Reddit mentions: The best construction protractors

I have a cheap old Delta 10” miter saw that cuts great 45s with the following setup.

Use a digital angle finder to set the bevel and angle. I don’t trust the built in detents or bevel gauge. It also helps with squaring the fences.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00563TM32/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s8HvCbWY8TNCC

When cutting smaller pieces, a zero clearance fence really helps get a precise cut. You can align the work piece to the kerf line in the fence to get an exact cut. I replicated the one in this video.

https://youtu.be/UjB1UpNqY2k

I also use a middle of the road Diablo 60 tooth blade in the saw for cleaner cuts. I keep a 40 tooth in the table saw and also have an 80 on hand for really fine work. Both saws are 10” so I can move the blades between them if necessary.

Good luck, I spent a lot of time building scrap frames practicing 45s. Decent corner or band clamps are also a must have for assembly!

Idk, I wouldn't say that. I still think you can get a good deal, if you look around.

The chisels I bought off of Harbor Freight actually seem pretty good after I spent an entire afternoon tuning and sharpening them. They were complete shit out of the box though. Forget a flat back, the edge wasn't even square.

These vintage planes were relatively cheap too.

I am also considering buying this saw, as I heard it was quite good after you tune it up.

Also, I sent that piece of junk gauge back, so I didn't really lose anything.


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I was looking at the crowns on amazon.

What do you think about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Silverline-868503-Mortice-Gauge-230mm/dp/B000LFTQ72/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1485138295&sr=8-9&keywords=Marking+gauge

EDIT : Nvm, according to UK reviews, it's crap. Ohh wow, the UK has way better choices than we do in the states...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-868503-Mortice-Gauge-230/dp/B000LFTQ72/ref=sr_1_4?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1485139275&sr=1-4&keywords=Mortice+gauge

I agree with everyone else that since you already sense you have a problem with pelvic rotation that is something you should investigate and try to address. However, what you describe also sounds to me like a classic case of simply having the bars too low for your flexibility and/or a bad saddle angle.

You did not mention what angle do you have that SMP at? After a lifetime of trying different saddles to solve problems not too different from what you describe, I am pretty confident you will not find anything better than that Drakkon, unless it is a different SMP. However, these saddles are very sensitive to the fore-aft angle you are using and a bad angle could cause what you are describing. Before you try a different saddle, it might be worth it to get an angle finder like this and place it on a board or cookie sheet or anything you have that will span the saddle from front to back. Then follow the great advice on Steve Hogg's SMP page to see if you can get a better angle. I hope your seatpost allows you to make fine adjustments to the saddle angle.

I feel you pain, because I'm in the middle of doing this in my home. After some experimentation, I'm replacing. It just wasn't worth the effort, even though all my trim is red oak.

Back to your situation...

With a newly finished floor, you don't want to use any chemical stripper or heat near the new work and risk damaging it. That leaves mechanical stripping.

Sanding will take forever as latex will gum up the pads. Then you're replacing the pads often and may still damage the floor. Using a scraper will get the paint off, but still leaves additional sanding and refinishing to be done.

If you like the style of the base, it looks like 4 1/2" clam, that's pretty common and fairly inexpensive. Personally, I'd replace with something little better, maybe colonial base, or if your home is older, a three-piece base (cap, base, show) stained to match the floor.

To install molding, you need a miter saw, coping saw, nailer or hand nail it, and one of these for the outside corners, and knowledge on how to cope an inside corner..

After being frustrated with a couple cheaper (and some not cheap) combination squares, I ordered the kit from Starret with the combination square, protractor head, and center head. It was damn expensive, but I haven't wanted to throw it across the room this far. My 2 cents there.

You'll also want a protractor, either from above or stand alone. Incra makes a good one: http://www.amazon.com/Incra-PROTRAC06-Precision-Marking-Protractor/dp/B00002255K

This has been by far my favorite tape measure to use. I have a couple in both metric and imperial:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0001GUE3Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1452777500&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Fastcap&dpPl=1&dpID=41MP01FX61L&ref=plSrch

This is a marking gauge, but you can get the one that has the measurements on it and use it for all kinds of stuff. Extremely useful tool:
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=59455&cat=1,42936

This one I just learned about sadly, but permanently lives on my 24" straight ruler now. Useful for when you're transferring measurements or making repeated measurements and a square doesn't work (or isn't long enough):
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=53825&cat=1,43513

And last but not least a marking knife and the biggest box of mechanical fine tip pencils you can get, with extra lead. Just leave them scattered around the shop, and when they all congregate (and they will), spread them back out again.

