Now for software! As expected, I also run the typical Microsoft Office Suite (Office 365 University).


I use Microsoft OneNote for most of my dry lab notes and for roughing out protocols/experimental designs. Its amazing for having a lot of different data together in one place. I can intermix pictures/figures of my results (such as TLC plates, mass spec readings from LC-MS, cell viability assays from TC culture, flow cytometry graphs from expression analysis, etc etc) with hand-written or typed notes. It's great for planning out experiments and designing protocols too, as I can just screen grab and insert diagrams of 96 well plates, assay layouts, etc. It makes things much faster than writing it all out. I then just print out my protocols and keep them in a binder in the wet lab. I then reference those protocols in my wet lab hand-written book. I bring my SP3 into the wet lab on occasion, but not too often as I have to decontaminate it and I'm not a fan of getting it covered in ethanol.

The screen grab feature (double clicking the top of the pen, then selecting the area you want to "grab") is incredibly handy for quickly grabbing and inserting a figure or something from a publication into your notes. It's very well implemented.

For PDF reading, annotation, and analysis I use Drawboard PDF. You have to pay for it ($12 CAD I think it was?) but it's unbelievable. The user interface is amazing with the pen and touch input. I used to print out papers to read them but now I just read, highlight, and annotate them in Drawboard. Awesome program. You can also create PDF's in it which is nice. All in all it's a very full-featured program and worth the money.

I also run GraphPad Prism 6 with no issues whatsoever. The SP3 can handle it without breaking a sweat.

I run R Statistical Analysis and R Studio for my stats, again handles it no problem.

I also run WinMDI and FlowingSoftware (flow cytometry data analysis) and it runs those without even having the fan come on.

I have Zotero and EndNote X7, both of them run great and work very very well with all of the microsoft suite of programs.

Edit: I've also used BioEdit and MEGA6 for a bit of sequence editing, aligning, and BLASTing. Nothing too intense though. The only drawback is that doing sequence work on a small screen can get tedious. A nice 20"+ monitor is way easier.

I use it for teaching a lot too, as I can walk students through problems in either OneNote or Plumbago, then save my rough work and email it to them, post it to D2L, etc etc.

For a more performance-oriented comparison, I'll point out that I also heavily run Adobe Photoshop CS6, Adobe Lightroom 5, and Sony Vegas Pro 13 for my photography and video hobbies. It can run these programs flawlessly too. My other computer is a Dell Precision w/ Intel i7 vPro and my SP3 does very well in comparison to that beast. Obviously if you're doing something very intense for 4 hours the fan will be on and it'll get warm, but it has handled everything I've thrown at it so far.

Also, the battery life is pretty good. I can't complain. In an average day of in-lab work, attending seminars, and teaching with it, I can get 6-7 hours of battery life out of it. If I'm not multi-tasking as much I can get more than that, and if I'm working it really hard with high brightness I get 5ish hours. All in all pretty impressive for such a powerful little device though. It also charges pretty fast.

Edit: spelling.

Evecase 5.6 x 5.6 x 3.5 inch Camera Bag.
Chose this after trying too long to find a 3DS bag that didn't have horrible straps. $16 with Prime

Anker USB 3.0 4* USB tap.
Obviously, you need to have more than 1 USB port to do much, like using a mouse with a usb drive.
$9 with Prime.

Cable Matters Mini HDMI male to HDMI Female cable 2 pack.
Minor shaving required. Not tested extensively.
$10 with Prime.

Lexar USB 3.0 Micro SD Card Reader
If you want to use a ferry card or temporarily pop your card of choice into a computer, one of these is incredibly helpful. Plus it's tiny. You can probably get one cheaper if you don't want the 32GB card included.
$33 with Prime.

Standard XBOne Controller.
Works without any need to mess with dongles on Windows 10. It'll even work with headphones/sets.
$35-$50ish, depending on color and luck.

Venom Xbox One Rechargeable Battery Twin Pack.
I don't recommend these in particular, but a rechargeable pack is a must if you don't want to guzzle batteries.
$17 with Prime.

Logitech Wireless Mouse M185.
Pretty reliable, but only has the standard 2 mouse buttons plus tilting and clicking mousewheel. Receiver stores inside nicely.
$13 with Prime.

Kid Icarus Folding 3DS Stand That I Had In A Box.
Needs a little rubber bumper to help secure the Win properly.
$10 with Prime.

Perrix Asymetrical Folding Keyboard.
This one might be tough to find, but it works amazingly. The weird fold system pushes the main hinge off to the side, so it is less likely to fold the moment you put it on your lap. It also completely hides the hinge when the keyboard is unfolded. A bit cramped, but the keys are properly clicky laptop keys.
For image and model reference

Anker PowerCore 26800 Portable Charger*
While looking for my power pack, I found this one. Seems to be a flat upgrade. 26800mAh with 3 4.8A output USB ports. Also has 2 micro usb inputs for double the charge speed?
$59.99 with Prime.

Other possible pack-ins.

Bluetooth Numpads.
If you're primarily going to be gaming, you might want to drop the full keyboard in favor of a bit of space plus one of these. Works nicely with a mouse if you rebind with HIDMacros. Also more tiny airport/college desk friendly. Example unit is $30

Similarly, you might want to try a half controller + mouse option using a device like the Nintendo Joy-Con's left unit. Drivers are still being worked on though, so only get this if you're up for beta troubles.
$50ish, but you can get lucky on eBay.

SanDisk Ultra Fit 128GB USB 3.0 flash drive.
The one in all the Win lists I've seen, but I figured I'd list it here for convenience.
$45 with Prime.

Batteries
All this stuff takes a total of 3 AAA (2 for the keyboard, 1 for the numpad) and 1 AA battery that will need replacing eventually. I hesitate to recommend rechargeable ones, as I have yet to find a micro charger for them.

Inateck USB 3.0 Ethernet + 3 USB 3.0 port adapter.
You might want to replace the 4 port one with one like this if you plan to do network maintenance, secure data transfer, or just plain download things quickly.

$20 with Prime.

PS4 Controller.
Some people prefer this to the XBOne one. It's lighter in the hand (and bag), comes with a built in rechargeable battery with absurd life, and has a touchpad with 4 physical buttons underneath. Can do some pretty crazy things with the touchpad via Steam's controller customization, but has weaker compatibility with non-Steam applications. Also works with PS4 Remote Play.
Worth noting that, unlike the ps3 controller, this can charge directly from any micro usb power supply. Headset support seems to require the official receiver dongle, sold separately.
Controller Alone: $40-60 Depending on color. Silver's cheapest.
Adapter Alone: $66
Controller + Adapter Bundle: $66

Budget 1 Handed Controller**
Hey, if you want to try 1/2 Controller + Mouse, why start off pricey?
$10

Phew, that's about all I have on hand.

I can tell you it works great as a desktop replacement because that's EXACTLY what I did!

I run mine with two external monitors using this DP hub:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HK8V5KE/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...and I also have this USB hub:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IJU0K2Q/ref=oh_details_o02_s01_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

...which has a built-in gigE port. I also picked up a 64Gb uSD card for a little expanded storage:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007WTAJTO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

On top of that, I picked up a 1Tb external USB3 HD from Best Buy for around $50, though I'm not actually using it now.

I of course have a proper keyboard and mouse attached. The only thing missing from the equation is the docking station, but that's pre-ordered.

Yes, the whole setup was pricey (around $1700 all-in for the 256Gb i5 model, plus $200 for the dock later) but it's allowed me to replace my desktop AND laptop that I sometimes used with one very portable and capable package. I'm VERY happy.

I use it primarily for various forms of software development, which tends to be more demanding than typical use... I can tell you it has performed flawlessly in this role for me the past few weeks. Everything I've thrown at it so far has worked as expected and with excellent performance. I've done some video editing on it too and that's been fine as well.

It's also not bad for the somewhat limited gaming I do. I still play the original Halo and Postal 2, but nothing more demanding. I've run all the 3DMark demos on it too and it perform well up until about two versions ago, so my take is if you're looking for games no newer than about 2-3 years ago you're going to be fine, anything newer might not work out as well (at best you'll likely have to crank settings down). If you want better gaming I'd suggest the i7 is what you want... better GPU in addition to the CPU bump. I originally planned to get that but I got impatient :) The i5 has been fine for me though.

I'm slightly older if that really matters. Here's my advice.

One thing you can do right now without buying anything is to remove the stickers off of your laptop. Seriously, it makes a difference.

For all my recommendations I'm going to list price first as I imagine budget being a concern.

$5 - Do you only use the external drive when at your desk? If so, mounting it to the corner of the desk, the wall, (or if you ever pick up an external monitor, the back of that) might look cleaner.
I use this stuff to stick things - https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-051141397252-Extremely-Mounting-414P-ST/dp/B018GKCI82/ You can find it at stores like Target.

With all the cables coming out of your laptop, I think a USB hub would really help your setup as all of the cables would go directly into one place. If your laptop has a USB-C port and supports charging over it, you can get a USB-C hub so you can connect peripherals and charging over one cable.

$15 - If you don't have USB-C, something like this looks good - https://www.amazon.com/Anker-4-Port-Macbook-Surface-Notebook/dp/B00XMD7KPU/

It has four USB 3.0 ports and is very clean and small. However, the cable is a bit short.

Around $79 - If you do have USB-C, I have this hub and it's pretty good, however the cable is short and can feel a bit loose at times.

$25 - A basic colored mousepad might look cleaner if you want to go for that look. I have this mousepad and recommend it, but it's all personal preference.

$35 - I think you should pick up a headphone stand so the grease and oils don't get on your laptop screen, I recommend this one - https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Headphone-Stand-Holder/dp/B019PI9QFC/

It gives you three extra USB 3.0 ports, a headphone jack and comes in four different colors, and has a solid aluminum build. If you don't need those extras, this stand is still aluminum and comes in at $12 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZFX6ND/

Probably around $100-$150 - The biggest upgrade you can make here I think is an external monitor and keyboard. It would improve your setup's ergonomics significantly. This desk looks pretty small, so I would recommend something no bigger than 24 inches in screen size. The resolution of the screen and such would depend on what you want and your laptop's power. However, I highly recommend at least 1920x1080 resolution.

$25 - If you ever do decide to upgrade to an external monitor, you probably wouldn't be able to use two screens on your desk, and the closed laptop would take up way too much space. I would recommend this laptop stand - https://www.amazon.com/Vertical-Adjustable-OMOTON-Aluminum-Chromebook/dp/B0769G51R7/

I have it myself and it's very well built, adjustable, and makes things a lot cleaner if you use an external monitor. It has branding on one side but if you flip it you can just use the side with no branding so it looks super clean. You can make it very stable on the desk with some simple double-sided tape.

That's all I have for now. Enjoy your setup!

Don't mean to be rude but gotta check: Make sure you're plugging it into the correct Ethernet port on your Google Wifi, you can only use one of them for internet IN. Also, can you try a different ethernet cable?

Not a Cox customer but just throwing out idea, if they have any type of like landing page that pops up with terms to accept or anything similar, you'll need to plug in a computer to your puck's ethernet and accept those before setting up the modem.

You might look into buying a cheap USB to Ethernet dongle or dock, just to have around for situations like this or for when travelling.

That said, I'm pretty sure Cox is just a standard cable provider right? Like Xfinity?

If they don't have the said splash page you have to agree to before use, then maybe you aren't supposed to be using the puck's default DHCP setting? Or something similar?

Again, picking up one of these will help you narrow down the issue because you can try just seeing if your Surface can get internet directly from the modem (make sure to always unplug the modem from power before switching devices) and you can also see if there is a ToS you have to agree to or something.

• An adapter from Anker, a recommended brand
  
• The step up version, just better aesthetics for your Surface
  
• The cheapest option
  
• One that does more than just Ethernet if you want more bang for your buck. Maybe you want more USB ports on your Surface sometimes?
  
  Anyways, report back with:
  
  

1. Does connecting your Surface directly to your modem work?
   
2. Does connecting your Surface through the Wifi puck work before you set up the Wi-Fi?

Note all keyboard mouse combos use Esc for back. Need to use enter to select at main menu but sub menus the mouse select works

Mele f10
have to flip over for Esc/back button. Works good pretty accurate. Cue and rewind work in circle select area. Have to flip over and hit space bar to play/pause
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0092KDSQW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764634&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Logitech K400. keyboard/touch pad my favorite but big. Home button works as home. Play/pause, cue and rewind keys work
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005DKZTMG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407764657&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

T2 Air Mouse - DO NOT BUY, performs terribly.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DIXSPA8/ref=mp_s_a_1_18?qid=1407765051&sr=8-18&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Sabrent USB hub, works perfectly but bright LEDs
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BWF5U0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1407766089&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Logitech N5902, exceedingly akward IMHO. Worked great with HTPC but not good with FireTV. BTW do not buy at amazon if you think you may want one it is too expensive. If more than $30 you are paying too much. Once again not good for FireTV but good for HTPC.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005OTXLLC?pc_redir=1407493041&robot_redir=1

I use one from a company called Adam Elements with 2 USB A ports, an SD card reader, an ethernet port, an HDMI port, and a USB C port for charging. It comes with an aluminum chassis that matches the colors of the Macbooks available. These types of dongles are actually available from many brands, this one is just the one that I happened to come across at a store. They are most likely all the same. Here's the Amazon page for the one I use. They can get pretty expensive but it's better than having to use multiple dongles like other users do. Here's one from Juiced Systems that Linus from LinusTechTips has personally recommended in their videos and used daily with his Razer Blade Stealth.

​

To my knowledge, there shouldn't be any difference between the ones that take up one port and ones that take up 2 ports (not in any significant ways, at least). IIRC, the 2 port thing is just a trend that Hyperdrive ended up creating because the form factor of their dongle is flush against the side of the Macbook. You could argue that 2 USB ports are a more stable support than just one but then again, a wired connection has more flex than a dongle that connects directly. BTW, if you use a case with your Macbook, you won't be able to use these without making "modifications" to your case.

​

Either ways, a lot of higher-end dongles come with USB C ports that replace the ones they take up in case you ran out of ports to charge your device. I highly recommend looking into those if the number of ports on your device is an issue. Try looking at the other products recommended at the Amazon links I linked above as well. I still recommend the one I use purely due the wire being braided, otherwise, they are all the mostly same. You really can't go wrong with any of them.

List:

• ZTE F609 - GPON ONT from ISP, bridge mode and connected to pfsense.
  
  
• Mikrotik CSS326-24G-2S+RM - Super budget 24 ports switch with basic features and 2 SFP+ ports for only $139 brand new, you just can't beat that price.
  
  
• Ubiquiti Unifi AP AC Lite - To handle wireless devices in my house, to be honest I was very disappointed with the temp, it runs very hot and it's the reason why I didn't mount it on the ceiling. If I knew all Unifi AP runs this hot, I would've go with other brand. Many people have told me that it's fine, but mine reaches 70 degrees on idle (I live in place where it can reach almost 40 degrees) and if I mount it on the ceiling without proper ventilation, it probably can go up to 80-85 degrees and I've seen couple post on Ubqt forum that their AP melted due to the temperature.
  
  
• Plugable 7 port USB hub - I have an unused spare. It's kinda expensive if you compare it to other cheap chinese crap but it doesn't backfeed power and super reliable, the other one is currently used to power my Pi2 24/7 for almost 2 years without single issue.
  
  
• Deepcool cooler - Super old notebook cooler I found on my garage, currently use this to blow the hot air from Unifi AP until I finish my mod to mount 120mm fan on the ceiling so I can put my AP.
  
  
• PC - Spec is G4400, Asrock H110M-HDV, PNY SSD CS1311 80GB, 2 WD hard drive 2TB, 8GB RAM, and 2x single NIC Intel PT Pro. This thing run Windows 10 and pfsense under Hyper-V (not a good idea I know). Also act as my media and storage server. I'm very surprised that this thing pulls less than 20w on idle!
  
  
• Others - Old monitor I found in my garage, probably from Intel dual core era, some cheap landline phone, a bluetooth keyboard, and bluetooth mouse.
  
  All these only pull about 40w, my next upgrade is probably to invest in a decent rack so I can have a better cable management.

> How does the camera work on the front?

Works perfect for me! Works 100% when plugged directly into my PC, and when plugged into a 50 ft USB Extender it still works fine but I have to set it at 45hz for some reason or it isn't picked up :o. 30hz does not work and 60hz does not work over my extender, but 45hz works great.

>What good uses does it have?

It makes it extremely easy to tell where you are without taking the headset off. While playing you can enable an "outline" view when chaperone comes up so you immediately know where you are, and what is around you.

> What do you commonly use it for?

Not smashing into shit! It's perfect for any game that asks you to move around a lot, or if you need to grab a drink or something real quick mid-game, and don't want to screw with the headset.

Edit: I forgot my #1 use! Not kicking my cats!

My cats fucking love to sit at my feet while I play Vive, and I check the camera every now and then to make sure no one is on the floor before I start a match of some actiony game :P

In hardware form, you can have a look at these options, but they are expensive.

• Sophos XG85 - $250 + whatever the web filtering license is, I couldn't find the pricing.
  
  
• pfSense SG-2220 - $279. Great software, you can get a ton of modules to do whatever you want. It might not be the most easy thing to configure, but there are lots of tutorials on the net.
  
  
• Meraki MX64 - $595 for the device, $600/yr for the advanced license to get the filtering. Extremely powerful, quite easy to setup, but it's the most expensive. I put it here more as a comparison.
  
  If you have an old PC, you can load up pfSense on it for free. Get a $15 network card so you have two interface and voila. It will do the exact same thing as the SG-2220 for a fraction of the cost.
  
  Hope this helps.

I've been using mine with a 100' extender for a while now. There's a few threads that describe how others have gotten theirs working (I'm too lazy to find them and link them to you right now though). Here is what ended up working for me:

I'm using this extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019MADOS8 for HDMI and it works ok. I paired it with the 100' CableMatters Cat6a cable (which I wouldn't recommend, but I cant find the beefy, quality cable in less than a 500' spool!) I ordered two cables and one was defective. It's also a thin for cat6a. Maybe we could get some people together and split up a spool of the good stuff.

I have to power cycle the repeater when I turn on the vive or else it freaks out and displays a broken signal, but it is holding up ok and I think it would work better if I cut off the extra cable length I didn't need and re-terminate the cable so it's shorter (I only needed about a 70ft run).

For the USB, I installed this extender: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372 but ended up sending it back. It worked, but it couldn't provide enough bandwidth to run the Vive camera along with everything else. Instead, I am just using a passive repeater cable: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081LNQR4 which works perfectly fine. I have the 65ft repeater cable plugged into a 16ft non-repeater extension to get some extra length and this works flawlessly, I can even use the camera.

My lighthouses are about 8ft up and 22ft apart (using the link cable) and it all works very well. It did take some trial and error. Here's my advice:

• Try using your repeater with a shorter cat6 or cat6a cable (<10') - if it works, go and find the best quality cat6a cable you can find and cut it to the shortest length that will work and go from there. It might work, or you might need to find a better repeater. Mine worked fine for video signals even when it didn't for the vive so that's not a great test other than to prove that the repeater is functioning at all.
  
• I just re-read your post and see that you are using cat5e - try cat6a if you can, it provides superior range than cat5e. Also, test the cat5e cable you have with a computer (or purpose-built cable tester/certifier if you have access to one) to make sure it works at all. For what it's worth, I'm 90% certain my run wouldn't work with cat5e, it just barely makes it with the cat6a.
  
• I'd also recommend testing each (USB extender and HDMI extender) separately so one doesn't create problems for the other.

I have the Asus C300, the 4gb ram model.

I absolutely love it! It's my first chomebook so I can't really compare it to others. But in my 3 months of usage I'm really impressed.

Battery life is fantastic. I do notice a slight drop off when I have bluetooth on (I have a bluetooth mouse I use sometimes as well as bluetooth headphones) but I average about 10-12 hrs of use in a single charge.

Speakers are decent, they get loud, but the tone is a little lacking. If I want something with more bass I connect it to my stereo or headphones.

It's super fast, I often run with about 7 or 8 tabs open as well as various apps and a few extensions and I never notice any lag anywhere.

The 1 usb isn't really a problem, I bought this usb ethernet hub mostly for when my daughter/wife are streaming shows to our amazon fire stick or facetiming family and the wifi would slow down. But it's nice since I can charge my mouse/phone/whatever all at the same time.

I think it has a decent finish and feel to it. It doesn't feel cheap and the keyboard feels solid to me.

I use it for pretty much everything I do, general web surfing to website development. I have to pull out my old windows laptop sometimes for a program one company I work for uses and it's always a disappointment to have to put the chromebook away for that.

All in all I think it's great. When my wife's pc laptop finally craps out I'll be buying one of these for her.

My EDC for the Switch is as follows:

• Switch console with JoyCons attached
  
  
• Hori Tough Pouch holding the Switch, two straps and five carts (plus one in the console).
  
  
• Hori Play Stand
  
  
• Second set of JoyCons in a grip.
  
  
• Second pair of straps
  
  
• Pro Controller
  
  
• Two Google Pixel USB C-C chargers (my phone is also USB C)
  
  
• One Nintendo A-C cable (comes with the Pro Controller)
  
  
• u-Jays on-ear headphones
  
  
• a-Jays Five in-ear headphones (had these first)
  
  
• Butterfox Carry All case
  
  --
  
  As covered above I start by packing the Switch, with JoyCons on into the Hori Tough Pouch which was my original carry case. The Tough Pouch also has a spot for five carts and two straps matching the JoyCons attached to the Switch. The Butterfox Carry All gets quite tightly packed so the added protection is nice and doesn't add much to the thickness.
  
  I then put the Hori Play Stand into the back pocket of the Carry All. As the back pocket is very strechy this adds a little extra protection on that side.
  
  On the inside of the case the A-C cable goes into the inside back pocket. Next up moving from back to front are the u-Jays which fold flat in their dust cover bag. The is followed by the Tough Pouch. All that is behind the wide movable divider from the Carry All. On the front side of the divider the space is split in half by the short divider from the Carry All. Looking towards the front of the bag the JoyCon grip goes on the left, Pro Controller on the right, both with buttons facing forward and shoulder buttons to the outside.
  
  Inside the flap of the Carry All are two zipper pockets. In the smaller pocket goes one of the Pixel chargers and the two remaining straps. In the larger pocket the a-Jays Five in their protective case (looks like a small hockey puck) and the second Pixel Charger.
  
  The left and right inside walls of the Carry All have three game cart slots each however I find the version I got makes them, in my view, unusable. Of the three the front and back both come very close to overlapping with the zipper while the middle has reasonable clearance however lacks the depth to really hold a cart as securely as the Tough Pouch. If you wanted you could use them but I haven't needed to yet.
  
  Honourable mention to my ORLZY tempered glass screen protector which is permanently on my Switch and doesn't really warrant its own packing requirements.
  
  That said I have to wonder if the Anker USB C to 3-port USB HUB with Ethernet would work with the Switch. Yes, Ethernet in tabletop mode. The USB hub could also allow wired controllers like the Pro via cable or Pokken controller.
  
  I also have a couple different designs of the PowerA game cases pre-ordered as my upcoming game pre-orders will mean I need more travel/storage space for carts. Not sure where exactly it will fit into the Carry All yet.
  
  In the medium term I also plan to get a battery bank such as RAVPower 26800 PD but haven't settled on a specific one just yet although that one currently tops my watch list.

I've got two sites that do this on old Netgate APU4s.

For modern hardware, you'd want the SG-2440. It's got 4 ports so you can easily hang 3 ISPs off it if you want. From there setting up load balance and failover is pretty easy (there are guides for this).

Now as far as budget- the SG-2440 is $550, which is less than you'd pay for a 'big name' router (Cisco etc) with similar features.

However if budget is a primary concern, you could go with other hardware.

Amazon has this noname NUC-based China box for $270. It seems to have good reviews, but keep in mind you're on your own with that- have to install pfSense yourself and no official support if you have a problem.

Alternatively, you could always just grab a spare old PC, blow all the dust out / make sure there's no bad caps, run memtest86+ for a while to make sure it's stable, and then call it a router. I recommend replacing HDD with a cheap small SSD. A quad port Ethernet card will finish that build and make it a useful router. Again, installation is all you and there's no support like there is with official hardware.

Hope that helps!

I use a Surface Pro original for programming with Visual Studio 2013 Pro and it's great. It can drive up to 3 external displays with the correct setup. The 128 GB version is fine, I have Office 2013 and VS2013 installed plus a heap of developer utils (git, tortoisegit, beyond compare, etc...).

You can easily get one external monitor with the built-in displaylink and this mini-displaylink to HDMI/DVI/VGA adapter. I also recommend this little USB 3.0 hub + ethernet adapter. Both of those products together with the Surface Pro make for a nice portable workstation (sans external display).