That bowl is absolutely beautiful!

A note on the Wedgie sled - I was using an Incra device, also, to cut segments, but the Wedgie sled piqued my interest enough to build one. It works great, if you follow the instructions for using one.

However; instead of paying the 99 bucks for the wedgies, or trying to cut your own, get yourself a digital protractor. I found a Wixey on Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/Wixey-WR410-8-Inch-Digital-Protractor/dp/B001PTGBSA?ie=UTF8&keywords=digital%20protractor&qid=1464208393&ref_=sr_1_13&sr=8-13 ) for 50 bucks. It will give you an adjustable wedgie.

So now I use the wedgie sled for all my segments, except when I cut something that requires special cutting.

FFCP is a good printer. Pick up a copy of the firmware manual, which I don't think they currently include. The firmware is FF-branded but it's Sailfish under the hood.

For recreating objects, digital calipers are a must. Also very helpful are some sets of radius gauges (metric and imperial (fractional and decimal)), angle gauges, and a digital protractor. The links are just examples; similar tools are available from other sources.

Something to keep in mind when you're modeling an object is that designers tend to pick comfortable dimensions unless they're constrained by some external requirement. Something will be 80mm wide, not 79.3; or 1/4" thick and not 16.5/64" or 0.255. Clearance fits and screw hole sizes are an exception, of course.

Recommend first thing to check are the screw sizes. Whether it's a #8 or an M4 gets you into the right domain.

I'm going to go against the grain here and say DONT just cut 46 degree corners by default. It looks great when your corners are super right after install, but remember that wood will shrink ever so slightly over its life time! That will leave you with a small gap in your corner after years and years. If you want to do the best job possible, carry a Starett miter gauge and get that corner tight on the front and back of the joint! Some corners will be 47. Some will be 44. No reason to guess with this tool!

Starrett 505A-7 ProSite Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B8N0SU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2aRmzbENT06CZ

It's just a protractor with the hinge at one end.

I just did a quick amazon search and found this cool tool. Set it against the wall and, rather than just telling you the wall angle, it tells you what your miter/bevel angle settings should be on your saw. I don't own it, but the reviews are pretty good.

Definitely go with the pine over the MDF. That stuff is just junk. Mitering baseboard can be a pain because your walls are seldom ever square. You need to learn how to cope the corners in if you want to have the best looking job. That said, you can indeed use the squared stock with butt joints. Just be aware that if the corners are not square you may still get some gaping. I'd invest in a digital angle finder gauge. https://smile.amazon.com/General-Tools-822-Digital-Finder/dp/B00563TM32/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1504089848&sr=8-5&keywords=angle+finder to get an accurate measurement of the inside angle. Then you can get a better miter or butt joint. The problem with the square stock is that it's a dust collector since it's just a flat top. You can stack a molding on top of it later though if you decided it just isn't working to make it look more like a traditional baseboard. Squared trim will be a more modern or contemporary look compared to the colonial style trim to linked to.

Are there any particular measuring tools you recommend, aside from a good set of calipers, a solid ruler, and a gap gauge?

I'm thinking about grabbing this to help with figuring out angles on objects.

You have 2 angles to measure, as you've discovered. One will translate to the angle of the blade in relation to the fence, the other to the angle of the blade in relation to the ground. My verbiage may not be correct, but you'll see that there's two places to change the angle of your miter saw. To find these, use an angle finder. A cheap one is ok, something like this will do just fine. https://www.amazon.com/Protractor-Stainless-Woodworking-Construction-Repairing/dp/B074GNVMCJ?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6

Measure the angle, divide it by two, and adjust your saw to that number.

On the example shown, the top miter would only require one adjustment to compensate for the horizontal change as the vertical angle remains consistent or appears to do so. The lower miter would also only require one angles be accounted for as this time the vertical angle changes but not horizontal. The process is no different than if you were mitering the baseboards on the stairs below.

FYI, Amazon has cheap inclinometers. You can get a pretty good estimate from a $10 construction inclinometer.