To run 2 external displays, you need to get this Plugable UD-3900 which adds 4 USB 3.0 ports, ethernet, HDMI and DVI. I have one - it works great for office stuff (haven't tried any video games with it except SNES emulators which work great too.)

Girlsplaywow is a jerk! An incredibly generous jerk! This headset coupled with a USB hub would be awesome! I play a lot of games with my friends and I never get to talk with them on vent or skype because my headset broke, and then my USB ports wouldn't work. ;w; And maybe then I can actually skype with people from RAoA! Anyway, thank you for the contest and good luck on your 10k!

And if I win, you can gift the rest to someone else! ^w^ MEOW!

OKAY! So, I think this is pretty much everything that makes my setup what it is. If you see anything I’ve missed and are curious about, or want more details as to how everything came together, lemme know!

• Ergodox EZ Original Standalone, Black w/ MX Cherry Blues (No keycaps) - $235 (Doubt anyone needs that link, but y’know.)
  
  
• Ergodox PBT Cherry Profile Keycaps - $23.50
  
  
• 104-set PBT Cherry Profile Keycaps - $39.99
  
  
• Velocifire Blue Switch Wireless Numpad - $15.99 (Currently Unavailable Through Amazon)
  
  
• Logitech Trackman Marble - $23.99
  
  
• Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub - $5.99
  (Didn’t trust USB 3.0 with my wireless accessories, and I love the individual button on control on this guy. Plus, you can’t beat that price!)
  
  
• ARKON Heavy-Duty Clamp Mounts - $26.95/ea
  
  Materials and Tools Used, Step By Step:
  
  Base pieces:
  3/4” pine (ply for base, solid for wrist rests)
  Table saw for cutting large pieces
  Jig saw for details and wrist rests
  
  Molding wrist rests/rounding edges:
  Belt sander (Turned upside down, ‘cause I’m not super strong lol)
  
  Wrist Rest Adhesion:
  Wood clamps
  Wood glue
  
  Attaching Hardware:
  Drill with 3/16 and 5/16” bits for cam lock screws
  1/4” Drill bit for threaded inserts
  1/4” Threaded Inserts
  5/8” Forstner bit for cam locks - $8.97
  1/4” Dowel Centers for lining everything up - $5.83/4-pack
  12mm Cam locks/screws
  
  Finishing product:
  Detail sander, 150-grit
  Hand Sanding, 220-grit
  3x Minwax Deep Mahogany Stain
  2x Minwax Fast Drying Gloss Polyurethane
  
  Logitech Trackman Marble Adaption:
  Blade for scoring trackball and cutting cover
  Hacksaw the tail off
  Sand down with 220-grit
  Cardboard (from inside of a binder cover) to create cover piece
  Oil Rubbed Bronze Metallic Spray paint to sorta match
  
  The other two things you’ll see in the pics are more specific to my transcription job, but in case there’s any interest:
  
  
• Senal SMH-1000 Headphones - $74.99
  
  
• Infinity IN-USB2 Footpedal (Purchased for $28 through eBay, $49 through Amazon)

Awesome, thank you for the information! I've just ordered the same USB splitter from Amazon UK: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Plugable-2-Port-Compact-Splitter-Windows/dp/B005HKIDF2/

I really appreciate your help, I'm getting married next week so hopefully it will arrive in time for my best man and I to have some multiplayer shenanigans the night before the big day! Any suggestions for good multiplayer games besides Crash Team Racing and Smackdown 2? :)

1. Best USB Hub

Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub

2. Best Mouse

Logitech MX Anywhere 2 Wireless Mobile Mouse

3. Best MicroSD

SanDisk Ultra 128GB microSDXC UHS-I Card

4. Best Value Sleeve

AmazonBasics 11.6-Inch Laptop Sleeve

For that kind of distance, you'll likely need to transfer over Cat6- for both HDMI and USB. In order to do so, you'll need something like this for HDMI: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=21609 and something like this for USB: https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372/

Note- Your existing Cat5 might work for the USB connection, but for HDMI you'll definitely need Cat6.

Also, at 50' you can get away with a good active HDMI cable from the likes of Monoprice. That is my current setup- 50' Active HDMI, and 50' Cat6 USB (using the USB adapter linked above). I will likely be moving to the Cat6 HDMI adapter, as I do have conduit from my office room to where we do VR, thus I can run everything through the walls.

Yes, it will use a computer power cord, but I actually ordered a bunch and was going to include one for each of you. I really should have asked if people want to use their own power and HDMI cables... Although, you're in New Zealand so I probably shouldn't send you a US power cable. So yes, that'd be great if you had your own, lol!

As for 240 mains power, I have absolutely no idea. This is the USB hub that powers the Pi, and it's the only thing that will need to be connected to power. If the adapter that comes with this thing won't work for you, I can probably find a compatible adapter that will work on 240 mains power. But I'll need some help figuring that out.

Edit: Europe != New Zealand.

Edit again: forgot the amazon link for the USB hub.

Wanted to check back in and report how this setup works.

So I went with the route of HDMI for now, using this cable and this USB extender over cat5e.

Everything works wonderfully, haven't tried camera yet, but latency is unnoticeable for first tests, and I am incredibly happy.

I'll be ordering some bulk cat6 to try HDMI extender boxes with, and I'll report my findings later on.

I appreciate the help, again, this might work well.

I haven’t tested the Ethernet speed, but I just got this USB hub with Ethernet for my Surface Pro 3 and I really like it: USB hub with Ethernet I got it for a travel adapter to expand USB and use wired network at the office, it’s a great size for travel and the fully detachable USB connection cable is an extra bonus.

> First off, I have a new macbook pro which completely did away with the standard usb ports so Im forced to buy an adapter for my RODE NT which is the USB-C to USB

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Aluminum-Ethernet-Adapter-ChromeBook/dp/B00XU6PM68

>I've been changing up my sound to a more emo-ish rap sound kinda like Peep, Tracy, etc..and produced a solid beat and its hard for those to give out help when they cant physically see my work but what do you guys normally do when you produce?

network online. try /r/makinghiphop

>I also thirdly am curious for vocals i have a hard time with it especially getting a flow, I overthink I feel like, but aside from that when I start mixing my vocals i feel like I have a really high pitched voice and I already do irl, but it feels raw and I want to make it deeper and thicker.

you could try a tuning plugin, you could lower the formant (it'll be a setting in the plugin called Formant probably) or just pitch it down directly. if you want it to be thicker, record it twice, as similarly as you can, and have them both play at the same time. (or use VocAlign to make them super tight but I assume you don't have Vocalign with a USB mic)

> i find the best solution to my computing setup is just using laptops

I do use a laptop, but I still need to use a lot of stuff attached on a daily basis: UPS, printer, scanner, headset, webcam, mouse, keyboard, external drive, card reader, cable for my phone, FitBit dongle. (I have this model of USB hub, but it sounds like you don't need it! :) )

> What do you use your dashcam for; sorry if it seams obvious.

A friend had a car accident and it got me thinking about how it's their word against yours unless you have witnesses or the evidence is clear. They're also growing in popularity as a result of videos like this... so I picked up a cheap low-definition one to give it a try. If you want to find out more, you might find this guide informative.

Simple solution to this problem.

I have a Sony Wireless speaker system that has a transmitter that connects up to the PC thru USB. When I switched to Windows 10, I was bummed to find out that Sony's latest driver for the AirPC10T is Windows7. Although it works on Windows 10, just like the old joystick drivers, my PC won't sleep. THE SIMPLE SOLUTION I WENT WITH: I bought a Sabrent 4-Port Hub that has push buttons to turn on/off any individual port. For $7, it is hard to beat this solution: I now simply toggle off my USB transmitter port when I go to put the PC to sleep. Sure, I'd rather have Sony write a new driver, but their customer support made it clear they aren't going to do that. Here is the hub with toggles that I bought last month, and has been working great so far. http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M

***DISREGARD, apparently the hdmi extension will not work with index.***

I've posted this before but this is what I used to extend ~40 ft, the USB to 50' wont be a problem, the hdmi "should" be ok as well but it could come down to cable quality etc:

The key is you need to extend BEFORE the link box, the linkbox cable to headset needs to be the normal one. I used an active HDMI cable to go 40feet from my PC, then a USB extender (uses a cat6 cable) to extend the USB. IT worked fine, i had zero issues. I actually ran another 40foot active HDMI to mirror to the TV in that room and had no issues with either.

​

HDMI cable:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0186DNF4K/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

usb extender:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

You'll need to supply the cat6 cable for the usb side.

Step 1
Buy some USB 3 to Gigabit adaptors that have a USB 3 hub built in. That way you have gigabit ethernet AND still have USB ports. example

Step 2
Buy a single copy of Acronis True Image (2017/2018)
If you have some time, watch Newegg for rebate deals that make it nearly free- either way, it'll be WELL worth the full retail price if you need it right away.

Step 3- install it on any PC. Create bootable "rescue media". (a tiny USB is good enough- 1GB even is plenty) Using it, you can boot and image these machines from a USB drive or a network location.

Step 4- Build [One] "master image" machine. Make it exactly how you want it. Applications, etc- and FULLY update it- then Sysprep it. There are tons of guides on Sysprep all over the web. It's a built-in Windows utility that "generalize"-es the install for use on other machines.

Step 5- Boot this machine from USB (using the usb 3 hub/ethernet) and "image" the entire drive somewhere.

Now "restore" that image to any/all of the PCs in question. Once booted after imaging, you'll get the "OOBE" (out-of-box-experience) where you can name the PC, choose settings, etc- and all of the apps already installed. Activate and ship.

DONE!

Oh Hi Mark...I think fun activities depends on where you live and who you are. Personally, I think the midnight picnics where you make up a whole picnic and go someplace unusual can be fun. It's warm here, so that's possible.

Get in the car and wander out of town? Use google maps to find really weird stuff. One time Carlsbad, CA, we typed in "Best Waffles near me" and ended up in this little dive that REALLY had the best waffles in Carlsbad!

Hubs are Useful!

I have a similar dongle by Anker, and it works for what you describe. I tried with a DualShock 4 and works fine, just make sure to connect the dongle to power before connecting it to the phone. Also, make sure to power the dongle with a USB-PD charger. When I connected a USB-A charger to the dongle via a A-to-C cable, the phone didn't get almost any current, it said "slowly charging" but with my USB-PD meter inline it said about 0.08A was going in, which is practically nothing. The phone wasn't losing battery powering the dongle and DualShock, but it was losing battery just as if there was nothing connected.

This is a lot better dongle, btw, and cheaper with the current $5 coupon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HMLTCPL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has an extra USB-C port (works with USB-C headphones), and 100W charging capability, among other extra features.

Any USB-A port, or USB-A to USB-C cable will only charge up to 1.5A. Most USB-A computer ports though only support USB 2.0 or USB 3.0 power (500mA or 900mA). For a computer USB-A port to support 1.5A, they usually have a label indicating they are also "charging" ports, or you would just have to test yourself. If you're interested in testing your charging in different scenarios, I recommend buying one of those hardware USB-PD meters. I have the Satechi one but you may find others with more features or cheaper. Apps like Ampere are not accurate, they can only approximate, and especially with USB-PD they are worse because of the different voltages.

I got the NZXT Source 210 elite case and got this of it. Also this is a close up of the panel.The buttons are simple switches that you can get from amazon or ebay. They wire as usual and have the LED's that show you the status.

Here is a good alternative that I found when i ran into the same problem
You could either have the hole thing, as in cut out a bay in the front of the desk and stick it in there, or take out the PCB and make individual cutouts like I did. You would need a cnc router though to make it clean.

Google cnc services in your area and I am sure you can find a place that can do that for you for a relatively cheap amount. I think I paid around $30 to have mine milled.

Hope this helps and Good Luck!

I picked up this Anker 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub w/Gigabit Ethernet for my Chromebook. I use my Chromebook for IT classes, and it's great to run Gigabit Ethernet over USB 3.0 for remote connections, and super nice to have some extra ports. I've been impressed with the build quality, and have since purchased other Anker products. Really good prices and build quality.

Edit: as /u/snarfattack and /u/svenvv noted the one that I linked below (with a Celeron J1900) doesn't support AES-NI and will not be compatible with PFSense 2.5.

Looks good but at when you're looking for one of the refurbs and you're looking to put another LAN card in it you might consider just going with a fanless box like this one. This is what I use and I love it.

With that said your plan for the refurb should work fine; I used to run mine off similar boxes quite comfortably.

From my experience messing with a dozen different routers I'd suggest anyone that wants an all in one package that does almost anything a person interested in home networking would want to do to get a firewall micro appliance/ or this barebones version if you have spare ram and msata drive around, or can get your own cheap) or going even cheaper and using any old pc laying around (after buying an extra NIC card for it) and putting Sophos XG/UTM9 home edition or Pfsense on it. Both are free. Both are equally amazing in securing a network and doing many other things. differences between the two, though pfsense has improved since this post so maybe take that into consideration. Lots of support online on how to set either of these up. /r/pfsense, youtube has lots of videos for both.

I guess that depends on what it is he wants to power. If his retail business is selling weed and he needs to keep those 6-8 burner phones charging (kidding! :p) then it wouldn't take much demand at all and the PSU here will be fine - it's a no-name budget one, but the power demand is extremely low (129W on a 480W PSU) so it's not going to cause issues, but if it is more demanding items he might be best to use something like an EVGA 500W/600W for $20 more - https://pcpartpicker.com/product/V9bp99/evga-power-supply-100b10600kr

The motherboard has six USB inputs and typically cases have two on the front - one would be used by the wifi adapter and likely two more by the keyboard and mouse leaving five. The easiest way to add more might just be to get a USB splitter which use one but give four, so bring him back up to 8 inputs available, good ones can be had for less than $10 - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1501748521&sr=1-1&keywords=usb+splitter . You can get motherboards with more inputs but typically they tend to cost a good deal more than that.

As ePaperWeight mentioned, your shopping list would have a lot to do with what you plan on doing with it.

Keep in mind that the Pi Zero is very cheap partly because it does not have nearly as many ports as a full size Pi. It also has a less capable CPU than a full Pi 3. That being said, it's still impressive that its CPU and RAM are in line with older Pis that were used in all sorts of projects.

The lack of ports means that if you want to connect to USB, HDMI, Ethernet, or Wifi you will need adapters.

For the bare minimum for getting started I would suggest the items included in this kit (not necessarily suggesting the kit itself, these are all standard parts):
https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Zero-Starter-Kit/dp/B01N3XNPAM/ref=sr_1_1

• MicroSD Card (needed to install Raspbian or another OS)
  
• Power Supply (any 5v supply with micro USB aka phone charger)
  
• OTG (On The Go) cable for connecting a full size USB device
  
• Mini HDMI to standard HDMI adapter
  
  This will allow you to get a Zero to boot up and display on a monitor. The single USB port will limit what you can connect, but a wireless keyboard / mouse dongle will at least give you standard input devices.
  
  In order to connect Wifi or Ethernet in addition to a keyboard you will need a USB hub; preferably a powered hub.
  
  To connect a Pi Camera you'll not only need the camera module, but an adapter ribbon cable (the Zero's port is slightly smaller).
  
  The GPIO header does not include pins. This is more configurable, but means that you'll need to solder your own.
  
  As you can see, all this can quickly add up. The Pi Zero really highlights the value of a full Pi. So if you're considering the Zero in order to save money run the numbers. You might not be saving much.
  
  The size and lower power requirements of the Zero make it great for embedded projects. Anything that runs on a battery or needs to fit in a small case would benefit from using a Zero. Even then, the faster speed of a Pi 3 means that it will be a smoother experience to program on the 3 even if you plan to migrate the software to the Zero.
  
  Other links for reference:
  
  
• Pi Camera Module - https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-Camera-Module-Megapixel/dp/B01ER2SKFS/ref=sr_1_1
  
• Pi Zero Camera adapter cable - https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-v1-3-Camera-Cable-Raspberry/dp/B01LGUJTDG/ref=sr_1_4
  
• GPIO Header Pins - https://www.amazon.com/15Pcs-2-54-Single-11MM-Header/dp/B00FR19WQA/ref=sr_1_2
  
• Ethernet Adapter - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Ethernet-Network-Adapter/dp/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=sr_1_4
  
• USB Hub - https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=sr_1_14
  
• Wifi Dongle - https://www.amazon.com/Edimax-EW-7811Un-150Mbps-Raspberry-Supports/dp/B003MTTJOY/ref=sr_1_3
  
• Absolute insanity down the rabbit hole - https://www.amazon.com/Adeept-Ultimate-Starter-Learning-Raspberry/dp/B01FLSF4PQ/ref=sr_1_9
  
  TLDR; Pick a project and work backwards to figure out a shopping list. Otherwise you'll spend way too much or your new Zero will probably live in a desk drawer.
  
  
  

It's pretty great, to be honest. I use it to run Kodi (flawless at 1080p), play Netflix, and stream Xbox One, and that's pretty much it. I was a little worried about reports of it overheating and throttling, but I've not noticed any issue with that. I did get a USB3 ethernet adapter so I could use it wired rather than wireless, though its built-in 802.11ac is much better than what you'd find in a compute stick for example. I have been getting some "network issues" pop-ups while streaming on "High" that I haven't had time to diagnose, but I'm not convinced that's the Kangaroo's problem (I suspect the Xbox just can't keep up with encoding). Edit: This prompted me to do a little searching, and Anker has a Win10 driver for the ethernet port that I never installed. Some Amazon reviews mentioned flaky ethernet and responses from Anker were to update the driver, so I'm going to try that. The other negative on reviews is that the USB hub disconnects on sleep, but that was an easy fix -- I don't let me Kangaroo sleep, and I don't let it put its USB ports to sleep.

The Cherry Trail Atoms (x5/x7) in this and other devices like the Surface 3 are some impressive chips IMHO. The only thing I'd change is to add SATA support, or a few more PCIe lanes for M.2 support, because eMMC is slow. Not a huge issue for my use of the Kangaroo, since nearly everything is network-bound, but it would make my Surface 3 4GB/128GB much snappier.

I have a usb extender i bought on amazon that works perfectly.

My setup goes PC -> ethernet extender box 1 -> ethernet extender box 2 -> link box.

Never had any issues getting it to work. Additionally, I run a TPcast, and a Steam Link. All of this pipes into my living room. It's a really fun setup, actually. The Vive is wireless and plays via the steam link on my TV. Great for parties.

1. ​
   
   I recommend:
   
   

• Dell Premier Display for the color profiles, and the screen overlays while dragging apps that add an extra layer of app window auto-sizing. Do note you might have issues with automatic color profile changes during Netflix and other fast color-changing media playback, which I have yet to solve even after browsing the web and attempting suggested solutions
  
• Dell Connect as it brings something that even Google or Vysor have yet to achieve - seamless smartphone integration. It's tantalizing that Dell has the best phone connectivity app around. The fact I am suggesting in keeping it, to what would otherwise be factory crapware, goes to show how good it performs
  
• DO NOT INSTALL BIOS 1.3.X+ unless you want to lose S3 sleep forever. thank M$ for that one.
  
• Dell Power Manager (or whatever it's called) is essential for achieving the best performance on fans and some components (CPU/GPU/Memory), and the opposite too if you want the chillest, quietest setup, which is unfortunate from Dell to not let the OS take control from. MAX and MIN fan RPM are only achieved through settings on this utility
  
• Every other driver/utility you can stay away from. Dell SupportAssist is nice for checking service tag and other data on the screen, but you can do that a number of other ways. Submitting suppor tickets by phone is preferred IMHO. Dell digital Delivery and Dell update are useless, and so is everything else not mentioned
  
• all other drivers, either let Windows decide or go to each individual device OEM support page and install what you think might have more impact (I suggest Killer for Wifi, LAN for whatever is in your hub, Nvidia for the dGPU, Chipset drivers and iGPU from Intel.
  
  2 .
  
  Do these two (Dell BIST) tests (Dell ePSA). Also run your benchmark of choice (I suggest Unigine Superposition) while running HWInfo and see your Avg. and MAX, temperatures for CPU/GPU, SSD and Dell Chassis components (you need to allow extra sensors on HWInfo), and check throttling flags too. No matter the results, I recommend installing Throttlestop, disabling Turbo Boost for the profile you will be using most, and getting comfortable with its usage, and setting it up to launch at user logon (using Task Scheduler) A repaste might also help, and the same goes for undervolting (either with TS or Intel XTU). Some people are also adding thermal pads to VRM's either to the chassis or to the heatsink (better) for avoiding VRM reaching 100's. This used to be more relevant to 9560/9550, and I am not sure of its benefits on the 9570. If you need help with TS, message me.
  
  I suggest setting these up on BIOS: "Force S3 sleep", F7 key for "no emissions mode", half brightness on battery and do a solid checkup of whatever you feel is better for you on the extensive optionned BIOS that Dell supplies. Once again, do not install 1.3.X+!
  
  ​
  
  3.
  
  I would advise on a USB 3.0 Type A hub with 3- 4 USB 3.0 Type A ports and Gbit LAN like this (I have this, but apparently it went away from all amazon stores since I bought it last month).
  
  Using this kind of dongle has 4 advantages vs dock and USB-C/TB3 dongles:
  
  
• does not take away the single USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 port
  
• doubles Type A ports from the original 2 (since you have to use one, a 3 USB hub effectively adds 2)
  
• has GBit LAN
  
• it's a lot cheaper and more portable than the TB3 swiss army-type dongles available everywhere, and you can always carry an extra TB3 to DP/mDP cable, if HDMI won't suit your display needs
  
  From extensive testing, my Anker hub's LAN port (and likely the new model I suggest) doesn't seem hampered by USB port usage as some report, nor does LAN usage degrades USB devices. I manage ~90mbps on LAN downloading Win 10 from MS servers while simulstaneously doing and external HDD file transfer at around 30mbps (almost the HDD cap for the type of data I was using). My network cap is 100'sh mbps to the WWW. I still suggest using the 3 ports on this for KB/Mouse and maybe a device that isn't constantly using high data, since you're already using this for LAN. Just use the other XPS USB port (or TB3) for higher performance stuff instead. I also had no shielding problems as many users reported for my model.
  
  If you're going for actual >1Gbps (10Gbit) performance on the LAN, I would rather suggest you look up dedicated high-performance TB3 LAN hardware such as this. But at present, that will certainly make you lose the TB3 port as there is no LAN solution with display options that performs as well as dedicated, single port LAN over TB3. But I'm sure if you need that kind of performance you wont care much for having to drive displays through HDMI and USB3 alone. Or you could buy an external PCI-E TB3 enclosure and add a PCI-E lan card for cheaper than the Sonnet I suggest.
  
  ​
  
  4.
  
  About WiFi: I got an Intel 8265 replacement after EXTENSIVE complaints to CS on why my bluetooth devices would degrade WiFi N router speeds to 1/3 or worse (and also made BT devices stutter), and my results, unfortunately, are that the Intel card has exactly the same issues. I blame either the XPS's antenna placement, metal build or bad shielding affecting the way it interacts with other 2.4ghz technoliges, because I haven't noticed this in my other WiFi N-bound laptops and smartphones on the same router/network.

Hey, so my answer will be similar to the others here. But it really depends what you're looking to do with it.

Bare minimum:

• raspberry pi board (duh)
  
• power cable - i used an old USB phone charger from an old cel phone
  
• hdmi cable - needed for output to display
  
• monitor/display - computer monitor, tv, really anything that accepts hdmi input - i used what i had already at home
  
• SD card - at least 8GB. I like the class 10 cards for better speed
  
• mouse/keyboard - i bought this keyboard since it's small and has a touchpad built in: http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Keyboard-Multi-Touch-Touchpad/dp/B005DKZTMG/ref=lp_12879431_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1416191522&sr=1-1
  
• internet connection: ether wired using an ethernet cable or wireless by buying a wifi dongle
  
• case - technically optional but recommended
  
  Also check out this getting started page: http://www.raspberrypi.org/help/quick-start-guide/
  
  When you start adding things, especially if needing more USB ports you can get a powered USB hub which is very useful. I use this: http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Terminus-Technology-backwards-compatibility/dp/B003Z4G3I6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416191766&sr=1-3&keywords=powered+usb+hub+pluggable
  
  Good luck!
  

The issue would be internal to the cable itself, basically the problem cables don't use the right amount of resistance which can allow the device too draw too much power and fry it.

The only way to test this really is with a multimeter to measure the flow of electricity compared to what the Switch is designed to draw. (Which we don't know in portable mode)

For now, it's probably best to just browse the ratings on Amazon to see if anyone has tested the resistance in that cable. Good luck, I hope it's a good one for you!