Not exactly a "pro tip" but a "if you do it enough you eventually" sort of advice. 1) buy a GOOD sliding chopsaw. I have a Mikita with a sharp 80 tooth blade. 2) buy one of the angle measuring thingies. This one is just what I have but I bought it used along with my saw (pro tip- get everything used:). 3) use two pieces of scrap wood. Cut one with the advice of the dial thingie to whatever it says is the angle- this will be slightly off. PUt this on the wall. Now, use the scrap wood and starting off with what the dial says to do, make cuts with your saw on the scap wood until the two pieces fit perfectly. Now leave the saw where it is and cut the real piece. If it's slightly off, well that's what plaster of paris and/or epoxy are for on painted surfaces:) I hardly ever use a tape measure or other quanitative device because they are virtually worthless on existing construction especially old construction which doesn't use dimensional lumber.

Source: I own a VERY old house where nothing is evenly vague square

https://www.dshs.wa.gov/sites/default/files/FSA/forms/pdf/13-585a.pdf

https://www.verywellhealth.com/what-is-normal-range-of-motion-in-a-joint-3120361

You can also buy a tool to help you measure the angles of range of motion: https://smile.amazon.com/ASATechmed-Goniometer-Set-2-3-Pieces/dp/B07KYX5DRY

You should have someone else do this, because it is generally a trained assessment. But I don't see why you couldn't do this for fun as long as you don't hurt yourself. Just don't place any diagnostic value in something you do at home!

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W395R5E

Good to know... I may pick one of these up as a replacement if I have issues with mine. Thanks!

Tom Silva did a great segment on Ask This Old House about finding weird angles for kitchen crown molding when the cabinets weren't square. I can't find it for the life of me though, so I'll try to describe it in text. Edit found it! Starts about 13 minutes in.

For outside corners, take two pieces of 1x3 or 1x4, about a foot long. Hold one to each wall with some hanging past the corner, so that they overlap. With the pieces tight against the wall, trace the edge on the piece below/above it, and also mark both pieces on the v between them. Take the pieces and draw a line from the v mark to the end of the line against the corner, and that's the angle you need to cut a perfect miter. Simply line up your saw blade using that as your guide, then cut the molding piece. Use the same process on the other board to get the guide for the other side of the miter. Adapting the same process to inside corners is left as an exercise for the reader, assuming you don't want to cope one side.

Or, use a digital angle finder.

What kind are you looking for? Something like a T-bevel? Or a digital level? I've got both, and they work fine for their particular applications.

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505A-7-ProSite-Protractor/dp/B000B8N0SU

I'm the same way. I was installing baseboards and after 3 trips to Lowe's to get more baseboard I finally gave up. My buddy came over and made 4 cuts in about 10 mins that fit together perfectly using the above bevel. It has a built-in cheat sheet to help with the exact settings on a miter saw. He installed custom cabinets for a living and swore by it.

No use posting something and saying it's super useful, without a link. :)

https://www.amazon.com/GemRed-Digital-Finder-Protractor-Stainless/dp/B00W395R5E

That one sucks long term. The body is plastic. The electronics stopped working after 8 months.

Recently got this one: GemRed 82305 2in1 Angle Finder Ruler (200mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W395R5E
Works better, haven't had it long enough to know how long it will last. I wish one side was thicker like the General Tools version above. But I have recently been using it a lot and finding it to be accurate.

If you want to do it yourself, you would need an angle finder.

Check where you're parked with the angle finder first. Make sure you account for that when setting the caster. If your driveway is at +2 degrees angle, then you should add 2 degrees to where you should be at for caster.

Place the angle finder on top of your ball joint if you can, or the flat section of your C knuckle if you have to. I'm not too familiar with ZJs, but I found this real quick.
> I also found the factory specs in the tsb about the offset ball joints. It says ideal target is +6.75 range between +6 to +7.5. Max difference between right and left is .5

You may need to be closer to 6.0 with a 4.5" lift so your pinion angle isn't too bad. If it causes vibrations you may need to go even lower on caster, which of course would cause more wandering. The only remedy for correct caster and pinion angle is to cut of the C's and have them welded back on to point the pinion towards the transfer case with the correct caster.

Starett miter protractor, if he does finish work: Starrett 505P-7 Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y2kXBb0GR5ZSV

Bosch laser measure is a good option and there are several versions under $100.

If you do miter the corners, get one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S

It helps find the real angle of the corner and directly translates it into miter saw setting.

True.
Though on obtuse inside angles I miter them and preassemble (if it's not a really long length) instead of coping. Use a gauge like this

Coping allows for faster installation because it can compensate for about 3 degrees of difference and still be tight as well there's only one cut to get accurate instead of two, whereas miters take two accurate cuts.