So, as I'm sure you're aware, a generic "router" you get is actually a router, firewall, switch, and AP built into one device.

pfSense is an open source router/firewall that's built on top of Linux/OpenBSD. It's pretty simple to setup as it has a nice GUI but it also supports a lot of advanced features. It basically can run on anything with a processor, memory, HDD, and a NIC. Now optimally you want something that has at least 2x GB Intel ports.

I have my pfSense currently running on a mini ITX computer with an i5-2500k as I had it laying around, but that consumes a little more power.

Some people use devices like this which are low power and fanless. Some people buy little boxes like this where you add your own RAM/HDD/SSD and it's also low power.

The only thing that sucks is that this stuff costs money. Even when you buy used gear, it's still not as cheap as buying generic stuff. You can go to Best Buy and get some crazy Nighthawk all in one device for $200-300.

With this route you're going to spend $200+ on a pfSense router/firewall, ~$30-100 on a managed switch, and $50-100 on an AP but you have much more control over your environment.

Or you could go with a Ubiquiti router/gateway/firewall for ~$100 and then add on a managed switch and AP.

Or some people buy a virtualization server and run their pfSense firewall on a VM. Decently equipped servers can be had for $200-500 when all said and done.

There's really a lot of options.

I work in an area of netsec and have my switch mirroring/SPANing all the traffic to Snort which sends all the alerts to a Splunk box. You can also run Snort directly on a pfSense box.

I would recommend the Pluggable USB hub, not only does it work, but the company seems to do a good job at making sure their customers are happy.

You may be able to find one for cheaper, but I think choosing a higher quality hub is important.

One piece of advice from experience...splurge on a decent microphone if you want voice control. Steve Hickson's voice recognition software is great (I used it for this), but I tried to get away with using a cheap microphone from Amazon, which mostly resulted in me standing there screaming at my Pi. I'm not an audio expert but I think certain types of microphones may be better-suited for this task than others - so hopefully you can get some good pointers/recommendations there.

That Raspberry Pi kit should have most of what you need, except for speakers and a microphone as you noted. If you're going to hook up a lot of USB things besides the mic, you may need a powered USB hub. If you don't plan on hooking up any circuit-y things like buttons and LEDs, you may not need the breadboard and jumper wires that come with that Amazon kit.

As for general "getting started" advice...don't try to do it all at once. Pick one tutorial at a time and gradually piece things together. For example - Steve Hickson's installation instructions are great, and he has a bunch of YouTube videos showing demo use of the software. Familiarize yourself with that first. Next, there are tutorials out there that will show you how to connect to a weather website to download current weather data. Try one of those, but don't simultaneously try to do it with voice control - just get the weather thing working first. Maybe you need a separate, simple "alarm clock" program, etc. Work on the pieces and then at the end you can try synthesizing them all together into a "Jarvis" type program.

Well, I'm about to get a new computer. However, to get all my data back, I will be transferring about 3 TB of data between 4 computers, two external hard drives, and a couple of flash drives. What would make my life REALLY REALLY easy would be this!
Anyway thanks for the contest and I wish everyone luck! :D

It's not so "cool" but rather quite practical... I guess the lights are kinda cool =) I'm gonna be needing these pretty soon

Thanks for the contest.

While I can't claim these will work with the Mi Box, two adapters I can vouch for that work beautifully on the Nexus Player:

https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Network/dp/B00IJU0K2Q
http://www.joybuy.com/329974.html

First, yes they are USB 3.0 adapters and the ports on the NP/Mi Box are usb 2.0, so you might say overkill, but they max out the usb 2.0 port as much as possible and the price is not too bad.

My favourite of the 2 is obviously the one with the extra USB ports.
It's fantastic for adding peripherals such as a hard drive, a mouse, keyboard, xbox controller, etc., while still maintaining an ethernet connection.

Second one I was actually surprised worked. People were saying that the nexus player didn't support adapters that used the RTL18153 chipset.
However it was simple plug and play.

I would not be surprised if both of these worked on the Mi Box as well.

I don't know about him, but to extend my Vive by 30 feet to my front room I purchased this active HDMI cable and this Ethernet 4-Port USB Extender. I think the USB extender is more useful than an active USB cable as you have 4 different ports to add things like keyboards, mice, or racing wheels, and you also have the option to extend it further in the future just by buying another Ethernet cable.

I bought one of these and have been fairly impressed with it. The first one I got would just power itself down every 15 min or so, so I exchanged it. The second one has been good (one stuck pixel but I don't mind).

The all-metal case is good without much flex. The IO is pretty solid, with two USB-C ports, one USB A 2.0 port, MicroSD, and of course its own small barrel port for the power brick, but you can also optionally charge it over USB-C including with one of those breakout USB-C hubs with Power Delivery and that simultaneously gives you HDMI out, Ethernet, and such (I do this currently using this USB-C PD charger and this hub. There are cheaper USB-C hubs but I wanted one with HDMI and Ethernet output as well as Power Delivery input so I could plug everything in with the one cable).

The keyboard is decent and the layout is right to me, although it's not backlit. The touchpad is basically garbage but I don't mind since I use an external trackball. The screen is IPS and glossy glass with sharp text, but coming from a MacBook or my PowerSpec 1510 laptop, it's rather dim with low contrast. The speed of the machine is fantastic for the price, and the SSD can be easily changed out but I don't know about the RAM. There's no compartment to open just for that and I don't know how to get to it otherwise. (I may never actually need to, but I did look into it when I got it.)

The touchscreen works, but I disabled it because I wanted it to still work with the lid closed and plugged in over HDMI, and when I would close the lid it started clicking spots all over the screen. After disabling the touch screen input driver in Device Manager, no more issues with that. I don't really know what the battery life is like because I mostly will plan on keeping this plugged in. No bloatware at all. You get prompted to buy/install ESET antivirus when you boot, and if you choose no, it will uninstall even that, leaving you with a 100% clean OS with just drivers and a Winbook wallpaper.

You can probably run some form of Linux on this fine, although I've got no idea whether things like the touchscreen, sleep or the battery meter work. The wireless chipset is Intel and the sound is Realtek so I imagine those are fine but don't know for sure.

I am currently using an old PC so have been looking at my options. Thought I would share.

A Dell R210 II is reputed to be great for PFSense and go for $200 on ebay, cheaper than your build.

Or look at an Intel NUC. They're tiny and fanless, a great combo for an edge device. Around $250 new.

Or go with the PC. Quieter than rackmount, and you can control the quality by buying new, replaceable parts.

Or something like these:

Appliance

Mini PC

Not sure about your network issues, but I will say this.
I use a USB Gigabit Ethernet Hub Converter and stream live HD Channels, Kodi, Netflix and HBOGo in 1080P with no stutter. I also attach my external hdd to view my local movies as well. In addition, I also rooted and installed a custom rom, specifically Pure Nexus 6.0.1 which allows me to sideload apps, have a custom dashboard, a secondary launcher and cool remote apps like Droidmote Server so I can use my phone as a remote and a gamepad. Also, the Pure Nexus Rom supports audio control which the stock rom does not. I have 4 NP's and all are running exceptionally well. Sorry to hear you're having problems but I'd say give it a chance and do some tinkering. This is a great little unit.

Well, I'm kind of a hard drive junkie. I have 6 internals, and no more will fit in my case, so I started tacking on externals whenever I could afford it. I do a lot of digital video work, and also have far too many games and HD movies, anime, backup, you name it, and though I'd love to trade my smaller drives for one big one, hard drive prices are somewhat prohibitive to me at the moment.

Those tubes look pretty boss, and could be just what I need. I've been considering hubs as well, and found this one that looks awesome. I should probably turn my case so the cables aren't so visible, but I like to look through the window, and my desk (a fold up table, haha) has supports that block me from pushing the case to the side. Also, I'm using a Wacom Intuos3 6x11 tablet as a mousepad. Thanks for the tips!

The fans appear to be the same size, I really didn't look closely. The fan you found definitely looks easier to mount onto the back of a cabinet the only issue i see is the way you power the fan is usb. If you have a free usb port on each system/available in each cabinet then that could work. If you want to rig up something using one of the usb hubs I linked below with a few usb extension cords that can work. Another option is to buy a surge protector or outlet plug in that comes with a usb port to plug in your fan.

Edit: forgot the link..... http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=s9_simh_gw_p147_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1JH8R13VJQ9BM6NJZ0TQ&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846

> If you expand too much you will end up being disappointed in the reliance on USB of any of the single board computers.

I built my server around a Raspberry PI and currently have four 4+ TB drives hooked up via a powered USB hub. I've had as many as six drives hooked up, but I consolidated my drive-mapping and storage sizes a bit ago.

(Note: If you buy through the Amazon Smile link I posted for the USB hub, proceeds go to benefit the Electronic Frontier Foundation, a very worthy cause!)

Older Thunderbolt 1 and 2 devices, such as those designed for Apple Mac products, would need an adapter to work with Thunderbolt 3, since Thunderbolt 1 and 2 used Mini DisplayPort (mDP) ports while Thunderbolt 3 switched to USB Type-C.

From slowest to fastest, you have:

• 480 Mbits/s: USB 2.0
  
• 5 Gbits/s: USB 3.0 (aka "USB 3.1 Gen 1", confusingly)
  
• 10 Gbits/s: USB 3.1 Gen 2 (aka true USB 3.1)
  
• 40 Gbits/s: Thunderbolt 3
  
  That's for speed. For the shape of the plug, you can either have USB Type-A (traditional USB shape) or Type-C (the new shape). There's not necessarily any connection between the shape of the plug and speed, though on the XPS 15 9550 the only Type-C port is a Thunderbolt 3 / USB 3.1 Gen 2 port, while the other Type-A ports are USB 3.0. The new MacBook and Chromebook Pixel have USB 3.1 Gen 1 (equivalent to USB 3.0 speed) Type-C ports, while many smartphones coming out with Type-C ports are still working at USB 2.0 speeds.
  
  USB 3.0 or above would be preferable, so that gigabit Ethernet is supported. You can get one that uses the Type-C port if you want, but it will still work at the same speed (USB 3.0) as the normal Type-A version. Adapters that take advantage of USB 3.1, much less Thunderbolt 3, are still rather rare. In any case, using Thunderbolt 3 just for Ethernet would be overkill: better to save the Thunderbolt 3 port for a full-scale dock or an external graphics card.
  
  So, enough background. Some options:
  
  
• AmazonBasics USB 3.0 to 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Adapter ($16.95)
  
• Anker Unibody Aluminum 3-Port USB 3.0 and Gigabit Ethernet Hub ($26.99)
  
• Anker USB-C to 3-Port USB 3.0 Hub with Ethernet Adapter for USB Type-C Devices ($27.99)
  
  The two Anker devices also include a three port USB 3.0 hub, for connecting other stuff.

Gotcha, thanks so much for that detailed info, it's very helpful.

Just as a side note, I can confirm that this non-powered splitter has been working for me on my PSC for months now, with both (original, wired) controllers plugged into it. It's on the end of a 15 foot USB extension cable too since my couch is far back from my TV. I haven't done the power mod, either. My USB stick is in port 1 of the PSC and the splitter is on port 2. It's all been working great.

If I go decide to go with wireless controllers though I will consider your approach. Thanks again!

So what's the advantage over something like this?

I can see Dell's solution supports one extra monitor (you can connect 2 monitors to the Blade as is), but I don't really know many people who need three screens.. It also has 2 more USB 2.0 ports, but, again, I don't know many people who need more than 6 ports (which you do get together with Anker's hub). Other than that, Anker's hub should do everything that TB3 dock does. Because it's a USB3.0 hub you can also still use the TB3 port for whatever.

Oh and of course it's like 12 times cheaper and much smaller in size (so you can take it anywhere). Kind of a no-brainer to me.

Sketchable is mentioned a lot, and you may also trial Mischief and Leonardo to compare before you commit to buying one of them.

OneNote UWP and OneNote 2016 are both great. I recently installed Nebo to try - haven't gotten far, but seems interesting. Plumbago is another note taking / sketching option I've liked.

I travel with mine and don't need the Surface Dock, but do want extra USB ports and ethernet. The Anker USB/Ethernet extension is an option that gets recommended often. You may also want to grab a mini display port to HDMI cable, too. When I travel, I also take a work laptop and need an external mouse for it. I bought a Logitech MX Master and use the USB dongle on the laptop and connect to the SP4 with Bluetooth (or vice-versa if the SP4 battery gets low). It is a big mouse, though - if size matters, the Microsoft Arc Mouse Surface Edition is an obvious choice.

As for other applications, it depends on what you do. I have Wikipedia, Wolfram Alpha, Netflix, Spotify, Readit, GOG and Steam installed. I'm a developer, and have Atom, Git for Windows, and Bash on Ubuntu for Windows installed, too. And since I am also an amateur photographer, I have Lightroom and Photoshop CC.

I have one of these and it is brilliant:

https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-micro-appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496019883&sr=8-2&keywords=pfsense

I use the OPT interfaces trunked to a managed switch and a wireless AP (ASUS router with tomato shibby). It's quiet, fanless and it runs snort, pfBlockerNG, OpenVPN 24/7 just fine! I have at least 5 clients running all the time and a Plex server that friends use. It's a beautiful little box.

I'm guessing 3.5 hours for a really spiffy job. Think of how relaxed and happy you are going to be once the house is cleaned up. Plus you won't be worried about a friend popping in unannounced and it not looking fantastic.

[Thank you for the contest] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007S642BW/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1JZ9YT455ZCAF&coliid=I3EFVE3RT0B1TU)

Get off Reddit and Clean your house Aly!

People think pizza cutters aren't that important. However, I would always show off mine if I had this because it makes me happy :) Good luck at your training!

Take a look at this pre built box I found on Amazon. I have one and it works great!

Could also go with a cheaper version like this one.

Or finally for a super small one, This 2 port version was just released. I just ordered one to test.

You should be fine with just a simple USB-C dongle like one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/UtechSmart-Ethernet-Delivery-Compatible-Chromebook/dp/B07H2ZS1B5/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=usb+c+dongle&qid=1568757531&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQlY5UkZUVElGWlVXJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzEzNTM3VVJMSlNXWTdRVlRFJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwMDk2NDAzUks1U0E2TEpLUTgmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

The advantage of Thunderbolt vs USB-C is that thunderbolt has even more bandwidth. As long as you're only driving one 1080p screen it should not be an issue, and I think USB-C is even enough for a single 4k screen. Thunderbolt is really only needed when doing multiple monitors or external GPU's.

The advantage of the more expensive docking stations is that generally speaking, they also charge your laptop directly. When working with a USB-C dongle like that you will still need to plug your laptop into your regular wall charger. However it is of course quite a big chunk of extra money for a fairly small benefit. If you want the luxury of only plugging in a single cable the expensive docking stations are still your only option however.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJEJG1A

Looks the same as some other units, but it has pfsense specific labeling (OPT1, OPT2, etc). Loads of 5 star reviews and i've been super happy with the performance.

I was looking to upgrade my Alix 2D3 to something like this. I did NOT purchase it and I have no affiliation with the seller, you can search on ebay and other places for similar hardware. I'm keeping an eye out for something like that but maybe in the $150 range. Right now I moved to a consumer router that I got for a great deal. It's running a custom firmware, offers dual wan, and it's working out well enough for what I need at home but does have some quirky issues. I do miss pfSense, if I find a good deal on low watt system I'll probably jump back.

Occasionally you can find decent info on the pfSense forums as well.

For adblocking, you can look into the pi-hole project - basically, with no more than a raspberry pi you can do a vast majority of adblocking. I have some firewall level rules for adblocking, but the vast majority of it is done at the DNS level, as pi-hole does.

A simpler way to use that laptop (or NUC), look into this minipcie gigabit NIC. As long as your laptop already has a (gigabit) NIC, that would you get the requite number of ports to play with pfSense. Though, the bios whitelisting thing still applies - you'd want to check into that first. The NUC shouldn't have that issue.

Truthfully, at the most basic level, there's not a huge difference in a pfSense box vs a conventional wireless router, in regards to basic firewall functionality. By default, both are going to deny all incoming connections that don't have an explicit exception (port forwarding), and outgoing traffic is not touched. Of course, there's rather more (okay, a lot more) configuration available compared to a normal router, even one with dd wrt or openwrt.

For basic routing/firewall duties, there exist a number of basic atom-powered boxes (not far removed from your NUC!) that are relatively inexpensive, that are more than capable of doing the job. I've heard this one is popular, though I'm sure there are more options. You'd be better off checking out /r/pfsense for more recommendations.

Where more CPU horsepower (and pfSense) comes in handy is if you want to do something like run counter-intrusion software such as snort, which monitors traffic for suspicious patterns (known exploits, bad servers, or malware traffic, for instance) and can then block offenders. Another case would be if you want to perform virus scanning/malware on web browsing traffic via squid and clamav. Or, if you would like to direct traffic over a VPN at the network level. All of these require a bit more gumption than your basic off the shelf router has going for it. Of course, all of these require a bit of tweaking to get dialed in, but that's half the fun.

Hence the USB-C hub recommendation. You can do it whichever way you'd like but I think it'd be a better setup with a hub.

This works great and also enables DeX https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FWT7MEA/

Very easy.

You can find a pre made build online and just copy it to a flash drive and it’s good to go. As long as the drive is plugged in, the hack works. Power off the system and unplug the drive and it’s back to stock.

———

Here’s what I can confirm works flawlessly with my PlayStation Classic

Samsung MUF-128AB/AM FIT Plus 128GB - 300MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7PDLXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vnIhDbF1WEZNK

Plugable USB 2.0 2-Port High Speed Ultra Compact Hub/Splitter (480 Mbit/s, USB 2.0 Windows, Linux, OS X, Chrome OS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7nIhDbXBKWQ2S

I’m pretty sure I can’t link directly to the site with the pre made build, but arcadepunks dot com and look around. Copy that build onto a drive and you’re good to go.

Oops linux... linux on everything.

For pfsense, I eventually plan on using something like this when I feel like blowing more money.. I've considered running it in a VM but I'd prefer to have a dedicated box for the router. My esxi box has dual gigabit nics, and a free PCIe slot if I wanted to add more, so I can technically do it

I actually use my nVidia Shield more for school work than I do anything else. I use the stylus and Evernote to take notes in my classes. Evernote is wonderful because I have the option to use the handwriting recognition and get nice typed notes without having to type, or I can hit a button on the app and start drawing diagrams or other notes without being converted to text.

I purchased e-books for my textbooks this year so I didn't have to haul books around with me when I go home on the weekends for work purposes or to class. Since I have a desktop, taking it home on the weekends is obnoxious to say the least, so now I'm able to stream my entire desktop to my tablet and work on any computer code I need. The great thing is that a remote stream desktop is very forgiving when it comes to latency. I have a USB 3.0 hub that I use to connect a mouse and keyboard to my tablet with.

When I'm not doing school work I will use the Shield as a second screen with my monitor. I can be watching movies or other videos online while I use the tablet to surf the internet or check facebook.

These worked well for me, but if you need to go over 25 feet you're going to need an active HDMI cable instead:

• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 25 Feet (Latest Standard)
  
  
• IOGEAR USB 2.0 4-Port 164' USB Extender Over Cat5/Cat5e/Cat6 Ethernet Cable (GUCE64)
  
  The 4 port USB extender worked out great because I can have the Vive, my Xbox controller, and my USB headphones all hooked into it with a plug to spare.
  
  
  
  

You can do it with an MST hub like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HK8V5KE

Just use a miniDP to DP cable from the docking station to the hub. I've had the best success with Cable Matters cables: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APLJ58M

The important thing to look at is which USB-C Power Delivery profiles both you device an charger support. Your device will usually fast charge at the highest profile booth devices support, then drop to 5v once the battery is mostly charged. Chargers usually have the supported profiles written in tiny text on them. Devices you usually have to Google around to figure out what they support.

I really like the this Anker charger that will charge my Pixel, Switch, and MacBook pro (though only at 2A@15v):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01D8C6ULO

I would avoid mixing devices and charger that do and don't support Power Delivery, like Nexus 5x/6p era stuff and 2016+ stuff.

If you really want to go down to rabbit hole, you can get one of these devices to see what's going on:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MT8MC3N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497123782&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+c+power+meter&dpPl=1&dpID=31YLC7vMnbL&ref=plSrch

I think /u/chrislikessoda should be gifted this thing

It'll brighten his day a little and he's been having tough times :)

Thanks for the contest :)

So I just bought the new XPS 15 2 in 1 with only USB C ports, and I also use a Scarlett 2i2. I had the same question initially. I ended up buying this hub because it had good reviews as far as read and write speeds and it seemed to have everything I could ever need. There was no noticeable latency when recording audio. Unfortunately, however, there ended up being a ton of latency with my MIDI keyboard, I'm talking at least 2 whole seconds. My brother-in-law had one of these laying around and I plugged my MIDI keyboard into that and there was zero latency. I have no idea why the single adapter worked better than the hub, I've seen in some forums that it has something to do with the absence of DC-in on the adapter vs the hub. It might be worth it to look into hubs that can't charge the laptop.

Hope this helps, and good luck on the hunt!

Here's the page I used:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Vive/wiki/cables

and this is what I bought:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I48Q892/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VP3372/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I ran these from my bedroom upstairs, through the vent and down into the livingroom closet (there was already a line drilled for the network cord). Fed the HDMI and the Ethernet line down to my entertainment center and it works like a charm, not even any lag. Genuinely surprised. Well... minus the camera situation. Not sure if that's because of my setup or if it's a setting issue.

$900. Friend price, he got it before they sky rocketed.

I love it. The screen is gorgeous, the trackpad might be the single best one ever made even compared to a Mac Book Pro. I'm not a huge fan of the keyboard but whatever. I was able to use a one of these and hook up two more monitors (at 3440x1440), keyboard and mouse, ethernet, and power. It all "worked", XFCE being what it is with multi monitor support plus the problems I mentioned above about multi monitors at different scaling. But it was able to drive everything well. I'd like to get to the point where I could use it prime time for work but that's going to mean moving a lot of things remote and while doable, is gonna take a lot of time.

Ya, the FN layer on that is a bit wonky. I always have to look at a cheat sheet every time I want to take a screenshot.

Excellent. One more thing, comparing a netgate box to something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pUyCybV02ABSP
Is it worth purchasing dedicated hardware with the ASIC, or is it hard to tell the difference? Saw this and it's got similar specs to the 2440.

[I know it's not star wars, but here's a pretty sweet USB expander] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051PGX2I/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=thisistuesday-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0051PGX2I)

I have gigabit fiber and got this box: https://amzn.com/B01AJEJG1A

LOVE it. Handles gigabit beautifully.

Thanks! Are these usb to Ethernet really reliable? What do you think about this one? I need extra USB ports

Anker 3-Port USB 3.0 HUB with 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Converter (3 USB 3.0 Ports, A RJ45 Gigabit Ethernet Port, Support Windows XP, Vista, Win7/8 (32/64 bit), Mac OS 10.6 and above, Linux) Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_frUJybE2CJRR1

Like this Anker? Looks like a great idea. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W

I use the microsoft Sculpt Comfort Mouse, bluetooth. No issues with it.

Funny, I just got all the same things from the same company but the screen protector. I DJ often so protecting the keyboard from liquid is a must. I also like the palm protector in case someone with sharp accessories on their wrist scratch the surface of my brandnew Mac by mistake. I also like protecting the touchpad and the bar itself for the same reasons. Screen protection is really not needed unless someone sits on the mac by mistake or it falls screen first on the floor.

To add, i got this usb-c hub and it's been EXCELLENT so far: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2ZS1B5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First off, I'm no where near an expert on soldering, but competent. I wanted to get the usb hub off of the Playstation, (it was stuck to the top with double sided tape) but I didnt feel confident enough to go poking around on the main system board. I knew the usb cable in the controller was replaceable so I decided to go there. If I goof it up, I can always buy another cable no harm done. This idea was one I originally saw years ago with people putting thumb drives inside their mice. Same concept.

I used this hub to start out with: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HKIDF2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1It has just enough ports and is compact enough to lay flat in the hand grip with some slight modifications.

First off, you have to remove the usb port. I used a pair of flush cutters to snip the port off. If you want to de-solder it, that would work just the same. Keep the leads on the top usb port as long as possible, I reattached just the 'tongue' from inside the usb port to allow for storage upgrades if I ever need to. Once the usb ports were off the hub, I cut the micro usb side of the controller cable off with enough length to reach the bottom of the controller grip. I soldered that end of the cable to the usb pads on the hub paying attention to the orientation and referencing a female usb 2.0 pinout. I separated the two usb ports with my little snips, reattaching the top port's 'tongue' to its original position. The longer leads allowed me to fold the piece backward and slide the thumb drive over it.