The back cut on the cope of an obtuse cope can get very extreme and really hard to do well.

I had the Wixey digital angle meter that didn't last two months. Figured it'd be more versatile than the digital angle gauge.

Ended up buying a Starrett miter saw protractor - has the added bonus of splitting angles for inside and outside miter cuts for me: https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-505P-7-Miter-Saw-Protractor/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1518025692&sr=8-1&keywords=starrett+angle

i bought a cheap version of this: http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-DAF220K-finder-Digital-Extension/dp/B001MUHXQ6 for my baseboards and window trim stuff

but calipers are on my list forsure when i can get an ok pay for cheap

square posts are "traditional" for picket fences but it's easily doable w/ round posts and/or rails. just use google images and you'll see there are infinite variations in design. you can buy pre-drilled fence posts at most big box stores or buy a hole cutter and make your own.

to do mitres for square posts hold your rail up to the post and use an angle finder to find the proper cut.

this is intro to carpentry stuff. is this your first diy project?

You would have to subtract the outer angle from 180.

Carpenters would have something like this "angle finder", which you could buy or borrow.

If you want to do it quick and dirty, just take two sticks (like paint stirrers maybe) and fasten them together at the end like the professional angle finder linked above. Put them in the spot you need to measure, pinch it tight once you have the angle, then lay it down on a piece of cardboard and mark it out with a pen. Cut the cardboard out and make sure it fits. Then use it as a template to cut your wood.

An angle finder tool like this can be handy, and they're dirt cheap. (Metal versions are available too but a bit spendy; the plastic ones work fine for most purposes.)

I didn't realize this was a rhetorical question that you just wanted folks to agree with you on. If you're that worried - do it right and use a protractor.

http://bikedynamics.co.uk/guidelines.htm

https://www.amazon.com/12-PROTRACTOR-GONIOMETER-SET-AMS/dp/B000MZRQXC

Put your old shoes on measure the angles then put the new shoes on and make adjustments.

Heres one for a fraction of the others listed:
https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Plastic-Protractor-Articulating/dp/B00004T7P5/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494186125&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=angle+finder&psc=1

Is for a thin stainless steel General Ultra-Rule Protractor:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-30-Ultra-Rule-Protractor/dp/B0015AQTL8

you can make one

or buy one

Similar thing. Get an angle gauge.

GemRed 82305 Digital Angle Finder 7-Inch Protractor (200mm Stainless Steel Angle Finder Ruler) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W395R5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9UY6BbXHHE7ZT

You're right, there are even "angle finders" that will automatically divide the angle for you.

Starrett 505P-7 Miter Saw Protractor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CJSQ4S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_J3r-zbR08SVMS

Just adding a link, and a bit of explanation for anyone who needs it -- this is a tool used for measuring or transferring arbitrary angles from one thing to another.

Or you could just use a protractor and measure the relative angle between the table and the blade.

You could get a digital protractor. I use mine all the time.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AEIB3Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_4-AJzbA92S4ZR

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00563TLSI/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1524282787&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=digital+protractor&dpPl=1&dpID=31sij4Zp9UL&ref=plSrch

I think there's a really high chance that your miter saw isn't doing the angle you think it is, which is just a function of tools not being perfect. It could also be that your window trim isn't dead on 45 degrees. I would recommend trying something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-822-Digital-Finder/dp/B00563TM32

Set your miter saw to the angle based on an external tool, not the fence (unless you know for a fact your fence is dead nuts accurate). I had a huge problem doing this with some trim work until I started using an external guide instead of assuming the fence was right.

Those are great! Good job!

I liked your cutting jig solution... very intuitive, but unnecessary. For future reference, your saw will cut a 60° angle. It'll cut any angle up to 90°. It goes to 45° in each direction. For a 60° cut, you'd set the miter for the complimentary angle in the opposite direction. So for a left-hand 60° miter, you'd set the saw 15° right (60° - 45° = 15°). EDIT: I was dead wrong on this. Need a jig to do it on a miter saw. Never occurred to me before now that I've only ever used the table saw or miter box for angles over 50°.

Incidentally, this is also how you get perfect outside corners with no gap when cutting baseboard, because walls are never square. Instead of 45ing both pieces and just filling the gap with a wax crayon or caulk, you use a protracror to find the exact angle of your corner and cut your baseboard at complimentary angles. Leah from See Jane Drill does a good job explaining it for us visual learners. Also works for inside corners if you're not the best with a coping saw.