Now for the cable from the hub. I cut the plug off and kept the wires coming from the hub short as I could that would still allow me to work with them. Butt splicing these wires to the original controller cable for aesthetics (I like the little grey controller plug) and insulating the connections from each other left me with the last problem.

The pcb itself was small and compact, but was just shy of fitting in that sweet spot below the face buttons. Underneath where the usb ports were on the hub had no traces or circuitry that I could see. So, I clipped the corner off the board to fit snugly up against the rounded edge of the plastic supporting the controller face buttons. With a little patience, and some cable management, the wires can be routed along the inside edge of the grip, avoiding the screw hole by stacking on top of each other, and one plug to the controller board and one to the exit.

It was a neat little after work project I cooked up for myself. I wanted the hub to disappear, but was not totally confident working on the console board itself. I see this as a good compromise for someone who would rather replace one controller cable if they mess up. I tried to be descriptive as possible. I didn't take any pictures while assembling it, but its nothing too difficult.

With the correct cables no.

You can learn everything about USB lengths here:
http://www.yourcablestore.com/USB-Cable-Length-Limitations-And-How-To-Break-Them_ep_42-1.html#usb3limit

USB 2.0 can go to 82ft with a single active cable and USB 3.0 can go to 49ft with an active cable. But if you are connecting another hub to the end so you can connect multiple devices then you should go one hop less. That would be 65ft for USB 2.0 and 40ft for USB 3.0.

They make cables like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Amplifier-Extension-Cable-Feet-Meter/dp/B00TL25WE2/ref=pd_lpo_147_tr_t_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5V0QR31WP34D9FJX8BYX

https://www.amazon.com/FireNEX-uLINK-Meters-Active-Repeater-Extension/dp/B0113Q0WTI/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478110152&sr=1-1&keywords=40ft+usb+3

The other option that can go even longer is USB over Ethernet.

This is what I use as it also has a built in hub too (and I dont need USB 3.0):
https://www.amazon.com/IOGEAR-4-Port-Extender-Ethernet-GUCE64/dp/B013VP3372/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1478111714&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+over+ethernet

If you want to go longer with USB 3.0 you need a fiber extender:
http://www.icron.com/products/icron-brand/usb-extenders/fiber/usb-3-0-spectra-3022/

For HDMI you can do HDMI 2.0 (4K 60Hz) up to 100ft with an active cable which is what I use (but I use a shorter 50ft one):
http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13763

To go longer you need to go over Ethernet which can do 230ft like this:
http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=101&cp_id=10914&cs_id=1091401&p_id=15777&seq=1&format=2

There is also a $299 one that can do 328ft.

As far as DisplayPort, it's more complicated, you are going to have to go with DP over Ethernet or fiber.

Here is an example that will do 2560x1600 DisplayPort over 100ft with 2 Cat-7 Ethernet wires connected:
http://www.gefen.com/kvm/ext-dp-2cat7.jsp?prod_id=11095

All this is all digital signals so there is no "degradation". Either the signal is going to work or it's going to just not work at all or cut out intermittently. But It's all working fine for me and should as long as you follow the proper limitations and use the right products.

I use this. It is recommended by Linus, and it works really well. However, for some reason USB-C charging will not give full 45W power on my XPS 13, it does still charge though, and I use my original more frequent than 3rd party USB-C charger (it is only for travel since it is smaller than original one). It also gets really warm over time, so keep that in mind.

For cheaper options, you can check linus video regarding best USB-C hubs. I believe Anker have a better hubs if you only need HDMI and Ethernet. There is also Dell DA200, but doesn't have charging pass through.

I use something like this when I'm gaming. Super useful.

Razer core is technicality the best. :)

https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00XU6PM68
Should work well to

Cool! Thanks for the help.

One last question. Would this hub work well with Bitcoin miners?
Sabrent 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub with Individual Power Switches and LEDs (HB-UMLS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ECG.ub12MSXEF

I’ve started to deploy these at work for both MacBooks and Pros and had a lot of success. I tested it on my MacBook for months prior to deploying. Works really well!
Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter 4K HDMI (30Hz), Type-C Pass Through, Gigabit Ethernet, SD/Micro Card Reader, and 3 USB 3.0 Ports For MacBook 12 and New MacBook Pro 2016 (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ex5gAb3B9VW4A

Apple’s USB C adapter is really good too if you need just the basics.

For keyboard and mouse I highly recommend you use a Bluetooth option since port are limited no matter what option you choose for a dock.

I used a Surface Pro 3 when they first came out. I now have a work-issued Surface Book and it works great! The dock is definitely the key. At my desk, I have the dock with 3 28" high res monitors and then use my Surface display as a 4th display. Be advised, you'll need a USB to HDMI or USB to DisplayPort adapter to drive a fourth display.

I also keep this Anker USB Ethernet Hub in my backpack for when I'm out and about. It solves all my USB/Ethernet needs.
https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542194662&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=anker+usb+ethernet+hub&dpPl=1&dpID=41N7AqLCVXL&ref=plSrch

I also have a Surface Pro 4 for personal use.

EDIT: A pic of my desk setup. http://imgur.com/gallery/YDLWuG0

If you haven't already about one, this is the one I use: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BWF5U0M

Super cheap; works perfectly with the PS4.

We've used these with our 2018 touchbar pros (as well as the models without touchbar) and are able to use them with the machine closed like you asked... though this one is HDMI and not DVI:
https://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Aluminum-Multi-Port-Adapter-Pass-Through/dp/B075FW7H5J/ref=pd_cp_147_1?pd_rd_w=x8dQh&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=3R3ZM131TA04Q0TJEH2S&pd_rd_r=34da322e-1311-4e24-8fce-94688cf50a53&pd_rd_wg=LLAZK&pd_rd_i=B075FW7H5J&psc=1&refRID=3R3ZM131TA04Q0TJEH2S

The problem is that most of these adapters (not just this brand) seem to still be trying to catchup to the tech. These adapters (again, not just this brand) all run pretty hot and seem to run into problems as far as connection goes. A lot of the time the solution is to unplug it and put it into a different USB C port on the machine and it can usually resolve the issues. That said, a lot of our users seem to burn through theirs and they become VERY finicky to the point that if they bend a certain way the monitors no longer connect until the adapter is repositioned just right.

With that in mind, I'm still on my original one, so as long as the user won't be moving it or placing the adapter so the cable bends at awkward angles it should be fine (well, more of the standard hit-or-miss).

1000 CAD is going to be plenty.

ebay store mrrackables has tons of storage machines you can snag up for 300-500 usd which can solve most of your needs. (nas + vm support)

From there you can pick up a mini pfsense box for 200-300 and a switch for 100-200.

Max spent would be 1000 usd or low end 750 usd

https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-micro-appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01AJEJG1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1494349383&sr=8-2&keywords=pfsense

This is the pfsense box I use for my 300/100 cable and it works fine. I picked up a great netgear switch with POE for 50$ off mercari

For raid, it depends on what you want to spend $$$ wise some options can be cheaper then others.

Edit: conversion

1000 Canadian Dollar equals
727.00 US Dollar

I use https://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-Network/dp/B00IJU0K2Q/ and its great for travel and when im in the office.

Bluetooth Mouse and Keyboard help as well if you feel the the need.

I can vouch for this one. Works great with Windows, Linux, and Mac. Built pretty solid too:

http://www.amazon.com/Inateck-Bus-Powered-Converter-Ultrabooks-Compatible/dp/B00IJU0K2Q

Hi,

Thanks for commenting, really appreciate any help. The battery capacity is 17.85Ah. When I'm measuring using a simple little device the mAh reading ticks up once every couple of seconds. I would say we get about 8 hours life from a full charge.

I was curious about this myself. After looking through the suggested powered USB hubs on the wiki, I ordered this 7-port one here and will message back the results when it gets here. I've been using the 2.5A power supply from CanaKit so I thought that would be enough. But it's definitely worth a try, thanks.

Make me smile, Rasta!

ok make my computer smile =P

The reason I needed to use a usb dongle is because I am buying an air remote mouse(https://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Wireless-Keyboard-Multifunctional-3-Gsensor/dp/B00K768DHY/) and it has its own bluetooth dongle to work.

That is nice, I am also planning to do the same because I have Buffalo Snes USB controller. I am planning to install retroarch in it :)
So will a USB hub like this suffice?(https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/)

And also I have one last question. Is it normal to lag on 60fps videos on Youtube? I thought this box is strong enough to handle 4k 60 fps o.o

I run naked as I just prefer that. I like to keep it thin and I’m very careful with my stuff. For an adapter I use this one: Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter V2-4K HDMI (30Hz), Gigabit Ethernet, USB-C Pass-Through, SD/Micro Card Slots, USB 3.0 for 2016/2017/2018 MacBook Pro, 2015/2016/2017 MacBook and More (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FW7H5J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E-gMBb8VA6191

It’s incredible. Has everything you’ll need IMO and I love the addition of Ethernet.

I’m a bit late, but if you don’t mind 2.0 USB support (I remember reading that the RPI doesn’t benefit from 3.0), this is the hub that works wonders with powering the RPI too. I use this for the RPI and 2 HDDs for my seafile server.

Plugable USB 2.0 7-Port High Speed Hub with 15W Power Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z4G3I6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pIQZBb0AP8F4D

MOKiN USB-C to HDMI/USB 3.0/USB C/F Multiport Adapter Supports 4K- Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IUXA9YK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1G8vzbZXQ76F7

This one works flawlessly.

This one is the best one out there

Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter 4K HDMI (30Hz), Type-C Pass Through, Gigabit Ethernet, SD/Micro Card Reader, and 3 USB 3.0 Ports For MacBook 12 and New MacBook Pro 2016 (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eI8vzb0SQKKQ5

Hello,
About accessories, I try 2 hub USB Type-C for charging and use usb remote in same time.:
Aukey hub : https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Throughput-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498911025&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=AUKEY+Hub+USB+C+4+Port+USB+3.0
It's doesn't work. No charge and no USB port work.
QacQoc : https://www.amazon.fr/puissance-p%C3%A9riph%C3%A9riques-MacBook-ChromeBook-PixeliMac/dp/B01LXNKE25/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1498910974&sr=8-5&keywords=hub+usb+type+c
Best quality : Charge seem work but not USB Port. If I put remote (logitech mouse or air mouse) and connect to pico after. The mouse work but pico doesn't charge :'(
Anybody try another hub type-C ? It's work for you ?
Thx

I use a usb hub to power mine and all its peripherals.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z4G3I6/ is pretty good, been running the pi stable for weeks on it.

I personally use this, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC07T02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fRgKzbGQK0WSY
It's metal so it's durable as hell, USB 3.0 so data speeds are quick as well as giving you more USB ports, and the ethernet was plug and play so I didn't need to install any drivers. I've had it for half a year and I'm pretty happy with it.

It's amazing to me how every new suggestion you have is a suggestion I find just a little annoying.

"Use plex" in a place where Kodi is better. "Use OSMC" when OpenELEC is my preferred choice. "Use a mouse as backup" when a FLIRC or keyboard is an infinitely better way of using Kodi.

You are correct on the self-powered harddrive though. Unless you are using a self-powered usb hub, where the power of the Pi doesn't matter. I've actually used one of these USB hubs in the past to both power the Pi and give it more (powered) external ports.

I'm sorry to hear. I got this one, and once in awhile WiFi will hiccup due to the USB 3.0 ports, but that is just the nature of USB 3.0. It looks like this is an updated version though from what I bought:
https://smile.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook-Pixelbook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1509845942&sr=1-3&keywords=aukey+usb+c+hub

I also lucked out and got it for $25.

Here are the links for the products I used. I tried a few cooling pads and chose the one below because it was quiet, comfortable to use on the couch and at least could hide the cable. The USB-C hub was a random choice and probably on sale but it worked without any issues.

​

ASUS XG-Station-Pro eGPU - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP36KHH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Targus Cooling pad - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NU5O9C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

USB-C Hub - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2ZS1B5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Hope this helps you make your decision!

From a quick search, it's looking like jvc makes the only worthwhile dual usb HU's. What about getting one with a rear input then adding a little usb hub to it? Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-USB-2-0-Port-Hub/dp/B005HKIDF2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342033185&sr=8-1&keywords=usb+hub+2+port

at that price you might as well try your luck with a mst hub like the one from EVGA

> What about this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AJEJG1A/ looking at this video, its a quad core celeron.

Nope, Atom based and no AES-NI = slow VPN. Again, quad, 8, 16+ core does zero for OpenVPN. A fast dual core is much better for this use case.

> EDIT: Here is their new one, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0741F634J/

That would certainly give far better performance in OpenVPN than any Atom based system. Not sure if it would make it to 500 Mbps, but likely close.

You may also want to look at something like the Qotom q355g4 which has a faster i5 CPU.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 1700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor | $149.99 @ Newegg
CPU Cooler | Cooler Master - Hyper 212 LED Turbo (Red) 66.3 CFM CPU Cooler | $44.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard | $54.99 @ Newegg
Memory | Team - Vulcan 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $99.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Asus - Radeon RX 580 8 GB DUAL Video Card | $184.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - CX (2017) 750 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply | $35.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $600.94
| Mail-in rebates | -$30.00
| Total | $570.94
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-22 00:57 EST-0500 |

GPU optional (as long as the old one still works! got a friend's pc to try it on?), you'd be moving to a modern 8 core CPU with an upgrade path. I'd suggest replacing the PSU because an 8 year old power supply could have blown the rest of your rig... :( Best not to tempt fate.

You'd keep your storage, fans, case (with something like this you could get FP IO back too! https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-5-25-Inch-Front-Panel/dp/B00UBFXMXG/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1542866316&sr=8-6&keywords=5.25+front+panel)

I mean, this one only has 2, but it's neat: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JM7T56Q/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

And this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_16?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1502231117&sr=1-16&keywords=anker+usb+hub


They have hubs on Amazon that have a couple USB ports, an HDMI, and ethernet, but they start at around $60.

Few more questions if you don't mind answering: Do I need two of these cables to connect my monitors to the interface?

And should I run my Axiom controller through the interface or just via USB?

And is it safe to connect the interface via a USB hub like this?

Keep it connected to your router much easier to setup and you can share media through different devices.
I store my media on NAS device and managing it through /r/PleX media server. Works extremely well and does all the transcoding.
The NP though is connected through [Ethernet Network Adapter] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ET4KHJ2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and [4-Port USB 2.0 Hub] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). just make sure its 2.0 usb dont know why but 3.0 wont work.

I have one of these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E7W1UFQ/ref=twister_B00EUJHANM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and LOVE it! If you need a SD Card, NIC, or an extra port they have you covered.

I use an Aukey USB-C dock ( presumably this one) to connect a 2560*1440 screen through HDMI. It's been great for productivity, although I have some problems as my laptop's screen is 4K, so there's persistent scaling issues that are only solved by a reboot

That's an inexpensive solution that works well, and you can connect a keyboard and mouse to it like I do. I know Dell sells a dedicated dock but it's a lot more expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook-Pixelbook/dp/B072Q1SKZR

I've used this hub with a lot of success with multiple laptops including a C302 and my current laptop a MacBook 12in. The USB C port on the hub also supports charging up to 28watts, I believe. It would charge my C302 and MacBook 12in while being used at least.

pfsense on a netgate or similar.

This one will handle multiple VPN connections much better because it has AES-NI:
https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-Micro-Appliance-Gigabit-AES-NI/dp/B0742P83HY

If you aren't doing much encryption (VPN Traffic) you can save a little money (this is the box that I use at home):
https://www.amazon.com/Firewall-micro-appliance-Gigabit-Intel/dp/B01AJEJG1A

The cheapest and most generic one on Amazon at the time, here it is http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M Works great!

Phew. I was super scared for a second there.

In that case I'm probably gonna get the 12 port USB 2 hub as it'll take all my devices, leave me with a couple ports to spare, and keep me going until USB 3.0 hubs work properly with Mac OS X allowing me to upgrade later.

Thank you again for all your help.

Yes you take up 1 port but on the bright side it does come with a spilt for charging + reciver

The Plus model just came out recently so there actually is not many bluetooth ones around. They only have the Blue colored (heh) bluetooth i8+ it also it a bit more at 27.99.

Honestly what I would do, if I wasn't using an rpi3 which has 4 usb slots, is get the RF for 21.99 then get a 4 way usb splitter for your other port for 6.49

Here's a dope ass chrome rii i8+ lol

Would you happen to know anything about USB ethernet issues?

I have an Anker 3-port USB/Ethernet adapter that worked great before.. it's USB 3.0, shows as USB 3 under System Information, and I can plug devices into the hub and they work no problem

But as far as getting internet.. the OS says "cable not connected" even though there are link lights on

Any ideas off-hand?

edit: it's a Realtek chipset

double edit: 8153, not supported by Mieze's driver. This is the one right here https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Portable-Ethernet-Network-Notebooks/dp/B014ZOJX7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1550630432&sr=8-3&keywords=anker+usb+3+hub+ethernet no idea why it wouldn't work straight outta the box

triple edit: It works out of the box on my MBP running Mojave. Which btw, I don't think I mentioned... I did the upgrade to Mojave right after High Sierra was working.. it was smooth other than the network woes

final edit? maybe?: Got it. Thanks for being my rubber duck

I enabled "fix lan" in DSDT patching and then deleted the "Location" in network preferences and re-added the adapter. Been a long journey! Now to install the software I couldn't before and finally enjoy dark mode :)

If you want USB mics, then there are such things as USB port 'extensions' (such as this one). If you want XLR mics than you can get a Audio Interface/Mixer (a mixer would probably be best for podcasting) that is powered by USB, so you can plug the mics into the mixer/interface then plug that into your computer.

Thanks for the recommendation, though, I found something a bit cheaper from EVGA (which I've always had good experiences with) http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Compliant-Multi-Stream-Displayport-200-DP-1301-L1/dp/B00HK8V5KE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411526460&sr=8-1&keywords=EVGA+1.2a+Compliant+Multi-Stream+Displayport+200-DP-1301-L1

I have tried a few of these. I like this one because it is compact. I also have this one when I need to free up USB ports.

Glad you like it!

USB hub:
http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Power-Adapter-Control-Switches/dp/B0051PGX2I/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_i

Stand:
http://www.thinkgeek.com/product/d522/

Exit

This would be cool!

Thanks for the contest! :D

Been looking for one of these, and there aren't many on the market. Thanks for sharing

Amazon Link

I appreciate that but I want to plug it into the Switch through the USB-C Power Meter to ensure that the proper voltage and amperage is delivered to the system.

I've had pretty good experience with this one from Aukey:https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Charging-Chromebook-Pixelbook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518399722&sr=1-3&keywords=aukey+usbc+hdmi

Just bear in mind that the USB C standard doesn't support HDMI 2.0, thus 4k will be limited to 30 FPS. For greater resolutions and or frame rates, a Thunderbolt 3 adapter would be necessary although these are neither cheap or easy to find.

This case is an Inwin Fanqua. Replacement parts like USB ports are likely hard to find. I'd recommend getting a 5.25" adapter. I linked one of the first ones I found - there's no real name brand for stuff like that.

Also, you can un-plug those power+HDD LEDs at the motherboard. Much cleaner than tape.

I use this one from Anker. Has pretty much everything I need(USB + ethernet via USB-C). Its $29 USD (not sure where you're located).

I use this one. Work likes a charm.

I use this Hub:
https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M/ref=pd_lpo_147_lp_t_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0XZMS084V62M2T68359E

And the keyboard i use is the AKAI MPKmini:
https://www.amazon.com/Akai-Professional-MPK-Mini-Controller/dp/B00IJ6QAO2/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1480882934&sr=1-1&keywords=akai+mpk+mini

Both work great for me.

I suggest this and this

I bought the hub and it works great. First one I bought didn't.

Here it is on Amazon
The price is the same, but it's free shipping if you have Prime.

I completely blanked on ethernet. thanks for reminding me. What would be the pro's of using the Kanex compared to a device like this

http://www.amazon.com/Satechi-Universal-SuperSpeed-Gigabit-Ethernet/dp/B00E7W1UFQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376259564&sr=1-4&keywords=satechi+ethernet

As far as trust-able names go, I find the pickings are fairly slim. You wind up paying a premium for it.

Anker, my preferred, has one without an SD slot at $60.

Aukey has one without the SD slot. $40.

Aukey has another, but it's missing the HDMI port. $17.

Lenovo's has all the bells/whistles, but comes to $58.

You have ask yourself if you're willing to drop that much on a trustworthy name, or if ones like this from Mokin are worth the $30 risk.

I got this power bank about 3 weeks ago and I really like it. Charges my 2016 MacBook Pro, Switch, and phone just fine. Also seems to follow USB PD protocols pretty well (at least from what I've seen using this). My question has to do with its output. It outputs 14.5v / 3a in handheld and docked mode. I tried using it for a little bit in docked mode and it worked just fine, but should I avoid doing that in the future since it doesn't output the 15v / 2.6a the Switch's original charging brick outputs?

These have worked out well for us and has pretty everything: Satechi Aluminum Multi-Port Adapter 4K HDMI (30Hz), Type-C Pass Through, Gigabit Ethernet, SD/Micro Card Reader, and 3 USB 3.0 Ports For MacBook 12 and New MacBook Pro 2016 (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Khe-ybK9W07B3

A DisplayPort MST Hub is not the same thing as a splitter.

>DisplayPort 1.2 added support for Multi-Stream Transport (MST), enabling multiple monitors to be used via a single DisplayPort connector. This function requires either monitors that are capable of DisplayPort 1.2 daisy-chaining, or use of a DisplayPort MST Hub.

You can get something like this - https://www.amazon.com/UCEC-5-25-Inch-Front-Panel/dp/B00UBFXMXG

They go into 5.25" drive bays, they also have them in 3.5" floppy bay sizes. Though cases without either bays are getting more common nowadays.

You can also get something like this for more functionality - https://www.amazon.com/Excelvan-Multi-Function-Dashboard-Reader-USB3-0/dp/B00J4FJC8I/

or this https://www.amazon.com/Multi-function-eSata-Reader-Temperature-Dashboard/dp/B00GTEM0HW

You can make them fully external if you want I guess by making a custom enclosure out of wood/plastic whatever, and running the cords out the front or back and protecting/insulating them properly.

Still think this is the best USB port out there for the price. Having a light switch is so convenient.

I've bought this one to use it with my Chromebook Pro and so far it has been working perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/AUKEY-Delivery-Throughput-MacBook-Chromebook/dp/B072Q1SKZR/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499536771&sr=8-1&keywords=aukey+usb+c+hub

Power source, wireless mouse, Corsair K65 keyboard and external HDD are all connected to this hub.

I have this one and it works perfectly:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072Q1SKZR/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505188742&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=aukey+hdmi+usb+c&dpPl=1&dpID=416rNcDqW-L&ref=plSrch

There is an extra USB-C Port on it, which enables you to charge the host device and other connected USB Devices.

Yes. For example, I have one like this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075FW7H5J), and am able to read microSD and standard SD cards. They show up on the ipadOS Files app, when plugged in.

I'm using one of these -- works great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003Z4G3I6

16 THis awesome USB port

This thing is great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BWF5U0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You would need to buy a 5V adapter for it though.

I bought this one. Works great. It is confirmed working be several people over at XDA. But you will need to buy an OTG cable with it.

The Gigabit Ethernet is what sold me. My local collection of media files are quite large.

Inateck 3 Ports USB 3.0 Hub and RJ45 10/100/1000 Gigabit Ethernet Hub

I got a usb hub that also has an ethernet port on it. Specifically this one: Amazon Link

and it's worked great so far. I didn't do one with usb-c and passthrough charging just because i couldn't find one with high reviews/reasonable cost

I bought an Anker usb c ethernet hub. It's great and it gives me extra usb ports too. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Ethernet-Including-ChromeBook-Aluminum/dp/B00XU6PM68/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468360544&sr=8-1&keywords=anker+usb+c+ethernet

You can't turn off the wheel so the easiest solution might be using a USB hub with switches. Then you can just press the button to turn off the usb port and the wheel. Like this https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-4-Port-Individual-Switches-HB-UMLS/dp/B00BWF5U0M

Swap the iFixIt out for their new model, it's MUCH nicer.

Other things I'd throw in:

• For those times you need to figure out how far that cable run really is? Bosch Laser Measure
  
• Occasionally one needs to take apart big things (like racks!), for that you need a nice fat(max) screwdriver
  
• 3 port USB 3.0 hub and Gig Ethernet because you never know when you might need to hardware (and Macbook Air's suck for # of USB ports).
  
  While pricey, I'd also swap duct tape for gaffing tape. Terribly useful, rips easier and doesn't leave residue (unless you leave it there for a REALLY long time).